True but the cost has to be justified though. The plastic flipper bats last a long time and are so cheap to buy. Not taking away from yours and they are cool, just a tough sell unfortunately for something that can be had cheaply and that are not replaced all the time.

Might want to design some coil stops. Now that’s something that needs replaced on sterns.

GREAT idea!

BallyKISS1978 Thanks for the comments, and I like that you do think they are cool.

Sure plastic is dirt cheap, it works fine. But for those players looking to have options with ease of adjustment that is what this system offers. The objetive was not to just simply replace the plastic bats, it's more than that, players now have the option to easily change the style of flipper bat, longer, shorter, and different colors quickly and easily! And there are more shapes in testing.

Design some Coil Stops, Hmmm.., think I'll pass on that

I like that you can adjust the flipper angle top-side; that would be super convenient! What are the two unused screw holes for?

I haven't checked the other thread but I'm wondering about the weight difference and if that difference increases the wear of the flipper coils and linkage over time due to carrying and moving the extra weight.

arzoo Thanks for the comments. You hit on a good point, with this system you don't have to go under the playfield to deal with the flippers anymore, all adjustment is done up top. When you want to remove and or adjust the flipper bats the two screw holes on top is what allows for the adjust to be made. So basically in the time it takes to remove the glass you can remove or just adjust the flipper angle.

I would like to think that perhaps I did the pinball community a service by removing the 'PITA factor' with having to deal with adjusting the flipper bats!

SimplePin Thanks for commenting. The flipper bats weigh 22 grams, and so far with all the testing done over the past eight months all seems good. What I did find disturbing while developing this mod was the flipper shaft bushings have way to much clearance in them. That's a bunch of wasted energy lost with all the play between the shaft and bushing. I'm working on testing new metalic bushings now, so far so good.

Just unscrew everything and remove plastic loop for the wire.

Here is what I did for the ball hang ups behind the mechagodzilla spinner ramp. Based on the above picture of using a post. Thanks

20220620_161105 (resized).jpg

I put a circuit board stand off post that threads into a m3. I had to shorten the spacer height between the two plastics to make the screw reach the pcb stand off.

If this works I will probably find a longer screw so i can go back to the stock spacers between the two plastics marked #59

I had an odd Ebirah multiball glitch.

At one point I had all of the Spinners completed. Hit Mothra outlane and for a second they showed
the initial values had reset. This happened for about 1-3ish seconds before the ball drained down the Mothra
outlane and end ball sequence began. Next ball and after I activated mode it was back to 0 0 0 and pop bumper hit and everything was peachy.

Okay, just for the record, keeping your fingers crossed works! Just received my invoice today, GZ premium ships tomorrow! I should be flipping before the weekend. I ordered back in mid December and have a closet full of mods to add. Life is good!

For staged flipping, then, it seems like I should make an adjustment so that more flipper button depression is necessary to actuate the upper flipper, so that it's easier (with less button depression) to actuate only the lower flipper. Right now, my left flipper switch is set so that only a hair of button depression separates actuating only the lower flipper vs actuating both upper & lower flippers. I'll try to change that to 1,000 hairs or so.

That long post you can take off with a nut driver that's the right size, both ends of it have a hole in it since the screw is bolted to the play field it'll come off without affecting the screw itself, I just did this recently on Stranger Things to install the UV light kit as they have the same hexagonal posts to support the ramps.

The only thing to keep in mind is when screwing it back on just make sure it's snug but don't over tighten it

I pity the fool who doesn't think that's a great idea.

I did this a few weeks back.

IMG_1455 (resized).jpeg

Thanks for the info!

Let me know if you want any photoshop/artwork files

I would love the template!

LOL, packing tape “laminated” on mine

CB7E510B-8BA9-488A-AEB8-BCF6CB5D9A34 (resized).jpeg

Awesome!

Finally joined the club officially today! Mine was born May 28, and she's a beauty. Can't believe I have a Godzilla Premium in the house. How will I ever get anything else done?

Can anyone do me a favor and show me a pic of your shooter rod tip position? I feel like mine is not up far enough. Thank you!

I “laminate” with gorilla tape! It does an awesome job.

I'm trying to eliminate the places on the pf where the ball gets stuck during live action. The pic shows where the ball occasionally gets stuck at the entrance to the building. Does anyone know if the building can be raised a tiny bit relative to the pf to prevent this? Has anyone had this issue and solved it?
Thanks

IMG_3518 (resized).jpg

This is a common place for the ball to hang up on a weak shot, I just deal with it as it doesn't happen too often.

Here are 2-pics. The shooter rod tip is 7/16" back from the edge of the wood. I've had no issues with the shooter.

IMG_3521 (resized).jpg

IMG_3523 (resized).jpg

Out of 11,000 posts on this thread 14 are stickied. Worth a read..one of them tells you how to adjust building height..very easy through the menu..

Thanks, Sorokyl,
I figured that this was discussed before somewhere. Pls excuse my ignorance, but how do I find where this topic is discussed w/o searching thru all 11K posts? I've tried googling this, and I tried a keyword search on Pinside with no luck.

Go to top of this page click on "show topic index" scroll down to building adjustment.luck

Screenshot_20220620-202052 (resized).png

Thank you. Mine is about that distance too. If it isn't a full plunge, it seems a little wonky, but that might just be the diverter bar by mechagodzilla. Do you just want to full plunge every time?

Thank you. That seems to be about the distance of mine too. I have only had my pin for a few days... do you always want to full plunge the ball or is there any kind of finesse shot?

This is my first new Stern, so I'm wondering, is it normal to hear a loud fan noise from the backbox once in a while, even when the game is idle? That thing is loud as hell! Makes me want to turn the pin off instead of leaving it on for the light show when I'm not playing.

Unfortunately yes. The good news is that there is a fix: https://pinmonk.com/products/spike-quiet-fan-plug-n-play-kit

Thanks for that!

Anyone else having issues with the ball being plunged all the way to the upper level where Mecha Godzilla sits? I've never seen this happen on location, but it's happened a bunch on mine since I got it. The ball can then stay stuck behind Mecha's arm or behind that nut near the base.

This happens after manual plunge, never auto plunge.

My auto plunge was doing it quite often, so I dialed the power for it down. All good now. I have never done it with manual plunge..but I am usually not firing it as hard as possible (as there's no reason to)

There are at least 4 different skillshots . Stern has a rulesheet you can find on their website for the game that describes them..the farthest one is to shoot up and behind the upper flipper..

The shot behind my upper flipper has never worked because the bail isn't long enough to cover the gap and record the shot when the ball passes through. So, I never even consider that shot.

I can empathize....get ready for some sore elbows

I emailed myself a screenshot of the stern insider QR code. Printed out on the thermal printer i have for shipping labels. Cut it out and stuck it on an old expired casino slot machine money card. Just leave it sit on the glass for easy scanning.

Works 95% on mine

I randomly print them out from the Stern Insider Connected thread.

I use an iPhone. I took a screen shot of my QR code. Then cropped it. Then saved the cropped photo to an Apple Note. Then went to the widget screen (swipe right when phone is either locked or unlocked). Added a single Notes access widget, and selected the QR note. So a swipe right and a tap and its available on my phone.

Ok, that was dumb. I just held up the web browser on my phone pointed to Pinside images to the QR reader and of course it worked. I’ll just stop that crap right now.

I’ve never liked QR codes, and I very rarely scan them with my phone. They seem very easy to exploit. As we went to that at restaurants recently I always thought about how easy it would be to print out a malicious QR that included a site with the menu and a bit of “extra”. Heck, hide it in the corner of a window near the menu board and someone will scan it.

My apologies to those that just “played” my Godzilla after posting their QR codes into a public forum.

Ha! Just checked my stats. DAVEH's Gameroom! LOL. At least you got a decent score and didn't bring down my average! LOL LOL

The ring around my tilt bob isn't straight, the plumb doesn't hang evenly in the middle of the ring. Does this mean it was installed crooked, or that my pin is at a strange angle? My playfield is at 6.5° which isn't that steep.

As soon as i nudge the game i get a total tilt. I'm guessing someone has seen this before?

PXL_20220621_143751409 (resized).jpg

you can loosen those two screws and move your ring to more center, if needed.

I adjusted the ring on mine so the plumb bob sits in the middle of the ring. Then you can adjust sensitivity by moving the bob up or down.

The ring is very bendable metal. Common for it to be a bit crooked when it's delivered. Just bend it so the ring is parallel with the floor and so it's centered around the tilt bob. It's a 1 minute fix.

Appreciate the replies! Keep on flipping.

Stern has a special breed of blind moles installing tilt hardware in current games...