(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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There are 11,164 posts in this topic. You are on page 173 of 224.
#8601 2 years ago

You can bench test the PCB by using a 9V battery and a few wires.

It's not even that hard to recreate them! I remade the backbox lamp board after watching a few videos on how to use "Kicad".

#8602 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Just completed a full led and rubber change out...wow !! what a experience !!! .... I hope it's a while before I have to do that again !
Rookie mistake, changing leds and one of the first wedge sockets I ended up snapping the socket off this board trying to get the lamp in
I attempted to solder it back on but with limited soldering skills I don't think I have done a good enough job as now the centre and bottom lamp are not working (upper one is fine - as snapshot) - assume I've cooked the circuit to the centre and bottom lights ??
Can anyone confirm what this lamp/switch circuit board this is called ?? - I'm a bit lost looking in the manual for a part number. Then begs the question are these replaceable ? or should I be looking to try and repair my dodgy handy work by a professional if I have killed the circuit?
*borrowed pic of underside from the net for location (at work so unable to take pic of own machine) top pic mine showing the two lights out...
Shaming myself as everything else is working perfectly (and surprisingly !!) after 3 weekends on just changing the leds and rubbers ! You guys who do full shop outs are legends !!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]

As someone mentioned earlier, there really aren't any critical electronics on that board to fry. Just a few diodes. You may have burnt up a diode or 2, which is an easy cheap fix, or may have a solder trace that needs repair. Either way, there's nothing expensive or difficult about any damage you may have done. If all else fails, and no one near you can fix it, I'll repair it for ya.

Edit: oh crap, you're in Australia.... that would be some crazy shipping cost for you, but the offer still stands

#8603 2 years ago

Try removing the lamps, then using a 9v battery, try to install a light each lamp separately, then in combinations. Check for continuity between the ground and high voltage to see if there is a short. Silly idea, but check the lamps to make sure that you didn't somehow blow them or put bad lamps in. Also, check the other lamps in the same columns and rows. Make sure nothing else related is acting up, because that would suggest a problem elsewhere.

#8604 2 years ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:

And is that's the worse you've done to a machine while trying to rebuild it, not bad. Wait until you cook a coil for the first time.....

...or break a playfield glass.

#8605 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Just completed a full led and rubber change out...wow !! what a experience !!! .... I hope it's a while before I have to do that again !

Titan Silicone is the best IMO. It's amazing how much nicer my games play! The most important ones to add Titans too are the flippers and slings .

#8606 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Titan Silicone is the best. It's amazing how much nicer my games play! The most important ones to add Titans too are the flippers and slings .

I actually hate those things! Too bouncy if you ask me. Picked up a Indy 500 and the previous owner had these on. Couldn't wait to get em off and go with standard white .

#8607 2 years ago
Quoted from mollyspub:

I actually hate those things! Too bouncy if you ask me. Picked up a Indy 500 and the previous owner had these on. Couldn't wait to get em off and go with standard white .

Try Pinball Life Perfect Play if you want to see bouncy!
And I just swapped out the the standard white with Titans on flippers and slings and it plays nicer IMO. Matter of personal taste I guess.

#8608 2 years ago

I'm a big fan of the perfect plays for flipper rubber; to me at least, they seem very similar to the feel of good old regular rubber after maybe a dozen games, and you can pick a myriad of colors (although I usually go for bright red, haha). The one's from Marco seem "dead" out of the bag to me, similar to heavily played or aged regular rubber.

Everywhere else, regular old black or white rubber. When they seem to start losing bounce, it's a good indicator it's time for a shop out. YMMV.

#8609 2 years ago

Awesome guys ! You've inspired me to take the board off and investigate! Some good solid advice there I'll def take on board Will get some pics up

And agree Titans are wicked ! So much more movement...I did order cheap rubber ones but after seeing Titans on mates Simpsons I knew I just had to have em !

And next is Pin2dmd..just waiting on the clear speaker panel to arrive from US !

Thanks again guys, gotta love this community!

#8610 2 years ago

Not sure why people think Titans are more bouncy. From my experience they're not. Their silicon is less bouncy than rubber. Especially the white rubbers. Titans give me better control. They also hold up better. Most guys I play with agree and they play all the time and are better than I am generally. Hard to keep up with these young bucks!

#8611 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Not sure why people think Titans are more bouncy. From my experience they're not. Their silicon is less bouncy than rubber. Especially the white rubbers. Titans give me better control. They also hold up better. Most guys I play with agree and they play all the time and are better than I am generally. Hard to keep up with these young bucks!

To add to that, Titan makes a low bounce flipper rubber version as well. Also, if anyone wants a really really low bounce flipper rubber, use superbands. They're dead as hell.

#8612 2 years ago

when installing color dmd do you remove the pcb light board? It doesnt seem there is enough clearance without touching the pcb board when mounting per the instructions. Does the ROM with the color DMD light those if removed?

#8613 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

when installing color dmd do you remove the pcb light board? It doesnt seem there is enough clearance without touching the pcb board when mounting per the instructions. Does the ROM with the color DMD light those if removed?

For my installation, I did NOT have to alter the light bar below. My dmd was the LED version. The LCD version may differ.

#8614 2 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

For my installation, I did NOT have to alter the light bar below. My dmd was the LED version. The LCD version may differ.

thanks. yep im installing one of the older lcd versions. also where do you all get the clear speaker panel insert. just noticed the red tint as i was installing. thats not gonna work.

#8615 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

thanks. yep im installing one of the older lcd versions. also where do you all get the clear speaker panel insert. just noticed the red tint as i was installing. thats not gonna work.

Got mine on Ebay. I believe the seller was Classic Arcades. Very happy with the quality and shipping speed.

#8616 2 years ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

Got mine on Ebay. I believe the seller was Classic Arcades. Very happy with the quality and shipping speed.

thanks man. i aborted mission and put it in my shadow instead. ordered the clear speaker panel from classic arcades and LED version for BSD.

#8617 2 years ago
Quoted from ptrav1:

when installing color dmd do you remove the pcb light board? It doesnt seem there is enough clearance without touching the pcb board when mounting per the instructions.

For future reference, the LCD version of the ColorDMD can indeed be mounted without interfering with the "Love Never Dies" PCB. Just use the same mounting holes as I did (see photos). It's tight, but it fits. The only catch is that you will need to remove the bottom two backbox bulbs whenever you want to access the speaker panel ...

BSD #1 (resized).jpgBSD #1 (resized).jpgBSD #2 (resized).jpgBSD #2 (resized).jpgBSD #3 (resized).jpgBSD #3 (resized).jpg

BSD #4 (resized).jpgBSD #4 (resized).jpg
#8618 2 years ago
Quoted from gweempose:

For future reference, the LCD version of the ColorDMD can indeed be mounted without interfering with the "Love Never Dies" PCB. Just use the same mounting holes as I did (see photos). It's tight, but it fits. The only catch is that you will need to remove the bottom two backbox bulbs whenever you want to access the speaker panel ...
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

That's good to know, it's two away in my queue of projects. Thx!

#8619 2 years ago

Here is one of the coin door decals I ordered form Pinball Haus. It was made for a coin door with a wider decal section, but I just cut off the right side and fitted it on.

PINBALL HAUS DRACULA COIN DOOR DECAL

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1026-pinball-haus/03617-dracula-coin-door-decal
01 (resized).JPG01 (resized).JPG02 (resized).JPG02 (resized).JPG03 (resized).JPG03 (resized).JPG

#8620 2 years ago

Another newbie question

is this a 12v led strip or 6v ?

Cheers

loveneverdies_led strip (resized).JPGloveneverdies_led strip (resized).JPG
#8621 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

is this a 12v led strip or 6v ?

I'd guess 6 volts since it's on a playfield circuit board that used to have #555 bulbs.

LTG : )

#8622 2 years ago

If it’s from BSD it could be 12v meant for the Love Never Dies flashers.

#8623 2 years ago

yeah....I would have thought 12v as they are flashers, but agree it's on the playfield circuit....

if you go by this they are same as the rest of the flashers which are 12v ??

snap (resized).JPGsnap (resized).JPG
#8624 2 years ago

All sorted..used 12v...looks pretty good no pics yet, will wait for the pin2dmd install next week !

#8625 2 years ago

Random question...are there any current euro based BSD members who have used PU-parts.com for supplies ?

Are these guys good for service ?

I'm looking at getting some colored screws but these guys wont ship to Oz (can get the nuts here but not the longer screws they have)

So they have suggested using a forward posting service in Germany but that service is coming out waaaaaay over the top by the time it's posted all the way down under

...thinking if there's anyone willing to pass this parcel on I'll gladly pay them for the service (literally about 30 nuts/screws so should be a smallish parcel - no legs or lockdown bars !! ) and lucky if i'll crack the 30euro in value so minimal risk if it all goes pear shaped !

Cheers

anodized (resized).JPGanodized (resized).JPGanodized2 (resized).JPGanodized2 (resized).JPG
#8626 2 years ago

Don’t know if others have seen this if you add SUN as your initials in high score you get this Easter egg

D0FC35D1-73FB-4C15-B15D-F0A366CB2F1C (resized).jpegD0FC35D1-73FB-4C15-B15D-F0A366CB2F1C (resized).jpeg
#8627 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

Random question...are there any current euro based BSD members who have used PU-parts.com for supplies ?
Are these guys good for service ?
I'm looking at getting some colored screws but these guys wont ship to Oz (can get the nuts here but not the longer screws they have)
So they have suggested using a forward posting service in Germany but that service is coming out waaaaaay over the top by the time it's posted all the way down under
...thinking if there's anyone willing to pass this parcel on I'll gladly pay them for the service (literally about 30 nuts/screws so should be a smallish parcel - no legs or lockdown bars !! ) and lucky if i'll crack the 30euro in value so minimal risk if it all goes pear shaped !
Cheers

Check out Pinball Haus:

https://pinballhaus.com/product/anodised-aluminium-allen-head-button-head-screw/
https://pinballhaus.com/product/anodised-nylock-nuts-with-flange/

The nuts don't look as good because the plastic lock inserts are white but at least they are available in Australia. Pinball Haus are also great to deal with as well!

#8628 2 years ago
Quoted from Drac:

Check out Pinball Haus:
https://pinballhaus.com/product/anodised-aluminium-allen-head-button-head-screw/
https://pinballhaus.com/product/anodised-nylock-nuts-with-flange/
The nuts don't look as good because the plastic lock inserts are white but at least they are available in Australia. Pinball Haus are also great to deal with as well!

Cheers, yep already bought what Babak had available - bought nuts and the screws, he only has blue and red but are awesome as well - have used a couple !

..I'm liking the light blue to match the plastic on this euro site plus they have purple

#8629 2 years ago

I use this forum a lot for reference so thought I'd post some pics a of my led install, titan rubbers, pin2dmd and paint pen graphic fill in...in case others are inspired !

Was in two minds on changing some of these items especially the dmd but wow...it now brings the game to whole new dimension !!

Titan rubbers are the way to go as well !

Leds, plenty to experiment there and will no doubt try a few other things..currently upper spotlight is off, it takes away from the dmd so will re route that somewhere

Filling the graphic back in red I tried a couple of different pens and settled on a Pentel version, its not 100% but looks good

Also changed the legs to black as the old ones were pretty rusty..not OG but sets off the cabinet well I think

Will attempt to upload some video as well

Cheers

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#8630 2 years ago

See if this works !

#8631 2 years ago

Not the full attract mode

#8632 2 years ago

Worked on my BSD a ton tonight. Pretty much finished the bottom side shop out. All the inserts are LED now and some of the flashers. I went with mostly Comet Sunlight, and used a few color matched in reds and the blue. In the purple top lanes and multiball inserts I did cool white as I dont have purple and thought cool looked a touch better. I had to replace aI transistor on the 18v section as one lamp row was locked on. Reflowed solder on a bunch of the light board connectors. I still have to solder the leads for one pop bumper light socket and the new launch button switch. The old button had a crack and the original switch doesn't click in to the new button from PBL.

GI is all sunlight frosted bulbs. Now I have to put the top side all back together. I will be using the clear titan rings when I do that.

#8633 2 years ago

Looks great Paulie. I really like the treatment on the shooter lane!

#8634 2 years ago
Quoted from nasco62:

Don’t know if others have seen this if you add SUN as your initials in high score you get this Easter egg
[quoted image]

I'll have to try that!!

#8635 2 years ago

I sent in my power driver and CPU boards to Chris Hibler for diagnostics and bullet proofing and I didn't even know there was alkaline corrosion as I couldn't notice it when I checked. But there was corrosion and he did a lot of work to abate it as well as installing NVRAM and new caps and several new headers. Lucky I sent it in! Super fast turnaround time and top notch service!! Here is the video of the repair!
http://chrishiblerpinball.com/Contact/

#8636 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

I use this forum a lot for reference so thought I'd post some pics a of my led install, titan rubbers, pin2dmd and paint pen graphic fill in...in case others are inspired !
Was in two minds on changing some of these items especially the dmd but wow...it now brings the game to whole new dimension !!
Titan rubbers are the way to go as well !
Leds, plenty to experiment there and will no doubt try a few other things..currently upper spotlight is off, it takes away from the dmd so will re route that somewhere
Filling the graphic back in red I tried a couple of different pens and settled on a Pentel version, its not 100% but looks good
Also changed the legs to black as the old ones were pretty rusty..not OG but sets off the cabinet well I think
Will attempt to upload some video as well
Cheers
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for sharing. The cab does look great with the paint pen touch up. I am curious - does it have a different gloss level? Is it durable? Or did you have to seal it down with some kind of clear spray?

I have thought about doing this, but I guess I am just afraid it will *look* like I painted / touched it up.

#8637 2 years ago

Hey BSD gang! I was changing my flippers and fiddling around a bit under the playfield and something weird is happening now.

When I hit the ball up the left ramp, the sound effect triggers and I see the DMD graphic of the hallway with the candles, but it doesn't zoom in and give me the ramp count. Bats also doesn't trigger after 3 ramps.

It doesn't SEEM to be a ramp switch issue, because Castle Lock graphics and function work perfectly. Also, the DMD graphic works perfectly if I hit the ball softer up the ramp and it goes to the "Secret Passage" area.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated! Many thanks! G

#8638 2 years ago
Quoted from Luckdragon100:

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated

Tests - Switch Edge - bang on playfield. Any switch that needs adjusting register on the DMD ?

Any errors reported if you go into Test ?

LTG : )

#8639 2 years ago
Quoted from Elicash:

Thanks for sharing. The cab does look great with the paint pen touch up. I am curious - does it have a different gloss level? Is it durable? Or did you have to seal it down with some kind of clear spray?
I have thought about doing this, but I guess I am just afraid it will *look* like I painted / touched it up.

Haven't sealed it as it seems to pretty stable..obviously very close up it's noticeable its a touch up job. I have a few other scratches so eventually I may do new decals. If you're after a easy solution paint pens certainly look the part, otherwise as others have done on here they have air sprayed which looks very good

20211023_190406 (resized).jpg20211023_190406 (resized).jpg20211023_190419 (resized).jpg20211023_190419 (resized).jpg20211023_190425 (resized).jpg20211023_190425 (resized).jpg
#8640 2 years ago

The bar set the mood for Halloween so Dracula fits right in!

DSC_2548 (resized).JPGDSC_2548 (resized).JPG
DSC_2547 (resized).JPGDSC_2547 (resized).JPG

#8641 2 years ago

Anyone remove red color for Drac DMD speaker panel? If so, how?
I might actually install a color LED display if I don't have to buy a new speaker panel.

#8642 2 years ago

Hi guys,

Does anyone know what the part # is for this bumper post? It seems unique in that it has a stud at the top, but also screws into an #8-32 Tee-Nut like all of the other bumper posts (I think all of the other bumper posts have a screw hole at the top). I was changing all my rubbers out and noticed that my BSD has a hack job for this. Mine is just a really long machine screw smashing the plastic down onto the bumper with a lock nut under the playfield.

Based off page 2-36 on the manual, I think it's part # 02-4342-1, but Marco's image of that post has the stud being far too long so either it must need cut or I have the wrong part? The manual does say 2 of these are used and I think the other one might be part of the right mist-gate, so I think I'm on the right track... but I just wanted a sanity check before I order it.

Note - The pic was taken from Pinside's BSD Playfield image stock. This looks to be the correct post pictured and not my incorrect version.

Thanks!

bsd_post (resized).pngbsd_post (resized).png
#8643 2 years ago
Quoted from paulie484:

I use this forum a lot for reference so thought I'd post some pics a of my led install, titan rubbers, pin2dmd and paint pen graphic fill in...in case others are inspired !
Was in two minds on changing some of these items especially the dmd but wow...it now brings the game to whole new dimension !!
Titan rubbers are the way to go as well !
Leds, plenty to experiment there and will no doubt try a few other things..currently upper spotlight is off, it takes away from the dmd so will re route that somewhere
Filling the graphic back in red I tried a couple of different pens and settled on a Pentel version, its not 100% but looks good
Also changed the legs to black as the old ones were pretty rusty..not OG but sets off the cabinet well I think
Will attempt to upload some video as well
Cheers
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wher to get the Cross Coffin Mod on the Shooter?

#8644 2 years ago
06B270B8-FF4A-42E1-9B36-B4AED4A01523 (resized).jpeg06B270B8-FF4A-42E1-9B36-B4AED4A01523 (resized).jpeg
#8645 2 years ago
Quoted from Gorgar666:

Wher to get the Cross Coffin Mod on the Shooter?

this store on ebay - good service !

ebay.com link: itm

They suggest linking the letters in DRACULA I think but I linked it into the LND/ball saver globe (at centre bottom) - so it flashes more often and is lit whenever shooting

#8646 2 years ago

Happy to have joined the BSD club. Such a clean game, virtually no PF wear. Bought it locally, (less than 2 min from my house!) from Jim McCune. Some of you may know him. Very excited to have this one!

#8647 2 years ago

Hi all. Does anyone know the part number for the ramp flap on the coffin lift ramp? Manual doesn’t show it
Also the little round plastic pieces that sit in the top piece of the ramp to hold the bracket in?

#8648 2 years ago
Quoted from Mr_Outlane:

Anyone remove red color for Drac DMD speaker panel? If so, how?
I might actually install a color LED display if I don't have to buy a new speaker panel.

Yes. Easy enough.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=39&v=7GnjMFMjZBw&feature=emb_logo

#8649 2 years ago
Quoted from petebest:

Happy to have joined the BSD club. Such a clean game, virtually no PF wear. Bought it locally, (less than 2 min from my house!) from Jim McCune. Some of you may know him. Very excited to have this one!

I hope Jim is doing well!

Next time you see him, tell him I said hi.

#8650 2 years ago

Ya, I saw that video, but I didn't know if BSD panel was actually paint like that panel was? If so, great!

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