I’ve seen lots of talk about the destruction jackpot shot not falling onto the flipper as some would like. I also had this issue and it turned out that the Mylar under the bridge was creating a small guide that had enough effect to move the ball to the right. I just added a small piece of Mylar next to the existing piece to “bridge” the transition from the magnet. Hope this helps someone else.

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You don’t need to worry about the interlock switch for switch test mode. The interlock switch just cuts high voltage power, not power to the switches.

Not the best pictures in the world, because they don't do the work justice, but just got back the side armor after Steve at MI Pinball Refinery did his magic. A very, very fine job and Steve was just a great person to deal with.

I know some don't like the gold, but, eh, it is what it is. At least it's more Ghidorah (this machine needs more Ghidorah).

My only complaint is that the two body holes for these do not align with the body holes for the originals (small screws only). Otherwise, installation was easy enough.

Thanks again Steve for the quick turnaround and the beautiful work. Happy with the upgrade.
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Hello everyone,

Here is our version of the spinner shield made for the MechaGodzilla.

This mod was created thanks to the design made by “@king_pin”
It is made of resin and painted by hand.

You can order here:
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/08054-mechagodzilla-shield-spinner-mod-for-prem-le

See you soon !

Pino Pinball Mods

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Added the Speaker Light Kit!

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Thanks for the credit on the design! Looks great. I hope many more people can enjoy this mod now! Cheers.

During Gameplay my Tesla Tower has broken (there was no hit with the ball).

I am dissapointed of the stability.

Was from the first run.

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Thx, i found the color on prismatic website.

They look great but seem to break very easily.

I was able to repair with gel cyanoacrylate superglue.

RM

This. They are little plastic things with a heavy metal ball flying around! Just glue and go. Superglue (cyanoacrylate) is best.

Silver ballzilla destroyed your Tesla ! Was it a tail whip?

Just double checked my goodie bag. I didn’t get any “Magna lube”. I feel like a kid who didn’t get his toy in the happy meal. Waaaaah!

This from the rulesheet.....Each city has four major objectives: Kaiju Battles (RAID), Tesla Strike (POWER), Bridge Attack Multiball (BRIDGE), and Tank Attack Multiball (TANKS). These objectives can only be accomplished once per city; completing any of them - or just attempting a Kaiju Battle - will light the Destruction Jackpot at the building and allow the player to change cities by shooting the scoop.

To light the jet fighter attack, I just ramp out, left and right ramps to start the jet fighter mode. It's a hurry-up mode.

2 out of 3 have broke on my game. I tried super glue but it just won’t stay.

Try simple hot glue gun get the tinny small one takes small sticks any arts and craft place should have it

At this place you can change your Tesla power by our King Ghidorah

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1338-pino-pinball-mods-shop/07709-king-ghidorah

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With all this breaking tesla tower talk I'm blaming you guys for jinxing me

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Godzera Attack !! ( just say Godzilla real fast over and over and you’ll get it)

Hmnn, I hate to see things broken when it comes to pins but it does look more "theme integrated" that way...if it can be propped like that it'd look cool, imho.

It looked pretty cool when it was leaning slightly before it fell totally over.

It can.

I used clear zip ties
And now it hangs half broken.

Was going to replace it, but figured it works or rather “more integrated” as you said. Lol

They can be replaced, but Im not too eager to spend $100CAD for 1 tower.

Has anyone tried the UV kit that Freddy's sells for Godzilla? Was looking for videos on the internet to see how it looked in action and came up empty. It looks more like blue LEDs than actual UV...

https://www.shop.freddys-pinball-paradise.de/index.php
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Figured it out

I only installed #1 and it broke yesterday. I’ve glued it back together but might try and put a piece of wire or something in it to make it look broke as it kinda looks cool that way.

Wonder if they could be brushed with resin to make them more sturdy!? I’ve been considering trying it.

or put them on a spring so they are flexible and wobble when the shaker goes off

Thanks! that explains the destruction jackpot, I had read that you needed to complete the battles to light, so thought it was happening too frequently.

On the jet fighters, what you stated is what I would expect and am trying to do, but... the red insert at the bottom of the inlanes needs to be lit when the ball hits the insane from the ramp - and mine are randomly (seemingly) lit and off at various times, so I can't just hit the ramp(s) 6 times to light the missiles, often I cannot get any on one side sine the insert is unlit - I am trying to understand what controls when the red insert Isi lit or off ??

thanks

I would maybe check the switches at the bottom of the inlanes to make sure they're making contact. Maybe try doing a switch test and see if they're working as they should. I think you have to roll over them a certain # of times to light them for jet fighter. I'll check my game later today!

Stock settings is 3 of each inlane starts your jet fighters for the first time. It gets harder after that.

something then must be odd with mine, I'll do some tests today. I understand the 3 rollovers in each lane to stat jet fighters, mine is set the same. Each rollover lights a missile on the top plastic, once all 6 are lit (3 on each side) jet fighters starts.
My apparent issue is that there is a red insert in the lane and if it is not lit prior to rolling through insane, a missile will not be counted during rollover and that red insert is not always on, trying to understand what triggers that insert to be on or off. I have had times when I hit the right ramp 4 times in a row, but get no missile/count credit not hat see for jet fighters, because that red inset is not on.

thanks again!

As chuckwurt mentioned after the first one they don’t work exactly the same,

From TiltFourms:
Start Jet Fighter Attack by collecting 6 missiles at the flashing inlanes. On subsequent attempts, the inlanes must be lit by shooting the right spinner lane, and only one inlane might be lit at a time (which toggles via slingshot hits).

I bought some mylar from Pinball life and I am putting it over the shooter lane to help with wear on the wood is that a good idea and do I only need to put one layer of it on or multiple layers? It’s super thin….

I would think one layer should do it?

It’s a little tricky, because I have to put it around that switch in the shooter lane to protect the wood on the edges at the way bottom as well from ball being launched ..

Thank you for your time help and input

It’s a fine idea and one layer is enough. You can put one rectangle piece over the switch slot and all, then carefully cut out the Mylar covering the slot with an exacto knife/pen. Also helps to pull out the pf and/or remove the apron to get access.

You'll have to work very carefully to get the mylar to conform to the bottom of the shooter lane area where it has been routed lower to meet the shooter rod tip. The mylar is less flexible and may want to unstick after you've pushed it into that area with pressure. Also remember the ball only contacts the wood in the center third or so of the lane... so you won't need to take the mylar all the way to the lane edges if you don't wish to.

Gotcha thanks guys I’m doing it the hard way I guess individually trimming smaller pieces to put in and around shooter lane wear

Does take longer this way but I don’t mind

Okay I just checked on mine. Immediately after the 1st plunge to start the game, the Advance Jet red insert should be lit in both inlanes and three rollovers on each switch should start Jetfighter Attack. If that's not happening on yours, maybe check the menu settings. I just saw that Game Adjustment #16 is for Jet Fighter Attack Difficulty. Default is set to "Easy". Maybe your setting is changed? Might be worth checking it out.

Finally joining the club tomorrow after waiting since Oct. 21! Have a shooter rod from Super Skill Shot, the stainless bridge, building, and mechzilla covers, Toyko Neon sign, the Noodle bar mod is ordered, shaker motor, and cliffies ready to go. Anything else I should be thinking about for upgrades or preventive maintenance measures?

Check out and be familiar with the key posts at the top the game may need a few fine tweaks or dialed in which is Normal for a NIB stern.

Congratulations on getting one!

No don't do that. Cut a template, then peel and cut off an inch of backing. Set it in the top, pull rest of backing off and push mylar into the groove first. Then the edges, then razor cut out the switch. 5 minute job,just did Cactus last night

Thanks! Apologies to you and Chuck for my ignorance, I found that my adjustment setting was at medium for jet attack, when I set it to easy it is operating like you both described for the first instance. for the 2nd instance it is acting like mine was initially, which say I was confused.

I still would like to learn/figure out what (unless random?) affects when each inline red inset is on for 2nd, 3rd, etc fighter attacks or if your setting is medium or hard

appreciated the help!

mike

Anyone have the wizardmods art blades? Easy to get on and reposition as they claim?

How about Super Glue with baking soda sprinkled on top?

Hi all, the screw holding bridge plastic right above the magnet keeps on coming off. Has anyone experienced the same? Solution is to superglue? Or get the bridge mod?
Thanks!

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I think the insert light toggles with slingshot hits and someone earlier also mentioned that after the first wave, you have to hit the right spinner shot to light the insert as well.

Just get the Stern ones. Original zombie yeti art instead of photoshopped from the playfield/cabinet (redundant). And they are bullet proof.

I got them for both Godzilla and Star Wars - they are excellent, easy to apply & reposition, high quality, I recommend

Tighten it completely. If that's not enough, use a little loctite blue. You don't want to use the permanent Loctite red or superglue as it would be extremely difficult to remove the screw in the future if you wanted to.

Playing around with it a bit today, its not the right spinner but the rollover switch behind the pop that triggers it !

Another minor annoyance I was working on today - once in a while (I'm certain others have experienced) when I shoot the ball through the right spinner it bounces up and gets stuck between mecha's arm and the side wall, no releasing it until you take the glass off, ugh. I was carefully trying to bend mecha's arm in slightly, but the plastic memory tends to eventually bring it back. Putting a silicone dot on the wall doesn't help, any other suggestions or ways to keep his arm bent in a bit?

thanks!

That’s the right spinner lane switch. That’s proper.