There is a setting that automatically reduces the backbox lighting when a game starts. I don't know if it will help in your situation, but it did for me.

Just joined the club.. I waxed the playfield, modded the machine with mods from this lovely site, and I still yet to play 1 game.. LOL I'm so excited for tomorrow when I level the machine and play.

To be fair, I wasn't planning on not playing but I realized that the Premium comes with the inserts of characters not installed.. I installed those, then noticed a few quality issues, installed ninja stars, Ninja Handle, Chimichanga truck, Hell house, The 3D printed bullets by the top left and right ramps, Start button, Coin Slots, I just kept going.. Hoping it actually works when i turn it on LOL. Modding is really fun actually.

ya, i had to set GZ similarly..this feels a bit different, but i'll be adjusting it either way

They aren't installed because the premium has the figurines instead. Did you install the cutouts as well or did you not get the figurines?

I see only Wolverine and the the Disco lady on the left as a figurine. I had to install the Deadpool plastic on a Hammock on the left ramp, Collossus plastic in the back center and some lady by the Kitana blade on the right. I think this is normal correct?

I didn't bother installing any of the plastics in mine, but the right way to set it up is "how you feel like doing it."

That being said - you should make sure the hammock plastic isn't blocking the spot that's attached to the Dazzler figure from shining on the disco ball.

I think Gomez has said that they chose to leave the hammock plastic in the coin box because they felt like it blocked some of the disco ball... I opted to attach it on my premium as well since I don't think it noticeably blocks the disco ball, and I also think it's a fun "almost interactive" decoration. I did leave the "Pro" team-up characters (plastics) in the coin box.

I think the reason the character plastics (Colossus, Domino, etc) are in the coin box on the premium is just so they aren't mixing figures and plastics on the playfield. It's cool that they included them with the premium though!

Just unboxed yesterday
Now i know what all the fuss is all about
Best game in collection !

Alright, I joined the club and opened it up today and have three observations:
1) HOLY CRAP THERE'S EXPOSED SCREW HEADS IN THE PLAYFIELD! I mean, I guess they're supposed to be there, and they're recessed, right above the apron. But I haven't seen a modern Stern (my last being TMNT) have this. Is this common now?
2) It's the first NIB Stern I've seen that needed nothing upon opening. Kudos Stern! Or, what good luck!
3) The flippers are angled down a bit. I know I've played some games that I always see them like this, and I figure maybe (just maybe) they put them like this from the factory for a reason on some pins. But as of this moment I hate it. Is this just my pin, or are others arriving like this? And, is there some mystery benefit in Deadpool to have them like this?

Edit - oh yeah, re: #2: Blown sub. Forgot about that. Rattles horrible. But other than that...

Easier to hit the standups. Orbits are good that way too.

Also... It's been common with the cab sub sounding like it's blown actually being the mesh screen that's there. Try removing that mesh first and see if that removes that blown sub effect.

Very true, the mesh rattled on mine. I stuffed a few thin strip of Sorbothane between the mesh and the cab (from the outside) and the rattling went away.

I adjusted my flippers up a few degrees, so the tops are even with the ball guides. I know it goes against Gomez’s design but it makes ball control easier and increased my enjoyment of the game tenfold.

I look forward to your downvotes.

Thanks for the heads up. When I gently put my hand on the cone the rattling stopped, so I'm pretty sure it's the woofer. My TMNT had a glass rattle that sounded like the woofer rattling, so I know it can be hard to pinpoint sometimes.

Dude, if you like them pointing practically straight up or perfectly horizontal, more power to you. It's your pin. Someone downvoting your preference would be dumb (but not entirely unexpected).

Finally got round to making up a new disco ball, fiddley little things glueing on those mirrored squares so they are straight!

Can see why Stern decided to just throw some of them in a bin of mirrored pieces and see what sticks

Will post something shortly, as I am looking at making this mod a disco ball and lighting upgrade but with something else additional too. But first sorting out all orders for Deadpool apron plastics as they where a little more popular than I imagined so working through pms for those in batches of 5 currently.

Check your sub just to be certain the cone is intact. Mine arrived crushed and ripped on one side, and I didn’t notice until I removed it to install the PinWoofer sub.

I immediately ripped out those trash paper speakers Stern uses and upgraded to Flipper Fidelity. Must have “mod” for any pin honestly.

Alright, my Katana lock isn't working properly. The pin that goes up into the katana to lock the ball seems to not be going up far enough (see pic). If a ball whips through there it just jumps the post. The pin seems to be triggering properly, going down and popping back up in the test if you gently roll a ball into it. The coil and spring seems to be fine underneath. Is the pin somehow too short? Did the tip break off? Is there some other reason it's not extending all the way into the katana, if that is indeed the problem? It didn't work the first few balls, then the last 40 games it worked perfect, then it's missing many locks now.

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Just imagine that somewhere, some poor soul has the job of gluing those mirror bits on a ball to make the disco ball.

Rob

Similar thing happened to me on my TMNT. Most likely the plastic post is sitting or just touching the playfield causing it to stick. Just unscrew (a couple of 1/4 rotations of the screws holding it in place, circle in red) the whole part under the playfield, shift it slightly so the plastic post is centered to the playfield hole and not touching the playfield sides at all and then tighten. Should do the trick.
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Hey all, I just got back home from the Southern Fried Gaming Expo and set up my Deadpool Premium. It powers on and plays nice, but when I opened the coin door to adjust the volume I get:

48v disabled close coin door or pull interlock switch to restore power

I have scoured the internet and forums and all I get are people complaining about removal of interlock switches back in 2016....WTH do I have to do in order to adjust the volume? Or access the menu? Am I missing something simple? I am frustrated that for 9k you can't simply adjust the volume without help. Where is the interlock switch I need to pull?

Use the buttons on the inside of the coin door

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You should be able to get into the menus just fine with the 48v message. That interlock switch is there to kill that voltage at the coils so you don't get shocked. There have been a few reports of late run games with problems on their service menu switches. If they aren't working at all, try reseating connectors. If that doesn't work, get in touch with your dealer to get the parts sourced.

Also, I played your game, it played pretty great!

Got a temporary topper while i decide what i want to do permanently for my DP pro

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I felt under the left ramp and sure enough this bracket was dangling from the last thread on the screw. New machine about 50 plays. Tightened it and the screws on the hammock plastics which were also loose. Thank you guys on the forum for saving me some frustration if it had fallen off!

I felt under the left ramp and sure enough this bracket was dangling from the last thread on the screw. New machine about 50 plays. Tightened it and the screws on the hammock plastics which were also loose. Thank you guys on the forum for saving me some frustration if it had fallen off!

Ty newovad

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Joined the club last week(premium) and got it will setup over the weekend! Great game! I got all the stern mods and put in the better speakers.

What are the must have changes, mods for this game? Main thing I want to do is make the handle of the katana nicer looks like some people wrapped it with something?

there's a few katana handle mods in the pinside shops, i'd recommend starting there for modding that. i assume by "all the stern mods", you have a shaker motor? if not, that's pretty high on the list, as well

Yep, I got shaker, art blades, shooter, starts, rails , topper LOL

Thank you for the reply. The buttons are there but nothing happens when I press them...any of them. I am going to try and reseat connectors.

Any tips on disconnecting this piece? Is this the right piece to disconnect and reconnect to get the menu buttons working? It seems impossible. I don't have child size fingers! WTF!

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Okay, so apparently this is the 7th issue the dealer has been made aware of this MONTH!! He said to jiggle it and hold the buttons down....and that worked...kind of....I am now emailing Stern for a replacement part. Starting off with a bad taste in my mouth, Stern!!!!!

I appreciate the info but I don't think you understand my problem, or I don't understand your solution. The pin moves freely up and down, and when the pin is fully up the balls often just roll right over it. I'll hit the ball with the flipper, and while it's enroute to the katana I'll look inside and see the pin is up. Then the ball just hits it, bumps over it, and keeps rolling.

Check out this post as it sounds like they had a similar issue with the katana lock. Could be a missing washer in the assembly.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/deadpool-owners-club-free-chimichangas-for-all/page/218#post-6563290

Yeah, I saw that post but that's not it. If you look at my pic of the coil, you'll see it looks fine (as far as I can tell).

Based on that pic you have below the playfield, I wonder if the post that was put in is the wrong one. That post should be about half way into the katana handle when raised. Here is a link to that part...https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/515-7350-00 The entire length should be ~5.5". It will require some disassembly, but maybe compare that length to what is in your machine?

It is possible that the top may be clipped off a bit. Kind-of hard to tell, but mine does seem to be a bit more tapered at the top and not as flat.

Well, you and Mr_H got me onto what appears to be the solution. I pulled the coil and post out and it appears to be the correct length at 5.5". But inside the katana it -was- slightly off center (see my katana pic). When I reassembled it I made sure was dead center, and so far it -appears- to have fixed the problem. We'll see!

do you have a link to what you ordered?

Mine was the exact same. I just loosened the entire coil bracket and shifted it, and the up post moves far more free now. Mine would sometimes get caught by friction on the hole through the PF and never return fully upright (though like you mentioned, it seemed to be fine and sometimes a ball would roll over it, or 2 balls would come out at once at the beginning of Ninja MB as it got stuck upon moving). I will say though that the post still only extends like 40% of a total pinball's height. Thankfully no more skip overs though.

Oh, and to your other flipper angle question, we often call these "drooped flippers". Same can be found on other games, often Gomez and Trudeau (DP, BM66, Mustang, GB... plus the stupid flipper gap to boot, and TWD though a Borg). Designer choice. Makes forehand shots more powerful, but makes backhands less available and I think a bit weaker as well. But it does make hitting the Hell House scoop very easy from the left flipper on my machine as it never rejects.

Sweet, sounds like what I mentioned might have been it? On TMNT there is a post up the back, which stops the ball. The posts don't have much strength or the coil doesn't not sure. But it seemed like the smallest part of friction or touching the edge of the playfield would stop it from going all the way up or down. In my case it wouldn't go down.

No, it was going up and down fine and unrestricted. If you look at the pic, you'll see there was space all around the post. I think it was just slightly off center, which gave the ball a tiny bit of extra room to jump over the fully extended post. But your comment did cause me to look at it even closer, so thanks.

Hav had this problem since delivery a year ago, thanks for the help fixing my game !

Hey, has anyone had this issue with their VUK's miniature switch? It seems to have just completely broken during a fairly aggressive mech suit multiball and I'm assuming I'll need a new one. Also, this happened within the first two months of ownership so it should be covered under some sort of Distributor or Manufacturers warranty right?

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They break all the time. Replaced mine 3 times all ready. get use to it. order your self like 3 in case of emergencies. Made in china i think!

No, but that has happened to me on other games. Talk to your distributor as you said. It should be covered, but, if not, they aren't too expensive. You'll need to put your soldering skills to use, though. Ahh...the joy of pinball ownership.

Well, I always wanted to learn how to solder. I guess the time is now.

Nothing to it really couple YouTube videos and some trial and error you’ll be back in business.

If you are going to solder, couldn't you just solder the tab back on the switch?

My DP PRO is on the path to 50k on location.
Stern should give awards for plays on location milestones?