Godzilla (Limited Edition)
Stern, 2021
Godzilla (Premium)
Stern, 2021
Godzilla (Pro)
Stern, 2021Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Didn’t stern cancel Dead Pool for 2022 release?
Not at this point. There was a couple of misunderstandings from a post that was worded weird, but there has been no official mention from any distributor of it being cancelled.
Quoted from koops:Aussie LE’s are starting to go out
I got impatient and just went to my dist and picked it up this morning instead of waiting for a delivery date.
Build date : 12 October 21.
Really love the foil decals!
Haven’t noticed too much to fix apart from the building sdtm. Insider doesn’t work but I’m sure there is info I’ll find elsewhere in this thread about fixing that.
Got mine delivered this morning, benefit of a taking a little extra time from AMD's contractor delivering(and losing time while due AMD being closed till last Mon) was it was tested and ready roll in and play. Just want to go back and see how the level looks as I guarantee it won't be at what it should be.
Also, as you noticed Insider connect gets my machine online and registered but in actual game play it keeps saying machine is offline, so something weird going on for us here in Aus with the server connection perhaps.
A8A2F9A0-A3EF-45F4-AB13-F3C5BF3792A9 (resized).JPGQuoted from NovaCade:Anyone else’s glass ridiculously tight? Tightest of all my tables by far. Makes me a little nervous every time I have to take it off.
Mine was rattling like a MF. I had to use anti-rattle tape on both sides.
Deadpool is on the calendar for August. Source: I saw the email to the distros. Well, at least the part about DP.
Quoted from gambit3113:Deadpool is on the calendar for August. Source: I saw the email to the distros. Well, at least the part about DP.
i can corroborate August, as that's what my distro told me
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Cheers! It was basically one and a half of these LED strips:
amazon.com link »
...and an amplifier:
amazon.com link »
...and a quite a bit of cutting and soldering of the strips.
What flashers
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:I put in some interactive undercab lighting, tied into the saucer pop bumper LED. Looks great, especially during modes... Was originally tied into the lockdown bar button, but that wasn't very interesting so then I figured I'd try the saucer and it made a world (under glass) of difference.
Looks great. What did you tie your Red Green and Blue led strip grounds to on godzilla? Looks like the ufo coil grounds use all 3 to make white. what did you choose to activate red and blue?
Quoted from radium:What did it say about JP prems
Didn’t look for that one, so I don’t know. I was specifically only looking for DP.
Quoted from Chitownpinball:I love when people make mods to fix “problems” that dont exist.
This reminds me of the stupid center post for GB
My playfield if very carefully leveled, and it’s common for two or three of the balls to drain off the building.
It doesn’t bother me a ton, but I hate seeing other people experience disappointment on their first Godzilla multiball. $50 is worth it. The mod looks good, too.
It’s certainly not a cheat or even close to adding a center post to GB.
Quoted from tedwasright:I was told by someone I trust that all distributors have a certain number of pieces they will get. Maybe your distributor sold all those from the earlier runs? I ordered mine in December and I'm scheduled for a March build.
That's what I was told. As I said before, truth died years ago. So I just cling to what I was told.
I placed my deposit down on September 14th and my distributor is saying he can’t guarantee I’ll be in the March delivery. He said it all depends on however many games they send him but it sounds as if you’re suggesting he should already know the allotment he’ll receive. Is that right??
Quoted from atg1469:I placed my deposit down on September 14th and my distributor is saying he can’t guarantee I’ll be in the March delivery. He said it all depends on however many games they send him but it sounds as if you’re suggesting he should already know the allotment he’ll receive. Is that right??
I called around about a month ago looking to get on a list. My understanding is that they all know what they "should" get but it's anyone's guess as to how many actually show up.
Quoted from Our_Man_in_Oz:Insider connect gets my machine online and registered but in actual game play it keeps saying machine is offline, so something weird going on for us here in Aus with the server connection perhaps.[quoted image]
I am in Canada and have been working with insider support with a similar issue for the last week. My game connects, allows to scan in but is not registering achievements. It does register “last game played” score on the insider page but nothing else.. even says all time loops and buildings destroyed zero although have got many while scanned in. One time i scanned in and all of a sudden got 5 achievements (from previous games) go across the screen before plunging the ball. The game also said it was “up to date” in settings at code .81 when .85 was available. When I run a speed test it won’t connect to speed test but says everything connected and scans me in. No issues on other wifi devices in house and strong signal. Might be worth reaching out to Stern support if the issue continues. I have managed to update the game and do a speed test but it seems to still be having issues. They now want me to test the CPU, SD and Micro SD to narrow down the issue as they don’t think it’s my network.
Spent the morning doing minor tuning.
I looked through this thread and found some of the solutions but not for everything.
Bridge hitting plastic. Had a look on my machine and even with only 11 plays plastic was starting to get a hole made into it.
I did see that other people put foam but I figured it had to be caused by something.
I noticed that it seemed to be moving too far. I couldn't find a nice way above the playfield so I did it below.
Bridge before
IMG_3354 (resized).jpg
Bridge after.
IMG_3362 (resized).jpg
Cause : the coil plunger is too short resulting in too much motion.
Solution : Added 4 11x.9mm washers between the end of the plunger and the coil stop to restrict its motion. A flat washer without the hole would probably be better but this is all I had on hand. The number of washers required will depend on the amount of unwanted motion you have, probably machine dependent. Too many washers will stop balls from being able to drop between the two bridges. Too little and it will still hit the plastic. I could only test when the playfield was in proper position. Testing while pf was up didn't show the true range of motion.
There is an absolute ton of slop in the entire mech so it does rattle around I found I could only really tell it was fixed in a slow mo video.
Bridge plastics were also hitting each other. Unscrew and adjust. There seems to be a heap of play in these so its easy to get a ton of space.
IMG_3356 (resized).jpg
IMG_3355 (resized).jpg
Both triangle side plastics near each art blades were turned so they would catch and rip art blades it you ever lifted the playfield. unscrewed and adjust. Also has tons of play on these.
Stdm drains
Tried a couple of the offered solutions I could do without ordering some dedicated fix mods.
Seems somewhat fixed.
IMG_3370 (resized).jpg
IMG_3374 (resized).jpg
I still find the left side inner loop next to the build can occasionally get sdtm's.
Slow wild plunges resulting from the ball rattling out of the shooter lane.
Who thought there straight flaps were a good idea? Bring back the inverted V! 
Cause : flap had a large gap above shooter lane. Ball was hitting the flap and deflecting it *sometimes*
Solution : remove entire flap and slightly bend back. The entire flap ramp itself isn't actually straight but bent itself causing the flap to be raised above the lane and not flush with it.
I can see this getting worse over time as it flexes back so might add double sided tape to the underside and see if that helps.
Had 1 random connection lose which wasn't too bad considering how far it travelled.
Quoted from dri:Anyone heard anything about "removing licensed music" from the game similar to Mando?
I did check the options and it is sort of there by way of choosing the music style Rock (includes licenced music), orchestral but doesnt seem to have a literal option like mando does (or I couldnt just find it).
Quoted from koops:I did check the options and it is sort of there by way of choosing the music style Rock (includes licenced music), orchestral but doesnt seem to have a literal option like mando does (or I couldnt just find it).
I have the 1954 OG soundtrack selected. I still hear the Blue Oyster Cult song during GZ MB and after Game Over.
Quoted from atg1469:I placed my deposit down on September 14th and my distributor is saying he can’t guarantee I’ll be in the March delivery. He said it all depends on however many games they send him but it sounds as if you’re suggesting he should already know the allotment he’ll receive. Is that right??
I don't know much about the industry. I can tell you that I ordered mine from a distributor in early December. I was told that each distributor gets a certain amount of machines. Mine was the last Godzilla order. A couple of days later I got a text from the distributor saying, "Your order was accepted by Stern today for March build." I didn't know it needed to be accepted.
The internet is rife with negativity, etc. Whenever I worry I contact the distributor who tells me we are still set. Maybe I'm being lied to. But it doesn't feel like it to me. They are friendly and never give me the feeling that they're lying. So I am having faith and waiting.
Quoted from dri:I have the 1954 OG soundtrack selected. I still hear the Blue Oyster Cult song during GZ MB and after Game Over.
The selection in the settings seems to only affect the main gameplay tune.
Quoted from radium:What did it say about JP prems
My local guy saw the list. I have two machines on order from two different distros. One GZ P and JP P. He confirmed that the list he saw shows GZ P scheduled for March as we know and JP P scheduled for April. So if all goes according to plan I'll have two NIB's back to back to compliment my growing 90's B/W collection (picking up RS this weekend). I can't tell you how much I'm looking forward to owning a few modern machines that still have all the spares available. I know that all machines take work to keep them playing well but I suspect modern Sterns will require less work than my older machines. Hopefully.
Quoted from SimplePin:I know that all machines take work to keep them playing well but I suspect modern Sterns will require less work than my older machines. Hopefully.
Hugely less (GZ vs TZ is my reference). The flip side is that modern pins are a lot less intricate than the classic 90s pins (the depth comes from software, not hardware). I was shocked at how simple things were when I flipped up the PF on my GZ (first modern pin I've owned).
So far, minor tweaks and cleaning only, but I'm spending a lot of (fun) time with mods and souping up the pin than I ever did on the classic pins.
Quoted from digitaldocc:.
So this was a four-connector LED strip: R, G, B and +5V. If you follow the corresponding pop bumper LED R/G/B/+5 leads beneath the playfield, they each respectively attach to a row of four connectors. I used alligator clips to clip each respective LED connector to each of the corresponding playfield connectors. I'll try to post a picture later today.
This is the bank of connectors that I attached the LED leads to. (Yellow alligator clip is for blue, black alligator clip is for +5V) You can see the pop bumper coil to the left of it.
Quoted from ray-dude:Hugely less (GZ vs TZ is my reference). The flip side is that modern pins are a lot less intricate than the classic 90s pins (the depth comes from software, not hardware). I was shocked at how simple things were when I flipped up the PF on my GZ (first modern pin I've owned).
So far, minor tweaks and cleaning only, but I'm spending a lot of (fun) time with mods and souping up the pin than I ever did on the classic pins.
Thanks for confirming! I was hoping that would be the case. I do like tinkering and working on them. Big part of the draw for me, however constantly fixing and chasing random errors and misbehaving mechs can get frustrating.
SDTM Bldg Multiball easy proper fix.
So after 500 games or so, I started getting SDTM drains from building multiball. Its an easy fix, just adjust the plastics on top of the building with the 4 screws. Hold the plastics as you tighten down to change trajectory toward the left flipper. There is designed a little bit of wiggle room in them. No more SDTM! 
And yes, the game is designed to send the balls to the left flipper and not SDTM.
pasted_image (resized).pngThis is really how it works. A distributor may be told they have an allotment of say…10 Deadpool Premiums and then 3 show up. That’s it till next run. Anyone who paid a deposit gets moved back till the next run or the license runs out and the distrib has the uncomfortable conversation attempting to move the deposit to an alternate game. This is partially the reason why games that are still in production are commanding such high prices. Wait till DP STH JP licenses are retired, there will be a mad rush to buy them on the secondary market and prices at that point will be truly obscene. We’re nowhere near the ceiling on this s#it. Hold on to your butts. AND your games!!! Haha
Quoted from mbl1116:I called around about a month ago looking to get on a list. My understanding is that they all know what they "should" get but it's anyone's guess as to how many actually show up.
I had a ton of trouble with getting insider connected.
wifi was just not working, I guessed that the signal was just not getting through.
Metal backbox is pretty much a faraday cage plus what seems to be a pretty poor wifi adapter even with its giant dual antennas.
The head itself drops the signal by atleast 60%.
So if your signal was marginal to start with it wont help, my access point is upside down roof mounted about 5 meters away from the top of godzilla.
Used my phone which had significantly better reception and used it to understand what attenuation was caused by the back box and/or location of antenna.
Inside : 92mbps. Default adapter position.
Front : 227 mbps
IMG_0848 (resized).jpg
top : 233 mbps
IMG_0846 (resized).jpg
I didnt want to have to look at the antenna sitting on top of the machine so I moved it.
Detach the adaptor and put the usb through the topper hole, reattach the adapter and zip tie to the back and see if that helps.
Use a phone app to help determine you best position.
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:This is the bank of connectors that I attached the LED leads to. (Yellow alligator clip is for blue, black alligator clip is for +5V) You can see the pop bumper coil to the left of it.
[quoted image]
Thank you for taking the time to show how you pulled it off. Nice innovation. Next, I'm going to read up on the amp. If you don't mind I may have some questions on that.
Currently I'm practicing on my iron man wiring LED strips before I attempt anything on my shiny new godzilla.
Quoted from koops:Spent the morning doing minor tuning.
I looked through this thread and found some of the solutions but not for everything.
Bridge hitting plastic. Had a look on my machine and even with only 11 plays plastic was starting to get a hole made into it.
I did see that other people put foam but I figured it had to be caused by something.
I noticed that it seemed to be moving too far. I couldn't find a nice way above the playfield so I did it below.
Bridge before
[quoted image]Bridge after.
[quoted image]Cause : the coil plunger is too short resulting in too much motion.
Solution : Added 4 11x.9mm washers between the end of the plunger and the coil stop to restrict its motion. A flat washer without the hole would probably be better but this is all I had on hand. The number of washers required will depend on the amount of unwanted motion you have, probably machine dependent. Too many washers will stop balls from being able to drop between the two bridges. Too little and it will still hit the plastic. I could only test when the playfield was in proper position. Testing while pf was up didn't show the true range of motion.
There is an absolute ton of slop in the entire mech so it does rattle around I found I could only really tell it was fixed in a slow mo video.
[quoted image]
Bridge plastics were also hitting each other. Unscrew and adjust. There seems to be a heap of play in these so its easy to get a ton of space.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Both triangle side plastics near each art blades were turned so they would catch and rip art blades it you ever lifted the playfield. unscrewed and adjust. Also has tons of play on these.
Stdm drains
Tried a couple of the offered solutions I could do without ordering some dedicated fix mods.
Seems somewhat fixed.
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
I still find the left side inner loop next to the build can occasionally get sdtm's.
Slow wild plunges resulting from the ball rattling out of the shooter lane.
Who thought there straight flaps were a good idea? Bring back the inverted V!
Cause : flap had a large gap above shooter lane. Ball was hitting the flap and deflecting it *sometimes*
Solution : remove entire flap and slightly bend back. The entire flap ramp itself isn't actually straight but bent itself causing the flap to be raised above the lane and not flush with it.
I can see this getting worse over time as it flexes back so might add double sided tape to the underside and see if that helps.
[quoted image]
Had 1 random connection lose which wasn't too bad considering how far it travelled.
[quoted image]
Nice write up and thanks for sharing all that you did. Lots of good stuff there. It looks like you removed half of the bridge in that one pic. Is it as simple as just removing that C-clip? Or is there more to it? Just wondering what all is involved.
Quoted from mostater:Nice write up and thanks for sharing all that you did. Lots of good stuff there. It looks like you removed half of the bridge in that one pic. Is it as simple as just removing that C-clip? Or is there more to it? Just wondering what all is involved.
I never removed the bridge at all. I just moved it by hand to see what its range of motion was. I was thinking that there might have been a different way to limit its movement.
Quoted from koops:Cause : the coil plunger is too short resulting in too much motion.
Solution : Added 4 11x.9mm washers between the end of the plunger and the coil stop to restrict its motion. A flat washer without the hole would probably be better but this is all I had on hand. The number of washers required will depend on the amount of unwanted motion you have, probably machine dependent. Too many washers will stop balls from being able to drop between the two bridges. Too little and it will still hit the plastic. I could only test when the playfield was in proper position. Testing while pf was up didn't show the true range of motion.
There is an absolute ton of slop in the entire mech so it does rattle around I found I could only really tell it was fixed in a slow mo video.
[quoted image]
I wonder if a different coil stop that would shorten the travel of the plunger and therefore the travel of the bridge is a possibility. Not sure if there’s a taller one that’s compatible. Great post BTW.
Reached my not buying number $$$ a few Price hikes ago. Have at em
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:This is really how it works. A distributor may be told they have an allotment of say…10 Deadpool Premiums and then 3 show up. That’s it till next run. Anyone who paid a deposit gets moved back till the next run or the license runs out and the distrib has the uncomfortable conversation attempting to move the deposit to an alternate game. This is partially the reason why games that are still in production are commanding such high prices. Wait till DP STH JP licenses are retired, there will be a mad rush to buy them on the secondary market and prices at that point will be truly obscene. We’re nowhere near the ceiling on this s#it. Hold on to your butts. AND your games!!! Haha
Quoted from Chisox:I wonder if a different coil stop that would shorten the travel of the plunger and therefore the travel of the bridge is a possibility. Not sure if there’s a taller one that’s compatible. Great post BTW.
Yes that would also work.
Good morning! Long shot, but f anyone uses Titan glow in the dark rings on their GZ flippers, can I trouble you to paste a photo? Curious how they look... Thanks!
Quoted from koops:I had a ton of trouble with getting insider connected.
wifi was just not working, I guessed that the signal was just not getting through.
Metal backbox is pretty much a faraday cage plus what seems to be a pretty poor wifi adapter even with its giant dual antennas.
The head itself drops the signal by atleast 60%.
So if your signal was marginal to start with it wont help, my access point is upside down roof mounted about 5 meters away from the top of godzilla.
Used my phone which had significantly better reception and used it to understand what attenuation was caused by the back box and/or location of antenna.
Inside : 92mbps. Default adapter position.
[quoted image]
Front : 227 mbps
[quoted image]
top : 233 mbps
[quoted image]
I didnt want to have to look at the antenna sitting on top of the machine so I moved it.
[quoted image]
Detach the adaptor and put the usb through the topper hole, reattach the adapter and zip tie to the back and see if that helps.
Use a phone app to help determine you best position.
Thanks for the heads up. Nice bump in mbps there.
Quoted from koops:I had a ton of trouble with getting insider connected.
wifi was just not working, I guessed that the signal was just not getting through.
Metal backbox is pretty much a faraday cage plus what seems to be a pretty poor wifi adapter even with its giant dual antennas.
The head itself drops the signal by atleast 60%.
So if your signal was marginal to start with it wont help, my access point is upside down roof mounted about 5 meters away from the top of godzilla.
Used my phone which had significantly better reception and used it to understand what attenuation was caused by the back box and/or location of antenna.
Inside : 92mbps. Default adapter position.
[quoted image]
Front : 227 mbps
[quoted image]
top : 233 mbps
[quoted image]
I didnt want to have to look at the antenna sitting on top of the machine so I moved it.
[quoted image]
Detach the adaptor and put the usb through the topper hole, reattach the adapter and zip tie to the back and see if that helps.
Use a phone app to help determine you best position.
Now that's an impressive wifi booster dongle.
Had the same issue on mine with my access point being only 25ft away on the above floor. Don't really care much for the connected features so I bought a magnetic apron overlay to cover the ugly white light. Also if you plug in an network cable directly, updates download and install quickly.
Quoted from digitaldocc:Now that's an impressive wifi booster dongle.
Had the same issue on mine with my access point being only 25ft away on the above floor. Don't really care much for the connected features so I bought a magnetic apron overlay to cover the ugly white light. Also if you plug in an network cable directly, updates download and install quickly.
Pic? From wizard mod?
Quoted from jonnyqtrek:Good morning! Long shot, but f anyone uses Titan glow in the dark rings on their GZ flippers, can I trouble you to paste a photo? Curious how they look... Thanks!
So I ordered a complete Titan GITD set including flipper rings for my GZ. I was expecting it to be perfect for the playfield colors. I hated it. I have the GITD in 2 other games-AFM & TWD and they are amazing but not for GZ. I ended up going with the Titan Green and I'm very pleased. Sorry no pics yet but I'll get some out soon.
Quoted from BallyKISS1978:Pic? From wizard mod?
This is the one I bought. My only wish is if the light from the camera illuminated the graphic. Unfortunately it's solid.
After spending the last 3 weeks cranking out SDTM fix building mods, I just realized I still have the first prototype on my machine. Now that I have a decent inventory built up and ready to ship, it seems like a good time to upgrade my prototype. Maybe some custom colors or lettering. Maybe a tribute to 1955 on the helipad. I messed around and built a simple sign based on Japanese road signs with a tribute to the year GZ was released.
If you are having the SDTM issue on your machine, I have about 20 on hand and ready to be shipped.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1368-hurryuppinball/05681-godzilla-prem-le-building-mod-multi-ball-sdtm-fix
221C7B02-1446-4C17-A58F-B2FB63BAF739 (resized).jpeg28994AF4-DD7F-450C-B725-C856003B2FB5 (resized).jpeg4D882748-C9CD-4509-9049-D067AC25CB8F (resized).jpegB49D6ABB-20CE-4371-86D4-216C5CA7CD14 (resized).jpegCA7B7B0D-81D1-4803-B637-621D207FA1A5 (resized).jpegD49874BF-EB9D-461C-B235-16251F49AA01 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:Maybe a tribute to 1955 on the helipad. I messed around and built a simple sign based on Japanese road signs with a tribute to the year GZ was released.
Looks good except the Japanese original version came out on 1954. The heavily edited American version with Raymond Burr added came out in 1956.
Quoted from docquest:Looks good except the Japanese original version came out on 1954. The heavily edited American version with Raymond Burr added came out in 1956.
So pretend he averaged them who cares
Quoted from HurryUpPinball:After spending the last 3 weeks cranking out SDTM fix building mods, I just realized I still have the first prototype on my machine. Now that I have a decent inventory built up and ready to ship, it seems like a good time to upgrade my prototype. Maybe some custom colors or lettering. Maybe a tribute to 1955 on the helipad. I messed around and built a simple sign based on Japanese road signs with a tribute to the year GZ was released.
If you are having the SDTM issue on your machine, I have about 20 on hand and ready to be shipped.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1368-hurryuppinball/05681-godzilla-prem-le-building-mod-multi-ball-sdtm-fix
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Installed my SDTM fix yesterday and its perfect! Highly recommend. Odd Stern didn’t do this from the factory.
Quoted from radium:So pretend he averaged them who cares
1954 is the correct release year. I wonder if that makes the sign a super rare collector’s item now since it is a misprint LOL. Thanks for letting me know. My OCD means I need to fix that immediately. Time to fix the sign and improve the design.
Quoted from EricHadley:Installed my SDTM fix yesterday and its perfect! Highly recommend. Odd Stern didn’t do this from the factory.
You'll find out why the first time you one-time it into the building or to one of the exposed ramp exits upon ball drop
Quoted from ray-dude:Hugely less (GZ vs TZ is my reference). The flip side is that modern pins are a lot less intricate than the classic 90s pins (the depth comes from software, not hardware). I was shocked at how simple things were when I flipped up the PF on my GZ (first modern pin I've owned).
So far, minor tweaks and cleaning only, but I'm spending a lot of (fun) time with mods and souping up the pin than I ever did on the classic pins.
I've spent less time messing with my 8 total newer stern in the last 3 years then 5 months of owning a white water
Quoted from docquest:Looks good except the Japanese original version came out on 1954. The heavily edited American version with Raymond Burr added came out in 1956.
54 and 56 it is, then!
Quoted from sk8ball:You'll find out why the first time you one-time it into the building or to one of the exposed ramp exits upon ball drop
WTF you talking about. LOL
Quoted from sk8ball:You'll find out why the first time you one-time it into the building or to one of the exposed ramp exits upon ball drop
Not sure I understand your comment. I installed mine, as well, and it's been fantastic! Drops right to the left flipper. Doesn't interfere with anything else. Care to explain? What am I missing here?
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/stern-godzilla-official-owners-club/page/128 and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Austin, TX
Calgary, AB