Each one is different, after Tank MB a single random tank insert will be lit for an annihilation bonus collect, once that is hit another tank insert will light until you move out of the city.

Powerline is similar one of the standups will be lit to collect and it will move to another one.

Bridge is where it gets a little different, once bridge MB is complete you need to collect a certain number of switch hits, I think around 40, that will light the captive ball/magna grab to collect the bridge annihilation bonus. That is why its good to use GZ and Mecha MBs to collect these as you just need to rip spinners and hit the captive ball as much as you can. If you have a really good bridge you annihilation bonus will be larger that regular jackpots and once you've completed multiple city actions that value is multiplied to the point it might be worth more than come GZMB super jackpots.

Tank roves around. Seems random where it goes after you collect. Bridge is always collected at the magnet. Tesla roves too. Tesla and tank are always lit, bridge takes 75 switches to light I believe.

Hey all - I need to replace the translite on my GZ and I see that Stern uses some sort of double-sided tape to keep the trim channels in place. Anyone know what kind of tape they use? Is it even necessary? Thanks.

Ok gotcha, so aside from maybe a VO callout or if I cradle and hold flipper down and cycle there's no real visual difference between a tank pickup (first ten to light multi) and then annihilation triggering pickup?

It’s a slow pulsing insert. Instead of solid. If you’ve played that mode in that city, all that you can do until you leave that city is collect bonuses. So there’s no confusing it with the normal insert light.

I replaced the translite glass on a JP with a Pinstein version. Bought a piece of 1/8 glass, got the plastic channels from PBL, and just assembled it without glue or tape or anything else. Looks great and didn't need any adhesive to keep it all in place! (Glass was $20, plastic set was about $10) and I stored the factory backglass for future needs.

High end mods

High end mods will be offering one no need to print your own

Mezelmods already has one for $95. I think he was wanting to print his own. There is one available on Cults3D for $2, but it's the design from the 1990s movies. IMO looks way better but it's not appropriate to the earlier Godzilla films shown in the game

Hi guys, im still not able to remove the action button from lockbar.

I hold the button with my hand and turn the metal nut with a channel lock and i still can’t remove it.

Anyone with pictures or video to show me how to do it. I feel stupid lol

Last part before sending to powdercoat.

Try pulling down on the nut or up on the button as you turn.

Whenever I start Monster Zero or Terror of Mecha, the building is at the highest position when the VUK kicks the ball up. However, the ball always gets stuck at the point of entry to the building (see pic). A ball search eventually frees it. The ball is getting trapped between the side of the top ramp and the guide inside the building top floor. Has anyone else encountered this?

The building does have a little left-and-right play. I can physically tilt the building just enough to the left and that creates a large enough opening for the ball to move freely. I looked for loose screws under the playfield that might help firm up the building and, hopefully, correct the issue, but didn't find any. I'd put a washer under a screw or something like that to try and tilt the building a bit (to the left) but don't see how since the building seems to be free-standing along that long lead screw under the playfield. Any suggestions on how to tilt the building one way or the other? Or other options?

PXL_20230323_214704236 - Copy (resized).jpg

Finally my status is upgraded to…

Billionaire

C9C1A894-66F8-4C96-B3B6-F887565D5614 (resized).jpeg

Anyone have the issue with the VUK that kicks the ball up to lock in the building? Mine has to trigger 2-3 times before the ball pops to the ramp to lock in the building.

Is the machine level from side to side and at proper incline?

Yes. A good hard nudge will usually get the VUK to do its job. The issue is a gap between the VUK and the horizontal ramp. Lift up your playfield and take a look. See how it is a bit cockeyed and the gap is larger on one end than the other? The ball rests in this gap half the time. Known issue. Some people get a business card and tape it across the chasm, others use strategically places washers to alleviate some of the crookedness between the ramp and VUK. I put a couple washers under one side of the ramp. Helps a little. Wrote to Stern many months ago.... never heard a thing baxk. So, now I just give the maxhine a good solid nudge if I am locking balls in the building.

I was having the issue with the ball sometimes getting stuck in the gap between the small metal trough and the VUK assembly.

I put in the "business card" fix and it's been 100% ever since - no stuck balls.

The VUK still occasionally (1 in 10?) needs two tries to get it up to the top.

RM

Yes to both

Ah, got it, thanks. Washers or business cars, I’ll check it out!

Are the threads stripped or something? Post a pic.

Yes, it's level and the pitch is good. I tried playing around with the stepper height because as soon as the building begins to lower as it goes into ball search mode, the ball does release. However, adjusting the height setting also messes with the ground floor entrance not being even with the pf so that's not an option. I'll keep looking for a way to shift the building just slightly to the left. It's just not apparent.

The main connection between the building assembly and the bottom side of the playfield rides on o-rings. If I remember correctly, there are o-rings sandwiched between the building base and the playfield, with nuts on studs holding the base in place. You might try tweaking the nuts to tilt the building slightly (tighten or loosen two on one side of the playfield to make it tilt a touch) to help your situation?

For all of you who need more Stern accessories:

why do we think rush got a topper before godzilla?

Probably part supply issues

So I'm noticing on my ramp wireforms that some of the joints are a little sharp. I'm wondering if this is the sort of thing I should be concerned about cutting up my balls and therefore the playfield in turn? I'm using the polaris carbons so they're also going to be not as hard as ninjas or whatever.

Anybody have any thoughts on this? Advice greatly appreciated. Many thanks!

There’s lots of metal in the game to put small dings in your balls after a while. I wouldn’t worry about the wireforms in particular. Best thing to do is just inspect the balls every 300-500 games. If you notice scratches or dings, just replace. Balls are cheap.

That's just good advice I think in general!

I'll see if I can sand off the burrs just to avoid having to replace the balls super early...

Thanks!

Nobody had this issue yet?

Mine had this issue out of the box
Just loosen the wire form and push it out a bit
Hold it and tighten again
It worked on mine

I'm not a good guy to ask. All of those accessories could be 50% off and I wouldn't blink. I'm sure Stern has their reasons, but they don't share them with me.

Well now I feel like an idiot - the accessory post was supposed to go on the Rush owners forum, not here. Eesh.

Actually, I liked the post! The Rush topper looks cool and is cheaper than Mando topper. Guessing Godzilla topper will be in the 2000 range as well.

That is a third of a new pin. I am seriously gonna pass in the topper and save for a new pin due to the price. Regardless how cool it looks

Ive done this in a few spots and it always makes the ball hang up when it enters the building after that.

Im thinking about bending it out past

I went and did it. First try. Couldnt be any closer. Works fine now. Carry on.

0B12068D-BD5B-414A-B4C2-359954F8F6BD (resized).jpeg

8788CB1E-8097-43A0-BE9B-C411134442EF (resized).jpeg

What you do with your balls and your wireforms is your own personal business. Lol.

But seriously, if there are sharp pieces of the welds that could cause issues, I'd file them down, or gently carefully "crush" them down with some needle nose pliers. That way your Balls aren't in danger any longer

Can anyone tell me where these two black washers go. Left them off while installing armor.

20230328_205510 (resized).jpg

Backbox hinges I do believe. Inside the cab, behind this bolt.
16800551290447046996587946408963 (resized).jpg

16800552058617269238474960248020 (resized).jpg

Ah, I see it. Thanks

Good to hear you're back in business.

I installed a fidelity speaker upgrade on my machine. with the burning city scape light mod and now the upgraded speakers the back of the speaker touches the metal box ( power supply i believe ) when the speaker panel is raised into place. has anyone ran into this and is this something to be concerned about?

Did You remove the small clear spacers,it may or may not help

Posted in wrong thread. Sorry

yeah I did. I was thinking about sticking some electrical tape on the back part of the speaker magnet just for a little buffer.

On Godzilla? Expression lights aren't compatible with Godzilla. Did you mean this to go in the Rush thread?

Oops. Wrong thread.

I think Stern is learning can charge that much now for toppers, b/c aftermarket sales of toppers being ridiculous like R2D2 topper or Ghostbuster toppers topping (no pun intended) more than $2000 if can find them.

It will never happen, but if we stop buying at those prices from Stern directly, maybe--with fingers crossed--help prices come back down to earth.

I usually like to have toppers, but now it is getting to be more the principle of the thing.

We need to walk away from the idea that our game is lacking if it has no topper.

They’re already trying to make that idea into reality by adding new features with the purchase of the topper.