(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!

By Pinballlew

7 years ago


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#11051 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

How do I fix knockdowns? My Right Flipper (Brand New Coil) suffers terribly from knockdowns on incoming/multiple ball strikes.

OK for knockdowns... This is basically the ball traveling at full speed at the flippers and the held up flippers. This can cause a ball to knock back the flipper unexpectedly due to the hold power of the flipper mech. This does not hurt your game, or your flipper mechanism as it is just the flipper falling. What I did on TNA to combat this was made the hold stronger in the software by pulsing the main winding (this is no secret). This is the buzzing sound that you hear once in a while. This is not a one size fits all type thing though as people in different parts of the globe have different incoming voltages to their systems. TNA does not have EOS switches, if it did, I could send a "reflip" signal to the coil like other manufacturers do, but honestly, I am not a fan of this. This would cause the ball to be flipped away upon knockdown. The good news is that you can do a few things that will stop these knockdowns from happening.

1: If you have an early original run TNA, within the first 100 or so, swap out your coil stops with the A-12111 coil stops. It helps with the knockdowns.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-coil-stop-a-12111.html. You could also rebuild your flippers if your game has a ton of plays on it.

2: Replace your flipper return springs with the Williams ones. This helps significantly. Part number 10-364.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-extension-spring.html

3: There is a setting called "Flipper Hold Boost Level" under the "Machine (Standard)" menu. Turn it up 1 notch. Keep in mind, this WILL make your coils run warmer, but will reduce the knockdowns. Just watch your coil heat with this one turned up. IF YOUR GAME IS WORKING FINE DO NOT TOUCH THIS SETTING. The flipper hold boost should be on the lowest number that your game plays well with.

4: If all else fails, slightly lower the left scoop power and flipper coil power for all flippers. I am basically pushing this design to the edge of failure to give it a fun experience with the default coil settings. I honestly may have to reduce this default setting in a future update so people do not have to tweak stuff.

I hope this helps to clarify what the knockdowns are, why they happen, and what can be done to fix it.

--Scott

#11052 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

OK for knockdowns... This is basically the ball traveling at full speed at the flippers and the held up flippers. This can cause a ball to knock back the flipper unexpectedly due to the hold power of the flipper mech. This does not hurt your game, or your flipper mechanism as it is just the flipper falling. What I did on TNA to combat this was made the hold stronger in the software by pulsing the main winding (this is no secret). This is the buzzing sound that you hear once in a while. This is not a one size fits all type thing though as people in different parts of the globe have different incoming voltages to their systems. TNA does not have EOS switches, if it did, I could send a "reflip" signal to the coil like other manufacturers do, but honestly, I am not a fan of this. This would cause the ball to be flipped away upon knockdown. The good news is that you can do a few things that will stop these knockdowns from happening.
1: If you have an early original run TNA, within the first 100 or so, swap out your coil stops with the A-12111 coil stops. It helps with the knockdowns.
https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-flipper-coil-stop-a-12111.html. You could also rebuild your flippers if your game has a ton of plays on it.
2: There is a setting called "Flipper Hold Boost Level" under the "Machine (Standard)" menu. Turn it up 1 notch. Keep in mind, this WILL make your coils run warmer, but will reduce the knockdowns. Just watch your coil heat with this one turned up. IF YOUR GAME IS WORKING FINE DO NOT TOUCH THIS SETTING. The flipper hold boost should be on the lowest number that your game plays well with.
3: If all else fails, slightly lower the left scoop power and flipper coil power for all flippers. I am basically pushing this design to the edge of failure to give it a fun experience with the default coil settings. I honestly may have to reduce this default setting in a future update so people do not have to tweak stuff.
I hope this helps to clarify what the knockdowns are, why they happen, and what can be done to fix it.
--Scott

Have you ever tried repulsing the power winding, if the flipper is up, a few ms after the scoop ejects a ball? Preemptive knock down protection

#11053 1 year ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

Have you ever tried repulsing the power winding, if the flipper is up, a few ms after the scoop ejects a ball?

I have and it is not a good idea as the coils are controlled by the hardware directly to eliminate flipper lag. This unfortunately does not allow me to control the flipper hold power on the fly without massive software re-writes. It honestly is not worth it as I don't get many complaints about it after the steps I took to eliminate it.

--Scott

#11054 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

I have and it is not a good idea as the coils are controlled by the hardware directly to eliminate flipper lag. This unfortunately does not allow me to control the flipper hold power on the fly without massive software re-writes. It honestly is not worth it as I don't get many complaints about it after the steps I took to eliminate it.
--Scott

Keep it simple, Scott. That works too

#11055 1 year ago
Quoted from TreyBo69:

Keep it simple, Scott. That works too

I agree with trying to keep stuff simple, with pinball engineering and programming, it is easy to get into a 1 step forward 2 steps back situation. I have done it many times. haha

I did just update my post with the suggestion to replace your flipper return springs with the Williams ones. The reason these were not like that from the factory is that early in the run there was a batch of the Williams ones that seemed to be breaking across all manufacturers that used them. We decided to swap to a beefier spring, but that put more downforce on the flipper and thus, caused more knockdown scenarios.

#11056 1 year ago

Thanks Scott. You da man.

#11057 1 year ago

Do the CORE rollovers count towards overheating a reactor?

#11058 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Do the CORE rollovers count towards overheating a reactor?

YES. You can shoot for them while in the core too, it is just hard to do, but REALLY worth it.

#11059 1 year ago

Good write up, thanks Scott. I'm probably due for a flipper rebuild given that I have #88, and also when I got my machine it said it had 10k plays on it. Given the all-around excellent shape it's in, I found that number highly questionable. That being said, my left flipper will go back a little but still holds the by fine, actually seems like it helps catching off the scoop.

#11060 1 year ago
Quoted from cookpins:

Good write up, thanks Scott. I'm probably due for a flipper rebuild given that I have #88, and also when I got my machine it said it had 10k plays on it. Given the all-around excellent shape it's in, I found that number highly questionable. That being said, my left flipper will go back a little but still holds the by fine, actually seems like it helps catching off the scoop.

Sounds like you need a rebuild for sure.

--Scott

#11061 1 year ago
Quoted from Jesder:

Thanks for posting about this. I ordered the one from mouser that you linked.
How easy is it to remove the old heatsink and install the new one with the fan?
Also, where do you connect the small 2 pin fan connector to on the cpu board?

Very easy actually. Just use a screw driver to carefully pry off old one and then stick the new one on. Easy peasy!

#11062 1 year ago
Quoted from falcon950:

Very easy actually. Just use a screw driver to carefully pry off old one and then stick the new one on. Easy peasy!

I used a plastic automotive trim removal tool to help pop off the heatsink. That way I wouldn’t scratch the very delicate components on the board.IMG_1911 (resized).jpegIMG_1911 (resized).jpeg

#11063 1 year ago

Hi Scott TheNoTrashCougar ,
Scoring question: Is there benefit in destroying the reactor targets quickly? Does the reactor value decay? Or is it better trying to lock balls and complete the reactor with 2x,3x scoring ?

#11064 1 year ago
Quoted from jaybeedee:

Hi Scott TheNoTrashCougar ,
Scoring question: Is there benefit in destroying the reactor targets quickly? Does the reactor value decay? Or is it better trying to lock balls and complete the reactor with 2x,3x scoring ?

The reactor value does not decay, but this is something I thought would make the game a bit too difficult for average players to get decent scores on.

For me, programming the game, the trick is to balance the frustration levels for the average person. If people get too frustrated, they are not going to keep playing. This I think pushes them over the edge, so I decided against it. The reactor temperature will cool when the reactor is running, but once it is critical, it will lock in place.

--Scott

#11065 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

The reactor value does not decay, but this is something I thought would make the game a bit too difficult for average players to get decent scores on.
For me, programming the game, the trick is to balance the frustration levels for the average person. If people get too frustrated, they are not going to keep playing. This I think pushes them over the edge, so I decided against it. The reactor temperature will cool when the reactor is running, but once it is critical, it will lock in place.
--Scott

Yeah good call on that.
You could move the target that needs to be hit after locked in. Like a timer maybe would be cool.

#11066 1 year ago
Quoted from beltking:

Yeah good call on that.
You could move the target that needs to be hit after locked in. Like a timer maybe would be cool.

Are changes to the game still in the cards?

#11067 1 year ago
Quoted from beltking:

Yeah good call on that.
You could move the target that needs to be hit after locked in. Like a timer maybe would be cool.

It actually already does that if you hit more than 20 non-lit destroy targets. It does not not for gameplay experience, but because it thinks that destroy target is broken, so it moves the shot.

Quoted from Kneissl:

Are changes to the game still in the cards?

Probably just slight things. Nothing crazy.

--Scott

#11068 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Probably just slight things. Nothing crazy.

--Scott

Can we get a 'Triple Ramp Scoring' Mystery Award?

#11069 1 year ago
Quoted from guitarded:

Can we get a 'Triple Ramp Scoring' Mystery Award?

Triple ramp scoring would REALLY unbalance the game.

#11070 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Triple ramp scoring would REALLY unbalance the game.

I agree, it’s already worth too much as is!

#11071 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Probably just slight things. Nothing crazy.
--Scott

Scoop light programmed into the light show? Pretty please!

#11072 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Probably just slight things. Nothing crazy.
--Scott

Please consider an unlimited ball run mode that’s selectable like the co op or team modes. Then have it show your Annihilation time and how many balls as a separate leaderboard?

I know I could manually just change the settings to make it 10 balls and do co op, but would be neat to compete against others as well as track progression.

#11073 1 year ago

I'm considering joining Team TNA. Do you think I'm better off going new (with a months-long wait apparently), or a used one (HUO) available now but priced almost the same.

The wait is not an issue. More that I wonder if I'm safer with the used one that should be good to go, rather than the need to dial in a new one.

#11074 1 year ago

Might have been Facebook but I saw a new CE with like 50 plays for 8K. As much as I love new stuff , that’s a decent savings. Had some basic mods too, like lit rails and hinges.

#11075 1 year ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

I'm considering joining Team TNA. Do you think I'm better off going new (with a months-long wait apparently), or a used one (HUO) available now but priced almost the same.
The wait is not an issue. More that I wonder if I'm safer with the used one that should be good to go, rather than the need to dial in a new one.

Is the used a CE or OG? If it’s the CE, I’d buy it and save the wait. If it’s an OG, I’d order a new CE and deal with the wait. Both games play the same, but the CE has improved wire connectors, etc….

#11076 1 year ago

It's an OG. Maybe I'll consider an offer that's well under, to make up for all that. hmmmmmm

#11077 1 year ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

I'm considering joining Team TNA. Do you think I'm better off going new (with a months-long wait apparently), or a used one (HUO) available now but priced almost the same.
The wait is not an issue. More that I wonder if I'm safer with the used one that should be good to go, rather than the need to dial in a new one.

I’ve had my OG since it was delivered 5 years ago. After seeing my 3 friends CEs and hearing their stories, I would buy a used OG any day of the week over the CE.

#11078 1 year ago
Quoted from Jakers:

I’ve had my OG since it was delivered 5 years ago. After seeing my 3 friends CEs and hearing their stories, I would buy a used OG any day of the week over the CE.

Seems like both have their issues to be sorted out. Once it’s solved, the machine is right as rain for quite some time (OG or CE). I have a CE but if I’d been able to find a solid original for a decent price I would have bought it. I like the polished trim on the original better than the powder coat on the CE.

#11079 1 year ago

I picked up an OG early this year, which was loaded with every option the CE offers except the powder coat, plus an external sub. I've had to re-solder one wire so far, otherwise no major issues. I think the external sub alleviates the issue of connections getting shook loose, and also really elevates the sound experience so it's a win-win. I was good with saving almost $3k versus rolling the dice on a new CE.

#11080 1 year ago
Quoted from Good-Times:

I'm considering joining Team TNA. Do you think I'm better off going new (with a months-long wait apparently), or a used one (HUO) available now but priced almost the same.
The wait is not an issue. More that I wonder if I'm safer with the used one that should be good to go, rather than the need to dial in a new one.

My CE issues: Speaker/backbox door wont open/close easily - it hangs up. Overtightened screw in the "core" lane guide (longer screw fixed this). Broken wire/solder joint on coindoor lights (resoldered). Cold solder joint on power distribution board. Improper crimp / no crimp on the 120vac line inside the outlet service box.

However, I think I would prefer the new machine over the OG. OG "seemed" to use different wire crimp/connectors which "they" advise to replace with the CE styles. The SBC computer wont have all the hours on it. Warranty. You get the powder coated goodies (which, when I go to the pinball place to play the old TNA = it just seems like a "clunker" now)

either way = get one.!!

#11081 1 year ago

Showed up on my news feed. No idea who he is.

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#11082 1 year ago
Quoted from Kolk1:

Showed up on my news feed. No idea who he is.
[quoted image]

50 plays isn’t even enough time to figure out how to make your shots. This has to be someone who had never played the game prior to buying it. “This thing doesn’t even have RAMPS?!? It’s gone!!”

#11083 1 year ago

Sneaky sale - because why not
Free shipping with the price reduction - UZYC-LGGM-BA2B-CJ5D. (limit of 5 / 4 left)

TNA Target Decals 2.0 decals with the clear drop targets are $20 instead $23 - get one of the 5 coupons to get free shipping to saving a total of $6.
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1054-flashinstinct/01381-total-nuclear-annihilation-target-decals

This is the only post about this sneaky offer.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

Added 17 months ago:

3 left

Added 17 months ago:

2 left

#11084 1 year ago

Replaced the LCD screen so it's not blown out gray from my POV. I dunno why but that stock screen really busted my chops, awesome upgrade.

Lock stealing is real. Protect yourself.

#11085 1 year ago

UPDATE on CPU from Spooky. Long story short...TNA (OG) won't boot. Tried all the steps others were having with same symptoms. Last thing I have done...purchased a CPU from Spooky. Didn't fix the boot problem.

I'm out of ideas on what to do to get this thing going. Anyone?

#11086 1 year ago
Quoted from Wheelzzz:

UPDATE on CPU from Spooky. Long story short...TNA (OG) won't boot. Tried all the steps others were having with same symptoms. Last thing I have done...purchased a CPU from Spooky. Didn't fix the boot problem.
I'm out of ideas on what to do to get this thing going. Anyone?

I would call AJ and troubleshoot it with him if you haven't already. Also if you could post a detailed description of the problem. Symptoms, suspected causes, what you’ve tried so far, what you were doing when the prob started, etc…

#11087 1 year ago
Quoted from Wheelzzz:

UPDATE on CPU from Spooky. Long story short...TNA (OG) won't boot. Tried all the steps others were having with same symptoms. Last thing I have done...purchased a CPU from Spooky. Didn't fix the boot problem.
I'm out of ideas on what to do to get this thing going. Anyone?

Please test your voltages at the power distribution board. This will tell you if any of the power supplies have died. You can also test them at the power supplies as well, just in case the Power Distribution board has a problem.

--Scott

#11088 1 year ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

Please test your voltages at the power distribution board. This will tell you if any of the power supplies have died. You can also test them at the power supplies as well, just in case the Power Distribution board has a problem.
--Scott

I was actually just starting to tear stuff off that board. And I will echo what many have said prior to me...THANK GOD for Scott D. Wading the waters with us 'buying folks' is simply awesome. And shows great character, as we can be very demanding. Not me, of course, but others. LOL

I'll see where this takes me. Thanks again.

#11089 1 year ago

Anyone had some funky ball trough issues? I had a 3 ball going, one drained, flippers go dead. two balls sat in the reactor kickout till ball search, then when i drained to the final ball it was still in 2 ball, when that drained i had to open the door and bump the kickout plunger, i guess to tickle the trough switches and get it to recognize all the balls drained.. i'm thinking maybe some junk in the trough.. but don't see anthing in it or on the base of the cabinet. really weird.

#11090 1 year ago
Quoted from Kneissl:

Anyone had some funky ball trough issues? I had a 3 ball going, one drained, flippers go dead. two balls sat in the reactor kickout till ball search, then when i drained to the final ball it was still in 2 ball, when that drained i had to open the door and bump the kickout plunger, i guess to tickle the trough switches and get it to recognize all the balls drained.. i'm thinking maybe some junk in the trough.. but don't see anthing in it or on the base of the cabinet. really weird.

Yeah check your trough switches. They are not working correctly. Easy fix though.
--Scott

10
#11091 1 year ago

Joining the club here guys. Can't wait to get my 1 owner original production game.

I played one at Pinfest Newcastle here last year, and out of 95 odd games, it was the only one i came home wanting.

The single level and other simpler games are what gets me going, if i have to study and memorise rules, it just takes all the fun out of it for me.

This game is pretty, and fun. It was advertised here this week and there just happened to be a space in my lineup, so it's on it's way.
I think it will slot right in.

348907913_987849529040983_1229195543079652224_n (resized).jpg348907913_987849529040983_1229195543079652224_n (resized).jpg

#11092 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

Joining the club here guys. Can't wait to get my 1 owner original production game.
I played one at Pinfest Newcastle here last year, and out of 95 odd games, it was the only one i came home wanting.
The single level and other simpler games are what gets me going, if i have to study and memorise rules, it just takes all the fun out of it for me.
This game is pretty, and fun. It was advertised here this week and there just happened to be a space in my lineup, so it's on it's way.
I think it will slot right in.
[quoted image]

I am waiting for mine as well. Very psyched.

#11093 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

Joining the club here guys. Can't wait to get my 1 owner original production game.
I played one at Pinfest Newcastle here last year, and out of 95 odd games, it was the only one i came home wanting.
The single level and other simpler games are what gets me going, if i have to study and memorise rules, it just takes all the fun out of it for me.
This game is pretty, and fun. It was advertised here this week and there just happened to be a space in my lineup, so it's on it's way.
I think it will slot right in.
[quoted image]

Glad to hear! Building a nice spooky alley. There are a few pinsiders with most, if not all of Spooky games. I've got 4 and wouldn't mind added 1 or 2 more, just got to make room. I agree about deep rule set memorization... Enjoy.

#11094 1 year ago
Quoted from zebpin61:

Glad to hear! Building a nice spooky alley. There are a few pinsiders with most, if not all of Spooky games. I've got 4 and wouldn't mind added 1 or 2 more, just got to make room. I agree about deep rule set memorization... Enjoy.

I agree as well. Trying to play new games on location for average players is mostly an attempt to see how the game plays, shoots, theme integration, yada yada yada.

Attempting to beat these games is not an attempt. Example: playing Foo Fighters has been a lot of fun, but I have no idea of all what needs to get done for each objective/mode. Too much todo and remember for this one game.

Simplified games with replay ability appeal, hard to master play games is nice to squeeze into a collection.

TNA hits many notes for me.. I have yet to beat the game and still enjoying it.

I’m also glad my 6 year old daughter has TNA as her favorite out of my collection.

#11095 1 year ago
Quoted from zermeno68:

I agree as well. Trying to play new games on location for average players is mostly an attempt to see how the game plays, shoots, theme integration, yada yada yada.
Attempting to beat these games is not an attempt. Example: playing Foo Fighters has been a lot of fun, but I have no idea of all what needs to get done for each objective/mode. Too much todo and remember for this one game.
Simplified games with replay ability appeal, hard to master play games is nice to squeeze into a collection.
TNA hits many notes for me.. I have yet to beat the game and still enjoying it.
I’m also glad my 6 year old daughter has TNA as her favorite out of my collection.

I have a Gorgar and a Godzilla. The Gorgar is bare-bones. Simple. Godzilla is great and fun but took a LONG time to learn, and REMEMBER, the rules. I had money and space for one more. It was TNA or FF. Foo Fighters, while fun, is so close to Godzilla I felt like TNA was a perfect piece between Gorgar and GZ. Not only do I agree about the rules, but I also feel like I hit the ball and then it's out of my hands for a quite a long time until I get it back. Or sometimes not get it back.

TNA is a perfect fit between my other two.

#11096 1 year ago

Deadpool was my first game and i still don't really know how teamup's work or try to achieve them.

I love playing Alice, but i don't know any of the rules, i know there are rooms, and monsters, but all i know is how to start a mode and what shots most of them need. I also know how to start multiballs.

I like games like Tron and TWD as examples of simple ruled, hard to beat games. I believe this game (though i don't have many games on one) will be along those lines.

Would look nice next to Pulp Fiction too!

#11097 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

Deadpool was my first game and i still don't really know how teamup's work or try to achieve them.
I love playing Alice, but i don't know any of the rules, i know there are rooms, and monsters, but all i know is how to start a mode and what shots most of them need. I also know how to start multiballs.
I like games like Tron and TWD as examples of simple ruled, hard to beat games. I believe this game (though i don't have many games on one) will be along those lines.
Would look nice next to Pulp Fiction too!

There's not too much to this game. Lite the 3x3 grid, shoot the scoop, go to the upper playfield until critical, then hit the Destroy targets. Lots of cursing in-between

If you like 80s SS fast and brutal games, you'll love TNA. Also, external sub is a must. The built in sub is good but it rattles the glass and I can't recall if the CE has the sub box (I think it does).

The external sub doesn't rattle the glass and sounds cleaner overall.

#11098 1 year ago

I haven't even put anti rattle tape on Alice yet, it's a rattler for sure.

Really looking forward to getting it. Thanks for the tips

#11099 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

I haven't even put anti rattle tape on Alice yet, it's a rattler for sure.
Really looking forward to getting it. Thanks for the tips

Is this about TNA or Deadpool? Im not familiar with Deadpool at all.

#11100 1 year ago
Quoted from tedwasright:

Is this about TNA or Deadpool? Im not familiar with Deadpool at all.

The post you quoted was a reply about TNA rattling glass and i was referring to Alice Coopers Nightmare Castle rattling glass, assuming it was a similar rattle.

Deadpool was nowhere to be seen in that post.

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