(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

6 years ago



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There are 6824 posts in this topic. You are on page 30 of 137.
#1451 5 years ago
Quoted from yoshootme:

mine is possessed! as the ball goes to the inlane ,an apparition pulls it into the outlane, EVERY TIME!!!! wth!

Does Dracula laugh at you when this happens?

#1452 5 years ago
Quoted from yoshootme:

mine is possessed! as the ball goes to the inlane ,an apparition pulls it into the outlane, EVERY TIME!!!! wth!

Its like there is an event horizon around the outlanes as if they were a black hole. Once the ball gets too close it gets sucked in.

#1453 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

That was exactly the issue. THANK YOU!
I should have been paying attention. If I could only find the issue with my GI lights. I will keep at it.

What is wrong with the GI lights?

#1454 5 years ago

its official.

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#1455 5 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

its official.

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Nice collection.

Quoted from mcclad:

What is wrong with the GI lights?

I posted earlier where the left bank, pops, and middle bank GI are out after installing LED's. The flashers in the middle of each bank flash as the castle lock is lit. Fuse 106 (12 A) is fine. Must be a wire loose or cold solder??

#1456 5 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

its official.

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2 shadows???

#1457 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

I posted earlier where the left bank, pops, and middle bank GI are out after installing LED's. The flashers in the middle of each bank flash as the castle lock is lit. Fuse 106 (12 A) is fine. Must be a wire loose or cold solder??

If you shorted something when installing the LEDs and blew the fuse, you may have blown all the bulbs. I did the same thing in the same location. Move one of the LEDs to another location to make sure it's not the bulb.

#1458 5 years ago
Quoted from TomGWI:

2 shadows???

the one on the left is up for sale.

#1459 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

If you shorted something when installing the LEDs and blew the fuse, you may have blown all the bulbs. I did the same thing in the same location. Move one of the LEDs to another location to make sure it's not the bulb.

I have tried that as well. I did not blow the fuse and the original 106 12A still tests fine with MM. For a short time after the LED install that section worked fine.

#1460 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

I have tried that as well. I did not blow the fuse and the original 106 12A still tests fine with MM. For a short time after the LED install that section worked fine.

Sounds like a loose wire then. Find the last bulb on the strand and start tracing. Luckily that's a pretty small set of bulbs.

#1461 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Sounds like a loose wire then. Find the last bulb on the strand and start tracing. Luckily that's a pretty small set of bulbs.

Thanks again. Following the wires is a difficult task for me but I think the last one on that chain is located at the middle target bank. I'll start from there and work backwards.

#1462 5 years ago

I joined the club last night! Found a nice looking example with some typical fading on one side of the cabinet but a beautiful SP playfield inside. I fixed a few stuck switches and the game plays pretty well but I am still having problems with coffin and castle multiball.

In Castle Multiball: When you lock a ball in castle lock 1 a new ball does not enter the shooter lane. The game just sits there and eventually goes into ball search mode.

In Coffin Multiball: When you raise the ramp the Coffin Lock light comes on. However when you shoot into the coffin lock nothing happens, the ball is just kicked out of the coffin. No animation on the screen, the game just acts like nothing happened.

All optos and switches are testing good. Anyone have any ideas? Figured I would check here before posting a new thread. Thanks!

#1463 5 years ago

Definitely an opto problem. Look back a few posts with others having the same problem. They can be intermittent so pull then out and test them.

#1464 5 years ago

Boy the coffin multiball problem you're having is exactly what was happening with mine when the opto was bad, so I'm surprised it's testing fine since it's the same problem I had. Maybe just manually check that opto? You'll have to unscrew the pair, but it they're not hard to reach.

Are you getting any error messages?

#1465 5 years ago

Thanks guys, that was fast! I will look back into some of the previous posts and see if anything there helps. The optos test fine in the edge switch test mode. I do get an error in the test report to check the left ramp opto, but it also tests fine and registers everytime I make the shot.

#1466 5 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

its official.

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I'm liking the chrome! How much did it set you back? How difficult was it to get the side rails off and on?

#1467 5 years ago
Quoted from NorCalRealtor:

I'm liking the chrome! How much did it set you back? How difficult was it to get the side rails off and on?

the chrome is badass.. It came with and I have not replaced rails so I could not tell you how difficult it was.

#1468 5 years ago

So, I was hoping to put a ColorDMD running Sigma software into my BSD. While trying to do so, I ran into a couple issues. The lamp board is something I can deal with. But, I was surprised with the display panel.

I had assumed (yes, ass of u and me), that it had a similar setup to what Stern uses today by putting a separate color filter between the display and the display panel. Well, I would never have guess that they would have processed the display panel to include the filter.

So, has anyone ever managed to remove the color layer from this display panel (or another game done the same way)? Is there a way to lift it off or is it bonded to the panel?

Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Jaz

#1469 5 years ago

Joining the club this saturday.

This pin better live up to the hype!

#1470 5 years ago

It will, very hard pin, short games, truly one of those games where you just have to push start one more time, only to be beaten up again and again. I'm a decent player, but in three months or so of owning, still haven't hit three MBs. Make sure those flippers are good and strong, you can't afford to not make the left ramp on the first try.

#1471 5 years ago
Quoted from Jazman:

So, I was hoping to put a ColorDMD running Sigma software into my BSD. While trying to do so, I ran into a couple issues. The lamp board is something I can deal with. But, I was surprised with the display panel.
I had assumed (yes, ass of u and me), that it had a similar setup to what Stern uses today by putting a separate color filter between the display and the display panel. Well, I would never have guess that they would have processed the display panel to include the filter.
So, has anyone ever managed to remove the color layer from this display panel (or another game done the same way)? Is there a way to lift it off or is it bonded to the panel?
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. Thanks,
Jaz

I just replaced my DMD, but I went a different route then colorDMD. The original DMD was "blood" red stock from the factory, not the standard orange. I got the 5901-12784-00 eplacement DMD thats at pinball life / Macro ect thats the standard orange and got the red "Display Shield" from Pinbits. It looks great and 1/2 the cost of using sigma. So just another option there. Total install time was less than 5 minutes.

#1472 5 years ago

Game is a true beast. I have played about 20 games 19 of them under 100m and 1 1B game. All games under 5 minutes

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#1473 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

I just replaced my DMD, but I went a different route then colorDMD. The original DMD was "blood" red stock from the factory, not the standard orange. I got the 5901-12784-00 eplacement DMD thats at pinball life / Macro ect thats the standard orange and got the red "Display Shield" from Pinbits. It looks great and 1/2 the cost of using sigma. So just another option there. Total install time was less than 5 minutes.

I think your game was either not stock or there's a chance they changed how they were making them mid-stream. It wouldn't be the first time that happened.

The manual for BSD (page 2-4) calls out a standard 5901-12784-00 display. In my case, the blood red is achieved by a red shield/film that is actually masked onto the speaker panel plastic. This accomplishes the same thing as you were saying you did.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3072/Williams_1993_Bram_Stoker_s_Dracula_English_Manual.pdf

Are you saying that your speaker panel was clear for the part that goes in front of the DMD? Is your game a US model or re-import? Is there a manufacturing date on your labels that you could share?

Thanks,
Jaz

#1474 5 years ago
Quoted from n0s4atu:

Boy the coffin multiball problem you're having is exactly what was happening with mine when the opto was bad, so I'm surprised it's testing fine since it's the same problem I had. Maybe just manually check that opto? You'll have to unscrew the pair, but it they're not hard to reach.
Are you getting any error messages?

Quoted from aobrien5:

Definitely an opto problem. Look back a few posts with others having the same problem. They can be intermittent so pull then out and test them.

Ok I was able to give it another try today on my lunch break. I left the game unplugged and untouched since I posted last night. I started it up and the coffin multiball was working! So I tried the castle multiball, also working! I think the coffin opto might be intermittent as i hear a solenoid firing randomly at times. I have never owned a game with optos, do they require maintenance/cleaning? Or is this one of those things you just leave alone if it's working?

Thanks in advance. Side note: When you can play this game it is fun as hell!

#1475 5 years ago
Quoted from Jazman:

I think your game was either not stock or there's a chance they changed how they were making them mid-stream. It wouldn't be the first time that happened.
The manual for BSD (page 2-4) calls out a standard 5901-12784-00 display. In my case, the blood red is achieved by a red shield/film that is actually masked onto the speaker panel plastic. This accomplishes the same thing as you were saying you did.
http://mirror2.ipdb.org/files/3072/Williams_1993_Bram_Stoker_s_Dracula_English_Manual.pdf
Are you saying that your speaker panel was clear for the part that goes in front of the DMD? Is your game a US model or re-import? Is there a manufacturing date on your labels that you could share?
Thanks,
Jaz

Mine has the thin red film, but when i put in the replacement display it was not effective enough to make the display red, still showed through orange. I couldn't let Dracula be orange so i the got the red display cover. The DMD i took out of the unit was indeed red and the plastic cap deal on the back was red, the replacement orange has an orange cap. The display was supposedly original and with the amount of burn-in i would believe it. I found listed on a wiki when i was looking to replace it "was characterized by its unusual blood-red DMD display (most other games at the time used orange for their color)" but not sure of the accuracy of that statement. But the the red filter on the game definitely wasn't enough to tint the orange DMD red as it was.

#1476 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

Mine has the thin red film, but when i put in the replacement display it was not effective enough to make the display red, still showed through orange. I couldn't let Dracula be orange so i the got the red display cover. The DMD i took out of the unit was indeed red and the plastic cap deal on the back was red, the replacement orange has an orange cap. The display was supposedly original and with the amount of burn-in i would believe it. I found listed on a wiki when i was looking to replace it "was characterized by its unusual blood-red DMD display (most other games at the time used orange for their color)" but not sure of the accuracy of that statement. But the the red filter on the game definitely wasn't enough to tint the orange DMD red as it was.

Yea, that quote about the blood-red DMD was referring to what the red filter does. However, I'm not aware of any red plasma displays. The color of the cap does not indicate color. I have plenty of old and newer displays, all orange, that have red caps.

I suspect that the current generation displays (like the ones that PinballLife sells), are much brighter orange than the original ones from 1992-1993. So, the red film on the display panel was enough to color the display.

Even today, Stern uses red films (although they use a separate piece like the one you mention using) to color the orange DMDs red. I had to remove it to add a Sigma display to my Metallica to be able to use the color features of that one.

Jaz

#1477 5 years ago

I should plug the old one back in and see if its red or not without the filter. All super interesting though. Im really happy with how it looks now.

#1478 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

Ok I was able to give it another try today on my lunch break. I left the game unplugged and untouched since I posted last night. I started it up and the coffin multiball was working! So I tried the castle multiball, also working! I think the coffin opto might be intermittent as i hear a solenoid firing randomly at times. I have never owned a game with optos, do they require maintenance/cleaning? Or is this one of those things you just leave alone if it's working?
Thanks in advance. Side note: When you can play this game it is fun as hell!

Mostly maintenance free, but you should clean them when you're in the area cleaning other things. Qtip with alcohol on each diode.

#1479 5 years ago

There was never a red display in BSD where the actual display was red. They used the exact same DMD they did in every other game. The red was achieved with coloring of the speaker panel in front of the DMD.

#1480 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Mostly maintenance free, but you should clean them when you're in the area cleaning other things. Qtip with alcohol on each diode.

Thanks, I will do that. Turns out the noise I heard that I thought was the coffin popper was the coil for the drop target that was getting stuck. I fixed that and got about 10 games on it tonight, no problems at all. Only 1 issue left, I am getting a credit dot and the test reports says to check the U.R. Flipper switch F6. Seems weird since there are no upper flippers, but when doing a switch test if I push the left flipper button in all the way it does light U.L Flipper switch. Anyone have any thoughts on this? And which flipper button is behaving normally?

#1481 5 years ago

Your flipper-board (behind the flipper-button) has two opto's each.
It's a generic board which can facilitate two flippers each.

Try cleaning these opto's with some windex or alcohol.
Also make sure when the flipper-button is pressed, the blade is pushed out far enough.

#1482 5 years ago

Also try reseating the ribbon cable from CPU to flipper board in the backbox.

#1483 5 years ago

do the above first. if still no good swap flipper opto boards left side to right side and make sure both are connected.if the problem moves to the other side the problem is on that board.g.l.joe

#1484 5 years ago

So the black plastic shroud on the backside of the coffin. It has a long screw from the top. What does this screw thread into? Am i missing a nut that goes in between the coffin cover plastic and the metal bracket for the above coffin blue lights? I dug through the manual and found no reference.

#1485 5 years ago
Quoted from CptAwesomest:

So the black plastic shroud on the backside of the coffin. It has a long screw from the top. What does this screw thread into? Am i missing a nut that goes in between the coffin cover plastic and the metal bracket for the above coffin blue lights? I dug through the manual and found no reference.

pretty sure there's supposed to be a standoff and a very short screw.

#1486 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

pretty sure there's supposed to be a standoff and a very short screw.

..... interesting

#1487 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

pretty sure there's supposed to be a standoff and a very short screw.

Correct. There should be a hex standoff. Will have to measure it later. Unless someone else jumps in with the size

#1489 5 years ago
Quoted from kpull:

2.25 inches

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Thank you! Much appreciated. Added to my pinball life order.

#1490 5 years ago
Quoted from Thor-NL:

Your flipper-board (behind the flipper-button) has two opto's each.
It's a generic board which can facilitate two flippers each.
Try cleaning these opto's with some windex or alcohol.
Also make sure when the flipper-button is pressed, the blade is pushed out far enough.

Quoted from Blackbeard:

Also try reseating the ribbon cable from CPU to flipper board in the backbox.

Quoted from joe2012:

do the above first. if still no good swap flipper opto boards left side to right side and make sure both are connected.if the problem moves to the other side the problem is on that board.g.l.joe

Tried the first few suggestions no luck, swapped the boards and the problem switched sides. Gonna look into fixing or replacing that board, thanks everyone!

#1491 5 years ago

I'm in! Picked up a nice Unfaded bsd at pinfest!
That's my friend AJ in the photobomb.

image-971.jpg
#1492 5 years ago

I love it when I can't leave well enough alone. I was checking my flashers to see which ones were not working and which ones were. I was going to start with the three 906 bulbs in the lower part of the speaker panel. I removed the circuit board and then replaced the bulbs. I turned on the machine to go into a test to see if they would work. I realized that I had not plugged the connector onto the board and as I did, I heard a click on the playfield and smelled something electrical burning. Just a slight smell but enough of it to tell me that I just F'd up something on the machine that I worked so hard to get running, which it was. Now when I turn on the machine there is a buzzing coming from the coffin multiball ramp and it moves up a fraction and the drops down. It kind of just flutters. Not much movement. There is only one plug going to that flasher board and when I plugged it back in it went the same way on as it was before. I can not see right now how it would be related unless I fried something on the driver board. In a solenoid test for the coffin ramp, it does no go up at all. Help me Obi Wan Kenobi, you guys are my only hope.

#1493 5 years ago

Ok looks like I have a new problem. My flippers were all of a sudden weak tonight (I put 20 games on this afternoon no problem). If I go into the switch test my flipper optos are cycling when i hold them and I know this is not supposed to happen. All other optos are also cycling when the path is not blocked, but I am not sure if this is normal or not. If I test the receiver with the flashlight method it continues to cycle. Anyone have any thoughts on what could cause this? Bad opto board?

#1494 5 years ago
Quoted from Blackbeard:

I'm in! Picked up a nice Unfaded bsd at pinfest!
That's my friend AJ in the photobomb.

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Wow you got a deal they threw in Renfield also.

#1495 5 years ago
Quoted from Troutfarm:

its official.

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The black nickel trim is very nice. There is a guy near me who did the gun on my Shadow with black nickel but claims he is no longer is doing trim. Does anyone know who does plating this color? That just looks perfect on Dracula.

#1496 5 years ago
Quoted from mcclad:

I love it when I can't leave well enough alone. I was checking my flashers to see which ones were not working and which ones were. I was going to start with the three 906 bulbs in the lower part of the speaker panel. I removed the circuit board and then replaced the bulbs. I turned on the machine to go into a test to see if they would work. I realized that I had not plugged the connector onto the board and as I did, I heard a click on the playfield and smelled something electrical burning. Just a slight smell but enough of it to tell me that I just F'd up something on the machine that I worked so hard to get running, which it was. Now when I turn on the machine there is a buzzing coming from the coffin multiball ramp and it moves up a fraction and the drops down. It kind of just flutters. Not much movement. There is only one plug going to that flasher board and when I plugged it back in it went the same way on as it was before. I can not see right now how it would be related unless I fried something on the driver board. In a solenoid test for the coffin ramp, it does no go up at all. Help me Obi Wan Kenobi, you guys are my only hope.

I replaced the same flashers not long ago without incident. I did everything with the game off however. Have you had any success? Any error messages?

#1497 5 years ago

Well I am back in the club. Sold two BSD's before deciding to buy one last one. Glad I kept my topper. The girl even resembles my EX.

to_BSD.jpg

#1498 5 years ago
Quoted from Tyson1868:

I replaced the same flashers not long ago without incident. I did everything with the game off however. Have you had any success? Any error messages?

No success yet. still trying to troubleshoot.

#1499 5 years ago
Quoted from mcclad:

No success yet. still trying to troubleshoot.

Since I had the circuit board off the speaker panel when I changed the bulbs, I am wondering if I had it upside down when I put the plug on the pins.

#1500 5 years ago
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:

Well I am back in the club. Sold two BSD's before deciding to buy one last one. Glad I kept my topper. The girl even resembles my EX.

to_BSD.jpg 175 KB

Best topper EVER !

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
3,750
Machine - For Sale
San Antonio, TX
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