(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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  • 11,164 posts
  • 789 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 3 days ago by poppapin
  • Topic is favorited by 325 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

35 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #15 Coin reject image Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #16 Strategy Posted by tomdotcom (11 years ago)

Post #37 Easter Eggs Posted by pinster68 (11 years ago)

Post #78 Easter Egg - SUN (High Score) Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #124 Moon - Green Lit Insert - Diverter is Active Posted by Rum-Z (11 years ago)

Post #145 Castle Lock Ramp Adjustment Posted by Doot77 (11 years ago)

Post #158 PAPA video tutorial Posted by DeathHimself (11 years ago)

Post #266 Prototype Slingshot Plastics - Hex installed (Photos) Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #306 Left side Castle plastic - For Sale Posted by GRB1959 (11 years ago)

Post #378 BSD backbox LED chart Posted by MrBellMan (10 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider jwf_pinball.
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#8840 2 years ago
Quoted from Nomad:

I've been trying my best to clean and rebuild this BSD I purchased a month back. It was routed then left in storage. This from under the PF. So dirty and now clean. It ain't much but it's honest work.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

What'd you use? They look great!

#8854 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Can someone please follow the backbone/dmd speaker wires off their display panel to tell me where they connect to? ive put my machine back together and for the life of me I can't find where one of the 4 pin plugs, single black wire from it connects.

On the sound board the 4pin with single black goes to j504.

#8856 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I have one plugged into 504, my loom has a connector on it with another 4 pin single wire. Do both go to 504 slots? My photos only had one occupied at tear down.
It’s the black/yellow I need a home for
[quoted image][quoted image]

Black and yellow is for the panel speaker. J505, to the left, next to J504.
Screenshot_20220131-073300 (resized).pngScreenshot_20220131-073300 (resized).png

#8858 2 years ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

THanks. Feel really dumb for missing that and not looking at the manual

Glad to help. Don't feel dumb. I only knew cause mine came loose in transit the other day. Have fun.

3 months later
#9134 1 year ago

I've been poking around but my Google-fu isn't turning up anything fruitful.
How would you guys go about filling in this common divot where the ball launches?
This game is a keeper so I'm not too concerned about painting to match, just want to fill it in and protect from getting any deeper.

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#9139 1 year ago

Wow, thanks for the great advice guys.
This is a permanent stay and a players condition that'll be in my cellar till I'm gone. I'm leaning much more towards the 'down and dirty' method as it's not a visible area like was said.
Clearcoating sounds daunting, I'm much more open to trying to contain it to that corner.
Do you mean clear in a can and spray a ton of layers until it's flush?
I'm in the middle of tearing down the whole top side so I'd like to know what to order soon.

#9142 1 year ago

Awesome, thanks everyone. I'll have to post in here when I'm closer to ready for this.

4 months later
#9470 1 year ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

I've been poking around but my Google-fu isn't turning up anything fruitful.
How would you guys go about filling in this common divot where the ball launches?
This game is a keeper so I'm not too concerned about painting to match, just want to fill it in and protect from getting any deeper.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm drudging this old post up sorry. Would I be wrong in assuming I could fill the divot with jb weld, sand it, paint over it and put mylar over the top?
I'm just not sure about the actual process of filling it with clear-coat as some users suggested.
Thanks in advance

#9475 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

I’ve had success with taping the perimeter, adding A/B JB Weld, sand and model paint. However, it doesn’t sand easily. You could use a softer wood filling bond, model paint and Mylar over the top. It’s basically as difficult as you want to make it.

Thanks for the advice. I'll plan on doing that. Would JB weld kwikwood work as well?

1 month later
#9509 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

I’m trying to find a controlled lamp that only flashes when dracula says a voice line. I know the flasher in the coffin does this but I’m wanting to find another one to hook some accent lighting into that isn’t on the flasher circuit. The coin door does it in sync but is also on at other random times . Anyone done this and know what to tie into?

I believe under the ramp in the back right corner of the playfield there's a bulb that lights when drac speaks. I can't remember if it's always on otherwise though. Probably is unfortunately.

#9510 1 year ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

I'm drudging this old post up sorry. Would I be wrong in assuming I could fill the divot with jb weld, sand it, paint over it and put mylar over the top?
I'm just not sure about the actual process of filling it with clear-coat as some users suggested.
Thanks in advance

As an update, I filled the divot in with jb weld quikwood this weekend. Didn't get sanded quite as flush as I wanted but was worried to damage the area around it and the bump is very slight.
Covered with mylar and got the game back playing. Lots of friends came over and had a blast playing. No one even noticed the repair, I'm glad it's done with.

New GI and LED OCD boards and this machine is stunning. Just in time for Halloween.

Now I'm working on replacing the tee nut under the left coffin ramp post. That spot gets a lot of abuse.
Thanks for your help everyone, and Happy Halloween

7 months later
#10290 10 months ago
Quoted from Cariba:

Now I need to figure out:
3) When the ball ejects OUT from the Rats chute, isn't there a sound effect (I know there is one on the BSD virtual version I play)- but mine does not? is it a switch or sensor issue? a setting?

Does the altar animation play on the DMD?

#10294 10 months ago
Quoted from Cariba:

Seems to eject out normally, and yes I get the altar animation, seems to all be okay - that's why its weird to me that I don't hear that other sound on eject. Maybe there is a switch not being closed on eject that lets CPU/Sound board to play that sound?
Now that I can lift PF up I'll inspect and run some switch tests on that solenoid system

To my knowledge there's only one opto switch down in the hole, so if it's crediting you an altar and kicking out the VUK the switch is working normally.

#10297 10 months ago
Quoted from Cariba:

Yes...but wondering if the kick-out coil have switches on them?

Not on this game unfortunately.

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1 month later
#10434 9 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

I have 2 errors on my game.
Opto #52 error - I think this is on the left side. How do I get to this opto?
The ball auto fires to the right side mist hold area but immediately drops the ball onto the playfield.
Thanks

That's the opto in the left mist pocket. Check with your cell phone to see if the transmitter is outputting light. You should see purple light through your camera lens.

You'll probably have to take off the abbey mold, left VUK wire form and plastic to get to it but it's a quick job.

If you do have light from the transmitter, try to realign it with the transmitter.
If you don't have light, try to shine an incandescent flashlight into the receiver while in switch edge test.

If both or either fail this test try to resolder them back on.

#10448 9 months ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

Nearly every phone camera these days has a UV filter, so you won’t be able to see that anymore.

That's news to me. Works for me every time. Is that an iPhone thing?

#10450 9 months ago
Quoted from marksf123:

I have 2 errors on my game.
Opto #52 error - I think this is on the left side. How do I get to this opto?
The ball auto fires to the right side mist hold area but immediately drops the ball onto the playfield.
Thanks

Ok well, if you've got no cameras that detect it you'll have to use your multimeter.
You should get ~1.4v across the legs of the LED transmitter.
You should get ~.5v on the receiver while unblocked and ~12v if the beam is blocked.

3 weeks later
#10490 8 months ago

My game has an issue where it will start playing a little ascending synth tune (I think the same if you trap up with no modes going for too long) randomly during attract mode. Doesn't seem to be a consistent timer for when it will start, but once started only a reset will get it to stop for a few minutes.
Attract mode sound is OFF.
It's done it since I bought it 18 months or so ago.
Slight bummer because I have to keep it turned off in my lineup unless someone is going to immediately play. Too annoying to keep on.

2 months later
#10769 5 months ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

I have LED and GI OCD boards in nearly all of my games and some need it more than others.. BSD, CONGO, JM drastically improve with the GI OCD... Whereas games like The Getaway, The Shadow, STTNG, or IJ have more of a need for the LED OCD board (Less dimming of the GI, no "Fancy" Light shows like the above games.

Right on. I don't think any game would be a bad use of the OCD boards but some games do have a more dazzling light show than others. In my opinion both OCDs on BSD are a must.

1 month later
#10923 3 months ago

Does anyone else have an issue where if the ball is in the right mist staging area and is struck by the ball in play it'll release the mist ball?
You can drain the free multiball without penalty and play as normal.
Seems like it might be because the mist ball can backtrack enough to re trigger the opto and the gate releases and loads another.

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