(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

6 years ago



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31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 6841 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 137.
#951 5 years ago

A Fellow Pinsider Kneissl drove up from S.Carolina to hang out ,, Here's a video I started 1/2 way thru ..

I thought he Killed my H.Score ,, but his 2.8B didn't get my 3.2B ,, It's Worth watch-n ...

#952 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I reused my old decals and it wasn't that bad.

Maybe we could beg Rick to redo these.

Rick, please, please, please remake the BSD ramp decals......please!

#953 5 years ago
Quoted from RoberAstur:

A picture is worth a thousand words ...

Is that target supposed to be yellow? mine is black.

#954 5 years ago

Hey I'm putting on those sling plastics with the actors faces on them and does anyone know what spacers I need to get the plastics off the regular sling thanks and who sells them

#955 5 years ago
Quoted from little-italy:

Hey I'm putting on those sling plastics with the actors faces on them and does anyone know what spacers I need to get the plastics off the regular sling thanks and who sells them

should be able to use just about anything. How far off do you want them? 3/4"?

http://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=358

#956 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Is that target supposed to be yellow? mine is black.

Mine's black.

Robert

#957 5 years ago

Mine was black as well, but it really doesn't matter that much. It's hard to see it from the player's position.

#958 5 years ago
Quoted from little-italy:

Hey I'm putting on those sling plastics with the actors faces on them and does anyone know what spacers I need to get the plastics off the regular sling thanks and who sells them

I used 4 of these to mount the prototype plastics:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4250-16

You'll need a couple of extra nuts as well.

The right plastic requires the 1" spacer in order to just get under the ramp return (you should loosen the ramp a little at the bottom), but the left plastic almost needed to be a little higher. I was unsure what would work so I purchased 1-1/4" spacers as well. These were perfect for the left side... but it looked uneven. So, I just went with 1" on both sides and forced the left plastic against the ramp wireform a little. It was fine.

If you go smaller, you'll interfere with other plastics. Any taller and it looks weird.

IMG_5918.JPG

#959 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Is that target supposed to be yellow? mine is black.

Mine is black too ...
That image does not belong to my BSD, found on the internet.
I guess that is what you need mate.

#960 5 years ago

I'm looking to upgrade my BSD to an even nicer BSD. If anyone has a top condition BSD in the SF Bay Area/Nor Cal area that you'd let go, please pm me with details & price.

p.s. Willing to pay good money, but not looking to own the record for Highest Price Ever Paid for BSD.

Thanks

#961 5 years ago
Quoted from RoberAstur:

Mine is black too ...
That image does not belong to my BSD, found on the internet.
I guess that is what you need mate.

kudos to your google-fu if you found that online. haha

I'm just stupid about things being factory (or better if modded), not hating on stuff that isn't. IOW, I would've had to buy a yellow one if it was supposed to be that color! Working is ok, but I replaced my fully functional launch button with the correct one for the machine because it was the wrong color.

#962 5 years ago

thanks for the info 3 of my studs are 6/32 1 bigger I guess8/32

#963 5 years ago

Post edited by dendoc : posted further down

#964 5 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

I used 4 of these to mount the prototype plastics:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/02-4250-16
You'll need a couple of extra nuts as well.
The right plastic requires the 1" spacer in order to just get under the ramp return (you should loosen the ramp a little at the bottom), but the left plastic almost needed to be a little higher. I was unsure what would work so I purchased 1-1/4" spacers as well. These were perfect for the left side... but it looked uneven. So, I just went with 1" on both sides and forced the left plastic against the ramp wireform a little. It was fine.
If you go smaller, you'll interfere with other plastics. Any taller and it looks weird.

A friend let me borrow a couple for my game and the holes weren't close on either side. No idea if they are repros or not. I used the bottom sling post, but the upper hole didn't align on either side. Not nearly close enough. I used shorter standoffs there resting on the top of the factory sling plastic (with a small patch of mylar on each side to prevent damage).

Short story: Depending on if your holes line up or not, you may have to get creative.

#965 5 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I'm looking to upgrade my BSD to an even nicer BSD. If anyone has a top condition BSD in the SF Bay Area/Nor Cal area that you'd let go, please pm me with details & price.

Have you played mine at Pizza Depot in Sunnyvale? It's about as nice as they come. Not currently for sale, but I don't mind offers. (and quarters in the coin box d

#966 5 years ago

Post edited by dendoc : conbined post now

#967 5 years ago
Quoted from BLACK_ROSE:

A Fellow Pinsider Kneissl drove up from S.Carolina to hang out ,, Here's a video I started 1/2 way thru ..
I thought he Killed my H.Score ,, but his 2.8B didn't get my 3.2B ,, It's Worth watch-n ...
ยป YouTube video

nice game, thanks for the vid.

is he wearing a star trek unifom?

#968 5 years ago
Quoted from little-italy:

thanks for the info 3 of my studs are 6/32 1 bigger I guess8/32

You don't use the bigger one. See below.

Quoted from phishrace:

A friend let me borrow a couple for my game and the holes weren't close on either side. No idea if they are repros or not. I used the bottom sling post, but the upper hole didn't align on either side. Not nearly close enough. I used shorter standoffs there resting on the top of the factory sling plastic (with a small patch of mylar on each side to prevent damage).
Short story: Depending on if your holes line up or not, you may have to get creative.

They are reproduced and sold here: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/extra-prototype-slingshot-plastics-forbram-strokers-dracula-p-1604.html?language=english

Only the lower sling posts are used. Remove the nut, thread the female end of a 1" hex spacer onto the post and save the nut for the new plastic.

The extra holes on the proto plastics require that you add an additional post location. If you look closely at the original sling plastics, you will see there is an unused hole in both. This was originally meant to hold an extra spacer.

Just take a new 1" hex post and attach it on top of the sling plastic by threading a machine screw through the hole from underneath to hold it in place. Now you will have two posts in the appropriate place for the holes on the proto plastics. The top posts on the original slings are not used at all.

Go to page 6 of this thread. Someone posted very detailed photos on what this looks like.

#969 5 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

If you look closely at the original sling plastics, you will see there is an unused hole in both. This was originally meant to hold a spacer. Just take a new 1" hex post and attach it on top of the sling plastic by threading a machine screw from underneath.

The holes are there. They don't line up. You can hold them over the existing slings and see that they don't line up.

Quoted from Drano:

The top post on the existing slings in not used at all.

I probably didn't word it right, but yes, I'm aware of that. Did you buy yours from the link above? My friend wasn't sure where he got his.

#970 5 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

The holes are there. They don't line up. You can hold them over the existing slings and see that they don't line up.

I probably didn't word it right, but yes, I'm aware of that. Did you buy yours from the link above? My friend wasn't sure where he got his.

I never removed the lower sling to install these, so I did not align them face-to-face to check if they lined up perfectly. In any case, there was enough play with the 1" spacers to make it work and I didn't experience any difficulty with the fit. Check the close-ups on pg6 to see if they look like the ones you had.

And yes, I got them from that link.

#971 5 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

You don't use the bigger one. See below.

They are reproduced and sold here: http://www.pinballcenter.eu/catalog/extra-prototype-slingshot-plastics-forbram-strokers-dracula-p-1604.html?language=english
Only the lower sling posts are used. Remove the nut, thread the female end of a 1" hex spacer onto the post and save the nut for the new plastic.
The extra holes on the proto plastics require that you add an additional post location. If you look closely at the original sling plastics, you will see there is an unused hole in both. This was originally meant to hold an extra spacer.
Just take a new 1" hex post and attach it on top of the sling plastic by threading a machine screw through the hole from underneath to hold it in place. Now you will have two posts in the appropriate place for the holes on the proto plastics. The top posts on the original slings are not used at all.
Go to page 6 of this thread. Someone posted very detailed photos on what this looks like.

Rats sold out already.

#972 5 years ago
Quoted from Drano:

I never removed the lower sling to install these

Neither did I. Just held them in place and looked down through the holes. I could quickly tell they weren't close.

Quoted from Drano:

Check the close-ups on pg6 to see if they look like the ones you had.

That looks correct. Very nice. Mine aren't. The top standoffs on mine just rest on top of the factory sling plastics. No one can tell though, so I can live with it. I'd take pics to show folks, but it's out on location.

Quoted from Drano:

And yes, I got them from that link.

Worth repeating considering how far mine are off.

#973 5 years ago

No mine were in a goodie bag inside and the post that's 8/32 im going to move to put under the right ramp so all studs are 6/32 thanks for all the help

#974 5 years ago

New Mist ball problem. I just got done shopping my machine, and now the right gate doesn't open far enough to allow the ball out most of the time. Usually the ball gets hung up on the gate and just sits there. If I help the gate open further during activation, everything works fine. I didn't disassemble this mech when shopping it, but I did take the solenoid apart to clean it after this started happening. I did have to take the gate off so I could remove the plastics, but I never unhooked it from the arm.

Help?

#975 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

New Mist ball problem. I just got done shopping my machine, and now the right gate doesn't open far enough to allow the ball out most of the time. Usually the ball gets hung up on the gate and just sits there. If I help the gate open further during activation, everything works fine. I didn't disassemble this mech when shopping it, but I did take the solenoid apart to clean it after this started happening. I did have to take the gate off so I could remove the plastics, but I never unhooked it from the arm.
Help?

Make sure the bracket the coil is mounted on is straight up and down. It can easily get bent toward the center of the playfield which will not allow the gate to open far enough. Take off the building above it and it'll be easy to tell.

#976 5 years ago
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

Make sure the bracket the coil is mounted on is straight up and down. It can easily get bent toward the center of the playfield which will not allow the gate to open far enough. Take off the building above it and it'll be easy to tell.

Yup, that did it. Thanks so much! I never would have tried something like that!

#977 5 years ago

Hello BSD Fans,

i plan to make red illuminated flipper buttons on my BSD. So i have to change to illuminated arcade buttons with integrated microswitch. can anyone tell me wich wires i have to use for the mechanical microswitch ?

on the opto boards i have the following wires:

+12V
+12V
GND
GND
Switch 1
Switch 2

thank you

Mike

#978 5 years ago
Quoted from Netsepp:

Hello BSD Fans,
i plan to make red illuminated flipper buttons on my BSD. So i have to change to illuminated arcade buttons with integrated microswitch. can anyone tell me wich wires i have to use for the mechanical microswitch ?
on the opto boards i have the following wires:

Sounds like you're going about it the hard way. Take a look at this:

http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-lighted-flipper-buttons-for-418

#979 5 years ago
Quoted from RoberAstur:

A picture is worth a thousand words ...

drop target BSD.jpg 124 KB

I'll give it a go and let you know if it works. When the ball hits this target, it is supposed to freeze the rotating gargoyle heads. It is this switch that triggers it, right?

Bob

#980 5 years ago

Happy camper here. Just played and saw Hopkins drive the steak into poor old Oldmans heart for the first time. Nice pics on the DMD. Dialled in the coffin ramp, couldn't know Vince off his mist trail for the life of me. What a great game!

#981 5 years ago
Quoted from dendoc:

Happy camper here. Just played and saw Hopkins drive the steak into poor old Oldmans heart for the first time. Nice pics on the DMD. Dialled in the coffin ramp, couldn't know Vince off his mist trail for the life of me. What a great game!

Great work!

In other news... I am now a Carpathian! Thanks John! (Stack15)

IMG_20140131_145833_813.jpg

#982 5 years ago

I'm starting with re-decal my cabinet think this is gonna look awesome when it's finished !!

About my errors that i previously posted i can only think of U19 & U20 being fried.

Screen Shot 2014-02-01 at 00.17.42.png

#983 5 years ago
Quoted from bobrows:

I'll give it a go and let you know if it works. When the ball hits this target, it is supposed to freeze the rotating gargoyle heads. It is this switch that triggers it, right?
Bob

Exactly.
Good luck with the repair.

#984 5 years ago

Anyone have an extra village plastic/model to sell? My is warped so it doesn't sit right and I'm not sure how to straighten it. I've seen them for sale online:

http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8864-3

but the color looks off to me so I'm worried about buying one.

#985 5 years ago
Quoted from gtown:

Anyone have an extra village plastic/model to sell? My is warped so it doesn't sit right and I'm not sure how to straighten it. I've seen them for sale online:
http://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/03-8864-3
but the color looks off to me so I'm worried about buying one.

I've seen em before and it looks ok to me.

#986 5 years ago

Just finished my shop job and lighted flipper installation. Looks awesome!
Unfortunately I also found that I apparently managed to break the "gate-runway wire" in the ball trough. This is the little one way gate that prevents the ball from bouncing back into the outhole. Would anyone be able to post a picture of this so I know how to reinstall a new one?

Thank you!

#987 5 years ago

To Raven: The last 2 weeks i also made new decals for my BSD!

i had to disassemble all parts, a lot of sanding and filling now everything is reassembled and it works fine, perhaps i will post pictures

I only one have one problem with the GI:

The lights under the left house, and the lights of the bumper and the lights on the middle targets don't light.
if i turn on the pin, all this lights flash with the other lamps but if i start a game this lights always are dark ?
So it can't be a promlem of cable/wire ?

I changed all fuses for the GI but the problem is still there.
Anyone have an idea where the problem can be located ?

Mike

#988 5 years ago

Such a great game, but it loves to kick your ass!

Killed Drac twice on the same ball and also hit the concubine jackpot on that ball.... had coffin and castle multiball at the same time (no MIST).

A lot of satisfying shots, callouts, etc.

REPAIR: Have to find a way to secure the backbox in the upright position. The wood on the bottom of the backbox is "crumbling" for lack of a better word, and the hardware has fallen off. The head is staying in place purely on faith right now.

Anyone else have this issue?

Really glad the playfield is excellent, the MIST stuff works properly, and the game works 100%... and the backglass is great too... it's just this cabinet that will have to be replaced.

#989 5 years ago
Quoted from gtown:

Anyone have an extra village plastic/model to sell?

I have one...

Robert

#990 5 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

REPAIR: Have to find a way to secure the backbox in the upright position. The wood on the bottom of the backbox is "crumbling" for lack of a better word, and the hardware has fallen off. The head is staying in place purely on faith right now.

Not sure exactly what you're describing. Can you post a pic? Which piece of hardware has fallen off?

If it's just the latch at the back, I'd say use the through-hole inside the head. It's meant for a bolt with a large wing head and will lock the head an body together... like older style games. Operators used to use these all the time to keep people from tampering with the latches. If you don't have a wing-bolt, use a regular bolt with large washers.

A more 'ghetto' approach would be to get a metal plate from Home Depot in the cabinet hardware section. Just a flat plate with screw holes on both ends that's longer than 4"-5". Place it on the back of the game spanning the head and body and screw it down. Obvioulsy this will cause damage, but it sounds like that ship has sailed.

But, if it's the actual bottom plywood that is crumbling, you have bigger issues and need to get that rebuilt/reinforced somehow.

#991 5 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

REPAIR: Have to find a way to secure the backbox in the upright position. The wood on the bottom of the backbox is "crumbling" for lack of a better word, and the hardware has fallen off. The head is staying in place purely on faith right now.

You need two bolts in the head to attach the head to the lower cabinet. Remove the translite, then lift and remove the speaker panel and you'll see the two holes in the bottom of the head for the bolts. The threads are the same size as leg bolts. The latch that fell off isn't meant to securely attach the head to the rest of the game. You need the bolts.

#992 5 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

You need two bolts in the head to attach the head to the lower cabinet. Remove the translite, then lift and remove the speaker panel and you'll see the two holes in the bottom of the head for the bolts. The threads are the same size as leg bolts. The latch that fell off isn't meant to securely attach the head to the rest of the game. You need the bolts.

Forgot about the bolts, because I'm used to the Stern way of doing things... I have RBION with the allen wrench key for the back. Forgot that my Addams uses the wing bolts.

I don't see the bolts in the game... guess I'll buy a couple of bolts.

#993 5 years ago

anyone notice the flipper buttons were higher up the cab than regular wpc cabinets? weird.

#994 5 years ago

Another odd BSD thing. Knocked the mist ball off the magnet and it landed in the Video hole as it was prepped to start video mode. It started mist MB and had video mode running concurrently, never seen this before.

#995 5 years ago

FS- BSD Werewolf mod. New/unused. $80 shipped within Continental US. 1 available. First PM gets it.

#996 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

Another odd BSD thing. Knocked the mist ball off the magnet and it landed in the Video hole as it was prepped to start video mode. It started mist MB and had video mode running concurrently, never seen this before.

Just don't light video mode while a multiball is going, or you'll lose your multiball This happened to me this week. Seems to me video mode should be disabled while a multiball is going.

Another weirdity.... I've had the mist ball gather a partner and BOTH end up in the mist hole ... twice now. Probably happens a lot.

#997 5 years ago
Quoted from chadderack:

Just don't light video mode while a multiball is going, or you'll lose your multiball This happened to me this week. Seems to me video mode should be disabled while a multiball is going.
Another weirdity.... I've had the mist ball gather a partner and BOTH end up in the mist hole ... twice now. Probably happens a lot.

Video mode should disable during multiball - mine does. Taylor, usually, I don't get the Mist mb when that happens, and just video mode - such a bummer.

Also, yes, partnering the mist ball is another huge bummer. Sometimes you get lucky and the other one falls off when the magnet turns off, other times you gotta shake it pretty hard!

#998 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Video mode should disable during multiball - mine does. Taylor, usually, I don't get the Mist mb when that happens, and just video mode - such a bummer.
Also, yes, partnering the mist ball is another huge bummer. Sometimes you get lucky and the other one falls off when the magnet turns off, other times you gotta shake it pretty hard!

yeah, this should definitely not happen. I smacked the mist ball right into the hole and I just confused the game.

#999 5 years ago
Quoted from TaylorVA:

I smacked the mist ball right into the hole

No smacking!

Robert

#1000 5 years ago
Quoted from MrSanRamon:

No smacking!
Robert

Behave yourself!

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