(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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Topic index (key posts)

31 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 7066 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 142.
#1601 5 years ago

My BSD has been down. Im getting the F114 & F115 error and it goes spastic on boot up. Blows the F114 fuse every time. I ordered the schematics and manual cause the online stuff just wasn't cutting it. But I'm afraid this is going to beyond my skill level. Looking online as past post says i need to check the U20. So one i get my stuff ill be stracking it down and going from there. Kinda a bummer.

#1602 5 years ago

hi cpt, did you go to pinwiki? g..l.joe

#1603 5 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

Hey guys, i've been trying to pin down what i believe is a long opto problem on my machine. Im getting a lot of premature ends to balls during mist or mist+other mball, as in once I drain out of mball the ball just ends with one ball still left on the playfield.
Also, the mist gates pop open when a ball hovers through the middle of the playfield after I have already started mist mball.
The motor will also kick on sometimes while im in multiball,
from everything im reading these symptoms seem to be an issue with the switch 82, the long range opto, i found these 2 threads that would appear to have similar problems
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-weird-things-happening-or-not
http://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bsd-mist-question
but no real great answers, most people seem to buy the replacement 24-opto board, but im wondering if there's anything I should try before buying the new board?
I was getting a "lamp interference" error during the magnet test during opto check 1, I have some blue frosted LEDs in the GI of the lower playfield, i removed 1 bulb that is under the right opto and now the magnet test runs clean but I am still getting balls that end prematurely. Should I try putting all the normal lights back in the GI?

I was having the same problem and it was the switch in the ball trough for the first ball in the trough.

#1604 5 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

hi cpt, did you go to pinwiki? g..l.joe

I did, it seemed some of the fold out schematics where missing or incomplete from the wiki file and not incredibly easy to read the scans on the finer print. I like to have hard copy manuals for all my games anyway, so it needed to be done. Once I get them ill crack down with my volt meter and see if i can figure this out. Sucks thou, I've only had my BSD for little over a month and shes been down for a few weeks (ive had a vacation and then getting my work done for vacation and post vacation that has kept me from focusing on it). Moral of the story is: even with 7 other working pins, i still miss my BSD. But any non working game in my house drives me nuts.

#1605 5 years ago

I'm back in! 45753.jpeg

#1606 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

My BSD has been down. Im getting the F114 & F115 error and it goes spastic on boot up. Blows the F114 fuse every time. I ordered the schematics and manual cause the online stuff just wasn't cutting it. But I'm afraid this is going to beyond my skill level. Looking online as past post says i need to check the U20. So one i get my stuff ill be stracking it down and going from there. Kinda a bummer.

I had this recently on my CFTBL recently. I just had to replace BR2. Easy fix!

http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message

Good luck!

Rob

#1607 5 years ago

check this out clubbers!!

ebay.com link

#1608 5 years ago

He posted that set here too looking for offers. $20 shipping hurts. Still waiting for Bryan Kelly's set...

#1609 5 years ago
Quoted from DavidC:

check this out clubbers!!
ebay.com link

If anyone buys that set and doesn't need everything I will give them $15 shipped for this piece:

bsd.jpg
#1610 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Still waiting for Bryan Kelly's set...

They're in the works.

#1611 5 years ago

Guys: i'd like to use an extra plastic over that bottom pop so it matches the other two.

Where to find?

#1612 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

i'd like to use an extra plastic over that bottom pop so it matches the other two.

Huh? You mean the circular one in the middle of that picture with the graphic on it?

1 - it probably won't fit because the coffin wireform sits right on top of the bottom pop
2 - the right pop is completely hidden so I don't know what you mean by "matches the other two" because they're all three essentially different.

#1613 5 years ago

Yes, that's the one.

Two pops have cool plastics on them. Shouldn't the third?

#1614 5 years ago

oh, so you just mean matching in terms of 'covered by a plastic.' Gotcha. Well, like I said, I don't think you'd be able to put a plastic over the lower pop. My cover actually has a little divot in the top where the wireform sits, so there simply wouldn't be enough room.

Interestingly, this pic on ipdb is missing the plastic covering the right pop.
http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=13263

#1615 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

Yes, that's the one.
Two pops have cool plastics on them. Shouldn't the third?

Two?

Only one on the left popper

#1616 5 years ago

Just looks like the bottom pop should have a plastic too.

#1617 5 years ago

Damn, mine doesn't have any of those plastics on the pop bumpers, just red caps. I always thought they were part of the ones that didn't make it to production because of the actors.

#1618 5 years ago

Nope, sorry. Should look like this: http://ipdb.org/showpic.pl?id=3072&picno=12464

Obviously red is stock.

#1619 5 years ago

Weak! Maybe when Bryan Kelly's set comes out some will sell there old ones. Or maybe I'll have to just buy a set

#1620 5 years ago
Quoted from MrBellMan:

I had this recently on my CFTBL recently. I just had to replace BR2. Easy fix!
http://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php?title=Williams_WPC#Check_fuses_F114_and_F115_message
Good luck!
Rob

Thanks for the link, very helpful. Just ordered a new BR2.

#1621 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

If you're not still getting the lamp interference in test, it should be fine. I have all LED GI in mine. Which gate is opening during play, the left or right? Make sure you're checking the left pocket optos, too. Also, make sure all your trough switches are ok, and you have the "reverse flow" gate in the trough (or whatever you want to call it).

Quoted from mcclad:

I was having the same problem and it was the switch in the ball trough for the first ball in the trough.

Thanks for the feedback guys.

The right gate is the one that opens most of the time and then I often here the motor running again while mist mball is active, the left gate opens sometimes too but its almost always the right gate, the left pocket opto tests fine, reverse flow gate is there, i did find that the Trough Ball 1 switch would stay closed on occasion which, to my excitement, i thought maybe was the problem. But to my disappointment, i then fired up a game and sure enough i started mist on ball 3, drained one of the balls, and then it gave me a game over.

I have found that the long opto switch, ("ball on magnet", #82), is extremely flaky in test, i wave my hand through the middle of the playfield and the switch opens, but after removing my hand the switch stays open, it will close if i give the playfield a slap. I have checked the receiver and transmitter with a tv remote and camera and they are testing fine there. I am going to assume I either have an alignment problem or some kind of power/voltage problem? I checked the opto board and it looks clean with the L1 inductor intact.

Does this sound familiar to anyone? Or does anyone have experience aligning the optos? That pinballrehab.com describes it like this "It can be adjusted by loosening the three screws holding it in place and sliding the white case towards the front of the game." So i think this is what i will try next.

#1622 5 years ago
Quoted from MagicMako:

That pinballrehab.com describes it like this "It can be adjusted by loosening the three screws holding it in place and sliding the white case towards the front of the game." So i think this is what i will try next.

That should do it. Also make sure a plastic, bracket etc. is not loose and is partially blocking the beam.

#1623 5 years ago
Quoted from terryb:

That should do it. Also make sure a plastic, bracket etc. is not loose and is partially blocking the beam.

Good point! At one point my home-made repro left wire gate would sit right in the middle of the beam and cause all kinds of problems!

#1624 5 years ago

Got my soundboard back from Keith at K's Arcade, looks great, sound's back all in spite of the post office trying to rip the box in half.
Of course immediately upon firing it up I have a new issue that was similar to an old issue, I get check switch, 51,53, 54, 56,57. Also the ramp isn't lifting for the ball to load into the right mist gate. I checked all fuses with a multimeter and they all read as good, that was one of the issues last time. There don't appear to be any broken wires either, but maybe I'm just looking in the wrong place.
I still haven't gotten this whole hunting down of errors down pat.

Any suggestions would be appreciated.

I have new black rails and a lockbar ready to go on, but I figure I'll save that project for once I have it up and running again.

#1625 5 years ago

Go through the coil tests and note which ones don't work.

Edit: actually, what switches do those numbers refer to?

#1626 5 years ago

Switch 51 Opto TR Lane
Switch 53 Opto Castle 1
Switch 54 Opto Castle 2
Switch 56 Opto TL Popper
Switch 57 Opto Castle 3

So all opto's are they all on one fuse? If so which one, as it would appear the fuse is blown or there would seem to be a hidden broken wire. It's very strange that they're all out at once.

I was hoping to play some BSD when that board came in. Seems it's down more than it's playable.

#1627 5 years ago

look at manual page 3-22 wiring and schematics.the opto's you listed are on the j-1 connector. does the board have power led lit ?

#1628 5 years ago

Thanks for responding joe. The board itself seems to have power as the red LED is lit. I unplugged and reseated everything at the board, and didn't see any broken wires after tracing them around the board. I'm sure I could have missed something though.

Could this mean the opto pcb board itself has something wrong with it? It would be my luck after sending in one board another one goes.

#1629 5 years ago

Just a quick report of the mist problems (magnet unload error and swith #82 errors) fixed by following advice of others (sorry I forgot who, back on pgs. 5,6,7). I reset the game by changing batteries with the game off. No issues for several games. Also, hooked up a powered polk 10" sub in parallel with the cabinet speakers that is shared with Shadow. Big thanks to all who post advice it is much appreciated.

Next I would like to follow others suggestions in replacing plastics, ramps, and black nickel trim if we can generate enough interest for Z plating or someone to do a run.

I really enjoy this game( along with the Shadow) as well or better than anything I have played and considered clearcoating the PF. I guess I am just hoping the diamond plating will last for years to come but I don't know.

#1630 5 years ago

What triggers the Left ball gate to open. In coil test mode the coil works fine and opens and closes the gate. Long opto works fine. I had a BSD years ago but forget what triggers the left gate to open to let the ball in. Do both the left and right gates open at same time and stay open till either ball goes into left gate pocket or is knocked off the long opto then both gates closed? I can't remember and I am sure someone in here knows off the the top of their head what opens that gate.

#1631 5 years ago

That's actually a really good question. They do not open at the same time and I don't believe there is a switch with the magnet/motor under the playfield that triggers it. Perhaps it is time based alone. From the time the magnet leaves the right pocket, if the ball is still blocking the long opto, it opens after x seconds?

It would obviously then close when the ball blocks the left opto or when it is no longer blocking the long opto.

#1632 5 years ago

Okay so how is that fixed?

#1633 5 years ago

is it related to the C2 cap on the fliptronics board?

#1634 5 years ago

"Note that sometimes C2 is installed on this board and sometimes it is not. The board pictured does not have C2 installed. Since C2 is a 100µF/100V capacitor, it can't be doing too much AC smoothing of the full wave rectified flipper power. Some RGP discussions indicate that C2 may have been designed in originally to reduce EMI (electro-magnetic interference) from the board. Installing C2 will have a negligible affect on flipper power. Some report that installing C2 fixes a "jittery gate" symptom on BSD's "mist" assembly.
More information about bench testing FlipTronics board is available here."

#1635 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

They do not open at the same time and I don't believe there is a switch with the magnet/motor under the playfield that triggers it.

There are microswitches under the playfield on each side. When the magnet assembly gets to either side, it pushes those switches closed. They are shown in the switch matrix as Magnet Left and Magnet Right. I believe those switches open the gates, shut off magnet power and the power to the motor that moves the magnet.

#1636 5 years ago

Thanks phishrace. I will check that, hopefully that is what it is, simple fix!!

#1637 5 years ago

hi nos,put the game into switch test and drop a ball in to the mystery hole#58, wiggle your finger in the left side magnet pocket,did any switches register? g.l.joe

#1638 5 years ago
Quoted from phishrace:

There are microswitches under the playfield on each side. When the magnet assembly gets to either side, it pushes those switches closed. They are shown in the switch matrix as Magnet Left and Magnet Right. I believe those switches open the gates, shut off magnet power and the power to the motor that moves the magnet.

Those switches don't trigger the gate, they just trigger the Magnet Left/Right and stop the motor. If that also opened the gate, then the ball wouldn't make it into the pocket.

#1639 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Those switches don't trigger the gate, they just trigger the Magnet Left/Right and stop the motor. If that also opened the gate, then the ball wouldn't make it into the pocket.

You may be right. Don't have my game nearby to check. Technically, they don't trigger magnet left/right. They are the magnet left/right switches. The long range and pocket optos likely tell the CPU to move the magnet left or right. The magnet left/right switches are shown in the switch matrix, but don't show in the display during magnet test.

#1640 5 years ago

So I am back to square one? Wonder why its such a mystery to find out how the left gate knows to open...I can't find anything anywhere that definitively says what makes it open.

#1641 5 years ago

What exactly is your problem? Is the gate not opening at all during play? Is it closing too soon? How does it look on the DMD in Magnet Test?

#1642 5 years ago

Just got mine back from getting the playfield clearcoated. The kabinet is original and unfaded. Hardly any damage also. Also got it ledded up!
Very happy with this one!

DSC06002.JPG
DSC06001.JPG

#1643 5 years ago

@aobrian5. In coil test the coil fires and opens the gate. In Mist ball test the gate will not open at all ever. During game play the left gate does not open at all. So what ever triggers or tells the CPU to open the gate to accpet the ball into the left pock is not working/happening. I can't find any info anywhere on what triggers the gate to open. If I knew what triggers it I could check that part and fix it. I don't have the full schematics for this game so I can't see what runs that solenoid. I see that the Fliptronics board has a "left gate actuator for sol. 36 via J907 4 - J902 4. and I also found U3 on the 24 Switch Opto assembly is labeled as a I.C. 555 Timer. So I am not sure if the left gate is controlled by a timer located on the 24 Switch Opto Assembly, If its controlled by the Flipptronics board, the MPU or the Left magnet switch under the playfield. So what I am trying to do is find out what controls the gate and fix it.

#1644 5 years ago

I have done some more research and I really think the I.C. 555 timer is the chip on the 24 opto board that sense how far the ball is away and opens the left gate. Can someone confirm if my guess is correct. Its like a $5 dollar chip so that would be a cheap fix.

#1645 5 years ago

Ok, cool, your idea should make it easier to find. I do have the schematics at home, so I can take a look tonight.

#1646 5 years ago

@aobrien5 That would be awesome, really appreciate it.

#1647 5 years ago
Quoted from goodgameslover:

Just got mine back from getting the playfield clearcoated. The kabinet is original and unfaded. Hardly any damage also. Also got it ledded up!
Very happy with this one!

DSC06002.JPG 284 KB

DSC06001.JPG 331 KB

I think you need one more trash can next to it

#1648 5 years ago

I thought they where droids.

#1649 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinballerchef:

I think you need one more trash can next to it

But there are so many already!

#1650 5 years ago
Quoted from joe2012:

hi nos,put the game into switch test and drop a ball in to the mystery hole#58, wiggle your finger in the left side magnet pocket,did any switches register? g.l.joe

It registered dropping it in the mystery hole, but the left side magnet pocket the optos aren't registering.

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There are 7066 posts in this topic. You are on page 33 of 142.

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