(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

3 years ago


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  • 7,837 posts
  • 564 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 15 hours ago by Jimmyhonda
  • Topic is favorited by 224 Pinsiders

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26 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 7837 posts in this topic. You are on page 157 of 157.
#7801 48 days ago

Just wanted to chime in to say I love the back story to how TNA came about, I love that Scott is active in this thread, and I hope to acquire one shortly after having a play recently.

Also, why doesn't any other manufacturer seem to take audio quality as seriously as Spooky? The sound system blew me away! I'm a bit of an audiophile and usually swap out speakers and connect my 18" sub to my pins, but this performs so well out of the box I was astounded. Well done Scott & Spooky!

#7802 48 days ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

Just wanted to chime in to say I love the back story to how TNA came about, I love that Scott is active in this thread, and I hope to acquire one shortly after having a play recently.
Also, why doesn't any other manufacturer seem to take audio quality as seriously as Spooky? The sound system blew me away! I'm a bit of an audiophile and usually swap out speakers and connect my 18" sub to my pins, but this performs so well out of the box I was astounded. Well done Scott & Spooky!

Its secretly just a jukebox. TheNoTrashCougar tacked on a pinball game after the fact to increase the market size. Doesn't even have ramps <3

#7803 47 days ago
Quoted from McSquid:

Its secretly just a jukebox. TheNoTrashCougar tacked on a pinball game after the fact to increase the market size. Doesn't even have ramps <3

<runs and hides>

#7804 47 days ago

I’m going to assume that most of you upgraded to the green plastic protectors… or if you didn’t, you had the factory clear protectors from the start. But on the off chance that anyone needs a clear set of plastic protectors, I’m clearing out my closet and will give them for free if you pay shipping.

#7805 45 days ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

I’m going to assume that most of you upgraded to the green plastic protectors… or if you didn’t, you had the factory clear protectors from the start. But on the off chance that anyone needs a clear set of plastic protectors, I’m clearing out my closet and will give them for free if you pay shipping.

PM coming your way

#7806 41 days ago

Joined the TNA club today with a beautiful butter cab example. This really is the future. I want all my games to have cabinets like this. TNA kicks my ass and I love that

#7807 36 days ago

Anyone looking to put their TNA on the market? I'm very interested, please send a pm.

#7808 36 days ago

Apologies if this question has been answered before or if it's dumb, but I've looked it up and can't figure it out. My TNA keeps crashing. It will sometimes seemingly randomly crash and say Input HDMI in the top right corner of the screen. Sometimes it will even say No Signal. At one point every time I pressed Start it would immediately crash and have to load before entering attract mode. Any time I pressed start it would crash again. The game stays on the entire time but the screen reboots. I turn the machine off and back on and it happens again. Sometimes after I turn it off and back on it plays fine for a few games but then will randomly crash again and the issues start all over again. The last time it happened it was right at the start of the 12th ball in multiplayer coop. Thanks in advance for any help. I have friends over and it's just a huge bummer. I just bought the machine this week so I'm a noobie with this one.

#7809 36 days ago
Quoted from ShowVideoGames:

Apologies if this question has been answered before or if it's dumb, but I've looked it up and can't figure it out. My TNA keeps crashing. It will sometimes seemingly randomly crash and say Input HDMI in the top right corner of the screen. Sometimes it will even say No Signal. At one point every time I pressed Start it would immediately crash and have to load before entering attract mode. Any time I pressed start it would crash again. The game stays on the entire time but the screen reboots. I turn the machine off and back on and it happens again. Sometimes after I turn it off and back on it plays fine for a few games but then will randomly crash again and the issues start all over again. The last time it happened it was right at the start of the 12th ball in multiplayer coop. Thanks in advance for any help. I have friends over and it's just a huge bummer. I just bought the machine this week so I'm a noobie with this one.

If it's just the screen restarting check the HDMI cable from the computer to the screen. (might be some conversion in there somewhere?) I don't own one but have played it and it sounds like your screen is just loosing signal. If it plays fine and the score displays work then its just a screen connection.

#7810 34 days ago
Quoted from cabuford:

If it's just the screen restarting check the HDMI cable from the computer to the screen. (might be some conversion in there somewhere?) I don't own one but have played it and it sounds like your screen is just loosing signal. If it plays fine and the score displays work then its just a screen connection.

Yep, it sounds like a loose cable.

#7811 32 days ago

I finally pulled the trigger on the Pinball Life RGB LED updated Shoot Again Timer. Didn't include any instructions. Doesn't seem to fit in the game as-is. Looks like it will need new mounting holes in the playfield and the harness organizer post to be relocated for it to even fit the game? Saw someone made a different 3D printed bracket for it. I thought this would be drop in. What's everyone doing to install this straight?

#7812 31 days ago
Quoted from audihere:

I finally pulled the trigger on the Pinball Life RGB LED updated Shoot Again Timer. Didn't include any instructions. Doesn't seem to fit in the game as-is. Looks like it will need new mounting holes in the playfield and the harness organizer post to be relocated for it to even fit the game? Saw someone made a different 3D printed bracket for it. I thought this would be drop in. What's everyone doing to install this straight?

Here are the installation notes from the PBL website since the product is now NLA. It is pretty straight forward. There is nothing wrong with the included spacer, but some have 3d printed a different variant. You basically install it in the same place but have to make 2 new holes with 2 of the screws. No need to pre drill, just make sure the display is centered in the insert.

Installation Notes:
- This will only work as a replacement for the Shoot Again display between the flippers on TNA (1 per game).
- Make sure to peel the brown protective paper from the spacer before installation (if still applied).
- You may need to slightly move a wire ladder tree to fit the display under the playfield.
- You will reuse 2 of the screws from the original display to install the upgraded one.
- You must install Software version 1.4.0 or greater for the display to function properly.

#7813 31 days ago

I ordered the ball save digital counter upgrade , someone mentioned there’s a mounting bracket I might need for easier installation , can someone please point to the 3D printed part?

#7814 31 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Here are the installation notes from the PBL website since the product is now NLA. It is pretty straight forward. There is nothing wrong with the included spacer, but some have 3d printed a different variant. You basically install it in the same place but have to make 2 new holes with 2 of the screws. No need to pre drill, just make sure the display is centered in the insert.
Installation Notes:
- This will only work as a replacement for the Shoot Again display between the flippers on TNA (1 per game).
- Make sure to peel the brown protective paper from the spacer before installation (if still applied).
- You may need to slightly move a wire ladder tree to fit the display under the playfield.
- You will reuse 2 of the screws from the original display to install the upgraded one.
- You must install Software version 1.4.0 or greater for the display to function properly.

If anyone needs it, I redesigned the bracket for updated Shoot Again Timer mod so that it uses the included lasered plexi and only the original screws and NO need to make new holes in the playfield. Perfect fit on my game. STL file here. https://tinyurl.com/5xfcb566

#7816 30 days ago

If you're going the route of a 3D printed a mount for this, the one I posted doesn't need any extra hardware, or new holes in the pf, and you can't see it because the kit's black plexi piece is still used.

#7817 29 days ago
Quoted from audihere:

If you're going the route of a 3D printed a mount for this, the one I posted doesn't need any extra hardware, or new holes in the pf, and you can't see it because the kit's black plexi piece is still used.

Thank you for this

#7818 26 days ago
Quoted from BigLebowski:

BTW, the problem apparently was the interconnector board in the back of the cabinet. Only 4.7V arrived in the backbox while the power supply provided 5.3V.
A little wiggling on the respective header brought the voltage in the backbox back to 5.1V which is what´s required according to Spooky support.
Just in case anybody else runs into reset problems.
On another note: I haven´t read thorugh the whole thread, but are there any recommendations to reduce bounces from the left scoop. On my machine I get like 70% bounceouts when I hit that scoop. It´s kind of frustrating.....

Having a similar issue here. Can you help me figure out which header it is?

1 week later
#7819 19 days ago

Hey fellow TNA-ers!

Got a head-scratching issue with my TNA. Every so often, Opto 1 will trigger. It is highly intermittent. This has happened mid-game, causing locks to mess up and also during attract mode, where it will rifle through the lock drops. I have tried reflowing the connectors which fixed the issue for a couple days, but now it's back! I've also tried cleaning the optos.

Should I just order some new optos or is there some wiring troubles I should be looking at under the hood? (or something else I've missed).

Cheers,
Vic.

#7820 19 days ago

Get your phone out and with the glass off the game use the camera to check out the transmitters sides LED's. The camera will show the IR light.

Compare with the others should show you which ones are on, or not.

The transmitters should all be on when the game is running, at all times.

If you thump the playfield a bit to make some vibrations and any of these flicker, that will be your problem.

Look for a badly made or loose punchdown in a connector where the TX LED connects to the PC board screwed to the bottom of the playfield, or somewhere in that circuit. Also recievers can have a similar issue if there are partly made punchdowns in the IDC housings.

#7821 19 days ago
Quoted from psychosoda:

Hey fellow TNA-ers!
Got a head-scratching issue with my TNA. Every so often, Opto 1 will trigger. It is highly intermittent. This has happened mid-game, causing locks to mess up and also during attract mode, where it will rifle through the lock drops. I have tried reflowing the connectors which fixed the issue for a couple days, but now it's back! I've also tried cleaning the optos.
Should I just order some new optos or is there some wiring troubles I should be looking at under the hood? (or something else I've missed).
Cheers,
Vic.

Change the IDC connectors on the opto harness to crimped connectors and you will be good.
--Scott

#7822 19 days ago

I saw a post on FB where someone had pink plastic protectors on the lower and green on the upper.
Can’t find it now.
If that person is on here - pls post a pic
Thanks!

#7823 18 days ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

I saw a post on FB where someone had pink plastic protectors on the lower and green on the upper.
Can’t find it now.
If that person is on here - pls post a pic
Thanks!

This is not it but its how I have mine set up. I did change the slings from red/pink to green.

IMG_1149 (resized).JPG
#7824 18 days ago

Here is how ours is currently setup. Only have the pink on the slings.

IMG_7250 (resized).jpg
#7825 14 days ago

I have the same issue as psychosoda with Opto 1 triggering intermittently.

Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Change the IDC connectors on the opto harness to crimped connectors and you will be good.
--Scott

As TNA is my first pin, and I've not changed IDC connectors before, can anyone point me to any further information, such as which crimped connectors (size, manufacturer etc..) and which crimping tool (assuming I need one)? Also any relevant instructions/advice please?

I'm in the UK if it makes any difference.

Many thanks for any information.

#7826 14 days ago
Quoted from C_n_C:

I have the same issue as psychosoda with Opto 1 triggering intermittently.

As TNA is my first pin, and I've not changed IDC connectors before, can anyone point me to any further information, such as which crimped connectors (size, manufacturer etc..) and which crimping tool (assuming I need one)? Also any relevant instructions/advice please?
I'm in the UK if it makes any difference.
Many thanks for any information.

This post shows you exactly what you need!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome/page/134#post-5627687

#7828 14 days ago

I just wanted to say that I really enjoy this pinball machine. Owning a Total Nuclear Annihilation is now one of my life goals. When I accomplish a personal achievement that I have set for myself, I plan to celebrate by purchasing a TNA machine. Hopefully, my achievement will align with Spooky doing another production run.

#7829 14 days ago

Thanks joelbob and TheNoTrashCougar . I'm new-ish to the hobby as well so some of the terminology flies over my head sometimes.

It's been 5 days with about 20+ plays and it hasn't triggered it again, so it's super intermittent. Will still look into some tools and order it all though I reckon, for when I'm sure it will inevitably return!

10
#7830 13 days ago
Quoted from psychosoda:

Thanks joelbob and TheNoTrashCougar . I'm new-ish to the hobby as well so some of the terminology flies over my head sometimes.
It's been 5 days with about 20+ plays and it hasn't triggered it again, so it's super intermittent. Will still look into some tools and order it all though I reckon, for when I'm sure it will inevitably return!

Yeah, just follow the wires back from the optos to a little black board called the opto power board. The 2 pin (.156 pitch) connector attaching the opto harness to the board is most likely flaky. If you replace these connectors with Trifurcon Crimp and Stuff connectors, it will be 100% reliable.

Again, here are the Trifurcon terminals:
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html

And here are all the different sized connectors:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=Crimp%20%26%20Stuff

Crimp Tool:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ratcheting-crimp-tool.html

I really recommend that once you get comfortable with crimping these terminals on, that you do it for all of the optos in the game. It will help greatly. Good news is that Spooky is going to use these crimp style connectors going forward, so that is great news. These IDC connectors suck.

--Scott

#7831 12 days ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Yeah, just follow the wires back from the optos to a little black board called the opto power board. The 2 pin (.156 pitch) connector attaching the opto harness to the board is most likely flaky. If you replace these connectors with Trifurcon Crimp and Stuff connectors, it will be 100% reliable.
Again, here are the Trifurcon terminals:
https://www.pinballlife.com/156-trifurcon-crimp-terminals.html
And here are all the different sized connectors:
https://www.pinballlife.com/search.html?Search=Crimp%20%26%20Stuff
Crimp Tool:
https://www.pinballlife.com/ratcheting-crimp-tool.html
I really recommend that once you get comfortable with crimping these terminals on, that you do it for all of the optos in the game. It will help greatly. Good news is that Spooky is going to use these crimp style connectors going forward, so that is great news. These IDC connectors suck.
--Scott

Just a quick update - I've ordered a whole bunch of the terminals and connectors along with a reasonable crimp tool. As shipping and import taxes can be a bit of a lottery, being in the UK, the following are links for these - the 0.156 (inch) pitch equivalent in the UK is 3.96mm.

Terminals: Molex KK 396 Trifurcon female crimp terminal.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-contacts/6794723/

2 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 2 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795066/

4 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 4 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795072/

Reasonable quality crimp tool - AWG 18 - AWG 26 1.6mm - 2.5mm £40
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-Universal-Crimping-Japan-ENGINEER/dp/B002L6HJ8W/ref=psdc_1938873031_t3_B07F2W9XSM

Similar quality crimp too with changeable dies covering 0.7mm-3.1mm £112
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F2W9XSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The genuine Molex crimp tool is £345 including taxes!
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/6634246/

Once I've practised crimping and sorted the intermittent Opto on the 1st drop target, I'm going to replace all the other opto IDC connectors with crimped ones as recommended.

#7832 12 days ago
Quoted from C_n_C:

Just a quick update - I've ordered a whole bunch of the terminals and connectors along with a reasonable crimp tool. As shipping and import taxes can be a bit of a lottery, being in the UK, the following are links for these - the 0.156 (inch) pitch equivalent in the UK is 3.96mm.
Terminals: Molex KK 396 Trifurcon female crimp terminal.
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-contacts/6794723/
2 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 2 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795066/
4 way connector: Molex, KK 396 Female Connector Housing, 3.96mm Pitch, 4 Way
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/wire-housings-plugs/6795072/
Reasonable quality crimp tool - AWG 18 - AWG 26 1.6mm - 2.5mm £40
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Precision-Universal-Crimping-Japan-ENGINEER/dp/B002L6HJ8W/ref=psdc_1938873031_t3_B07F2W9XSM
Similar quality crimp too with changeable dies covering 0.7mm-3.1mm £112
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B07F2W9XSM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The genuine Molex crimp tool is £345 including taxes!
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/crimp-tools/6634246/
Once I've practised crimping and sorted the intermittent Opto on the 1st drop target, I'm going to replace all the other opto IDC connectors with crimped ones as recommended.

Great post and good looking out for the overseas people. Can we tag these as key posts? Who has the ability to do that?
--Scott

#7833 9 days ago

Having some drop target issues.

#1: operates and works exceptionally, no problems ever.

#2: will operate fine in the drop target test mode once or twice, and then will immediately stop firing for the knockdown, no noise or anything from the solenoid, the reset still activates. This causes balls to get stuck after a game is completed with a locked ball still there, and in turn cause a never ending pinball search because the game wont drop the second target. If I leave it in drop target test mode long enough, it will randomly register a #2 knockdown, it could be every five cycles, every 10, sometimes won't do it for upwards of 20 cycles and then will randomly just drop fine once and then continue the lack of response indefinitely. I assume this must be an electrical issue? Switch responds perfectly fine it test mode, and all optos are aligned and responding perfectly.

#3: Won't drop, definitely mechanical as the game will still fire the solenoid for both the knockdown and the reset, but target will not drop. Drops perfectly fine if you manually hit it with a ball, but the solenoid will not knock it down no matter how long in test mode. With game off i can press down on the metal plate that the mini solenoid pulls in to activate the brass arm everrrr so slightly and it will drop the target, but when the solenoid is activating and seemingly hitting the target with more force, it does not drop. Tried bumping up the solenoid power to no avail.

Would very much appreciate any info on either of these issues, i have tried readjusting both microswitches by adjusting the screws that hold it to the frame and troubleshooting it at every possible angle/tightness/looseness and it makes no difference.

Thanks!!!

#7834 9 days ago
Quoted from MadMaxDad:

I saw a post on FB where someone had pink plastic protectors on the lower and green on the upper.
Can’t find it now.
If that person is on here - pls post a pic
Thanks!

Here.

00D01A41-0D86-4380-91A5-B70295EA5493 (resized).jpegE54BB259-0F31-44BF-B804-8C6A446C0946 (resized).jpeg
1 week later
#7835 1 day ago

Hey guys, just joined the club!
Does anybody have any LCD display settings to make the screen look more rich? And where do you go to change those settings? Also, are there any better lcd displays that people have swapped in to replace the original?

I have the kit for the illuminated drop targets. However, I don’t have instructions on how to install. Anybody have anything?
Thank you!

#7836 22 hours ago

On the back of the display panel are controls similar to a telly. 4 buttons two of which are up/down +/-.

Set the brightness way down and the contrast way up and turn "gamma" to On.

This will make alot of difference.

#7837 15 hours ago

Thank you!!!

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