Aurora, IL
Quoted from yyyyyikes:Where's that from? Love it.
(Topic ID: 195784)
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Quoted from Chitownpinball:So when does this mod come out?
[quoted image]
It's not unfortunately. I looked at it a long time ago, but it is too expensive and uses too many drive lines to make it worth it in production. I could always engineer a serial communication circuit for it, but that would be even more cost. Also, it is a proprietary display by Adafruit which means it will be tough to get a company to make these in bulk, or something like it. If you cannot control the supply, then it is way too risky for manufacturing. There is a homebrew guy using it in his game between the flippers though.
This is a very cool display though!
EDIT: Actually, I just found the manufacturer! hmmmm. Won't be on this game because of the number of LED drives required........... But now I know..... 
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:It's not unfortunately. I looked at it a long time ago, but it is too expensive and uses too many drive lines to make it worth it in production. I could always engineer a serial communication circuit for it, but that would be even more cost. Also, it is a proprietary display by Adafruit which means it will be tough to get a company to make these in bulk, or something like it. If you cannot control the supply, then it is way too risky for manufacturing. There is a homebrew guy using it in his game between the flippers though.
This is a very cool display though!
EDIT: Actually, I just found the manufacturer! hmmmm. Won't be on this game because of the number of LED drives required........... But now I know.....
--Scott
Would that be a separate drive per segment so 14 total for the Ball Save display? If so this would be the equivalent of adding 14 new LEDs that you would have to program or am I way off?
London
Quoted from WarLokBlackOut:Hi there. I've got mine TNA in our club house here in the Netherlands and it's used for play to everyone when we're open. Last December a player came to say a ball got stuck in the right scoop. Fast forward - in between loads of tests, hardware check, all software versions used, the works you may say - the found error is still there. And than to someone else who also has a TNA where the same happened. It is likely some of you may have the same. The tricky bit is that it may take ages before you notice, but it is certainly not impossible. What happened was that the aforementioned player came into multiball, got to hold balls and with another one made the drop target jackpots and the scoop super jackpot. He did that without making any other switch in between and after a number of times the ball in the scoop sits there, the rest of the game is fully working, but no return, not even in ball search. When you do a hard reset or start a new game, the ball is popped out instantly. Just to make sure it is not an isolated issue a request to you to try the following. Take the playfield glass of and have a ball ready. You don't need to start a game. Now manually drop the targets with the ball rolling to it and land it in the scoop. When everything is fine all three drop targets will be tripped and the ball is kicked out. Repeat this sequence. If you've done it ten times and the ball still comes out you're good. If however after a number of times (mostly the fifth time on my machine) the ball stays in and the only way to get it out is starting a game or a hard reset you may want to check it once more. Whatever the outcome please let me know. I will keep playing my game but we also like to use it in tournaments and than this error occurring would be a nuisance. Cheers from Holland, Ad Jonker
Hi Ad,
I'll give it a go on mine.
Neil.
Hello - just got my TNA a week ago and am putting in the new ball save lcd w lights. You know that wire ladder that’s in the way? Any issue with cutting the bottom of that off (the part that connects to playfield)? Appears pretty sturdy without attachment.
Quoted from THEFOZ:Hello - just got my TNA a week ago and am putting in the new ball save lcd w lights. You know that wire ladder that’s in the way? Any issue with cutting the bottom of that off (the part that connects to playfield)? Appears pretty sturdy without attachment.
It was pretty easy just to move it in one of the open screw holes once the old ball save is removed.
Auckland
Quoted from FatPanda:You say this like it isn't worth it...How dare you?!
I love the cool noise, but I am always disappointed when the mystery award gives it.
Quoted from razorsedge:Oh and it gives you more points!
One of the things I love about TNA is the way the risk/reward balance of your next shot changes so dynamically according to the state of the reactor/locks/destroy targets/ball save timer/... When I have the ball sitting on the right flipper and I have choices about my next shot, the super spinner doesn't seem to give enough points to make me want the left orbit shot unless it was already the best shot.
I guess I was hoping it might give something else I hadn't spotted like increasing Reactor Temperature faster/spin. But if it is just the cool noise and a few more points that's OK too.
There is more to the super spinner than I think you guys realize....
The super spinner also increases the amount of advance on the reactor core. Whether it is heating it up, or increasing the value. It makes the spinner very important when activated, especially in later reactors where the cool down time is a bit faster.
--Scott
Quoted from THEFOZ:Hello - just got my TNA a week ago and am putting in the new ball save lcd w lights. You know that wire ladder that’s in the way? Any issue with cutting the bottom of that off (the part that connects to playfield)? Appears pretty sturdy without attachment.
Don't remove it, just move it and screw it back down.
--Scott
Thanks for the replies. Here’s another question- you know that fan drawing in the middle of the playfield? What if I put a tiny fan in a small plastic enclosure (the size of the drawing) with a light in there? Would it be easy to just wire those through one of the ball lock opto holes to a source of power and another light? Maybe make the fan run w a green light and then it stops with red light when reactor is critical? Or would that take programming?
0E38AB21-7CA4-4A98-BF3D-DE284A2811ED (resized).jpegQuoted from NeilMcRae:Hi Ad,
I'll give it a go on mine.
Neil.
so i tried this and I could reproduce the issue but I get this on my screen
"RIGHT SCOOP ERROR CHECK DROPS / SCOOP"
So it looks like its a safety item that the code turns off ejecting the ball because it thinks a ball might be trapped and it will eventually cook the coil in the scoop.
TheNoTrashCougar Something maybe to add as an adjustment from a timing point of view? and on every third ball search also trigger the right scoop?
Cheers,
Neil.
I have encountered this error in conjunction with a fault.
Playing games with friends my mate scored the dirty pool jackpot and kept 4 ball going for a while. I wasn't looking the whole time, and he was obviously focused on the flippers. So the balls dwindled away until there was one, but the multiball was still running. The last ball on the playfield drained and he walked away. I noted that the game was still in play with no balls up, and the drop error flashed up on the screen. I also noted that the game was performing ball searches but never firing the scoop.
I guessed there was a ball in the scoop, and my first thought was a broken coil wire or opto or something. Power cycled the game, once booted the scoop kicked the ball out, but it bounced straight back in when it hit the half raised drop that I had failed to spot. Right, I have a drop problem!
At this point I had a revelation that the drop error may be deliberately inhibiting the scoop kickout in search through code, in order to prevent breakage of a stuck up drop target. Onward.
Found that the blade of the microswitch had jumped above the lower guide post for the target, and this was jamming the drop, preventing it from dropping more than about half way. The switch adjustment was on the high side compared to the others, so I adjusted it down in order that the blade could not jump high enough to actually get above the pin at all. This made it match the position of the other two drop switches, as well.
I have had no further problems since tending to the cause of the drop fault.
Is it posible a drop there has a flaky drop switch or scoop switch? ... or maybe some adjustment issue?
Seems like the behaviour could be drop target protection for a hardware bug, rather than a software bug? .... just guessing.
So I fitted the 3 clear drops last night, sat the hardware on the "Awesome Sub Chamber of Horror" enclosure.... and Wow! , there really is some crazy magic stuff going on inside there! ... the drop hardware dances and levitates like nobodys business! Lol
Along with the drops and protectors I ordered some P-roc RGBs and ribon cables, partly to see about this lit drop stuff. Found the spare connector, plugged them in and tested them in the tests menu, fantastic!
I see now what Scott means about holding off so as to impliment a friendly kit for the lit drops. The single RGBs aren't an easy simple screw in mount job. Something was going to be needed so I just finished whipping these babies up at work from some scrap ABS:
When I knock off in a couple of hours I'll be fitting pink protectors and RGBs to drops, with some mates and games and a Friday night bevvy or 2 
Quoted from razorsedge:So I fitted the 3 clear drops last night, sat the hardware on the "Awesome Sub Chamber of Horror" enclosure.... and Wow! , there really is some crazy magic stuff going on inside there! ... the drop hardware dances and levitates like nobodys business! Lol
[quoted image]
Along with the drops and protectors I ordered some P-roc RGBs and ribon cables, partly to see about this lit drop stuff. Found the spare connector, plugged them in and tested them in the tests menu, fantastic!
I see now what Scott means about holding off so as to impliment a friendly kit for the lit drops. The single RGBs aren't an easy simple screw in mount job. Something was going to be needed so I just finished whipping these babies up at work from some scrap ABS:
[quoted image]
When I knock off in a couple of hours I'll be fitting pink protectors and RGBs to drops, with some mates and games and a Friday night bevvy or 2
You’ve got to post some pictures/video when you get this working. Awesome job!
Okay so I installed the drop lighting first, before the pink plastics, so that I could do some novice photography with clear protectors...
Drop 1 (closest to flippers)
20200522_185506 (resized).jpg
Drop 2
20200522_185516 (resized).jpg
Drop 3
20200522_185533 (resized).jpg
20200522_185605 (resized).jpg
The spare connector circled. It is a long way from the third drop, the ribon I ordered Only Just reached! ... no tension, but nothing to spare either.
20200522_185644 (resized).jpg
Drops up
20200522_190846(0) (resized).jpg
20200522_190844 (resized).jpg
20200522_190847 (resized).jpg
20200522_190849 (resized).jpg
Drops down
20200522_190943 (resized).jpg
20200522_190952 (resized).jpg
20200522_190953 (resized).jpg
Next will be the ball save upgrade, and those pink protectors! 
Quoted from razorsedge:I see now what Scott means about holding off so as to impliment a friendly kit for the lit drops.
Is Scott ultimately going to provide a kit for this?
Quoted from THEFOZ:I’m thinking about putting pink in the center though.
Just remember that the Green and Pink are "activated" by different color GI, so you can't get the full effect of each at the same time.
Quoted from THEFOZ:I’m working on this reactor coolant fan mod and then the coolant pump after that.
Once you figure this out, are you going to offer this to others as a kit? Not sure what the coolant pump is, but your idea of the coolant fan mod sounds really cool.
Quoted from razorsedge:Okay so I installed the drop lighting first, before the pink plastics, so that I could do some novice photography with clear protectors...
Drop 1 (closest to flippers)
[quoted image]
Drop 2
[quoted image]
Drop 3
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The spare connector circled. It is a long way from the third drop, the ribon I ordered Only Just reached! ... no tension, but nothing to spare either.
[quoted image]
Drops up
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Drops down
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]Next will be the ball save upgrade, and those pink protectors!
Looks incredible. I can’t wait to do this myself. If you were to do the install again what would you do differently?do you like your led mounts design? Do they sell a longer cable?
Quoted from xbmanx:I have a strange issue where the reactor key lights will just all go dead and not light at all, then they will just start working again. I went to that board, tightened all the connectors but it still does it. Any advice? Thank you greatly!
I wanted to followup and see if anyone had advice on this. It seems intermittent. Thanks
Quoted from xbmanx:I wanted to followup and see if anyone had advice on this. It seems intermittent. Thanks
One of the things I might look for is an IDC that the wire is not completely punched down, perhaps creating flaky power supply to the board?
Quoted from razorsedge:One of the things I might look for is an IDC that the wire is not completely punched down, perhaps creating flaky power supply to the board?
all of the wires to that light board seem well connected...are you talking about wires elsewhere?
Quoted from Cheeks:Is Scott ultimately going to provide a kit for this?
I think so. Seems the mounting of the RGBs could be a hold up for a kit.
Besides the ABS mounting blocks/clamps that I made, and 3 screws, I only ordered/required 3 other items:
- Frosted Rollover Drop Target x3 $14.85
- Single RGB insert LED pcb x3 $5.25
- P-ROC PD-LED Direct RGB harness (24inch) x1 $5.95
All from Pinball Life. All that seems to be missing to maybe put together a kit is the mounting blocks/clamps, or something other to achieve a similar thing.
Quoted from joelbob:If you were to do the install again what would you do differently?do you like your led mounts design? Do they sell a longer cable?
Happy enough with how they ended up. Firm, clear of everything hazardous, drops light up nicely... will have to test for a while I guess? 
Not sure if they sell a longer cable... it was the only one I noticed listed, but I was in "TNA game specific parts" at the time. The 24" cable is long enough to give strain relief, just have to run a reasonably direct route that's all.
Quoted from xbmanx:all of the wires to that light board seem well connected...are you talking about wires elsewhere?
I mean the back side of the IDC connectors where the wire is wedged between the contact blades for connection. They have to be in far enough to ensure the insulation is well displaced (cut/bared), and good contact is made.
I had an intermittent lock opto issue some time ago, it was an IDC connector for an opto transmitter where the wire was not fully punched in. The same kind of fault was causing my Beacon to not work fully when I unboxed from new, so it does happen. There are Hundreds of IDC connections in the game, so it is no real surprise that one or two don't quite make the cut here or there.
Power connectors generally use this IDC type of connector.
*IDC - Insulation Displacment Connector
Quoted from razorsedge:I mean the back side of the IDC connectors where the wire is wedged between the contact blades for connection. They have to be in far enough to ensure the insulation is well displaced (cut/bared), and good contact is made.
I had an intermittent lock opto issue some time ago, it was an IDC connector for an opto transmitter where the wire was not fully punched in. The same kind of fault was causing my Beacon to not work fully when I unboxed from new, so it does happen. There are Hundreds of IDC connections in the game, so it is no real surprise that one or two don't quite make the cut here or there.
Power connectors generally use this IDC type of connector.
I was advised by Scott that if you're comfortable crimping on trifurcon connectors, that would be the route to go since they are a much better connector.
I was having switch issues with the rear scoop and changing out the IDC connectors to trifurcon resolved my issue.
Quoted from razorsedge:I mean the back side of the IDC connectors where the wire is wedged between the contact blades for connection. They have to be in far enough to ensure the insulation is well displaced (cut/bared), and good contact is made.
I had an intermittent lock opto issue some time ago, it was an IDC connector for an opto transmitter where the wire was not fully punched in. The same kind of fault was causing my Beacon to not work fully when I unboxed from new, so it does happen. There are Hundreds of IDC connections in the game, so it is no real surprise that one or two don't quite make the cut here or there.
Power connectors generally use this IDC type of connector.
*IDC - Insulation Displacment Connector
i will investigate. Thanks
Hi everyone, good morning.
OK, here are some follow-ups to some things posted above.
RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.
If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.
1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html
Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.
That should be it, but I do want to assemble proper instructions with pictures and make a one product kit to help make it as easy and self explanatory as possible.
The Scoop Error:
The code in this game will do what it can to prevent the scoop from firing if a drop target is up. This is great, but if you have a flaky drop switch, this can cause the ball to get stuck in the scoop. Another way the ball can get stuck in the scoop is if the scoop opto is not functioning properly. Check all of these things and you should be good to go. I would hate to have to remove the scoop safety check, but if this keeps happening, I may have to do something different to deal with it.
--Scott
Quoted from razorsedge:Okay so I installed the drop lighting first, before the pink plastics, so that I could do some novice photography with clear protectors...
Drop 1 (closest to flippers)
[quoted image]
Drop 2
[quoted image]
Drop 3
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
The spare connector circled. It is a long way from the third drop, the ribon I ordered Only Just reached! ... no tension, but nothing to spare either.
[quoted image]
Drops up
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Drops down
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
[quoted image]Next will be the ball save upgrade, and those pink protectors!
Take a video of the ball lock sequences with the clear drop mod to really get people excited! 
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Hi everyone, good morning.
OK, here are some follow-ups to some things posted above.
RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.
If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.
1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html
Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.
That should be it, but I do want to assemble proper instructions with pictures and make a one product kit to help make it as easy and self explanatory as possible.
The Scoop Error:
The code in this game will do what it can to prevent the scoop from firing if a drop target is up. This is great, but if you have a flaky drop switch, this can cause the ball to get stuck in the scoop. Another way the ball can get stuck in the scoop is if the scoop opto is not functioning properly. Check all of these things and you should be good to go. I would hate to have to remove the scoop safety check, but if this keeps happening, I may have to do something different to deal with it.
--Scott
Sweet! I'm adding this to my next PBL order!
Quoted from FatPanda:Sweet! I'm adding this to my next PBL order!
I hope I did not just open a can of worms on my email inbox by posting all of that info. HAHA!
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:I hope I did not just open a can of worms on my email inbox by posting all of that info. HAHA!
--Scott
Nah, I don't think so. Seems to be pretty straightforward to me based on your post and razorsedge
Now I'm deciding if there is other stuff that I will need and if I should wait for a bit
The other thing is that I have flashinstinct decals on my black drops. I'm hoping they can transfer over to the new drops without too much fuss.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:There is more to the super spinner than I think you guys realize....
The super spinner also increases the amount of advance on the reactor core. Whether it is heating it up, or increasing the value. It makes the spinner very important when activated, especially in later reactors where the cool down time is a bit faster.--Scott
Does this mean hitting the spinner more will cause the slings and targets inside the reactor to add more value per hit? That would be good information. I had been wishing super spinner gave 1% per spin or something.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Hi everyone, good morning.
OK, here are some follow-ups to some things posted above.
RGB Clear Drops:
So it was only a matter of time before someone figured this out!! HAHA! Awesome. I was planning on making a kit with all the components needed to install these along with instructions. The hold-up right now is I need to make this a fool-proof install as it is not a simple mod installation. This is going to require skill to replace the drop targets, route wires, and screw new holes in the bottom of the playfield to mount the lights. I am actively working on this to come up with the easiest way possible to install and prep the kits.
If you feel inclined to just do this yourself now, below is the list of what you will need. I used these exact parts on my machine.
1x - RGB Harness: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-600-0274-00
3x - RGB Insert Lights: https://www.pinballlife.com/p3-roc-single-rgb-insert-led-pcb-assembly.html
3x - Frosted Drop Targets: https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0021-00-71
3x - 3/8 Hex Screw: https://www.pinballlife.com/6-x-38-unslotted-hex-head-screw.html
3x - 3/8 OD Rubber: https://www.pinballlife.com/38-od-black-mini-post-rubber.html
1x - Pack of Zip Ties (optional): https://www.pinballlife.com/4-nylon-cable-zip-ties-pack-of-25.html
Super basic installation instructions:
1. Turn off machine and raise playfield.
2. Replace all 3 drop targets with clear ones.
3. Plug in rainbow cable to the only open slot on one of the green PD-LED boards (visually match orientation from one of the other boards).
4. Plug in RGB Insert Lights into the first 3 positions of the rainbow cable harness (verify by carefully powering on machine and once in attract mode they should all 3 start flashing. If one stays white, it is in the wrong spot. If they do not light up, they are plugged in reverse.).
5. Screw down the RGB lights behind the clear drops pointing up at them, but not interfering physically with the drop. Use the little rubber between the light and the playfield.
6. Route the rainbow cable carefully using zip ties away from anything that could snag them mechanically.
7. Power on machine and in attract mode, make sure the lights are hooked up in the proper orientation. The lightshows will make it obvious if they need the cables swapped around (easy fix). LED test also helps too.
That should be it, but I do want to assemble proper instructions with pictures and make a one product kit to help make it as easy and self explanatory as possible.
The Scoop Error:
The code in this game will do what it can to prevent the scoop from firing if a drop target is up. This is great, but if you have a flaky drop switch, this can cause the ball to get stuck in the scoop. Another way the ball can get stuck in the scoop is if the scoop opto is not functioning properly. Check all of these things and you should be good to go. I would hate to have to remove the scoop safety check, but if this keeps happening, I may have to do something different to deal with it.
--Scott
What if some easy programming could have one (or all three if used) RGB lights stay lit green and flash red when the reactor is critical? And then it was an option in the settings? And then I PayPal’d someone for their time? Just wondering.
Quoted from McSquid:Does this mean hitting the spinner more will cause the slings and targets inside the reactor to add more value per hit? That would be good information. I had been wishing super spinner gave 1% per spin or something.
The spinner by itself advances the reactor, which either gives it more value, or heats it up depending on the status. The Super spinner adds a bunch more value to the spinner therefor giving more points to the reactor value or reactor temperature per spin.
Does that make sense? I am only 1 cup of coffee in today. haha
--Scott
Quoted from THEFOZ:What if some easy programming could have one (or all three if used) RGB lights stay lit green and flash red when the reactor is critical? And then it was an option in the settings? And then I PayPal’d someone for their time? Just wondering.
I am not sure what you mean. The lit drops are fully integrated into the gameplay, just nobody has seen it yet except for razorsedge .
--Scott
EDIT: Are you talking about using the 1 unused RGB drive on this harness for something else?
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:I am not sure what you mean. The lit drops are fully integrated into the gameplay, just nobody has seen it yet except for razorsedge .
--Scott
EDIT: Are you talking about using the 1 unused RGB drive on this harness for something else?
If there’s an unused RGB drive that’s even better (I was thinking of using whatever was available from the drop target lights). I ordered a small computer fan that’s usb powered and was gonna plug it into an open slot on the board for power. Then i wanted to put a light in the housing (or next to it) for a reactor cooling fan.
Is plugging this into an open slot a bad idea? If not, could that unused drive be easily programmed?
Quoted from THEFOZ:If there’s an unused RGB drive that’s even better (I was thinking of using whatever was available from the drop target lights). I ordered a small computer fan that’s usb powered and was gonna plug it into an open slot on the board for power. Then i wanted to put a light in the housing (or next to it) for a reactor cooling fan.
Is plugging this into an open slot a bad idea? If not, could that unused drive be easily programmed?
Please do not plug a fan into the RGB socket of the PD-LED board. You are gonna have a bad time. I will see what I can do in the future about using that unused RGB out for reactor status. No promises, but not a bad idea.
--Scott
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Please do not plug a fan into the RGB socket of the PD-LED board. You are gonna have a bad time. I will see what I can do in the future about using that unused RGB out for reactor status. No promises, but not a bad idea.
--Scott
Thanks! Oh I meant plug fan into open usb (same one I plug my thumb drive into to update code).
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Please do not plug a fan into the RGB socket of the PD-LED board. You are gonna have a bad time. I will see what I can do in the future about using that unused RGB out for reactor status. No promises, but not a bad idea.
--Scott
I LOVE that you are continuing to develop this game. I don't know of any of game that has this type of development and continual improvement. The fact that you listen to our ideas is so very appreciated. Thank you TheNoTrashCougar for all that you do!
Any chance for a setting to reverse the polarity on the lock lights? Then I could use some flashers.
Quoted from FatPanda:Nah, I don't think so. Seems to be pretty straightforward to me based on your post and razorsedge
Now I'm deciding if there is other stuff that I will need and if I should wait for a bit
The other thing is that I have flashinstinct decals on my black drops. I'm hoping they can transfer over to the new drops without too much fuss.
flashinstinct Any chance you can print some clear drop targets for us?
Well it's 2am Saturday, a few scotches in ... managed to jerryrig my phone and play a game where I got multiball at least Lol
Sorry couldn't cope with the orientation stuff right now 
The RGB integration is friken Awesome! 
Flickering current lock target light flickering, and timed with music, is really cool as well. Draws attention to the lock shot as it hits the beat!.
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Please do not plug a fan into the RGB socket of the PD-LED board. You are gonna have a bad time. I will see what I can do in the future about using that unused RGB out for reactor status. No promises, but not a bad idea.
--Scott
I was thinking of something like this, like, for a fan mod. An RGB dedicated to it would be nice!. It would mean the fan could be potentially controlled by code (indirectly via the RGB LED activity) as well as being lit inside/below in a cowl or duct. Assuming the Fan was going to run Only for the "Reactor Online" mode in the core, if the LED was coded to only activate during this phase, then an opto de-coupler or something else similar could be used to signal the fan to run? . IDK .... I do really like the idea of a (slow) running core fan during the core phase. With a controlled LED below glinting through it of course!
I suggest slow revolutions to give an effect of scale. The larger the fan the slower its RPM will be. Having a small fan rotating slowly will help make it seem like a massive cooling fan, for a reactor.
Also, here's rough measurements of what I hacked together to mount Drop RGBs:
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:Take a video of the ball lock sequences with the clear drop mod to really get people excited!
--Scott
This is what I wanna see! Soooo cool!
Fellow flippers,
Is this the flipper spring used for TNA?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html
Thanks in advance!
Quoted from highdef:Fellow flippers,
Is this the flipper spring used for TNA?
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html
Thanks in advance!
No, use this one:
https://www.pinballlife.com/data-east-and-early-sega-flipper-extension-spring.html
This is the fan I ordered, unfortunately wont be here for another week. I agree slowing the blades down would look better, might be able to by restricting airflow. I’m sure the rpm is pretty high without restriction. The size seems about perfect though.
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