(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians


By shacklersrevenge

7 years ago



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#1801 5 years ago

Wow that is spooky that's how I want mine to look. Lol

Really like it looks great ....

#1802 5 years ago

So, I was having some wild issues with my BSD the last 24 hours. Watch the video for more, including the solution.

So glad to have figured that one out. Basically, my opto transmitter and receiver were out of alignment, causing all sorts of crazy issues.

Magnet test was failing before Opto Test 1 could even begin - kept coming up with "Magnet Unload" error. Then when going into attract mode, the game would not pop a ball into the shooter lane, lift the ramp, and deposit the ball into the right gate area (transmitter side of the game).

Man, that was driving me nuts. If any of this ever happens to you totally out of the blue, CHECK the alignment of your opto transmitter and receiver.

Finally got the game put back together and played a well-deserved game. I got owned, but it felt so good to play a full game with zeo issues (other than a trough switch needing to be serviced as well as my diverter).

#1803 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Then when going into attract mode, the game would not pop a ball into the shooter lane, lift the ramp, and deposit the ball into the right gate area (transmitter side of the game).

If the game knows the magnet test is failing, it assumes the Mist function is not working and will not load a ball. When you shoot the hole to start what should be the Mist ball traveling over the playfield, it will simply serve a ball from the trough into play and give you an automatic Mist multiball. The game (programmer) is smarter than you think!

#1804 5 years ago

Also @NewPinOwner - is that a plain green launch button you have? Is your machine by chance a German re-import? That's the same launch button I had on mine, where as they typically have the red "Launch Ball" button. I figured it was just replaced some time down the road, but now I wonder.

#1805 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Also @NewPinOwner - is that a plain green launch button you have? Is your machine by chance a German re-import? That's the same launch button I had on mine, where as they typically have the red "Launch Ball" button. I figured it was just replaced some time down the road, but now I wonder.

My launch button is bare white. I actually have a new unit ready to install tomorrow after work. It does look to be a re-import, but I would not know how to determine its origins. Funny thing, parts of the INSIDE of the cabinet are made from an old WH2O; you can clearly see the side cabinet art on the inside of my cabinet ...

I'll take some pictures soon so you can see. It really is a trip.

#1806 5 years ago

Well, got some more things done to BSD over the last 24 hours. Installed some new lower translite trim. Had to cut it to the right length, but I think it came out pretty well.

Before:

Picture 070.jpg

After:

Picture 072.jpg

Installed a new launch ball button. Had to do some small de-solder and soldering to the new switch that came with the button - overall looks great!

What my BSD came with:
Picture 073.jpg

Quick picture of the old switch:

Picture 079.jpg

New switch:

Picture 082.jpg

And finally, the new button installed:

Picture 083.jpg

Next, I soldered a new lamp socket that had been broken off the "cross" PCB

Old:

Picture 085.jpg

Old broken solder joints cleaned up and ready:

Picture 086.jpg

New lamp socket soldered in place:

Picture 088.jpg

And finally, all cross inserts lit for the first time in 2 weeks :

Picture 089.jpg

Got some more "new" trim to install. Still need to replace a trough switch as one of them is sticking each time Castle Lock occurs - essentially creating a quick 2 ball multiball. Need to clean the Castle Lock post as well as the diverter. Once these things are done, I think we'll have a 100% perfectly working BSD. Maybe ._.

#1807 5 years ago

Nice work man. Looking good.

#1808 5 years ago

Thanks AO!! And thank you for all your help and suggestions with everything lately. You've answered practically every question I've thrown out here, and I am super grateful.

At first, honestly, I was in over my head a tiny bit on this BSD, but now, we're really close to being caught up. I paid $2300 for it, and what I was really paying for was a x < 1 hour drive. I'm tired of 5 to 8 hr drives each way - no more of that for a while .

#1809 5 years ago

Looking good. I wish there were more mod for BSD.

#1810 5 years ago
Quoted from achtungboyy:

Looking good. I wish there were more mod for BSD.

Thank you! I am thinking about doing the light up cross mods. Those look really good.

Got some more stuff done today. Nothing SUPER fancy, but it's all this little stuff that adds up!

So, installed new rear glass trim today:

Before:

Picture 004.jpg

And after:

Picture 005.jpg

Finally finished off the inserts with LEDs. Now all that's left is one in the coffin, one pop bumper, and the 2 underneath the main left ramp.

Changed out the coil sleeve for the disappearing post. Put on a small drop of oil on the spring, wiped off the excess, and sandpapered all the grime off the metal brackets. Seems to be operating a lot more smoothly now! I had to modify a sleeve I had that was the right length but with an exterior ring. I grinded the ring off, so now it fits like it should. I'll order the correct one from Marco very soon.

Picture 011.jpg

Lastly as of now, I changed out my start button. Got tired of having to push it 10 times to get the game to start. Had to crimp on some new female connectors as the male spade was too big for some of the female ends on the pin's wiring harness.

Old unit:

Picture 014.jpg

New on left, old on right:

Picture 015.jpg

New one installed!

Picture 016.jpg

And finally, front view of the new unit:

Picture 018.jpg

Still have to clean up the diverter. I was playing with the glass off, and when the diverter operates, I can hear something buzzing for 3+ seconds, as if the diverter is sticking. Got a new coil sleeve ready for it too. Going to get some isopropyl alcohol and clean it up. Hopefully, that'll make it behave.

Still have to figure out the "mini multiball" every time Castle Locks occur. The optos all trip correctly in switch test mode, and I don't believe I have a sticky switch as all of the rollover arms were clearly in the up position with the apron off. Maybe there's something I am overlooking.... we'll see.

Back I go!

#1811 5 years ago

Ok, so I got the diverter working again. Let me tell you this: be VERY patient in this area. Take lots of pictures, and TAKE your time doing this. On my BSD, there are multiple bundles of wiring near this diverter coil, and man, it was a test of my patience and understanding.

So, for reference for anyone who may need them, here are some pictures of the diverter assembly under the PF:

Picture 090.jpg

Picture 091.jpg

Picture 092.jpg

Picture 093.jpg

Picture 094.jpg

Picture of the old and new coil sleeve:

Picture 096.jpg

Now, when you assemble this area, that 8-32 bolt with locking washer and 8-32 locking hexnut will be a MAJOR test of your patience. The bolt has to go through two brackets with about 1/16" of clearance to get both the locking washer and locking hexnut on. My advice, DO NOT put the 4 assembly anchor screws in first - get the 8-32 bolt with locking washer and hexnut in place first - THEN proceed to put the 4 assembly anchoring screws in.

Once this was re-assembled, my diverter was still being a bit twitchy. So, I took 3-in-1 oil and compressed the spring above the coil assembly (under the PF). I put one drop in that area and rapidly compressed and de-compressed the spring. Still no progress. So then, I took the 3-in-1 oil and let 2-3 drops run down the diverter arm, and then I manually pushed the diverter up and down, and you could definitely see a difference.

Then, I went into solenoid tests and activated the diverter, and it clearly was functioning properly. Then, I exited the test mode and played a game - no more secret passages when giving the left ramp a solid shot. Finally, the diverter arm acted as it should for bats/castle lock ONLY - what a great feeling to see that!

So, now the last thing I have to do is fix the "mini" multiball that occurs whenever Castle Locks are engaged. Basically, the shooter lane loads a ball and fires it onto the PF, and then the Castle Lock ball is released and shot into the PF as well. First, I plan on checking my optos to make sure all 3 are activating properly. Then, I'll check my switch assembly (man, what a PITA that area is) and de-grease/de-grime and/or replace my switches as necessary.

So close.... almost to a 100% fully working BSD !!!

My desk at the end of tonight. You can't even see everything on the floor around my machines - what a mess....

Picture 098.jpg

#1812 5 years ago

Oiling your machine is generally a no-no because it attracts dirty and will gum things up much faster.

Sounds like you're really bringing that thing back from the dead though!

#1813 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Oiling your machine is generally a no-no because it attracts dirty and will gum things up much faster.
Sounds like you're really bringing that thing back from the dead though!

Yep, I definitely knew I was "going against the grain" on that one. This diverter was so gummed up, it would stick down and stay down. It couldn't even try to come back up. It was VERY rough. I was hesitant even telling anyone I used oil, but it was a very small amount, and it was NOT WD-40. That junk will give you hell fast. 3-in-1 oil is much more viscous, and I wiped off as much of the excess as I possibly could.

This BSD was definitely....well....it deserves some much overdue loving, and I am more than happy to do it !

Got to get a good picture of the LEDs all on soon.

#1814 5 years ago

Well, that didn't take long ....

Multiple pictures of the LEDs. First picture is just GI. Rest are assorted insert PF pics.

Picture 100.jpg

Picture 101.jpg

Picture 102.jpg

Picture 103.jpg

#1815 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Yep, I definitely knew I was "going against the grain" on that one. This diverter was so gummed up, it would stick down and stay down. It couldn't even try to come back up. It was VERY rough. I was hesitant even telling anyone I used oil, but it was a very small amount, and it was NOT WD-40. That junk will give you hell fast. 3-in-1 oil is much more viscous, and I wiped off as much of the excess as I possibly could.
This BSD was definitely....well....it deserves some much overdue loving, and I am more than happy to do it !
Got to get a good picture of the LEDs all on soon.

Are you planning to give it a full cleaning soon then? That should be all it needs. I know some of these mechs are not easy to get to...

#1816 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

Are you planning to give it a full cleaning soon then? That should be all it needs. I know some of these mechs are not easy to get to...

Hard to say. I have EASILY been working on this machine more than my other 3 combined. I worked on it for 7 hours at the seller's home before I even brought it back to my place. It's been an uphill battle, but it is starting to pan out now .

To do a full tear-down (top portion of PF) would be very involved, and I don't mind doing it. I just want to play the game a couple weeks at a minimum before going all out with a shop job/cleaning. It's been a very rewarding experience to work on this game, but I need some "fun time" before doing a thorough cleaning.

Got the Polk external subwoofer coming in tomorrow. Have some small knick-knack stuff to buy for the machines, and have the cliffys coming for it as well. I also am getting some great touch-up pens to start bringing the reds back into the cabinet.

We'll get to the detination - for now - the journey is the fun part .

#1817 5 years ago

hi newpin, I tried markers on the red and couldn't stand it. I went and got a h.f. airbrush kit.paint and friscket.it took a looong time but it came out pretty good.let us know how yours comes out. g.l.joe

#1818 5 years ago

I no longer have BSD, but I do remember that if you follow the instruction manuals routing for rubber it often rubs on the diverter arm making it unreliable. I saw it in a post here somewhere, could be something to look out for as well. You can make a slight modification in how the rubber is installed and no more problems. The trouble is that often you don't realize it's a problem until all the ramps and coffin are back in place

#1819 5 years ago

Just got done with multiple orders for BSD. Got new set of opts on the way along with 3+ of every coil sleeve in this game as well as 15+ flashers to install. Also, ordered the touch-up pens. They are called MOLOTOW and were highly recommended to me by a fellow Pinsider. We'll see how it turns out!

Man, I just don't even look at the total amounts anymore x_x ....

More updates to come later this week! I am reading all posts directed at me, sorry if I don't personally respond to each one - nothing personal D: .....!

#1820 5 years ago
Quoted from skywelker:

I no longer have BSD, but I do remember that if you follow the instruction manuals routing for rubber it often rubs on the diverter arm making it unreliable. I saw it in a post here somewhere, could be something to look out for as well. You can make a slight modification in how the rubber is installed and no more problems. The trouble is that often you don't realize it's a problem until all the ramps and coffin are back in place

You're right, I totally forgot about that rubber effecting the diverter arm. You have to just route the rubber around a different post or something. It was easy enough that I figured that out on my own.

#1821 5 years ago

Another bump for new plastic sets.

Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:

I posted this in another thread but thought I'd share it here also. In regards to repro BSD plastic sets.
Here's what I'm going to do for now. My apologies, but it's just easier this way.
The set is $158 plus $12 shipping, in the US. I can ship as many sets as you want for $12. Send me a check for as many sets as you want along with the shipping cost and I'll send them out as quickly as I can. The set contains everything you need along with extra sling and extra center target plastics. If, for some reason, you're not happy with them, just send them back and I'll be more than happy to send you a refund.
Please include your shipping info and your Pinside handle. I will eventually be contacting those in this thread and don't want to contact you if you've already ordered a set. I do not know that Bill Smith is bigf'ingdick33 on Pinside, so please let me know who you are. It'll make my life a whole lot easier, although I know some will still f' this part up. A number of these are eventually going to Rick at PPS and BAA, so if you don't get them from me, you can order them there.
Please send check to:
Bryan Kelly
18890 Elgin Ave
Farmington MN 55024

#1822 5 years ago

So, my wifey went ahead tonight and started applying reds to the side art on the cabinet. It looks pretty darn good! Way better than those pale whites I was looking at. We still have a ways to go before it's all re-applied, but we'll get there; it definitely is looking great so far!

Before:

Picture 104.jpg

After:

Picture 105.jpg
Picture 106.jpg
Picture 107.jpg

#1823 5 years ago

Alright guys, finally got my LND to light up properly! Here's a brief tutorial. I got an led strip from mezel (can get about anywhere) and an old 555 led. I pulled the old led apart so I could reuse the housing, fed the wires on the led strip through the housing and folded them over like the led leads were. Then hot glued it in.

IMAG0841.jpg

Plug that into one of the sockets, stick the strip on:

IMAG0843.jpg

And voila!

IMAG0851.jpg

#1824 5 years ago

Nice job on LND! Looks amazing. Really creative solution too.

#1825 5 years ago

This looks great. Nice job.

#1826 5 years ago

Well, got the new Dracula and cliffy ball trough installed tonight. The new Dracula looks 1000x better than Ron Jeremy.

image096.jpg

image098.jpg

image099.jpg

image100.jpg

These PCB 555 bulb sockets are SUPER tight....getting an LED in there was quite a challenge on the middle socket. Here is a reference picture for what I did to make it work. If you do this, remember as you grip down on the channel locks with force: less is more. Go slow and be patient. You do NOT want to break the bulb socket out of place on this one.

image101.jpg

image102.jpg

image103.jpg

image104.jpg

image106.jpg

image107.jpg

image108.jpg

image109.jpg

image110.jpg

image111.jpg

image113.jpg

#1827 5 years ago

Looking good Newpin! Glad you like your Drac.
Keith

#1828 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

So, my wifey went ahead tonight and started applying reds to the side art on the cabinet. It looks pretty darn good! Way better than those pale whites I was looking at. We still have a ways to go before it's all re-applied, but we'll get there; it definitely is looking great so far!

What did she use as paint to get the red back? I am going to eventually put new cabinet side art on but wouldn't mind doing that till I get time.

#1829 5 years ago

KPorter:

She used this marker right here

http://www.molotow.com/products/marker-ink/one4all/327hs/

Paint code is "013" Traffic Red. You have to put on multiple coats. At first, it will almost look pink. The more coats applied, the more blood red it begins to look.

#1830 5 years ago

is that the web site you bought it on? I can't seem to find where to buy it from the link. It tells you all about it but no buy option?

#1831 5 years ago

No, that is Molo's main website. You can buy it at :

http://artprimo.com/catalog/molotow-high-solid-327hs-one4all-marker-p-3161.html

Make sure you get some that are extra fine so you don't "overlap paint" with the red on the black night of the cabinet art.

Main selection is here:

http://artprimo.com/catalog/molotow-markers-one4all-markers-c-28_37_183.html

#1832 5 years ago

I recently accuired a BSD that was long sitting on my wantlist. Happy for this. Great game.

A few questions.

1

Any hints on lubrication of the mist magnet transport mech. Mine squeaks like mad and I'm worried about the load on the motor and other parts as well.

2

The under coffin area is very dark I believe. But I do not see any lamps out. Any hints on modding the presentation of this area.

3

The green insert light for both the castle lock/bats and the coffin lock I would like have brighter. But I would like to stick to incadecent lamps.

4

Is this game rumoured to have GI that is a little to hard on the system. I seem to have an issue of fuses popping. The game is operated and switched on some 50 hours a week.

#1833 5 years ago
Quoted from soren:

Any hints on lubrication of the mist magnet transport mech. Mine squeaks like mad and I'm worried about the load on the motor and other parts as well.

Every single BSD ive ever played has always had a squeaky motor, when i had found mine, it had been in a windowless basement for 16 years, and had only 638 original plays and it still had a squeaky motor. I honestly think thats just the way they are, but i could be wrong, i'd love to see a video of that motor going side to side silently.

Quoted from soren:

Is this game rumoured to have GI that is a little to hard on the system. I seem to have an issue of fuses popping. The game is operated and switched on some 50 hours a week

Have you tried switching to Leds? its an easy way to take a ton of stress off of your GI, and at the same time gives your game some character Although, having fuses blow, you may have a wire or wires touching underneath the playfield causing it to ground and blow your fuses.

#1834 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead87:

Every single BSD ive ever played has always had a squeaky motor, when i had found mine, it had been in a windowless basement for 16 years, and had only 638 original plays and it still had a squeaky motor. I honestly think thats just the way they are, but i could be wrong, i'd love to see a video of that motor going side to side silently.
...

Mine was squeaky, put a very light coat of sillicon lubricant in the grooves (with a rag, not sprayed freely)
World of difference!

#1835 5 years ago
Quoted from Pinhead87:

Have you tried switching to Leds? its an easy way to take a ton of stress off of your GI, and at the same time gives your game some character Although, having fuses blow, you may have a wire or wires touching underneath the playfield causing it to ground and blow your fuses.

LED, I am planing to. I know, havn't checked for shorts super thoroughly yet.

#1836 5 years ago

Game play question? When i get both coffin and castle multiball both going and shoot a ball up the left ramp, it enters the Castle look ramp and remains locked, then if i drain out of multi-ball, the game still keeps the Blue Jackpot light lit at the scoop and will release the ball in the castle lock to the shooter and autoplunge it into play, it being the only ball in play. Is this normal behavior.

#1837 5 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Game play question? When i get both coffin and castle multiball both going and shoot a ball up the left ramp, it enters the Castle look ramp and remains locked, then if i drain out of multi-ball, the game still keeps the Blue Jackpot light lit at the scoop and will release the ball in the castle lock to the shooter and autoplunge it into play, it being the only ball in play. Is this normal behavior.

Yes, and it really only applies to Castle Multiball. Shooting the left ramp is what enables the jackpot (shooting it twice will lock two balls for a double jackpot). This is a timed jackpot. If you get it, or don't get it before time runs out, the ball is unlocked and put back into play. That locked ball is still considered in play. If you lock two for a double, then drain the third, you'll still be in multiball.

#1838 5 years ago

Thanks, that explains it very well. It all makes sense now. I don't think i have achieved a double jackpot yet.

#1839 5 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Game play question? When i get both coffin and castle multiball both going and shoot a ball up the left ramp, it enters the Castle look ramp and remains locked, then if i drain out of multi-ball, the game still keeps the Blue Jackpot light lit at the scoop and will release the ball in the castle lock to the shooter and autoplunge it into play, it being the only ball in play. Is this normal behavior.

Even though it's been answered, if you want to see your question of the gameplay in action, watch from 22:00 to about 22:50. Does exactly what it sounds like you asked:

#1840 5 years ago
Quoted from Chet:

Game play question? When i get both coffin and castle multiball both going and shoot a ball up the left ramp, it enters the Castle look ramp and remains locked, then if i drain out of multi-ball, the game still keeps the Blue Jackpot light lit at the scoop and will release the ball in the castle lock to the shooter and autoplunge it into play, it being the only ball in play. Is this normal behavior.

Yes, normal. Mine did the same thing.

#1841 5 years ago

My buddy opened a barcade and wants me to put my BSD in for October to do a Halloween thing. I love BSD but the lightning flippers mke it really frustrating and almost no fun at times. Do you guys think I should out standard flippers on it while on route so people will not get so frustrated and actually play it?

#1842 5 years ago

I know the purest would not necessarily agree, but I think it would be fine to switch them. I have done that on mine. The casual player will not control the ball by trapping up balls on the flippers and flailing means a very fast game in BSD. The reduced flipper gap might make the game a little friendlier. The BSD game i have came with the original lightning flippers. From what I know, the operator had the game on location, it was not making money so he pulled it, with not may plays. He removed some boards out of it for other games and it sat in storage for years. The coin-op company sticker was still on the coin door and the original goody bag was still stapled inside. Good for me...

#1843 5 years ago
Quoted from NPO:

Even though it's been answered, if you want to see your question of the gameplay in action, watch from 22:00 to about 22:50. Does exactly what it sounds like you asked:

And then watch the whole thing so you can feel like the worst pinball player to ever touch a machine.

Quoted from Chet:

The casual player will not control the ball by trapping up balls on the flippers and flailing means a very fast game in BSD. The reduced flipper gap might make the game a little friendlier. The BSD game i have came with the original lightning flippers.

I agree. Go ahead and swap them out to make it more fun for the customers. It'll still be brutal enough anyway.

-1
#1844 5 years ago
Quoted from achtungboyy:

My buddy opened a barcade and wants me to put my BSD in for October to do a Halloween thing. I love BSD but the lightning flippers mke it really frustrating and almost no fun at times. Do you guys think I should out standard flippers on it while on route so people will not get so frustrated and actually play it?

Throw those stupid lightning flippers in the trash and put regular flippers on there like the designer intended for the game. Everyone will like it better.

#1845 5 years ago
Quoted from aobrien5:

And then watch the whole thing so you can feel like the worst pinball player to ever touch a machine.

You aren't kidding ._. .... I have watched that video so many times. I love that vid. Watching Bowen play that game by itself made me want to buy a BSD.

Haven't had a 40 min game though ._. ....

#1846 5 years ago

Purchased and installed this new cabinet speaker today:

Part #: 6MB200-4 at Parts Express:

http://www.parts-express.com/prv-audio-6mb200-4-6-1-2-midbass-woofer-4-ohm--294-2703

Practically a plug and play install:

image002.jpg

Installed in BSD:

image001-860.jpg

#1847 5 years ago

And I still got plenty of goodies to install.....

image007.jpg

#1848 5 years ago

Like this glareguard for instance .

Gross:

Picture 001.jpg

Better :

Picture 004.jpg

#1849 5 years ago

Looking good man!

#1850 5 years ago

Thanks my man. We're getting there. The 3 in 1 oil lost its effect on the diverter; it is back to being annoying and sticking. I have to pull it and clean it hopefully this weekend. Then, I will try to determine what is causing a mini 2 ball multiball everytime a castle lock occurs (shooter lane ball and then the castle lock ball is unlocked and shot onto the PF).

Almost there...!

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