I'm not sure about the rattle, where does it start rattling?
I may have a weak shot That doesn't make the orbit but I don't recall any rattle on that orbit.

same code.You have the right one it will say LE after You choose Premium.It is The Way

I'm guessing most of us allow the automatic update downloads over Wi-Fi. AFAIK that eliminates D/L'ing the wrong file. I'm working on my update now. Since I play infrequently I don't leave my machine on after I complete a session. Today as soon as I turned it on and went to Update Software I saw that it was already in the process...

I'm probably thinking too much, but it happened about an inch or 2 above the top flipper and then came back down. I hit the ball hard and fast both times , all the other times it was smooth and went into the drums.

Is anyone noticing drop targets behaving oddly?

Maybe Im unclear how the rules work for these.

My targets won't reset between games. I would think at the start of each game they would start UP.

After a switch test coil cycle I get them to pop up without error.

I play a bit then notice they aren't popping up anymore (not even on a new game start)

Am I missing something in the rules or is this a software bug?

Sounds like a hardware bug, of the intermittent variety.
They should definitely be up on a new game start.

Yeesh. How can I test for that? All the menu tests show it working without issues.

I just made that assumption based on what you said that sometimes they pop up and sometimes they don't. So if the switch tests are passing then the times when they don't pop up is the only time that there's an issue.
If they don't pop up At game start, that might be the best indicator that something is not working right and I wonder if at that moment can you immediately go into diagnostics and do a test and get a failed result? Because at the start of the game if the drop targets stay down that's definitely a failed result You can visually see that.
I'm really just trying to help with the logic of agreeing with you that you have a problem. If it was a software problem It wouldn't be just you that sees it. If it's a hardware problem then it could be unique to you which I think it is unique to you.
Is there some vibration under the playfield can you check all the wiring going to those drops and follow them for any loose or crimped wires or a zip ties that are too tight and maybe have broken a wire internally? Similar to Node 10.. pull that playfield up and do some tracing and investigation is probably what I would do first.
There are veterans on here that may have a wiser better opinion on this situation and what to do.... But I didn't read that you did any kind of wire tracing or under the playfield investigation yet, so that's where I'd start.

I've been testing all day with glass off and on. Let me try to articulate some better details.

First, this isn't new. I've semi noticed this since Day one.

The game works. Play after play. The targets function as they should (as far as I can tell). They reset to up at new game start ect. They go.up amd down according to the rules ect..

Then boom. At a game end with them down they fail to pop back up at new game start and there they stay until I cycle the coils.

I'm not 100% sure but I think it's software and related to draining on ball 3 immediately after hitting the targets. (When the lanes are all flashing white). I think the game is losing track of them.

Trying to repeat and test but it's working again now (of course).

If this is not software what would I look at next?

With the code 1.12, I noticed that the Far Cry lock difficulty has changed. The default was: hit both targets on the side of the right ramp. Now, you also have to fire a shot up the right ramp before you can “lock a ball in the top scoop”.
Easy enough to change it back:
Go to Rush Feature Adjustments and toggle to #45. Adjust it down to “extra easy”.
(And if you’re like me…you’ll STILL hear a celestial voice saying you suck!)1B012FFD-D9FE-442F-BB07-CFA6DD16BDF9 (resized).jpeg4E7EBF7D-FB29-4E07-BB30-1B1A3D0E215A (resized).jpeg

That was always the out of the box behavior... targets, then ramp, then scoop.

Yeah, I see that now. I think I did the “install home” a year ago, and version .91 is when it defaulted to “extra easy”.

New game start. Targets down.

Is this correct?

The more I test it the more wonky it seems. I've done everything I know how to do. All connections seem correct no visual problems. If I cycle the coils they will work a bit then stop.

The problem is the game ships without code so I dismiss it. Then the code is confusing so I don't fully know how they are SUPPOSED to function in the first place.

What are the shots that would pop them up? Right now they are down and nothing I hit on the PF pops them up. The game appears to think they ARE up.

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During the normal course of play, all the shots light up with a white arrow to get the targets to reset. It's essentially every ramp and every loop will pop them back up.

Does anyone know if there is a setting for ball save time related to the Time Machine ejecting the ball SDTM? I know there's a setting related to the scoop ejection ball save time, but I can't find one for the Time Machine.

Can that be interrupted/delayed by any modes?

The last time I saw it flake the sequence was callout "hey geddy the time machine is ready.. target got hit callout "bass" then the next thing hit was the time machine. Mode/multiball started. Targets remained down. Wouldn't come back without a coil cycle.

I've really inspected the dropdown area well. Nothing looks out of place. I've reseated the connectors checked for loose ect. All looks good there

Anyone have any other suggested things I can look at to find the gremlin? The machine is testing perfect.

Maybe email [email protected] ?

Last resort. Hehe. Im about there though.

I just got 8 games no issues then I rage hit start while the game was still tallying end bonus and they didn't pop back up at game start. Coincidence or did I cause it miss its reset somehow and confuse it. I dunno.

Coil cycle fixes it a few games then it flakes.

I've never seen an intermittent coil. They either work or not in my experience. Bout ready to start randomly trying shit.

Try reflowing the solder joints on the drop target assembly. In other words take a soldering iron and touch solder points and heat up and let cool

They might've snuck some new callouts in there with the latest update, heard one I hadn't before during Red Barchetta MB...

Well hats off to both of you! I love this game and the updates are awesome!

My one lingering pet peeve is that on draining during a mode, the mode section of the display immediately changes to show how many records left to enabling the Time Machine again. I would love to see how much progress I made on the mode when I can finally look up at the screen. The screen updates as the next ball goes into the shooter lane so if possible it would be so cool to show mode progress until that happens. Doesn’t affect game play though of course.

Have you done a "switch" test as well as "coil" test? your coil could be working fine, but one of your optos may not be working correctly.

Mine NEVER flakes. Since ver 0.8x I can't imagine it's software.

Good point. There's a little plastic "flag" on the back of the drops. It breaks a beam to indicate it's down. Possibly check those in test. Check the wires aren't cut or connectors loose. And email Stern! They're gurus at helping. pic of opto board below
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Yeah, there has been a lot of mention of coil tests but nothing on switch tests. If the machine doesn't think a target is down it often won't attempt to reset the bank. The way the problem has been described the pattern still seems... unusual. But the target position sense optos is where I would heavily focus on first, starting with switch tests.

The 1.12 topper code is cool. There are several different album light animations that occur. Eg. When Mystery Award is brewing the albums all flicker at different times. Cool. When it tallies up the bonuses they do various chase patterns etc. Mostly they still show what you've been awarded. Looks nice. I also had a really good game last night (for me). Ended up just over 605M but got 344M on first ball. I love this game!!!

Not a new callout but my favorite is when Freewill multi-ball starts and Geddy says “Careful, you’ll get kicked in the face.”

This is correct - just a business card thick shim will keep the ball from sticking on slow rollers!

Matt

The drop targets don't reset during any multiball. When you go back to single ball play then you'll see all shots flashing white, shoot any of them to reset the drops.

The purpose of this behavior is to avoid a ball getting stuck behind them - they will only reset during single ball play and when the game knows that ball is elsewhere and not behind the drops.

If you don't see those white flashes in single-ball play, then the game doesn't know that all the targets went down, so check the optos. If you do see the white flashes and shoot one and the targets don't reset, then it's a coil problem that isn't firing to reset them.

This 100%, I always look at the scene just as my ball drains and curse when the progress display is already gone. It's way to fast, it shouldn't change till after the bonus collect screen.

OK, so I have been away for a bit, but wanted to give an update on my Rush Topper Lighting system!

You might have noticed that I stopped selling them a couple of weeks back. The reason for this was a minor issue with the spot I had chosen to pull power from in the cabinet. Long story short, I screwed up and didn't realize the LED strip and controller that I use for the mod pulls more power than their spec sheet claims. I took the time and expense to redesign the mod to connect to the power distribution board in the backbox and sent out upgrade kits to everyone who had already purchased the mod. (If for some reason you were one one these original purchasers and were unaware of this change or didn't receive your free upgrade kit, please message me through Pinside so I can fix you up ASAP.)

So now that I'm caught up and have a good hold on the power design for the mod, they are back for sale on the Space Coast Pinball Pinside shop. As mentioned this mod connects to CN6 on the Power Distribution board. If you already have a mod on that connector, I would suggest purchasing a 12 volt mod power supply from the Arcade Upkeep pinside shop along with this lighting mod. They have a great mod power supply for SPIKE machines. ( https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1233-arcade-upkeep/03119-power-supply-kit-for-mods ). (Edit: Splitters like sold at Lermods work great with up to four lower power mods on CN6 and in fact I use one in my Rush.) I do not suggest using a splitter on CN6 with *this mod* unless the other mods pull very little power. You can feel free to message me for advice.

Before and After (resized).jpg

Power board (resized).jpg

backbox location (resized).jpg

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1312-space-coast-pinball/08649-rush-topper-lighting-kit-with-remote

Bump for a great mod! Thanks for doing this John!

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This is not correct. A 4-way splitter like ours is perfectly fine to use on cn6. Do you know how much power is available at cn6 to say that? Cn6 provides 2 amps of power, which means you can safely use up to 80% or 1.6a. I’ve had people run 4 feet rgb undercab lighting and illuminated backbox mods with no issue and in all these years we’ve been making lighted and motorized mods, never has a single issue been reported. There is also 12v at the coindoor, which runs bill validators. If you can run a bill validator, you can certainly run extra lighting or a motorized mod there too. Not sure why your topper mod is pulling so much power, maybe it’s the leds you are using, ours uses almost nothing.

https://lermods.com/products/rush-pinball-topper-lighting-mod?variant=45191501119810

You can add a splitter for $12.95 or buy standalone for $17.95.

https://lermods.com/products/4-way-stern-spike-splitter

Yes it is fine if the devices combined pull less than 2 amps. I have a splitter on my CN6 because the other mods pull almost no power. This lighting mod including the controller pulls around an amp which is half of the CN6 output. So to be safe I am recommending a mod power supply if you stack more items. Your mileage may vary depending on the mods. The CN6 port is protected against overload, so there is no harm in trying. You will find other similar LED mods that recommend mod power supplies or provide power from the 48volt supply instead.

Hey, any of you who have installed back box back lights, would you please post a photo of where you mounted them? Where did you route the wiring into the back box? Did you use clips or Velcro, or what? Any hints or caveats would be appreciated!

I just received my speaker and under-cabinet lighting kits from Myth Pinball. I got their "Advanced" under-cabinet kit which includes 4 light bars. I'm thinking I'll install just 2 strips under the cabinet (like their standard model has) and place the other 2 on the back box. It came with an extra (but short) wiring harness and the control box has an available separate outlet for the back box lights.

I have the ninja lights kit so it's a complete kit. No diy.
Their back box lights adhere with magnets that are attached to the back of the light strips as the back box is metal. You can move them around where you like but about 2 to 3 in from the edge is where I place them.
The wires go through the hole at the top where the topper wires feed.

The bottom strips Mount with brackets and tape on the bottom edges centered... wires could either go through those four mesh vents and you'd have to remove some staples to pry one back or you could drill a hole in the bottom of your cabinet.
Hope that helps for your situation

Shortly after installing the topper (not sure it is related but thought I would mention in case someone thinks otherwise), I started having some lights go out at the back of the play field. Intermittent at first but now quite a few are out and I am getting an "overcurrent detected on node 9" message. Reading the manual, that's the node that the lights are connected to and reading other posts it seems like the likely culprit is a shorted bulb. Before "all" the lights went out, I noticed the light by the spinner was out so I am going to start with that bulb. I am new to this and the only bulb I have ever changed was above the scoop which is super accessible...any advice on how to get to this bulb? Can I get to it from underneath or do I have to take out the time machine?

20230623_081808 (resized).jpg

,

Thanks for that idea! I have some small magnets that should work perfectly for that. I assumed I would run the wiring through the topper harness hole...there's plenty of room for both. I'll have to get creative with the harness I'll have to use - the "extra" one I have is intended to extend the bottom lights, not nearly long enough for back-of-panel options. As for the bottom light strips, what you said is the plan per their instructions. They provided suitable clips for mounting.

Tks again...!

I'm not home right now to look but I'm going to guess that it's accessible from underneath. You may have to use a screwdriver to remove The bulb socket so it drops out of the hole in order for you to access the bulb. That's how I'm imagining it anyway. Definitely sounds like a short.

But it's curious because to install the topper you don't have to access anything on the playfield. You just dropped the wires in the back box and plug everything in behind the translite.
If you unplug the topper does the problem go away?

Upgraded speakers today.
BIG difference, for little cost. $40USD

Would highly recommend.

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Wow. Link?

If anyone needs a topper we have one left. $1699 Shipping, tax, Credit Card fees included.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/151850

Bill
Fargo Pinball

I don’t see this. Was it removed in the recent code updates?

It's not just you... I didn't see it on my game either running latest code. I do have this problem, too... my dial stops at the edge of each selection instead of the center.

ebay.com link: itm

I got mine off eBay. Used. Link above.

But they are also available on Amazon now $55. Brand new.

Pair KICKER 46CSC44 4" 300 Watt 4-Ohm 2-Way Car Audio Coaxial Speakers CSC44 https://a.co/d/2hwgmMj

Have a Rush pinball banner for sale, it is a reproduction banner but looks amazing! 24 x 62 inches and with the four grommets. $120US with free shipping in Canada or USA. Only have one left. The print on the top side is from a Foo Fighter banner below it Thanks.
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I ordered these. 5.25” and silk dome tweeter plus flush mountable. A bit more money but worth it IMO.

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Wonder if those are an upgrade to pinwoofer 4 inch.