(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

2 years ago


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25 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 27,071 posts in this topic. You are on page 395 of 542.
#19701 1 year ago

I was asked to design a Godzilla sign for someone's gameroom. It will be very similar in size to the Bond sign below (18 x 26 inches). The below signs will give you an idea of the quality. They are made from wood and hand painted. If you may have some interest in the sign, PM to get on the pre-sale list. Thanks very much.

458769C6-59DB-45D4-A713-7610B7F29BE0 (resized).png458769C6-59DB-45D4-A713-7610B7F29BE0 (resized).png68C0BCC1-43F4-4A25-9A64-75497FAD5514 (resized).jpeg68C0BCC1-43F4-4A25-9A64-75497FAD5514 (resized).jpegAB8A798C-B71A-4FE8-A6D9-69587471C084 (resized).jpegAB8A798C-B71A-4FE8-A6D9-69587471C084 (resized).jpeg1E0C0BC1-F79A-44B5-9C48-EEF31A1BC34F (resized).jpeg1E0C0BC1-F79A-44B5-9C48-EEF31A1BC34F (resized).jpeg484BF9C9-F0CE-4D05-8111-B8661B110DAE (resized).jpeg484BF9C9-F0CE-4D05-8111-B8661B110DAE (resized).jpeg
#19702 1 year ago
Quoted from mjmpin:

Another minor annoyance I was working on today - once in a while (I'm certain others have experienced) when I shoot the ball through the right spinner it bounces up and gets stuck between mecha's arm and the side wall, no releasing it until you take the glass off, ugh. I was carefully trying to bend mecha's arm in slightly, but the plastic memory tends to eventually bring it back. Putting a silicone dot on the wall doesn't help, any other suggestions or ways to keep his arm bent in a bit?
thanks!

Mine sometime bounces into the wireform, but never had it bounce like that. Maybe turn your flipper strength down a bit?

#19703 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Tighten it completely. If that's not enough, use a little loctite blue. You don't want to use the permanent Loctite red or superglue as it would be extremely difficult to remove the screw in the future if you wanted to.

thanks!!!

#19704 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

No don't do that. Cut a template, then peel and cut off an inch of backing. Set it in the top, pull rest of backing off and push mylar into the groove first. Then the edges, then razor cut out the switch. 5 minute job,just did Cactus last night

If you don’t mind clarify for me friend

It’s too late. I already did it to all five of my games so you’re basically saying cut a large piece to cover the entire shooter lane or the bottom part where the wear happens

When you press the mylar down it will press the switch down, then just cut around the switch to make the switch rise again is that correct?

I have a really bad learning disability, so it took me a few hours to do all that and I cut like 1 million pieces of Mylar ; I knew there had to be an easier way lol.

#19705 1 year ago
Quoted from BrokenChair:

If you don’t mind clarify for me friend
It’s too late. I already did it to all five of my games so you’re basically saying cut a large piece to cover the entire shooter lane or the bottom part where the wear happens
When you press the mylar down it will press the switch down, then just cut around the switch to make the switch rise again is that correct?
I have a really bad learning disability, so it took me a few hours to do all that and I cut like 1 million pieces of Mylar ; I knew there had to be an easier way lol.

Just the eject area, about 4" is all I do. You could do the whole lane if you wanted, but not needed. Once you lay down the mylar, a razor cut around the notch is all you need to do.

#19706 1 year ago

So happy adding this to my GZ. Can't wait for the Noodle Bar mod next. Thanks Stumblor!

20230319_140237~2 (resized).jpg20230319_140237~2 (resized).jpg
#19707 1 year ago
Quoted from BrokenChair:

If you don’t mind clarify for me friend
It’s too late. I already did it to all five of my games so you’re basically saying cut a large piece to cover the entire shooter lane or the bottom part where the wear happens
When you press the mylar down it will press the switch down, then just cut around the switch to make the switch rise again is that correct?
I have a really bad learning disability, so it took me a few hours to do all that and I cut like 1 million pieces of Mylar ; I knew there had to be an easier way lol.

HurryUp pinball has a video for putting mylar on the shooter lane. I found it very helpful. It aligns with hayfarmer's comments and is a nice visual aid...


(the video shows how to mylar the drain area, if you're also interested in that)

#19708 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

Anyone have the wizardmods art blades? Easy to get on and reposition as they claim?

I have them on my GZ and I think they look great.

I found them easy to re-position until I got them where I wanted them, but I did use a light spray of Rapid-Tac as well. May not have been needed, buit didn't hurt.

I test-fit them to each side first and I did have to trim maybe a few mm off the very back end because it was running into the metal brackets all the way at the back.

Once I had them in place I used a plastic slicker and a soft cloth to finish them down, with some elbow grease.

If you dont have a set of the PInball Universe blade protectors, get them and use them every time you lift the playfield.

RussM

#19709 1 year ago
Quoted from mjmpin:

Another minor annoyance I was working on today - once in a while (I'm certain others have experienced) when I shoot the ball through the right spinner it bounces up and gets stuck between mecha's arm and the side wall, no releasing it until you take the glass off, ugh. I was carefully trying to bend mecha's arm in slightly, but the plastic memory tends to eventually bring it back. Putting a silicone dot on the wall doesn't help, any other suggestions or ways to keep his arm bent in a bit?
thanks!

Some ideas: 1) reduce the left flipper power, 2) adjust the metal guide along the mech mini-ramp slightly to the left, if possible, or 3) take a heat gun to the arm and permanently bend it in a bit. I suggest doing that 3rd option as last resort, but I believe others have done that with success. There may be additional options that searching this thread may uncover. These were the ones that came to mind.

#19710 1 year ago
Quoted from RussMyers:

I test-fit them to each side first and I did have to trim maybe a few mm off the very back end because it was running into the metal brackets all the way at the back.

Same here. Alternate solution: loosen the metal brackets first, fit the blades and tighten the brackets after that over the blades. Found that way easier than to cut something off the blades. Great quality blades, can easily be put in the dry way as well, you don't even have to take the playfield out.

#19711 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

Anyone have the wizardmods art blades? Easy to get on and reposition as they claim?

I have the wizard blades on JP and GOTG and have his latest GZ set ready to install once the machine arrives. They are easy to install using the dry method I have talked about previously. Material is great and printing is vivid.

#19712 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

Tighten it completely. If that's not enough, use a little loctite blue. You don't want to use the permanent Loctite red or superglue as it would be extremely difficult to remove the screw in the future if you wanted to.

But before you tighten, make sure the bridge plastic is pushed all the way to the right, away from the other plastic. Those two plastics have a habit of rubbing together and causing the bridge to hang up.

#19713 1 year ago
Quoted from PanzerKraken:

Anyone have the wizardmods art blades? Easy to get on and reposition as they claim?

I put Wizard blades in my Bond and I had never done them before. I was pretty concerned about it, went in feeling like there was a 50% chance it would end up a mess and I’d have to toss them. Turns out it was much easier to do than I expected. First side took me a little bit as I fiddled around a bunch making sure I knew how “repositionable” they really were. Second blade took me about 5 minutes. Good stuff and they seem quite durable, although I always use plastic protectors as mentioned above.

#19714 1 year ago

Traded out my pro this weekend for a premium. Love it and loaded it up. But to swing back to the shooter lane protection, I was hesitant to try Mylar so I am trying out one of the pindefender things from the Pinside shops. So far so good, it took 5 minutes to install, no issues since and multiple games played. Time will tell how durable it is.

#19715 1 year ago
Quoted from NovaCade:

Traded out my pro this weekend for a premium. Love it and loaded it up. But to swing back to the shooter lane protection, I was hesitant to try Mylar so I am trying out one of the pindefender things from the Pinside shops. So far so good, it took 5 minutes to install, no issues since and multiple games played. Time will tell how durable it is.

I just installed pindefenders on all our games and they work great. Good product, good service. Awaiting one for FF now

#19716 1 year ago

Installed comet fire bulbs and fire post LED. Really like them.

#19717 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

I just installed pindefenders on all our games and they work great. Good product, good service. Awaiting one for FF now

I’m Thinking are getting these too even though I manually applied Mylar on all 5 of my games today ;

Installation in these pin defenders Easy?

Any potential problems or issues with the like raising the ball Higher or balls getting sent back to trough?

They look nice

#19718 1 year ago
Quoted from mrossman5:

2 out of 3 have broke on my game. I tried super glue but it just won’t stay.

Quoted from moTiv8:

my Tesla Tower has broken

Yeah, mine took an airball awhile ago. When you consider the damage created by the mass, velocity and impact of those balls, these and other 3D printed things are never going to last forever. But for roughly $100 I don't expect more or mind fixing them as long as possible and maybe evey 5 years replace the entire set.

I have had excellent success with using a 3M mounting tape splint. Then cover the front side with your badge or sticker of choice.
For me, a Stealie makes everything better. If you want to keep with the electric theme, I did have a lightning bolt on there before which also looked great. This has taken additional airballs and has needed to be "re-repaired/repositioned" a couple of times. But, the mounting tape splint system has been great for me.

For those curious the lightning bolts (and other excellent stuff) can be found here: https://grateful-fred.com/products/the-grateful-dead-chrome-bolt
(no, I have no affiliation, just love his stuff)

Tesla Tower back (resized).jpgTesla Tower back (resized).jpgTesla Tower front side (resized).jpgTesla Tower front side (resized).jpg
#19719 1 year ago
Quoted from BrokenChair:

I’m Thinking is getting these too even though I manually applied Mylar on all 5 of my games today ;
Installation in these pin defenders Easy?
Any potential problems or issues with the like raising the ball Higher or balls getting sent back to trough?

Ya. Lift playfield, remove 3 or 4 screws from the rail, position it, I put back down and plunged a few to make sure and tightened back up. Easy as can be.

#19720 1 year ago
Quoted from BFaster:

Yeah, mine took an airball awhile ago. When you consider the damage created by the mass, velocity and impact of those balls, these and other 3D printed things are never going to last forever. But for roughly $100 I don't expect more or mind fixing them as long as possible and maybe evey 5 years replace the entire set.
I have had excellent success with using a 3M mounting tape splint. Then cover the front side with your badge or sticker of choice.
For me, a Stealie makes everything better. If you want to keep with the electric theme, I did have a lightning bolt on there before which also looked great. This has taken additional airballs and has needed to be "re-repaired/repositioned" a couple of times. But, the mounting tape splint system has been great for me.
For those curious the lightning bolts (and other excellent stuff) can be found here: https://grateful-fred.com/products/the-grateful-dead-chrome-bolt
(no, I have no affiliation, just love his stuff) [quoted image][quoted image]

I'm not really a deadhead, but I think this is an awesome solution!

#19721 1 year ago

So I’ve been playing a new way .Straight to battle and fight Ebirah ,build the Heat Ray during and hopefully win ,straight to second city no matter the result ,work on power ups and get the 5x JP (all this time Saucer Attack MB will be calling me ), fight the urge , get Heat Ray ready , and start second fight ,this time vs Gigan unless I have balls locked already ,then If so Titanosaurus .It’s been working nicely .I’m finally breaking through the side mission urge wall

#19722 1 year ago

Hi during bridge multiball when the super jackpot is lit the bridge does not stay collapsed. The bridge shakes correctly and falls when I start bridge multiball but it does not stay collapsed when it should when super jackpot is lit. Is their a opto sensor under their or something? Any help is greatly appreciated.

#19723 12 months ago
Quoted from BFaster:

Yeah, mine took an airball awhile ago. When you consider the damage created by the mass, velocity and impact of those balls, these and other 3D printed things are never going to last forever. But for roughly $100 I don't expect more or mind fixing them as long as possible and maybe evey 5 years replace the entire set.
I have had excellent success with using a 3M mounting tape splint. Then cover the front side with your badge or sticker of choice.
For me, a Stealie makes everything better. If you want to keep with the electric theme, I did have a lightning bolt on there before which also looked great. This has taken additional airballs and has needed to be "re-repaired/repositioned" a couple of times. But, the mounting tape splint system has been great for me.
For those curious the lightning bolts (and other excellent stuff) can be found here: https://grateful-fred.com/products/the-grateful-dead-chrome-bolt
(no, I have no affiliation, just love his stuff) [quoted image][quoted image]

Thx I will try it.

#19724 12 months ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Hi during bridge multiball when the super jackpot is lit the bridge does not stay collapsed. The bridge shakes correctly and falls when I start bridge multiball but it does not stay collapsed when it should when super jackpot is lit. Is their a opto sensor under their or something? Any help is greatly appreciated.

I don’t think it ever stays collapsed.

#19725 12 months ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Added the Speaker Light Kit! [quoted image]

Bold! Nicely done!

#19726 12 months ago
Quoted from Nokoro:

But before you tighten, make sure the bridge plastic is pushed all the way to the right, away from the other plastic. Those two plastics have a habit of rubbing together and causing the bridge to hang up.

#19727 12 months ago
Quoted from Pinballpal:

Hi during bridge multiball when the super jackpot is lit the bridge does not stay collapsed. The bridge shakes correctly and falls when I start bridge multiball but it does not stay collapsed when it should when super jackpot is lit. Is their a opto sensor under their or something? Any help is greatly appreciated.

Mine does the same exact thing friend I think the game is fine ….it does it’s spasm collapses then at the end goes back together doesn’t stay collapsed

#19728 12 months ago
Quoted from moTiv8:

During Gameplay my Tesla Tower has broken (there was no hit with the ball).
I am dissapointed of the stability.
Was from the first run.[quoted image][quoted image]

You probably can repair with soldering iron... just wear a mask & carefully weld/fuse the plastic together with a little bit of heat.

#19729 12 months ago

I’ve been looking through the key topics for something on adjusting the bridge if it’s opening up too quick on BAMB .I seen one for adjusting the plastics but not of timing .Last night the ball was falling through as it should so I’m wondering if it’s just a ball speed thing where it’s going to miss here and there .

#19730 12 months ago

OK, one of the issues I have on my brand new Godzilla is that I found broken pieces of black plastic rear glass channel left in cabinet.

Obviously there was some issue when the first plastic rear glass channel was installed, and they removed it, breaking it into pieces, and not cleaning all the pieces up.

However, the current rear glass channel is installed bowed down in the middle, and I can only get glass in by prying up on channel at rear center when putting the glass back.

Usually this would not be a big deal but Stern isn't using screws or even staples for this any more, and I unable to figure out how to move channel without enough force to break it - may be glued or double-sided taped in?

Has anyone actually removed this style of channel from a recent Stern?

RussM

IMG_0795 (resized).JPGIMG_0795 (resized).JPGIMG_0797 (resized).JPGIMG_0797 (resized).JPG
#19731 12 months ago
Quoted from acedanger:

You probably can repair with soldering iron... just wear a mask & carefully weld/fuse the plastic together with a little bit of heat.

definitely do not do this. the plastic will deform before it gets hot enough to bond. You'll ruin it.

Just use superglue... for a bit more stability you could also superglue a small splint on the back where you can't see.

#19732 12 months ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

definitely do not do this. the plastic will deform before it gets hot enough to bond. You'll ruin it.
Just use superglue... for a bit more stability you could also superglue a small splint on the back where you can't see.

I've been 3d printing for years & building props. Super glue/activator doesn't hold long term. Trust me yes it will deform slightly but go slow & weld it use at a low temp. It will never break in that spot again. If you are worried about it looking bad you can use some bondo with acetone & brush over then sand/paint. I'm pretty sure that I know what I'm talking about . Trust me there's not enough surface area to apply superglue the plastic will just crack apart a splint will work but IMO welding is the most effective repair.
IMG_4222 (resized).jpgIMG_4222 (resized).jpg

IMG_4199 (resized).JPGIMG_4199 (resized).JPG

#19733 12 months ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

So I’ve been playing a new way .Straight to battle and fight Ebirah ,build the Heat Ray during and hopefully win ,straight to second city no matter the result ,work on power ups and get the 5x JP (all this time Saucer Attack MB will be calling me ), fight the urge , get Heat Ray ready , and start second fight ,this time vs Gigan unless I have balls locked already ,then If so Titanosaurus .It’s been working nicely .I’m finally breaking through the side mission urge wall

I’m going to try this. I have been fighting Gigan first and Ebirah second, but maybe saving Gigan for second is the way to go. It will certainly help me improve against Ebirah.

I tend to try to get one side mission completed after each Kaiju for an average carnage bonus of ~20-30M, then change cities. I’m also a big fan of getting through the fighter attack early and often to get the extra ball. I try and avoid the saucer and let those come naturally during multi-ball as it can be a dangerous shot otherwise.

#19734 12 months ago
Quoted from acedanger:

I've been 3d printing for years & building props. Super glue/activator doesn't hold long term. Trust me yes it will deform slightly but go slow & weld it use at a low temp. It will never break in that spot again. If you are worried about it looking bad you can use some bondo with acetone & brush over then sand/paint. I'm pretty sure that I know what I'm talking about . Trust me there's not enough surface area to apply superglue the plastic will just crack apart a splint will work but IMO welding is the most effective repair.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

FUCKING AWESOME

*not the weldiing the props!!

#19735 12 months ago
Quoted from acedanger:

I've been 3d printing for years & building props. Super glue/activator doesn't hold long term. Trust me yes it will deform slightly but go slow & weld it use at a low temp. It will never break in that spot again. If you are worried about it looking bad you can use some bondo with acetone & brush over then sand/paint. I'm pretty sure that I know what I'm talking about . Trust me there's not enough surface area to apply superglue the plastic will just crack apart a splint will work but IMO welding is the most effective repair.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

Those are really cool. Here's my e-peen:

Anyway. He will probably ruin it with a soldering iron. super glue will work fine. He literally just needs one piece to sit on top of another piece until it gets smashed by a ball and breaks again (Sure, maybe it won't break in your weld spot again but it will break at one of the other 1000ish layer laminations.)

Fun fact: the arms of the tower are glued on by the mod maker.
Second fun fact: intentionally broke mine as soon as I got it so I could rotate it 90 degrees (dont like how one is not facing same way as others). Guess how I reattached it? 1500+ games later and it's still perfectly fine.

#19736 12 months ago

What number is this plastic from a Godzilla Premium. I'm thinking it's on the left side of building. Maybe -17
Thanks

PXL_20230320_211415205~2 (resized).jpgPXL_20230320_211415205~2 (resized).jpg
#19737 12 months ago

Four more to go. So here's two at a time.
I think the bottom picture is top right -15

PXL_20230320_211320487~2 (resized).jpgPXL_20230320_211320487~2 (resized).jpgPXL_20230320_211355635~2 (resized).jpgPXL_20230320_211355635~2 (resized).jpg
#19738 12 months ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Those are really cool. Here's my e-peen:
Anyway. He will probably ruin it with a soldering iron. super glue will work fine. He literally just needs one piece to sit on top of another piece until it gets smashed by a ball and breaks again (Sure, maybe it won't break in your weld spot again but it will break at one of the other 1000ish layer laminations.)
Fun fact: the arms of the tower are glued on by the mod maker.
Second fun fact: intentionally broke mine as soon as I got it so I could rotate it 90 degrees (dont like how one is not facing same way as others). Guess how I reattached it? 1500+ games later and it's still perfectly fine.

Person ally I have had the worst luck with super glueing pieces of plastic together; I have had much success with welding it does take some experience. I do not own this mod so I'm not sure how many mm it is in all fairness. Even without a direct hit I would think from all the vibrations alone & it would crack off again. But good point even if its welded well ball could still hit & crack it another stress point.

Very cool Mod!! Rush I'm guessing? lol If I need to use glue I usually will use epoxy but with really small items such as this it's almost impossible to get the applicator to do a clean job!! Carry-on I guess we all do what works best for all of us.

#19739 12 months ago

I use a dab of JB weld for any plastics. Works great

#19740 12 months ago
Quoted from Mattyk:

I use a dab of JB weld for any plastics. Works great

I use this version of JBWeld just to cover all bases:

https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-50133-Tan-1-Pack/dp/B009EU5ZNO/ref=asc_df_B009EU5ZNO

but I see Superglue has their own version of a plastic fusion adhesive (but haven't tried it yet):

https://www.amazon.com/Super-Glue-Plastic-Fusion-Adhesive/dp/B000LGT0GI

#19741 12 months ago

Anyone can tell me how to remove the action button on the lockbar? I tried turning the big hex nut with a channel lock but it wont get out.

Same thing with the little bolt at the end on the side rails(by the flipper buttons) whats the best way to remove them?

Thx

#19742 12 months ago
Quoted from Paseb:

Anyone can tell me how to remove the action button on the lockbar? I tried turning the big hex nut with a channel lock but it wont get out.
Same thing with the little bolt at the end on the side rails(by the flipper buttons) whats the best way to remove them?
Thx

Hold the button from the top with some grippy gloves while you loosen the hex nut.

Nut driver for the nuts by the flipper buttons.

#19743 12 months ago

Hey all, need some quick advice on this before I dig in. Playing Godzilla this evening, and suddenly during a game the shaker motor started running consistently full speed ?!?! Then when I opened the door, smoke & strong component cook smell ?!?!

Unplugged shaker from node board. Pin seems to play fine, no noted issues. Cannot see any damage on the node board. but if I connect shaker connector it immediately is running continuously full speed.

what happened & what cooked?

It is a premium machine with a stern shaker installed. so nothing unusual. Has been installed since I bought the game - have been playing it with the shaker for 3 months

thanks!

mike

#19744 12 months ago

Sounds like the shaker shit the bed. Might need replaced.

#19745 12 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Sounds like the shaker shit the bed. Might need replaced.

Thanks Chuck for quick reply, but... shaker actually spins/runs when connected. I was thinking the issue is the node board? ie why is it sending current to the shaker.

Also, just now with the game on, but shaker not connected, I ran shaker test in coil tests, the red LED on the node board right above the shaker connector went on & the board started smoking, so immediately powered off. Can something be wrong in the shaker motor that could cause this? Sure seems like I'll need a node board. wondering how I can test the shaker - it spins & sounds fine, but.....

mike

#19746 12 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

What number is this plastic from a Godzilla Premium. I'm thinking it's on the left side of building. Maybe -17
Thanks
[quoted image]

Yes, this one appears to be -17

#19747 12 months ago
Quoted from Spiderpin:

Four more to go. So here's two at a time.
I think the bottom picture is top right -15[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm pretty sure the top picture is -20... (to the rear left of the building)

The bottom one I can't figure out...

#19748 12 months ago
Quoted from mjmpin:

Thanks Chuck for quick reply, but... shaker actually spins/runs when connected. I was thinking the issue is the node board? ie why is it sending current to the shaker.
Also, just now with the game on, but shaker not connected, I ran shaker test in coil tests, the red LED on the node board right above the shaker connector went on & the board started smoking, so immediately powered off. Can something be wrong in the shaker motor that could cause this? Sure seems like I'll need a node board. wondering how I can test the shaker - it spins & sounds fine, but.....
mike

Shaker could have shorted, damaged the board or vice versa. Not sure. But your board is definitely damaged as you proved via test.

#19749 12 months ago

I discovered this broken piece on the playfield. I have looked everywhere for the part it belongs to. Any ideas?? It looks like a piece around the shield spinner. Same color and the spinner has similar dots.

2E70B792-3D29-4DAB-B0A6-1B0F07ABFBB1 (resized).jpeg2E70B792-3D29-4DAB-B0A6-1B0F07ABFBB1 (resized).jpeg
#19750 12 months ago

any news about a stern topper for this wonderful game?

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Electronics
From: $ 15.00
Cabinet - Other
NO GOUGE PINBALL™
Other
From: $ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Gameroom Mods
Protection
From: $ 33.00
Gameroom - Decorations
Rocket City Pinball
Decorations
€ 110.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
Toys/Add-ons
10,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Hilton Head Island, SC
$ 29.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ScottieIA Mods
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 24.95
6,500 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Plattsburgh, NY
$ 60.00
Tools
Performance Pinball
Tools
From: $ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
arcade-cabinets.com
Toys/Add-ons
$ 15.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
Protection
$ 28.50
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
Toys/Add-ons
€ 95.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Pino Pinball Mods Shop
Toys/Add-ons
$ 74.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Hookedonpinball.com
Toys/Add-ons
From: $ 1.25
Hardware
Pinball Haven
Hardware
$ 5.00
Lighting - Backbox
Gameroom Mods
Backbox
$ 75.00
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
JuanSolo's modshop
Toys/Add-ons
Great pinball charity
Pinball Edu
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