(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



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21 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 20 (Show topic index)

There are 5939 posts in this topic. You are on page 57 of 119.
#2801 1 year ago

Thanks for the pics . I copied your install and my speaker lights are red only.

Double and triple checked and still red.

#2802 1 year ago
Quoted from frankmac:

Thanks for the pics . I copied your install and my speaker lights are red only.
Double and triple checked and still red.

Mine were installed at the factory and work correctly.

#2803 1 year ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Put a sheet of stern HD glass on my TNA this weekend. Super nice improvement with a lot less glare/reflection. Not a bad $240 upgrade

Thanks for reminding me that I need to order another sheet of anti glare glass. I’ll get that on order today.

#2804 1 year ago
Quoted from Shapeshifter:

Wow, the LCD is a must replace item for those who care about visuals.
Not that expensive considering the insane price of so many mods these days.

I just did the LCD screen swap. Super easy and only cost 100 bucks. Huge improvement!

#2805 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

I just did the LCD screen swap. Super easy and only cost 100 bucks. Huge improvement!

this is sold out -

ebay.com link » Hdmi Dvi Vga Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156hw01 Lp156wf1 1920x1080 Lcd

Any other option or what did you buy? I just bought the TV. For 100 seems like a no brainer.

EDIT - seems like this would work. 6 bucks more but from china.....

ebay.com link » Hdmi Dvi Vga Audio Controller Board For 15 6 034 B156hw01 Lp156wf1 1920x1080 Lcd

#2806 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

this is sold out -
ebay.com link » Hdmi Dvi Vga Audio Controller Board For 15 6 B156hw01 Lp156wf1 1920x1080 Lcd
Any other option or what did you buy? I just bought the TV. For 100 seems like a no brainer.
EDIT - seems like this would work. 6 bucks more. sure.
ebay.com link » Hdmi Dvi Vga Audio Controller Board For 15 6 034 B156hw01 Lp156wf1 1920x1080 Lcd

Yes that’s the one I had to get. Works perfectly.

#2807 1 year ago

OK - thanks!

Seems like it's being shipped from China. How long did yours take to get to you?

#2808 1 year ago

For the hooked on pinball light up sides - I'm trying to determine what the game looks like without this mod but the stock photos seems to look like they're installed b/c the words seem pink/purple by default.

How much of a diff is this add on?

#2809 1 year ago

I got my LCD parts from Amazon. Basically the same price (a few bucks cheaper, maybe?), and guaranteed 2-day Delivery.
If somebody can double-check that these are the correct items, I would be grateful. I'd hate to post incorrect info!

amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

#2810 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I got my LCD parts from Amazon. Basically the same price (a few bucks cheaper, maybe?), and guaranteed 2-day Delivery.
If somebody can double-check that these are the correct items, I would be grateful. I'd hate to post incorrect info!
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

oh man that would be best - waiting for confirmation. Driver seems identical not sure on screen.

#2811 1 year ago
Quoted from Pmaino:

More
Yes that’s the one I had to get. Works perfectly.

I messaged the eBay seller, and he gave me this link as an alternate - ebay.com link (same as as what delt31 posted) and said that even though it's shipped from China, it would be a 3-4 day delivery via DHL.

#2812 1 year ago

nothing beats prime though plus amazon return policy. Any thoughts on the prime links?

#2813 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

nothing beats prime though plus amazon return policy. Any thoughts on the prime links?

The images (and description) for the board on the Amazon and the eBay links show the LCD controller board to be identical. I think the screen is far easier to purchase (on eBay) so at this point, I was primarily worried about getting the right controller. I did order one on Amazon.

#2814 1 year ago

I'm in! Thanks to Zach and Greg at SDTM for the leg light ups (purple) they look amazing in person.

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#2815 1 year ago
Quoted from delt31:

OK - thanks!
Seems like it's being shipped from China. How long did yours take to get to you?

Took about a week and a half to get to me.

#2816 1 year ago

Mine arrived in 4 business days! No damage.

#2817 1 year ago

This is posted in another thread, but eBay is having a 20% off sale on eligible items today through 7pm PDT I believe (check for accuracy). Code is PICKDADSGIFT... and link is here with more details

ebay.com link

I put a new LCD screen, HDMI controller board, and a ceramic powerball in my cart to check if eligible and all 3 were... total savings of $28 or so. I haven't pulled the trigger yet as the jury is still out on the need to replace the LCD, but thought I'd post here in case others were thinking of going ahead with any of these mods.

#2818 1 year ago

Looking through the adjustments menu last night I saw one for prototype rollover. Is this left over from the original whitewood that had the star rollovers in the reactor area, or does turning this feature on do anything on the production machines?

#2819 1 year ago
Quoted from Crile1:

Looking through the adjustments menu last night I saw one for prototype rollover. Is this left over from the original whitewood that had the star rollovers in the reactor area, or does turning this feature on do anything on the production machines?

Yep. Left over from the whitewood. Someone should mod their game and add them back in...

10
#2820 1 year ago

Let nothing go to waste.

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#2821 1 year ago

Question: wasn't there an issue early on with some springs? Thought I read about that somewhere. Around what game number was that solved and implemented on newly built games?

#2822 1 year ago
Quoted from unigroove:

Question: wasn't there an issue early on with some springs? Thought I read about that somewhere. Around what game number was that solved and implemented on newly built games?

Flipper springs were breaking, not sure when resolved.

#2823 1 year ago

I know this is a terrible rookie question, but I cannot find a good guide for this…what is the best way to adjust leaf switches. I see that a lot of people like to adjust them out of the box for ultra sensitivity. I would like to do that as well, but I don’t exactly know how to do it. I always end up fumbling around with the leaf switch tool until it feels okay.

#2824 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I know this is a terrible rookie question, but I cannot find a good guide for this…what is the best way to adjust leaf switches. I see that a lot of people like to adjust them out of the box for ultra sensitivity. I would like to do that as well, but I don’t exactly know how to do it. I always end up fumbling around with the leaf switch tool until it feels okay.

You may find the leaf switches are fine.

However the foam used on the targets is very firm. A little too firm. They need to be softened up so the targets register with a decent hit.

rd

#2825 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I know this is a terrible rookie question, but I cannot find a good guide for this…what is the best way to adjust leaf switches. I see that a lot of people like to adjust them out of the box for ultra sensitivity. I would like to do that as well, but I don’t exactly know how to do it. I always end up fumbling around with the leaf switch tool until it feels okay.

First off, do it with the power off... especially if you’re using any kind of metal tool.

There are leaf switch adjusters (like this one: https://www.pinballlife.com/index.php?p=product&id=1518&parent=0) that make it easy to tweak.

Otherwise, you can use a small flat head screw driver and a thin awl (or any other nimble tools you have that you can bend and flex the switch to get the gap right).

It a process of tweak and test, tweak and test.

The pop-bumper switch on TNA is a little tricky to gain good access to, so I just removed the switch, adjusted, and then re-attached it.

#2826 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I know this is a terrible rookie question, but I cannot find a good guide for this…what is the best way to adjust leaf switches. I see that a lot of people like to adjust them out of the box for ultra sensitivity. I would like to do that as well, but I don’t exactly know how to do it. I always end up fumbling around with the leaf switch tool until it feels okay.

it sounds like you have a leaf switch adjuster tool already like the one linked above?

If you do, insert the slot of the adjuster (whichever side is easiest) onto one of the blades of the switch. Then bend the blade with the tool. Sometimes I moved up and down the full length of the blade to keep the switch from getting kinks in it. If it is a stand up switch (like the RAD targets), then I like to tap the target and listen for the contacts touching, or if possible, visually see that the size of the gap is where I want it. For slings, you have to adjust the blade on the inside (away from the rubber), then re-install the rubber and tap it with your finger to ensure that there is the right amount of gap. Sometimes you over-adjust and make it so the switch is always closed (which is what you want to avoid). I try to shoot for 1/8" gap. If you do it too close, the switch might register just from vibrations from the game. You don't want that. For pops, I like them ultra-sensitive.

Hope that helps.

#2827 1 year ago

A good thing to do to make your pop bumper more sensitive is to raise the ring so the ball has the ability to move the skirt more easily.

This is done by adding a washer to each rod.

rough drawing help explain

pop bumper (resized).PNG
#2828 1 year ago

Just got TNA #153 delivered yesterday. I just had a couple of questions for other current owners.

Did everybody else's side rails come this way? See pics below. Some the protective plastic and most of the adhesive goo wasn't removed around the outline of the letters. It looks like this on every letter and the Spooky logo, on both left & right sides. It's not a huge problem or anything...it seems like it'll all come off with a soft rag, adhesive remover, a little elbow grease, and A LOT of patience. Just wondering if they ALL leave the factory looking like this.

My other question is about vibrations. I LOVE the audio in this game. The bass is amazing! But i've noticed, even at Volume Level 2 (!), the bass creates A LOT of rattling & buzzing throughout the cabinet. Some of it seems to be coming from the glass, but I also hear it coming from lower down, like somewhere in the cabinet itself. Is there an EQ slider/setting, or some other way to lower the bass a little bit? Or is there another way to prevent this annoying rattle? Has anyone else experienced this? Or is it just normal?

I absolutely LOVE my TNA. Instant favorite! No other real issues out of the box. Had to plug the monitor power cable back in. And I forgot to insert the backbox bolt & washer at first. Wouldn't seem to boot up until I installed that bolt. Something about completing the ground connection? They should highlight that part in the installation notes, because at first, I thought the external backbox latch was good enough. Game wouldn't boot. I was freaking out.

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#2829 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Just wondering if they ALL leave the factory looking like this.

My rails looked great, but my hinges looked like yours. I haven't been bothered to clean them up yet.

#2830 1 year ago

Yeah, that doesn't look good, and I would be mildly disappointed with that coming out of the box. Thankfully, it can be cleaned and it isn't the rail itself (which was my first impression).

#2831 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Just got TNA #153 delivered yesterday. I just had a couple of questions for other current owners.
Did everybody else's side rails come this way? See pics below. Some the protective plastic and most of the adhesive goo wasn't removed around the outline of the letters. It looks like this on every letter and the Spooky logo, on both left & right sides. It's not a huge problem or anything...it seems like it'll all come off with a soft rag, adhesive remover, a little elbow grease, and A LOT of patience. Just wondering if they ALL leave the factory looking like this.
My other question is about vibrations. I LOVE the audio in this game. The bass is amazing! But i've noticed, even at Volume Level 2 (!), the bass creates A LOT of rattling & buzzing throughout the cabinet. Some of it seems to be coming from the glass, but I also hear it coming from lower down, like somewhere in the cabinet itself. Is there an EQ slider/setting, or some other way to lower the bass a little bit? Or is there another way to prevent this annoying rattle? Has anyone else experienced this? Or is it just normal?
I absolutely LOVE my TNA. Instant favorite! No other real issues out of the box. Had to plug the monitor power cable back in. And I forgot to insert the backbox bolt & washer at first. Wouldn't seem to boot up until I installed that bolt. Something about completing the ground connection? They should highlight that part in the installation notes, because at first, I thought the external backbox latch was good enough. Game wouldn't boot. I was freaking out.

Mine arrived looking significantly different... and I have zero rattles. I’ve cranked the volume pretty high and it’s rock solid.

Weird that there’s so much variation... especially with something like the residual plastic on the rails. That seems like an obvious issue that they should have corrected at the factory.

#2832 1 year ago

My rails looked like yours. That was the only complaint I had. Really gave a "cheap" look. But i just ordered the lit rails, so figure I'll clean the rest up when i have them off. Spooky should clean off the adhesive residue before putting them on to give a more professional look. But, doesn't effect the game, so still not a huge deal.

10
#2833 1 year ago

Should be easy to identify the suspect

6C91D177-018E-4467-906A-CA091A6906B4 (resized).jpeg
#2834 1 year ago

That looks like the laser was cutting on the wrong side of the material. My hinges look the same, but with the ghost it looks intentional to me, so I don't really care.

For all those "suffering" from the bad LCD quality, be sure to adjust the screen properly before buying new stuff and see if you can live with that:

I set it to:
Contrast 90
Brightness 35
Gamma on

instead of the factory default 50, 50, on. That helped quite a bit. And the washed out blacks are reduced significantly. The little grey that remains complement the 80ies graphics style. YMMV - by a lot

#2835 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Did everybody else's side rails come this way?

Yes, my side rails and hinges looked just like that. Took some work to get them clean. Not sure what the problem is.

#2836 1 year ago
Quoted from mayuh:

That looks like the laser was cutting on the wrong side of the material. My hinges look the same, but with the ghost it looks intentional to me, so I don't really care.
For all those "suffering" from the bad LCD quality, be sure to adjust the screen properly before buying new stuff and see if you can live with that:
I set it to:
Contrast 90
Brightness 35
Gamma on
instead of the factory default 50, 50, on. That helped quite a bit. And the washed out blacks are reduced significantly. The little grey that remains complement the 80ies graphics style. YMMV - by a lot

I hate when I procrastinate on things but sometimes it pays off. THANK YOU!

#2837 1 year ago

Just want to say...this game is AWESOME!

#2838 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

My other question is about vibrations. I LOVE the audio in this game. The bass is amazing! But i've noticed, even at Volume Level 2 (!), the bass creates A LOT of rattling & buzzing throughout the cabinet. Some of it seems to be coming from the glass, but I also hear it coming from lower down, like somewhere in the cabinet itself. Is there an EQ slider/setting, or some other way to lower the bass a little bit? Or is there another way to prevent this annoying rattle? Has anyone else experienced this? Or is it just normal?

My TNA had the bass level set way too high out of the box too. Realistically it would need to be adjusted based on the room conditions as well (in a corner, concrete floor vs carpet, etc.). It's a process to fully balance all the settings but a simple fix is to careful turn down (counter-clockwise) the leftmost knob on the amplifier. The amp is mounted sideways to the bottom of the cab between the sub chamber and the coin box, right side.

The knob in question is the closest one to the coin door. Turn that down and adjust to your liking. Try not to mess with the other knobs if you can. Should solve your blown out bass issue.

#2839 1 year ago

Ours is pretty rattly/buzzy, too. I put a little felt on the top corner of the glass. I intend to cafefully go over the amplifier adjustments posted previously. I think alot of the buzzing is coming from the mesh in front of the woofer. I think they might be hitting each other.

12
#2840 1 year ago

Side rails issue__ that is now on the check list.We rry to catch them but sometimes we miss some.To be honest it varies from batch to batch. If you got one that is a little gummy just use rubbing alcohol over it.

In the truck on the way to Atlanta 10hours in 4 more to go.

#2841 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

I got my LCD parts from Amazon. Basically the same price (a few bucks cheaper, maybe?), and guaranteed 2-day Delivery.
If somebody can double-check that these are the correct items, I would be grateful. I'd hate to post incorrect info!
amazon.com link »
amazon.com link »

Has anyone confirmed that both of these will work?

#2842 1 year ago
Quoted from SpookyKT:

Side rails issue__ that is now on the check list.We rry to catch them but sometimes we miss some.To be honest it varies from batch to batch. If you got one that is a little gummy just use rubbing alcohol over it.
In the truck on the way to Atlanta 10hours in 4 more to go.

Thanks for seeing that and taking note. Cant wait much more. My order is in the 300s

10
#2843 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Did everybody else's side rails come this way? See pics below. Some the protective plastic and most of the adhesive goo wasn't removed around the outline of the letters. It looks like this on every letter and the Spooky logo, on both left & right sides. It's not a huge problem or anything...it seems like it'll all come off with a soft rag, adhesive remover, a little elbow grease, and A LOT of patience. Just wondering if they ALL leave the factory looking like this.

Yes!

I received my TNA yesterday, and I thought it was very unfortunate that my initial impressions when it came to things such as quality and attention to detail were not good because of the left over protective tape/plastic and goo.

It was a real anticlimactic experience to be so excited about finally getting my TNA, only to be cock blocked by having to spend a fairly significant amount of time cleaning up the side rails before playing the pin (it would make no sense to set the pin up where it's going to go first because it would have to be removed in order to reach the side rails).

I completely agree, it took A LOT of patience, and it was wearing thin. While I'm still not happy about it, and I do think that Spooky would be well advised to send these out all cleaned up (first impressions count), after playing my TNA last night and this afternoon, I think that this is something that I will completely forget about soon!

Everything worked pretty much perfectly out of the box, and even my switches seem to be pretty sensitive. No issues at all. The beacon is annoyingly loud though (I turned it on for attract mode, but very quickly realized what a big mistake that was and turned it off again), and the computer fan is also louder than any other pin that I have owned (was hoping it wouldn't be too loud based on some comments that I read here). Not really an issue during game play when the sweet ass music is playing though. The sound system is amazing. The best that I have ever heard on any stock pin!

Game play is completely addicting!

#2844 1 year ago
Quoted from RobT:

More
Yes!
I received my TNA yesterday, and I thought it was very unfortunate that my initial impressions when it came to things such as quality and attention to detail were not good because of the left over protective tape/plastic and goo.
It was a real anticlimactic experience to be so excited about finally getting my TNA, only to be cock blocked by having to spend a fairly significant amount of time cleaning up the side rails before playing the pin (it would make no sense to set the pin up where it's going to go first because it would have to be removed in order to reach the side rails).
I completely agree, it took A LOT of patience, and it was wearing thin. While I'm still not happy about it, and I do think that Spooky would be well advised to send these out all cleaned up (first impressions count), after playing my TNA last night and this afternoon, I think that this is something that I will completely forget about soon!
Everything worked pretty much perfectly out of the box, and even my switches seem to be pretty sensitive. No issues at all. The beacon is annoyingly loud though (I turned it on for attract mode, but very quickly realized what a big mistake that was and turned it off again), and the computer fan is also louder than any other pin that I have owned (was hoping it wouldn't be too loud based on some comments that I read here). Not really an issue during game play when the sweet ass music is playing though. The sound system is amazing. The best that I have ever heard on any stock pin!
Game play is completely addicting!

Rob - your criticsms and accolades are all legit

#2845 1 year ago

Quick question what is the best type of bill validator to use on TNA that will fit properly and have enough clearance from the playfield inside the coin door? Nothing I have fits yet, any reliable suggestions.

#2846 1 year ago

Oh yeah.....you guys complaining about the fan being loud........you obviously have never been around WOZ in a home environment. Now THAT is a loud fan. TNA? Not so much!

#2847 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Oh yeah.....you guys complaining about the fan being loud........you obviously have never been around WOZ in a home environment. Now THAT is a loud fan. TNA? Not so much!

I've owned a WoZ for sometime so interested to see how it compares.

#2848 1 year ago

I too have done the fan swap out to the Stealth model mentioned in previous posts.
It does cut the noise down quite a lot.
Not really noticeable now.

#2849 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Oh yeah.....you guys complaining about the fan being loud........you obviously have never been around WOZ in a home environment. Now THAT is a loud fan. TNA? Not so much!

I’ve owned a WOZ for almost 4 years... its fan is about 1/2 as loud

#2850 1 year ago
Quoted from moonduckie78:

Oh yeah.....you guys complaining about the fan being loud........you obviously have never been around WOZ in a home environment. Now THAT is a loud fan. TNA? Not so much!

I owned TH for quite awhile. The fan on TNA is louder.

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