(Topic ID: 300354)

Stern Godzilla Official Owners Club King Elwin

By beltking

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

25 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 27,662 posts in this topic. You are on page 547 of 554.
#27301 43 days ago
Quoted from Mully911:

Went to PinBrew and picked up two sheets of Voodoo glass for my Godzilla and Monster Bash remake. Anyone ever sell the original glass?

i have purchased the original glass from someone who did that exact same thing. super nice to get non scratched glass on and older beat up machine.

#27302 43 days ago
Quoted from badfish981:

Easy process to replace the T molding?

Super simple. When you take the old one off you can see how they cut it for corners..just start the new one at the bottom, and when you get to a corner, make a cut. I'm sure there are videos.

#27303 43 days ago
Quoted from badfish981:

Easy process to replace the T molding?

Yup. 20-feet of wooden channel, and press-fit plastic T-molding made for that space. Really quite easy....

#27304 43 days ago

After having issues with a friends premium for a few months , I've tracked down problem, originally game was dead, I found power distribution board had a fried chip. Ordered new board, installed , blew up instantly. After months I found the issue. The Magna Grab magnet fried. Game will finally boot with it unplugged. I've ordered another board and magnet coil, should there have been something to prevent the board from blowing? And should I look for anything that would have caused the magnet to do this before installing the 2nd new board and new magnet?

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#27305 43 days ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

After having issues with a friends premium for a few months , I've tracked down problem, originally game was dead, I found power distribution board had a fried chip. Ordered new board, installed , blew up instantly. After months I found the issue. The Magna Grab magnet fried. Game will finally boot with it unplugged. I've ordered another board and magnet coil, should there have been something to prevent the board from blowing? And should I look for anything that would have caused the magnet to do this before installing the 2nd new board and new magnet?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

You have peaked my interest as I have a premium also. But no issues yet.
What is the build date of your machine?
How many plays are on it?
Where did you order parts, or was it under Stern Warranty?
How much were the parts if you had to buy them?

#27306 43 days ago
Quoted from Tophervette:

You have peaked my interest as I have a premium also. But no issues yet.
What is the build date of your machine?
How many plays are on it?
Where did you order parts, or was it under Stern Warranty?
How much were the parts if you had to buy them?

March of 2022, 1 owner, maybe 1,000 plays, out of warranty. The boards were $125 each from pinball life, magnet coil $89 from Marco

#27307 43 days ago

The design on the PDB was given to their most junior EE because nobody designs a board this bad after getting a few others under their belt...

Point in case, a failure on this board can cause the high voltage interlock to NOT work... so if you reach in, its live under there folks. Seems to me this should be a no brainer to get right, but they keep having issues with this board.

#27308 43 days ago
Quoted from Gnassel:

My solution (s)
A: spring from a pen
B: created a wire gate that cover the gap.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Making a new gate, sounds easy enough and looks good. The pen spring looks flakey. I installed an MRS switch - looks cool and works every time, and there are no moving parts to fail.

#27309 43 days ago
Quoted from Sirgubster9:

i have purchased the original glass from someone who did that exact same thing. super nice to get non scratched glass on and older beat up machine.

The last few times I removed the glass from my 1978 Mata Hari game, I noticed how much heavier the glass is as compared to more current games. I haven't measured, but I'm sure the glass thickness must be more on the Mata Hari. When buying used glass from someone else's pb game, make sure it's the correct thickness.

#27310 42 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

The design on the PDB was given to their most junior EE because nobody designs a board this bad after getting a few others under their belt...
Point in case, a failure on this board can cause the high voltage interlock to NOT work... so if you reach in, its live under there folks. Seems to me this should be a no brainer to get right, but they keep having issues with this board.

Whats a PDB did you mean PCBA?

#27311 42 days ago
Quoted from Mully911:

Whats a PDB did you mean PCBA?

Power Distribution Board.

Also the same thing that makes clicking noises on bootup.

#27312 42 days ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

After having issues with a friends premium for a few months , I've tracked down problem, originally game was dead, I found power distribution board had a fried chip. Ordered new board, installed , blew up instantly. After months I found the issue. The Magna Grab magnet fried. Game will finally boot with it unplugged. I've ordered another board and magnet coil, should there have been something to prevent the board from blowing? And should I look for anything that would have caused the magnet to do this before installing the 2nd new board and new magnet?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

The coil winding you show appears it may have shorted over time probably due to vibration causing the varnish coating on the wire to deteriorate and the copper windings to touch each other, that causes lower resistance, and therefore a higher current draw through the driver components on the board..looks like they have been heating up a long time..the load dictates how much current is drawn. Also the driver frequency and duty cycle applied to the coil can affect the life of the winding. Maybe the coil would last longer if it were potted..perhaps getting pummeled by a high velocity metal ball accelerates the decay. Just my .02 cents.

#27313 42 days ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

Power Distribution Board.
Also the same thing that makes clicking noises on bootup.

Thanks, i’m not hip to all the acronyms yet!

#27314 42 days ago
Quoted from Mully911:

Thanks, i’m not hip to all the acronyms yet!

I only know it because of this amazing technical thread from pin monk:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-clicking-power-supply-fix

#27315 42 days ago
Quoted from daveyvandy:

I only know it because of this amazing technical thread from pin monk:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-clicking-power-supply-fix

Cool I will check it out! Thanks

#27316 42 days ago
Quoted from Mitoska:

After having issues with a friends premium for a few months , I've tracked down problem, originally game was dead, I found power distribution board had a fried chip. Ordered new board, installed , blew up instantly. After months I found the issue. The Magna Grab magnet fried. Game will finally boot with it unplugged. I've ordered another board and magnet coil, should there have been something to prevent the board from blowing? And should I look for anything that would have caused the magnet to do this before installing the 2nd new board and new magnet?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Out of curiousity, when you receive the new magnet coil, could you check the resistance of the new magnet winding and post here for reference. Thanks in advance.

#27317 42 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

The last few times I removed the glass from my 1978 Mata Hari game, I noticed how much heavier the glass is as compared to more current games. I haven't measured, but I'm sure the glass thickness must be more on the Mata Hari. When buying used glass from someone else's pb game, make sure it's the correct thickness.

It’s possible you had a machine with replacement leaded glass installed in the machine. Leaded glass is far cheaper and usually indistinguishable from the unleaded type unless you look carefully. It actually has a slight green tint in certain lighting conditions, and it really is 50% heavier or so.

#27318 42 days ago
Quoted from Bublehead:

The design on the PDB was given to their most junior EE because nobody designs a board this bad after getting a few others under their belt...
Point in case, a failure on this board can cause the high voltage interlock to NOT work... so if you reach in, its live under there folks. Seems to me this should be a no brainer to get right, but they keep having issues with this board.

I have had this happen to me Twice on my Rush Pro - PDB Failure causes the interlock to have high voltage on all the time.

#27319 41 days ago

A short while back I saw someone post how to make the "washer fix", which supposedly is better than the "business card fix" for the ball getting stuck inside the building problem. Does anyone know where I can find the details for making this washer fix?

#27320 41 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

A short while back I saw someone post how to make the "washer fix", which supposedly is better than the "business card fix" for the ball getting stuck inside the building problem. Does anyone know where I can find the details for making this washer fix?

In the key posts grasshopper

#27321 41 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

A short while back I saw someone post how to make the "washer fix", which supposedly is better than the "business card fix" for the ball getting stuck inside the building problem. Does anyone know where I can find the details for making this washer fix?

I tried that crap and didn’t work with a flip. So an another guy on here seen my post of having trouble and messaged me with how to fix it. He took a camera scope and went in the vuk to see exactly what it was doing.
What u do is take a piece of 24 gauge or so sheet metal and cut it to fit and it will cover the gap perfectly. Mine has not given one bit of problems sense. I’ll see if I can post the picture he sent me.

#27322 41 days ago
Quoted from golfergordy:

A short while back I saw someone post how to make the "washer fix", which supposedly is better than the "business card fix" for the ball getting stuck inside the building problem. Does anyone know where I can find the details for making this washer fix?

It’s in the key posts but here’s the link.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/316#post-7199283

It looks like folks have had various results so I’m guessing it might have to do with how large the gap is in your particular game and you have to try it to know how well it would work for you. Mine has worked 100%, not a single ball trapped since I put the washers over 1.5 years ago. At least if no luck you can easily remove the washers and try something else.

#27323 41 days ago

Code question. Is there anywhere during game play or even the videos that King Cesar is featured? He is pictured right next to the pop bumper. Maybe I haven't gotten that deep into the game, or might there be another code release.

#27324 41 days ago
Quoted from Rexdeanrds:

I have had this happen to me Twice on my Rush Pro - PDB Failure causes the interlock to have high voltage on all the time.

My Zilla has not had a working high voltage cutoff when coin door is open for nearly a year. I’ve just been enduring/coping with it. So far - knock on wood - no other obvious functional problems. But should I get PDB replaced to prevent future problems?

#27325 41 days ago
Quoted from izzy:Code question. Is there anywhere during game play or even the videos that King Cesar is featured? He is pictured right next to the pop bumper. Maybe I haven't gotten that deep into the game, or might there be another code release.

Nothing since you last asked. he is MIA and I would not expect any significant changes added to this game.

#27326 41 days ago
Quoted from Nicholastree:

My Zilla has not had a working high voltage cutoff when coin door is open for nearly a year. I’ve just been enduring/coping with it. So far - knock on wood - no other obvious functional problems. But should I get PDB replaced to prevent future problems?

Check the high-voltage interlock switch located inside the coin door. It is responsible for disabling the high voltage section when the door is opened maybe it is malfunctioning or has a bad connection. Look near where the door hinges there are some white switches.

#27327 41 days ago

I did the washer fix and have not had any issues since.

#27328 41 days ago
Quoted from Mully911:

Check the high-voltage interlock switch located inside the coin door. It is responsible for disabling the high voltage section when the door is opened maybe it is malfunctioning or has a bad connection. Look near where the door hinges there are some white switches.

It is a very well known problem that the PDB could be causing this and not the interlock switch.

#27329 41 days ago
Quoted from Oneironaut:

It is a very well known problem that the PDB could be causing this and not the interlock switch.

Yeah. My pintech (an electrical engineer) took a look at the coin door wiring a few months ago and ruled that - and all other wiring problems - out. A PDB seems 90% the likely problem from what others have said.

#27330 41 days ago
Quoted from Oneironaut:

It is a very well known problem that the PDB could be causing this and not the interlock switch.

I understand I am an EE and I always start troubleshooting with the easy probable causes first as a shotgun approach, then I begin a systematic breakdown starting with where the power supply starts. So if I understand the issue correctly, something on the power distribution board is shorted and bypassing the interlock switch?
I have only been into pinball for about a year, so I don’t know all the history and common issues with all of the games but enjoy learning.

#27331 40 days ago
Quoted from Mully911:

I understand I am an EE and I always start troubleshooting with the easy probable causes first as a shotgun approach, then I begin a systematic breakdown starting with where the power supply starts. So if I understand the issue correctly, something on the power distribution board is shorted and bypassing the interlock switch?
I have only been into pinball for about a year, so I don’t know all the history and common issues with all of the games but enjoy learning.

I have this issue as well and have been contemplating buying a new PDB from pinballlife. But I don’t want to replace it only to have it happen again. Was this just a bad batch of boards or are they all just prone to failure in this way? Anyone know?

#27332 40 days ago

Got this cool 3D printed Godzilla head (which my artsy daughter painted for me). Will be the centrepiece for my topper........

Godzilla (resized).jpegGodzilla (resized).jpeg
#27333 40 days ago

Odd question, but when does the spotlight post (next to the Maser target) and pointed towards the building turn on? Went through the GI and Flasher tests and can't seem to figure out if it works and when it is used during gameplay.

#27334 40 days ago
Quoted from Nicholastree:

Yeah. My pintech (an electrical engineer) took a look at the coin door wiring a few months ago and ruled that - and all other wiring problems - out. A PDB seems 90% the likely problem from what others have said.

There appear to be two versions of the PDB in the backbox. 99.9% of all machines ship with a PDB that includes the coin-door cut-out logic. Very useful when servicing a coin-op machine on-site. BUT, there is a second version of the same board, looks nearly identical, but the upper corner is missing most of the parts. The pads are there, but the components were never populated. This little brother was intended to be used in Home Pin machines, which did not have a coin-door interlock requirements, and there has been at least ONE report of these PDBs accidently finding their was into production machines. Check your board in the backbox to confirm it is in fact the proper 520-8096-00A board with all parts installed.

#27335 40 days ago

Just received my premium last Tuesday and am in the process of dialing the machine in. Any recommended out-of-the-box adjustments or tweaks to this game? I've only played 10 or so games so far but seems a bit unforgiving compared to some of my other pins.

#27336 40 days ago
Quoted from CookyJar:

Odd question, but when does the spotlight post (next to the Maser target) and pointed towards the building turn on? Went through the GI and Flasher tests and can't seem to figure out if it works and when it is used during gameplay.

It doesn't come on in flasher test? It's on persistantly during normal gameplay, and may occasionally flash. But push the start button and it should be on.

#27337 40 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

There appear to be two versions of the PDB in the backbox. 99.9% of all machines ship with a PDB that includes the coin-door cut-out logic. Very useful when servicing a coin-op machine on-site. BUT, there is a second version of the same board, looks nearly identical, but the upper corner is missing most of the parts. The pads are there, but the components were never populated. This little brother was intended to be used in Home Pin machines, which did not have a coin-door interlock requirements, and there has been at least ONE report of these PDBs accidently finding their was into production machines. Check your board in the backbox to confirm it is in fact the proper 520-8096-00A board with all parts installed.

The PDB on the home pin is a bit different. They likely came from Guardians, which didn’t have an interlock switch.

#27338 40 days ago

Just joined the club today. Only 119 total plays. Super excited

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#27339 40 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

It doesn't come on in flasher test? It's on persistantly during normal gameplay, and may occasionally flash. But push the start button and it should be on.

Now that I know it's supposed to be on most of the time, that was super helpful.
Turned out the bulb just had to be reseated, then it came right on.

#27340 40 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

Just received my premium last Tuesday and am in the process of dialing the machine in. Any recommended out-of-the-box adjustments or tweaks to this game? I've only played 10 or so games so far but seems a bit unforgiving compared to some of my other pins.

Check all leveling angles. Apparently this game is finicky.

My seems a little unforgiving too, but I toss that up to my poor pinball abilities...

#27341 40 days ago

Looking for a GZ Prem in the Chicago area if someone is looking for a change.

#27342 40 days ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Looking for a GZ Prem in the Chicago area if someone is looking for a change.

Pinball pro has new ones. I bought a game from him and I was able to pick it up in Glendale Heights and avoid shipping costs.

#27343 40 days ago
Quoted from iamabearsfan:

Looking for a GZ Prem in the Chicago area if someone is looking for a change.

If you want new, there are a few sellers here in the Market with NIB for $9500 with free shipping.

#27344 40 days ago
Quoted from Sorokyl:

Nothing since you last asked. he is MIA and I would not expect any significant changes added to this game.

Thx

#27345 39 days ago

My wife found a new T-shirt for me today despite my standing order of no more Ts (I have way too many). I made an exception

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#27346 39 days ago

A bit off topic, but last Tuesday my very first new in box pin arrived. It's a Godzilla Premium. I noticed in the menu settings a burn in option. Should I do it?

#27347 39 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

A bit off topic, but last Tuesday my very first new in box pin arrived. It's a Godzilla Premium. I noticed in the menu settings a burn in option. Should I do it?

I recommend you play 25 games... That's your Burn-In! Seriously, the Burn-In option is mostly for Operators to make sure the machine is working before they place a machine on-site. For Home Use, you will be the burn-in yourself when you play it. Anything goes wrong, you can fix it without driving out to the location.

#27348 39 days ago
Quoted from Markharris2000:

I recommend you play 25 games... That's your Burn-In! Seriously, the Burn-In option is mostly for Operators to make sure the machine is working before they place a machine on-site. For Home Use, you will be the burn-in yourself when you play it. Anything goes wrong, you can fix it without driving out to the location.

Thanks for the clarification.

#27349 38 days ago
Quoted from MoSeS_1592:

A bit off topic, but last Tuesday my very first new in box pin arrived. It's a Godzilla Premium. I noticed in the menu settings a burn in option. Should I do it?

I thought that burn in option was for when you were tired of it, and it would burn up. Kind of like that thermite grenade on top of the Intel computers in the war zone.

#27350 38 days ago
Quoted from badfish981:Easy process to replace the T molding?

Just replaced my t-molding on my avatar (sam) super easy. Just take a measurement of your old tmolding after peeling it out. Be careful not to pull or chip the wood. Just go slow. The spike 2 system has them wrap around to the back. Keep the seam/ends at the back so you don't see It. I think tmolding.com is where I got mine. Cheap but expensive shipping so stock up

PXL_20240404_201426513 (resized).jpgPXL_20240404_201426513 (resized).jpg

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