(Topic ID: 222766)

Deadpool owners club. Free chimichangas for all.

By Ericc123

5 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

43 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #264 MODS: Disco Ball (for Pro machines) by Lermods Posted by Lermods (5 years ago)

Post #270 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Katana ramp shot troubleshooting Posted by chuckcasey (5 years ago)

Post #385 MODS: Tilt Graphics art blades - installed with photos Posted by jeep-mustang (5 years ago)

Post #414 RULES: Deadpool Rulesheet - 1.02 Posted by jeep-mustang (5 years ago)

Post #544 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Post Rubber wear Posted by HighProtein (5 years ago)

Post #638 Cliffy's - Installed with photos Posted by cpr9999 (5 years ago)

Post #646 Bright silver powdercoat for Katana Posted by Robertstone0407 (5 years ago)

Post #725 TECH: SOUND. External Subwoofer Hook-up Posted by _xizor (5 years ago)

Post #889 MODS: "HELLHOUSE" villains lair by The Mod Couple Posted by Yelobird (5 years ago)

Post #894 LIGHTING: Comet GI lighting upgrade - installed with photos Posted by Melhadmj (5 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#12381 2 years ago

Just joined the club. Picked it up last night and spent the day shopping it out. I tore the playfield down. Novus 2 then wax on everything. Polished the ramps. Washed all the plastics. Cleaned all the mechs (flippers were grimy and coil stops needed to be filed). Freshly waxed this game plays so amazing. Thanks to all in this thread for the little tech tips that I checked out while I had it all apart. I added a trough light and a 3D printed stand up target stabilizer on the SNIKT target to keep it in perfect alignment while everything was in pieces. This pin is a real pleasure to shop out. It’s a great design. Loving this pin.

3D printed target stabilizer
1344B354-0EED-47CF-A452-8144A8461F8E (resized).jpeg1344B354-0EED-47CF-A452-8144A8461F8E (resized).jpeg6C3D7F93-7062-4EFC-93E8-2F316E560D99 (resized).jpeg6C3D7F93-7062-4EFC-93E8-2F316E560D99 (resized).jpeg

SNIKT in the right spot
B78F3698-B211-4168-AB69-F7A734889C4E (resized).jpegB78F3698-B211-4168-AB69-F7A734889C4E (resized).jpegB3FF3277-44AA-4BB7-A536-3D63CEA0702F (resized).jpegB3FF3277-44AA-4BB7-A536-3D63CEA0702F (resized).jpeg

Coil stops before filing
A7FADF22-2234-488E-94C4-3DDE2B9B7FE0 (resized).jpegA7FADF22-2234-488E-94C4-3DDE2B9B7FE0 (resized).jpeg

Left flipper done, right to go
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Torn down to clean and wax
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Ramp polish
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Shined up and ready to play
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#12383 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

Yeah it's some kind of pinball Mandela effect. I think specific orientation is the key.
[quoted image]

I used that same 8” in my JDJP, although I wired it differently. That’s a dual voice coil speaker, and you are only driving a single voice coil that way which might be a little wonky…

Mine is set up so it is wired in series, and has 8ohms impedance in that configuration (2x 4 ohm voice coils)
C4213646-7EA4-4A07-B87E-8C7B14AC10C3 (resized).jpegC4213646-7EA4-4A07-B87E-8C7B14AC10C3 (resized).jpeg

#12386 2 years ago
Quoted from RobF:

You have yours set for series wiring, so it is an 8ohm load. I think you should also try single 4ohm like I have mine and see if the stock amp pushes more sound out of it. The car amp that I am using is perfectly fine at 4 and even 2 ohm (parallel dual coil config), but I don't have a need. Single channel 4ohm output is more than enough for me. Not connected in the picture is my fourth channel wired to the second coil.

I always thought driving a single coil of a dual voice coil speaker was a no-no
https://www.bestcaraudio.com/do-i-have-to-use-both-coils-on-my-car-audio-subwoofer/

#12394 2 years ago
Quoted from Purdue:

For what its worth, my dp premium did not come out of the box with that parallel alignment. It was angled. I noticed it and adjusted it straight. It made the SNIKT shot much more difficult and the game less fun. So i put it back how it came and i'ts wonderful. Not sure what the design intent is, but i know which angle i prefer.
Great job on the bracket reinforcement!

I was going by the key post on here where George Gomez indicated how the target should be. When I got mine it was pushed way too far back. I think it makes it easier to make that way rather than in the intended position. If it’s in your home set it up however you enjoy playing it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/92#post-5300308

#12397 2 years ago
Quoted from HighProtein:

I juuuust put one of these in my Austin Powers!

It’s a great speaker for the price.

#12421 2 years ago
Quoted from Lateralus:

I have art blades on my premium, but I'm seriously considering switching to mirror blades as I have them on another pin and I absolutely love them.
I can take off the art blades and install mirror without issues, right? Never done that before and would like to know anyone's experience if they've done so.

The Stern ones can definitely be removed, I don't know about 3rd party ones. I've gone the opposite way and removed mirror blades and put on art blades. It's all personal preference. I like mirrors on older pins. I like OEM art blades on the newer pins. I also like that you don't run into clearance issues with art blades.

#12453 2 years ago
Quoted from J85M:

Absolute game changes in my opinion

Sure does. Wolverine is actively blocking your spinner now

1 week later
#12587 1 year ago
Quoted from fooflighter:

I run a ring of hot glue around the bulb, then press it into the reflector cone and hold about 10 seconds...does no damage...can be removed later with a little force, looks clean, and keeps a solid contact connection. I think the OPMAX bulbs work best for DP and I only use one spot per sling. The pics below are from the SunLight Comets replacing the entire factory GI red bulbs andusing 2 OPMAX spots...no Pin stadiums and you can see the entire playfield very well
[quoted image][quoted image]

If anyone wants to not use glue to keep their bulbs secure in their spots, you can get get a retainer wire from Marco. Same thing Stern uses on their factory spots.

https://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch?SEARCH_STRING=Retainer+wireform+reflector+LED

retainer wire LED (resized).pngretainer wire LED (resized).png

#12602 1 year ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Anxiously awaiting my NIB pro...
So what better to do than order some mods and read...
The plastics at the top of the playfield that have characters on them , I have seen some machines with them as actual figures.. Any idea which ones and where to get???
Thanks in advance - looking very much forward to this..

The premium has figures in place of the plastics. I have the pro, and I have the say the plastics are actually pretty nice. I have no plans to replace them.

#12608 1 year ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Why do you prefer the plastics??

Personally, since this is based on the comic art, I think the flat plastics that use the same art look better and tie to the overall the theme. I don't like mixing and matching artists withing a game.

It's all a matter of preference. Do you best Marie Kondo and go with whatever "Sparks Joy"

#12674 1 year ago
Quoted from Rizmo:

I sure hope they retire the game after this run. Along with Stranger Things, Iron Maidenx, Star Wars, GOG, Beatles. Let them get all caught up on all the back orders. Then they can pump out their future new releases. I think a game should have a 3 year window being made before they retire it. Then just say hey this is the last run for this game before its retired.

If they still sell well and the license is still available, I don’t see why Stern would stop making a particular game.

#12713 1 year ago
Quoted from Eskaybee:

It makes perfect sense to swap out AIQ sound package. It makes no sense to do so for Deadpool.

I agree 100%

That said, after a couple of months I ended up putting AIQ back to stock assets. The only sound mod that has stuck around for me is for GOTG. That one significantly improves the game, and has kept me from moving to the latest code update.

#12777 1 year ago
Quoted from PunishersLEMC:

Special eaker lights getting installed tomorrow ..

Tell me more about those special eaker lights. They sound scarey

#12857 1 year ago
Quoted from Flyer666:

I have one and use as a topper ....looks great

I have one too. Only problem is that it wobbles as it moves around and can fall off. It could use a weighted base, neodymium magnets, or Velcro since you still need access to the on/off switch on the bottom. Because of that, mine sits on a shelf near my machine. I didn’t want it falling as I try to slap save a ball mid game.

#12913 1 year ago
Quoted from Medic:

Is there suppose to be a black rubber ring on the outlane posts? If so where can I get them from? Pics from Deadpool, and one from my other game showing with it.
[quoted image][quoted image]

if you want them, you can get them from titan pinball. They are 3/8" OD rings.

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#12942 1 year ago
Quoted from Fire1st:

Hi. I got an IM from George Gomez himself as I had the same piece fall off my back ramp. It is a piece that keeps the ramp optos aligned. Very hard to put it back into place on the rear ramp but I was able to remove the habitrail and some surrounding pieces to be able to hold it and attach the hex standoff back on. Hope this helps [quoted image]

Now that’s service when you get the game designer to answer your tech support questions.

#12954 1 year ago
Quoted from J85M:

For me it’s official art blades everytime!

Same here, I like them but these are really my least favorite Stern art blades. I will keep buying Sterns though because they are made from really nice thick and durable material and they are easy to apply. I pull the playfield and use some harbor freight clamps to get them lined up where I like then pull the backing. Works perfectly every time with no help. These also can be removed and repositioned without issues.

33EDA186-0E7D-458A-8742-0EBE338C71E9 (resized).jpeg33EDA186-0E7D-458A-8742-0EBE338C71E9 (resized).jpegD83216FE-D100-49C8-84CA-1D7D026FD919 (resized).jpegD83216FE-D100-49C8-84CA-1D7D026FD919 (resized).jpeg

#12956 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

I like my WizBlades!

What is the material like on those? I like the look of their JP ones in the home pin.

#12957 1 year ago
Quoted from Sleal16:

Oooo, I like this clamp approach

I tried painters tape before without much luck. This worked really nicely, holds it in place perfectly, and the plastic clamps don't mar anything.

#12959 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

That’s how I did my first few sets of art blades, but found the wet method will let you slide the blades if needed and didn’t need clamps in my case when do doing later sets.

I do the wet method for replacing the decals on the outside of the cabinet since they are a lot thinner and they can stretch if you pull too hard.

Inside you can get away with the dry method. When I did my first art blades on GOTG I did the dry method and I think I pulled them off and moved them 3 or 4 times each. No issues at all.

#12963 1 year ago
Quoted from joelbob:

Where do you guys suggest buying mirror blades?

I had good luck with Cointaker for my old Capcom. I don't actually like them on new Sterns though. I gave away the ones that were on my AIQ when I got it.

#12966 1 year ago
Quoted from joelbob:

You don't like the look or the fit?

Little of column A, little of column B. I don't like that they can get scratched and see fingerprints.

I just prefer the art blades that are done by the same artist as the rest of the game. If those aren't available (older games), then I like mirror blades.

Quoted from punkin:

Deadpool needs all the lighting in the center it can get. Mirrors help with that.

Trough light helps a bunch. More than I would have thought.

#12971 1 year ago

When I shopped mine out when I first got it, I slapped an led strip in the trough and swapped all the GI lighting to sunlight 2smd from comet. No issues seeing the playfield. I bought some the matrix system spot lights but didn’t end up needing them.

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#12981 1 year ago
Quoted from Foo:

This may have been addressed earlier, but does anyone make a magnet cover up for this decal? Like the one for Rush... Thx
[quoted image]

This?
https://wizardmod.com/products/deadpool-pro-pinball-magnetic-wizpanels

1 week later
#13097 1 year ago
Quoted from livetowin:

Just took delivery of a nib pro from the recent run and am getting node board not responding notices on boards 1, 7, and 9.

Are you powering it on with the coin door open?

#13103 1 year ago
Quoted from Flipnaught:

Must have mods such as protectors etc.?

Quoted from ItsBwalt:

So any must have mods?

Quoted from arcadem:

Can anyone suggest any other 'must have mods' and what "preventative measures should I implement once I get it?

Quoted from cscmtp:

Also are there any must have mods for this?

Quoted from FatPanda:

Any must have mods that I should get?

Quoted from Huggers:

Any must have mods I should know about?

Quoted from Flynnyfalcon:

What are the must have mods?

Quoted from PinPickle:

DP pro FINALLY on its way. Any “must have” mods?

Quoted from Mr_H:

Does anyone have some must have mods for a DP?
I'm adding a shaker and I think mirror blades(from some of the pics in this group, looks awesome), although I was origianlly thinking art blades...I'm not sure. Any other little mod that are a must have?
Cheers.

Please use search. This has been answered a bunch of times.

#13114 1 year ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

No need to apologize!

I could have quoted punkin 's response last time someone asked about "must have mods"

Quoted from punkin:

For fucks sake. Scroll up.

To be fair, a quick search on 'Mod' on here gives you 275 posts with pictures. Saves the thread from being all about pop bumper caps and how the disco ball on the pro doesn't work right when every new owner gets their machine delivered.

#13119 1 year ago
Quoted from awesome1:

I don't use kits, but I do use Comet 2 SMD frosted bulbs. (Opmax in the spotlights on the slings) On my Deadpool I am actually using a mix of sunlight and cool white. I usually use all cool white, but like the look of sunlight on Deadpool, but all sunlight was a little too "yellow" for me, so added some cools to bring it down a little.

I wait for Comet to have their black Friday sale and buy the bags of 50 when they are cheep(er). I had enough on hand to swap out the reds for sunlight white 2 smds. I like the look, not too cool, not too yellow.

I did the same thing on my Jurassic home pin, but then had to go back and add the reds back in when I realized that they are controlled separately from the white GI, and I was missing out on a cool effect with raptor multiball. DP doesn't seem to have that issue.

#13161 1 year ago
Quoted from Soulstoner:

Found this guy rattling around after delivery. Any idea how to reattach? I can’t seem to figure it out.
Location is the backboard lighting.[quoted image]

It's press fit so I wouldn't bother trying to reattach it. I would just order a new one.

1 week later
#13238 1 year ago

I just had one of the legs on the microswitch snap off for the hell house hole. It seems like any of the VUK switches on Marco and pinball life are out of stock. Anyone know where I can find a replacement?

#13254 1 year ago
Quoted from J_Striker:

Anyone else done any powder work on their premium? I am getting mine soon and looking to see examples
[quoted image][quoted image]

Search the thread for 'powder' or browse the gallery. You'll find a bunch.

#13266 1 year ago
Quoted from Purdue:

Anybody seen this type of plug in a node board. This is on my 2021 premium in the apron node board where insider goes…
Is it just a dummy?[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

It’s a terminator.
“Terminator is a device connected to one end of a bus or cable that absorbs signals”

#13268 1 year ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

I just had one of the legs on the microswitch snap off for the hell house hole. It seems like any of the VUK switches on Marco and pinball life are out of stock. Anyone know where I can find a replacement?

As I grew impatient waiting for a replacement microswitch for the hell house scoop, I remembered I had some of the old buttons from an arcade 1up cab I modded, and those have micro switches. I was able to swap over the P shaped switch arm and it installed without any issues into the game. The tension is greater than the stock ones, but it’s fine for a scoop. I wouldn’t use it on a roll over switch.

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#13274 1 year ago

.

#13276 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

Playfield protector?
[quoted image]
[quoted image]

LOL! I blame the Nyquil I just took. My brain isn't working lol

#13282 1 year ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

It’s a terminator.
“Terminator is a device connected to one end of a bus or cable that absorbs signals”

Quoted from revoke:

It's interesting it's not mentioned in the Premium DP manual but I found it listed on the Led-Zeppelin manual: (terminator plug 045-5315-00). Guess Stern hasn't updated the manual for the Insider connection.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Called it. Back in high school (in the 90s), we used twist off the terminator from the secretaries office computer and bring down the coax network they used. That’s probably some sort of cyber crime these days.

#13289 1 year ago
Quoted from revoke:

Lol that's hilarious, good ole bus topology. Always had a kid in our group that would slightly pull out the SCSI terminators to try and mess with the printers but not make it visibly obvious it was a cabling issue.
Don't think there's a need for a terminator on RJ45 unless you're running some other type of signal over the cable (which I doubt is happening here.) Out of curiosity I emailed Stern technical support to ask about it and they confirmed it's just a filler plug to protect the port from damage/debris. Beats a rubber insert that could fall out from playfield vibration/movement.

SCSI is pronounced “Scuzzy” for all of you too old/young to to have enjoyed getting to make innuendos about dirty scsi ports back in the day

#13297 1 year ago
Quoted from yemons:

I noticed in the Stern Insider achievements there is a section for Wooly Mammoth. Anybody know how to get to a Wooly Mammoth in the game? I don't believe I have ever seen it.

I just checked my IC account since I knew I had it
80643288-BAAD-490C-BBF9-AE149563C214 (resized).jpeg80643288-BAAD-490C-BBF9-AE149563C214 (resized).jpeg

#13305 1 year ago
Quoted from kell:

Waited almost a year and finally got my DP.
Foam insert missing and it matters.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Oof…

At least it is hidden behind the leg until you can get a replacement cab.

#13311 1 year ago
Quoted from mostater:

That absolutely sucks and I'm sorry it happened to you. I hope it gets resolved quickly.
As a question to anyone in general...if this happened to you, would you simply want an entire cabinet replacement or would you be satisfied if a $ amount was refunded to you? If the latter, what $ amount (or %) would it take? I don't know how much it would cost to repair something like that, if even an option.

I would absolutely take the money and run. Easy cosmetic fix that no one will ever see

#13320 1 year ago
Quoted from JPloof:

Good old stern quality control. Getting protectors on and examine playfield before I really dive in. Coin door was only attached with a single bolt, so one trip to the hardware store already. Now I’ve noticed a loose long screw on the sling and found the culprit. I don’t know the exact name for this (is it a tnut?) or the size, so hopeful someone can point me in the right direction before I head out.
[quoted image]

Check the bottom of the cabinet. You can see by the tine marks that it was hammered in place at some point

#13383 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Here is the full blue theme on a premium (armor/t-molding)
[quoted image]

Looks like an X-men Wolverine edition now

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1 week later
#13468 1 year ago
Quoted from Xelz:

My DP is now a year old and more than 1,000 games on it Still loving the game as much as day 1, and it keeps putting a smile on my face.
It’s also time for big round of routine maintenance, too. Anything specific to DP that I should check beyond the usual (e.g. replacing coil sleeves, inspect stops, change battery, etc.)?

I would clean it, inspect the mechanisms, and swap some rubbers, but I doubt it needs a major overhaul or parts replacements after only 1000 games. I have heard of some people who had issues with coil stops failing unusually quickly, and others who add washers under the ball guides if they are damaging the playfield, but that's about it. Mine has over 5000 games on it, and it's still not in need of a major overhaul since it gets regular cleaning and inspection.

Home use machines tend to take far less of a beating than routed games. Even so, modern Sterns are quite durable.

#13503 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

Just my opinion, but I think pop rivets look like shit and that is right in your face as you step up. to each his own.

big-lebowski-the-dude.gifbig-lebowski-the-dude.gif
#13537 1 year ago
Quoted from Oleboy:

Hello, I know this issue has been beaten to death, but I'm having problems with my snikt target. It registers great when it is in a similar position to the examples in previous posts, but after a game or two it shifts over closer to the wolverine shot ball guide and stops registering effectively on made snikt shots.
I can easily scoot it over and it works great for a game or two before taking some slams and shifting over again. My question is regarding the anti lean brackets mentioned. Will that fix my literal shifting? I just noticed it mentioning "sway" but like I said, I can completely shift it either direction with little force, and wanted to see if that was a different issue altogether.

I 3D printed a target support. After 500 games, it hasn’t moved out of place yet.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/3d-printing-sharing-thread-lets-better-the-hobby/page/39#post-6884065

1 week later
#13618 1 year ago
Quoted from Bundy:

Unfortunately common, Stern has been cheaping out on switches, coil stops and hole protectors for some time now.
When it breaks that far in it cannot be soldered either.

Had the same issue with my VUK switch. They are considered a wear and tear part, but most distros can help you out getting replacements.

Quoted from KneeKickLou:

Do Booms actually do anything during a battle? I was playing this morning and I had three booms built up, I was on ball 3 of a not particularly good game and started a battle with Mystique. It was my last battle to finish so I say hey I'll just use my booms killer her and play Sauron. I hit all three booms and it maybe took her health down about 25%.
Seems like Megalodon is the best place to use booms as it registers one of the 5 shots you need to make. T-Rex is ok also but with everything lit and having to make 10 shots total Meg is the bigger bang for your boom.
Also does anyone know if Booms can collect Super Jackpot in Ninja multiball? I feel like I had that lit in a game with a boom ready hit the boom and it was still the only shot lit. I couldn't look at the LCD to see what was awarded.

Booms will never complete a mode. That’s pretty standard across games that have similar features

#13621 1 year ago
Quoted from bigguybbr:

Had the same issue with my VUK switch. They are considered a wear and tear part, but most distros can help you out getting replacements.

Booms will never complete a mode. That’s pretty standard across games that have similar features

Quoted from KneeKickLou:

I know they wont complete the mode but I figured they would take off more damage than that for 3 of them ¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Depends on which shot is lit. If you didn’t hit the spinner at the beginning of Mystique I think it would just hit for a spin, so low points if you use it that way.

#13674 1 year ago
Quoted from Smack:

Loop pass! Not quite an answer to your question but I find the ball can exit that orbit with a lot of speed which makes it tough to control. So I generally loop pass over to my right flipper which is pretty safe and repeatable.

LOOP PASS! Where has this shot been all my life?!?!

I just tried it out. Makes Mando 1000 times easier than what I was doing trying to half ass live catch and wind up in the slings more often than not.

#13703 1 year ago
Quoted from Jedi_Gill:

I'm genuinely curious why they put blue one on this pin when it's clear Black would have been the way to go.

They are only manufactured in blue. Maybe that’s why PL calls them “Blue Nubs of Death”
https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-bnod-blue-nubs-of-death.html

I think with how thin they are, it would be a challenge to make them out of silicone without them shredding very quickly. The blue rubber might be more durable than red or black rubber (there is a difference)

That said, JP home pin uses a thicker black nub rather than the thin blue one.

#13733 1 year ago
Quoted from theun4gven:

Just updated to 1.07.0 and I noticed I no longer get Extra Ball lit after banking 10 weapons. Went through settings and couldn't find this anywhere. I've hit Mechsuit MB since then so I know some weapon related things are working. Anyone else seeing this or have an idea how to troubleshoot?

Isn't EB after 30?

***Edit***
I was wrong, it's 25

from tilt forum http://tiltforums.com/t/deadpool-rulesheet/4311#heading--extraballs

Extra Balls:
Extra Ball can be lit at the scoop by:

Collecting 25 weapons
Collecting 50 Ninja Stars
Rare mystery award

#13751 1 year ago
Quoted from Mr_H:

Good work, so did I. I may have also asked about adding impossible mode and some sort of half shell challenge like on TMNT. Impossible mode has been great for me when playing family members (on TMNT), evens out the skill levels. And half shell is just super awesome, makes people play more pinball who wouldn't usually. A guy can dream! Anywhoo, he read and liked the comment - fingers crossed we get the end sequence update anyway.
Damn I love this pin!

Impossible and half shell are Dwight specials. Not sure it would make it here

#13754 1 year ago
Quoted from Smack:

Coop/team modes would also be great. When those first started coming out I was hopeful most games might get that feature back ported. Sadly not the case.

Those are also a Dwight special feature. It was cool when I had TMNT, and now that I have a Mando it's fun when playing with others especially of different skill levels.

1 week later
#13816 1 year ago
Quoted from smokinhos:We're close enough to compare HUO playfields with and without a protector. I'm not a fan of them and I know you like them. I have a premium DP. Pics after 250, 500, 1000 plays? Its going to take me a while to get to that many plays, but I am curious what they will both look like. Btw - great pics and info! DP is awesome.

I think you would need to go out to 5000-10000-20000 to start to see anything major, and in home use for some people that’ll take 20 years. Modern playfields are surprisingly durable if they get cleaned regularly and balls get changed out, so I personally don’t go with protectors for home use games. It changes game play to solve a playfield wear problem that in home use probably isn’t an issue.

Also I know I’m not the only one here who thinks the plastics on the pro are really well done. I actually prefer them to the premium figures.

#13828 1 year ago
Quoted from Av8:

Stern playfields are soft especially new. I love the smoothness and gameplay. I use a little Orange Glo 2 n 1 furniture polish on the protector and my ramps. Brings it alive and cuts stops scratches. No wax needed. Fresh PFP on a new machine $$. Just about as good a pinball experience as you can have imo. Give it a try. After 1000 plays my pf should still look new.

That’s definitely an unusual approach, especially using an mineral oil based furniture polish on your playfield and ramps. I’ve used spray furniture polish to clean my cabinets, and it works great for that, but it’ll never go on my playfields.

The ball tends to slide rather than roll on playfield protectors which changes gameplay in a way that I don’t enjoy, so they are just not for me. I prefer to use a high quality carnuba wax (that doesn’t leave a white residue) and change the balls regularly to keep my machines protected, looking good and playing fast.

After 5000 plays most any well maintained game should look as good as new.

#13859 1 year ago

.

1 week later
#13904 1 year ago
Quoted from livetowin:

Playing the game tonight and the scoop stopped registering. Tech alert says CE tee device malfunction and the coil pops up the post. Any help appreciated.

I had the micro switch for the scoop die on mine a while back. One of the solder lugs came off completely. Sounds like it is a pretty common wear and tear item on this pin

#13914 1 year ago
Quoted from NoSkills:

Has anyone had any issues with game freezing and then resetting on newest code?

Happened once when it was in attract. Hasn't happened since

1 week later
#14017 1 year ago
Quoted from livetowin:

Curious what you did here. Mine broke as well and the replacement switch from Marco doesn’t have a long enough arm to activate the switch and it’s supposed to be the replacement for the original. [quoted image][quoted image]

You can actually separate the sides of the micro switch pretty easily with a small flat blade screwdriver and reuse the original switch arm. I did that as a temporary measure when I had another micro switch with a different actuator just to get it back up and playing.

2 weeks later
#14129 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

Hip breaker.
Welcome to your bruises.

You’d be lucky if it’s just your hip

#14131 1 year ago
Quoted from punkin:

We tend to walk past a row sideways, i get complaints if i don't put IJPA on the end of a row in a corner.
Fuckin' gun just bit me.

8160B17A-8DD5-4119-BC85-6749C7FA0F9C.gif8160B17A-8DD5-4119-BC85-6749C7FA0F9C.gif
#14135 1 year ago
Quoted from northerndude:

What's the capital of Thailand?[quoted image]

4E0F4B3C-E4C8-48D9-80D7-8D7463155FC0.gif4E0F4B3C-E4C8-48D9-80D7-8D7463155FC0.gif
#14138 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinball-Obsessed:

Order 1 and a couple more for spares.
ive had a couple break on mine.

Same. This seems to be a frequent issue on these. I had to replace mine. I'm temped to glob some hot glue on those contacts to help support them going forward.

#14141 1 year ago
Quoted from Boat:

Pro owner, I am having bad ball hop during the transition between the return guide and flipper. I already tried adjusting the guides to no avail.
Anyone look into getting metal return guides or have another suggestion?
Something like Cliffies product ?
Or maybe I re order some new plastic red ones?
https://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

What are you using for flipper rubbers? The thickness might be causing an issue

#14155 1 year ago
Quoted from MrTilt:

Fyi
Received my DP Pro a few months ago
The playfield has to be the best ive seen
Best clearcoat and no dimple what so ever
ive bought over 15 new Stern and by far this playfield is immaculate
Looks like Stern have improved their playfields

I think the dimpling has much more to do with the luck of the draw with which sheet of plywood your playfield was printed on. Since it is a natural material, there is a lot of variation of the actual hardness. If you had a spare playfield and tested it, you would probably find that it varies quite a bit over the whole surface.

pasted_image (resized).pngpasted_image (resized).png

I think it also helps that Deadpool is well designed in that there aren't a lot of dead on stand up targets that create air balls and ball hop.

#14158 1 year ago
Quoted from newovad:

Shoot for the SNIKT shot during mech suit when the ball is launched from the scoop. I’ve had the loudest ever glass hits on this machine. Plenty of dimples to prove I’ve played my game.

Did you put a target stabilizer on the SNIKT target? I've never had that issue and I've nailed that shot many times.

#14161 1 year ago
Quoted from Smack:

Have you seen that video from the Slow Mo Guys re pinball? Regardless of the noticeable airballs there are a lot of micro bounces that can happen in regular play.

The biggest airballs I tend to get are off of the posts on Lil Deadpool however I have Super Bands on these as they are extremely durable but they do have extra bounce.

Oh sure, micro bounces are going to happen, but not glass slappers. Play AIQ and you will have some crazy air balls. Deadpool just doesn’t have a lot of those shots that generate a lot of air balls.

#14162 1 year ago
Quoted from newovad:

I'm shooting for SNIKT and the scoop launches. The balls meet in the middle and who knows where the hell they end up. Nothing to do with target because the ball never makes it there.

Ahh I wasn’t understanding that you were talking about ball to ball collision. When you said shooting for the SNIKT shot, I assumed you mean you were getting air balls off the target

1 week later
#14187 1 year ago
Quoted from Smack:

It's pretty lack lustre. I was expecting a bit more and sadly I didn't get my phone out in time to film it all. There is a short "Regenerate" animation « Spoiler! Click to reveal.of Deadpool getting hit on the head with a brick »and I am not sure if anything else was added to Mr Sinister's ending.
I can't seem to put a YouTube link inside a spoiler tag so if you don't wanna see it, don't play this video

I had never noticed that, and I finally figured out why!

My left out lane roll over microswitch wasn't working. I haven't had a ball save on that out lane for a while.

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