Godzilla (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2021
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021
Godzilla (Pro)
Stern, 2021You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider markharris2000.
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I finally bit the bullet and rolled over an old deposit on an API Houdini into a Godzilla Premium pre-order. Wasn't even my first thought when looking for a replacement machine, but after reading almost 400 pages of pretty entusiastic owners here on pinside, the game sounds like a hoot and perfect complement to Jurassic and Guardians! Anyone know if GZ Premiums are shipping this quarter or so?
Quoted from kool1:Definitely need to un-zip the files
Unzip the files to the ROOT of a FAT32 formatted 16GB USB stick. Don't touch the file name or anything else. Then you just plug it in to the CPU board and reboot the machine.
Quoted from Lateralus:I see all these people getting their GZ this week. I had a deposit down with Cointaker (never again) back in Nov 2021. They invoiced me back in January with deadline to pay Jan 11th. She stated I'm in for the Feb run, so I paid in full. I'm still not happy about giving them an interest free loan for 6 weeks for a game that isn't shipping immediately, but I just told myself I'll never deal with them again and paid it.
I still have not received my game or any communication about it. When I emailed her this morning, she said " they are making some now, then Bond 60th, then back to GZ." I wrote back pretty frustrated stating that it's been 6 weeks since I paid and you can't even clarify if I'm getting my game in this run? When will I get it or am I getting it soon? No response yet.
Anyone else experience this? I'm actually really, really pissed off now.
She has all my money as well on a GZ-Premium but I have to stay optimistic and I am pretty sure I will get a machine in 2023. That said, my other experiences with other distributors only charge the balance for a machine that was reserved once a specific serial number box is ready to ship to the customer.
Quoted from bloodonthepins:The motor is still very firmly screwed into the cabinet, and the weights are in the same direction. But instead of quiet vibration with the intensity I'm used to, the vibrational noise is unbearable and shakes the cabinet way too much. I can't put my finger on what has changed to cause this..
As mentioned above, try aligning the 'arms' on the shaker 180-degrees. one arm up and the other arm down. That will reduce the momentum significantly.
Quoted from bloodonthepins:I can try that, but what I'm trying to figure out is what changed. I've had the motor set up since day one in June 2022, and now I've got these issues. I'm just wondering if anyone has had this issue before with a motor just getting insanely loud and intense with no change in settings, alignment, or the assembly.
Occam's razor: The simplest answer is likely the best answer.... Maybe the motor noise is coming from a noisy motor? Motors do wearout as they have bearings and run all the time.
Quoted from bloodonthepins:Yeah it's definitely coming from the motor, but as for the motor wearing out, it isn't even a year old! Hope that isn't the case, as Stern seem to be having a hard time producing these of late. Maybe it's a lemon.
It's not just about age of the motor, it's about the number of hours and the duration of play as they heat up when used consistently, which causes the bearings to wear faster. I suspect it's just a bad motor, which can be replaced quite easily. (The motor itself can be purchased for maybe $40 or so)
https://www.pinballlife.com/replacement-motor-for-stern-shaker-kits.html
Quoted from RussMyers:OK, you are probably right on this.
What I am really curious about: how exactly does this scenario happen during shipping? The game is inside a box strapped to a pallet - how does it get dropped vertically downwards with enough force to do this type of serious damage? I obviously have no idea how stuff gets moved around by "professionals" during shipping.
I'm not being argumentative; I really want to know.
RussM
Update: tgarrett09 - If you still have the skid, did it have any damage?
Just heard from a second distributor that they still expect some additional GZ Premiums to arrive over the next few days. (So all hope is not lost...)
Quoted from rennervision:Has anyone completely removed the playfield? I watched a couple of videos on how to install art blades but now I'm stumped. If I remove the playfield I don't know where to put it. I've seen people prop the playfield up against the wall or set it down on paint cans. But for GZ, I don't think that's feasible with the way this particular game's attachments underneath extend further out; they would obstruct me from doing that. Is setting it down on one of its sides an option? I don't want to do anything that could potentially damage it.
There are a number of ways to install sideblades without taking the playfield out. Wet or dry, they usually involve tilting the playfield into service position and moving it a few times, front to back. I have installed 8 machines using the dry approach, and never removed a playfield.
Quoted from TeaHaus:I didn't remove my playfield at all to get art-blades on my pro. Just lift the playfield and slide the art-blades into place. They can be maneuvered a bit before pressing down. Took maybe 15 minutes. Looks great.
Exactly as mentioned above.
For reference, I documented the dry steps in a previous note, but basically for the timid, you can just remove the center section (about 18-inches) of backing material to allow you to position each blade even more easily since it won't really stick to the wood. Your hands are only touching the blade where the backing won't allow it to stick. Once perfectly positioned, you can easily and calmly start tacking it down by applying pressure where the backing was removed in the center. After that center section is tacked down, it's easy to remove the rest of the backing material from the ends, and then use a wallpaper roller to adhere the whole thing.
Easy peasy! 8-)
Quoted from ABE_FLIPS:I see no reason why a designer want to make a rattling skillshot which only works on 50% of the plunges.
On some machines it does work without the fix and I guess that was the case with Keiths white wood.
However, I never heard a statement from him about the skillshot problems.
We all know flaws on different games, thats no shame.
Make sure to understand the picture well *perspective REAR VIEW* and you will understand what- and why the rattling happens.[quoted image][quoted image]
This detail makes the issue VERY easy to understand. Looks like a design issue (he seems to have assumed that the ball would move forward in the center of the lane instead of hugging the right wall). If I ever get delivery of my NIB (already on order), I now have the stainless steel version of ABE-FLIPS ready to install.
Quoted from Duster72:Lift the playfield and make sure all the nuts are tight on the bottom of the building. There are a few nuts that are recessed - those are the ones I had to tighten. If that fixes it take the nuts off, add some loctite, and tighten them back up. That is what Stern tech support told me to do. Hope that helps.
I suggest you use only BLUE or PURPLE loctite in a situation like this (not the RED or GREEN permanent type that you will hate down the road when you need to remove it for any reason).
Quoted from mikespins:Mine came with this
[quoted image]
Super Lube is good stuff! Thanks for your input.
A word of caution: Use lube very sparingly as it becomes a magnet for DUST. Once you start using lube, the dust will become a regular service item for you every 50-100 games or so. I prefer NOT to use it anywhere since most mechs on most modern playfields are designed not to need it.
Quoted from etr104:I was just notified by my distributor that my Godzilla Premium should be arriving in "a couple weeks." After waiting 14 months, it's definitely an exciting time for me.
I'm hoping to put a shaker motor in. I found this one on Nitro in Canada, it LOOKS like it should be the correct shaker motor, but Godzilla isn't in the list of compatible games. Can anybody confirm is this is the correct shaker motor to get for Godzilla??
https://nitropinball.com/products/stern-shaker-motor-spike-spike-2-systems
One suggestion when you install your shaker... Put a drop of BLUE Loctitle on the threads of the screws that go into the cabinet. A number of users report those loosening over time since they take a lot of vibration. BLUE (not RED) is a semi-permanent thread locker, which won't get in the way of disassembly in the future if needed. (Harbor Freight in the USA sells their generic BLUE for $2, and I am sure other places like Amazon for just a bit more)
Quoted from ktm450:Couldn’t stand looking at the cheap Stern Godzilla, replaced it with the 1956 Poster Version, painted fins blue to suit and installed. Huge improvement over original, and super easy swap out, the new model even has foot holes ready to go.
Looks like a great $70 mod for the DIY'er without alot of trouble to do so! I found lots of sources for the "NECA 1956 Godzilla" figure, and looks like a simple bit of paint on the fins to blend into the game.
Ok, I have a box of GZ mods assembled, and I had already accepted in my mind that at this point the Feb batch of machines was long depleted so I would be waiting till June or November for a NIB machine. And yet.... I opened my email today and see a shipment notification. Could it be an email error, or is it really a NIB on its way? I guess time will tell...
Update: FEDEX just notified me that "something" weighing 275 pounds is going to be delivered next tuesday. I think this is getting real... LOL
Added 13 months ago:Update #2: Received an email from the distributor this morning saying that "We are waiting for more Godzilland and elivra machines" and will advise when shipment is going to occur.
Huh? A quick check at FEDEX and I still see 275 pounds of 'something' heading to califiornia.... so it sounds like wires were crossed a bit at the distributor's back office. (uggg)
Added 13 months ago:Update #3: Confirmed with FEDEX this morning that the 300 pound delivery is in fact a GZ machine. But here's the wrinkle: they had 'lost' it in transit due to the weather over the last week! Ugg. I don't know how FEDEX stays in business... for awhile early last week it was 'Out for Delivery' twice in Williamsport PA, and then it was seen in a warehouse in Lisle Illinois on Friday, vanished for the weekend, and then was scanned in Stockton, then Sacramento, then back to Stockton and then magically showed up at their warehouse in Santa Clara, CA today. I am thinking FEDEX nodal routing apps may have too many buttons for warehouse guys to remember.
I guess anything good is worth waiting for...
Quoted from wtuttle:Help please, kind souls. I installed some mods tonight, top side. Now, the GZ game turns on, but the start button doesn't do anything. Kind of worried!
Can't find any missing connections. Any thoughts? I've included a picture, but not sure if it is helpful.
Cheers from Canada.
[quoted image]
What mods did you install? This might help us know where you were working on the machine…
Quoted from wtuttle:Thanks Mark. Problem solved by simple re-seating and re-booting.
NEXT PROBLEM--possibly with trough. Anyone not having drains register? I lose the ball, and the ball doesn't end! Any thoughts?
Reseating connectors is a way of life in the pinball biz. If money were no issue for manufacturers, the pins would be gold plated, and require FAR LESS reseating over time. (That is how high end electronics systems are built). But in the 'real' world we all live, consumer-ish products get tin-plated connectors, which age and oxidize over time. And they are suseptible to dust and dirt and mechanical issues (like the metal pin slightly coming out of the plastic shell). Rule of thumb: If you have problems, reseat connectors and visually check wires for damage.
Quoted from Killermarmot:After non-stop playing my new Zilla Premium for ~2 weeks all the hype reading on here and playing is more than confirmed, absolutely in love with this game, making to the tier 2 battles and interesting mid game modes is so exciting and different, so happy with this machine it's crazy. Upside that it compliments JP so well too, such different moods and style of play but with all the House ball side drains lol.
Now to get this shaker motor installed!
[quoted image]
Complementing existing games has always been a goal for me. I have ended up with three 'very different' and I think complementary machines: JP (2021), Gotg(2022) and GZ (in transit). I have cycled in lots of other titles for the past 4 years or so, but now settling into these three very different styles of entertainment.
Quoted from BrokenChair:I bought some mylar from Pinball life and I am putting it over the shooter lane to help with wear on the wood is that a good idea and do I only need to put one layer of it on or multiple layers? It’s super thin….
I would think one layer should do it?
It’s a little tricky, because I have to put it around that switch in the shooter lane to protect the wood on the edges at the way bottom as well from ball being launched ..
Thank you for your time help and input
You'll have to work very carefully to get the mylar to conform to the bottom of the shooter lane area where it has been routed lower to meet the shooter rod tip. The mylar is less flexible and may want to unstick after you've pushed it into that area with pressure. Also remember the ball only contacts the wood in the center third or so of the lane... so you won't need to take the mylar all the way to the lane edges if you don't wish to.
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Anyone have the wizardmods art blades? Easy to get on and reposition as they claim?
I have the wizard blades on JP and GOTG and have his latest GZ set ready to install once the machine arrives. They are easy to install using the dry method I have talked about previously. Material is great and printing is vivid.
Quoted from Mattyk:I use a dab of JB weld for any plastics. Works great
I use this version of JBWeld just to cover all bases:
https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50133-Tan-1-Pack/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=asc_df_B009EU5ZNO
but I see Superglue has their own version of a plastic fusion adhesive (but haven't tried it yet):
https://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-Plastic-Fusion-Adhesive/dp/B000LGT0GI
Quoted from Shuoink:Alright gang, its time for me to give this thing its first cleaning. Ive never owned a pin before,
Ive heard everything from just use rubbing alcohol on it, to waxing, etc.
there are the usual teeny dents on the playfield here and there, if there is some kind of wax/something i can put on it to help smooth out the playfield in between cleanings, that would be dope.
The threads i find in regard to cleaning seem to be years old and not sure if the finishes and products used today are still the same/etc or if i just need to wipe it down with a rag and some alcohol and call it good or something?
Thanks.
Everyone has their favorite approach to cleaning. Some wax, some don't. PBL has Millwax Cleaner for $15 or so, which does both, but I still use CP-100 which is a pretty delicate cleaner for grease and dust. No abrasives. About $20 on eBay.
Quoted from Bohdi:They nicked up my Pro as well. Finally after about 6 months I got my replacement cabinet decal from Stern
Now you just need to spend a whole weekend to prep and replace the decal.... uggg!
Got my hands on an original Bandai GZ Oxygen Destroyer 'paperweight' which is perfectly sized for addition to the game. It's made of metallic machined parts, steel and brass, glass and has extreme tiny detail on all parts. Ordered some SMD green strip LEDs to mount underneath it once I have my GZ dialed-in.
GZ-OXD (resized).pngQuoted from arzoo:Hey all - I need to replace the translite on my GZ and I see that Stern uses some sort of double-sided tape to keep the trim channels in place. Anyone know what kind of tape they use? Is it even necessary? Thanks.
I replaced the translite glass on a JP with a Pinstein version. Bought a piece of 1/8 glass, got the plastic channels from PBL, and just assembled it without glue or tape or anything else. Looks great and didn't need any adhesive to keep it all in place! (Glass was $20, plastic set was about $10) and I stored the factory backglass for future needs.
Quoted from gandamack:I have no idea why I did not get the Lermods plunger fix earlier. I have purchased a shit-ton of mods over the years, but this little guy is a must have for this game.
Prior to getting my machine, I bought the Chrome Candy stainless steel shooter lane fix, but when my March2023 machine arrived, I noticed it doesn't seem to need it. I am wondering if there might not be some diviations in the shooter lane ramp manufacturing or the height of the installation divets milled into the playfield with the result that the shooter lane ramp is not level left to right on some machines-- sloping to the right a bit more on some machines. This would cause the ball to hug the right wall, and hit the stainless steel lip as it falls.
So I spent some time over the weekend putting in a few upgrades on my GZ-Premium. Had time to dry install the Wiz Sideblades, the 3D DIY Mecha Spinner, the Tower roof SDTM fix, Cheko's flying saucer, Mezel's Lock 1/2/3 building marquee, and the Stern Shaker. Still in the box for another weekend, the two Mezel Noodle signs (left and right near the backboard), PBLs Tourney button Volume control replacement, the bridge replacement by Performance Pinball, Chrome Candy's bridge magnet plastic replacement, and the NECA1956 Godzilla replacement (hand painted to show blue back fins) for the back left corner. And soon to arrive is Davey's Neon #1.
All modding aside... I have to say, GZ is a really fun (albeit campy) game, and visually pretty amazing!
Quoted from Zablon:also, I'd say 90% of the time when I hit mechagodzilla the ball lands on the ramp. I'm assuming this isn't by design. Is the magnet supposed to catch the ball and drop and possibly not doing that? Or is it just something that's going to happen?
There is a stainless steel plate mounted UNDER the left spinner ramp plastics which is supposed to guide the ball to the center of the Mecha magnet. It has a gentle curve at the far end. That plate also has a slot in it to allow the plate to be adjusted a bit left or right and 'point' the ball travel to the center of the Mecha magnet. Simply loosen the screws holding the plastics and plate in place and try to adjust the plate to the right a bit. Then tighten the screws back down. See if that helps.
Quoted from prentice:Take a look at the first column here, super simple and cheap to upgrade!
http://bit.ly/sternaudio
This may also be helpful to get you started on some possible adjustments you can do in VOL SETTINGS:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/improving-sound-quality-the-diy-route/page/24#post-7509164
Quoted from ColoradoJordan:Godzilla premium is arriving today. I'm very excited for this one. What do folks consider to be the essential mods and or fixes for the game?
So far I have purchased the Tower roof SDTM fix, Stern shaker and the Tokyo Neon sign. Are most people getting the Chrome Candy under bridge metal protector? What about Cliffys, Titan rubbers? Any advice is much appreciated.
The shaker is a no-brainer, takes 5 minutes to install and it has similiar high quality integration as the Jurassic Park code does. The ramps drop balls to the inlanes, but Stern has put an extra layer of mylar at those sites so switch slot protectors might be optional for HUO, and the outhole on the playfield already has a stainless protector installed by Stern. The SDTM fix visually looks good, so I installed it even though my machine didn't need it. The shooter lane fix MAY OR MAY NOT be needed, but I bought the stainless steel one just in case I start needing it. I bought Cheko's flying saucer which is a 2 minute install that makes the right side flying saucer look much more refined and matches the playfield artwork perfectly. You might want to consider a 8-inch woofer upgrade to get some sound depth, (I went with PBLs BOOM3k). The Mecha spinner has a great 3D printed model posted on Thangs to make your own spinner replacement (throw some metallic spray on it and looks sweet). You have Davey's Neon sign, so that is a plus!
Optional: Side Blades (tilt, Wiz, Stern, etc), HD Glass ($250 or so), Mezel's 4 piece building upgrade set to make that backboard stuff really 3D looking, Precision pinball flipper bats (3 needed, and I like the GREEN like GZ himself), and perhaps one of the sets of replacement BRIDGE structures to replace the plastics. Also, consider backbox speaker upgrades to Kicker 4, or Jensen 5.25" and mounting bracket plates.
Quoted from arzoo:Anyone have a suggestion on where I can purchase a new translite (premium)? I ordered from PinballLife but apparently their entire stock of Godzilla translites have slight imperfections or damage.
Retro has a campy 1954-vintage alternative translite:
https://www.retrorefurbs.com/shop/godzilla-stern-1954-alternate-pinball-translite/
You could aslo ask any of the authorized distributors to order the Stern part #830-8427-T7 for the Premium which will be (my guess) $100 or so.
Quoted from arcyallen:Where did you get that foam ring from? Most of my NIB Sterns have had the "rattle" issue (despite them saying it's rare). If I know that fits, I'd pick up a couple.
I used the thin foam stuff from Amazon for $6 per speaker. My JP and GZ both had a hint of rattle, but the glass also may be a source of rattle for you.
Quoted from gandamack:Coming up on a 1000 plays. Machine still works perfect. Curious what others are doing at about this time in terms of maintenece.
Also, check the coil stops in the flippers. If you have metallic dust on the floor of the cabinet directly below the flippers, you may have a coil stop failing. (Apparently they fail all the time and alot of people prefer the PBL replacements). Look carefully because dust in ANY location on the cabinet floor will indicate something wearing out above on the playfield.
Quoted from Pinball-Cruiser:Hello, I know people’s thoughts on the value of mods can vary, but does anyone think the Stumblor Tokyo Neon sign mod is not worth $221 USD? Seems pricey for such a small item.
Like many things, you are paying for the intellectual property and experience, not the materials. It's probably $50 worth of parts, $50 in assembly time, and the rest is Davey's know-how, experience, and intellectual property. TO ME, its very worth it to have a purpose built, elegantly engineered interactive 'wired in' mod. It's not just lights, it's themed integration.
But as they say, everyone has to decide what it's worth TO THEM.
Quoted from wtuttle:I did the rough math. 10,000 games at an average cost of...$10,000. There you have 100 million in revenue. I think that's what we're looking at for Stern on this single title. Total homerun.
The average of $9k or $10K is retail. I am guessing distributors get around a 25% discount, so that yields $6000-7500 per unit revenue to Stern. Gross revenue on a game with 10,000 units is $60-75million. Even a 5000 unit game will be $30-40Million in gross revenues. The biggest question for me is what is the costs associated with making these? (Parts, labor, licenses, shipping, warranty, R&D, overhead, etc).
I am guessing it's a lot thinner than first glance, but your point that a large production run makes them good money is very true...
Quoted from badfish981:Hey guys, quick question…..I’m getting my 1st stern in June (GZ pro) and wondering if I need leg protectors for the cabinet. I had to put them on my CCr after I saw the decal cut which pisses me off
Stern was smart and adopted a hidden metal bracket that mounts underneath each leg, and the leg bolts go thru, raising the leg about 1/32-1/16 inch off the decal surface. It's hidden so you don't even know its there. One for each leg, and they are also held in place into the cabinet with a couple of tiny #4 wood screws with flat heads to keep it all flush under the leg. If you really want to get crazy, Marco has BLACK anodized acorn leg bolts for about $1.50 each
No worries... have fun with the machine!
Quoted from Biju:I'm so excited--I just got the email saying my Premium is ready to ship! I'm going to start digging through the thread.
In the meantime, in there anything that is a *must* for adjusting this game to perfection?
Enjoy the machine. Its a great campy theme, with lots of fun. New gamecode got posted today, so think about updating now before you get used to the older code. As for 'must' adjustments, it's pretty subjective, but consider lowering the flippers a bit after you see the shots. Also, consider ordering the shaker which is well integrated into the code.
Everything else you might be tempted to add to the machine is left to your taste (and wallet).
Quoted from acedanger:I think you need these https://www.pinballlife.com/switch-plate-left.html & https://www.pinballlife.com/switch-plate-right.html I'm going to install in mine.
The playfield alignment plates were missing on earlier GZ builds. Note there is a left and right plate with difference part numbers (mirror image of each other), so if your machine is missing those, not a bad idea to order and install one on each side.
Aligning the shooter tip more consistently is never a bad idea…
Quoted from Pinfidel:Hey All.
So, back about 10 pages ago, it was mentioned that a person installed the Myth Pinball, burning city, speaker light kit along with new 5.25 inch speakers. I've done the same thing to mine. Problem is, fhe speaker panel will not close. It hits the power box combo connector on the lower right side. Pic attached. FYI - The speaker light wires are not under the plate taking up space.
Certainly others have had this problem as well. What's the fix to get the panel to properly close and lock?
Thanks to all in advance.
Edit: I should add that I am using the 4" to 5.25" printed speaker expanders and not the 5.25 speaker plate. Thanks.
[quoted image]
Dug may have caught the ground wire issue. Mine is connected to the side of the LCD exactly as delivered from factory. I have added the Kenwood speakers in this picture. Closes fine.
IMG_2491 (resized).jpegQuoted from AMartin56:I would suggest the shooter lane fix sold on this website. Pinball Life also sells a small adhesive metal 'Cliffy' for the area next to the trough eject. I don't personally install anything on my shooter lane.
if the game occasionally ejects two balls at a time into the shooter lane lower the eject strength in the menu.
Jumping into that wireform occasionally happens on mine.
I can't really think of any other must haves that aren't just visually appealing mods.
Take a look at the Abe Flip mod. Your machine may or may not have the shooter rattle issue which it addresses. ChromeCandy has a $20 stainless steel fix for it. Also, if your multiball off the building releases the balls SDTM, there is a great fix by HurryupPinball that installs top of the building to correct that. It is Inexpensive too.
Quoted from DirtyApe:Here is a picture and to me it looked like there is already a Cliffy-like protector installed (or maybe I'm thinking of the wrong thing)?[quoted image]
There is no Cliffy shooter lane protector installed on your machine. His stainless would be quite visible on the left and right of the routed lane cavity. The two parts of his set are shown below
image (resized).jpg
Quoted from vikingerik:Minor problem on the machine I just got. When a ball comes down the wireform returning to the right inlane and reaches the end, it often bounces back up the wireform a few inches instead of falling through right away. Not a problem for gameplay but does throw off my timing. Any suggestions on what to tweak for this?
Can you post a short video of this and also a picture top-down to show a closeup of the affected area?
Quoted from acedanger:Rough design for topper that I’ll 3d print.
[quoted image]
I really like what you are showing, and can only imagine the time it might take to finish the design and then PRINT the thing out in pieces.
Consider where you might want to add some interactive lighting in the design. Simple integration could be a cheap sound-activated controller and a strip of controlled LEDS to change LED modes based on sounds from the game play itself. Take a look at the SP107E with built in sound detector. $8 or so shipped. And a 3-foot strip of WS2812B LEDs is another $8 or so. The SP107E could drive the LED strip placed inside your print and printed in translucent FILAMENT in certain places.
Just a thought...
Quoted from Ty-Arnold:Any idea when the next code update is coming out?
The wave of general maintenance gamecodes for all SPIKE2 machines created GZ V1.05 and was released about 2 weeks ago. Prior to that, V1.04 came out in February. Even with a 6 month dev cycle on gamecode, I wouldn't expect another drop till later in the Summer...
Quoted from Kkoss24:I do not have the splitter .Should I have got one ? I just received the lolly ufo kit ,I think it comes with that .
There are two types of splitters. Stumbler and PBL offer each kind. The first is a mechanical splitter, costs about $25 and simply takes one connector and makes it 4 or 8. That allows you to share the power connector for multiple mods. The issue here is the power itself is still the original supply's power and eats some of the original power budget. This becomes an issue when adding things like the SHAKER and the NEON sign to a machine which draws current from the same place.
The second type of splitter is about $50 (Davey calls his Splitter+) and it has a regulated output and is a 'real power supply'. It has more connectors too, but it doesn't rely on the node-board's power regulators which tend to be fairly constrained after a shaker is attached. This SPLITTER+ (or the PBL equiv) is the way to go!
Quoted from fooflighter:Anyone have their Mechagodzilla coil magnet core not release the balls after a marathon session of playing? Just had some friends over the weekend and after a bunch of play, the balls started sticking to the magnet core. I had this problem before but changed out the balls to Ball Baron Carbon Steel Polaris and it seemed to fix the issue for a while (these were a new set before friends were playing but the problem started on the new set)...
The magnet core was very warm/hot to the touch
Wondering if I need a new coil or there is something funky in the Node 9 board with the 48 V CN 7 feed
Or is the coil just isolated inside the sculpt and heat is just going to happen? Been trying to think of a way to vent the mech with a fan without interfering with the game but the coil is pretty insulated, which is probably part of the issue
Simple test… when the ball is sticking, power the game off. If the ball stays up in the air on the coil, then the balls are magnetized. If the ball releases, the you have a node board driver stuck issue.
Quoted from fooflighter:But this happened on a brand new set of Carbon balls (only played 3 games of 4 players on them) and the magnet coil seemed way way too hot, like burn your finger more than 3 seconds hot.
When you say node board driver stuck issue, would that be a bad transistor, or another physical component or do you mean software related
Thanks
If the balls drop when power is turned off, then you likely have a bad node board driving the coil. Stern will replace if in warranty, you will need to source a new board if out of warranty.
Quoted from Willey:Would be nice to know how many of you have a Godzilla and have not installed playfield protector on it?
MOST people have not installed a playfield protector installed. It's a trade-off. Cost, installation trouble and the actual play of the ball changes. If you were going to route the machine in a busy location for a decade or two, a protector might be worth the trouble to install, but most folks would not install it for a HUO machine.
The capitalist will say this is a self-regulating process. If people are willing to pay the asking price, then the product was successful. If they don’t pay, then the product was a failure. It’s just pure math from Stern’s perspective and they use that math to guide what they do next.
Quoted from screaminr:Fairpoint but it is disappointing to see them make something that looks like it has a lack of passion . The Black Knight topper was awesome and at sub $500 mark .
Everyone was hoping for something really cool .
It might be financially successful but if they had the burning buildings background and a moving Godzilla head , they would have sold 10 times as many .
They could have done so much better if they had wanted .
I agree it’s disappointing. Pinball enthusiasts are driven by passion. Stern is driven by profit. Neither is wrong, but they are not aligned. Now the MAGIC happens when both passion and profit meets and everyone feels like a winner…
Quoted from Jamesays:You buy a piece of glass from a local glass shop and plastic edges from pinball shop and put it together.glass costs about 20 bucks .
Keep your origional and set aside so You can re use at will.
The glass is simple plate (size: 26 x 16-1/2 x 1/8 ), and doesn't even need to be the expensive lead-free type. You'll see that the translite artwork is a thick piece of flexible media held in place by the edge plastic channels alone. If you want to just re-use the factory glass and plastic, it takes 5 minutes to carefully swap, or you can buy a new piece of plate and a set of plastic channels for about $35 all in.
Quoted from BlackBelt:Exactly…like a physical plug to jumper the ‘topper input’? Anyone have a picture of how it’s connected?
It's a software 'jumper'. The topper has a real node-board in it, and the CPU detects that additional node board to enable the additional modes (and controller any animation/integrated machinery the wish to put into a topper). In theory, someone could terminate the RS485 network connector under the playfield with a device that responds to the RS485 protocol with the correct information, but that would take some fancy RS485 snooping to understand their protocol, WHICH IS EXPLICITELY FORBIBBEN in your owner's agreement that ships with the machine.
Quoted from Scala:I'm going to be getting a new premium next month. This is my first machine, and I was hoping for some guidance for things that I should buy right away.
So far, I've ordered:
- New rubbers
- New coil stops
- New balls
- Playfield wax
Anything else that I might be missing?
Those items are optional 'individual taste' kind of things. You might consider some kind of shooter lane protection if you had to prioritize something that would protect the wood, and the game also has some great integration for a shaker which you can get from PBL for $110 or so these days. They rest of the stuff you'll see is all fun as time permits. (The Stumblor Neon is no longer sold, but you might find a re-sale one from time to time, and a handful of variations of sideblades are available from lots of sources, which expands the visual experience a bit. If you get frustrated with the SDTM off the building roof, there are several fix mods you can install. Lastly, the shooter lane rattle affects some people and a plastic and stainless version of Abe's Flip mod can be found v arious sources).
In all cases, just play the thing! Enjoy!
Quoted from SiN13:Hi, just joined the club today. Game plays great right out of the box but I am getting this error:
“GAME VALIDATION ERROR:#5 1:39 UPDATE SD CARD”
This is my first Stern, I’m surprised to be seeing this right out of of the box on a new machine. I updated via Wi-Fi to 1.07 but the error remains. What do I need to do here? Do a full image rewrite to the card? Get a new SD card and if so what size and speed? Thanks for the help.
[quoted image]
Its a standard 16GB high quality card. I would suggest removing the SD card, then re-inserting it, then try to update the card via Intenet Connected (if available) or write an SDCARD externally using the instructions at https://sternpinball.com/support/sd-cards/
Quoted from BW1029:I also just learned my premium will be arriving soon and am wondering about art vs mirror vs just leaving as is. Any thoughts appreciated!
Leaving it as-is is probably a missed opportunity to expand the field of view. IMHO something should fill up those blank walls. That said, there are a half dozen different versions of side blades from multiple sources... each appeals to a certain audience. Some folks like the Stern original, but I went with the Wizmods set, and Tilt has a good option as well. It's really up to you....
Quoted from Zen_Monkey:https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1363-cheko-s-shop
Cheko’s shop is Sleal
I installed his UFO and it is an amazing quality mod. Doesn't have any of the surface irregularity and artifacts of many of the 3D printed mods available. It is easy to install and looks amazing. The existing RGB light shines through the dome just fine. He has two sizes that can be installed in place of the factory. I went with the smaller version which is comparable to the factory sizing to not get too ahead of myself...
(I think he makes them in batches of 20 or so every few months, so just drop him a note and let him know your are insterested if/when he makes another batch)
Quoted from VeggiePin:I just found out there is a code update for GZ. This question has probably already been answered in previous posts but I'll ask anyway. Is it primarily designed to adapt for the topper, which I don't have? Is it worth installing if i do not plan on getting a topper?
Thanks!
There is no cost, so not sure why you would skip it. The release notes will tell you the difference between the version you HAVE and the latest version they OFFER at no cost. Read it here: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/f002.backblazeb2.com_file_gamecode_godzilla_LE_1.07-README.txt
Two 1.07 items catch my eye (assuming you are already at 1.05):
- Loops - fixed an issue where Rodan scoring for loops was incorrectly being multiplied
- Godzilla vs. Titanosaurus - moved mode instruction text up a little bit to be consistent with other modes
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:I'm still at 1.04, mainly because by the time I'd heard about 1.05 there were a billion complaints about a repeated call-out to some friend of the programmers(?) that a lot of people were waiting to have go away... Has that been mitigated in 1.07? Haven't heard any recent comments about that...
There were ALOT of changes since 1.04. IMHO, You might want to allow the latest code to be updated to your machine....
Quoted from PanzerKraken:Star Wars has been in production for 5+ years now.
Stern doesn't give out numbers, no one really knows these things.
Fair to say it's 'one of' their biggest selling games to be sure.....
Quoted from Fredouil:Hi all, I need your help, I’ve planed to build my own topper, I’ve normally found the node who pilot the Godzilla topper, I think , but I need to know the wiring of it, if someone could have a look inside the manual if there’s wiring diagram and do a copy for me It would help me a lot or if it’s not to complicated to open and take a picture of the node inside the topper, thank u so much for your help
ScottyC did a teardown and parts list of the JP topper. It's based on terminating the RS485 network cable into a 520-6976-72 node board. In theory, you can put whatever you want behind the node board for a custom version. See his post here: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/which-spike2-games-have-a-node-board-in-the-topper#post-6664552
So I suspect for the 'hackers' that don't need the topper BUT want to trick the machine into thinking its there, and opening up reserved mode/features only for owners of the topper, I believe the $129 node board would satisfy the topper checking logic they use.
Disclaimer: The license Stern supplies with your machine explicitely prohibits this type of re-engineering work.
Quoted from toro1966:You wouldn't have a link to the actual item - would you. I just searched around fro about 30 minutes with no luck.
It is very nice and factory-looking to be sure. I went through the Search process, create account, checkout... Looks like it will be $80 shipped to USA (shipping is the same cost at the item itself). Uggg. Perhaps the Chrome Candy $20 stainless add-on one is not a bad alternative for USA folks.
By the time you add Stumblor's Tokyo Neon, SpeakerLED's Flaming Frames, and the Heatray backbox, it's pretty likely you'll need a cabinet-node style CN11 driven power supply like PBL's ( PBL-600-0002-00 ) or Stumblors "Splitter+". The Stumblor "plus" can supply 5amps, the PBL can supply 3amps, which sounds like alot, but not really for active mods like these three.... worth you while to get one. Both run about $60 shipped, Stumblor's is out of stock for the moment but he has a list.
Quoted from RumRunner9:You have me beat on mods, but at least I have my pins situated correctly. Lol
[quoted image]
Funny how many people have a JP and GZ machine together. It's like they are a bundled standard set.
Quoted from Skatewake:also a TZ and Indi....
Absolutely, TZ and IJ are another great 90s BWS 'set'. I think a bunch of folks had "TOTAN and FH" as a set as well.
Quoted from GuiitarMan:I've had my Premium since last Monday. All of a sudden my magna grab has stopped working. The switch is reading hits perfectly, the magnet just isn't energizing anymore. I checked connections and everything is snug and secure. It's not a rogue switch hit because I have to trap up a ball and not hit anything in order to get through the destruction jackpot animation in order to progress the building. Anyone have any ideas?
Use diagnostics for that coil and see if it energizes with the glass off. Sounds like a coil winding break, a broken harness wire, or driver transistor problem.
Report back what you find.
Quoted from Wanderers:In the network selection in settings on my FF I have the first picture showing that iam connected to Wi-Fi and the speed of it.
In the same selection on my GZ I am struggling to find if iam connected to Wi-Fi and it seems to be showing an error with RJ45 node bus cable also my QR reader is flickering not solid like on FF.
Is this why I can see if iam connected to the internet ???
Any advice would my much appreciated Thankyou
[quoted image][quoted image]
Try reseated the Rj45 path cable that starts with one end under the apron at the QR reader, and the other end connects to a node board under the playfield. The QR reader is definitely not being found.
Quoted from jrcmlc:I have to do JP and fish tales this week, I'll probably pull the PF out of JP as it's so easy but FT will be pf in, slide down the side. I did them dry as well.
I have posted my process a few times. Dry method, but I basically leave a foot or so of both ends of the backing material in place, to allow me to easily place the side blade without it sticking too much. Once I position it properly (up and down, side to side, tilt, etc) then I can press the middle section gently to stick the blade freeing my hands, and then peel that remaining backing off the ends and final position and stick each end by hand to complete it.
Quoted from jrcmlc:Mark...so you're using the center as the sticky part, pivoting there and then doing the ends if I understand you right...? seems like a solid idea. I went with "peel it all off, stick it correctly, lightly over the "hole" and "bolt" inside the cabinet rear, then orient the top edge, then smooth stick rest" lol
Yes, the center section is exposed first…. Making it much easier to position the whole blade first and THEN stick it down!
Quoted from Markharris2000:Yes, the center section is exposed first…. Making it much easier to position the whole blade first and THEN stick it down!
Quoted from Gnassel:Sometimes it takes the VUK 2 or 3 tries to shoot the ball from the house to the roof.
I had already tried different strengths in the settings, but without success
is there a tip?
The BLDG VUK mechanism seems to have a bit of a design angle issue, which can be mostly resolved by tilting the top of the mechanism back 1/16 of an inch or so. Basically you add two #6 washers to the top two attachment screws of the mechanism, and one washer to each of the middle two screws, (and also loosening the bottom screen just a hint to allow it to tilt.) Scan this thread and you'll see discussions about the washer fix, easy to do if you lift the back of the playfield out of the cabinet using playfield jacks or similiar.
Quoted from Clovenhuf:Damn bridge coil burned up on me, of course during a billion point game. Machine was making a knocking sound under the playfield, (the bridge mech seizing) and then smoke started piling up under the glass, (coil jacket melting). I immediately opened the door at that point and took a look under the hood. My machine is still under warranty, how do you go about setting up a ticket with Stern?
Thanks,
[quoted image]
Open a ticket to document the DATE of your problem.
sp1 (resized).jpg
Quoted from MasterOnion5:WHERE does it go? I hadn't found it yet!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/475#post-7714404
Quoted from mikespins:Picked up Freddy's shooter lane fix and it's great! Tested with 20 plunges and the ball plunged perfectly 20 times.
https://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/index.php?f=3&q=3475053479&lang=e&lnge=1
[quoted image][quoted image]
FOMO got to me today. I plunked down the $85USD to have Freddie send me the shooter lane rail. Not sure I need it, but haven't spent enough money on pinball mods this week I guess...
Just listed a Mezel Maser Cannon which is left over from my machine. Brand new, never installed.
Quoted from Mully911:Hello all,
Purchased a Premium over the w/e and unboxed it. I have played some games with friends and have some questions. I have read as much as I can find on here but still have these questions. The threads I found do not have definitive answers. My apology in advance!
1) GZ multi ball- are the balls released from the top of the Drake supposed to go SDTM or not????? If so what is recommended to fix it. I saw adjust screws on top or add some mod. What u say?
2) On several games the ball got stopped and hung up exiting the building, I believe by the building itself. Any help will be nice.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-prem-le-building-mod-multi-ball-sdtm-fix
Quoted from bmunn1:I just got a Godzilla premium in house thanks to pinball project charity! I started to install the speaker lights mod and I noticed what appears to be a loose grounding strap. There was a screw loose in the box when unboxing. Where should this ground strap go? It’s not very long.
[quoted image]
Kinda makes me wonder how something so obvious (and needed) made it through Stern's final assembly and test on their production line.
Quoted from SiN13:I got my metal shooter lane fix from from Freddy's in Germany today. I haven't installed it yet but my question for anyone who has made the switch from the 3D printed one to this metal one, what does it take to get the old one off and remove the adhesive without causing any damage?
I never had a shooter lane rattle issue... No sure why.
Quoted from Bohdi:I need some input here regarding upgraded speakers. So I added the Kicker 4" backbox speakers months ago, forget exactly what model # And recently just added the PBL Boom Boom 8" cabinet speaker, both 4 ohm. The kickers definitely helped the backbox, but this new cabinet speaker just doesn't sound any better. How are you guys adjusting your sound? Just curious what settings work best. Is there much more adjust than the EQ? I've also heard mixed reviews of having the settings set to 4 vs 8 ohm. Assume it should be 4. Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Good choice on the Kicker CSC's folr the backbox, and I found the Boom3K PBL speaker to sound better in cabinet with 8-ohms set, rather than set to the 4-ohms that the speaker is rated.
Quoted from Npbassman:Hey everyone,
I'm going to be joining the club with a Pro tomorrow! I read the sticky posts and am going to start going through the 481 pages here but in the meantime, any tips for a NIB Pro owner such as...
- Optimal pitch? 6.5 or something else?
- Any known tweaks that should be done right away out of the box?
- 'Got to have' mods to start off? I already have the telsa towers, building and bridge on my wishlist. Also already ordered mirror blades.
Thanks!
Shaker?
(And when you add the shaker, put a drop of BLUE Loctite on each of the four threads to keep it put. Blue is the removable type. HarborFreight sells it for $2)
Quoted from zahner:I am just going through the same thing. Look within this topic at posting 24001 and beyond for some ideas. One person recommends a shaker motor board for Spooky pins like Scooby Doo, although his pictures of the board looks different to me than what the pinball life site (the sellers of the board) show - so, I don’t know about that one? Other than that, I tried the nylon tie and 90 degree suggestions (you’ll see when you look) to no avail. Honestly thinking about getting rid of it if cannot remedy. Hopefully we’ll both get some other suggestions or perhaps one of the prior suggestions will work for you. Best of luck
The pinball life board will significantly lower the rate that the shaker spins. It is a high wattage ceramic resistor that lowers the voltage to the motor. (The resistor dissipates some of the energy as heat). If you want to reduce the intensity of the shaker, I would definitely try it…
Quoted from barndawg:One of the plastics on my bridge is quite loose; unfortunately, it's one in the back. Does anyone have good instructions for how to remove the bridge assembly enough to access them?
Is there anything I can do to avoid having to get back there again? E.g. use locktite, better screws, etc...?
Loctite BLUE is removeable and worth the $2 at Harbor Freight for screws like that.
Quoted from Npbassman:Super simple. Basically plug the shaker into the gadget and then patch the other end into the node board. The only iffy thing for me is they want you to screw it using four screws into the bottom of the cab. Right now I have it loose but I'm going to use some adhesive circuitboard stand ups so I don't have to drill into my cabinet.
I went onto AliExpress and ordered a handful of 1 ohm wirewound aluminum resistors which have mounting holes built in to the aluminum. I got 4 of them shipped for under $5. I am thinking if I like the reduced shaker startup feel, I can just wire into the shaker in series with the motor and then two wood screws to keep it in place near the shaker.
Quoted from ShineSpark:Hi everyone,
Hit the magna grab during play, heard and felt a thud, and checked in the cabinet. This had fallen off. It's a large hex nut, about 1/2 inch deep, diameter is about 1 to 1.5 inches.
Does anyone know what this is for?
Thanks as always!
Evan
[quoted image]
As said previously, that 3/4" nut screws onto the magna post from the underside of the playfield. One suggestion: Apply just a hint of mechanical torque to the nut when screwing it on to make sure it's doesn't become loose again. Doesn't need to be crazy tight, you just don't want it falling off again. If you want to be safest, use some Loctite PURPLE 222 on the thread. It's low strength and fully/easily removeable with a wrench. If you have BLUE 242 Loctite (Harbor Freight $2), that works too, albeit it will be a little tighter to remove. DO NOT USE RED 262/272 LOCTITE! You will hate yourself in the future if you even need to remove it.
Quoted from WillM:I'm looking for 2ea 4' extension cables for this... see photos
I'm rerouting one of my saucers from the playfield to the topper. (Was 3 on the play field, now 2 + 1 on the topper.) I have a Y split cable for the topper saucer as they're all connected together for scync'd effects.
Just need 2 extension cable to make it all work.
Any ideas where to find something like this?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
2 week delivery or so...
OR...
https://www.amazon.com/BTF-LIGHTING-pairs-Female-connectors-WS2801/dp/B01DC0KKJU/ref=sr_1_54
But you'll have to splice the ends together. faster delivery...
Quoted from jrcmlc:Can someone confirm that this is the right part # for the coil stops on spike 2 Sterns?
515-6308-01
That is the right part number, and many folks will direct you to PBL to purchase THEIR version of it, which seem to be built better and last longer.
https://www.pinballlife.com/flipper-coil-stop-for-sternsega.html
Quoted from Acronymicon:I am determined to join this club this week, but I was hoping for a little advice.
Have the option for a NIB pro for 7k or a "freight damaged" Premium for 8.8 The damage is a small scratch on the LCD screen, and the shooter not making good contact with the ball so the "playfield brackets are a little off" but the corners are square.
Im pretty handy, but have limited experiece with newer games. It sounds like it took a fall? The art is ok.
WWYD?
$8800 seems far too high for a machine that already exhibits 'hidden damage'. The LCD screen swap is easy. $250 and you are done (or half of that if you want to try the OEM INNOLUX G156BGE-L01 screen ). But the bracket alignment issue hints of other things that might be amiss that you will find months down the road and you'll be dealing with forever.
Quoted from Livin:Hey guys, looking forward to my GZ Premium arriving mid December. What parts are needed to connect a subwoofer? And any recommendations on a woofer? Thanks!
Pinnovators has an external adapter kit if you really want to (even though many people simply replace the cabinet speaker with something like the Boss CXX8)
PINsub SPIKE Subwoofer Kit for Stern SPIKE, SPIKE2 Systems
Reference: 330.041
VENDOR: PINNOVATORS
Regular price $35.00
pinsub-adapter (resized).jpgQuoted from BrokenChair:Are they still adding updates of this game or it’s pretty much finished?
The GZ game is only two years old, and could easily still get a feature-oriented code drop or two. Consider the JP machine, which is now FOUR years old... and it got beefy code drops AFTER two years: 2.5 years in, 1.06 IC and HT, 3 years in, 1.07(secret), 1.08 and 1.09 bug fixes, then almost 4 years in, 1.10/1.11/1.12 coop and game modes added plus bug fixes.
I suspect the GZ code base quality, along with product scheduled of new batches of GZ machines, along with a few designer 'to-do list items' might influence the decision to create a new code drop at some point. There is still a number of things to add. Maybe new code next spring or summer? (Or maybe this is wishful thinking?)
Either way, its a great machine with the current very stable code.
Quoted from jid:There are some wifi routers that use more advanced protocols than the code in our pins. I have had similar issues with wifi thermostats, for example. If you change the security protocol at the router level it can fix this. WPA3, for example, which comes on new Xfinity devices isn’t compatible with some still new but not as new wifi devices.
*geeking out OFF*
The problem? So if the cheap Stern adapter only has the ability to use WPA2 for instance, and the home router is defaulted to WPA3-only, then the connection fails.
Quoted from Bacondaddy:I had this problem on a different Spike 2 machine (AIQ), and it turned out to be a faulty Power Distribution Board. Had to replace that to fix the issue.
There is a variant of the PD board without the interlock circuit in the upper left corner so no way to sense door open. Perhaps you have one of those installed in error?
Quoted from tscottn:congrats! Mine will be here this Tuesday, however my wife is out of town until next Saturday and she made me promise not to even set it up until she comes back.. ugh. its gonna be a long week!
"Set it Up". Does installing a bunch of mods count? Seems like it would be a "Time Saver" to get your mods going before she arrives back...
Quoted from Junglist:I just had the right inlane rollover (magna grab trigger) switch die and I've probably only got less than 500 games on this. Is that typical? Or am I just unlucky. :S Any tips on install? Looks pretty straightforward.
Easy fix. $6 and 10 minutes to solder the two wires and unscrew/rescrew it.
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=500-9935-04
Quoted from Puffdanny:You underestimate my lack of soldering skills
LOL. That microswitch has solder tabs rather than screw terminals. Perhaps another pinsider in the area could give you a hand in swapping it? It really is a 5 minute solder job.
Quoted from Whistles:You and I have likely been soldering for a great deal of years but I see this all the time when someone tells someone on the internet to go solder something on. A 15 min class (online or otherwise) is probably a good starter since there is material safety stuff people need to learn before they just go and do it. I get that here we kinda assume these skills but there are so many new people into this hobby that may not have had experience with them.
Agreed. I know the pain of using my finger to clean the tip of a 725 degree iron tip, and the smell of rosin-core going up my nose!
Quoted from Nicoli125:On a side note does anyone know what this yellow flasher dome is called? It's on the left bottom hand of the pinball and I would like to change it to blue or green.[quoted image]
https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-mini-light-domes-with-screw-tabs.html
Quoted from bazou:Hello guys!
Question for the more veteran than me, meaning 95% at least of you all.
Unfortunately I see the first significant wear on my playfield here
Only about 600 games with pretty short ball time, and regular cleaning.
I just changed the balls, cleaned everything and waxed the playfield.
Anything else to consider to avoid things getting worst?
Thanks for your help.
[quoted image]
That spot seems to be more like a tiny gouge than a wear spot... like something hard impacted the surface. In any case, since it is so small and contained, you can easily look at the playfield restoration note. It's mostly a black touchup, with a hint of brown above it. Easy colors to match when such a tiny spot is seen. A dab of clear on top of the work and you'll be good to go! 1) Use lots of light when making the repair, 2) use a tiny 'pinpooint' tip hair brush for each color to avoid contaminating the colors, 3) allow to dry between colors so you won't get bleed, 4) clear after it's all dry, thin layer first, allow to dry, then another, 5) consider putting a small piece of clear mylar over the area, which won't interfere with anothing else near the saucer.
Quoted from kangaroobbq:Noob question, I turned my machine on today and have no sound. I’ve got a pinwoofer amp, the light isn’t coming on so guessing no power. Everything seems to be connected ok. Also when a ball drains it’s not registering and doing a ball search. Any tips/idea’s would be greatly appreciated thanks.
they seem like two separate problems, possible in the same physical front area of the cabinet. The Pinwoofer must have power, so check back on the power adapter and connection if something is loose. Use a meter if you have one to find the AC power feed, and then the power coming into the Pinwoofer box. And while you have the playfield lifted, check/reseat the connectors in trough area, as the opto pair are not connected for some reason, and may have been bumped when the Pinwoofer was installed . Both sound like straight forward fixes.
Quoted from VinnyBlanc:As someone who doesn’t have clearance for toppers, would be nice if you could just pay for an “unlock” code for topper specific content (without topper installed:dongle to spoof it perhaps). I know stern wants their money, which is fine, but I shouldn’t have to plug topper in and leave it on floor next to machine.
You probably can just hang a node board at the end of the network cable and bury it inside the backbox. I seem to remember that someone posted the Stern part number of the topper node board.
Quoted from WizardsCastle:Should the ferittes on the topper connectors be right to the cable?
The one one the RJ45 is super loose, and I can easily slide it on the cable.
Is this correct?
You should be fine. The Ferrite Beads don't need to contact the cable to be effective. They simply filter high freq noise from the cable that passes thru it.
Quoted from pinmister:So another pinsider posted this in another thread but I thought it was really great to watch if you are a fan of Godzilla pinball. Really interesting seeing how the game came into fruition(Love the Well Walker/Mecha white wood).
Godzilla really is the whole package and one of the best modern games. Thanks to Keith and all involved-a true masterpiece.
What a great video!!! Really, it captures the emotion and passion that Keith and his team put into GZ. How they made choices on preserving the 'feel' of the original movie and which key elements needed to be in the game. A good 5 minutes to see what really goes on behind the scenes of the guys imagining every detail and then figuring out how to do it.
Quoted from Mleiter:Hey guys. I think the switch that has been giving my problems off and on has finally gone out completely. This is the scoop shot switch that activates the Kaju battle. I did a switch test and I can get other switches to register but no that one. How hard is it to replace that switch? It looks pretty easy; 2 screws and 2 wires...but is there any programming and software I need to change when doing this? I am new to pinball. This is my first machina and i've only had it about 2 months.
You got it. Very simple... but don't drop any of those tiny parts in the process!!!! Physical swap only, no software or anything else required.
For anyone still wrestling with the shooter lane issue and looking at a fix like Abe_Flip or equiv, The Chrome Candy folks just added a full metal protector that runs the length of the lane and meets the existing metal side rail perfectly. It screws in and held in place under the bubble level and covers the whole side rail.
(No affiliation to the CC guys, I just know when I was looking last spring it was hard to find something available easily in the USA)
Quoted from barndawg:This looks basically identical to the Freddy's shooter lane fix which works really well.
That said, neither the Abe Flips or Freddy's fixed my skill shot - the solution for me was to fully reinstall the shooter assembly making sure it was centered.
I just went through a full shooter alignment in a JP and not a bad refresher/reminder on checking that alignment once in awhile. The rubber shooter tip should always be hitting the ball dead-center when its at reast in the routed lane. That helps tremendously with launching the ball straight, and in many cases you won't even need the flip-fix or equiv. But I like the look of the full lane stainless steel, so not a bad mod to put on your list...
Quoted from Whifflebat:Has anyone installed Stumblor's Tokyo Neon Sign on a recently built machine (mine is a Premium from the latest run in early Dec.)? I'm at my wits end trying to decouple of the sign power connector, basically step 1 of the install (the blue circle in the pic). It simply won't budge after a ton of manual wiggling and even using needle nose pliers. I tried using a small screwdriver to depress the sides while disconnecting, but no go (it was very awkward even with 2 sets of hands). Any suggestions?
[quoted image]
It's a known thing. I know I even read a installation note from Stumblor (or someone else on the thread) about that very issue. Odd, because it's just a standard nylon Molex connector, but seems to universally stump everyone that tries to open it... at first! Patience is a virtue!
Quoted from northerndude:Just stumbled on this tiny nut in the cab of my GZ
And the end of a pen for reference
I thought maybe the side of a switch, usually those skinny bolts go through a switch. But the switches I see have a different black end
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Looks like a #2 machine nut, typically found holding microswitches to their mounting brackets. Color of the screw and nut can vary, so don’t rule that out. Did you check every microswitch?
Quoted from Lermods:Hard-to-Find Fastener 014973315160 Slotted Round Machine Screws, 6-32 x 2-1/2, Piece-20, zinc https://a.co/d/45Kj7vm
If you are in a jam to get something fast, most bigger ACE Hardware stores will have molly/toggle bolts used for drywall. They are long bolts that have a spring loaded leaf that opens up inside a wall to hold something on the wall. THOSE smaller sized molly bolts can be found with 6-32 and can be found in length up to 3 inches in some stores. (You just throw the spring loaded piece away). Look there in the wall-fastener section.
Quoted from Bunzy:Hey everyone. First post and first pin owner. Randomly just decided to take plunge and buy Godzilla
Wife and I love the machine but noticed a plastic piece raised in the back right side, the plastic end doesn’t sit flush. Is this supposed to be like this?
Also my leaf switches on flippers look and feel diff. The left flipper is a double flipper so I know it’s made diff but button feels looser than right flipper button. When looking inside the leaf has a bend and constant pressure on right side, where the left leaf is not tensed before pressing in the button
Is that normal?
Sent a couple of right side flipper and then two of the left, notice the bend in the right side
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Welcome first timer! One of the magical properties of plastic is it bends. Unfortunately Stern and the rest of the bunch COUNT on this flexibility when they design their playfields. They don't worry about a 1/8 or so different between the top of a post and the gimmick or toy next to it. They simple screw it down to both and call it a day, even if on the engineer's mechanical drawing pad it shows that the two surfaces are actually at two different heights. That 'bending' will take care of it! In some cases the attachment surfaces are the same, but due to overtightening of a screw, it deforms the plastic in some areas. Bottom line: It's normal and nothing you should worry about. Instead, focus on playing the game and if you get really crazy, think about adding a few plastic protectors under the plastic for things like kicker or bumper areas. The silkscreen plastic will take direct hits from the ball and over time, you might see one or more of those plastic break or crack. (Replacement screened plastics become less available over time, and you might have to buy a whole set in a few years after the manufacturer stops production of a title... if you can even find the set! Clear protection plastic pieces can be found for every major pin and installation really helps long term)
Plastic is an amazing thing, huh?
Quoted from JustEverett:Do you have a link? I can't seem to find these.
https://www.aliexpress.com/store/1101771730?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.71bdKOqYKOqY6u
The distribution board is not a very high tech item, but it is surprising how poorly it performs. Lots of capacitor and door interlock component reports of failures and swaps. I am hoping Spike 3 has engineered a whole new set of boards, including the PDB...
Quoted from mostater:This is the way to go to fix the squeaky shaker... reverse the direction. Cheap fix. Order some other stuff at the same time and hopefully save some on shipping.
The shaker motor brushes deform and get polished as the get used. Eventually that deforming causes noise as the pressure of the brushes rubbing along the spinning shafts changes and the lubricant that was applied to the brushes at the factory is dispersed. The PBL $5 board reverses the direction of the spin, which increases the pressure a bit, and eliminates the squeak.... for awhile. I suspect the squeak will return at some point down the road, when the PBL board will need to be removed to reverse the direction again and get some additional squeak-free months.
Quoted from bwalter:That's a very likely scenario. In particular, when a whole chain of Node boards fails like that, it just might be the Ethernet cable[s] connecting them to the main logic board in the backbox, or the Ethernet cables linking the boards together. Just reseat those connectors and see if it all goes away.
Since they are all failing, I would start with the RJ45 cable connector in the boxbox connecting to the CPU NODE board first. That cable being dislodged would take the whole chain of node boards down.
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:I'm leaning towards buying a premium in the near future. For the people who have owned a premium for a while, are there any known common issues or recurring problems with the more complex mechs that aren't an issue on the pro version?
The VUK mechanism is a slight problem on Premiums, but easily addressed. The building itself seems to be mostly reliable, but a few folks have had to play with alignment kind of stuff.
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Any photos to share? I'm trying to visualize what an animated speaker grill would look like... My curiosity is definitely piqued...
Pinsounds website has it listed with pictures. Very cool. $500 cool? Humm, but cool!
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Yeah, when I googled I found an older product similar to the Circus Voltaire in-cab dmd screen product, for use with TZ and others... That looked pretty cool, too!
I think they are no longer making these PinVisions, but it was: 86pixels.com
Quoted from Mully911:If I put a Medieval Madness SE next to my Godzilla SE, do you think the shots and play will be too similar to really justify the cost?
It's kind of like Marvel movies... they all have a similiar world and sets of challenges, but the creative and stories are very different which is why they attract so many ticket buyers. GZ has the building, JP has the TREX ramp, MM has the Castle shot, GOTG has the Groot Mouth, Houdini has the Stage door, etc. Then you have wire ramps that take balls from upper quadrants to lower outlanes. Common to have similiar stuff even if cosmetically different on a modern playfield...
If you like both themes, then get them.
Quoted from badfish981:Easy process to replace the T molding?
Yup. 20-feet of wooden channel, and press-fit plastic T-molding made for that space. Really quite easy....
Quoted from golfergordy:The last few times I removed the glass from my 1978 Mata Hari game, I noticed how much heavier the glass is as compared to more current games. I haven't measured, but I'm sure the glass thickness must be more on the Mata Hari. When buying used glass from someone else's pb game, make sure it's the correct thickness.
It’s possible you had a machine with replacement leaded glass installed in the machine. Leaded glass is far cheaper and usually indistinguishable from the unleaded type unless you look carefully. It actually has a slight green tint in certain lighting conditions, and it really is 50% heavier or so.
Quoted from Nicholastree:Yeah. My pintech (an electrical engineer) took a look at the coin door wiring a few months ago and ruled that - and all other wiring problems - out. A PDB seems 90% the likely problem from what others have said.
There appear to be two versions of the PDB in the backbox. 99.9% of all machines ship with a PDB that includes the coin-door cut-out logic. Very useful when servicing a coin-op machine on-site. BUT, there is a second version of the same board, looks nearly identical, but the upper corner is missing most of the parts. The pads are there, but the components were never populated. This little brother was intended to be used in Home Pin machines, which did not have a coin-door interlock requirements, and there has been at least ONE report of these PDBs accidently finding their was into production machines. Check your board in the backbox to confirm it is in fact the proper 520-8096-00A board with all parts installed.
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:A bit off topic, but last Tuesday my very first new in box pin arrived. It's a Godzilla Premium. I noticed in the menu settings a burn in option. Should I do it?
I recommend you play 25 games... That's your Burn-In! Seriously, the Burn-In option is mostly for Operators to make sure the machine is working before they place a machine on-site. For Home Use, you will be the burn-in yourself when you play it. Anything goes wrong, you can fix it without driving out to the location.
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Fremont, CA