(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

9 months ago


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  • 11,869 posts - Hot topic!
  • 880 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 1 hour ago by vicjw66
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“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 161 votes
    20%
  • PREMIUM 422 votes
    53%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 219 votes
    27%

(802 votes)

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14 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,869 posts in this topic. You are on page 161 of 238.
#8001 4 months ago

I put the PinMonk cooling fans on my flipper coils and they made a big difference. I could barely make it up the right ramp after 20 minutes before those fans fixed the issue. Now it plays solidly for hours.

#8002 4 months ago

I got the Diddy signature building, Wizard blades, shaker motor, titan rubbers, and official side armor. I am looking on amazon for figures to place in the field, specifically Godzilla and Mecha.

Can't wait for it to arrive some time next month!

#8003 4 months ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I put the PinMonk cooling fawns on my flipper coils and they made a big difference. I could barely make it up the right ramp after 20 minutes before those fans fixed the issue. Now it plays solidly for hours.

Thanks for the support!

I don't know what the difference is, but some GZ seem to have coil fade faster than others in a play session. They all need help for longer sessions, but some of them are like yours that are fading after only 20 minutes. I'm not sure if it's more sensitive players tuned into the fade quickly or something mechanically different with certain builds, but it's definitely a thing.

#8004 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Thanks for the support!
I don't know what the difference is, but some GZ seem to have coil fade faster than others in a play session. They all need help for longer sessions, but some of them are like yours that are fading after only 20 minutes. I'm not sure if it's more sensitive players tuned into the fade quickly or something mechanically different with certain builds, but it's definitely a thing.

Could also be player style and EOS problems…..to be thorough.

#8005 4 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

Could also be player style and EOS problems…..to be thorough.

The only style thing that would matter is if they flip a lot unnecessarily. Trap play on Stern Spike doesn't affect coil temps noticeably because they have that magic micro-second duty cycle in hold that no one else has. It's really a huge advantage over literally everyone else.

#8006 4 months ago
Quoted from Frax:

Ah, that's probably why, good call! Honestly I was hoping they'd move the building up or down for other modes to direct the ball to more amenible positions...just having it divert when you're locking balls....that's kinda...meh for me.

I was playing an LE on location last week and was told a cool mode (Gigan?) you want to select if you have the building in the lock position. Because of that specific position you can repeatedly shoot the right ramp

#8007 4 months ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Thanks for the support!
I don't know what the difference is, but some GZ seem to have coil fade faster than others in a play session. They all need help for longer sessions, but some of them are like yours that are fading after only 20 minutes. I'm not sure if it's more sensitive players tuned into the fade quickly or something mechanically different with certain builds, but it's definitely a thing.

ya, never had this issue on EHOH, but man, is it apparent on GZ. your fans definitely made a huge difference, for my machine at least.

#8008 4 months ago
Quoted from KJL:

I was playing an LE on location last week and was told a cool mode (Gigan?) you want to select if you have the building in the lock position. Because of that specific position you can repeatedly shoot the right ramp

Yes this is true. The Rt ramp shot is easier to make. But repeatedly shooting the RT ramp during Gigan scores you lower jackpots. For max points, you want to alternate your LT & RT ramp shots (and have 2x running) until you complete the mode. Smart coding if you ask me.

#8009 4 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Thanks. Like to see some pics from people that added a figure back there. I know there some on here but....Really trying to get some ideas of MUST add-ons, especially for the Pro

D92CF242-C8F5-4677-8D26-408F02C2C91A (resized).jpeg
#8010 4 months ago

two Godzilla's 6 stops replaced. also had my JP2 need 3 swaps - although its over 2 years old!

#8011 4 months ago
Quoted from Amused_to_Death:

Love the tail! Which figure are you using there?

Thx.On Ebay Godzilla Diamond Select Figure 2020 Totto 1974 Bank Movie Retro
ebay.com link: Godzilla Diamond Select Figure 2020 Totto 1974 Bank Movie Retro

#8012 4 months ago
Quoted from izzy:

Thx.On Ebay Godzilla Diamond Select Figure 2020 Totto 1974 Bank Movie Retro
ebay.com link: Godzilla Diamond Select Figure 2020 Totto 1974 Bank Movie Retro

Says 10" though. Isn't that too big?? Perfect tho

#8013 4 months ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

I put the PinMonk cooling fans on my flipper coils and they made a big difference. I could barely make it up the right ramp after 20 minutes before those fans fixed the issue. Now it plays solidly for hours.

Mine does the same after 20-30 minutes and that's after I replaced the Stern coils and sleeves. Did you change out your Stern coils and still got the fade and then got the fans, or did you put the fans on the stock Stern coils and sleeves?

#8014 4 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Thanks. Like to see some pics from people that added a figure back there. I know there some on here but....Really trying to get some ideas of MUST add-ons, especially for the Pro

I also added a Japanese jet to my pro and also two spotlights by the slings and added the spotlight that was originally there by the misor cannon but with a shorter hex post.

AEBB8741-68E6-4C48-AEB9-57721A87E153 (resized).jpeg
#8015 4 months ago

Anyone else receive their flame effect lights from speakerlights.com?

#8016 4 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Anyone else receive their flame effect lights from speakerlights.com?

Patiently waiting since early January. I’m sure he’s covered up with orders. These kits are beautiful. I’m sure they’re comin soon. Can’t wait!

#8017 4 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Anyone else receive their flame effect lights from speakerlights.com?

Got a shipping notification yesterday.

#8018 4 months ago
Quoted from troon47:

Mine does the same after 20-30 minutes and that's after I replaced the Stern coils and sleeves. Did you change out your Stern coils and still got the fade and then got the fans, or did you put the fans on the stock Stern coils and sleeves?

I just added the fans.

#8019 4 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Anyone else receive their flame effect lights from speakerlights.com?

I ordered one week ago. But it's well written on his website that you need to be patient or you just don't do the order.
As i also have a 1 person company and i do everything, i understand him perfectly. And i will wait wisely for my kit.
It looks amazing

#8020 4 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Anyone else receive their flame effect lights from speakerlights.com?

I ordered the second I got the email. Have had mine installed for a month and absolutely love them every time I turn on the machine. They are well worth the wait but be patient. Pretty sure Doug got swamped with orders and is building as many as he can.

#8021 4 months ago

Just got my art blades in the mail yesterday from Pinball Life.

These are the official Stern Release versions and I can say they appear to be very high quality. It's a thicker material, and the printing on it is very nice. Hole punch outs for screw holes as well.

Can't wait to get em on my pro,as soon as it arrives next month! (fingers crossed)

#8022 4 months ago
Quoted from ZAuxier:

Just got my art blades in the mail yesterday from Pinball Life.
These are the official Stern Release versions and I can say they appear to be very high quality. It's a thicker material, and the printing on it is very nice. Hole punch outs for screw holes as well.
Can't wait to get em on my pro,as soon as it arrives next month! (fingers crossed)

Even if art blades can be cool and have some nice art, looks nice when you look only at them but, mirror blades it's really better in my opinion, it "opens" the playfield, makes it larger, makes the lights expand, opens the horizon, gives another dimension. Still, art blades is much better than nothing of course

#8023 4 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Says 10" though. Isn't that too big?? Perfect tho

You have to cut him down to roughly 6.5" and cut off his tail also need to shave off part of his right elbow and carve out part of the bottom for the switch below him. I hope that helps. He is mounted with velcro if anyone wants to see what that looks like. Also made a larger piece of plexi for him to stand on. Same with the tail.

#8024 4 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Anyone else receive their flame effect lights from speakerlights.com?

Got mine earlier this week. Didn’t receive any shipping notification or anything like that, they just showed up, so it was a nice surprise! Ordered in early January.

11
#8025 4 months ago
Quoted from Josh0979:

Any suggestion on the best vendor for these? Thanks!

Since we are in the business of magnetism - I wanted to take a moment to talk a little about magnetism and balls...lots of information around this topic - and a lot more misinformation...

Simply stated Ball Baron's Polaris balls should prove more resistant to magnetism than anything else I've seen -so far (and that can change).

I use the word resistant because invariably - depending on the magnetic sources in the pin - balls can/will become magnetized - thus demagnetizing them or replacing them will always be a facet of maintenance. Now I say this because data/specs are key...the reality is that both BC Precision and Ball Baron's 'chromium, high-sheen, ninja' balls are 52100 steel - that's it - there is nothing more to differentiate other than grade of shine....however, BC Precisions 'carbon' balls are 1010 it would seem...actually 1010 has very little carbon compared to 52100. And this leads to the discussion of high carbon - there is more carbon (and other less magnetic metals) in 52100 than 1010...so high carbon can be a misnomer as 52100 is high carbon. But the Polaris is different....it is CA-2 - now that probably can't obtain the sheen of 52100 BUT it has just as much carbon and even more chromium and molybdenum in it than 52100 - making it compositionally less magnetic. So what's the difference. Here is where it comes down to hardness - well, both are around mid-60's on the Rockwell scale...so that's similar...but where the real difference is is the hardening process....the 52100 is hardened all the way through...the CA-2 is surface hardened. This leaves the core of the Polaris 'soft' with big cubic structure making it less apt to stay magnetic - but it is not magnetic proof.

The takeaway is knowing how the pinballs were hardened and the AISI or similar identification of steel - without that information - high carbon or magnetic resistance and all of that are just words - you have to look at the data.

So just some thoughts, I'm sure there are some metallurgists out there or similar that will dispute this and the debate will rage on forever - but that's how I approach my pinballs.....look at the data - then make the decision. In the end they are just pinballs - and they all work in our pins....

Matt
M&M Creations

#8026 4 months ago
Quoted from izzy:

You have to cut him down to roughly 6.5" and cut off his tail also need to shave off part of his right elbow and carve out part of the bottom for the switch below him. I hope that helps. He is mounted with velcro if anyone wants to see what that looks like. Also made a larger piece of plexi for him to stand on. Same with the tail.

Sounds like more work than need be to me, but. I like the look of this figure best from what i've found so far. Just want one that will fit without cutting and shaving here and there. Who know's, maybe....Thanks..

#8027 4 months ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

Sounds like more work than need be to me, but. I like the look of this figure best from what i've found so far. Just want one that will fit without cutting and shaving here and there. Who know's, maybe....Thanks..

No problem. I get it. there are some that fit without modification. They have been mentioned previously in this forum.

#8028 4 months ago
Quoted from Sonic:

Simply stated Ball Baron's Polaris balls should prove more resistant to magnetism than anything else I've seen -so far (and that can change).

Get Titan standard shiny balls. Never seen one magnetize. Would love more scientific info on why that is. Haha. And maybe it just takes so long for those, I throw them away before they magnetize.

#8029 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Get Titan standard shiny balls. Never seen one magnetize. Would love more scientific info on why that is. Haha. And maybe it just takes so long for those, I throw them away before they magnetize.

How often do you toss your ballz? Just curious, I’ve never really heard a roundabout number

#8031 4 months ago

I don’t think I have seen many pictures of the AIQ rod lit up on Godzilla so thought I would share. Thanks to Blakester for the instructions to wire it in. It ends up soldered to the rgb block that runs the UFO flasher, so it is semi permanent I guess but I think it ends up looking awesome.

2934DEAF-D7A3-45F2-99CA-2074CE203F78 (resized).jpeg5EA4BF29-B31B-4DB9-8104-1AD9D6DC157A (resized).jpeg
#8032 4 months ago

Just making sure left flipper is not meant to be a bit droopy? Others are lined up with the alignment hole?

image (resized).jpg
#8033 4 months ago

Could you please post a picture of where you soldered the connection & install ?

Thanks.

Looks great.

Quoted from Selig:

I don’t think I have seen many pictures of the AIQ rod lit up on Godzilla so thought I would share. Thanks to Blakester for the instructions to wire it in. It ends up soldered to the rgb block that runs the UFO flasher, so it is semi permanent I guess but I think it ends up looking awesome. [quoted image][quoted image]

#8034 4 months ago
Quoted from Tiltbob:

How often do you toss your ballz? Just curious, I’ve never really heard a roundabout number

Eh. Not very often. They have to be chipped or dull and that takes like at least a couple thousand plays on a high traffic game I would say.

#8035 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Just making sure left flipper is not meant to be a bit droopy? Others are lined up with the alignment hole?
[quoted image]

Yes. Point it right at the hole. That’s what she said.

#8036 4 months ago
Quoted from Apollo18:

Could you please post a picture of where you soldered the connection & install ?
Thanks.
Looks great.

The AIQ plugs are already separated to black for ground plug and 5v, R, G, B on another plug. Normally you would plug the powerRGB into CN15 but that requires software to drive the lights. I ran the 5v (yellow in my soldering) and RGB up to the block that has wires for the UFO RGB light. I just cut the moles from my AIQ and soldered/heat shrank a 5’ extension to the wires but if you have the parts you can just make a harness. My wires went:

AIQ Solid Red > Yellow
AIQ Red/Green > Red
AIQ Green > Green
AIQ Blue > Blue

0C183F8D-4042-473A-BC31-AF70B65B72FE (resized).jpeg7E15671B-BE19-486B-A3ED-DE022A0C0C02 (resized).jpeg940C5647-A813-4D03-ABA0-17D2016E7324 (resized).jpeg
#8037 4 months ago
Quoted from Selig:

The AIQ plugs are already separated to black for ground plug and 5v, R, G, B on another plug. Normally you would plug the powerRGB into CN15 but that requires software to drive the lights. I ran the 5v (yellow in my soldering) and RGB up to the block that has wires for the UFO RGB light. I just cut the moles from my AIQ and soldered/heat shrank a 5’ extension to the wires but if you have the parts you can just make a harness. My wires went:
AIQ Solid Red > Yellow
AIQ Red/Green > Red
AIQ Green > Green
AIQ Blue > Blue[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Haha! I couldn’t find an AIQ shooter rod in stock. I had to create my own AIQ shooter rod from ModFather’s gem shooter and some help from pinsiders that owned one. To think of chopping one up for another game! Sacrilege!!

Looks great btw! Nice addition to GZ!

#8038 4 months ago

Went with the green 5.25” from Doug. The flamin looks hot, but wanted like the look of the other when it’s turned off. Also a sucker for continuity between my pins.

75C4B28D-52DE-4642-8AD3-1741E7CDD0DB (resized).jpeg
#8039 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Went with the green 5.25” from Doug. The flamin looks hot, but wanted like the look of the other when it’s turned off. Also a sucker for continuity between my pins. [quoted image]

F5A45992-B219-4CF6-9A21-95DA2E5DA418.jpeg

#8040 4 months ago

Damn insider connect!!!!

#8041 4 months ago
Quoted from Selig:

I don’t think I have seen many pictures of the AIQ rod lit up on Godzilla so thought I would share. Thanks to Blakester for the instructions to wire it in. It ends up soldered to the rgb block that runs the UFO flasher, so it is semi permanent I guess but I think it ends up looking awesome. [quoted image][quoted image]

How about a video of it changing color!

#8042 4 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Just making sure left flipper is not meant to be a bit droopy? Others are lined up with the alignment hole?
[quoted image]

I think both should have a slight droop. Others myself and NightTrain determined this was normal.

#8043 4 months ago
Quoted from Bmanpin:

I think both should have a slight droop. Others myself and NightTrain determined this was normal.

Thanks. Will play with it for a bit longer. It seems to be making shots ok.

12
#8044 4 months ago

Re-rubbered our premium because the stock game was just getting SO FILTHY so quick. I'm not kidding... this was about one week of play.. ball trails would appear in a day.

IMG_1983 copy (resized).jpg

So redid the game with Titans.. and of course found errors in the manual as typical.

Interesting difference between Prem and Pro. Both have a starpost behind the city scoop plastic.. on the Pro they rubbered it, on Prem they skipped the rubber. They also call for different sizes on the same starpost for some reason in the pro.. calling for 7/16 ID on a starpost! Nah... besides, no point in changing the rubber on the ball trap posts unless you are doing it for artistic reasons. They also call for 3/8" ID on the star posts, were 5/16" was more common before.

Anyway, some insights I thought I'd share for others who haven't crossed this bridge yet.

1 - like most modern sterns of late, there is very little rubber on this game.. super easy to access all the spots. Only very minor disassembly needed... one plastic on the left, the city scoop plastic, the left habittrail return needs to be freed up and the right spiral habittrail needs to be freed up.

2 - EVERY THREADED POST was loose. This is annoying because of course the post will want to unscrew vs just the nylon nut. SAVE YOURSELF FOR THE FUTURE, tighten every one of these threaded posts when you do your rubber job.. so you don't have loose posts haunting you. The post at the upper flipper tip was close to wobbling.. but that one takes hits.

3 - Check out this re-enforcement they used on the city scoop!
IMG_2021 copy (resized).jpg

Updated the manual drawing - you can also add this list easily in my Titan kits in the db
Godzilla Prem-LE Rubber (resized).png
Prem/LE Kit - https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5762#collapse2053
Godzilla Rubber (resized).png
Pro kit - https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5761#collapse2052

#8045 4 months ago
Quoted from Magicmike0:

Patiently waiting since early January. I’m sure he’s covered up with orders. These kits are beautiful. I’m sure they’re comin soon. Can’t wait!

I ordered January 6th. Can’t wait to to get them and also ufo mod from art of pinball. Last two things I am waiting on plus my alternate translite that just shipped over sea’s.

#8046 4 months ago
Quoted from Dias:

I ordered one week ago. But it's well written on his website that you need to be patient or you just don't do the order.
As i also have a 1 person company and i do everything, i understand him perfectly. And i will wait wisely for my kit.
It looks amazing

I was just curious and asked if anyone received theirs yet, so relax. I am not complaining at all and am waiting patiently. I read his website also. Don’t need to sound like an a$$. I waited 8 months for my EHOH so I am not impatient.

#8047 4 months ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

Re-rubbered our premium because the stock game was just getting SO FILTHY so quick. I'm not kidding... this was about one week of play.. ball trails would appear in a day.
[quoted image]
So redid the game with Titans.. and of course found errors in the manual as typical.
Interesting difference between Prem and Pro. Both have a starpost behind the city scoop plastic.. on the Pro they rubbered it, on Prem they skipped the rubber. They also call for different sizes on the same starpost for some reason in the pro.. calling for 7/16 ID on a starpost! Nah... besides, no point in changing the rubber on the ball trap posts unless you are doing it for artistic reasons. They also call for 3/8" ID on the star posts, were 5/16" was more common before.
Anyway, some insights I thought I'd share for others who haven't crossed this bridge yet.
1 - like most modern sterns of late, there is very little rubber on this game.. super easy to access all the spots. Only very minor disassembly needed... one plastic on the left, the city scoop plastic, the left habittrail return needs to be freed up and the right spiral habittrail needs to be freed up.
2 - EVERY THREADED POST was loose. This is annoying because of course the post will want to unscrew vs just the nylon nut. SAVE YOURSELF FOR THE FUTURE, tighten every one of these threaded posts when you do your rubber job.. so you don't have loose posts haunting you. The post at the upper flipper tip was close to wobbling.. but that one takes hits.
3 - Check out this re-enforcement they used on the city scoop!
[quoted image]
Updated the manual drawing - you can also add this list easily in my Titan kits in the db
[quoted image]
Prem/LE Kit - https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5762#collapse2053
[quoted image]
Pro kit - https://www.titanpinball.com/kits/index.php/browse/bygame/5761#collapse2052

Did you find the entrance to the subway ramp on the right was worn? I’m finding now and then a reject from our left ramp is hitting the right of the metal 180 degree ramp. There is no rubber there.

#8048 4 months ago

Hi - I did try and search this thread and the adjustments, quick question - I would like to add a ball save timer to the bottom right scoop (specifically when you start a mission) I know I can turn eject power down etc for this, however is there an adjustment to do this? only needs to be 1s or so but would like something as getting some unlucky spit outs.

Secondly at the start of a players game I'd like to shorten the ball save, I think the auto plunge is hitting the wallop / tail type thing, so between the normal ball save + this it can be 5-6 balls (I'd like to cap it at no more then 2 regardless of what is triggered) - if anyone can point me in the right direction it would be good.

I've searched the readme and the PDF highlighting the adjustments but perhaps using the wrong search terms. hope this makes sense!

Thanks anyone who can advise!

#8049 3 months ago
Quoted from gumnut01:

Just making sure left flipper is not meant to be a bit droopy? Others are lined up with the alignment hole?
[quoted image]

My right was aligned on the dot, but my left flipper just like yours, slightly drooped.

#8050 3 months ago
Quoted from El_Patron:

My right was aligned on the dot, but my left flipper just like yours, slightly drooped.

Same same. Must be for the scoop. All the shots feel fine.

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