Total Nuclear Annihilation
Spooky Pinball, 2017
Total Nuclear Annihilation (CE)
Spooky Pinball, 2022You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider macmancubed.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
So my buddy kciaccio told me a couple years ago to go play this great game called TNA. I had that opportunity on a business trip, and I was blown away!
I vowed to get my hands on one in the future.
I can now confirm I have a TNA Remake CE on order from Spooky!
Just received the light up side rails and hinges mod as well, so thanks to Scott for recommending them. 
Quoted from Bigdaddyrockstar:My side rail and hinge kit arrive today! Gonna be torture looking at them every day waiting for my CE to arrive.
Yes, same here! Made sure I had all the parts and was missing one of the pieces of red tape for the hinges, so that is getting mailed out.
The places around here that had TNA on location don't have it around anymore, so I had to get one of my own.
Which is why I started in the hobby back in the 90's. Games were hard to find on location, and when you did find one, half of it didn't work. Was a sad time for pinball, but not anymore!
Quoted from Bigdaddyrockstar:So how do people know what number machine they are getting? I ordered the day the CE was available to non-club members. My order number is 13133 and on a different thread somewhere someone mentioned their order number and machine number but the two did not match.
Who here has the most recent order? Curious how close Spooky is to selling out.
When I made the initial payment, I received an email confirmation with my order number.
Later the same day, I received a second email with my build number in the subject line, along with some FAQs.
Quoted from Bigdaddyrockstar:Thanks for that. No follow up email for me. Maybe club members get special treatment
From the couple times I've emailed Spooky, they have been very responsive. I'm sure if you replied to your initial order confirmation email, you'd get a reply back. Or just wait. I believe they work Monday thru Thursday using 10 hour days. Not sure about those that answer email, though.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:So this is already in the game. To install a siren, here is what you need to do.... ..but you need to do this at your own risk as I and Spooky take no responsibility if you break stuff or hurt yourself. If you do break stuff, it will be easy enough to fix though... This is not for the faint of heart as it is a very complex installation to do correctly and safely, but here are the high level steps on how it is done.
Step 1: Buy a 120v Siren and a 12v relay that can switch 120v AC. Usually automotive relays can handle up to 220vac on the switched side, but double check.
Step 2: Disconnect your backbox LED Strip
Step 3: Directly connect your backbox LED strip to a 12v power source in the game
Step 4: Connect the 12v side of the relay to the Backbox LED Strip connector (sot the relay is now controlled by the game)
Step 5: Connect your 120v siren to the switching side of the relay, so it turns on when the backbox LED gets triggered.
Step 6: In the service menu, navigate to "Gameplay (Feature)" and change "Backbox Drive Last Reactor Only" to "Yes"
Step 7: In the same menu, change "Annihilation After Reactor" to whichever reactor you think you can destroy.
This will ultimately turn on the backbox LED driver when the last reactor goes critical. This will in turn trip your relay activating your siren. Crazy, right???
Again, please don't do this unless you know exactly what you are doing. This is pretty advanced and you can break stuff or hurt yourself if you are not careful. In fact, don't do this at all. Yeah, that's right, I changed my mind, don't do this.
--Scott
So that must be how this Pinsider did it, along with an adjustable on/off timer!
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/spooky-tna-rerun-are-you-in-or-out/page/12#post-7114014
Quoted from Pinkitten:Hey, NoTrashCougar (Scott), I love TNA, and I owned a 1.0 and have a 2.0 on order with a 3.0 in my wishlist. But couldn’t you have employed a more green theme, like Total Windfarm Slight Breeze or Total Solar Blackout? Just wondering.
Great job tho!
Good thing the CE comes with Nuclear Green plastic protectors!
That’s all the green TNA needs!
Just got my cabinet choice and shipping information request email from Spooky for #58!
Great way to start the week!
Quoted from o07eleven:#5 reporting in. Ran out of room with the rest of the games, so she's got her own corner for now.
[quoted image]
Which code did it come with? I see it is running 1.5.0 for the jukebox mode currently.
Do you think Scott's hand got tired signing 250 Hot Pinball Action toppers?
Quoted from Blakester:No they asked--trying to decide
I watched the video where Scott Danesi and Jack Danger delivered the very first TNA off the line to a member of the Barenaked Ladies band. He did not get butter because he wouldn’t see it in his lineup of games.
Just a guess, but I’d think he had more than enough funds to get butter on his game, yet he chose not to due to how it was going to be displayed.
Quoted from 27dnast:So, you pay $9k plus tax/shipping for the “CE” version of the game, and you’re still left having to buy pieces like this?
SMH
Yeah, maybe a lame complaint, but if you’re going to advertise powder coating a coin door, hinges, side rails… how can you leave this little detail overlooked.
Also seems like lit side rails and logo, along with speaker light diffusers should have been offered?
You guys are already paying a big premium… and if you “want it all” you’re still left with buying $100s of extras?
This hobby has gone bat-shit crazy
To be fair, you don’t HAVE TO get any of the add-on mods. People choose to, so be it.
Many people have complained that there is only one version of TNA this time around. Spooky could’ve just offered the exact same game as the first run, but everyone would’ve complained about the price increase from 2017. So Spooky decides to load up the game as a CE, and people still complain about the price.
Damned if you do, damned if you don’t.
To those that have their TNA CE, or are running current code of 1.5.0, how many songs are in the jukebox mode?
Quoted from beltking:Yeah probably the coil. Not sure why someone couldn’t just hook to a gi, I don’t need to adjust the settings just light. Prob won’t work.
No it sticks to the metal not the cabinet. Was easy to do. I like it.
The rail lighting kit is made of EL Wire, which runs on AC, not DC. The sound you hear is the inverter changing DC to AC so the lighting can function.61F69D83-92FE-4E88-A389-7AB0BC4363C3 (resized).jpeg6953D097-ACDD-4FB6-84FA-B4E8F1FC0388 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from beltking:There are two ribbons on each time display and so far in 20 plays or so both have worked loose. First top then ball save. Machine just vibrates so much. Going to throw some hot glue on them but Scott can you tell spooky to do this too?
Sounds like some locking ribbon cables are in order. I’m guessing they are just friction fit currently?
Quoted from o07eleven:TNA album, A System if Parts album, and a couple bonus songs.
That’s great to hear! I already listen to the TNA and A System of Parts albums in the car. Now I can hear them on the Danesi Awesome Sub Chamber!
Quoted from beltking:Spoke to Lanez and the shooter rods are available on this link.
https://www.lanezcustomsteel.com/collection/black-sparkle-shooter-rod-housing
Yes, ordered one for my TNA CE as well!
And exactly one week later…
08B89744-375E-4E0C-BBE1-6A58129819CF (resized).jpeg
Seriously, thank you Spooky and Scott for making the CE a reality for those that were late to the TNA party!
Quoted from beltking:People been asking for updates on side light fix. Do at your own risk. Low heat and don’t touch tip to anything. If your handy it’s a 5 min fix.
Pics. First I sealed the large coil and didn’t do anything. Then did it better as well as smaller one. It’s still there but much lower. Turn the knob to adjust light down and put box in bottom of cabinet. By the time you put the glass on it’s almost gone!!!!
[quoted image][quoted image]
Thanks for the update.
Like Scott would say, just turn up the volume!
Quoted from beltking:Spoke to Lanez and the shooter rods are available on this link.
https://www.lanezcustomsteel.com/collection/black-sparkle-shooter-rod-housing
Has anyone heard back that ordered from Lanez? I received an order confirmation email which said a shipment email would follow, but nothing yet. My card was charged on October 24, so I hope to receive the shooter rod housings soon.
Quoted from beltking:Yeah I spoke with him my shooter was ordered first and shipped this morning.
Thanks for the update.
Post a picture when you get it!
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:Same here exact same day too.
It does say another email will be sent once shipped.
[quoted image]
Just got my item shipped email with tracking from Lanez today. Can’t wait to see it up close!
Got the email from Spooky that TNA CE #58 is going on the truck for delivery!
Quoted from Pinball_Eddie:Had mine supposed to be delivered Monday but there was significant damage all around and the machine got hit\damaged.
For those that had to refuse delivery, any rough idea on how long it took to get a replacement? Also, did they just fix the broken\damaged one or send a new machine? Hoping for the latter as even though decals can be replaced, who know what happened to the insides when the forks hit this box.
Congrats to those who have theirs and got their shipping notifications.
Hope everyone has a safe holiday.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
So sorry to see this! You did the right thing by refusing delivery. Spooky will make it right!
My TNA CE #58 is to be delivered Tuesday, so I hope it makes it safely.
Quoted from RebelGuitars:Yes, you can get the filters here; http://lockwhenlit.com/products.htm
I received an order of the display filters from them, as well as Pinball Magazine #5 that has a great interview with Scott and Jack Danger.
TNA CE #58 arrived safely today! Looks and plays excellent!
And the butter cabinet is sublime!
3C167940-9A71-4437-9820-FEB4D78D613E (resized).jpeg6FE1694D-3560-44DE-9571-4FE848032C70 (resized).jpeg4B8D47B1-077B-4CC3-9A23-4D4954CFDC0D (resized).jpegBEAA5582-E57A-4173-9386-7C9109CE2749 (resized).jpegD74F9E1D-4F5E-42E4-9D42-DFE34B2C71B7 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Rjbdmdmd:tna 94. what's the opinion on the backglass should i request another one?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Compared to the side by side photo, yours looks good.
585036AE-A206-402F-92AA-EC22A139B19A (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Pinkitten:It’s a matter of personal tolerance. I had an OG 1.0 last year, and my backglass was much more crisp and had better color saturation. My new one by comparison looked washed out, and like the tint was off. Too pink or something. I compared a photo of my 1.0 with my current one and it was quite apparent. I don’t think they are all lighter, I’m told many of them are fine. And, they may not be an issue for many people. Contact AJ if it’s a problem.
The new backglass definitely has more magenta in the ink when compared to the OG. This makes the pink in the art really stand out, which I’m fine with.
The back of the backglass looked to be more transparent in the OG compared to the CE in the photo I’ve seen.
Quoted from mnrocketry:I'm a tiny bit sad that my new CE TNA doesn't have the original run's awesome sticker on the sub enclosure box.
[quoted image]
I’ve asked Spooky service about the sub chamber stickers, so if they mention anything, I’ll let you know!
I had to contact them because my reactor core timer is missing segments only when displaying certain numbers. The ribbon cables were hot glued from the factory, so they weren’t loose (on both ends of the ribbon cables). I swapped the reactor core timer display with the ball save timer, and now my reactor core timer works perfectly, but my ball save timer has issues.
Very odd, since during attract mode, all segments on both displays will illuminate normally.
Just hanging out between games of TNA, so I fire up the jukebox mode and came across these two tracks. I like them! Thanks for including them, Scott!15F801AA-54EA-4A79-9AF9-50C5365D21BB (resized).jpegED4F11C7-19F9-4CB2-880A-6CF16C1C39FA (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Lilpro66:Did you attach the purple gels to the glass or the score displays?
I have this mod but am unsure on where to attach them.
Definitely to the displays. I trimmed the ones I got a bit so they were no longer than the display and the black foam surround around the displays.
Quoted from Otowner:#133 arrived this week and I set it up yesterday. A few issues, missing tilt bob and auto-plunger too weak to get it onto the playfield. I have contacted spooky about this. I have put about 15 games on it and love it so far! Some of them go really quick for me. This game is such a good contrast to my other games. One of my wife and I favorite games!! Very excited to get this one into my small collection.
I do have one issue I don't know how to get resolved right now. Is there anywhere to get a TNA t-shirt? The guy that owns the pinball bar I play at has one that he got with his original TNA and I really want one.
The tilt bob was in a baggie stapled to the left of my coinbox.
I bought a TNA logo T-shirt from Pinball Life some time ago.5F306343-AEF5-470E-8E5E-75F959C15F1C (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Drew13:Where can I order the black shooter rod housing and which LED flipper buttons work on CE TNA? Thank you in advance
Scott shows how to add lighted flipper buttons with links right here:
Quoted from tectonyc:Guessing the amp shouldnt be set to full power? This is how it came from factory.[quoted image]
Someone else had their subwoofer volume down all the way and had to adjust it.
Here's how my amp was set from the factory. I haven't adjusted it yet, but may take Scott's procedure for a test drive. Can always put it back.
TNA CE Amp Settings (resized).jpg
Amp settings are posted here:
Quoted from Medic:Outlet is grounded. Got a little shock so removing electrical tape
You most likely pierced the high voltage part with a rail screw. If you email the seller they will tell you how to fix it.
When I installed the lit side rail kit, I was careful to line up the clear part with the holes in the side rail, so when reinstalled, the metal screw wouldn’t cut into the wiring.
This picture shows how close the tolerance is. The slightly transparent part is the tape that holds it to the side rail, and the rest is where the high voltage flows to illuminate the rails. Okay to screw into the tape, but not the rest of it!
28DB34B0-5685-4F49-8500-E9A8085A3E2B (resized).jpeg5E5A198D-4E2C-46A3-BF23-1857A72C5E49 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Medic:Ok I will check it. So you get no noise even on brightest setting?
Oh, no, it still makes noise. But it shouldn’t shock you!
I hot glued just the yellow transformer inside the power supply, and it helped a little. I was going to hot glue the rest of the board and try to lower the squeal a bit more, but haven’t gotten around to it yet.
As is, when the power supply is in the back of the cabinet and everything is closed, once the game boots up, you can still hear it. Lowering the brightness changes the pitch, so I would lower it to where it is the least unpleasant for you, then put it in the back of the cabinet and close everything up and see if you can live with it.
I think the bit of noise it makes is worth it for the look, but that’s a decision you have to make on your own.
At least the under cabinet LED strips are quiet.89402DDF-97E7-48E4-9E13-129322D2ECFF (resized).jpeg
Quoted from zermeno68:Just ordered mine.... So, once I get it I will install both at the same time to verify it behaves the same as yours.
Anybody else experience this after adding the EL Hinge kit?
I installed both the side rail and hinge kit and it does squeal. I hot glued the transformer inside the power supply and it helped a bit. I have the brightness at about halfway up.3ACE0F3A-1952-415B-9AC0-2F823A94610F (resized).jpeg74964388-DEE1-4D8D-A5BA-34825E0E5CFB (resized).jpeg
Quoted from nephasth:Update on #116...
I've had it set up for a couple of days and have been playing and tinkering with it. I've got about 40 plays on it so far.
The good - It arrived with zero shipping damage. Nothing was knocked loose during shipping, game booted up and played right away. TNA is even better than I remember it. The last time I played one was at Zapcon 6 or 7, and I only had a chance to play it a few times. It made quite the impression back then. Glad I went with butter, pretty damn sexy! Worth the wait.
The meh - Mine came with 2 plumb bobs, one in the leg box and one stapled next to the coin box. There was a small piece of wood block in the head laying in there loose. Like some others, the rear playfield glass channel isn't aligned perfect. It seems to sag a bit in the middle, but after having the glass out a few times it's much easier to re-install than it was the first time. My right gate needed an adjustment, it was allowing the ball to roll under it in the closed position, simple tweak and it's working as it should. The spinner bracket was bent slightly up, but the spinner still functioned. It's been bent back to level and rips better now. The lower slings are touching the rubbers, but this doesn't seem to be impeding the switches from making contact and firing the sling when touched.
The brow-raising - There is no thread-sert for the head bolt... Anywhere. It's not in the hole and not laying anywhere in the cabinet. There is a speaker hum/static sound in the speakers in attract mode. I've turned down the volume on the back of the monitor, and it doesn't seem to have an effect on the hum. I have not adjusted the amp at all yet. Not an issue during play, but mildly annoying if the machine is left on. I've got a strange issue with my ball save counter digits. I think I saw something similar posted, and I'll have to do some digging here. All the segments work, however when counting down the center segment of the left digit does not light for "2" or "3" and the top left segment of the same digit does not light for "0". Yet those segments light for other numbers.
Nothing really majorly bad with this one... Yet. Hopefully it stays that way. TNA CE is my second NIB pin. My first was AC/DC Luci back in 2014. It had much worse QC issues right out of the box, bad enough I had Stern send me a new playfield, which was like pulling teeth to get done. Luci was an awesome pin to own, but TNA is already outshining Luci. Thanks for your hard work, Scott and crew! I feel lucky with this one after reading so many issues that others have had out of the box. I hope you guys can get yours fixed and flipping soon!
For the speaker hum noise during attract mode, check the audio cables are fully plugged in. Also try adjusting the amp settings as described by Scott. If both of those don’t fix it, I’d ask Spooky for a new amp.
My ball save counter also had issues displaying all numbers and had a couple missing segments only during certain numbers. I emailed Spooky and they sent me a new ball save counter which fixed it.
Just received my signed TNA playfield from Team Spooky! Looks great and was very well packaged!
EC48D520-4CDE-4809-A7D6-589602BF7DC1 (resized).jpeg11C43330-2089-4F46-807E-7C9487423E33 (resized).jpeg6E713C65-70B5-4363-A653-D99F14D5EBB9 (resized).jpeg227C65C9-68E9-4118-B29E-70A7157D6E27 (resized).jpeg0363EA0F-7D6D-43DD-9943-71EF21F97C62 (resized).jpeg62AE671D-05E4-41DF-A3CE-3D35D8CBFC7E (resized).jpeg7A90D8B1-C492-4D26-A9D4-397CE2B6B0C1 (resized).jpeg93FAE2ED-ECAF-4034-AEDA-D2CE4A8B2F65 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Kolk1:Awe!! Signed was an option?
It was and still is! You just have to ask for it!
Quoted from tectonyc:Spooky: "We don't really do returns."
Wonderful.
So what’s their plan? Send you enough boards to rebuild the whole game?
Quoted from woodmedic:I bent the guide on both sides with an adjustable wrench and all seems well with that problem now. I started getting drop target 1 down error now. Guess I better look into that. This game is soo much fun to play. I’m glad I got one before they were all gone!
I found that after making sure the drop target 1 down switch worked fine in switch test mode, I removed the drop target to inspect it. Found tiny bumps that were making the target bind just enough to not hit the down switch. Sanded smooth with some scotchbrite, cleaned and reassembled. Cleared the error log, and it hasn’t come back.
0ED3791F-D3C2-4349-91BE-3B2BB181D94B (resized).jpegMy TNA CE #58 started having more frequent weak auto plunges, where it would try two or more times to auto launch the ball in the shooter lane. Removed the assembly and found one of the two pins had worked loose, enough to make it spin freely and wobble.
CFB1C43B-F53E-41F6-A97B-25732FA04979 (resized).jpeg
I let Spooky tech support know in an email, and one week later, I received an entire new mechanism.
14C42C9A-C80C-44A7-860A-6AC1BB63FB19 (resized).jpeg
Installed and working great again. Thanks, AJ!
Quoted from maxpower:Mine was also not auto plunging properly, so I looked and the E-ring retaining clip on the right side of the mechanism had disappeared.
[quoted image]
I got a new clip at the hardware store, but there still seems to be a lot of slop in the mechanism, and the autoplunger is still pretty weak at times. Here is a video that shows the amount of slop:
Is this normal? Am I also missing a pin or some other part? What can I do to reduce the amount of slop?
Max
Edit: Yes I farted
12A19A7C-ABF1-4D03-BEC9-14A1CCE13DE4 (resized).jpeg
There should be no gap between this flat piece of metal and the wooden playfield. You need to carefully tighten the screws that hold the auto plunger to the underside of the playfield. That should reduce the amount of play or slop.
Quoted from namyzzo:On the topic of parts - I have started my collection of spare/back up parts for various reasons. One of which is availability in the future (PBL has been a goto site - but even they couldn't get me a driver board and these 2 little custom "interconnect" boards - and Sp00ky is all about Sc00by so my requests are low on their list of things to do).
Finding part numbers to properly catalog - is an ongoing challenge. Sp00ky's "support" page has some info on other models - but it seems like they have less for the TNA. Kinda rude.. LOL..
..Thought I would share my current list as .jpg for anyone interested in a quick reference.
You can also go here for the complete info = https://1drv.ms/o/s!AoDwx_jIFCa6kUf7FehU33ymlQPj?e=A5Qyhy
If anyone has more info to add - please post it!.. everything helps![quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The website tnapinball.com which redirects to scottdanesi.com has documentation and parts information, since Scott designed the game and Spooky just built it.
And if you don’t see it there, use the contact me link and Scott will reply.
Quoted from tectonyc:Spooky emailed me this morning and basically again said "no returns. all transactions final."
Dispute filed.
NEVER buy directly from Spooky.
Quite surprising they wouldn’t send out enough parts to fix the game. Would think that would be easier than dealing with a dispute.
Quoted from maxpower:Ok, I tightened two of the screws, but... um... Are there supposed to be screws here?? I see two holes in the plate but no holes in the wood and no screws there.[quoted image]
The whole thing also looks misaligned as well -- the plate is not lined up with the wood. How do you fix that??
I don't know if it's the misalignment, but the whole mechanism seems very loose. Here is another video showing just how loose the whole mechanism is.
Max
As others have said, that part of the plate on mine doesn’t have screws or holes in the playfield to accept screws. The only issue with mine was one of the two pins where the metal e-clips fits was loose. Both pins should be tight, otherwise there will be too much sideways movement. The new one Spooky sent and I installed is working great.
Quoted from tectonyc:Well, what a whirlwind of a weekend at TPF. Got a new personal high score of 3,654,454, and got my initials on 2 of the 3 TNAs at the show.
Saturday afternoon as I was walking into the show, Spooky calls and asks if I can bring the game to TPF for their team to look at. I dreaded getting it downstairs and hauling it to the show, so asked if they'd come to the house 20 min away and work on it. No go. I agreed to bring it up on the condition that if they couldn't fix it, they would take it back to WI themselves. So I brought it up. 3 hours later of their entire staff working on the game, I have a functioning TNA finally after 4 months. They said there was a short on the 5v line, likely due to a faulty ribbon cable? I don't know all the details. I stayed out of the pinball operating room aka back dock and let them work while we hit the show floor one last time. Both driver boards dead, basically replaced all boards and ribbons, etc.
Talked to Scott on Saturday. He's awesome as always. Was great to meet him in person. Wish I had already had the game fixed because I would have bothered him for an autograph haha. Maybe I can convince him to let me mail him a plastic or something...
It's definitely such an amazing game and the only one I would ever consider putting up with this much BS for. Sad it took a chargeback for this to happen, but I'm glad it worked out in the end. Luke and his crew were very helpful. Really nice guys.
That is great to hear your TNA CE has been repaired! What a journey…
Scott is an all around awesome human!
I brought a couple items to the last Houston Arcade and Pinball Expo, and he gladly signed them!
021AD92F-3F76-4D59-888D-20458B39324C (resized).jpeg
Quoted from namyzzo:..just curious = is it still kinda sloppy in nature where the pin and plastic bushings meet? not really the pin in and out motion - but twisting motion. my plastic bushings seem a little too - big if not intentional.
If you get bored - maybe post a video?. Curious to see
There is definitely movement, but it works great. Video below.
Quoted from falcon950:I’m noticing after heavy playing if you go i to jukebox mode, (which my daughter loves), the lighting sequence slows down to a crawl. Also the computer gets extremely hot. Only after playing or leaving the machine on for a while is this an issue. Anyone else notice this? Any solutions to cool the computer better?
I believe someone else had an issue with slow light shows and graphics on the screen that was resolved with a new computer provided by Spooky. Call or email them and they can help you out.
Quoted from tedwasright:Hey there. I'm close to putting in an order. Do you think the butter cabinet is worth the price? $1000
I know it's all about how much money I have and how much I want it. But do YOU think it's worth it? The difference only seems to be that the Butter cabinet has the paint directly on the cabinet while the other is simply a decal. Aren't all Sterns decals?
Call or email Spooky and ask if they will still do a butter cabinet on TNA CE first, and see where the price is for it. If you have more important things to spend the money on, then obviously don't pay it if it is still available.
Butter cabinet is directly printed instead of a decal, then the print is clear coated and polished to a high shine. It is stunning in person. Pictures do it little justice.
TNA CE was my very first NIB pinball from any manufacturer and is bolted to the floor. Also, if you like your pinball cabinet to look and even feel like a freshly waxed brand new car, then butter is definitely for you.
Quoted from namyzzo:I haven't personally tried/installed = but heres one they show for the Aeeon / "UP-Board" models.
https://up-shop.org/active-cooler-fan-for-the-up-board-and-up-core-board.html[quoted image]
Thanks for the link! I’ve not had an issue with my computer, but I ordered one from them to have, just in case. It definitely runs warm with the stock passive heat sink.
Quoted from somenerd:Hey all, just curious if anyone out there has come across a rubber ring diagram? I know the operations manual lists a count of each band and their sizes, but nothing I've come across indicating where each is specifically located.
After 250 plays I've got a couple bands on the way out; one looking ready to snap at any given moment. Looking to replace just those couple bands and it'd be cool to know which lengths are needed without having to disassemble and break out the ruler...
(pics for reference)
[quoted image][quoted image]
I haven’t looked yet, but usually the size of the band is molded into the band itself.
Even though I wasn’t having any computer issues, I also ordered the cooler for my TNA CE.
I took some measurements with the stock heatsink at ambient temperature:
IMG_1898 (resized).jpeg
Then after one hour of jukebox mode:
IMG_1899 (resized).jpeg
Replaced the heatsink with the fan version after it had cooled down to ambient temperature:IMG_1901 (resized).jpeg
And again after one hour of jukebox mode:IMG_1902 (resized).jpeg
A nice reduction of temperature!
Link to order from USA:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/AAEON-UP/EP-FNUPACTCLRDC?qs=AQlKX63v8Ru37xWxaHpQAQ%3D%3D
Highly recommended!
Added 11 months ago:EDIT: link to installation instructions showing where to connect the fan.
Quoted from Kolk1:I ended up buying a playfield just so I’d have some type of wall art. I’d love to have a stern style banner for my TNA.
I bought a TNA playfield also. It looks great, and Team Spooky were kind enough to sign it!IMG_1665 (resized).jpeg
Besides the 4K wallpaper on Scott’s site, and an occasional Pinshield knockoff I’ve seen on eBay, I’ve not seen a Stern type banner for TNA.
Quoted from falcon950:Very easy actually. Just use a screw driver to carefully pry off old one and then stick the new one on. Easy peasy!
I used a plastic automotive trim removal tool to help pop off the heatsink. That way I wouldn’t scratch the very delicate components on the board.IMG_1911 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from nephasth:I don't know man... Final Resistance has got me pretty damned excited...
Final Resistance was very good! I got to play it at Texas Pinball Festival. Couldn't hear much on it, but the shots were nice and brutal, and it does spit the ball back out at you like TNA. Between that and Weird Al, those two modules would push me to get a P3, if only I had the room!
IMG_1794 (resized).jpg
Quoted from tectonyc:Is it still possible to buy the shooter housing? The Lanez link I found in this thread is 404'd
The Sparkle Black Powder Coat shooter housing was not listed on their website when I sent them an email before I received my TNA CE. They replied, and replied again when they were available to purchase. They apparently make them to order, so I’d send them a message and ask if you can still buy one.
Quoted from northerndude:Got in touch with Spooky, Morgan got me all set up. bought a speaker light set, knocker (because I love them), shaker because why the fuck wasn’t there one in there already.
Good to go!
Real knockers are the best knockers.
Quoted from MasterBlaster:I can’t decide if I want the housing to match or if I like the old school look of the chrome housing. Knowing the price might help my decision…what do they have it priced at?
You’d have to contact them and ask, but back in October, 2022, they were $79.
IMG_2212 (resized).pngQuoted from Kolk1:3/4 Canvas offset clips The normal sized playfields I can still slide in and out and rearrange if I want to.
[quoted image]
Thanks for this! I have a TNA playfield and I’ve been wondering how to hang it.IMG_2498 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Kolk1:Me too, since they don’t make Spooky (stern) banners. I have a hallway of playfields now, and banners in the arcade. I have a TNA and Scooby playfield as part of the collection. And after I finish this playfield swap, my next project is to put Yoppsicles (already ordered) on the back of all my playfields in the hallway and light them up. Tuff part is deciding what colors to put where on Scooby and TNA since they have clear inserts, I kinda wanna make it look like it’s in the middle of a game. Have 3-4 reactors red, rest of them green, have the 9 key pad half way filled out, so on.
That’s not a bad idea with the Yoppsicles.
I also thought about building a box for the playfield with room to fit lighting of the inserts underneath. I was looking at getting some RGB LED strips to use, and find a controller that can make them cycle through the colors.
After Team Spooky signed it, I took it to the Houston Arcade and Pinball Expo, where I found a couple other awesome people that had a hand in making this game possible. You guys ROCK!
IMG_2388 (resized).jpeg
IMG_2390 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from SeikoKid:Hey Scott. Ive managed to solve the problem. I say managed but might just keep 1 foot in the door for a few weeks to come. BUT for a while now ive not had any issues which is way way longer than ever before
I refitted the original pawl etc but it didn't solve it. I was getting flipper shaft slip and tightened up the pawl so much it gripped but I knew it was not right. SO I refitted the keyed shafts and clamps but with stock EOS brackets. I also reduced the vertical float distance down to almost nothing as I have in GZ. This aligned the plunger better in the coil but still was creating drag. As I was physically moving the plunger I choose the move the coil around in its mount - there is so much slop compared to Stern mech and then at one point the plunger just flew back into place. Tested a few more push and pulls of the position of the coil and finally settled with pulling it away from the mech. ( I also tried bending back the rear bracket a touch but this did not fully resolve alone )
So figured this needed wedging in place. I have some double sided sticky back velcro the correct thickness and fitted that under the coil. Now everything is aligned and running better than ever.
So the problem as I can see it is there is too much play in the mech, whether ive got a bad one or what I don't know. The left side I don't have any problem with
Regards to flipper power now I need to turn them down a touch, we are set to standard power but I feel sorry for the scoop sometimes
All in all thanks for everyones input. And to note this was happening with stock flipper set up too.. I love this game, it was fast before and now its insane - still not got past Reactor 5
Also a note on the shooter ramp. Spooky sent me out the other version but when I removed mine I saw one of the V fingers was not straight. Sorted that and now no catching
And I have had to weld up my shooter lane pivot bar into the mech as it came loose and that was the cause of my sloppy mech - im a hobby welder so don't judge. It took me a while to get it right [quoted image]
I had Spooky send me a new auto launcher because the weld on the shaft came loose. Fixed under warranty for free, and they even sent a new coil with it. image0 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from Charles_Kline:Speaking of playfields, has anyone figured out what is wrong/where the defect is on the "scratch and dent' playfields?
I haven’t looked with a magnifying glass, but my playfield looks pretty good. Was well packed in shipping, too.
Quoted from GranpaDave:Quoted from gorditas:
Scooby was due for a cleaning and a few switch/ball guide adjustments tonight. I went ahead and tried the audio hiss fix suggested by someone else in the group, and can say that at least on my machine, the audio is now dead quiet. These are the only components I added, under $30 total:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BWM59LST/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B084RN22MW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00
I used 3M dual lock to mount the audio extractor to the backbox.[quoted image]
So I added this to both Scooby and TNA. The hiss and hum on boot up are completely gone. Sound still cranks. Obviously this is not original design. Does this setup have a downside/bad side effects? Almost too good to be true.
I just did this on my TNA CE and it helps not just to clean up the audio, but also reduces the number of pops the speakers emit when first turning on the game.
Quoted from SeikoKid:I just upgraded the display. It came with a new board for the HDMI and Audio in. I wasn’t able to use the 3D moulded bracket so just mounted it direct to the thread mounts on the back of the monitor housing.
I’ve got a power amp in mine so you get a really loud pop when turning on and off. Since the upgrade i get nothing - it’s wonderful
Which display upgrade did you select?
I plan on adding an external 12 inch powered subwoofer to my TNA CE, so no pops at startup would be very nice.
Quoted from vikeking27:I've periodically had this issue where the drop targets just keep cycling in attract mode, and in gameplay. Usually lifting the playfield and jiggling the connectors would fix the behavior for a bit, and over time it would come back. Well, tonight every time a drop target attempts to trigger - the game reboots itself. I had a spare drop target board Spooky sent for the original issue, I put that in, and the issue still happens, so the game is basically unplayable right now - the drop target will trigger during the boot-up sequence, cause the game to reboot and create an infinite loop of uh, bad times. Any ideas?
For the drop targets resetting in attract mode, from:
https://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783
Drop Target Issues
Drop targets are constantly cycling during attract mode
This is the machine telling you that it thinks there are balls stuck behind the drop targets. If there are not balls there, the opto switches are not registering properly. Check your opto power and check to ensure these opto switches are working correctly in the service mode switch test. This is most likely a serial cable (gray shielded cable) came unplugged to the switch boards.
Have also seen where a bad opto in the VUK behind the drop targets can cause the game to constantly reboot. The latest beta code for TNA includes a fix for that:
## Bugs Fixed ##
- Fixed issue that upon certain opto failures would cause the game to boot loop
This code can be found here:
Quoted from somenerd:Hey all, Have a question about some flaky grid lights on my TNA CE... Sometimes (this has happened intermittently since I opened the box) the lights for grid spots 2, 3, 6, and 9 will go out. Usually I can lift the PF, push in one of the small ribbon cables that tends to wiggle downwards back up into its spot, and the lights will come back. Today I tried the same tactic, probably 3 separate times of pulling off-putting on the cables, and still no lights. Is there any other fault point that could be causing these lights to go out? Any potential fuses, faulty boards, etc? I went into the lamp tests and it's literally just these four that refuse to light.
And to add insult to injury, I accidentally tore the sticker on the right interior wall during my lifts and resets... RIP
[quoted image]
Sorry to hear about the torn art blade. Pinball Life sells protectors to keep the art blades from being damaged when the playfield is lifted. These are for standard pinball cabinets, and can be trimmed to fit the TNA cabinet:
https://www.pinballlife.com/interior-cabinet-protector-blade-set.html?Category_Code=
If you want to replace the art blades, Pinball Life sells mirrored blades just for TNA:
https://www.pinballlife.com/total-nuclear-annihilation-meltdown-mirrors.html
If you want to replace the original torn art blade, send an email to Spooky and they should be able to get one for you.
I’m having trouble with the auto plunger assembly again. Spooky sent a new one under warranty when the weld loosened up on the pivot shaft. Now the new one they sent is also starting to loosen and wobble.
I don’t have a welder, so are there other options?
IMG_1709 (resized).jpegIMG_1758 (resized).jpeg
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider macmancubed.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/total-nuclear-annihilation-cluball-welcome?tu=macmancubed and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
Houston, TX