(Topic ID: 195784)

Total Nuclear Annihilation Club...Welcome to the future!


By Pinballlew

2 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 6,840 posts
  • 506 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by joelbob
  • Topic is favorited by 200 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,075 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

DAD43FAE-7FB4-4EF9-B858-C0415412A49D (resized).jpeg
358E396E-F8C0-41A9-90E9-B6045518B542 (resized).jpeg
giphy-downsized.gif
20200527_201329 (resized).jpg
IMG_9068 (resized).jpeg
20200526_171705 (resized).jpg
51X+nMkpnpL._SL1001_ (resized).jpg
shopping (resized).png
6cm 12v fan (resized).jpg
BC9021B7-4011-45A8-967C-016D1A72A9CB (resized).jpeg
20200516_175116 (resized).jpg
20200510_114848 (resized).jpg
20200510_110829 (resized).jpg
13A834AC-7357-4C55-AB0F-D615C57C00E7 (resized).jpeg
rgbCLAMP (resized).png
f900268df5b8b61a2546a83a95fcb208 (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

22 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items. (Show topic index)

There are 6840 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 137.
#2401 2 years ago
Quoted from Chosen_S:

It looks bitchin, could you have the factory default to this?

Unfortunately, I have nothing to do with the factory.

#2402 2 years ago

I just trimmed mine to the circumference of the screw holes and put it directly behind the grill. Looks better to me.

89C75A93-A075-414A-8867-58DAA9D84E86 (resized).jpeg
Install note:
The only design problem with this current kit is that the smaller left piggyback board extends the original connector too far out and creates a cramped space for the wiring harness against the back of the speaker. So be careful when putting the speaker panel back in the groove. You might have to re-seat that small left connector again since the back of the speaker will try to grab the connector’s harness and force it down as it is going in.
As others stated on previous page, be prepared to use your dremel with the new standoff plates. The notch for the led wires is too damn small.

#2403 2 years ago
Quoted from NimblePin:

I just trimmed mine to the circumference of the screw holes and put it directly behind the grill. Looks better to me.

Winner! winner! Chicken dinner!

#2404 2 years ago

What's the best tool/method to adjust the sensitivity of the standups, they are way to hard to activate. I tried my leaf switch tool on some and needle nose on others, but neither worked too well. Or different foam???

Also, thanks goes to the post above mentioning the dual leafs on the left flipper button. Mine was factory adjusted so they both activated at exactly the same time. Fixed that and can now cradle lower left and flip upper at same time.

#2405 2 years ago
Quoted from herg:

Not really. Stock, you have the speaker panel, the mesh, the original spacer, then the speaker. The new spacer sits on the back of the speaker panel and extends into the hole, so the mesh can't sit between them. You could put the mesh between the new spacer and the speaker, but the tweeter extends past the speaker mounting surface, so the mesh would end up touching the tweeter. The mesh is just a soft plastic weaved material.
Here are a couple of pictures that might help clarify things. I didn't take any of the back side, though.

I guess the part where I got lost was there originally being some sort of spacer there from the factory. As I said, I don't have a game and from the install pictures / instructions it never mentions removing, or there being, a spacer already there. I just thought it was the mesh behind the panel with the speaker on top of it.

From the pictures I have seen...I think I do like the mesh being between the back of the light rings and the front of the speakers. That is what I expected as I think the mesh being lit up and visible in the back lit area looks cleaner, less cluttered and better (in my opinion) than having the speaker lit up back there.

The picture with the mesh cut and directly behind the new grill also looks good and may diffuse the light a bit, but I prefer the mesh in the back myself.

#2406 2 years ago

Is TNA a good game to have if I plan on playing single-player only, and are code updates focusing on single player-mode? When I read the reviews, I just see the only real negative comments being about repetitive play and single-player mode fun-factor?

#2407 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Is TNA a good game to have if I plan on playing single-player only, and are code updates focusing on single player-mode? When I read the reviews, I just see the only real negative comments being about repetitive play and single-player mode fun-factor?

I have never cursed so much at a game or my gameplay as I do at this machine, and I love it. I play at least 95% of my games single player. I'm not a great player (OK, I'm not even good), and have only owned machines for a few years, but I can't see it being any more repetitive than any other machine. All the many mode, long ball, wizard modes, ramps, subways and such machines still only have so many different things to shoot at. Is it fun to steal balls from other players? Oh hell yeah that's fun, but it's also fun just trying to beat the machine and make your own multiballs. Bowen and others makes it look easy, and honestly when locks are lit it's not that hard if you can get control of the balls, the hard part is after multi-ball ends making the 7 shots to relight the locks, load them up, and start multiball again without missing a shot because missing on either side of the lock lane leads to a drain very quickly. It definitely has made me work on skills I had neglected/ignored, and find myself using them more on other machines as a result.

That's my thoughts on it.

#2408 2 years ago
Quoted from DugFreez:

I got lost was there originally being some sort of spacer there from the factory

There are 2 versions of the 3D printed speaker mounts. 1 that comes with the game and a new one for the lighted speakers that has a bunch of delicate extrusions coming off of it to help hold the LED light strip in place.

#2409 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

clean the contacts, maybe it got a little bit of manufacturing oil on it or something. Clean with a business card.

This did the trick. Thanks!

How about how to lighten up the amount of ball force to register all the standups?

#2410 2 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

This did the trick. Thanks!
How about how to lighten up the amount of ball force to register all the standups?

Just get a switch adjustment tool and bend the leaf a bit

#2411 2 years ago
Quoted from audihere:

What's the best tool/method to adjust the sensitivity of the standups, they are way to hard to activate. I tried my leaf switch tool on some and needle nose on others, but neither worked too well. Or different foam???

When I adjusted the gap on mine to be a little more sensitive I also hand pressed the targets in hard repeatedly to break in the foam, and that seemed to help.

#2412 2 years ago
Quoted from davijc02:

Just get a switch adjustment tool and bend the leaf a bit

My leaf switch adjustment tool's gap is only wide enough for one leaf. It wasn't working real well for me on these switches for some reason.

#2413 2 years ago
Quoted from Aurich:

When I adjusted the gap on mine to be a little more sensitive I also hand pressed the targets in hard repeatedly to break in the foam, and that seemed to help.

That could definitely help, this foam is super resilient.

#2414 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

When I read the reviews, I just see the only real negative comments being about repetitive play and single-player mode fun-factor?

I think a lot of people saying that prefer 'deep' games--games that can have pretty long ball times (compared to TNA and many late 70's/early 80's SS games). The street-level layout and lack of many modes and toys leads people to assume it has little replay value outside competitive play. My collection is primarily early SS games. I play them myself quite often, and i sometimes prefer to bc i can start another game right away after getting my ass handed to me.

As always, it's really gonna boil down to what kind of pinball you enjoy playing solo. Deeper games are great for solo play because they have goals that may take 15-20+ minutes to reach. Consequently, those games can be poor choices for multiplayer since a good player may have a 5+ minute long ball, which i often find results in less engaged opponents (they might just start a game on another machine or start playing with their phone etc)...

Quicker SS games typically have much shorter ball times (many have no ball save either, contributing to those short ball times), which i think tends to keep people more active in multiplayer games. Short ball times = everybody plays more frequently. That, coupled with rule sets that are easy to grasp, makes competition (and even spectatorship) more enjoyable for everyone, including non pinheads.

Does that mean TNA is only a good multiplayer and LOTR (as an extreme example of a deep game) is only good solo? Of course not. It's all a matter of taste. I love my SS games and TNA is the first NIB i plan on buying bc i love that style of gameplay. I wound up with primarily SS games in my collection because i could never afford the higher-priced deeper games. In result i wound up finding a greater appreciation for older, easy to learn/hard to master type games. Now that i can afford a deeper game, I'm going with TNA bc it's deep for a SS-style game. I expect it'll be great for solo play bc i can challenge myself to blow up all 9 reactors. It'll be great for competitive & cooperative multiplayer too (based on feedback I've read so far).

So ultimately, it's a lifestyle choice.

#2415 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

I think a lot of people saying that prefer 'deep' games--games that can have pretty long ball times (compared to TNA and many late 70's/early 80's SS games). The street-level layout and lack of many modes and toys leads people to assume it has little replay value outside competitive play. My collection is primarily early SS games. I play them myself quite often, and i sometimes prefer to bc i can start another game right away after getting my ass handed to me.
As always, it's really gonna boil down to what kind of pinball you enjoy playing solo. Deeper games are great for solo play because they have goals that may take 15-20+ minutes to reach. Consequently, those games can be poor choices for multiplayer since a good player may have a 5+ minute long ball, which i often find results in less engaged opponents (they might just start a game on another machine or start playing with their phone etc)...
Quicker SS games typically have much shorter ball times (many have no ball save either, contributing to those short ball times), which i think tends to keep people more active in multiplayer games. Short ball times = everybody plays more frequently. That, coupled with rule sets that are easy to grasp, makes competition (and even spectatorship) more enjoyable for everyone, including non pinheads.
Does that mean TNA is only a good multiplayer and LOTR (as an extreme example of a deep game) is only good solo? Of course not. It's all a matter of taste. I love my SS games and TNA is the first NIB i plan on buying bc i love that style of gameplay. I wound up with primarily SS games in my collection because i could never afford the higher-priced deeper games. In result i wound up finding a greater appreciation for older, easy to learn/hard to master type games. Now that i can afford a deeper game, I'm going with TNA bc it's deep for a SS-style game. I expect it'll be great for solo play bc i can challenge myself to blow up all 9 reactors. It'll be great for competitive & cooperative multiplayer too (based on feedback I've read so far).
So ultimately, it's a lifestyle choice.

Good info. thanks!

#2416 2 years ago
Quoted from frunch:

So ultimately, it's a lifestyle choice.

Indeed.
My tried and true gauge for “modern” pinball is, If my frozen Screamin’ Sicilian Pizza gets burnt while I’m still on the first ball, out goes the machine.

#2417 2 years ago

Has anyone ever solved that loud ass fan issue ?

#2418 2 years ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

Has anyone ever solved that loud ass fan issue ?

Yes. But it requires the disassembly of the power supply. Not trivial.

#2419 2 years ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

Has anyone ever solved that loud ass fan issue ?

Yup, volume setting to 11 usually does the trick.

#2420 2 years ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

Has anyone ever solved that loud ass fan issue ?

This is super odd to me as the power supply in my game is not loud. Maybe some of the supplies are louder than others? I have 3 of these supplies that are all about the same loudness and all 3 of them are quieter than Ghostbusters when it powers on the fan. There are other, more expensive fanless supplies that you can get that were posted earlier, but they would be way too expensive for production.
--Scott

#2421 2 years ago
Quoted from TheNoTrashCougar:

This is super odd to me as the power supply in my game is not loud. Maybe some of the supplies are louder than others? I have 3 of these supplies that are all about the same loudness and all 3 of them are quieter than Ghostbusters when it powers on the fan. There are other, more expensive fanless supplies that you can get that were posted earlier, but they would be way too expensive for production.
--Scott

Any chance you can send a link ? Do you want me to post a sound clip ? I mean it sounds almost as bad as one of my asic miners

#2423 2 years ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

Any chance you can send a link ? Do you want me to post a sound clip ? I mean it sounds almost as bad as one of my asic miners

This is the one: https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MEAN-WELL/HEP-600-48?qs=QoFhu5%252bruIqHjrMEv470Qw%3D%3D

No need to send a video, Someone else did that too and it is tough to tell how loud it actually is.

#2424 2 years ago

Ok cool just ordered it. Also have you ever seen the ball slam into the side of cabinet after it bounces side to side right above the flippers?

#2425 2 years ago
Quoted from Ilushka85:

Ok cool just ordered it. Also have you ever seen the ball slam into the side of cabinet after it bounces side to side right above the flippers?

I have, turn down your sling power.

#2426 2 years ago

Ordered also.

#2427 2 years ago

It’s tempting to order the PS ahead of receiving my TNA, but I guess I should wait to see if I get a quiet one.

If enough people are swapping it out, it might be worth/nice if spooky offered to install it at the factory like some of the other options.

#2428 2 years ago

I doubt I will be able to hear the fan over the music.

#2429 2 years ago

Does anyone have a mouser link for the stock power supply? I'm interested to compare the specs.

#2430 2 years ago

It would be nice to have quite PS option from factory. I understand why they don’t go with it as standard if they need to reach a specific price point but like the butter or side art it could be a paid option.

#2431 2 years ago
Quoted from rai:

It would be nice to have quite PS option from factory. I understand why the font go with it as standard if they need to reach a specific price point but like butter or side art it could be a paid option.

I don't know enough about pins, but would the power supply in TNA not be similar to the one in my AFMrLE? I have never heard my power supply running... If the TNA is the same, than it is pretty quiet...

#2432 2 years ago

I guess I have listened to rock and roll music too loudly in my lifetime because I do not hear the power supply fan in my TNA at all.

#2433 2 years ago

It’s about the same as the new Sterns. Doesn’t worry me, but it’s definately noticeable when you’re not playing any games.

#2434 2 years ago

Before swapping the fan in my psu it was a screamer. With the game idle it literally gave me a headache.

$10 to swap in a quiet fan. It requires the removal of the psu and pulling it apart.

Buying a $210 fanless Meanwell works too. I prefer the $10 option.

#2435 2 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Before swapping the fan in my psu it was a screamer. With the game idle it literally gave me a headache.
$10 to swap in a quiet fan. It requires the removal of the psu and pulling it apart.
Buying a $210 fanless Meanwell works too. I prefer the $10 option.

Would be interesting to send the old fan back to Spooky so they can check if it's defective...

#2436 2 years ago
Quoted from bitpatrol:

Would be interesting to send the old fan back to Spooky so they can check if it's defective...

Yeah... in their free time!

#2437 2 years ago
Quoted from Pinzap:

Yeah... in their free time!

better now so it does not snow-ball and take up more time, shipping fans some complain are too loud and are replacing right-away on their own. This type of feedback is crucial to ensuring top quality, so I do hope they find the time to investigate this core piece of hardware.

EDIT: I'm not claiming something is wrong with the TNA fan, I have not gotten mine yet, but thought it was important to address this seeing customers are already swapping out the fan as a 'mod' and that part would usually be an issue for a company to address. My AFMrLE has no fan noise at all, but noticed the comparison was made to Stern and JPP which very well may have loud fans relative to others like CGC.

#2438 2 years ago

Sheesh, the fan is fine in TNA. The fans on JJP, Stern, and Spooky games are all loud while not playing, but they're not noticeable during play.

12
#2439 2 years ago

Here’s some pics for swapping the psu fan. You need to remove the psu from the machine. Open it’s case. Remove the screws from the PCB to free the fan. Cut the fan wire from the old fan. Solder it on the new fan.

About an hour of work. $10 in parts.

The mod cut the noise down by 80%. Now it’s great and not annoying at all.

C1A9F7A1-5590-4721-B254-995FBDFE6A8E (resized).jpeg
F9A4AD22-C70D-438A-AB89-9799673B80B9 (resized).jpeg
AE348EC4-04BA-4498-87F6-ECE88B33B47D (resized).jpeg
7BFA6A70-7A03-49E0-8910-4DB913027746 (resized).jpeg

#2440 2 years ago

Don’t the capacitors retain dangerous electricity to be careful of? What fans did you use?

#2441 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Don’t the capacitors retain dangerous electricity to be careful of? What fans did you use?

Not sure in this application, but you never need to go near the capacitor terminals or anything on the bottom of the PCB for that matter. Swapping the fan is a piece of cake and just takes a little time to remove all the screws.

I used the same fan, it's a Vantec Stealth SF6025L: amazon.com link »

#2443 2 years ago

I will also say double check the airflow direction prior to installing the fan if possible, or at least test it before button up the PSU with all its screws. I tried to match up the angle of the fan blades to the old fan and it ended up blowing the wrong way so I had to take it out again to flip the fan. Here is a picture of mine installed with correct orientation exhaust out towards the rear of the PSU.

20180427_185108 (resized).jpg

#2444 2 years ago

Usually (not always) if you look at the fan closely there will be arrows embossed in the plastic indicating the direction of airflow.

#2445 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Usually (not always) if you look at the fan closely there will be arrows embossed in the plastic indicating the direction of airflow.

Yes both the stock and new fan have arrows. Although reverse airflow will work ok.

The caps hold over time won’t be more than 10s. So no issue for shock.

But as you can see the mod is not for everyone.

I’m super happy with my quiet TNA now.

#2446 2 years ago
Quoted from crwjumper:

Usually (not always) if you look at the fan closely there will be arrows embossed in the plastic indicating the direction of airflow.

Doh - that woulda helped if I knew that! Either way I'm sure it would've worked fine, the air was still blowing out of the power supply, only through the gaps in the front screw terminals. I don't see this thing generating a ton of heat and the cabinet isn't hot either. Might even work without a fan but I'm not gonna risk it.

#2447 2 years ago

If someone could help me out with these measurements I would really appreciate it. Thanks!

TNA Dimensions (resized).jpg

#2448 2 years ago
Quoted from OnTheSnap:

Here’s some pics for swapping the psu fan. You need to remove the psu from the machine. Open it’s case. Remove the screws from the PCB to free the fan. Cut the fan wire from the old fan. Solder it on the new fan.
About an hour of work. $10 in parts.
The mod cut the noise down by 80%. Now it’s great and not annoying at all.

Is the psu difficult to remove from the game?

#2449 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is the psu difficult to remove from the game?

No

#2450 2 years ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

Is the psu difficult to remove from the game?

Just 4 screws attach it to the box. Then you need to remove the AC input and 48V output. I took pictures of the wiring in order to make sure I made no mistakes when re-installing it. The AC wires are a bit short, but overall pretty easy.

Make sure the machine is unplugged.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
$ 279.95
Lighting - Led
Pin Stadium Pinball LEDs
$ 50.00
$ 265.00
From: $ 40.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
From: $ 18.00
Apparel - Men
Pinside Shop
$ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Apron Envy
$ 17.50
$ 3.50
Playfield - Protection
Pinball Mod Co.
From: $ 59.95
Cabinet - Armor And Blades
Hookedonpinball.com
There are 6840 posts in this topic. You are on page 49 of 137.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside