Quoted from CapeCodPin:

Sorry, but A bottle of Rapid Tac is around $6 at the local True Value or Ace. If that's too rich for you, a couple of drops of Dawn dish detergent in a cup of water does the same thing. Either is far easier than lifting a playfield, if trying to do it alone, that is.
I'd gladly pay for Blitz, but no one has any for sale and it's no longer being made.

Quoted from Bublehead:

Ok, me machine started to randomly freeze tonight... restarted twice during bootup before getting to game start, then would lock up after starting a ball, or sometimes when trying to use home team to log in... tried off and on, then reseated CPU cables and cycled the micro SD and memory cards in and out (power off of course). Same lock ups. During last play session earlier in the day, I had to really jostle the machine to free a ball stuck on the orbit flat spot. Machine was still playing then, but I quit because it drained my ball after doing it a second time- on the flat spot but now with "tilt off with coin door" and "coin door ball save" on, it relaunched my ball after I nudged it free just to hit the magnagrab at a glance and sent it SDTM, so I rage quit and shut the machine off. Come back this evening, it wont even play a single ball without locking up... any ideas?

Quoted from BrokenChair:

Sometimes when I hit the left spinner, it will totally reject the shot and the ball will just go backwards and it will not spin. Is it just a part of the game that I have to deal with or is there a problem here? It’s been fine with the glass off with my hand, spinning it…..

It will just hit the spinner, then go back and not fully spin and work correctly. I think it’s just a part of the game, right?

Quoted from bigguybbr:

Sounds like a bad SD card. Burn a fresh one and see if the problem goes away.
https://sternpinball.com/support/sd-cards/

Quoted from Mully911:

Hello All,
I know this has been gone over many many times, but I am still trying to fix/ adjust my shooter rod position to eliminate the rattle plunge when not using full stroke pull back. The Auto plunge also rattles at times....I read all the sticky posts on this but none of them seem to help, I made it worse I think. When adjusting the shooter rod position you can move it L&R and up and down. I adjust it so the rubber tip appears to be contacting the center of the ball but there is no way for me to really tell. Tip in on rod squarely.
Some short plunges attempting to hit the kill shot behind spinner result in a rattle job when the ball hits the back of the scoop protector...So frustrating
I also noticed cracked plastic under the bridge...what to do?
Please help!

Quoted from Bublehead:

Ok, just to be sure, there are two memory cards on the CPU, a microSD and a SD... not sure which of these two you are referencing, the SD looks to hold game code, by it's sticker, but not sure what is on the micro SD card.
Can someone explain the difference between these two, and has the micro SD ever failed and needed replaced? Where do you get that image? Is the symptom of crashing the SD card failing or micro SD card?

Quoted from Mully911:

Hello All,
I know this has been gone over many many times, but I am still trying to fix/ adjust my shooter rod position to eliminate the rattle plunge when not using full stroke pull back. The Auto plunge also rattles at times....I read all the sticky posts on this but none of them seem to help, I made it worse I think. When adjusting the shooter rod position you can move it L&R and up and down. I adjust it so the rubber tip appears to be contacting the center of the ball but there is no way for me to really tell. Tip in on rod squarely.
Some short plunges attempting to hit the kill shot behind spinner result in a rattle job when the ball hits the back of the scoop protector...So frustrating
I also noticed cracked plastic under the bridge...what to do?
Please help!

Quoted from tbaum:

Definitely get Freddy's shooter lane fix. I got it and have had nothing but smooth plunges since, and haven't changed anything else on my machine.

Quoted from barndawg:

The Freddy’s shooter lane fix is great and recommended, but for me what really solved the problem (okay, in addition to the Freddy’s) was reinstalling my shooter. For whatever reason it just wasn’t properly lined up when I got my machine.

Quoted from Green-Machine:

Have you used a shooter lane fix of some sort? PM sent

Quoted from Mully911:

I remember reading somewhere that when your down to your last ball on one of the multi-balls, if you press the action button you get 1 more ball? Is this true? When and how is it done>

Quoted from VinnyBlanc:

if you have the Anguiris team up (add a ball) this would work by hitting the lockdown bar button. Does not have to be your last ball though.

Quoted from Baggerman:

if you wait till last ball though, you can restart the whole multiball not just add 1 ball... give it a try!

Quoted from Mully911:

Thanks!!

Quoted from Bublehead:

Ok, just to be sure, there are two memory cards on the CPU, a microSD and a SD... not sure which of these two you are referencing, the SD looks to hold game code, by it's sticker, but not sure what is on the micro SD card.
Can someone explain the difference between these two, and has the micro SD ever failed and needed replaced? Where do you get that image? Is the symptom of crashing the SD card failing or micro SD card?

Quoted from barndawg:

This was the post/diagram that helped me:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/269#post-7066823
There might be others up in the Key Posts at the top of this page.

Quoted from Baggerman:

if you wait till last ball though, you can restart the whole multiball not just add 1 ball... give it a try!

Quoted from Mully911:

Thanks guys, can you explain more? I am not a seasoned player.

Quoted from Mully911:

I remember reading somewhere that when your down to your last ball on one of the multi-balls, if you press the action button you get 1 more ball? Is this true? When and how is it done>

Quoted from Mully911:

Thanks guys, can you explain more? I am not a seasoned player

Quoted from KJL:

I would say most stern games have an add a ball feature so to do well you need to learn what it is for every multi ball of every game.
If used during a multi ball it will add a ball. It will also restart the multi ball if used when you drain down to single ball.
GZ has several ways to add a ball including Anguirus at the action button. But so does AC/DC if you’ve left one shot from a mode uncollected and have a VIP pass. Great info to learn for every game

Quoted from Brombomb:

You can use your right flipper to toggle these lights, while their blinking, before shooting the scoop.

Quoted from Syco54645:

So on my premium the bridge plastics hit each other when the bridge is moving. The front was easy enough to adjust but how do I get at the back? Two of the screws are completely covered by the metal bracket, the other two are visible but no real way to actually get a tool on them. The only way I can see to do it is remove the entire assembly, not really looking forward to that.

Quoted from junkyard:

If you use a real long screw driver you can get to three of them. The fourth you gotta lift the bridge up to get at it barely, or loosen the mechanism.

Quoted from Syco54645:

I do not see how that would be possible, the screws near the pivot point are completely covered by the metal bracket. I will give it another look later and see if I can get at them with a longer screw driver.

Quoted from John_C:

I replaced the four bridge plastic pieces with new stainless steel pieces (available from Chrome Candy). Accessing that PIA screw so you can lock it down will take a little work, but here's what you gotta do:
1. You will have to raise the playfield in such a fashion that you have access to the back of the bridge assembly. Pull the playfield out so that the rubber on the service rails rests on the lock bar receiver. I then used a couple of strong zip-ties to tie the rails to the lock bar receiver so it would not slide. Raise the back of the playfield out of the machine and use a broomstick / dowel to rest the playfield out of the cabinet. See image 1.
2. You will now need to remove four 6-32 screws. The first of these is on the back side of the bridge. To access it the bridge must be lifted upwards. In the pic below, a small towel is being used to hold it in the up position which moves the plastic arm away from the screw. To remove this screw, it is necessary to use a 5/16” wrench to keep the piece on the other side from rotating. See image 2.
3. See image 3. Remove these 3 screws from the front of the bridge. It is not necessary to remove the C-clip.
4. You should now be able to lift and rotate the end of the bridge assembly so that the PIA screw can be accessed. See image 4.
Hope this helps.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from John_C:

I replaced the four bridge plastic pieces with new stainless steel pieces (available from Chrome Candy). Accessing that PIA screw so you can lock it down will take a little work, but here's what you gotta do:
1. You will have to raise the playfield in such a fashion that you have access to the back of the bridge assembly. Pull the playfield out so that the rubber on the service rails rests on the lock bar receiver. I then used a couple of strong zip-ties to tie the rails to the lock bar receiver so it would not slide. Raise the back of the playfield out of the machine and use a broomstick / dowel to rest the playfield out of the cabinet. See image 1.
2. You will now need to remove four 6-32 screws. The first of these is on the back side of the bridge. To access it the bridge must be lifted upwards. In the pic below, a small towel is being used to hold it in the up position which moves the plastic arm away from the screw. To remove this screw, it is necessary to use a 5/16” wrench to keep the piece on the other side from rotating. See image 2.
3. See image 3. Remove these 3 screws from the front of the bridge. It is not necessary to remove the C-clip.
4. You should now be able to lift and rotate the end of the bridge assembly so that the PIA screw can be accessed. See image 4.
Hope this helps.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Quoted from VinnyBlanc:

I originally went with the “Abe Flips” plastic shooter lane fix for Godzilla. It did provide some improvement on reducing rattle during plunges. However, this full length, stainless steel replacement is even better. I got it from Chrome Candy. Highly recommend it…
I may not even need to install the playfield alignment brackets that I ordered now. Mine shipped with neither installed.
[quoted image]

Quoted from bwalter:

Thanks for mentioning this, ‘cuz the Abe Flips mod didn’t really help very much. Looks verrrry similar to the one you installed, though?

Quoted from HighVoltage:

I intended to release this shortly after my other Godzilla DMCS mods but then got distracted developing the Foo Fighters DMCS Save Post. I finally got back to this and am releasing it now.
This is the Godzilla DMCS Backbox Light Kit with animated and interactive effects. It lets you choose the attract and gameplay modes independently. In this demo the attract mode is set to "Animated Attract Sequence" and the game mode is set to "Dim with Interactive Effects". There are other modes to choose from such as "Dim Static" or "Bright Static". There are at least 9 in game effects triggered by play events, including rising flames, and streaming heatray (which I forgot to activate but it's similar to the one shown in the attract mode at the start).
More details in the GZ DMCS mods thread if you want to get in on the January special:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/godzilla-dmcs-mods-xilien-saucer-heatray-diverter-burning-building#post-7297735

Quoted from math08:

I assume this is for the Pro only?

Quoted from Bublehead:

Ok, to update my recently built premium problems... there are some things they are aware of...
If your recently built GZ premium has a building entrance opto that has failed for any reason, they think they might know why and will adress it if you call support. They have a couple of recommendations that depend on your symptoms and how they failed. Call and put in a ticket.
If you are getting random lockups, turn off the power, remove the micro SD card from the CPU board, (NOT the SD card, which is physically bigger and holds the game code image) and restore power. Does it boot and play now? If so, replace the micro SD card with a blank, new micro SD memory card, the same size as the one you removed, and at least one with a minimum Class 10 speed rating. No need to format it, it will be detected and formated when you turn on the machine. The micro SD card is scratchpad storage for Insider Connect communication, it is designed as replaceable scratchpad memory that gets written to and read from during IC communications and instead of using expensive ram, or the game code SD card, they opted for cheap uSD memory so if read/write cycles wear it out after a while, operators can restore IC communications by simply swapping in a new memory card. Now if they would have just used a better supplier of micro SD cards...
And put in a call and a ticket... they will not probably spend that extra $0.05 for a better uSD card until they find more than 15% - 20% failure rate, so lets tell them were to stick the latest batch of uSD's, shall we?

Quoted from Bunzy:

How would I know if the building entrance opto is not working

Quoted from VinnyBlanc:

Just replaced my first Power Distribution Board (on Godzilla). I was having an issue where the coin door interlock was not working (cutting 48v power). I obviously started with swapping the interlock switch first and that didn’t work. Did some googling and I saw people in the Jurassic Park group on pinside has the same issue and swapping the Power distribution board worked. I gave it a shot and voila!
[quoted image]

Quoted from Tophervette:

Where do you buy a power destroy board? VinnyBlanc . Is this a stern part?

Quoted from JP76:

I have a dumb question. After beating the first monster in Tokyo, how do you light the white ramp lights so you can start the next Kaiju battle? I had GZ multiball ready (2 balls on roof) but I didn’t want to start it until I started a battle.

Quoted from Tophervette:

Where do you buy a power destroy board? VinnyBlanc . Is this a stern part?

Quoted from bush3262:

Hit the scoop and change cities.

Quoted from JP76:

You need to light kaiju battle at the scoop first, but you need to shoot 2 ramps when lit in order to do that. My question is how to light ramps?