(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

6 years ago


Topic Heartbeat

Topic Stats

  • 11,955 posts
  • 771 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 33 minutes ago by DropGems
  • Topic is favorited by 324 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

View topic image gallery

IMG_2177 (resized).jpeg
56456889klyykk_blank1_640 (resized).jpg
56456889999 (resized).jpg
yellow-640 (resized).jpg
20240406_185845 (resized).jpg
20240406_185951 (resized).jpg
IMG_1758 (resized).jpeg
IMG_1709 (resized).jpeg
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_3405 (resized).jpeg
20240310_214233 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 11,955 posts in this topic. You are on page 190 of 240.
#9451 1 year ago
Quoted from pinthewin:

I know everyone is super stoked to get their game. As for me, i'm not off to a great start with my first spooky pin : (
Here are my issues upon unboxing and (attempting) to play all of 30 minutes:
1) The left slingshot randomly fires in 10 - 30 second bursts , even when there is no ball in play. This makes the game unplayable.
2) Theres a defect in the screen that looks almost like a water mark that doesn't go away.
3) The ball doesn't consistently launch properly. It often jumps up and out of the shooter lane, or dribbles. Upon closer inspection the screws have cam out and are not sitting flush.
4) The CE badge with edition number is slightly crooked. (minor, I know, but worth mentioning)
For the price paid, I was hoping for a little more care would have be put into the build and inspection. This machine should not have shipped as-is. But at least it sounds awesome lol.
Is QC a known issue with this company?
I've emailed Spooky support and trust they will promptly fix these issues.

Contact AJ on Monday. He’s responsive. My TNA arrived yesterday and I had 2-3 issues myself. My immediate reaction was the same ($9k+ and fit/finish frustrations?). But it will get worked out, and mine plays great. It’s been a blast. My lingering issue tho is the translite cannot be removed, because it cannot slide up far enough to clear the bottom channel on the cross-bar. It will slide up a little (I’m pushing up as hard as I can without breaking it) and it can’t clear the channel it’s sitting on. I wouldn’t care that much, except all the foam around the 4 digital displays slid down during shipping (I assume) and are resting directly over the front of the displays. Like this…
Any ideas?
My lock bar is too tight and doesn’t lock back into place either. Working on that.

3A44A4C6-871A-4876-8234-AE20C4C8362F (resized).jpeg3A44A4C6-871A-4876-8234-AE20C4C8362F (resized).jpeg
#9452 1 year ago
Quoted from pinthewin:

Is anyone still selling decals for the pop bumper and targets / drop targets for this game? The game looks incomplete without them.
Attention to details go a LONG way, the subtle multi-color sparkle in the powder coat is perfect example. I'm surprised Spooky sprung for that and at the same time overlooked such an inexpensive, flourish that would been a nice finishing touch on this game.

Flash Instinct has great ones!

6772D5C8-938F-490A-B168-2F4B1A9334E6 (resized).png6772D5C8-938F-490A-B168-2F4B1A9334E6 (resized).png
#9453 1 year ago
Quoted from pinthewin:

Good to know. Thank you. I haven't been in the hobby long enough to know if this is a common occurrence with NIB pins. I assumed NEW meant you don't have to work on it first to enjoy it.

NIB means you're MORE likely to have to tweak initially than a used pin where someone already did all that for you. That's true of all the manufacturers.

#9454 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

My lingering issue tho is the translite cannot be removed, because it cannot slide up far enough to clear the bottom channel on the cross-bar. It will slide up a little (I’m pushing up as hard as I can without breaking it) and it can’t clear the channel it’s sitting on.
[quoted image]

Did you lower the lcd panel before trying to lift the backglass out?

#9455 1 year ago
Quoted from twhtalm:

Did you lower the lcd panel before trying to lift the backglass out?

Yep, that’s not the issue. Thx tho.

#9456 1 year ago
Quoted from pinthewin:the price paid, I was hoping for a little more care would have be put into the build and inspection. This machine should not have shipped as-is. But at least it sounds awesome lol

First, NIB or “new” often means that you are the one working through all the small issues after unboxing, instead of the first guy you bought it from. It’s pinball.

Second, my opinion is you should be extremely grateful you’re having these issues with a spooky machine (or An American Machine) as well. These companies will both work directly with you and want you, the customer, to be happy. They will take care of You. If you had purchased a Stern NIB (and I’ve done more sterns than these two), then I’d be hoping you had a damn good local distributor that would be able to help you out cuz otherwise you’d be on your own with these issues.

#9457 1 year ago

Is the "watermark" effect you're seeing on the LCD actually the retro "bad video" effect they programmed into the graphics? My friend once looked at mine and said, "What's wrong with your screen?" There was nothing wrong...it was supposed to look old, like it was from the 80s. (And I think that's cool!)

#9458 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinkitten:

Contact AJ on Monday. He’s responsive. My TNA arrived yesterday and I had 2-3 issues myself. My immediate reaction was the same ($9k+ and fit/finish frustrations?). But it will get worked out, and mine plays great. It’s been a blast. My lingering issue tho is the translite cannot be removed, because it cannot slide up far enough to clear the bottom channel on the cross-bar. It will slide up a little (I’m pushing up as hard as I can without breaking it) and it can’t clear the channel it’s sitting on. I wouldn’t care that much, except all the foam around the 4 digital displays slid down during shipping (I assume) and are resting directly over the front of the displays. Like this…
Any ideas?
My lock bar is too tight and doesn’t lock back into place either. Working on that.
[quoted image]

Appreciate the contact heads-up. I also had the foam around the digital display blocking the player 1 score, except I was able to get my translite out with no struggle and pop it back. they are not very secure to begin with. a dab of hot glue might be in order.

#9459 1 year ago
Quoted from beelzeboob:

Is the "watermark" effect you're seeing on the LCD actually the retro "bad video" effect they programmed into the graphics? My friend once looked at mine and said, "What's wrong with your screen?" There was nothing wrong...it was supposed to look old, like it was from the 80s. (And I think that's cool!)

Pretty sure it's a defect, either a warped display bulging against the plastic, or within the display itself. I know the "glitchy" effect you're talking about.

#9460 1 year ago

How would I adjust the left back gate? Ball sometimes gets stuck on metal gate flap and have to shake loose.

#9461 1 year ago

Okay, so just wanted to see if anyone else experienced this:

My sister and kids were playing TNA while I was doing other stuff. I hear something about “Missing ball”.

My sister told me my kid plunged the ball and it flew into the top right of the playfield and went into the tiny hole in the back which the pinball landed on top of a circuit board at the bottom of the cabinet (after taking the glass and lifting the playfield up).

If you experienced this how do you resolve this from happening. My sister told me during a plunge the pinball would fly up off the playfield numerous times.

I can’t tell my kid to stop pulling on the plunger hard… or is that the only solution?

#9462 1 year ago
Quoted from beltking:

How would I adjust the left back gate? Ball sometimes gets stuck on metal gate flap and have to shake loose.

Bend up the metal gate flap with your finger a little bit (would be smart to wear a glove)

#9463 1 year ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

Okay, so just wanted to see if anyone else experienced this:
My sister and kids were playing TNA while I was doing other stuff. I hear something about “Missing ball”.
My sister told me my kid plunged the ball and it flew into the top right of the playfield and went into the tiny hole in the back which the pinball landed on top of a circuit board at the bottom of the cabinet (after taking the glass and lifting the playfield up).
If you experienced this how do you resolve this from happening. My sister told me during a plunge the pinball would fly up off the playfield numerous times.
I can’t tell my kid to stop pulling on the plunger hard… or is that the only solution?

You could go to a softer plunger spring.

#9464 1 year ago

Factory settings shake the whole house lol.

Volume at 2. Shaker on LOW seems to be the sweet spot.

#9465 1 year ago

You would think with a small run there would be more attention to detail and less issues for new owners - just saying

#9466 1 year ago

NIB straight out the box prob #2

After a few games, when the coils become warm…the flipper plungers retract very slowly into the resting position. Like a slow drag. Really sucks the wind out of the game. If I leave the game to cool down it goes back to snappy as hell…for three or so games. Then drag.

Anyone else having this prob? My first thought is to reassemble the flipper mechs and replace the coil sleeves.

#9467 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

NIB straight out the box prob #2
After a few games, when the coils become warm…the flipper plungers retract very slowly into the resetting position. Like a slow drag. Really sucks the wind out of the game. If I leave the game to cool down it goes back to snappy as hell…for three or so games. Then drag.
Anyone else having this prob? My first thought is to reassemble the flipper mechs and replace the coil sleeves.

My game doesn't have this issue and I've played some long games. Maybe the pawl is gapped too tight to the bushing?

#9468 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

NIB straight out the box prob #2
After a few games, when the coils become warm…the flipper plungers retract very slowly into the resting position. Like a slow drag. Really sucks the wind out of the game. If I leave the game to cool down it goes back to snappy as hell…for three or so games. Then drag.
Anyone else having this prob? My first thought is to reassemble the flipper mechs and replace the coil sleeves.

Manually move flippers when warm to see if it FEELS obstructed. If yes, check coil sleeves. If no, maybe take some loops out of the flipper return spring so it pulls back harder? If the spring they're using warms up, maybe it loses strength?

#9469 1 year ago

Flips forward full force when hot. I’ve never seen a hot spring but maybe it needs to be a few links tighter to pull back from the warm sleeve.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Manually move flippers when warm to see if it FEELS obstructed. If yes, check coil sleeves. If no, maybe take some loops out of the flipper return spring so it pulls back harder? If the spring they're using warms up, maybe it loses strength?

#9470 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Flips forward full force when hot. I’ve never seen a hot spring but maybe it needs to be a few links tighter to pull back from the warm sleeve.

I didn't say hot spring. I said warm. Metal can change properties a bit as it heats. Is it common? No. But it can happen.

#9471 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

NIB straight out the box prob #2
After a few games, when the coils become warm…the flipper plungers retract very slowly into the resting position. Like a slow drag. Really sucks the wind out of the game. If I leave the game to cool down it goes back to snappy as hell…for three or so games. Then drag.
Anyone else having this prob? My first thought is to reassemble the flipper mechs and replace the coil sleeves.

I agree with:

Quoted from Deez:Maybe the pawl is gapped too tight to the bushing?

If you grab the flipper bats and pull them up and down do they both move about the thickness of a credit card? See Vid's guide to rebuilding flippers starting here:

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers#post-284682

#9472 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

You could go to a softer plunger spring.

Will consider in the future.

#9473 1 year ago

I saw this little issue on one game. Turned off and back in the game… went away.

Is this an intermittent problem, or a loose RGB connector?

Have not played after turning off to verify it went away to know if this happens again.

28879851-E858-44DE-B1D3-67B4AC278986 (resized).jpeg28879851-E858-44DE-B1D3-67B4AC278986 (resized).jpeg
#9474 1 year ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

I saw this little issue on one game. Turned off and back in the game… went away.
Is this an intermittent problem, or a loose RGB connector?
Have not played after turning off to verify it went away to know if this happens again.
[quoted image]

I've had my game lock up twice and had to reboot. Seems fine now.

#9475 1 year ago

Check the two plugs im point toward, mine are hot glued but a friend who also got a CE had theirs come off during shipping and locked the lights on in a similar pattern, the board is on the right side just above middle playfield

PXL_20221102_222904677 (resized).jpgPXL_20221102_222904677 (resized).jpg
#9476 1 year ago

Tightened up springs a bit. Still loses a lot of power in about 3 games. Bats look like they are placed appropriately

Quoted from PinMonk:

I didn't say hot spring. I said warm. Metal can change properties a bit as it heats. Is it common? No. But it can happen.

#9477 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Tightened up springs a bit. Still loses a lot of power in about 3 games. Bats look like they are placed appropriately

Maybe check coil resistance cold and then warm when you notice the issue and see if you're seeing an unusual spike in resistance.

Also, how long is 3 games for you? Within 25 minutes of testing, the TNA right flipper was about 144F, which is into the fade zone where you will feel a loss of power. Left flipper was also over that, but it took 10 minutes longer. However, even if running hot, that doesn't make the flipper snap back to home slower...

#9478 1 year ago
Quoted from Venetic:

Check the two plugs im point toward, mine are hot glued but a friend who also got a CE had theirs come off during shipping and locked the lights on in a similar pattern, the board is on the right side just above middle playfield
[quoted image]

Thanks for suggestion. I’ll check it out when. Get home.

#9479 1 year ago
Quoted from mpdpvdpin:

Tightened up springs a bit. Still loses a lot of power in about 3 games. Bats look like they are placed appropriately

Can you check in the bottom of the cabinet and see if Spooky is using the Halloween/Ultraman power supply in these TNA re-runs? That's a model HRP-600. I doubt they are using the original TNA power supply, but wanted to verify.

#9480 1 year ago

I’ll take a look next time I’m at my location. My HWN flippers are amazing. I can play it for hours without feeling lag. In general my game times on TNA may be longer than average. I play pretty conservatively with lots of cradling and generally get to reactor 5 on most games.

Quoted from PinMonk:

Can you check in the bottom of the cabinet and see if Spooky is using the Halloween/Ultraman power supply in these TNA re-runs? That's a model HRP-600. I doubt they are using the original TNA power supply, but wanted to verify.

#9481 1 year ago

Hey guys! So the flipper thing. The flippers on TNA should not be running hot enough to have them lose any power. If you are seeing this, you need to 100% make sure they are adjusted properly. They should move up and down vertically only about the thickness of a credit card, no more or less. This will ensure no binding. Also, you can turn down your flipper power a bit too, I might have the defaults kinda high. I think this CE version has a new power supply in it and I do not have one to test to make sure the default power setting is correct.

Anyone think the default flipper power is too much?

--Scott

#9482 1 year ago

So I noticed my game lighting has a this almost 'blinking' effect, and I'm hoping someone can confirm if this is intended or not. I say 'blinking' because it happens as fast as a blink, like a fraction of a second, where ALL of the lights on the playfield go dark and then immediately re-illuminate. It mainly happens on impact of targets, which makes me think it's intentional, but then again, it's doesn't seem to be consistent, so maybe not? It doesn't seem to be part of an intended lighting transition (and sometimes it precedes one, like during ball lock where the strobing effect travels up the playfield). It's this sort of 'flash' that I never noticed until now. Anyone else notice this? It's like this split-second total lighting 'blip', is the best way I can describe it.

Edit: I watched some gameplay footage from 2018, and this appears to be an intentional lighting effect. Funny how I just now noticed it....

#9483 1 year ago

Thanks Scott, I’ll make these adjustments and report back.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey guys! So the flipper thing. The flippers on TNA should not be running hot enough to have them lose any power. If you are seeing this, you need to 100% make sure they are adjusted properly. They should move up and down vertically only about the thickness of a credit card, no more or less. This will ensure no binding. Also, you can turn down your flipper power a bit too, I might have the defaults kinda high. I think this CE version has a new power supply in it and I do not have one to test to make sure the default power setting is correct.
Anyone think the default flipper power is too much?
--Scott

#9484 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Anyone think the default flipper power is too much?

Flipper power is perfect. Feels amazing. Game shoots like butter.

#9485 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Hey guys! So the flipper thing. The flippers on TNA should not be running hot enough to have them lose any power. If you are seeing this, you need to 100% make sure they are adjusted properly. They should move up and down vertically only about the thickness of a credit card, no more or less. This will ensure no binding. Also, you can turn down your flipper power a bit too, I might have the defaults kinda high. I think this CE version has a new power supply in it and I do not have one to test to make sure the default power setting is correct.
Anyone think the default flipper power is too much?
--Scott

I have an OG TNA and I found that my ideal flipper setting is 26 using the recommended pitch.

#9486 1 year ago

#144 here, just got my butter/no butter email!

#9487 1 year ago
Quoted from tectonyc:

#144 here, just got my butter/no butter email!

Ditto for #170. I wonder how many games they can have on the line at once? I feel like the latest round of emails in which we got our game numbers now and butter/no butter went out in a fairly large batch.

#9488 1 year ago
Quoted from negz:

Ditto for #170. I wonder how many games they can have on the line at once? I feel like the latest round of emails in which we got our game numbers now and butter/no butter went out in a fairly large batch.

It's mostly to avoid delays with the butters, but we should be up to a steady pace of around 8-games per day.

#9489 1 year ago

#160 got my butter no butter e-mail today.
I’m going to need to win the power ball tonight so I can pay for it!

#9490 1 year ago
Quoted from lpeters82:

It's mostly to avoid delays with the butters, but we should be up to a steady pace of around 8-games per day.

8 TNA’s a day or does that include Ultraman and Halloween..

#9491 1 year ago
Quoted from Kenz:

8 TNA’s a day or does that include Ultraman and Halloween..

They are done making Ultraman and Halloween

#9492 1 year ago

Has anyone heard back that ordered from Lanez? I received an order confirmation email which said a shipment email would follow, but nothing yet. My card was charged on October 24, so I hope to receive the shooter rod housings soon.

#9493 1 year ago
Quoted from MacmanCubed:

Has anyone heard back that ordered from Lanez? I received an order confirmation email which said a shipment email would follow, but nothing yet. My card was charged on October 24, so I hope to receive the shooter rod housings soon.

Same here exact same day too.

It does say another email will be sent once shipped.

1C3158DE-B4C9-40E6-A69E-D762DC4390BA (resized).jpeg1C3158DE-B4C9-40E6-A69E-D762DC4390BA (resized).jpeg

#9494 1 year ago
Quoted from bob_e:

They are done making Ultraman and Halloween

Just curious…. how do you know this info?

Thanks.

#9495 1 year ago

Yeah I spoke with him my shooter was ordered first and shipped this morning.

#9496 1 year ago
Quoted from beltking:

Yeah I spoke with him my shooter was ordered first and shipped this morning.

Thanks for the update.

Post a picture when you get it!

#9497 1 year ago

What board set is the CE run using? I believe that the original used PROC?

#9498 1 year ago

Looks like a proc

PXL_20221110_171901308.jpgPXL_20221110_171901308.jpg
#9499 1 year ago
Quoted from Gogojohnnyquack:

What board set is the CE run using? I believe that the original used PROC?

It's the exact same Multimorphic P3-ROC system as the original. Same wiring and everything.
--Scott

#9500 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Same here exact same day too.
It does say another email will be sent once shipped.
[quoted image]

Just got my item shipped email with tracking from Lanez today. Can’t wait to see it up close!

Promoted items from Pinside Marketplace and Pinside Shops!
$ 3.75
Playfield - Protection
Pinball Mod Co.
 
$ 110.00
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Super Skill Shot Shop
 
From: $ 6.50
Playfield - Other
Rocket City Pinball
 
Trade
Machine - For Trade
Valley Center, KS
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Apron Envy
 
$ 10.00
Cabinet - Other
ScottieIA Mods
 
From: $ 12.00
Flipper Parts
Precision Pinball prod.
 
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
 
$ 11.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
ULEKstore
 
$ 169.95
Lighting - Other
Hookedonpinball.com
 
9,500
Machine - For Sale
Vandalia, OH
$ 129.95
Playfield - Toys/Add-ons
Hookedonpinball.com
 
Wanted
Machine - Wanted
Pensacola, FL
$ 44.99
Cabinet - Shooter Rods
Pinball Shark
 
From: $ 399.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball Mods
 
$ 15.00
Cabinet - Sound/Speakers
Gweem's Mods
 
9,990 (OBO)
Machine - For Sale
Happy Valley, OR
$ 20.00
Playfield - Protection
Pinhead mods
 
$ 43.95
Cabinet - Decals
Pinball Nerd Decals
 
From: $ 5.00
Playfield - Decals
Pinball Invasion
 
Hey modders!
Your shop name here
There are 11,955 posts in this topic. You are on page 190 of 240.

Reply

Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.

Hey there! Welcome to Pinside!

Donate to Pinside

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!


This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/190?hl=venetic and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.

Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.