(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

8 months ago


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  • Latest reply 1 minute ago by Rdoyle1978
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“What model did you order?”

  • PRO 148 votes
    20%
  • PREMIUM 391 votes
    52%
  • LIMITED EDITION!!! 216 votes
    29%

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There are 11,003 posts in this topic. You are on page 90 of 221.
#4451 5 months ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Outside of the height...even if you cut off from the bottom to get it to fit under the glass, it looks wide enough where it wont fit between the wireform and the side of the cabinet.

Oh yeah looks like a problem

#4452 5 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

How much will you have to cut off on order to get it to fit? Seems like a lot will need to be cut off. And update if you can please on your progress. [quoted image]

Sorry I was talking about the Godzilla bank...not the MechaGodzilla

#4453 5 months ago

Is there 6” of clearance here? Looking into another option. Thanks

BE469CE9-6F60-46BE-A453-2FA50DA38E76 (resized).jpeg
#4454 5 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Is there 6” of clearance here? Looking into another option. Thanks
[quoted image]

Its about 5 and 3/8ths ". I had made a quick measurement a few days ago and this was to the top of that head. Might squeeze in a bit more but it was already pretty close

#4455 5 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Sorry I was talking about the Godzilla bank...not the MechaGodzilla

I would say about 1/2 inch would do it to make GZ clear. Trouble is that would cut off the mounting base.

#4456 5 months ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Its about 5 and 3/8ths ". I had made a quick measurement a few days ago and this was to the top of that head. Might squeeze in a bit more but it was already pretty close

Ok thank you for that. As someone mentioned the wire form ramp will be an issue probably. Looking at the 12” bank of MechaGodzilla and from the waist to the top of the head is 6”. It’s not as wide or big as the bust bank. But it’s not cheap unfortunately.

#4457 5 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

It’s a captive ball with a target behind it. Adjust the sensitivity of the spot target behind the captive ball.

Thanks for that. I understand that. Curious if a straight on hit in the magnet should register all or at least most of the time or do you need to hit it a number of times to register. I assume it’s not registering if the bridge doesn’t shake. Mine will not register probably 8 out of 10 times.

#4458 5 months ago

This is fast becoming my favorite game. Having never owned a Stern nor played one off location, I have a few question if folks have time.

(Premium)

1) Do these speakers suck, is the graininess due to sound design for old radio motif or is it distortion, and/or is "10" too loud?
2) I have the game with the top of the on-field bubble entirely obscured by the top line. This is lower than when I set it up and the left ramp is much easier to hit, but still definitely an event when made. Lower it some more? I feel the right ramp is just about right, and outright STDM rejections on misses are now rare.
3) About once in 5 or 6 games a ball gets caught at the entrance of the building. Ball search resolves it, but kind of annoying. Anyone else? Remedy?
4) Where do you place your level when trying to measure left/right? I had it perfect on initial set up, but after I decided the game was too steep and lowered it, I seem to be drifting left... though the level reads fairly dead. Given my experience is with far older machines with about 1/5 the things to shoot, this kind of precision is new to me.
5) Can someone link a nice text format rules / strategy document? I don't want to watch people on YouTube play for 90 minutes.

Put a shaker in today. Pretty fun. Mom loves it. At the bonus countdown she gets a smile on her face and makes stompy noise, "Kuchh, kuccch, bwuchh..." Oh, and, by the way, wait until you see what my she got for wall art. Wow. My guess 80% of you will want one, especially if you install one of these piggy banks.

Mods on the way:

The above giant grey piggy bank.
Tilt Graphics plunger face and breath button plaque.

My God, having Rodan active, finding the right time to control a multiball and hitting your breath attack with a bunch of shots lit is off the fucking hook pinball fun. Just saying.

#4459 5 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

This is fast becoming my favorite game. Having never owned a Stern nor played one off location, I have a few question if folks have time.
(Premium)
1) Do these speakers suck, is the graininess due to sound design for old radio motif or is it distortion, and/or is "10" too loud?
2) I have the game with the top of the on-field bubble entirely obscured by the top line. This is lower than when I set it up and the left ramp is much easier to hit, but still definitely an event when made. Lower it some more? I feel the right ramp is just about right, and outright STDM rejections on misses are now rare.
3) About once in 5 or 6 games a ball gets caught at the entrance of the building. Ball search resolves it, but kind of annoying. Anyone else? Remedy?
4) Where do you place your level when trying to measure left/right? I had it perfect on initial set up, but after I decided the game was too steep and lowered it, I seem to be drifting left... though the level reads fairly dead. Given my experience is with far older machines with about 1/5 the things to shoot, this kind of precision is new to me.
5) Can someone link a nice text format rules / strategy document? I don't want to watch people on YouTube play for 90 minutes.
Put a shaker in today. Pretty fun. Mom loves it. At the bonus countdown she gets a smile on her face and makes stompy noise, "Kuchh, kuccch, bwuchh..." Oh, and, by the way, wait until you see what my she got for wall art. Wow. My guess 80% of you will want one, especially if you install one of these piggy banks.
Mods on the way:
The above giant grey piggy bank.
Tilt Graphics plunger face and breath button plaque.
My God, having Rodan active, finding the right time to control a multiball and hitting your breath attack with a bunch of shots lit is off the fucking hook pinball fun. Just saying.

For (1) -- Adjust the speakers to 4ohm instead of 8ohm (default) -- Even though the default is 8, I don't think non-LE speakers can take it.
For (5) -- http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210

#4460 5 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

What did you do to lock the figure down? I have the same one just haphazardly sitting behind the original plastic now.

Double-sided tape under the feet, and it's slightly braced by the lock nut by his foot. Very stable, but I do have to remove him if I put the pf up. Not a big deal.

Quoted from UnholySpectacle:

I got my premium on Monday but did not really get a chance to set it up till yesterday. Got to play a few games but noticed some issues right away.
1. The ball rattles like crazy on plunge against the side of mechagodzilla. Softer plunges don’t have an issue obviously but if I’m going for the other skill shot it never makes it past that point.
2. The drop from the magnet barely catches the end of the upper flipper which means I can’t hit the loop for destruction jackpots.
3. When I try to hit the loop during regular play the ball hits the loop entryway guide and immediately rattles up and down before dribbling back out. I have made it actually go through the loop once in 10 games and even that one barely made it after rattling.
All of this sounds like a leveling issue but I put my old school manual level straight across on 3 different points on the playfield and the bubble is perfectly in the center.
I played a pro on location and could make the loop consistently. The drop from the magnet in that game was fine as well. Not sure what else to do except maybe order a digital level if my manual one can’t be trusted.
Any recommendations for a good digital level?

I have found that changing the pitch and level, even slightly, has a huge impact on how smooth the loop is and also how the ball drops to the upper flipper, and how easy the loop is to make. Couldn't believe how much of a difference a few turn of the leg levelers made.

So don't forget pitch in the equation. Think I'm at about 6.7 now.

#4461 5 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

3) About once in 5 or 6 games a ball gets caught at the entrance of the building. Ball search resolves it, but kind of annoying. Anyone else? Remedy?

Sounds like you need to adjust your building 1st floor position in the game specific settings of the op menu.

-1
#4462 5 months ago

Guys, the speakers are fine. You are wasting money.

#4463 5 months ago

Be careful Tonight everyone in the midwest.
Tornados breaking out all over.
Keep the news on.

Stay safe.

#4464 5 months ago
Quoted from gonzo73:

Be careful Tonight everyone in the midwest.
Tornados breaking out all over.
Keep the news on.
Stay safe.

just left the basement, had one touch down about 10mi away. keep safe, folks.

#4465 5 months ago
Quoted from Muymanwell:

just left the basement, had one touch down about 10mi away. keep safe, folks.

Damn glad you guys are safe we’re about to get hammered. Roofs collapsed at the Amazon warehouse in edwardsville people trapped inside. Pray .

#4466 5 months ago

Kentucky is getting hit hard right now.

#4467 5 months ago
Quoted from Drain-O:

For (1) -- Adjust the speakers to 4ohm instead of 8ohm (default) -- Even though the default is 8, I don't think non-LE speakers can take it.
For (5) -- http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-godzilla-rulesheet/7210

Great, thanks, I'll try that out. And thanks for the link!

Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

Guys, the speakers are fine. You are wasting money.

The speakers sound like shit, and the bass is barely present. The reason I asked the question is that the sound is so bad/mediocre I thought something might be wrong with it. Maybe my Mom got lemons, but they rasp and rip like a Wal-Mart speaker display. And I'm wasting money by trying the 4-ohm setting?

Quoted from Palmer:

Sounds like you need to adjust your building 1st floor position in the game specific settings of the op menu.

Awesome. Will do. Thanks!

#4468 5 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

Great, thanks, I'll try that out. And thanks for the link!

The speakers sound like shit, and the bass is barely present. The reason I asked the question is that the sound is so bad/mediocre I thought something might be wrong with it. Maybe my Mom got lemons, but they rasp and rip like a Wal-Mart speaker display. And I'm wasting money by trying the 4-ohm setting?

Awesome. Will do. Thanks!

Buy pinwoofers. Sound quality and volume will increase immensely. Worth every penny

#4469 5 months ago

*deep exhale* FINALLY.

20211210_231002 (resized).jpg

That was more of a struggle than most others had with installing, I'd imagine. So little room to light and maneuver over there... But the NECA poster version is on one more machine.

Gotta figure NECA is probably wondering why there's been a sudden run on this particular figure line...

#4470 5 months ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Thanks for that. I understand that. Curious if a straight on hit in the magnet should register all or at least most of the time or do you need to hit it a number of times to register. I assume it’s not registering if the bridge doesn’t shake. Mine will not register probably 8 out of 10 times.

It should award stuff if it’s lit for something.

#4471 5 months ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Buy pinwoofers. Sound quality and volume will increase immensely. Worth every penny

For the record, I have pinwoofers on all my tables. The pinwoofers are fantastic, but he was complaining about noise cutting out --- which from everything I can tell across 3 Stern tables I own comes from having the speakers at 8ohm instead of 4ohm. There's just too much juice going to the non-LE speakers at 8ohm. 4ohm sounds much better with or without pinwoofers to me.

#4472 5 months ago

Today I also made my own bridge and add a Godzilla from Bandai.

IMG_20211211_072338 (resized).jpg
IMG_20211211_073551~2 (resized).jpg

#4473 5 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

The speakers sound like shit, and the bass is barely present. The reason I asked the question is that the sound is so bad/mediocre I thought something might be wrong with it. Maybe my Mom got lemons, but they rasp and rip like a Wal-Mart speaker display. And I'm wasting money by trying the 4-ohm setting

Just touching on the guys who immediately replace the speakers, I have never thought the spike audio quality wasn't good. Infact it's much better stock than any other pinball system.

#4474 5 months ago
Quoted from wisefwumyogwave:

Just touching on the guys who immediately replace the speakers, I have never thought the spike audio quality wasn't good. Infact it's much better stock than any other pinball system.

Clearly you haven’t heard Spooky or JJP then. Both embarrass the Stern audio by a huge margin!

#4475 5 months ago
Quoted from retroworld2k:

Today I also made my own bridge and add a Godzilla from Bandai.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Usually I am not much into mods - but your bridge looks really nice and nice Zilla too. Not overdone and looks good in the game. Nice work.

#4476 5 months ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

Clearly you haven’t heard Spooky or JJP then. Both embarrass the Stern audio by a huge margin!

That's just because the sound rotates in the opposite direction down under ya know.

#4477 5 months ago

I worked on the GZ bank a little more and I got him full size under the glass without having to do a fancy head tuck thing everytime glass was removed. I also angled the spot upward. A pull tie around a GZ tail spike and habitrail gives GZ enough lean to do the trick. I also shaved a little off the right GZ elbow and right leg. You must clear the building mech so it will raise and lower so be careful about that, hence the need to shave the right elbow. This way you don't have to cut off the GZ bottom and you can mount GZ as the original was.

PXL_20211211_133555984 (resized).jpg
#4478 5 months ago

Speakers are inexpensive.
First thing I do is replace front and sub in new sterns with much better and inexpensive speakers.

Add in a small $45 amp and you’re in business to crank it up. Feel it

#4479 5 months ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

I have found that changing the pitch and level, even slightly, has a huge impact on how smooth the loop is and also how the ball drops to the upper flipper, and how easy the loop is to make. Couldn't believe how much of a difference a few turn of the leg levelers made.

This game does seem to be especially sensitive to the pitch. Dropping mine down even 1/10 of a degree made a noticeable difference with the ramp and orbit shots.

#4480 5 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Sounds like you need to adjust your building 1st floor position in the game specific settings of the op menu.

I'm finding adjustment #98 Building Stepper Bias with a default of 150. Is that the one to which you refer? Manual is not helpful here.

#4481 5 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

I'm finding adjustment #98 Building Stepper Bias with a default of 150. Is that the one to which you refer? Manual is not helpful here.

So it sounds like you are in the building menu which would be Diagnostics/Game-Specific Tests/Building Stepper Motor Test

Once in that menu you just have to:

1. Close the coin door
2. Press the start button to switch from Move Mode to Adjust Mode (photos below for reference)
3. Use the flipper buttons to adjust the building height so that the entrance is flush with the playfield.

IMG_4613 (resized).jpegIMG_4614 (resized).jpegIMG_4615 (resized).jpegIMG_4616 (resized).jpeg
#4482 5 months ago
Quoted from wtatumjr:

I worked on the GZ bank a little more and I got him full size under the glass without having to do a fancy head tuck thing everytime glass was removed. I also angled the spot upward. A pull tie around a GZ tail spike and habitrail gives GZ enough lean to do the trick. I also shaved a little off the right GZ elbow and right leg. You must clear the building mech so it will raise and lower so be careful about that, hence the need to shave the right elbow. This way you don't have to cut off the GZ bottom and you can mount GZ as the original was.
[quoted image]

Looks great. His left hand isn't going to stop the building from dropping? Maybe it is just the angle of the photo.

#4483 5 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

So it sounds like you are in the building menu which would be Diagnostics/Game-Specific Tests/Building Stepper Motor Test
Once in that menu you just have to:
1. Close the coin door
2. Press the start button to switch from Move Mode to Adjust Mode (photos below for reference)
3. Use the flipper buttons to adjust the building height so that the entrance is flush with the playfield.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

God I love this forum.

That said, I got impatient and from that #98 setting mentioned above, ended up dropping that Bias to 100 from 150. Building is now perfectly flush. Your way still teaches me things I did not know about the menu system however. Did not know you could operate with the door closed. Lots to learn about modern machines I guess!

I wonder if the building being flush will help with SDTM on that tight loop return and / or some fairly common Lock rejects we've been getting?

#4484 5 months ago
Quoted from navajas:

God I love this forum.
That said, I got impatient and from that #98 setting mentioned above, ended up dropping that Bias to 100 from 150. Building is now perfectly flush. Your way still teaches me things I did not know about the menu system however. Did not know you could operate with the door closed. Lots to learn about modern machines I guess!
I wonder if the building being flush will help with SDTM on that tight loop return and / or some fairly common Lock rejects we've been getting?

I’d probably reset the bias to its original number and do the adjustment as outlined just because that is what stern outlines to adjust the building. But glad you got it working. It will def help with lock rejects I think. Not sure about the SDTM but you may want to play a little with left/right leveling of the game to see if it helps with that.

#4485 5 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

Looks great. His left hand isn't going to stop the building from dropping? Maybe it is just the angle of the photo.

No but it's close.
Thanks to whomever came up with this bank mod. Looks great and is pretty cheap!.
Here's the difference better viewed:

PXL_20211211_164054446 (resized).jpg
#4486 5 months ago
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:

*deep exhale* FINALLY.
[quoted image]
That was more of a struggle than most others had with installing, I'd imagine. So little room to light and maneuver over there... But the NECA poster version is on one more machine.
Gotta figure NECA is probably wondering why there's been a sudden run on this particular figure line...

I bought one on eBay the other day. My pro will be delivered by my distributor sometime this month when he heads to Tuscon. The green definitely goes well with the playfield. Was going to use my Godzilla vs Kong figure but it’s so dark I was worried it would be washed out.

#4487 5 months ago

Does Stern have official side art blades available for the Pro/Prem yet?

#4488 5 months ago
Quoted from Hogey:

Thanks for that. I understand that. Curious if a straight on hit in the magnet should register all or at least most of the time or do you need to hit it a number of times to register. I assume it’s not registering if the bridge doesn’t shake. Mine will not register probably 8 out of 10 times.

Never mind. I was under the misconception that you had to keep bashing the magnet to get the bridge to collapse. Saw the ruleset that advises hitting 50 switches (any switches) to light Bridge Attack. Then hit magnet and get the bridge to shake. Then complete another number of switches (40 I believe) and light the Bridge Attack and hit the magnet and get the shake. Lather rinse repeat until it says bridge collapse or integrity zero or whatever. Got the right ramp and bridge collapses and multi ball starts.

My hidden target works fine when the hidden ball hits it.

I appreciate the responses. I’m sure this is common knowledge to most but I was confused and lived that mode and wanted to understand it.

#4489 5 months ago
Quoted from Allibaster:

Does Stern have official side art blades available for the Pro/Prem yet?

Unfortunately not. I ordered a set from wizard mod in the UK.

https://wizardmod.com/collections/wizblades-pinball-blades/products/godzilla-stern-pinball-wizblades

15B19E14-1BD1-4CDA-90B4-09BBC2C167EB (resized).jpeg708835CF-0720-458A-83F4-DBCF2E530A7F (resized).png
#4490 5 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Unfortunately not. I ordered a set from wizard mod in the UK.
https://wizardmod.com/collections/wizblades-pinball-blades/products/godzilla-stern-pinball-wizblades
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wizardmod blades are awesome in this pin, nice and colorful too.

#4491 5 months ago
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:

Unfortunately not. I ordered a set from wizard mod in the UK.
https://wizardmod.com/collections/wizblades-pinball-blades/products/godzilla-stern-pinball-wizblades
[quoted image][quoted image]

Everything Wizards mods sells is great. Check out the speaker surrounds and apron covers as well. Only problem is it takes about 2 weeks to receive your order ( company in Europe)

#4492 5 months ago

Playfield issue notice….need a washer under the rail to the right of the magna grab. Some pretty significant clear coat dust from mine digging in after only 65 plays.

4984B500-4106-436A-8866-E57370AC4CE9 (resized).jpeg
#4493 5 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

Playfield issue notice….need a washer under the rail to the right of the magna grab. Some pretty significant clear coat dust from mine digging in after only 65 plays.[quoted image]

How much trouble was it to get enough access there to get the rail pulled up that much? Just the one plastic, GZ clear plastic, and a few screws topside/nuts underneath? Nothing more involved with the building to remove, etc?

I've been eying that area on mine already too, as that rail looked suspect. Some of the others seen to be bent/constructed differently to avoid this. That part of that rail looks to just be vertical rail tightened directly against the PF... I think I'll throw a washer on mine and double check the other rail there too while at it.

#4494 5 months ago
Quoted from Palmer:

I’d probably reset the bias to its original number and do the adjustment as outlined just because that is what stern outlines to adjust the building. But glad you got it working. It will def help with lock rejects I think. Not sure about the SDTM but you may want to play a little with left/right leveling of the game to see if it helps with that.

Did so. Works great.

There is definitely something wrong with these speakers though, sounds like left is the worst. How is Stern with warranty issues? These things crackle, rip and pop even on low-ish volume at 4ohm.

#4495 5 months ago
Quoted from PinKopf:

How much trouble was it to get enough access there to get the rail pulled up that much? Just the one plastic, GZ clear plastic, and a few screws topside/nuts underneath? Nothing more involved with the building to remove, etc?
I've been eying that area on mine already too, as that rail looked suspect. Some of the others seen to be bent/constructed differently to avoid this. That part of that rail looks to just be vertical rail tightened directly against the PF... I think I'll throw a washer on mine and double check the other rail there too while at it.

Remove plastic, one screw topside and one nut underneath-

#4496 5 months ago

Yep, just finished adding a bit of Mylar and washer to mine - similar scuffing/damage.

I also went ahead and added washers under both bolts on the opposite side magnet rail and a think piece of Mylar also. That rail has a folded bit that in theory should prevent most cutting into the clearcoat, but there is a bit at the end that still to me liooks like it could scuff. I'm debating if those washers on that side are a good idea though. That rail is really short with just the two bolts - I presume that flat piece may be to give it more surface area to clamp down against the Playfield? Aka maybe the washers are a bad idea.
20211211_160116 (resized).jpg20211211_161219 (resized).jpg20211211_162058 (resized).jpg

#4497 5 months ago

RIP Michael Nesmith.... Can we put this in the game?

#4498 5 months ago

not what you like to happen during megalon/rodan/godzilla multiball...had to wait for ball search for release

20211211_161449 (resized).jpg
#4499 5 months ago
Quoted from Plungerboy:

Playfield issue notice….need a washer under the rail to the right of the magna grab. Some pretty significant clear coat dust from mine digging in after only 65 plays.[quoted image]

I've been resisting the temptation to play my LE. Not going to play first ball until all of the protectors I want are installed and I have washers in place under any offending rails. Thinking of using clear washers to do the job. Maybe silicone?

#4500 5 months ago

How much harder is it to address the

Quoted from PinKopf:

Yep, just finished adding a bit of Mylar and washer to mine - similar scuffing/damage.
I also went ahead and added washers under both bolts on the opposite side magnet rail and a think piece of Mylar also. That rail has a folded bit that I theory should prevent most cuting into the clearcoat, but the is a bit at the end that still to me like like it could scuff. I'm debating if those washers on side are a good idea.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

How much harder is it to address this issue on the Prem/LE. Bridge is more complicated than the Pro.

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