(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

9 years ago


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  • Latest reply 2 days ago by ClassicHornet
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Topic index (key posts)

34 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 9,464 posts in this topic. You are on page 190 of 190.
#9451 4 days ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

What is everyone here doing for flipper coils? I ask because my flippers, which have been rebuilt recently (and had new coils installed within the last few years because the previous ones were a little melty), suck. I can hit the left ramp no problem in the first few flips of the first game, but it quickly becomes almost impossible, with the ball barely able to make it on a perfect shot, if at all.
Tonight I finally opened it up right after a frustrating game, and sure enough, the coils are really hot to the touch, particularly the right flipper coil (and the flipper plungers are even hotter).
I'm using FL-15411 from Pincoil.
Every time I see one of these on location, I play it for comparison, and they all have much stronger flips than mine. What gives?
Other information: pitch is at 6.5 degrees, and both EOS switches are working (though that shouldn't matter for the issue at hand for this generation of game).

Im pretty sure the manual says FL11629

#9452 3 days ago
Quoted from ClassicHornet:

Im pretty sure the manual says FL11629

According to the manual, they're FL-15411
pasted_image (resized).png

Just spitballing, but it's possible that the hold winding is never getting power from the fliptronics board. Only high, causing it to overheat way too fast. Do you have another known good fliptronics board you could swap in to the game to see if anything changes?

#9453 3 days ago

Original 15411s in my machine. It flips

Quoted from ryanwanger:

What is everyone here doing for flipper coils? I ask because my flippers, which have been rebuilt recently (and had new coils installed within the last few years because the previous ones were a little melty), suck. I can hit the left ramp no problem in the first few flips of the first game, but it quickly becomes almost impossible, with the ball barely able to make it on a perfect shot, if at all.
Tonight I finally opened it up right after a frustrating game, and sure enough, the coils are really hot to the touch, particularly the right flipper coil (and the flipper plungers are even hotter).
I'm using FL-15411 from Pincoil.
Every time I see one of these on location, I play it for comparison, and they all have much stronger flips than mine. What gives?
Other information: pitch is at 6.5 degrees, and both EOS switches are working (though that shouldn't matter for the issue at hand for this generation of game).

Original Williams 15411s in my machine. It flips strong no matter how long I play it.

#9454 3 days ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

According to the manual, they're FL-15411
[quoted image]
Just spitballing, but it's possible that the hold winding is never getting power from the fliptronics board. Only high, causing it to overheat way too fast. Do you have another known good fliptronics board you could swap in to the game to see if anything changes?

Interesting theory. Will the board compensate by using the high power when the hold is not working?

I do have another board I could swap in, but I would like to try and test your theory with my current board though. Manual shows that J902-11 is "Orange-Green (holding) lower right flipper coil", and J907-8 is "Blue-Yellow (+50v) to lower right flipper coil". How would I go about testing this?

#9455 3 days ago

If the hold winding is not energized (does not work) then if you hold the cabinet flipper button in the flipper will "chatter". The power winding will energize and the EOS switch will close. The software will either de-energize the power winding after a set amount of time or when the EOS switch closes. Without the hold winding the flipper bat will return to rest (the spring) and this will cause the EOS switch to open. The software sees the cabinet flipper button is still pressed but the EOS switch is open and will then re-energize the power winding. This results in "chatter" or a "chimp flipping" effect.

The software will NOT continually energize the power winding. This will cause the fuse to blow. It will NOT pulse the solenoid like the Deger or Stern system. I have not looked at the actual software (code) so I cannot say for certain that it responds to the EOS switch state. I suspect the software would de-energize the power winding when the EOS switch closes. The heat is coming from the power winding not the hold winding. If you want to be sure measure the resistance of the windings. For FL-15411 the power winding should be in the 4 Ohm range and the hold winding probably in the 100-150 Ohm range.

#9456 3 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

If the hold winding is not energized (does not work) then if you hold the cabinet flipper button in the flipper will "chatter". The power winding will energize and the EOS switch will close. The software will either de-energize the power winding after a set amount of time or when the EOS switch closes. Without the hold winding the flipper bat will return to rest (the spring) and this will cause the EOS switch to open. The software sees the cabinet flipper button is still pressed but the EOS switch is open and will then re-energize the power winding. This results in "chatter" or a "chimp flipping" effect.
The software will NOT continually energize the power winding. This will cause the fuse to blow. It will NOT pulse the solenoid like the Deger or Stern system. I have not looked at the actual software (code) so I cannot say for certain that it responds to the EOS switch state. I suspect the software would de-energize the power winding when the EOS switch closes. The heat is coming from the power winding not the hold winding. If you want to be sure measure the resistance of the windings. For FL-15411 the power winding should be in the 4 Ohm range and the hold winding probably in the 100-150 Ohm range.

This is excellent, thank you. The flipper doesn't chatter.

My understanding is that with fliptronics (and newer stuff), timing in software determines the switch from high power to hold, regardless of EOS state. The EOS is used as a backup if a ball hits an extended flipper so hard that it starts to drop the flipper...in which case the EOS opens, telling the game to quickly turn back on the high power.

I'll check the resistance and report back.

#9457 3 days ago

Just encountered an issue after a few years of owning a BSD. When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? Possibly a failing Opto board?

#9458 3 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

Just encountered an issue after a few years of owning a BSD. When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? Possibly a failing Opto board?

My first guess is that the switch in the shooter lane (where the ball is plunged from) might be stuck closed. What happens when you look at that during a switch test?

#9459 3 days ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

My first guess is that the switch in the shooter lane (where the ball is plunged from) might be stuck closed. What happens when you look at that during a switch test?

Nope, that switch is ok. Also tested the launch button switch, and it's good too. However all the switches on row #4 of the switch matrix (white / yellow wires) are not registering in a switch test. This is the same row that the launch ball button is on. All the white / yellow wires seem to be connected properly to the switches listed in the row...so I was wondering if the Opto board was maybe the culprit since Opto Castle 2 switch is on this row too.

#9460 3 days ago

I just replaced all of the LM339s on my opto board. Fixed a lot of weird switch errors.
Right now, I'm scratching my head over a weak shooter. Sometimes it doesn't make it to the drop target. Not sure what is going on yet.

#9461 3 days ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:I just replaced all of the LM339s on my opto board. Fixed a lot of weird switch errors.
Right now, I'm scratching my head over a weak shooter. Sometimes it doesn't make it to the drop target. Not sure what is going on yet.

Film with your camera in slo-mo to see if it’s hanging up or hitting something

#9462 3 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds.

Be sure shooter lane switch moves up and down freely in the slot in the playfield. Isn't sticking or getting hit by the shooter rod.

Shooter lane switch is #17, left rear of the playfield is switches #15, and #16 . Be sure green wire brown stripe is solid on all three.

LTG : )

#9463 2 days ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

If you want to be sure measure the resistance of the windings. For FL-15411 the power winding should be in the 4 Ohm range and the hold winding probably in the 100-150 Ohm range.

I just measured. Both flippers are around 4.5 for the power and 145 for the hold. (And conveniently the specs are actually printed on the coil sleeve itself!).

And then, because of something I was reading in another thread, I checked the gap between the bushing and the flipper bat. It was almost non-existent. There was too much friction when trying to flip.

I'm always very particular about that gap, but in this case, the flippers were rebuilt by someone else. Anyway, it's all good now. I always assumed that the symptom of that problem was "weak flippers", and hadn't considered it could be "initially strong flippers that start to overheat". Thanks!

#9464 2 days ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

Just encountered an issue after a few years of owning a BSD. When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? Possibly a failing Opto board?

Castle opto switch 53, I just had the same issue, test report said #53, my up down post was firing also

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