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(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

3 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 7,245 posts
  • 522 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 17 hours ago by mackey256
  • Topic is favorited by 213 Pinsiders

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There are 7245 posts in this topic. You are on page 145 of 145.
#7201 15 days ago
Quoted from herg:

I don't think horrible players ever get to reactor 6.

I have not yet been to reactor 6, but I have been to 5. I am also not a good player.
--Scott

#7202 11 days ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

To Those of you with this pin at home, do you have the replay/extra ball turned off so it’s just the extra Balls at reactor 3 and 6?

Yes - I have it just at 3 and 6 reactors, no replay/EB score related.

Also just thought I'd say Hi from over the pond.

I bought TNA from another UK pinball owner in March of this year - my first pin, and it's been brilliant.
I also do not get tired of it, and play most days - the audit says I've played just over 2000 games since getting it.

This thread is also really useful, and it's great that Scott both responds to posts and continues to improve/develop the game.

As a first time pinball owner (used to play at college 30 years ago), I've enjoyed both playing and the maintenance - cleaning, replaced all the rubbers with Titan glow, added an led strip to the rear of the backbox and under the cabinet so it glows purple, and had a couple of wires come adrift from the flippers, so have brushed up on my soldering too.

Currently considering the illuminated drop targets mod, and trying to decide on the best strategy for potentially getting a really high score.

I have only one comment really regarding what is displayed on the screen, and that is that I find I do not have a lot of time to look at the screen during gameplay as there's too much going on, so if it's not already maxed, I find it hard to keep an eye on the reactor value. About the only time when there is a chance to get a glance at the screen is when you lock a ball. There's then a second or so to glance up at it before launching the next ball (beating the auto plunger). Unfortunately, at that moment, the screen no longer displays the reactor value, as it is going through the "ball locked" display sequence. It would be good if the reactor value was still visible at this point. Just a suggestion!

Anyway, cheers for such a great game, and mine is going nowhere - especially as I have since bought a second pin (BK3LE) in the house, and have permission from my wife to add 2 or 3 more to a cabin we are putting together in the garden!

#7203 11 days ago

Nice c_n_c ! It was also my first pin and it keeps me coming back for more and more. JUST ONE MORE REACTOR! It’s like you’re always just one shot away and nearly every drain is your fault. It’s a high speed ass kicker but an incredibly fair pin with The outlane/center drain saves. Killer job Scott and Spooky. I’d also love to have a BK3, another brutally fun game that fights back! Good taste in games mate. Cheers

#7204 10 days ago

Little bit of a competition going on using the Scorbit app for TNA. Better get in while the scores are low!

https://sv.scorbit.io/viewer/leaderboards/48

Get the Scorbit app on your phone, go find a TNA and play. No cheating and no Bowen Kerins. <3

--Scott

#7205 8 days ago

thenotrashcougar I’ve got a bug report for you. Start a reactor so the orbits are lit. Drain to end the ball. Press and hold the start button to end the game. Start a new game. The orbits are still lit but should not be. v1.4.0.

#7206 8 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

What is your Flipper Hold Boost Level and what strength are your flipper coils set to?

Everything should be set to default. Sorry I went on a social distancing vacation and haven’t been able to check. I’ll get you the numbers tomorrow.

#7207 8 days ago
Quoted from tommyv-tmv:

thenotrashcougar I’ve got a bug report for you. Start a reactor so the orbits are lit. Drain to end the ball. Press and hold the start button to end the game. Start a new game. The orbits are still lit but should not be. v1.4.0.

Damn, I hate that reset option... Thanks for the report. I will get this fixed in a coming update.
--Scott

#7208 8 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Damn, I hate that reset option... Thanks for the report. I will get this fixed in a coming update.
--Scott

Just make the game reboot when people restart games after ball one- yes, people will have to wait.... but that is their punishment for forfeiting.

#7209 8 days ago
Quoted from ryan1234:

Just make the game reboot when people restart games after ball one- yes, people will have to wait.... but that is their punishment for forfeiting.

Jack would surely see the funny side of it!

#7210 6 days ago

Got a trade offer of one of these plus cash for my MMr I am seriously considering. Do you know if Spooky is planning on making any more of these or is the manufacturing on these limited like they were on Rick and Morty?

Thanks!

#7211 6 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Got a trade offer of one of these plus cash for my MMr I am seriously considering. Do you know if Spooky is planning on making any more of these or is the manufacturing on these limited like they were on Rick and Morty?
Thanks!

TNA is not limited. Iirc they made 550 and stopped because they don’t have enough interest (order) for more but said they could make more if interest was higher like if they had 50 or more on a wait list.

I’m not sure what’s going to happen might give KT a call at Spooky to see if that’s still the plan.

Anyway long story short there is not any number cap on TNA but only will make more if demand and they have time. Currently are booked up making R&M for the next year plus.

#7212 6 days ago

Even if they are considering another run at some point I wouldn't count on it for quite awhile. They are about a 1/3 of the way through the R&M builds and already teasing a collab with Chicago Gaming for Ben Heck's design so I think their hands will be full for at least the next 2-3 years. I think if you have the opportunity to grab a TNA you should jump on it and not hold out in the hopes of them making more years from now.

#7214 6 days ago

I also have one for sale.

#7215 5 days ago
Quoted from Strohz:

I went to update the code one time and I noticed I had multiple cracks like that running throughout the backglass and a couple of areas had completely broken loose! I always assumed it was a silkscreened backglass, but appears to be some sort of vinyl layer as it isn't ink flaking? I reached out to their customer service about it and they weren't sure why it happened to some, but we exchanged photos and they took care of it to my satisfaction. Like many others have commented, Kudos to Spooky tech support for sure! Definitely reach out to them about it if you haven't yet.
[quoted image]

I reached out to them and it cost me $100 to get a new backglass. I'm thinking I'll clear coat both of them and use the old one for wall art.

#7216 4 days ago

One of my speaker lighting strips was having a sporadic issue so I assumed it was most likely a cold solder to 1 of the pads on the PCB of the LED strip. I disassembled to trouble shoot and noticed a fair amount of yellowing in the LED strip's waterproof coating, along with some browning on the PCB, and the strip was fairly loose since it was detaching from the glue in places. I've had my TNA on route for 2 years straight so it's spent a good portion of it's life powered on so I figured the best coarse of action would be to replace the RGB strip with a new one that doesn't have the waterproof coating in hopes it doesn't get as hot when it's on for many hours a day.

Here's the issue: I soldered the color coded wires to corresponding pads on the new RGB strip but it lights up yellow instead of the game's default purple/pink. Anyone else out there that's knowledgeable about why this might be? Maybe thenotrashcougar can shed some "light" on this?

Also, I replaced the speakers with these since I thought the cone color would provide a better background for the speaker lighting: amazon.com link »

20201015_081838 (resized).jpg

#7217 4 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

What is your Flipper Hold Boost Level and what strength are your flipper coils set to?

Where would I find "Flipper Hold Boost Level"?

Here are the coil settings ->

IMG_1511 (resized).JPEG
#7218 4 days ago

Just had a game where I activated multiball with a light hit against the bottom drop target and the middle drop target stayed up so only one ball was released. Then a short time later during multiball the second ball was released. Is that a feature or are my drop targets getting weird again?

#7219 3 days ago
Quoted from procks:

Just had a game where I activated multiball with a light hit against the bottom drop target and the middle drop target stayed up so only one ball was released. Then a short time later during multiball the second ball was released. Is that a feature or are my drop targets getting weird again?

Well if drop targets got weird once, I'm betting they are weird or weirder again.

#7220 3 days ago

Just joined the club (Hooorraaaaay) Very Excited to get this on location and welcome my little college town to the future!! Only playfield additions I did are a dimmed purple trough light and 2 color changers in both the scoops, frosted light-up drop targets might be next but that's it, this things amazingly awesome!!!

#7221 3 days ago

For anybody who was swapped playfields; is there a suggested way to disconnect the harness in order pull the PF out of the cabinet? I thought it was going to be straight forward disconnecting from the boards in the head, but some of the connectors split wires down two different branches through the pass through holes. I guess it's expected to pull some wires out of those IDC connectors? Seems weird to me, so figured I might be missing something.

#7222 3 days ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Where would I find "Flipper Hold Boost Level"?
Here are the coil settings ->
[quoted image]

Sorry for the delay, it is located under the Machine (Standard) settings section.

--Scott

#7223 2 days ago

Just joined the club! I will let you know how it plays when I get a chance to play it. Still undergoing official "testing".

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#7224 2 days ago

Seems to play right... but how do you find out what the credit dot is for in this?

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#7225 2 days ago
Quoted from RobF:

For anybody who was swapped playfields; is there a suggested way to disconnect the harness in order pull the PF out of the cabinet? I thought it was going to be straight forward disconnecting from the boards in the head, but some of the connectors split wires down two different branches through the pass through holes. I guess it's expected to pull some wires out of those IDC connectors? Seems weird to me, so figured I might be missing something.

Answering my own question and documenting for posterity... There are two main branches of the harness that go up the head. Instead of disconnecting in the head (and splitting the connectors that have wires that go down both branches), I ended up disconnecting everything on the PF that go to the head. Looking at the game with the PF up, there is one grouping that comes down the left side, the other on the right. The group on the right (outlined in yellow in the picture) includes two gray serial cables and power wires that have chained connectors for all of the PF boards. It was easy to just unplug and pull out all of that out (after some ziptie destruction). The grouping exiting the bottom left of the PF is wiring only for the coils. I removed each and every coil and unzip-tied from the wire towers (outlined in red in the picture). After all of that, the PF pulled right out. Whew!

DSC07509_LI (resized).jpg
#7226 2 days ago
Quoted from RobF:

Answering my own question and documenting for posterity... There are two main branches of the harness that go up the head. Instead of disconnecting in the head (and splitting the connectors that have wires that go down both branches), I ended up disconnecting everything on the PF that go to the head. Looking at the game with the PF up, there is one grouping that comes down the left side, the other on the right. The group on the right (outlined in yellow in the picture) includes two gray serial cables and power wires that have chained connectors for all of the PF boards. It was easy to just unplug and pull out all of that out (after some ziptie destruction). The grouping exiting the bottom left of the PF is wiring only for the coils. I removed each and every coil and unzip-tied from the wire towers (outlined in red in the picture). After all of that, the PF pulled right out. Whew![quoted image]

Why are you doing a playfield swap? Mine has some post pooling and I’ve considered buying another playfield but I am intimidated about doing the swap.

#7227 2 days ago
Quoted from sataneatscheese:

Seems to play right... but how do you find out what the credit dot is for in this?
[quoted image]

That could be from something as simple as the jam opto got triggered above a certain threshold. You can view the errors by going to the Error Report in the service menu. You can also clear the error report by going to "Home -> Utilities -> Clear Error Report" and see if it pops up again. Post a picture of your error report before you clear it. Most of the time this is just to give an operator a heads up of something acting flaky.

--Scott

10
#7228 1 day ago

I just released a new beta with some cool stuff in it. Any of you want to give this a run for me before I package it up?

#################################################################
v1.4.2.b3 BETA - 10/18/2020 - Scott Danesi

## Bugs Fixed ##
- Fixed reset issue on ball 2 with orbit status not resetting

## Features Added / Modifications ##
- Scorbit functionality added
- Added service menu option to show scores on LCD
Machine (Standard) -> Scores On LCD
- Added ability to turn off backbox LED during gameplay
Machine (Standard) -> Backbox LED On During Game
- Added Super Spinner progress on main screen
- Added ability for game to autolaunch balls if left unattended.
Machine (Standard) -> Unattended Launch Time
['Off','30sec','1min','3min','5min','10min'] - Default is Off

## Download Link ##
https://drive.google.com/file/d/15I9zFU1NyWi1owkQ7R4k7wyQadThJbAv/view?usp=sharing

#################################################################

#7229 1 day ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

That could be from something as simple as the jam opto got triggered above a certain threshold. You can view the errors by going to the Error Report in the service menu. You can also clear the error report by going to "Home -> Utilities -> Clear Error Report" and see if it pops up again. Post a picture of your error report before you clear it. Most of the time this is just to give an operator a heads up of something acting flaky.
--Scott

Thanks Scott. Loving your pin. Here is the error report. It is new to me and so far as I can tell the drop targets are working. Where do I go to get the latest software? I am on 1.3.

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#7230 1 day ago

Hey there!
OK, looks like your drop switch 2 might be starting to flake out. These are standard DB5 microswitches. You can get replacements here:
https://www.pinballlife.com/1225-switch-assembly-for-1-bank-drop-targets.html

The game has built in fault tolerance, so you probably will not notice anything too bad in the gameplay. I would suggest going into Utilities and running the drop target test. This will go through and see if there are any issues with your drops. If it all checks out, just keep playing.

All the latest code and stuff can be found here: www.tnapinball.com. That will lead directly to all the TNA stuff on my website.

--Scott

#7231 1 day ago

TNA headbands and wristbands would be cool.

#7232 1 day ago
Quoted from trilogybeer:

TNA headbands and wristbands would be cool.

I’m pretty sure I’d buy all the TNA merch.

#7233 1 day ago

Ok, time for new rubbers and cleaning. What’s everyone using to clean their spooky playfields? Is waxing the playfield for home use necessary ? What about cleaning the optos?

#7234 1 day ago

Does anyone have a TNA/Co-op flyer with the two mode descriptions and hold-start button instructions etc..? I was going to make one for my location where we just got a TNA to put on the wall next to it, but thought I’d check here first to see if anyone’s made one already. THX

#7235 1 day ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Why are you doing a playfield swap? Mine has some post pooling and I’ve considered buying another playfield but I am intimidated about doing the swap.

A couple days after buying the game from the original owner I noticed some post pooling. Spooky said they would send some washers. Unfortunately something like 5 plays later, I lost a sliver of art. I 3d printed my own washers from TPU material which is very similar to rubber and have played it that way for the past year. Spooky agreed to sell me a new PF at cost so that has been stored away until now. I recently decided to trade the game out and offered the new owner the PF swap as part of the deal.

It isn't for the faint of heart. The topside is super easy as you would expect. The bottom side is challenging with all of the LED light boards. Also the new PF did not come with the holes drilled out for the 10 or so T-nuts, so there is some drilling into the new shiny surface. You need to prepare your sphincter in advance.

#7236 1 day ago
Quoted from RobF:

A couple days after buying the game from the original owner I noticed some post pooling. Spooky said they would send some washers. Unfortunately something like 5 plays later, I lost a sliver of art. I 3d printed my own washers from TPU material which is very similar to rubber and have played it that way for the past year. Spooky agreed to sell me a new PF at cost so that has been stored away until now. I recently decided to trade the game out and offered the new owner the PF swap as part of the deal.
It isn't for the faint of heart. The topside is super easy as you would expect. The bottom side is challenging with all of the LED light boards. Also the new PF did not come with the holes drilled out for the 10 or so T-nuts, so there is some drilling into the new shiny surface. You need to prepare your sphincter in advance.

This is just me, but wouldn’t it make more sense to just continue using the current playfield until it’s unplayable, knowing you have a minty one on hand? Just seems kinda wasteful to rip out a playfield because of a tiny little Art chip, but again to each’s own.

#7237 1 day ago
Quoted from ArcadeBar:

Just joined the club (Hooorraaaaay) Very Excited to get this on location and welcome my little college town to the future!! Only playfield additions I did are a dimmed purple trough light and 2 color changers in both the scoops, frosted light-up drop targets might be next but that's it, this things amazingly awesome!!!

Cool! Btw, I noticed that the GI light near the right destroy target was green?

#7238 1 day ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

Cool! Btw, I noticed that the GI light near the right destroy target was green?

Thanks I didn’t realize that! When I got it in I noticed the right sling had a red gi and I just ordered a replacement from pbl, good thing I went ahead and ordered a few just in case there were any other issues!

#7239 23 hours ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

This is just me, but wouldn’t it make more sense to just continue using the current playfield until it’s unplayable, knowing you have a minty one on hand? Just seems kinda wasteful to rip out a playfield because of a tiny little Art chip, but again to each’s own.

That’s what I’d do.

#7240 22 hours ago
Quoted from Joey_Bada_Bing:

This is just me, but wouldn’t it make more sense to just continue using the current playfield until it’s unplayable, knowing you have a minty one on hand? Just seems kinda wasteful to rip out a playfield because of a tiny little Art chip, but again to each’s own.

Indeed. That was my plan and I have sat on the new PF for several months. Since I am selling, I gave the swap option to the new buyer. He jumped at the chance at my offer to do the swap. PF swaps are above most people's comfort level.

Not mentioned was that the washers didn't stop the chipping and the damage had expanded. I lost a decent amount of art around three different posts and was starting to get some chipping at the main scoop. After stripping the PF, I can also see that the orbit rail has been scraping the PF as well. The through mounting bolts did not have topside washers on all of them.

#7241 21 hours ago

Ok I'm no designer by any means, just downloaded a free program and hacked this together.
For those of you who have this on location please let me know if there's some verbiage tweaks that could be better or if any other info could be added/removed to help casual players understand how to jump into the Co-op fun!... THX

TNA CoOp Poster.pdf (resized).png
#7242 20 hours ago

Fwiw, a pinsider and pf restoration expert Ron Kruzman sells a "playfield prep" kit with various drill bits and other useful tools for making pf swaps easier/less risky. I don't think there's any site to order them from, as far as i know you just have to contact him directly for the kit. I've been following a couple pf swap threads and folks there were talking about it, said it works well. I have a couple pf swaps coming up and I'm planning on ordering a kit in preparation for them.

Good luck, TNA def looks a bit more involved than a lot of pfs out there.

#7243 19 hours ago

Thanks. I'll share my learnings for TNA specific swaps as I go. For tools, I have only had to buy a smaller drift punch set to knock out the rails. Oh and a side note on those, I am not sure it is possible to pop those out without chipping some art off. I am so far 3 for 3 causing small damage to the old PF. One must be extra careful inserting into the new PF as the legs are bent slightly wider than holes. They try their best to scrape and scratch their way back in.

For the two other PF tear downs I have done, I have relied on pictures and obvious observable layout/connector mating for reassembly. I figured out pretty quickly that the same approach would prove problematic TNA mostly due to the eleventy billion (give or take) individual LED boards. The trouble from an assembly perspective is that they all use the exact same connector and I think only four repeating wire color groups. This basically means, there are a ton of exact duplicate plugs and it would be really easy to get them mixed up. I am not sure how the assembly workers keep these connections straight, but hats off to them!

At first I thought I would use masking tape or the label maker to mark things up, but ended up with a much better solution. I am sure I am not the first to use these, but for me it was a stroke of genius; small colored numbered stickers. I basically put numbers on the PF and matching LED board connectors before disconnecting them, and then when I had the old PF next to the new one, I added the matching numbers to the new PF location. The pack I bought had multiple sheets so there were plenty of duplicate numbers. This might have added an extra hour or so to disassembly, but I can tell you reassembly was way faster than having to continually reference back and forth with pictures and then only to find out, that one connector you care about was hidden or out of focus. I also used different colored stickers for the coils/mechs/targets/switches. Super handy. An unexpected side bonus was that my wife saw this and said "oh that looks like fun" and joined in the stickerin'. This. Never. Happens. Best $9 spent in a long time! amazon.com link »

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#7244 17 hours ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

- Added Super Spinner progress on main screen

Love this one! I am a Super Spinner addict.

#7245 17 hours ago
Quoted from THEFOZ:

You can use the 4th LED associated with the lit drop target mod. Off by default. It will light blue when reactor is ready, green when activated, and red when critical. Turns off after blowing reactor.

I just wired this up using the 4th unused LED wire from the drop target mod. Blue when ready, green when activated and red when ready to blow. All it took was one zip tie and I was done. It would be cool if the first color was yellow but otherwise I like it. thenotrashcougar might have a better place to tie into this light but the 4th unused drop target wire was a super easy and a quick addition if you wanted to test it out.

2020-10-19 16.09.00 (resized).jpg2020-10-19 16.09.17 (resized).jpg2020-10-19 16.09.26 (resized).jpg2020-10-19 16.15.13 (resized).jpg
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