This is what the other side looks like. Do you see what I mean by the raised art? What should I do?

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Here is the same problem in the right slingshot. Not easy to get pic of. But I’m almost positive that is why I’m having paint chipped away.

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Got the lighted siderails. Is the installation pretty easy/straightforward?

that is strange and not normal. Spooky TNA pfs are nearly indestructible from my experience.

I would reach out to Charlie/Spooky with those pics.

Yes its quick and easy

Exact same issue on mine near the scoop, except more scuffed up (and the scoop side damage was also present upon receipt - though it doesn't matter as this scoop gets destroyed very quickly). Pretty disappointed. Mine arrived last Saturday. Playfield was heavily scratch up with swirl marks everywhere - whoever is waxing these playfields before shipment is using an abrasive cloth. White wax remnants all over the place. And then this. I hate to rag on Spooky because I really like the game but I figured a small boutique shop would do better than this.

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Last Saturday?! Less than a week?
Yikes!
Mine is coming soon and appreciate the line picking up steam, but this doesn’t look good at all.

Can’t tell from pics, but it seems early on the posts in this area will need to come out and mylar down.

You see this, I have #314 and this right here is peeling off and I have seen other pics that look identical to how mine looked. This is how it started.
We need a Cliffy Protector real bad.
-Mike

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Yes sir. Like I said, mine arrived with much of that damage already there. And if they're going to put that many games in on it before shipping you'd think they'd have caught the fact that my upper flipper was binding and sticking up most of the time. But I digress.

I can appreciate Scott's attempt to put a Mantis style protector there but it sits too low (to make the shot easier to make) so it does not protect the hole much. Ideally, if a mfg is going to do factory-cliffys, what would be proper would be to design a cliffy that has a down lip around the whole protector. The mfg then grooves a thin channel around the hole that the down lip fits into, thus totally eliminating the issue of the cliffy lip being raised slightly higher than the pf. In this scenario it would be perfectly level with the pf.

Those look bad. I have #163 with hundreds of games on it and don't have anything like that, neither at the scoop or the post. Mine looks like it came straight from the factory. Hope you can get it worked out. This might be a byproduct of trying to get games out the door too quickly.

Let's get some machine numbers to see when this started. Born on Dates.
-Mike

Eh, I’m still going with over tightened posts on an not fully cured playfield.

Bummed this can’t be fixed.

My game has this as well at the post. So your saying that's the only post they over tightened on the game? Multiple people are seeing this on games. How could they of planned for that? I get what Charlie is saying. That post takes a beating. Sucks that it happens but what are you going to do. I installed a thin piece of rubber pond liner underneath that post to absorb some of the shock and cushion the blow. So far so good

The beating doesn’t help. But I posted pictures of it happening in 3 different areas. One is the lowest post on a sling.

are you sure it if not from too loose of a post? rather than too tight?

Seems like damage from a ball rocking the star post on angle due to being loose? With the speed of TNA, I have found you need to be sure to check for snugness of posts every so often.

Definitely not. It’s aloose like they are sunk beneath the clear.

I received my game a week ago, and all but one of the mylar circles have come loose and been destroyed by normal light play. Was there improper installation of the mylar (many people here say the same thing happened to them), or does this solution only work for a few days? I don't want to waste everybody's time and money ordering and installing these if it's just going to fall off again in a week.

I have attached a photo of what it looked like before I removed the mylar (top of the right-slingshot). The only one I have left is the bottom of the right slingshot.

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We aren't charging anyone for them... and we cut the size back after we found this after a month of play to make it better. I got over zealous after initial tests were good and tried to make them too big. Now they are just a tiny bit bigger than the post itself so they stay trapped. If you push the post in the direction of the impact it's going to take THEN tighten, it helps a ton too. We didn't learn that immediately.

And yes... it is possible a new worker over torqued, clear wasn't cured long enough, etc etc etc... so many variables it's silly. We also noticed it's ONLY where T-nuts go, which does allow those posts to shift a bit. Our boards are so dense now that T-nuts are a bit silly anyway, so ... they're gone. Even if the mylar is temporary, it will give the clear more time to cure and forces us to double check the assembly to make sure they aren't over torqued. Both good things.

Notice you're not seeing significant wear in front of the scoop or the normal places tons of travel would make it happen. It's shifting posts "digging" ... and I hate it ever happened.

Regardless... it has been acknowledged, addressed, and not ignored. We bust our asses to get these boards the best anyone can make them... and we've already adopted what we learned here as well.

Glad my 6k can go towards a good lesson learned

#361 Arrived today

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Congrats! I hate to ask, but how does underneath your posts look?

I'm sorry if I was too blunt in my questions before, I definitely don't want to accuse you all of ignoring issues/etc. We all see the games getting delivered in this thread, and that's one of the biggest statements a company can make.

I'll email KT about ordering a set of mylar rings and give that a shot.

I wonder if flat metal washers sized the same as the mylar could help disperse the energy, or if it'd just dig into the playfield. It'd need to hug the screw to not move around, I guess.

I still think we can work out a better solution than throwing some gummy worms under the posts. Maybe the metal washers, but I’m afraid those would sink too and just cause a bigger problem.

How much is a new playfield that I can let cure properly in my home?

I think a carbon fiber washer just barely larger than the diameter of the star posts would be the best solution. It would discreetly cover the damaged paint and keep it from getting worse. These would need to be cut by someone like Cliffy who did a larger type solution for magnets on TWD.
What's a little more disconcernig is that the paint is actually peeling up under the clear coat. So these playfields are not silk screened I gather? Are they some kind of film print that then gets clear coated?

How does this rank amongst you more experienced TNA players? Only had mine for 5 days so not sure if this is good enough to post.

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I got 2 seconds thanks to a multiball

I'm curious if running a dehumidifier in the gameroom for a few days would help? I'm not sure "how much is enough" though, just as you stated.

If I did a factory reset, would that clear all my audits or just the settings and high scores?

Most clear coats chemically cure. Time and temperature are biggest factors. Humidity is not as relevant.

See post #2919

I am having a problem with my 4th player display keeps showing all 8s. 8 can get it to go away by playing with the connectors on the displays but it keeps coming back. Do I need new display connectors?

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Could be the connector or the Maxim chip on the back of the display. If you wiggled the connectors and it comes back alive, definitely look at that as being the issue.

I really do love the machine, with that said can we get an uncleared playfield to send off to Ron Kruzman?
The playfield in my machine isn't gonna last a year I can tell already.
-Mike

Not much to brag about but started (and defeated about half of) reactor 5. My personal best so far.

Sooo awesome! Adrenaline!

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In no time at all, we have gone from Spooky having the best playfields in the industry to allegedly the worst. Not sure what to make of this.

I’m not saying the problems aren’t real. Mine is holding up pretty well, and I didn’t even notice the Mylar rings rippling under my star posts until after this was brought up. Not sure I’d have noticed them otherwise. I will contact spooky for the new replacement Mylar rings to be sent out. Also noticed the left of my scoop has some clear that appears to be cracking, presumably from “steel ball meet playfield”. Not too happy about this, but if it makes the scoop easier to hit i might be ok with it. I mean, come on... my IJ mode start isnt as bad at this at rejecting solid shots that should be staying in. Thinking a cliffy is definitely needed... but also wondering if it will make hitting it even harder?

The mylar circles on my game are not staying put I played 20 games and the circles are pushed out. Maybe my game was one with too large Mylar.

Should I reach out to KT or my distributer god new ones?

This felt appropriate. Also, Sorry.

Heading up to "Lyons pinball" on Sunday. The owner Kevin was kind enough to sell me his walking dead fish tank topper at a reasonable price! He has a TNA and I plan to check it out along with a few other new games. I'm excited to check it out and we'll check back later with my opinion.

recently played Dr John's TNA - cool game, nice work Spooky.

for the clear coat new the posts could you install a thin wide washer that is still a little smaller that the post diameter under the post. Most washers when stamped have slightly rounded edges on one side and a sharp cut edge on the other - you could put the slightly rounded edge face down to the playfield. Then being a bit smaller in dia and rounded may reduce the obvious clear / art damage.....

I'm having issues with the ball leaping off the playing field at speed. The ball has drained a few times after leaping over the lanes.

Anyone else having this and can advise what can be done to alleviate it?

@kingcool I don't get that on mine. is there a pattern or is it just generic?

Haven't seen that on mine either. How steep is your playfield?

I’ve had this only in Multiball.

Does anyone know where I can find the manual online??

I've never seen a manual for a Spooky machine. I don't think they ever made one.
-Mike

Here is a link to Scott's page with documentation, code updates... http://www.scottdanesi.com/?page_id=783

Just play with bending your scoop slightly. Up ordown can fine tune it to be the right amount of difficulty for you. You should always be ale to hit the orbit and dro in from the back side also.

Finally got around to installing Hooked’s lit rails (and removing all the factory gunk from the side rail protectors). Sexy time!

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I've set the playfield to approximately the recommended 6.5 degrees. It seems to happen frequently when the ball is thrown by the bottom right kicker; the ball is thrown over into the left-hand drain lane.

I don't think there's a manual, but there's lots of documentation online about the various circuit boards:

https://www.multimorphic.com/category/circuit-boards/
https://www.aaeon.com/en/p/up-board-computer-board-for-professional-makers

I don't know what operating system the CPU board runs - does anyone know? Is it Linux?