(Topic ID: 29878)

Bram Stokers Dracula Club....Welcome to the Carpathians

By shacklersrevenge

11 years ago


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There are 11,244 posts in this topic. You are on page 190 of 225.
#9451 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

What is everyone here doing for flipper coils? I ask because my flippers, which have been rebuilt recently (and had new coils installed within the last few years because the previous ones were a little melty), suck. I can hit the left ramp no problem in the first few flips of the first game, but it quickly becomes almost impossible, with the ball barely able to make it on a perfect shot, if at all.
Tonight I finally opened it up right after a frustrating game, and sure enough, the coils are really hot to the touch, particularly the right flipper coil (and the flipper plungers are even hotter).
I'm using FL-15411 from Pincoil.
Every time I see one of these on location, I play it for comparison, and they all have much stronger flips than mine. What gives?
Other information: pitch is at 6.5 degrees, and both EOS switches are working (though that shouldn't matter for the issue at hand for this generation of game).

Im pretty sure the manual says FL11629

#9452 1 year ago
Quoted from ClassicHornet:

Im pretty sure the manual says FL11629

According to the manual, they're FL-15411
pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Just spitballing, but it's possible that the hold winding is never getting power from the fliptronics board. Only high, causing it to overheat way too fast. Do you have another known good fliptronics board you could swap in to the game to see if anything changes?

#9453 1 year ago

Original 15411s in my machine. It flips

Quoted from ryanwanger:

What is everyone here doing for flipper coils? I ask because my flippers, which have been rebuilt recently (and had new coils installed within the last few years because the previous ones were a little melty), suck. I can hit the left ramp no problem in the first few flips of the first game, but it quickly becomes almost impossible, with the ball barely able to make it on a perfect shot, if at all.
Tonight I finally opened it up right after a frustrating game, and sure enough, the coils are really hot to the touch, particularly the right flipper coil (and the flipper plungers are even hotter).
I'm using FL-15411 from Pincoil.
Every time I see one of these on location, I play it for comparison, and they all have much stronger flips than mine. What gives?
Other information: pitch is at 6.5 degrees, and both EOS switches are working (though that shouldn't matter for the issue at hand for this generation of game).

Original Williams 15411s in my machine. It flips strong no matter how long I play it.

#9454 1 year ago
Quoted from mbaumle:

According to the manual, they're FL-15411
[quoted image]
Just spitballing, but it's possible that the hold winding is never getting power from the fliptronics board. Only high, causing it to overheat way too fast. Do you have another known good fliptronics board you could swap in to the game to see if anything changes?

Interesting theory. Will the board compensate by using the high power when the hold is not working?

I do have another board I could swap in, but I would like to try and test your theory with my current board though. Manual shows that J902-11 is "Orange-Green (holding) lower right flipper coil", and J907-8 is "Blue-Yellow (+50v) to lower right flipper coil". How would I go about testing this?

#9455 1 year ago

If the hold winding is not energized (does not work) then if you hold the cabinet flipper button in the flipper will "chatter". The power winding will energize and the EOS switch will close. The software will either de-energize the power winding after a set amount of time or when the EOS switch closes. Without the hold winding the flipper bat will return to rest (the spring) and this will cause the EOS switch to open. The software sees the cabinet flipper button is still pressed but the EOS switch is open and will then re-energize the power winding. This results in "chatter" or a "chimp flipping" effect.

The software will NOT continually energize the power winding. This will cause the fuse to blow. It will NOT pulse the solenoid like the Deger or Stern system. I have not looked at the actual software (code) so I cannot say for certain that it responds to the EOS switch state. I suspect the software would de-energize the power winding when the EOS switch closes. The heat is coming from the power winding not the hold winding. If you want to be sure measure the resistance of the windings. For FL-15411 the power winding should be in the 4 Ohm range and the hold winding probably in the 100-150 Ohm range.

#9456 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

If the hold winding is not energized (does not work) then if you hold the cabinet flipper button in the flipper will "chatter". The power winding will energize and the EOS switch will close. The software will either de-energize the power winding after a set amount of time or when the EOS switch closes. Without the hold winding the flipper bat will return to rest (the spring) and this will cause the EOS switch to open. The software sees the cabinet flipper button is still pressed but the EOS switch is open and will then re-energize the power winding. This results in "chatter" or a "chimp flipping" effect.
The software will NOT continually energize the power winding. This will cause the fuse to blow. It will NOT pulse the solenoid like the Deger or Stern system. I have not looked at the actual software (code) so I cannot say for certain that it responds to the EOS switch state. I suspect the software would de-energize the power winding when the EOS switch closes. The heat is coming from the power winding not the hold winding. If you want to be sure measure the resistance of the windings. For FL-15411 the power winding should be in the 4 Ohm range and the hold winding probably in the 100-150 Ohm range.

This is excellent, thank you. The flipper doesn't chatter.

My understanding is that with fliptronics (and newer stuff), timing in software determines the switch from high power to hold, regardless of EOS state. The EOS is used as a backup if a ball hits an extended flipper so hard that it starts to drop the flipper...in which case the EOS opens, telling the game to quickly turn back on the high power.

I'll check the resistance and report back.

#9457 1 year ago

Just encountered an issue after a few years of owning a BSD. When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? Possibly a failing Opto board?

#9458 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

Just encountered an issue after a few years of owning a BSD. When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? Possibly a failing Opto board?

My first guess is that the switch in the shooter lane (where the ball is plunged from) might be stuck closed. What happens when you look at that during a switch test?

#9459 1 year ago
Quoted from ryanwanger:

My first guess is that the switch in the shooter lane (where the ball is plunged from) might be stuck closed. What happens when you look at that during a switch test?

Nope, that switch is ok. Also tested the launch button switch, and it's good too. However all the switches on row #4 of the switch matrix (white / yellow wires) are not registering in a switch test. This is the same row that the launch ball button is on. All the white / yellow wires seem to be connected properly to the switches listed in the row...so I was wondering if the Opto board was maybe the culprit since Opto Castle 2 switch is on this row too.

#9460 1 year ago

I just replaced all of the LM339s on my opto board. Fixed a lot of weird switch errors.
Right now, I'm scratching my head over a weak shooter. Sometimes it doesn't make it to the drop target. Not sure what is going on yet.

#9461 1 year ago
Quoted from ThatOneDude:I just replaced all of the LM339s on my opto board. Fixed a lot of weird switch errors.
Right now, I'm scratching my head over a weak shooter. Sometimes it doesn't make it to the drop target. Not sure what is going on yet.

Film with your camera in slo-mo to see if it’s hanging up or hitting something

#9462 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds.

Be sure shooter lane switch moves up and down freely in the slot in the playfield. Isn't sticking or getting hit by the shooter rod.

Shooter lane switch is #17, left rear of the playfield is switches #15, and #16 . Be sure green wire brown stripe is solid on all three.

LTG : )

#9463 1 year ago
Quoted from DumbAss:

If you want to be sure measure the resistance of the windings. For FL-15411 the power winding should be in the 4 Ohm range and the hold winding probably in the 100-150 Ohm range.

I just measured. Both flippers are around 4.5 for the power and 145 for the hold. (And conveniently the specs are actually printed on the coil sleeve itself!).

And then, because of something I was reading in another thread, I checked the gap between the bushing and the flipper bat. It was almost non-existent. There was too much friction when trying to flip.

I'm always very particular about that gap, but in this case, the flippers were rebuilt by someone else. Anyway, it's all good now. I always assumed that the symptom of that problem was "weak flippers", and hadn't considered it could be "initially strong flippers that start to overheat". Thanks!

#9464 1 year ago
Quoted from ArcadeVideo:

Just encountered an issue after a few years of owning a BSD. When I power up the game, the shooter rod starts firing every few seconds. Has anyone dealt with this in the past? Possibly a failing Opto board?

Castle opto switch 53, I just had the same issue, test report said #53, my up down post was firing also

#9465 1 year ago

Okay guys, I'm pretty sure my issue was answered in another post but I can't seem to find it.
Anyways, my mist magnet works perfectly in test mode. Ball goes from one gate to the other. However during game play, the ball, when leaving the right side gate....will drop before it enters the left gate. It's like the magnet just stops magnatizing. Seems to happen. Near the "D" in Dracula.

Thoughts?

#9466 1 year ago

Broken wire in the coiled harness you can't see cutting power to the magnet ?

LTG : )

#9467 1 year ago
Quoted from LTG:

Broken wire in the coiled harness you can't see cutting power to the magnet ?
LTG : )

If that was the case, would the ball also drop during test mode? In test mode, the ball makes it all the way across.

#9468 1 year ago
Quoted from Moomert1:

If that was the case, would the ball also drop during test mode? In test mode, the ball makes it all the way across.

In Test it's getting more power, nothing else is going. So a wire hanging by a hair might get enough to work.

My guess. Opto issue would be next.

LTG : )

#9469 1 year ago
Quoted from ClassicHornet:

Castle opto switch 53, I just had the same issue, test report said #53, my up down post was firing also

Yes My test report says Opto switch 54 (Castle onto #2). Did replacing the Opto switch fix the issue for you?

#9470 1 year ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

I've been poking around but my Google-fu isn't turning up anything fruitful.
How would you guys go about filling in this common divot where the ball launches?
This game is a keeper so I'm not too concerned about painting to match, just want to fill it in and protect from getting any deeper.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I'm drudging this old post up sorry. Would I be wrong in assuming I could fill the divot with jb weld, sand it, paint over it and put mylar over the top?
I'm just not sure about the actual process of filling it with clear-coat as some users suggested.
Thanks in advance

#9471 1 year ago
Quoted from Jwf_pinball:

I'm drudging this old post up sorry. Would I be wrong in assuming I could fill the divot with jb weld, sand it, paint over it and put mylar over the top?
I'm just not sure about the actual process of filling it with clear-coat as some users suggested.
Thanks in advance

I’ve had success with taping the perimeter, adding A/B JB Weld, sand and model paint. However, it doesn’t sand easily. You could use a softer wood filling bond, model paint and Mylar over the top. It’s basically as difficult as you want to make it.

#9472 1 year ago

Wondering if anyone has advice for these two issues;
1) Sw 82 is 'flickering' on and off. This is intermittent, sometimes it still works ok and I can reliably interrupt the beam with my finger, but when it is 'flickering' it doesnt seem to respond to changes in the beam path. Might need to replace this opto?
2) Fuse that controls the GI for the Pops/left center lights keeps blowing. I have gone through 3 now. (5 watt slow blow, as in manual). What might make a fuse repeatedly blow?

#9473 1 year ago

Opto may be out of alignment.

You may have a short to ground , take a good look underneath and see if any metal/wires are touching something they shouldn’t be.

15C9F528-E8A7-4BD1-9AE2-5A206D38E096 (resized).jpeg15C9F528-E8A7-4BD1-9AE2-5A206D38E096 (resized).jpeg
#9474 1 year ago

If anyone has a BSD their thinking of selling and are in Colorado or going to expo let me know!

#9475 1 year ago
Quoted from Da-Shaker:

I’ve had success with taping the perimeter, adding A/B JB Weld, sand and model paint. However, it doesn’t sand easily. You could use a softer wood filling bond, model paint and Mylar over the top. It’s basically as difficult as you want to make it.

Thanks for the advice. I'll plan on doing that. Would JB weld kwikwood work as well?

#9476 1 year ago

So, an update.
1) My shooter plunger was borked, and once I stuck another one in there, it shoots fine.
2) My castle release was releasing multiple balls if more than one was in the pipe. I took it off, polished and cleaned it. Then, it was actually blocking them too much. So, I added a spacer under the mount to drop the height slightly, and now it's spot on.
3) I also discovered that 2 of the 3 right flipper bushing screws had fallen out. Pulled it apart and rebuilt it last night.

I got back to back champion scores after all of this, so I'm a happy camper. This game will be hanging out at The Flipper Room in Concord, CA, for October.

#9477 1 year ago

Hey all. I'm going to be doing an interview with Paul Heitsch, who composed this game, (tentatively) next week on my youtube channel. If you guys have any questions about his work on BSD or other pinballs feel free to drop them here or PM me and I'll do my best to ask them. I'm definitely going to be asking a few questions about this game since its my favorite pin.

#9478 1 year ago

I'm looking for a few original coffin parts. Are they still available anywhere?

Smoked Coffin Cover #03-8770
Red clear plate that sits below the dracula figure that the light pcb sits on. (part #?)
The plastic coffin base (part# ?)

#9479 1 year ago
Quoted from The_Pump_House:

I'm looking for a few original coffin parts. Are they still available anywhere?
Smoked Coffin Cover #03-8770
Red clear plate that sits below the dracula figure that the light pcb sits on. (part #?)
The plastic coffin base (part# ?)

I was looking for the coffin base for my restore and there was none around anywhere, not sure on the other 2

#9480 1 year ago

The mist optos on my BSD failed. I got replacements, but it seems like I have to tear down a ton of the PF to get at them Is there an easier way to replace these things?

#9481 1 year ago
Quoted from ieure:

The mist optos on my BSD failed. I got replacements, but it seems like I have to tear down a ton of the PF to get at them Is there an easier way to replace these things?

It's not quite as bad as it seems. I assume you're referring to the 2 sets of pocket optos and the long range opto. Just remove the ramps and plastics on both sides, the village, and castle, some wireforms..... actually, yeah it is a pain in the butt. Lol. However, it could be worse. No easy way I'm aware of. Just gotta take lots of pictures and pay attention.

#9482 1 year ago
Quoted from ieure:

The mist optos on my BSD failed. I got replacements, but it seems like I have to tear down a ton of the PF to get at them Is there an easier way to replace these things?

You sure you have to replace them? My mist feature was failing, forget the errors, but the opto bd from Pinball Life fixed her right up.

#9483 1 year ago
Quoted from CoolCatPinball:

It's not quite as bad as it seems. I assume you're referring to the 2 sets of pocket optos and the long range opto. Just remove the ramps and plastics on both sides, the village, and castle, some wireforms..... actually, yeah it is a pain in the butt. Lol. However, it could be worse. No easy way I'm aware of. Just gotta take lots of pictures and pay attention.

I've done it before, it suuuuucks. I tore down nearly the whole topside when I first got it to clean, replace broken plastics, and install LEDs. Pretty annoyed that I have to do it again just for some optos.

Quoted from poppapin:

You sure you have to replace them? My mist feature was failing, forget the errors, but the opto bd from Pinball Life fixed her right up.

Hmmm, I don't know, but it seemed like a safe assumption. The switch that isn't working is 82, Ball on Magnet. It'd been working for years, then quit. Figured since that was the only failure, the optos were the most likely culprit.

#9484 1 year ago
Quoted from ieure:

Hmmm, I don't know, but it seemed like a safe assumption. The switch that isn't working is 82, Ball on Magnet. It'd been working for years, then quit. Figured since that was the only failure, the optos were the most likely culprit.

What does switch test reveal? Does Ball on Magnet randomly flicker on and off during test mode? If so, it is likely a poor connection somewhere. I had a similar issue and it turned out to be a poor wire connection to the opto.

#9485 1 year ago

MODS !
For a long time after I got my drac I spent hours trolling through this feed in this group and got inspired and loved what people had done to their machines
Here's my current list and some last wish list items
I know some people are anti mods but if they make you happy it's good right ?!
List:
Red start button
Coffin cross plunger led..linked to LND ball save
Launch button insert
Art blades
Apron blue led
Drain lanes impaled skeletons
Rats !
Castle blue rocks print out on outside of ramp chute
Anodised nuts and screws
Green spotlight across mist track
Targets and decals
Vampire cross
Wolves
Miscellaneous vampire bats
Morpheus tombstone mod
Mezel mods lanterns
Graveyard green led strip
Scoop leds
To do: lighted topper, repaint coin door and lighted speakers (diy)

Cheers ! Love this game !!

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#9486 1 year ago
Quoted from paulie484:

MODS !
For a long time after I got my drac I spent hours trolling through this feed in this group and got inspired and loved what people had done to their machines
Here's my current list and some last wish list items
I know some people are anti mods but if they make you happy it's good right ?!
List:
Red start button
Coffin cross plunger led..linked to LND ball save
Launch button insert
Art blades
Apron blue led
Drain lanes impaled skeletons
Rats !
Castle blue rocks print out on outside of ramp chute
Anodised nuts and screws
Green spotlight across mist track
Targets and decals
Vampire cross
Wolves
Miscellaneous vampire bats
Morpheus tombstone mod
Mezel mods lanterns
Graveyard green led strip
Scoop leds
To do: lighted topper, repaint coin door and lighted speakers (diy)
Cheers ! Love this game !![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Badass man!!!! Where can I get these??? Lol

#9487 1 year ago

Where did you get the stone ramp decal for the outside of the ramp?

#9488 1 year ago
Quoted from Jodannar:

Where did you get the stone ramp decal for the outside of the ramp?

There was someone on this forum producing them a while ago but is no longer selling them so I sussed out a version myself...PM me and I'll send you the pdf (if I can still find it !)

Mine's not a decal sticker yet but will sort later (currently just printed on paper)

2 weeks later
#9489 1 year ago

Hi - are repro BSD ramps available yet? Desperate for a set to finish my restoration.

#9490 1 year ago

To me one of the best mods for BSD is put this comet LED strips under the grave yard.

Link:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips

5DBE6C70-4B1E-43B4-9E66-1D1DB0246785 (resized).jpeg5DBE6C70-4B1E-43B4-9E66-1D1DB0246785 (resized).jpeg
#9491 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinrookie:

To me one of the best mods for BSD is put this comet LED strips under the grave yard.
Link:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips[quoted image]

What color did you go with? And attached to the ramp?

#9492 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

What color did you go with? And attached to the ramp?

I am using sunlights white and yes, I am stick them (10SMD 4 inches x 3) inside the grave yard plastic.

#9493 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinrookie:

I am using sunlights white and yes, I am stick them (10SMD 4 inches x 3) on the ramp.

Can you do this without removing the ramp?

#9494 1 year ago
Quoted from fossmin:

Can you do this without removing the ramp?

If I remember correctly you need to remove the ramp in order to take the grave yard plastic out.

#9495 1 year ago
Quoted from allsportdvd:

What color did you go with? And attached to the ramp?

You could use 1 x 10” strip, I think that would be easier than 3 x 4” ??

#9496 1 year ago
Quoted from ClassicHornet:

You could use 1 x 10” strip, I think that would be easier than 3 x 4” ??

Yes, it would but the reason I break it down with 3 x 4 is because when the machine in attraction mode the grave yard can be divided into two parts and each part can turn on and off separately. Anyway if I do it all over again I more likely will use 1 x 4 inches and 1 x 8 inches.

#9497 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinrookie:

To me one of the best mods for BSD is put this comet LED strips under the grave yard.
Link:
https://www.cometpinball.com/products/lighting-strips[quoted image]

Looks awesome. I’ve had BSD for 2-3 years and I use Comet led strips and other matrix light mods and hadn’t thought to do that. I’m going to try blue or green and see how they look. Thanks for the tip!

#9498 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

I’m going to try blue or green and see how they look. Thanks for the tip!

You are welcome. Please show us some pictures when it’s done

#9499 1 year ago

***** Pinsound owners *****

So I’m redoing all sounds and music to one of my faves… just started late last night..

If you haven’t seen my “Epic” mixes for The Shadow or Johnny Mnemonic check out the vids below.. I wanted to make BSD have an actual Horror score… so here is a teaser of some music only that I’m working on implementing in the game.. again.. just started.. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the mix by Hazzard off Pinsounds website.. but I’m going for something different here and I love having options. Any kind of input is greatly appreciated as well. If there is any interest in my other games scores… just DM me and I’ll send you the download!

BSD teaser:

The Shadow:

Johnny Mnemonic:

#9500 1 year ago
Quoted from Luke_Nukem:

***** Pinsound owners *****
So I’m redoing all sounds and music to one of my faves… just started late last night..
If you haven’t seen my “Epic” mixes for The Shadow or Johnny Mnemonic check out the vids below.. I wanted to make BSD have an actual Horror score… so here is a teaser of some music only that I’m working on implementing in the game.. again.. just started.. I’ve thoroughly enjoyed the mix by Hazzard off Pinsounds website.. but I’m going for something different here and I love having options. Any kind of input is greatly appreciated as well. If there is any interest in my other games scores… just DM me and I’ll send you the download!
BSD teaser:
The Shadow:
Johnny Mnemonic:

Hazzard will be tough to beat. I'm excited to see what you come up with! I'd keep the kettle drum pop bumper sounds.

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