Rush (LE)
Stern, 2022
Rush (Premium)
Stern, 2022
Rush (Pro)
Stern, 2022You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider flynnibus.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Quoted from Psw757:They are shipping and showing up at locations already.
On another note, are we going to see a live stream of the pro anytime soon?
where? I've only heard of the Logan Arcade one... which is kinda a test arrangement I think. Operator games haven't shown up yet... Helicon usually is first to get the goodies
Quoted from Psw757:Tilt amusements streamed a pro today on FB and he said they got some in.
lol.. yeah just 2 hrs ago. Good news is.. that means we should have ours next week 
Quoted from WeirPinball:No that's relatively new
If you mean by the last 4 years or so... yes, that's relatively new in the grand scheme of Stern's existence Has been happening at least as far back as Maiden.
Quoted from sfbrian:Got my Rush yesterday. One issue I'm already starting to notice with the few games I played was with the scoop protector. It's already starting to get bent with just a few plays and starting to create inconsistency with the kickout. I played my friend's Rush yesterday too which has been on location for a day and the metal flap inside the game was sticking out causing the ball to not go into the scoop properly.
[quoted image]
Yup.. happens within a day or two here with 3 of the 4 rushes onsite. Don't know why the inside tabs are moving so much... but immediate solution is just to remove Stern's poor protector. It's not holding up AT ALL.
Quoted from Rarehero:Since Borg tends to re-use, I wonder if there are any existing Mantis or Cliffys for other Borg games that would fit.
Unlikely- the scope is particularly narrow.
The only thing i can think of is the factory inner tabs are not as flat as possible to the sides of the scoop and they are getting smashed open during the eject sequence.
It is a vey unusual outcome to see the ball literally suspended in the hole for scoop shots like this. It also causes highly erratic scoop returns as the ball would hit the inner tabs.
This is not a saucer shot… thats the ball held up by the inner tabs 
9E657E15-4412-4F5C-A9FC-DB5EDCFF5CD7 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from thekaiser82:This is a bummer. My Mando is 700 plays in and the scoop protector on it still looks great.
Mando is a saucer - this is a full scoop
Quoted from sfbrian:I turned down the kickout power which seemed to help with the inconsistencies with the kickout. It might help slow down the protector issue but it's still going to be a problem. I suggest everybody turn down the kickout power until we get a proper fix.
Power won’t stop the ball from hitting the tabs. If you want to keep it on, you gonna flatten those inner tabs or shape them in a manner to avoid the contact at the edge.
Its interesting that the hole doesn’t have a true bevel edge either. It has this like routed lip to make it not a hard cormer… instead two smaller corners
Quoted from mc8045:I bent ours back on location 2 days ago pulled the whole thing off and bent the tabs to put pressure on the playfield it's already bent back towards the middle any off center shots to the right of the scoop have bent the corner of the fake cheap cliffy and slowly bent the flap back toward the middle of the scoop. Lame but as I said in my^ post we contacted our distributor and stern knows its an issue and is working on a fix. We will see what happens.
Yes, knowing the scoop was having issues just HOURS after unboxing due to deformation it was clear to me no amount of repositioning/bending would have any hope of staying consistent enough to not require multiple service calls a week. Every game in the area has the issue in after just a few dozen games... it can't hold up at all.
So we punted on it and its 100% reliable without it there. 10mins to take off. As you said, Stern is aware and 'working on a fix' but no details on what it is. Maybe just a thicker one or the side tabs being the type that secure into the wood, or is better secured by going under both posts there, instead of just the one so it can't move as easy.
The sounds in the game as it plays now are ok... not stand out but not a detriment I think. Not nearly as annoying as in the initial reveal.
The call-outs aren't great. The writing isn't so awful, it just doesn't seem to fit the energy of the moment. The humor is there, just kinda in character to Alex .. it just doesn't make you smile as much.
The biggest issue for our 'new' plays has been understanding what to do. The screen design is really hard to read as the player (way too small of text).. and lack of guidance in call-outs and on the display for most stuff. Obviously areas they can improve upon in software.
The game is fun to shoot... and gets real fun in multiball. The mix of the cross-playfield shots and the loops make it fun when alot is going on.
Software is new of course... but I hope they improve the screen and guidance stuff. The animations and media stuff for the most part are nice and enjoyable.
I like the game more than TMNT when it hit the street, and way more than LZ. I'm still optimistic it can be made into a B+/A game.
There is a lot of really crude portions in there still..
like the mystery award playout is crazy long at times. It does the roll the bones animation separate from the cycling of awards.. so its really long at times.
The high score leader boards are really wonky at the end of the game. Sometimes its just sits there on the same score for what seems like 10 seconds...
Stern has done this on many games, but the really generic white text for so much gets annoying and looks ultra basic.
The game could use some video clips explaining the time machine LEDs and shots to qualify modes. Right now there is a ton of stuff that happens and players don't really know why. The feedback (especially audibly) on what to chase is non-existent.
We joked today... The game's tag line should be "Stern's first game by Canadians, for Canadians"
I do think the extra return on the premium/LE next to the time machine will make a huge difference in satisfaction/purpose of that shot.
Quoted from N101AA:It hasn't even been 24 hours since this game was put on location...
[quoted image]
we weren't kidding when we said games were having this failure within the first few hours
Quoted from BobLangelius:[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
That isn’t fully accurate
The inside tabs are all rectangular and the front tab goes down and tabs/grabs under the playfield. The two sides do not tab under the playfield.
The ring above the playfield is like all others of this design. The difference here seems to be somehow the side tabs get deflected inward very easy. Maybe sideways movement as there is little lateral support.
Might see an updated one that mounts to both posts if possible.
Eta: I believe the two side tabs have slants on their edge towards the front of the playfield.
Other pf protectors start bowing at the top quite easily (see CGCs MBR… and many TAF scoops). This one is deforming on the inner tabs and that is the failure that kills it
Quoted from manadams:It's just weird how Mando and GZ both have scoops with the same protectors and not having this issue. Maybe they changed the design or got a bad run from a manufacturer.
Mando and gz both have saucers - this is a scoop… and a narrow one.
Quoted from WeirPinball:Narrow may be the problem here - no room for the ball and a protector without friction coming out
Its not THAT tight. The ball isn’t pinched and has a good 1/4” or so width more the ball’s width. It is the tabs get that beat up that quick!
The first tell is the scoop kickout is inconsistent in where it feeds. That is the ball getting deflected by the protector’s tabs.
Unless you want two-three service calls a day on the same game… pull it
Quoted from zacaj:Same issues with the scoop. I've sent a message to my distro, hopefully there's a fix soon. Looks like a pain to remove too
Not too hard... The two top side plastics release and move out of the way easy. The harder part is the through-post.. so you have to wrench from top and bottom.. and the bottom nut is SO CLOSE to the scoop assembly its hard to get a nut driver on it.
It's only about 10-15min job.
Quoted from indypinhead:I have a hunch that with no protector, it's just a matter of time before the artwork around the scoops will start chipping away.
Well notice there is no mylar below the scoop either.. where typically you have a tongue of mylar to protect against the ball skidding after an eject.
Right now the no protector is the lesser of evils..
Quoted from mrossman5:Happy to see this!
Guess that's how Stern likes to say 'delay is done' without really making an announcement
Interestingly enough.. we've seen zero issues with the side protector on all the Rushes on location here (up to 4 now).
Which suggests that the problem really manifested more with the eject action - as the side one doesn't have an eject on the pro. Or maybe it is purely the width... the side scoop is wider than the lower scoop.
Quoted from northvibe:My side scoop was starting to lift and show dents…. But from the 10-20 plays it looked ok.
[quoted image][quoted image]
The edges lifting isn't the main concern though.. nearly all protectors do that (some more than others). CGC Monster Bash comes to mind... At least that is still playable. The killer on this issue was that it killed the game in a way that was unrecoverable unless you can take the glass off. The ball would 'hang' where no ball search could ever free it. It was the movement of the tabs in the playfield cutout that were the dealbreaker.
Quoted from dozer1:So it looks like they should not have chamfered the hole so much. Then add a little better quality protector and have no problem. Quite a few ways to fix this, but maybe not at this point in production. The PF's are all made I imagine. Specially bent protector that follows the chamfer better?
Thats the thing… its not a smooth bevel. I doubt cary has touched a rush. I’ll take closer photos to show it better tomorrow. They used this cheap stepped edge cut instead of a true chamfer edge.
This is the only view i had on my phone… but look at the edge. No chamfer. Its like a step cut by a milling bit. I can get some better photos tomorrow
C063DC91-D486-44C1-A545-7A3D35E35026 (resized).pngQuoted from dozer1:I see what you mean. Someone would have to explain to me why they went that route and not a true chamfer.
Speculative… they knew it would be covered so they reduced cutting time by doing it this way.
Stream reveal didn’t have the protector on it… but every public game did (that i saw).
Quoted from flynnibus:Thats the thing… its not a smooth bevel. I doubt cary has touched a rush. I’ll take closer photos to show it better tomorrow. They used this cheap stepped edge cut instead of a true chamfer edge.
This is the only view i had on my phone… but look at the edge. No chamfer. Its like a step cut by a milling bit. I can get some better photos tomorrow [quoted image]
Compared with another example tonight. This game has about 560 balls played on it.
This one has a better front edge… not as stepped, but you can see it a bit in the other edges. I didn’t look close enough when setup to know if it’s rounding with use… or just a better cut.
A8C21506-1373-4F35-8A51-9629DAC52F70 (resized).jpeg
FABF593D-961E-449D-9FD3-72C94AC637F5 (resized).jpeg
4033E4A7-8B57-47C6-86F7-DF5753CA5440 (resized).jpeg
The side scoop has just a tad of lifting on one side… but isn’t impacting play at all
56955927-89A9-408F-B214-B5D4C27B661E (resized).jpeg
Quoted from insight75:This looks like hell. And it looks like hell where the ball would never touch.
Yeah it's what I've been trying to explain.. the edge cut isn't this night tight chamfer. The other game has a more pronounced two step edge. This one looks like it had a chamfer, but the through cut of the hole isn't all the way to the edge of the chamfer. It just didn't look like it was intended to be exposed to me.
Quoted from Psw757:Question for those who have played the game.
Are the songs tied to particular modes? I ask because I watched a couple streams yesterday and could have sworn the mode being played did not correspond to the actual song being played.
Just trying to understand how that aspect works.
- at ball start you pick a song. It's just background music, doesn't connect to what you are doing/shooting.
- when you start an untimed mode, that song plays until you finish it or drain
- when you start a multiball, that song plays, and right now, continues playing after the end of the multiball until you drain or.. ?
Quoted from kool1:Anyone else getting balls stuck on the left side ramp drop to flipper?
I have had to pull the glass twice to fix this.
[quoted image]
uhh.. move the return's placement over the inlane so this doesn't happen.
Quoted from kool1:Thanks.
Never bought new before. I guess I shouldn't assume it's all working and tested out of the box.
even on old games.. things get loose, move, etc. Just part of owning games But yes, having to 'dial in' a new game, or any game that was freshly assembled is par for the course. Tweaks, or things that worked at first, but fail quickly.. all par for the course. Don't be afraid to open it up
Quoted from kool1:In my brain I kind of assumed NIB was ready to go too. Long day yesterday lol.
Only HEP games 
Quoted from Padrino:I might just be ignorant but isn’t very similar if not the same as the scoop on Godzilla? Wondering why the scoop on Rush such a pain
its not the same scoop
Different mech and different hole size.
Godzilla, mando, etc use a pf cutout with vuk directly attached to playfield. Ball never goes below.
Rush is a hole with a scoop and subway underneath with the eject coil down at the bottom of the scoop mech
This protector was too soft, the hole size, and that the ball has to pass through entirely up and down... is why it’s different
Quoted from John-Floyd:I’m no engineer, Cary hardy said something about the beveled edges or something on Rush that make the original protector not sufficient
And cary hadn’t touched one when he made that video… it was armchair guesswork. Debunked before
Quoted from pinballjah:For the Song Mode, does the first record you collect determine the song mode you collect or is it based on the most collected before you enter the time machine? I seem to always get Tom Sawyer or Working Man for some reason. I think the first song mode will start after two records are collected of the same color. Maybe my game is set to the easiest level so it only takes two records before achieving Song Mode? Thanks for the help.
determined by which color you have the most of.. in case of tie it is something like left to right.
Song is qualified by hitting enough records (of any color), which song is played is determined by your # of colors. Hit shots more before starting mode to boost values in the mode.
The mystery video playout can get extremely long... the long rollout of options AFTER the dice video gets tiresome. Hopefully they tweak that... keep it short.
The callouts for points is tied specifically to the 1-2-3 shots. As you get better and chase those shots you will appreciate the tension they help bring as the values get high. At the base values they feel pointless and out of place. Trust me, as you try to stack a few albums or collect more.. they will feel more in place.
Quoted from Photopin:I'm not trying to be snarky, just curious because I'm fairly new to this NIB thing. If Stern designates the first run of Pros for operators, how are so many people ending up with them in their homes?
They make games in batches... Stern doesn't micromanage every transaction they lean on their distros to do that. Sometimes the numbers don't line up great and distros have more units than operator buys and those games bleed out to the regular buyers.
Quoted from bbaker2824:Dang. Played at Padavans again tonight. I would not recommend removing the protector without adding mylar.
[quoted image]
Wow thats bad. Worst in our area is basically one of those chips.
As I inspect more games i’ve found the quality of the cut/edge for the scoop has varied significantly. From one that looks chamfered as you might expect… to what looks like the stepped sides of the great pyramid. Stern’s routing on this PF was pretty inconsistent.
Here’s another data point… this one has a decent chamfered edge.. and one chip so far plus whatever is under that hack . (Not my game)
7A713EDD-D861-4B86-A39B-77657CD26C23 (resized).png
The wear pattern on left and right sides has been pretty consistent in what i have monitored between examples. Probably also why the sides on the weak protector didn’t last. Not sure what shot pattern is the worst offender.
Quoted from Diamond:If that is the case why has it not one LE has been delivered to anyone yet?
borg already showed the games being built with the different protector. This is a non-issue.. also confirmed by mnpinball. Why aren't LEs on the curb yet? Any number of reasons.. but it seems like they are almost any day now.
Quoted from Shapeshifter:I am/was interested in Rush, but going to wait and see how scoopgate pans out.
It's dead jim...
Unfortunately stern is still not yet providing replacement protectors 
I swear they must wait forever for documentation or something verse just sending the ops the parts needed
Quoted from aamauzy:With that top piece that is pressing down on the sides of the scoop, it looks like the two "fingers" are spread out about a millimeter from the actual edge of the hole, so I would bet just about any shot that would have hit previously would still hit. The hole isn't obstructed at all. Now, I don't know if there was any chance of any shot that wasn't dead-on hitting with the old scoop - I could see shots coming from an angle being obstructed, but I doubt there were many if any angled shots that would have sunk before. I haven't had hands-on with one of these things let so I'm not sure.
The fingers are of significant thickness - this is not good for being transparent to ball movement. This is... disappointing.
This is Stern basically saying "there is no room in the hole".. else why not a mantis style protector? They cleared out the hole and put two dumbells on the side hoping it holds it in place. I'm.... skeptical.
Quoted from manadams:Can we wait for someone to shoot one with the fix before just claiming it will be a harder shot to make?[quoted image]
Go tape a nickle to your playfield and report back to us how it affects the ball travel. Or do you know already?
Quoted from AUKraut:If you look where the two fingers are with respect to the curved kickout flap above the hole it looks like the curve coincides with the new thick fingers, so that the curved flap already stopped balls from going in there from the sides.
The ball deflector portion of the scoop protector is taller than the ball coming off the PF. The ball if it hit the deep sides would deflect, not reject. This is why we don't see many scoops with their sides flattened by balls.
And if you look at photos I've posted before you can see ball wear spots in those areas.. which couldn't happen if the ball didn't fit or travel there
Quoted from timmmmyboy:I know Stern sells the expression lighting kits for Led Zeppelin Pro as an upgrade, any idea how long they might take to start offering those for Rush?
Like all accessories for Stern pinballs. Virtually no one ever knows until they show up... They are really bad about it.
Quoted from aamauzy:Manufacturing a whole new part and getting quantity would have set these things back 6 months in today's climate.
So where did the new claw plate come from then?
Quoted from aamauzy:I'd assume a flat clamp plate could be stamped out a helluva lot quicker, locally, and en masse than design and bending a new scoop likely over seas. But you know as much as I do, so we're all guessing at this point!
protectors are cnc cut and just bent on a simple brake - or even done with sheers and hand tools - no special tooling per part needed. That's why a guy in his house in CA can pump them out on short notice. Of course he doesn't scale.. but that's because it's not a manufacturing shop. And the second most popular guy does it in his small business shop.
Stamping parts custom dies be made, and of course the press to make them. Slower startup, more expensive, but higher volume.
I'm sure Stern probably has someone in their zipcode making them - not needing china
Now if Stern would ever give us the parts.. we can see how they perform.
Quoted from Pin_Fandango:It is such a big flaw I cant understand how it was never picked up during production.
Clearly, the designer never played his game on a real machine more than 10 times?
Or simply the game changed on the line.
Quoted from SkyKing2301:That's helpful too, but I'm talking more about the screen explaining the particular objectives when you start a new mode. Also, I still don't know if each mode is timed, or runs until you beat it or start something new, or what
The song modes are pretty simple once started... usually hit the lit shot, flashy shot is more, if time machine has green lit, probably a collect there. Like most of the modes are just keep shooting the colored inserts. The nuances are in the setup BEFORE the mode starts.
Song modes are not timed. Complete enough shots typically and song is done or drain.
Quoted from Nevus:I should note than on my same wifi, GNR updates very quickly.
JJP uses delta upgrades most of the time - Stern still uses a full package for every upgrade. And now that Stern upgrades are so big, it's quite noticable.. 4+ gigs vs maybe 100megs.
That example is extreme. We have day 0 Rush Pros on location that are being played all the time with very minor wear and NOTHING like that last example. So don't freak out about playing a few hundred games.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Extreme or not, it's happening to too many games. Would like to fix before it happens, no matter how small the damage is.
Then sit and watch your game in attract mode. Your LE already has a protector on it that isn't going to move.
Our Rush pro has been played daily on location for FIVE weeks without any protector at all. Your LE isn't going to melt in 30 plays.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:So, why can't you respond civilly? It's a legit concern, given sterns response
What response is that? Know who told me I could safely take the protector off? Stern.
I did respond civilly - I gave you specific real world examples that have context... not random photo drops where you don't know if that's 5 minutes or 4k plays later. Yet you keep going on with absolutes that ignore all the data points you're being given.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:And reports on all the games say damage to edge of playfields. Just trying to prevent it if I can.
No, not 'all games' and Stern is already preventing it for you with the updated protector - you don't have to play without any protector on it if you don't want to.
Quoted from Craiger:I’m new to Stern IC so I could be wrong, and I’m no Cybersecurity expert (or am I), but isn’t the IC QR code specific to you and/or your machine? If so, definitely no good can come from posting it, MPD. Folks’ll be able to assist without the image.
In registration in the game menu, you scan YOUR code... you don't need to read the QR codes from the game at all. it's the other direction.. you tell the game who YOU are, and it talks to the cloud.
Setup network
goto IC setup, scan YOUR Insider Pro account QR code
Then goto Insider webpage to accept the registration and assign it to a location
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Ok, stern telling others it will void warranty
Where was that for rush? What I saw was alot of people assuming what Stern would do - not that they were told that by Stern for their Rush game.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:plenty of pictures of games, even le, with the scoop edge cutting into the field
Nah - skykings photos don't really show that.. you have people trying to microscope this thing, not showing the protector chewing up the PF. This is again people leaping to conclusions. It could be as minor as just the scratch... detent.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:But what do I know, I've only owned machines for 40 years. Later,,
Yet you don't have any mylar around and are freaking out about playing a few games on a PF based on one newbie's assessment of another guy's photos. If you are that paranoid after 40yrs of ownership, yes, watch it in attract mode, because I don't know how you are so freaked out about the PF that is under a factory protector anyways.
Quoted from Craiger:Man. Gotta agree to disagree. The pictures clearly show impacted edges of the playfield even with (and perhaps because_ )of the protector.
It's just lying there. It would get no more damaged than every other cliffy protector used out there that lay on top of the PF just like this. This is a nuthingburger.
Quoted from Craiger:And I’m not aware of Stern issuing any statement that we could remove the protector, or, in fact, any statement at all about this. Would you please post a link?
It goes the other way - Stern hasn't told people it will void their warranty, just people are assuming Stern will screw them. Where's the link for that?
Where as we contacted Stern BEFORE removing the protector for their grace. My position is from our Support ticket with Stern.. not people just assuming what will happen.
Quoted from ccw2112:Hi all, digging my LE a lot!! During game play the button in the middle of the bar, stays red and doesn’t seems to do anything? It goes white like it should when ready to launch or green also at game begins. Any thoughts?
Its buried in the rules of the game.
It will change which red flasher is lit to control the ramp divertor
If you have collected the album (from combos) for the song you are playing, it will enable the Weapon (there is a big thing on screen when you start the song if its available). The weapon does different things in different songs, but basically is a power-up kind of effect.
Green is for starting the game (can double as start button) white for auto plunge.
Quoted from SkyKing2301:Folks keep debating about my pictures regarding possible pitting and wear and who knows what -- I did my best to take clear pics but they can always deceiving and there's always glare and artifacts.
I obviously see wear around the inside of the scoop, more on the right side than the left. I dont see any damage to the painted areas of the playfield outside the scoop protector. I can't see much of anything under the scoop protector, because well, it's there.
Here's video that might help, as moving around helps discern what's glare and what's not. Clearly the worst of the damage so far is the inner right wall of the scoop but I have no definitive indications that the top surface of the playfield has sustained damaged.
Debate away, but I'm not removing the protector to inspect for further wear unless/until I see something definitive about warranty -- you folks talking about removal-voids-warranty have me spooked.
This is my LE about 110 games.
The LE has a functioning protector- I wouldn’t tell anyone to take it off. The first run pros are in different boat.
Your scoop is fine. You are always going to get the wood showing some contact like that unless it has a mantis style protector. What matters is when the impact area starts becoming a crater.
I do hope the updated protector includes the side coverage because the game does wear the hole on both the left and right side of the scoop. The le stopgap doesn’t… but we are told it is not the final iteration.
Quoted from Chuckwebster:the exact wording i got from Stern in a tech support emails is this " It is highly recommend to not remove the scoop from your game for it may affect games warranty." this was a couple weeks after the game was released. I'm at about the limit of being able to salvage my original scoop. hopefully the improved one will be released soon.
If you got one of the operator games as an operator then my conversation with Stern would have been about making a determination of 'may' -- because those games are at the front of the line for specific reasons... they 'may' want to consider how to keep those games on location and accessible.
Quoted from BeeGee6533:Ok, so I flashed another SD card and for an evening it booted up and worked. Now, today it won’t boot up again. Just stuck on the album screen. Flashed another SD card. Worked for a bit. Shut it down and it won’t boot up again. Any ideas of what’s going on?
Quick rant: Stern’s quality is garbage lately, sorry for saying. This on an expensive NIB LE. I’ve had significant issues with each Of the 3 NIB sterns I’ve purchased in the last 8 mos.
are you sure you are enabling high voltage after your software changes? Make sure your coin door is closed, or the switch pulled out so the game can talk to the node boards.
Pinmonk's light gels installed last night. a nice touch.. not as impactful as on iron maiden since the planets are so small, but a simple install.
Quoted from PinMonk:Thanks for the mention! Basically they're just there so you have a clue what songs go to what colors on the RGB record shots up the playfield. I have no idea why Stern didn't make those inserts colored or the lighting for those inserts RGB. One or the other, but not neither! It makes that aspect of the game extra-confusing without those inserts colored.
yeah after long enough with the game I never look there as a player, but I can see how it would help people understand the records when first introduced to the game.
Print a L and R or something on them... even though I LOOKED! I still put the two floaters on backwards the first time. Dumbass me
Quoted from Lateralus:Got my LE a couple hours ago! #906
Anyone have damage on the sides like this on their machine? I can't unsee them now and just stare at them...
Also had the back bracket issue on the back right bottom leg bolt. Fixed it by trying different angles and it finally went in. Also, a small chip in the wood in the back, but backbox covers it up.
Little stuff? Maybe. I'm grateful to have one and am thankful, and I try to not let it bother me, but this much money on something, I guess, just makes me a cringe a little.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
paint with some rustoluem painters touch semi gloss black and it will disappear.
Quoted from Sleal16:Generally around 2-3GB. Not much really.
Last rush upgrade was over 8gigs
You need a usb stick with a 16gig fat32 partition
Yes - should. It just seems to help partitioning as 16gig or smaller. Using windows dsik management is easy tool to do so. Avoid apple’s disk utility. Use diskpart or other utility on osx if needed
Quoted from McIntyre905:Not gonna lie. You are speaking French haha. Do I need to partition the usb drive or can I just plug it in download the update and plug it into the machine?
It depends. Sometimes it doesn't like larger USB sticks. Partitioning seems to help with that problem. You can always try, and if you fail, come back and partition the drive.
Also you have to unzip the bundle before moving to USB stick.
Quoted from jid:Gameplay question: what’s a simple strategy for playing this game? I have read the instructions PDF and as much as I’d like to say I understand it all…. I don’t. Trying to explain to a wife or kids what to do other than not lose the balls is OK…. But I’d like to be a little more directed. And for me to learn also.
Any suggestions from anyone who has mastered it yet?
BTW - added a polk psw-10 to my pro…. Love it! Amazon dropped the price on them again so they are cheap. And also added a shaker which is pretty cool.
shoot records until the red light is on the time machine- then shoot the time machine then shoot the colored lights
Keep shooting the time machine when the green light is on to start multiball
The rest they can learn later
Quoted from gandamack:Congrats. Keep us posted with any scoop issues. It is important to know if this batch of Prems have a modified scoop.
Same as le
Quoted from VALIS666:Huh, interesting and useless bit of trivia looking at that photo, Rush is the only LCD era Stern, JJP, AP, or Spooky not to have standard Suzo-Happ coin reject buttons. CGC and Heighway use the Suzo-Happ buttons with the fingers holding a coin. DP uses something entirely different. I should go to bed.
This is recent. I didn't look closer but it could just be the insert graphics. I didnt look at the mech closely
Quoted from manadams:I think the scoop protector issue has more to do with design of the scoop, closer proximity to the flippers and flipper power at max from the factory than subpar metal compared to what Cliffy uses. I turned my flipper power down from hard to soft before the first game and can make all the shots just fine.
No - the original protector was garbage and the design of the hole made it worse.
It literally could not last an hour of play.
Quoted from WeirPinball:I find it interesting too that people complain about cost cutting, but I noticed the pf support rails are back on the pro. First one I've bought in a while so not sure when the added them back in but thank you Stern!
Since iron maiden. Thank you elwin!
Quoted from Rarehero:Ok, I feel like I have a good handle on the rules, but there’s something weird and not sure if it’s me or a bug.
So when you shoot a record color, that is what determines your song, right? Usually it seems consistent - I’ve got some light blue records, Tom Sawyer is lit. However there have been a few times where no orange records are lit…but Working Man is the song ready to go. Not sure how this is possible if there are no orange records on the playfield. I think it also happened with La Villa…I didn’t have any purple records lit, but La Villa was ready to go.
The only think I could think of - does the game save what records you collected earlier in the game? So like, there may not be any orange currently on the playfield, but I collected some oranges earlier so that would determine that the song will be orange (Working Man)?
shooting the rush standups will change the record colors. So you likely had shots hit before (screen will show your leading song) and then changed colors.
Noticed our premium shipped with the outlanes closed all the way up. Our pro shipped in the middle position.
The premium is playing wayyy longer than our pro did initially and scores are way higher too
Quoted from kool1:I closed up my Pro outlanes. I need all the help I can get. I think the VUK on the premium helps slow the game down and sets up nice shots, the dead end on Pro can go SDTM.
We always had a safe return on the dead-end shot. The delay in the VUK firing is really annoying.. it's like intentionally delayed like it's going to play some effect, but never does. Hopefully software tightens that up.
Quoted from PinMonk:Does anyone else HATE the service buttons they're using on Rush? The LE here has really mushy buttons with no spring/resistance to speak of and no stroke, so you end up sometimes getting two or three presses instead of a single one with proper resistance when you press. Sometimes you get nothing and have to re-press. Do I have defective buttons, or is this another stealth cost-reduction?
Been a problem for awhile on the last few games... the buttons just don't seem to make reliable contact and need more presses. Just crappy parts.
Quoted from PinMonk:It didn't stand out to me on Godzilla Pro's service menu, but I'm DEFINITELY noticing on Rush LE. Hate them.
Inconsistent parts… recurring theme
Quoted from jid:Over 200 plays on my Pro. The playfield looks like it is starting to get quite a few ball indentations/dimples. Especially in the lower playfield. Is anyone else seeing this? Is the fix to just put down a large Mylar circle?
I tried to take pics but am failing at getting a good shot with the lighting.
Normal with most stern PFs these days - some show it more than others. Our premium is shows the usual dent marks vs the flat glossy surface
Audits showed our premium was playing wayy long. 10% of games were over 15min!
Moved an outlane post… damn right one will take removing all the right ramp which is one masssssive piece screwed in everywhere.
Changed software difficulty on time machine, lowered ball saves, and tightened tilt.
First game in awhile i’ve had to be so aggressive in clamping down on
Quoted from jonboy71:Does anyone else think it gets too quiet during La Villa Strangiato?
well get to the other movements in the song and it will change
With Rush upgrades pushing 9gigs now... Stern really needs to invest in doing delta upgrades when possible.
I'm still trying to figure out wtf they were thinking with those bumpers and how this isn't some kind of joke.
Quoted from Kkoss24:I’m not being ignorant just trying to understand why ?
1) exposed brackets to the normal ball travel
2) taking away significant ball travel paths (the sideways movement) - Adding armor all around the top trying to make it into some one dimensional entrance
3) It looks like killing flies with sledgehammers
4) I'm still not convinced of the ball direction that was really causing concern
On our local games the surface that got the most abuse was the right side of the scoop... the ball doesn't typically approach from the left, and certainly not at speed.. so not sure how it was taking abuse there.
I would prefer a solution that didn't look like putting an erector set over your scoop.
Quoted from Kkoss24:Not sure if this has been brought up but this upper protector seems to be holding up (laying flat) due to those angled overlaps on the side .The front does not have these therefore is lifting (buckling) .I know it’s a tighter hole but seems to have the room for it .Maybe Stern should router these holes 1/4 inch wider on the new machines not built yet and add those braces .As far as the machines already out the door Id be interested in replacing the front with the side braces and see what happens .
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
The flaps are the part that was failing in the first place in the original design and why they are missing on rev2.
The flaps needed something more to stay in place
Quoted from faceforward_007:# 440 has landed! It's not a true Rush pinball unless it's christened in Canadian snow
Many thanks to Nitro for hooking me up with an LE, a grail pin for sure. Also thanks to Michael Barnard for the amazing artwork, you killed it man, fantastic job!
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Good lord man… next time keep the side of the box so you don’t put that cabinet down in the snow
Quoted from swampfire:I’ll try to take some close-up pics of both scoops this afternoon when I go back over. I’m almost sure that Stern added Mantis-style protection to both scoops, which means the tabs wouldn’t be able to bend up. I think new owners will be pleasantly surprised. I’ve been watching all the new Rush games at the show, and there’s no sign of any issues at either scoop.
It doesn’t look like a mantis style… it looks like they have a flat bracket mounted topside that has extensions that fold over the sides down into the hole. Then the bumper bracket looks like its on top of that.
Rev2 was a flat bracket over the cliffy-style lip protector. Rev looks like a similar mount but with extensions that fold over into the hole as well
My take from the photos people have posted
Our premium just built the week before didn’t have this new design
Quoted from PinMonk:Why would you wax? That defeats the mylar adhering well. I wipe with rubbing alcohol to REMOVE wax in the area before applying mylar so it sticks better and doesn't partially come up at the edges or bubble.
It still sticks great over wax. The key is a flat uniform surface.
I use wax under it everytime
Quoted from 27dnast:Looks like they may have been open?[quoted image]
If you were playing a pro it shipped default at middle. Premium and LE shipped at the bottom spot
Quoted from McIntyre905:Also is there a way to reset the high scores ? My dad's not very good but I'd like to have him on the scoreboard haha
Yes - in the utils menu if i recall
Sterns play very well out of the box. They may have some tweaks needed, but overall we can count on setting a game up and having it play reliably immediately. Usually the tweaks we need are things that don't show up immediately, or are minor. Pretty happy with them. That isn't to say they are fault free - but for us, they are able to play and earn, consistently almost without fail right out of the box. That's the $$
Obviously the Rush scoop is odd-man out to that history... but was easily resolved in 15mins.
I'm really curious why they defaulted it to virtual... when it's a main value add feature of the higher end models. I've been weary to enabling it because they disabled it for some reason...
Quoted from swampfire:I think there are more changes than just the new bottom scoop bracket. The protectors now have tabs on 3 sides that go all the way under and around the playfield. Can someone with an older LE tell me if this looks different than their scoops?
Bottom scoop:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Top scoop:
[quoted image]
[quoted image]
Here’s what the new scoop bracket looks like out of the game (I’ll reinstall it after waxing):
[quoted image]
That is different for sure.
For the lower scoop
Rev1 had the inner sides, but only the front clipped under the PF - the sides did not
Rev2 had no inner sides at all
Rev3 as you are showing has inner sides, but clips as well... plus the big deflector bracket on top.
thx for the photos
Quoted from Lermods:Why is the scoop different on rush? Is there a reason it had to be different than gz and mando?
Been covered before countless times. Mando and GZ are bigger, and the ball sits right on the eject mech (like a saucer) instead of passing through the PF into a chute with the eject.. so the ball has to pass both up and down through the PF unsupported.
Rush scoop is likely narrower due to the shot lines to both the pops and time machine and side scoop.
Quoted from Lermods:Are you saying it’s like Metallica? This is the pic I am looking from the gallery, which is the same as mando and gz.
[quoted image]
It's only like that because that's what it looks like WHEN THE BALL IS STUCK due to the protector hanging it up there
Quoted from Boslaw:can't upgrade the code because every time I scan my QR the game says "This game is not registered" even though I did register the game online yesterday.
You actually went into the website and accepted the game registration?
It’s a two part process… scan your qr code at the game and then goto website and yousee the pending registration request
Quoted from Boslaw:My only concern about doing this is whether or not adding the sub like this will blow the built-in amp? I only know enough to make me dangerous
If you run the amp as a line input - there is no additional appreciable load to the game's amp. It's high impedance to not draw power/load from the output.
Quoted from Boslaw:This rule always confuses me during the game: "Starting a song mode does not prevent progress towards time machine multiballs, and time machine multiballs can be started during song modes"
As a very average player, it's hard for me to keep the various rules straight. When I'm trying to figure out the requirements of a mode (basically, I'm just aiming for the colored arrow shots) and suddenly I have a multi-ball with a completely different song, it takes a sec to figure out what's going on. It feels totally random when I'm in the moment even though I know it's not.
Simple breakdown... the time machine progress/goals are not locked out by starting a song.
If you start a time machine multiball, it's simply overlaid on what is going on. On rush, shot colors can be confusing in this situation... but if you know the song objectives, just know those are still out there (usually just hitting key shots enough)
Quoted from Schwaggs:I just used a micro switch I had in my stash. This is the same switch that has been used in pinball machines for years. The problem is that the force to activate the switch varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and worse from switch to switch in manufacturer batches. I replaced my switch with the exact same model and manufacturer switch and the new one stays closed while the original doesn’t.
It's not because force varies batch to batch - it's because the actuation force is part of the design spec for the switch. Same looking switch comes in multiple specs. So swapping switch from Game A to Game B isn't always fully compatible. For instance in the Cherry DG Microswitch line there are 5 different actuator force variations in EACH of the actuator types. Some applications use different switches and most pinball people don't pay close enough attention and will just see 'looks close enough'.
Quoted from PsychoPsonic:I hear my son may have been involved in a couple of these getting installed today - I wonder if Flynnibus may be available later to give us an after-action report from the floor...
Maybe at mustang sally. We’ve kept with rev2 here so far
Quoted from Gryszzz:Last night I was getting "File too large for destination system" and I just write it off as a crappy USB.
Today I have a 64gb SanDisk and it's saying the same thing. There's nothing on this USB.
Do I need a brand new USB? Doesn't make sense...
Can someone please help?[quoted image]
It's not formatted right. ETA: OR you are trying to copy the whole zip file. Extract the zip file and then copy the individual files to the USB drive. Do not copy the ZIPPED FILE!
Use Disk Management - named differently depending on your Windows Version.. but on Win10 you can find it in Start Menu as 'Create and format hard disk partitions'
With your USB plugged in, find it in the list of disks at the bottom of the window. It will be labeled 'removable' and you should be able to locate it by noting the disk letter assigned. MAKE SURE YOU ARE LOOKING AT THE RIGHT DISK!
Right click on the Volume shown, and select Delete Partition
1 (resized).png
Then it will show again as 'unallocated space'. Right click on it again and click 'New Simple Partition'
2 (resized).png
Go through the Wizard, specify the disk size. You should use a 16gig partition size for compatibility. So when prompted for how big, put in 16384 MB
Then on the screen where it asks for a name and format, make sure FAT32 is selected and give it a name ('Code') in my example.
3 (resized).png
That's it
it will remount the disk, and copy your files to it.
Quoted from Gryszzz:Yeah it's only 10gb. I'm completely computer illiterate but I've done this before.
I got it unpacked but it's saying the file is empty...
Downloading code again. Frustrating but at least Miami is hanging in there lol.
THANK YOU for your responses.
I guess I'll go buy a new 16gb USB
No need - extract the zip file on your computer drive first.. then copy the resulting files to the USB
Quoted from McIntyre905:Noticing some wear here under the time machine. Any ideas how to fix it
[quoted image]
What are you looking at?
The wear on the stainless where the ball hits? That's normal and will always be there unless you clean/regrain.. after which it will return again. Metal wears.
Quoted from PinMonk:If you don't regrain it will look great longer. If it bothers him, he can mirror polish it and it will hold up much better.
And still get a wear line... polished just takes longer to see because the wear marks will not have the contrast to the rest of the surface unless reflecting something bright/light colored.
Spinner blew off for the 3rd time .. seems to get hammered in some way that keeps bending the arm out.
Slingshot rubber broke already.. and found the inlane guides already worked themselves free. The joys of new games...
Quoted from DRDAVE:Ditch that Stern cheapo black rubber just like the cheapo balls that come with the game. Akin to spec houses for quality.
Install perfect play silicone rubber and Titan balls and you'll be on the road to Rush nirvana.
Obviously- but this game is for work not pleasure. That costs time and money. The rubber should last a bit… it lasted only 3 weeks.
Quoted from swampfire:Update on this: I emailed [email protected] today (Sunday) and got a reply less than an hour later with a return shipping label, and confirmation that new parts have been ordered. Kudos to Adam Spreadbury at Stern, for his quick and positive response.
My free advice for anyone emailing Stern for support:
1. Include the part # that failed, the circumstances and how you diagnosed it (if possible).
2. Include your serial #, distributor and “born on” date
3. Include your full name and address, for shipping
4. Be polite and professional, this is absolutely not the time to complain.
I’ve been on both sides of this, and I can tell you, this works. When I used to manage a large software project, I quietly followed the message boards on our product. The posts I paid attention to were those that included all the info I needed to solve the problem, without bitching and moaning about how “the manager should be fired” (lol). I grew some pretty thick skin that year (2004), but I’m human, and we all like to be treated with respect.
Lucky for you… because my experience is stern requires the customer distributor to place advance replace purchase orders for expensive parts which slows things down and involves having to deal with multiple parties.
Quoted from John1210:Im ordering new scoop cliffys from cliff (of course). I haven't got my pro yet. Does anyone have pics of the new blue pad protection? Does that also have the forks? Thanks.
Look at the gallery index for this thread to see all the photos
Quoted from j_m_:as SterlingRush pointed out, move upwards a 1/4" for the diameter and think about switching to something like the titan silicone bands. they seem to hold up a bit more than the conventional rubber rings
My 2” titans lasted like 2 weeks on the slingshot
Quoted from kmad:Just the right one? Trying to decide wether to go bigger on both. Have only had a problem with the right one
Only the right here as well. Not enough data to really say why.. but that's our experience.
Quoted from chaosmuffin:Hello all. I was just wondering if anyone knows what the extra micro sd card on the motherboard card was for, see red circle. I have a 32 gb card stuck in there and if I plug it into my pc it can't read it.
[quoted image]
its used by the OS... not specifically called out.. but required to be present for Insider Connected. So likely some internal scratch disk or partition for sandboxing
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:Having installed IC kits on pins that didn't initially ship with them, yeah it is something specific to IC which comes in the kit and gets installed at the same time as the reader and WiFi. I believe it has something on it that gets loaded, either to the main SD card or directly from itself. Unsure if it may also be data specific to the model of the USB WiFi dongle. (E.g., driver)
The card is formatted automatically when added - so it is not used to deliver software.
It’s storage - likely because tgey are now downloading 9gig images that need to be saved, extracted, etc
Quoted from Mookie:Anyone know or have a fix ,when
The main scoop and sometime side scoop have a issue with ejecting the balls during game play .. I have my ejector power at 251 on main scoop and 215 on side scoop.
It happens almost every time i play a game over 5 mins long. Then the ball play end because it cycles through over 3 cycles of trying to kick it out.
Then i have to pull glass and fish balls out like a monkey w a magnet.
Kills all the fun of any true playing for a high score. And pain is my monkey ass ..i feel like im working a job at arcade more then having fun playing pinball.
I did the fix for scoop protector and i did the stern fix on side scoop switch.
It worked perfectly for around 10 days flawless ..then progressively worse ..now 3 balls to fish out after playing a few games is the normal.
I love the game ..Rush Le #61
Fantastic game . do i need to buy new plungers and install?
Also the tiny camera switches have mind of their own. They worked perfectly like i said before .. But now hit or miss registering the mystery bonus is 50-50 proposition. When the balls are stuck in the scoop i can hit the flippers and i get drum solo points and also i can get my mystery prize during they ejection ball cycle process. Sometimes a ball just pops out during game play for me or the next player ..
Long message just giving info if someone knows what to do.
Texted Stern twice no reply so far.
Maybe they're busy w things.
You should look for a physical problem like your scoop coils being loose or something. Check the movement of those plungers for free movement. Make sure your hole protectors are properly flat against the edges
Quoted from Vino:[quoted image]
Wifi isn’t the issue - it’s that stern has not invested in delta upgrades yet… so we get 10gig downloads for trivially small bugfix releases
You’d think with rush and Godzilla making pkg files explode in size they’d invest and make this happen already. Uuugh
Quoted from Black_Knight:Differential updates is the way to go, but how they have integrated WIFI in the machine is still a problem.
I can download the Rush updates on my laptop in less than 20 minutes while it is sitting on the game glass. The machine takes several hours to download from the same spot.
My point was.. if we had delta upgrades you wouldn't care if the wifi performance wasn't as fast as your PC.. because it would be 'good enough' to not really mind. But when it's 8-10gig files.. a 20-30% performance hit really adds up.
My guess is the performance is a combination of the slower SD card performance and likely low memory allocations for the client and network. Your PC has tons of memory to allow fast I/O and large networking windows. The embedded system is far more limited and not likely optimized for high throughput writes.
Stern would actually SAVE money when they reduce their download metered usage by 100 fold - but they gotta actually implement it.
It's not really practical for me to spend an hour+ waiting for a game to upgrade on location... and thats AFTER the code is downloaded. It's gotta change...
Quoted from Chazulli:Ok. I had previously insalled the replacement switch, but it never detected the ball in the scoop, so I put the original back in.
How did you adjust the new switch to make sure it functions correctly? Is there an alignment point? Just make sure that the switch is far enough into the subway?
You should adjust the position of the switch on the mounting screws and possibly bend the blade so that the microswitch clicks soundly when a ball is resting in that spot, but also that it properly OPENS when a ball is not there. Test in hand with a ball before reinstalling the mechanism.. listen for the clear click on and off. Then reinstall, and use the switch test to repeat the test to ensure the switch properly goes on AND off depending on the ball's position.
Prem/LE owners.. check the screws holding the sides of your ramp together. Mine flopped apart today from play and found all the screws quite loose. I reassembled with some blue loctite. And those blue nubs are taking a beating.. only a few months old and toast.
Quoted from Fezmid:I'm finally getting around to installing the scoop switch fix on my LE but have a question - the green wire from the opto is in the way. I can move it to the side but it feels tight - am I missing something or is this normal?[quoted image]
Normal - relocate a bit so its not being pinched. Its just how the wires are mounted to the opto that can make it more of an issue
Quoted from Maken:This pop bumper issue has been going on for many years. On my TWD the lowest pop needed to be cut as I was getting metal shavings everywhere. Stern doesn't care. Really sucks for people who don't have proper tools.
New solution... stern will just mail out $25 Harbor Freight Gift Cards so people can buy their own disposable grinder
Quoted from Hayfarmer:No click, loosened, moved, retightened, still no click. But it's not working with original switch now as well
you need to isolate which switches are registering or not. Because you were talking about side switch, but then scoop, etc. Can't follow exactly what is malfunctioning for you. So start and try to trip each switch individual and see which triggers and which do not. Then if it's any switch except the new side switch not working - double check you reconnected the wires correctly. Use the manual to check wire colors.
The side switch itself may need positioning so the switch isn't stuck on by being pressed when it should not, and actually trip when a ball is there. The click is a reasonable aid to help know if the switch is transitioning.
Quoted from JohnnyTucson:Argh! Blue Loctite on order for me
just goto any hardware store...
Quoted from wolverinewarlord:I'm not even sure where to start on this one. Can anyone help?
Ignore all your observations about where what is ejecting where - that will depend on game state.
Instead focus simply on the switch registering properly for the two ball locations and what your lock setting is. It should be changed to 'always' after the new switch install.
More than likely the switch isn't triggering accurately and needs it's position adjusted. Use the game diagnostics and feed balls in to confirm.. and take subway+switch out to adjust on the bench and ensure the switch properly engaged AND disengages depending on balls resting there.
Quoted from Skeets:My favorite is when the scoop kicks it out straight down the middle...the game recognizes this and has a 1 second ball save and gives you the ball back...only to auto launch straight around through the pops between the flippers...ball lost.
I have been playing with the scoop kickout power and auto launch power so this doesnt happen, as it was happening to me at least once every 3 games.
I love this game so much, but the above, the rattle when you try to soft plunge, and the fact that the auto-launch kicks in if you plunge to short for the skill shot drives me insane.
Not sure what the age of your game is.. but if the scoop kickout is irregular, make sure the protector in the scoop isn't deformed or spread out in any way. What scoop protector are you using?
Quoted from Skeets:Using the Ninja from day one, used to send it down the middle 1 out of 20 times. I did visually inspect the ninja protector, seems like it is sitting properly. I adjusted the power on the scoop kickout higher, and it helped, now it hits the right sling or the right lower flipper, I'm OK with that if it stays consistent.
Personal preference...
but.. v1 stern protector was garbage - had to be removed completely
v2 stern protector worked just fine (this is how the holes looked when I took it off to put v3 on)
v3 stern protector looked awful, but since it's been on I quickly got used to it and I would recommend it every time at this point
My 'wear' after taking v2 off and the game having a month+ of location play
IMG_2570 copy (resized).jpg
(aka - no real wear)
Quoted from Chetrico:Any input is very much appreciate
Yes the switch in switch test and ensure it goes on and off properly. Don’t use game play tests - use the switch test
Quoted from sepins:Haven't unboxed My RUSH LE.
But Stern sent a new protector set a while back and trough kit.
Am I better off buying other protectors. And why the trough kit?
I think you mean the scoop protector and subway switch kit. The latter being a revision to make your far cry locks actually work as intended.
Quoted from Lateralus:Thanks for the reply, but not sure who that is. The only specs I really have are from the manual:
Part # 237-6370-00 - SCREW, 4-40 X 3/16" PFH 100 DEG ZINC
Am I the only one this has happened to? Do I go to my distro or Stern to get these? I guess it took too many hits to the bumpers on the ramp.
Just goto a real hardware store and go through their parts drawers with the screw in hand
Or.. find the screws in your cabinet. They are in there, take a flashlight so you can see better, and feel around all edges. The screws are in your game.
Pickup some blue loctite while you are at the store and reassemble with that on the screws.
Quoted from 80sMan:Does anyone have a close up pic yet of the new scoop protector? It's hard to see in the most recent walkthrough video but whatever I'm seeing in the game at the end, it seems like it's a black color & looks different than a standard type? Still waiting on my Premium.
https://fb.watch/dYxta0niKD/
eh? there is no 'new scoop protector'. We've had what is in effect, v3 for quite awhile. It's the 'ears' bracket plus cliffy we've had for sometime. It's just using black rubber while the first show iteration used blue.
Quoted from BlueCylinder:After fiddling with the switch and the wire form, it's starting to feel like it may not be the switch at all, but the angle and/or speed of the ball up the ramp. It might be completely unrelated, but my machine is on a really uneven basement floor, and my next shot in the dark is to reset all the legs and see if that helps, as I'm also getting lots of drains and SDTM that I didn't have before
Reset the legs?
Use a level and inclinometer and set it up level and the slope between 6.5 and 7.0 degrees. Extremes are not always better. I typically aim for 6.5 to 6.7 degrees depending on how the game plays.
Quoted from BlueCylinder:Oh, I just meant start over and properly level it, or screw each of the feet (not actually the legs, haha) all the way back in and start again. Thanks for the tips.
Don’t try yo level with the legs all the way in. You want room for adjustment. Start with the legs with the lock nut bottomed out to the lever and the leverler all the way in. Then back each leg out a preset count of turns to get a good starting point. With the right preset you are just tuning for the floor.
I count by half turns i can do with a single motion of your wrist. I start with 8 half turns on the front, and 22 on the back. That almost lands on 6.6 every time on first try when i have rubber cups on the front feet. Without cups you’d want go start lower in the back… probably about 14-16 turns.
Use a real level on the playfield or a calibrated digital level. Get within 0.1 degree of level. Use an inclinometer and dial it in to about 6.6-6.8 slope. Test right above/between the sling slots so you have a good straight reference for your level.
Your concerns sound like setup issues… except the ball rejecting on the jackpot switch.. that is common on rush.
Missed ramp shots are just part of pinball… but besides finding thr shot, the left ramp should shoot reliably
Quoted from Kkoss24:Been so busy lately I’m finally taking a couple of evenings off and play some pinball today .I have not kept up much with this thread lately ,and will soon but has Stern fixed the rollover loop problem ? I purchased a LE 2nd hand Nib so I have to go through the original purchaser for any fixes made available which I will do soon but not the holiday weekend .My original scoop protectors are still in tact and he told me he has one of those for me .My loops always registered from the start but lately it’s more like 2/3 or 1/2 .I’ll think of a temporary solution but was just checking on any info .Thanks and enjoy the weekend .
If you mean the upper loop shot, there is no fix from stern at this point. Use the ninjamod one or do it yourself by putting about 3/8” wide material along the top edge of the outside ball guide. Furniture foot pad material cut into a strip works fine.
You will want to get the side scoop and main acoop fixes from the original owner
Quoted from gouveia:Here's a photo of mine. It was a spare piece of plastic I shaped with a dremel and belt sander. It works 100% and is invisible in the game.
[quoted image]
I made a similar piece and only found it about 50% effective on our game. Just doesn’t keep the ball down enough. Maybe fudging the switch more would have helped, but the pad on the rail has been 100% effective without any switch mods for us.
Quoted from texas_compadre:Shooting the inner loop on my Rush Premium was registering only about every third time I made the shot, and after researching the problem here and elsewhere, I was buying into the "airball" theory.
But after spending waaaaaayyyyyy too many hours thoroughly troubleshooting the issue both on the game and on my kitchen table with a multimeter, I learned that the switch doesn't register consistently for a combination of reasons (none of which are "airballs").
First, I ordered and installed the magnetic replacement switch from M&M Creations. No luck. In fact, that switch wouldn't register at all during a game. It would, however, register, in switch test mode, when I waved a screwdriver or other metal object over it... just not a pinball. I removed the M&M switch from the machine and broke out the multimeter. Turns out the M&M switch is a normally closed switch that opens if a metal object --other than a pinball-- moves over it. I tried chrome pinballs, carbon steel pinballs, cheap ball bearing pinballs, rusted pinballs, magnetized pinballs, demagnetized pinballs... no pinball will trigger the M&M Creations switch; has to be a screwdriver, pliers, or other metal object. Weird, but then, I'm not that well-versed in conductivity and magnetism - could be that I received a faulty switch from M&M Creations.
Next, I put the multimeter on the stock Stern (500-9935-04) switch that came out of the game. It checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator on the switch was pressed.
So I ordered two replacement 500-9935-04 switches from Pinball Life. Before installing, I put the multimeter on both of them... same issue... both checked out as closed, whether or not the actuator was pressed. After scratching my head for some time, I took a pair of needlenose pliers and bent the actuator blade slightly up off the actuator button on one of the new switches, and bingo! It became a normally open switch that closed when the actuator was pressed... now I was getting somewhere.
Or so I thought.
Once I wired the new 500-9935-04 switch in and secured it to the playfield, the switch was locked closed and wouldn't change states when the actuator was pressed. Turns out these microswitches are so delicate that just removing or installing one can alter the actuator and turn it into an "always closed" switch. The tolerance is practically microscopic, and the way it fits in when screwed into position can also lock it closed if the wire bend is touching the wood under the playfield.
Finally, the actuator arm doesn't protrude high enough out of its slot in the playfield when the switch is installed - I had to bend the wire part of the actuator arm (strategically, in several places) to get the switch to register consistently without ambiguity. Having gone through all of that, I now have the switch registering every time the ball rolls over it in gameplay, no matter how fast.
So... the problem isn't "airballs" flying over the switch and not tripping it; the problem is state ambiguity within the switch itself (the switches simply aren't reliable) and the tight tolerance within which it needs to be adjusted both above and below the playfield to avoid said state ambiguity. Bottom line: bad microswitch design, bad design on Stern's part in choosing this particular microswitch. And for what it's worth, some of the current "fixes" being offered ($$$) to address the issue simply won't work. Until a reliable solution comes along, the fix is going to be trial-and-error removal, bending, and refitting the stock switch until it works reliably and consistently. Quite a pain in the ass.
Wow - what a long and confusing (and misleading!) post.
A stuck switch is not an “always closed” switch - you simply had a stuck switch due to your actuator. How you had that with the switch just in hand… no idea. You spent a crazy amount of time on simple on/off questions.
Your solution of adjusting the blade up more is needed because, yes the problem is actually “airballs”… or more accurately the ball rides up the rail as the turn is too tight. Moving the blade up helps gets the actuator more deflection from the ball.
Problem is you will end up with slow moving balls will roll back and get stuck on the switch because you’ve made it too proud.
The problem IS the ball’s location- not the switch adjustment.
Quoted from Lermods:See post 5836, I detailed this earlier. Bending that switch has been a 100% fix for me with no ball traps. Like you said, there is a little trial and error, but at least the switch is easy to access. It was a 5 minute fix. Btw, this is the same issue and fix for the hairpin turn on mando.
I think stern maybe should have used an opto here instead of a mechanical switch
You will get hangups when the switch is made too proud.
The ball is in fact riding up the rail - which is why pushing the ball back down has an impact in the first place!
Trying to find the magic sweet spot where the switch triggers for a ball at multiple heights without hangups is like chasing your tail. A simple pad on the rail makes the hunt unnecessary.
Quoted from texas_compadre:Begging your pardon, but a “stuck” switch is indeed “always closed” until one gets it “unstuck”. I don’t see anything misleading about that.
[quoted image]
One is by design… one is a temporary impairment. You don’t change a switch type by making it stuck or not.
You go on and on about your your tests and ‘discoveries’ and could have just said ‘found out my switch wasn’t opening and i needed to adjust the actuator’
Something btw you could have seen just using the switch test. You should have been lead down that path immediately when you checked the action manually and got zero switch level changes.
You go on and on building a case to debunk other people’s experience with the design by referring to your steps… which were borked from the get go… throwing parts at something while skipping basic troubleshooting.
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:With the spinner lane that's what I'm thinking... the ball has so much momentum that after it goes through the gate it ricochets back, the gate is still bouncing from being hit hard and the ball is able to slip back through. If memory serves that gate is rather short in order to give enough space for it to drop back down when the ball is in the limited space of the other side.
I'm still trying to figure out what you all are talking about. Complaints about how the ball feeds after it turns under the ramp?
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:Shots to the spinner lane can cause the ball to ricochet back out via the spinner instead of following the path down to the orbit and upper flipper. The gate that is past the spinner isn't always sufficient to block the ball from bouncing back to the left and force it down the proper path to the right.
In other words, it doesn't turn under the ramp. It backs back out the way you shot it in.
have you modified the flipper power settings?
We've operated Rushs since the start, both Pro and Premium.. and have not had anything like this. I would suspect something like an assembly error or something maybe binding/holding the gate from moving freely (look for the wire binding on adjacent plastics/posts).
The ball flows so smoothly up there I had to look at photos to even know what gate you were referring to. We never see any hesitation at the top of the turn there.
Quoted from aamauzy:What balls are people using? 125 plays and I've already got ball trails in my inlanes
That's not your balls - that just normal coil dust and rubber grime. This is normal cleaning of games. This kind of dirt should wipe right off with a nice MF or course cotton rag.
People like replacing the factory rubber with silicon rings to cut down on the dirt building.. but it's unavoidable with the coil dust.
Games go thousands of plays before you worry about the balls (assuming your balls weren't trash to start)
The issue starts with the ball leaving the guide rail right after the spinner. This causes it to hit the back curved guide dead on instead of making the turn. Then it pinballs to the edge of the guide then the opposite side.
What I can’t figure though is how the ball has enough energy or spin to come backwards back up around the curve. There is plenty of gap for the ball to keep dropping towards the orbit.
I would try adding something to the right side guide just past the spinner. Pushing the ball to the left wall and taking sone ball speed off.
Also note your game slooe and flipper settings (if you modified them [not needed on this title])
Quoted from WeirPinball:I think the reality is that Stern doesn't make the pfs
Its the opposite here... Stern didn't used to make the PFs... now they do.
Quoted from JonCBrand:Noticed this just now. The guide is not loose, should I carefully put some epoxy in there?
[quoted image]
Figure out if the guide wire broke… or just isn’t seated in the hole. If just not seated… hammer it in with a block. Don’t put it too low tho.
Seems lime the plastics around the time machine are also “should loctite” as well.
They are very narrow at points as they surround the ramp. Found our ramp binding and not going down.
Found the plastic on the left was loose and broke in two… with one piece rotated and blocking the ramp. The small countersunk screw was barely holding on in the piece that was spinning.
Really no reason this plastic should have broke unless it was moving around and got caught by the ramp
Quoted from beelzeboob:...but it WAS broke.
The v3 scoop protector isn't broke.. just ugly. Really, version 2 wasn't that bad either.. just more risk for excessive ball wear. Only v1 was really fubar.
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:It's necessary if you want to play the game the way Borg originally designed it. If you don't care about that, then no need to swap.
Sometimes the original design is defective Like the inner loop And the shooter lane...
Quoted from ian866:I'm not convinced it's related to an ESD event as there is no belt involved ??
You're referring to a static discharge.
He's talking about back EMF which happens due to changing magnetic fields when motors change their movement. Back EMF can lead to spikes that can wipe out the driver circuit.
Quoted from upsfeedr:question is there supposed to be anything here like a switch or it reads when the ball go by also can you change what ramp you want the ball to go through[quoted image][quoted image]
The action button changes which red flasher is active - which shows you which way the divertor will move the ball.
The ramp uses optos to know when the ball moves past.
Quoted from daKill:Help! I just received my Rush Premium, played a handful of games... Now it's glitched out on me, when I start a game, it keeps kicking out balls instead of 1 to launch. I'm running .97, restarted multiple times, not seeing any tech errors, running coil cycles didn't reset... any ideas? TIA
check connectors on trough boards to the node board.
Quoted from solid_snake:Sorry for the newb question but my game's tilt sensor goes off at the slightest nudge. I took the tilt bob out and it still does it. I lifted the playfield but don't really know what to look for that's causing the problem. It seems to happen more when I use the right flipper. Thanks in advance.
Look for the rod that held the tilt bob and make sure it hangs in the center of the ring. This is all on the left side of the inside of the cabinet. Make sure nothing is laying on the ring or rod.
Quoted from Ghosters:Was told warranty claims are top priorty once they arrive.
395C641C-5168-4885-AA77-484713D3B725 (resized).jpeg
Tell that to my boards waiting for months while they just did runs of the very same game…
Quoted from Ghosters:I agree with you 100%. Being in manufacturing myself, you normally order parts with the expectation that not all will be good. So if you are producing 2000 of something, you order X percentage over to cover defects. I know Stern is going through the same supply chain issues as the rest of us, so I giving them a pass for now
Nah - it's self-inflicted. This is not a new problem.
I think the sin is "Hey Stern, you just put how many new units into the field.. 300? Ok, how much did you contribute to your spares pool to cover those new 300 deployed pieces? Oh, zero? Yeah... that's a problem"
Forget overage to cover defects... they should be stocking spares based on their installed base.. and running new games increases that base, so should in turn require adjusting your spares pool (service inventory). But they don't. They will let the run be sized w/o concern for service inventory.
These are not supply chain issues - these are management decisions.
Quoted from Velux:To be fair, guess which place the profit is in, especially when you’re already behind on fulfilling orders? Sucks, but that’s the reality if it’s truly that unbalanced.
They can upsize their board orders - but don't. They were lead by an accountant... it should be no surprise that they've forever shunned the idea of carrying substantial inventory themselves. (inventory is goods they pay taxes on and have to pay to store). It's dead money costing you more money until you sell it. That's why it's always been the red headed step child at Stern.
As for profit.. remember these are the boards they are the sole provider for and they set the pricing on The margin is fine. Clearly they can get boards because they can keep making other new games - they just are not investing the up front capital to buy additional inventory. It's not like they aren't getting new boards in with these chips... they just aren't making enough to stock their needs.
Supposedly the support inventory/parts management software is a dinosaur too...
Quoted from coldbud:Thank you for the replies.
The switch isn't stuck. Took that apart. It scores when the ball goes down and stays there until the game searches for the missing ball then it shoots out. Also updated the game to 98.
Thank you.
you can't tell if it has a stuck switch by just if it kicks out a ball - the ball search by definition isn't looking for the switch state.
You need to troubleshoot the switch and opto registration in the trough. Use the game's switch tests to ensure switches are registering and OPENING AND CLOSING when appropriate. You need to use a ball too, not just your finger. The side switch in the subway needs special attention to ensure it registers and doesn't stay closed.
manually feed it balls, watch the switch states.
Quoted from Ceckitti:Has Stern stopped doing the extra plastics and key fobs in the goodie bag? Or did they forget mine?
This hasn’t been consistent between titles. Each has different things if anything. Usually just some spare decals. I don’t really remember anything with rush
Quoted from etr104:So I just received my Rush Premium and it's all set up now. I won't get a chance to fully put it through it's paces with some extensive play until later. One thing I've noticed though, while the game is sitting idle in attract mode, there seems to be what sounds like a very audible wurring CPU fan that often starts and stops. Is this normal for Stern games? My JJP GNR doesn't make any noise when sitting idle, but Rush is my first Stern.
The other thing I noticed is that the left flipper button seems to intermittently be "clicky" when pushing the button, hard to describe, but it almost feels like a burr on the plastic button as it slides through the insert. Again, I won't have time to actually open the game up to see whats happening until later, but is this normal/common? Is this just a burr that will eventually work/smooth itself out?
plastic edges/burrs on the plastic shafts are pretty common these days. You can take the flipper button out and simply sand the shaft with some fine sand paper in your hand and it will clean up.
Quoted from NickBuffaloPinball:Not the greatest pic, but I'm struggling to see any issues. What do you guys think?
[quoted image]
make sure the screw holding the shooter lane ramp is down and no issues with the transition over the ball guide. Your slow-mo will show how the ball is not leaving the shooter lane cleanly. Something is pushing it left...
Quoted from Lizard_Wizard:This screw came loose in my Rush Pro and I can't find where it came from. Oddly it seems to be the only flat head screw in the cabinet. Any help is much appreciated.
[quoted image]
isn't that the same hex head with slot used on every bracket to wood connection in the game?
Quoted from parsonsaj:Yep I had that issue right out of the chute too... switch was totally dead when first installed, had to loosen those 2 screws. Then it worked for a while, and I kept trying to adjust the blade so that it would register consistently. I suspect at this point I have over-adjusted the blade to the point that it is hopelessly bent out of shape. I've never had this much trouble getting a simple switch to consistently register! My concern now is that I've pulled the whole scoop assembly so many times that those wood screws are not going to bite any longer and I will have to fill the holes with something....
You should be adjusting the position of the switch more than bending the blade. The switch has the ability to slide a bit in that position. If you overtighten Microswitches you will cause them to bind and not toggle correctly. Just use a ball in hand and adjust listening for the click of the switch before putting back in the game. You should be able to dial in the switch while the subway is just in your hand/on bench.
Quoted from RC_like_the_cola:No offense to any mod makers, but if you correct the shooter positioning, this mod is not needed. I repositioned mine and have had zero plunger issues since. It seems a lot of these come misaligned. Just one of those quirks from hand build products.
Nah… having the open ball return lane that far up the lane just invites hits to the posts which cause the rattling.
The ball is not in a groove up there and free to wander. It’s a weakness of the layout. The shooter is just not that precise to keep a ball on the exact line every time.
Quoted from Bill2112Rush:Thanks for the lane wobble responses.
It’s surprising to me that there’s been no fix offered by Stern (with both the shooter lane and the inner loop).
Is it not affecting enough machines for them to address or is this something possibly on their “to do” list?
probably more like 'not a big enough deal/consequence' to pursue. We home hobbysts just want perfection from our games... Stern's 'tolerances' are far looser.
Quoted from beelzeboob:So for me, I had the VUK rejects constantly until I installed the Ninja fix, and I do have the rattling shooter lane issue. I never had the side scoop problem, nor the inner loop problem. So I think the problems from game to game may have varied widely and wasn't a consistent problem across all machines, which would be a good reason to release the machine as is and deal with each problem on a game-specific basis. Unlike GOT, where every damn game had an orbit issue where the ball wouldn't make it all the way around. That was pretty inexcusable, IMO.
The game was literally shipped with the side scoop feature DISABLED by default because of the flawed design. Unless you went in and manually enabled it, you wouldn't have necessarily seen the issue with the game as it originally shipped
Quoted from Ghosters:Stern indicated that it might be an insider connected issue. I just had new internet service installed and didn't connect the game to it and the old service is now disconnected. I have connected to the new access point and will see if the issue persists.
yes, locally the common trend is older games that are not IC connected, but running the newest code have been experiencing resets.
Quoted from j_m_:but that's a huge issue when it comes to these "head to head" events where people are competing on different machines. I can make mine play silky smooth which creates an unfair advantage to someone playing an [on location] machine.
The head to head events and stern's running of them is fundamentally flawed to start with (who gets in, etc) so really I don't waste an ounce of thought on the legitimacy of the evenness of the games at hand.
Besides.. most games are dialed in anyway.. it's not like this is a race based on games everyone is forced to unbox 10min before the event.
Don’t fear taking the playfield out of the cabinet. It’s very easy to do by yourself and the backbox harnesses are long enough to just set the playfield down on it’s end against the cabinet or next to it.
Really easy with two people as the weight is less. It’s easier to keep the playfield straight vertical when dropping back into the cabinet.
Spike wiring and the handle stern puts on the backboard make it really easy.
Quoted from parsonsaj:Ugh... am I the only one that is getting a persistent "OPERATOR ALERT: Side scoop device malfunction" every time the game starts up (and any ball that goes into the side scoop will only get ejected during a ball search). Stern sent me my 2nd new switch assembly today, I got it installed, verified that both the switch and optos worked properly with the whole assembly sitting in my hand (with finger pressure or using the weight of a ball), but as soon as I put the assembly back in place and restart the game I get this alert, and that switch is acting as if it's stuck closed. Very frustrated! I've adjusted many dozens of switches before and never had one this troublesome...
Screws too tight?
Make sure you test by having the ball roll by and the switch actually resets open after the ball goes by. The window is pretty small for getting proper open and close. But you should be able to get it with just the position of the switch itself.
Quoted from parsonsaj:More information... if I totally remove the microswitch from the assembly, and power up the game with it not installed, I don't get the operator alert. At that point the switch tests normally, as do the coils in the side scoop assembly. However, if I reattach the switch to the sheet metal that it mounts to, no matter how I try to bend the actuator, it seems to be stuck closed at all times and thus the operator alert... almost as if the mounting holes were put too close to the body of the scoop. Attempts to bend the tab that the switch mounts to (so it sits a bit further back from the body of the scoop assembly) have not been successful.
Slide the switch’s position more than the blade. Also make sure you are not over tightening the screws
Quoted from Ollulanus:Oh, and after a a couple hundred games I still haven't bothered to figure out what the three lights on the time machine indicate, even though I installed that (awesome) space coast upgrade on the crappy exposed bulbs, lol.
Really simple… one is song mode ready… one is combo ready to collect… the green is multiball ready (when blinking)
Quoted from Animal:Im having a problem with my drop targets resetting.
wtatumjr posted pics of lit drops and I installed them. Now, when you turn the game on and the drop targets are down, they do not reset. When you go into diagnosis and test it, the drop targets do reset. Any idea's why its not resetting during game-play?
I had similar issues with my 3 bank early on... it was physical binding making the reset movement impossible depending on how many targets were down. I could see the metal on metal wear too. Check the force needed to move the reset bar by hand.
Quoted from Animal:Thanks! Will do, although prior to changing to clear drop targets, there was no problem...
Simple alignment can cause this kind of binding
anyone have a simple explanation of what builds the combo jackpot values? I see some values jump to 15-20m real quick and I need to know how
Quoted from Bill2112Rush:Anybody else having this issue with the left ramp?
Over the last 30-40 plays, balls shot up the left ramp toward the Super Jackpot were getting airborne, hitting the SJ light, even landing in the left orbit lane. Then I saw this:
[quoted image][quoted image]
It almost looks like an adhesive is used to hold that piece of thin sheet metal in place and it’s coming unglued. Or, repeated shots up the ramp have bent it out of shape. Maybe both.
Either way, I’m curious if this is happening to others and what’s the correct way to fix it.
No - those spring steel flaps are not glued to the PF - they intentionally are flexible to handle the transition edge. The flap edge coming up that tiny amount is not really an issue.
Balls bouncing and hitting the Jackpot sign are an issue with the game period.
Quoted from DakotaMike:It's the simplest of all the solutions, and I haven't heard of anyone having a single registration problem once installed
Look more I for one (and others) have found the air ball protector method insufficient. It's still possible for the ball to go through without triggering enough of the switch.. which requires adjusting the switch up more.. which in turn exaggerates the ball hang up issue with slow rollbacks.
Quoted from DakotaMike:Hey Flynn, I stand corrected. I forgot that you still had problems with your switch even after mounting the airguard. I can't remember, did you try mounting it under the plastics? I mounted mine under the plastics, so that it would be dropped just that few mm lower. With the airguard under the plastics, there's barely room for the ball, so I'm surprised the switch still wouldn't register.
Also, never had a ball hangup on the loop switch myself. Guess I'm lucky?
I did notice that about your photo and thought the same that just that tiny bit might be the difference. I haven’t retried mine under the plastic. I need to find it again and see if my pattern can fit without conflict on the other side of the orbit. I was disappointed my initial effort didn’t work because I thought the trap from above was the most durable and best direct way to address the problem and why I bothered to make my own.
The furniture pad has held up remarkably for the last 3+ months. I see in your photo you have the mrs switch installed… or is that someone else’s game?
I have been trying to get the mrs solution in place but have had setbacks. Still working to close that with Matt (waiting on me now…)
Quoted from DakotaMike:So if I'm understanding you, you cut your own air ball shield? That's cool. I was specifically talking about the deflector made by gameroom mods though. I'm sure a person could make a version themselves that would work, since it's just a cut piece of clear acrylic, but I'm only vouching for the version that I've used personally
The idea was championed by schudel5 back in april - the product from gameroom mods would just be a copy of that I believe. And 5 months ago the only option was to make your own
I still have my latest mrs to install and try but life has kept me busy the last few weeks. And yesterday i spent my time instead rebuilding the ramp assembly in a rush before our tournament start because 6 of the 8 screws holding the nubs and plastics in had worked their way out.
That would be all of the screws i had not loctite’d last time! This time even the light board under the ramp had worked itself loose!
Quoted from DakotaMike:Reminds me, I need to check the ramp screws on my Premium tomorrow. I wonder if they are still tight?
1500 plays and amazingly, nothing has worked loose, and my nubs are still intact.
The saving grace is the ramp is extremely easy to get out to work on. Stern has been pretty good with serviceability on titles lately
Quoted from CrashJT:The 3 screws that hold the ramp in have rubber pads, so I thought that meant not to put them in too tight. Just snugged up.... Did I put them in too loose? You can see a gap between the bottom of the ramp and that metal flap. Thoughts?
Edit: ok now that i am with my game i see the grommets you are referring to. They were just so flat before i missed seeing them.
I’d just make sure yours are seated fully and didn’t move up the screw in some way.
On mine i just made the nuts snug and never had an alignment issue.
Quoted from j_m_:wow! that took the pads right off of the board with the LED
Exactly why i posted it… as it nukes the board for easy repair. It has to be manufacturing mistakes because multiple failing in the same way. It’s not like there is any physical contact there either. At worst it is the edge furthest away from any mount point so it can be vibrating the most from the scoop mechs.
This is the led board in the center near the scoops.
Our replacement finally showed up yesterday… after ordering in july.
Quoted from Gabpower:Thanks for the link, I just looked at it by curiosity and the burn marks seem to be linked to the GNDP (ground power) legs.
Like mentioned in a previous post, I would suspect that a ground wire might be responsible here. I would advise to check the connectors that goes to that board and make sure the metal pins are all the way in the plastic casing, especially the black ground wires.
It would also be good to check the grounds with a multimeter to make sure the wire itself it not faulty.
It's the ground on the analog power side... meaning it's getting blown up by too much current on the driver circuit side of the design.
It's an over current situation on the motor driver side of the design.
Given the motor controller logic is all internal to the chip sure leads one to suspect a physical issue. The chip is supposed to regulate the motor currents, so it's either getting backfed somewhere else or the reference/measuring portion of the chip is getting defeated.
looking at it again.. that LED is right on the edge of the board. Maybe it's getting caught/snagged/hit in some way in handling that is compromising them and leading to the failures.
There is almost no way for it to get hit once in the game that I could tell...
Quoted from Diamond:Just got my replacement time machine ramp bumpers. How do you get them off?
Two small screws on each side of the ramp entrance.
Use a small bit OR remove the ramp entirely by dropping the ramp out from bottom by removing the three nuts and unplug the connectors.
Quoted from brainmegaphone:Anyone have a good brand of USB stick they recommend for the update? The 64GB one I had isn't being recognized... going for something smaller. I'm assuming they need it to be in Fat 32?
partition to 16gig (leave the rest empty) and format it as fat32
Extract the zip on your computer and cooy the files (not the folder) to the drive
Quoted from vtstarman:Turned on my Rush Premium today after off for < 48 hours and noticed immediately Drum Clock and Ramp not working. No alerts before starting game. Currently getting Node 1, 8, 9, 10 not responding when going into diagnostics. My machine had been running for 2 months straight until I decided to turn it off (for no particular reason) 2 days ago and after V1.0 update several days prior with no issues following many subsequent plays.
4/22/2022 build. Already replaced Node 10 in mid May following ~5 weeks of play for common burned circuit board issue. Stern (with support from distributor) very prompt with sending out replacement node.
Haven't pulled up the playfield yet. Reboot did not resolve issue. 1st time NIB pin owner... very bummed out about what seems to be another node failure, perhaps more going on than just Node 10 but I'm a noob so reaching out to the gurus. Appreciate any suggestions of where to start?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Start with the rj45 cables at the start of the chain since everyone is down and the 48v supply path. Should be leds for voltage on the cpu too
Check the coin door interlock
Quoted from Xdetroit:Thanks for the replys! I just joined the club and added a nib pro to the line up. It has a January 2022 build date without any protection. Given this situation, what would you guys do? Contact stern for a V3 protector or go with an aftermarket protector? And which one if you recommend the aftermarket fix? Would you wait to play the game until the fix is in place?
[quoted image][quoted image]
since it's NIB - contact your distributor that sold the game to get on the list for the kit.
Quoted from Ceckitti:Which for the record.... I have my right sling rubber about to break after 500 plays.
The right slingshot on Rush is particularly bad for some reason. I'm already on my 4th... while the left slingshot is still the original I believe. It's been a weird pattern on Rush.
jesus.. at what point is Stern going address this for real? It's absurd there is no SB about things that can contribute to it and what to avoid.. unless it truly is a board defect.
Quoted from etr104:Whats your strategy for using the Weapon on multiball modes? Do you guys add a ball right away to immediately have 3 balls in play? Or do you wait until one ball drains, then immediately use your add-a-ball to keep the multi-ball mode alive longer? Or do you do something else?
always use it for a MB 'save' or extender. More balls in play isn't necessarily a good thing because its 'traffic' that blocks your shots.
Start MB... collect Mystery if you want an extra ball for cushion... use Weapon when you drop to two balls or try to time your next to last drain if you want to live on the edge.
Quoted from JoeinNJ:Has anyone had there ramp acting strange after the last update? I’m not one to blame it on a reflash but before the update I knew when it would go up and stay up. Now at times you hit the vuk and the ramp goes down or when they say the time machine is ready the ramp is down.
Very strange that this just started.
Check your connectors and switch behaviors around the ramp and Time machine. You have something physical going on.
VUK is vibration in that area.. you probably have a loose connector somewhere.
Quoted from pete_d:FWIW, I started with the furniture felt. Was completely unsatisfied. I couldn't find a spot to put it where it worked smoothly, it often slowed the ball down too much, caused trouble with balls coming the other way (whether slow shots or ejected from Time Machine
Sounds like you had too large of a piece - should not have any of the issues you outlined. The piece only needs to be about 1/4” wide or a little less. I’ve had it on my route game for months with great success.
The limitations of the furniture pad is
1- it wears and makes dust
2- slightly visible
3- does not address switch hangups for slow rollbacks
#3 is a game of reliability vs potential hangups… so to pursue zero faults I combined the mrs switch plus felt.
If i had more time (or if felt fails) I’ll go back to the lexan cover.
Honestly the felt solution has been highly reliable and ‘good enough’… which is why i have been slow to pursue further perfection.
Quoted from swampfire:Cactus Canyon remake has a bunch of inductive switches, and it’s made me a believer. They’re unobtrusive, and they work great. I wonder what the cost difference is? Seems like an opto would have made more sense for that inner loop, but maybe there wasn’t space for one.
a few reasons - the space needed for the magnet and the sensitivity. Rush is an example of a rollover… a concept they could not do with prior technology. Even the ones made now - this is the hardest form factor to make.
The distance/sensitivity tuning is very difficult to tune for any sizable distance. So when the switch can be very close to the ball… the better.
MRS switches are expensive because they are basically tailored to the specific application. Optos are robust and universal… and can be easily mass produced.
I think in Rush it’s likrly a matter of ‘too late’ and they just thought what they had was good enough. It’s tight between the two orbits but maybe feasible with slight movement of the top orbit guide. I don’t know if they had the node board space for another opto… that can be a limiting factor too.
It is ashame stern has failed to address it themselves. Moving to an overhead switch or gate are other options
Quoted from DiabloRush:(personally) I prefer a solution without a clear plastic cover over the lane as that makes playfield cleaning that much more difficult
Never buy Stern POTC The entire upper half of the PF is covered like that... a true PITA
Quoted from McDoom:I love the band's involvement which I believe is critical when making music pins.
This is a point under appreciated in the near term - but will probably play out in the long term. Much like a title like STTNG has stood out as a highlight of its era due to the incredible script and cast involvement... I think Rush will be appreciated for that as well in the long run.
Metallica was probably the closest before because of the band's callouts... where here not only do we get the band, but a lot more 'pinball' spin to it as well.
It's also something that can't easily be replicated and is easily contrasted with other titles (here's looking at you Zep!!)
Unfortunately there is still a big tax on the complexity in a lot of the rules implementation, but it's not all needed to play.. but can be the difference between avg play and exponentially different levels of scoring. Maybe that will remain the game's warts.. but ultimately the script and fun playfield will prevail in the general impression of the game.
Quoted from swampfire:To me that’s a feature, not a wart. The game rewards you for understanding the rules, and applying them in the right combination. It’s similar to AIQ and Godzilla in that regard. Stern has been killing it on game rulesets lately.
No - there are areas that are just straight up complexity tax vs the idea of having depth or strategy choices. The 'you need a calculator' to keep up mindset in many of the recent titles has taken things too far. This is not 'double your jackpot' or 'boost JP values' or '2x playfield'.. but gets way down in the weeds and are not insignificant in how scores playout even in medium level players.
For instance... how instruments are implemented.
The idea of a perk once collected, that is different from the TIMED perk, but that perk is only good till end of ball, but your instrument stays collected (because of progress towards freewill).. and all this is trying to be conveyed with single color inserts and a single icon in the UI. Forget anyone tracking/understanding doing this multiple times -- Just wayyyy too complex here for how the information is conveyed
Or for instance how combo jackpots are boosted...
you get points per combo shot.. but the points depend on the record state too... and rainbow records... and bass perk.. and bass TIMED perk. And this isn't just a 'nice to have' -- its frequently a 4-10x kind of difference in points.
Or for instance trying to track which MB is up for the time machine due to the TINY text on the UI with no indicators on the playfield
ken-jeong-community.gif
There is a difference between variety and depth and simply being too complex for its own good. Players need feed feedback on things that is easy to quickly interpret and plan around.. even on the fly. This is the simple construct behind lamps on the game giving you feedback that something is ready, active, on, etc.. and usually simple language around them. RGB gave us color swapping lights to convey things... then we turned to Speed of flashing to convey ideas... now we have 2-3 different speeds?
But instead of just software adding something that isn't readily conveyed on the PF, we've gone to the extreme the other way where virtually everything exists only virtually. Zeppelin is the poster child for this with it's ridiculous multipliers and value placing features. It screams "we didn't have any idea what the rules would be when we made the PF.. and had to come up with everything AFTERWARDS"
Rush isn't as bad as some of the other recent examples (AIQ, Zep, etc) but it flirts with the edge in many areas. Stern's approach to the screen UX is holding this stuff back too where normally the screen could bail you out, but Stern hasn't really cracked the code on that balance.
Quoted from John-Floyd:I was able to install replacements without taking off the ramp.
The ramp is suppper easy to drop out. Three nuts! It’s far easier to take it out and work on the bench.
I gauruntee you will find screws that have worked themselves out.
Quoted from John-Floyd:I didn’t even think of pulling the ramp out - plenty of room for me to easily get them both out. Took all of 5 mins to replace - Haven’t had a problem since first replacing - 100’s of games. [quoted image]
Ok… you’ll be back eventually
The machine screws in the ramp sides don’t stand a chance over time. It’s been seen over and over.
Quoted from Jesterpester:I think (and hope) I figured out our Node 10 issue. After the first time it burned, we checked over everything and saw no loose connections or anything. Got the replacement which burned again shortly after. Again not finding any connection issues. But noticed this wire tie right off the ramp motor was super tight and pinching the wires. Now we are just waiting for a new board and now a new motor and fingers crossed that stupid little wire tie was the initial issue and we don’t blow another board.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Good eye... there is a enough there that the conductors are likely compromised and given Stern has already said intermitent connection can cause the board to fail this is a very high probability of your root cause.. and something that others can easily check.
The zip tie guns are calibrated to a certain strength. If the tool isn't setup right or the operators are doing something off pattern... this can happen to a lot of games until someone catches it.
Quoted from Bill2112Rush:Good catch! Could you see any breaks in the insulation on those wires?
Doesn't matter... if the conductors are broken or insufficient for the load it's problem enough.
Quoted from Bill2112Rush:At the risk of humiliating myself, I’m gonna just admit that I don’t understand most of the STUFF displayed in the upper left corner. The game is saying all kinds of stuff: “you’ve got one!” “Shoot the right ramp” “double combo” “that’s three!” But none of it seems to match the info displayed (or, the display changes before I could catch it).
It’s frustrating because it just doesn’t make sense to me and until it does, the display is not helpful.
Here’s the screen at the start of the game:[quoted image]
The bottom one seems pretty straight forward (1-2-3 combo shots collected)
Top arrow: “2 more to light”. Two more WHAT and where? Albums? Records? All six colors are flashing…get two and then what?
Middle arrow: 0/1 and 0/2 I have no clue what these are for.
Here’s a shot during the game:[quoted image]
And moments later:[quoted image]Woo Hoo!!! I can’t remember what I did, how I did it or what I need to do next BUT the numbers are different! *sigh*
I found a YouTube video for TMNT “How to read LCD display during gameplay”. Has anyone found a video or pictorial breakdown like that but for this game?
Top tells you your progress towards starting a song mode.
Lit records qualify and boost the song mode values. So the big record in your image is telling you how many colored records left to quality a song mode.. which song will depend on what colors you collect. After you qualify, it will show you any boost to song value you have.. which is achieved by hitting more lit records BEFORE starting the song. You'll see '+10%' etc in that top portion.
The rush section below tells you about completions of the Rush targets for qualifying bastille day (start by shooting right ramp) and lighting the ball saves.
Quoted from pete_d:But to be honest, that's probably a really minor part of the game for most people. Even in Ray's video, he didn't spend a lot of time trying to match up the records, and for most of us, attempting to do so is just going to lead to frustration and the ball draining before we can even start the mode.
It's a huge part of boosting the song values though - between multipliers and boosted base values it's a huge difference. Of course, it's also tied to the huge risk
Quoted from Chazulli:I just watched the 14 billion point game by Ray (Theguyoverthere ) and have a question about using the right flippers in combination. I noticed that you were able to hold balls on the lower right flipper while using the full motion of the upper right flipper. Is there a trick to doing this? Do you just half-press the right flipper button, or is there some other technique to accomplish this?
Its called 'staging flippers' or 'staged' flipping.
The upper flipper switch is stacked with the lower flipper switch. When properly adjusted, you should be able to independently activate the upper flipper by releasing the flipper button a bit without releasing the lower flipper.
It may take adjusting the flipper switch blades to get that proper level of activation where the upper flipper will open and close with the smaller amounts of movement.
I don’t have the instructions handy. Can someone confirm for me that on the v3 scoop protector if the black spacers are on top of or under the scoop’s metal bracket?
Thx
Quoted from lospugs:Mine were on top. From the top down on my machine it was assembled:
Plastic -> Spacer -> Scoop
If I'm understanding what you're asking.
Thx thats what i found fit well.
I had pulled it apart to trim the pop bumper ring but had already forgotten they were there so when pulled it apart I didn’t get a look before they were rolling around
Finally dealt with the pop ring. The more games it had, the extra wear was allowing it to actually get bound up by the scoop.
So cutting wheel engaged!
C937A617-404F-46A5-8E27-1EDA3FF7C489 (resized).jpeg
Quoted from pete_d:Not really sure what you're asking exactly. But...
Lots of photos online you could look at. Including https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/118#post-6916215, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/119#post-6917663, https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/119#post-6917767, and of course the Stern service bulletin (https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Stern-RushScoopAdvisory.pdf).
You can’t see them as they are under the plastic. It’s covered in the install sheet for the scoop but stern doesn’t post those online. :/
I had dropped them in disassembly without looking for them before they fell out
Would be a good manual update topic…
Quoted from PinMonk:I'm talking about the service kit for under the scoop that moves the switch that detects the ball. I don't remember if that was being installed before or after they came out with the idiot sandwich for the topside.
Same time - sent together for early games. Not sure if any shipped with the scoop switch w/o the blinders but I don’t think so
Pro maybe better or whatever… but every time i play a pro… i miss our premium. So whatever it is… i enjoy PLAYING the premium more
Quoted from tktlwyr:This matters to me because I like setting my games up “factory” and I bought the game used. As you can see, there is some discrepancy on how they come from the factory.
The difference was in Pro vs Premiums...
Quoted from tktlwyr:There is discrepancy in what you’re saying versus what was posted:
Prem/le interchangeable…
Quoted from doublestack:Example- I hit green for limelight buildup my value to say 30%. Solid color shots, not even green seem to build up the value and then I'll hit another one that switches it out to a different mode. It does not seem to coordinate to anything. When you lock in the 2x I know it pulses that lane different than other flashing lanes. Is there a certain % you get to where the colors don't change the current mode? Are these based on timing? I understand what the rush targets do as the target behind the drops completely changing the mode no matter what.
Records are going to be blinking when eligible and solid when hit.
Rush targets will cycle the colors of uncollected records.
Collecting all the record shots will reset them to blinking so you can collect more records.
Making two records will qualify song start at Time Machine. Making more records past that will start boosting the song points value for the entire mode (seen on top left of screen).
So for boosted base value… the idea is collect as many records as you can before starting mode… completing all record shots to unlock more.
Hitting a solid (collected record) doesn’t do anything.
Having a shot locked to the color of the mode when the mode starts doubles scoring on that shot. (It’s possible to try to lock all the shots to your song’s color by strategically hitting them and cycling using the rush targets)
The rainbow records stay in place until draining and will be 2x,3x,or 4x shot scoring for the mode.
And which song hou play is based on how many of each color have been collected (not sure if that carries over resets or not)
Quoted from doublestack:I understand most of that for sure, the question is what makes a song change before you have locked in your mode at the time machine. Sometimes other colors besides the color of the mode you are building will either-
A. Build your % amount on the song you are on, or B. change your song mode to that new color and your percentage will roll over to the new song.
No, it's not A or B. It's both. The nuance is in matched vs unmatched records.
Colin summed it up in the tilt thread as:
"requires 2 records to light Mode Start.
-Once you collect two records (two shots are solid), then Time Machine ™ is lit for Mode Start. There will not be any “+X %” because you’ve only gotten the bare minimum # of solid records to qualify mode start.
-Let’s say you keep shooting flashing records until all 6 are solid: two of them light blue, and the other four a mix of the other colors. TM will be lit to start Tom Sawyer (the light blue mode) at +40% mode value, because you’ve gotten 4 more records solid than the 2 required to light mode-start.
-Once you have all 6 records solid, then the record shots refresh into a mix of pulsing and flashing: the records that match the lit mode color will be pulsing, and the non-matching records will be flashing. In the example above, the two light blue records will be pulsing and the other four are flashing.
-Each pulsing or flashing record you hit will give an additional +10% to your upcoming mode values. And the pulsing records will NOT change color, while the flashing records are once again free to cycle between the different colors. So you could use this phase to get a 3rd+ light blue record (giving you more Tom Sawyer mode shots that will be 2x).
- If you shoot all 6 records shots again without shooting the TM (turning them all solid from their prior pulsing/flashing state), then the “refresh” records process repeats."
The jist is your song is based on which record has the most color records collected. When you 'reset' by collecting all the available records, the shots that matched your dominate song will now be pulsing and basically stick to the color. But they are still available to boost the base value, and are needed to keep progressing beyond the current set of records (if you wanted to keep pushing further for more boost).
So in effect, your song should be set based on the record colors after you have completed the first set... because the pulsing records won't change color after you hit them.
You're chasing to get as many of the records the same color as your song choice for shot multipliers... and deciding on the risk/reward of trying to keep collecting all the record shots to boost the base value and potentially lock in more shot multipliers.
Quoted from Vespula:Okay two things. I'm hearing a mode start with a call out for Bastille Day and it's counting down. I'm supposed to do something to collect a jackpot? Eventually at times out and I know I've lost the opportunity to collect it but I just don't know what to do. What's going on and what is my objective?
Bastille day is hit rush standup targets for the value counting down on screen. hit all to reset and get more points.
It’s my opinion it was an assembly issue. We have a very early premium that has been fine. So it’s not some universal issue. Just a weakness that obviously many are hitting
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
Good finds. This is consistent with thr concern from the start… intermittent connectivity is thought to be behind the failures. Wire damage like that could have broken conductors.
People here keep talking about nicked insulation… the concern should be connectors and broken conductors.
I hope you cut out those sections in the wires and resecured with good physicality supported repairs.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Digital Level and Protractor, 10 Inch IP54 Protected Electronic Bubble Inclinometer Angle Finder Gauge with Large LED Backlight Display & Magnetized V-Groove Base Carrying Bag Included https://a.co/d/c7BCKAl
Accuracy is only +/- 0.2deg - that's unacceptable for pinball use IMO (want 0.1 or better IMO to be on par with your bubble level). I don't bother with less than .1deg because movement tends to whack that out that spot anyways.
I have all three types with me in my road bag (torpedo level with glass bubble, a digital torpedo level, and my iphone). I still goto the iphone first for simplicty and better audible cues. I only pull out the torpedos when something is sus.
Quoted from Hayfarmer:Most guys who I've seen route, level with a ball on the lock down bar anyways, so anything close is sufficient. Hell, I've seen pics here of people leveling off the glass.
We see all stupid people every day.. their existence is no reason to try to emulate them
My route games get leveled as the following. Make sure the game is in it's correct spot, check it is not leaning up on something and shake and lean on the game to check if the cabinet is wobbling due to feet or loose legs. Then remove glass, and put the torpedo level on the PF above or below the slings depending on the game's spacing... I level just above the flippers if using the phone (because there are usually good visual references to square the phone with). Again during leveling shake/lean on game to ensure it's sitting well on the floor. After leveling to within .1, I check with some quick game play to see how the ball is feeding and rolling. I will check at a second spot further up the PF if things are sus. Adjust if needed, then I lock the leg levelers, and return the glass.
I find on most games, l to r drift of .2 degrees is enough for some of the picky players to start noticing. Some games are twisted, but the movement at the lower portion of the PF is usually far more noticeable to the players.. so that gets priority.
Slope is more about how you want the game to play.. while some titles are very picky about slope in how they play. I have a target range (6.6 to 6.8 typically), and adjust just based on how the game is playing.. difficult, boring, or game-specific issues.
Some insist on only rolling the ball down the PF to check level. I find that useful when debugging something (as another reference point if you don't believe what the tools are telling you), but not as a general maintenance method. Your eyes will deceive you too much.
Quoted from orangedude71:The zipties are done too strong from the factory possibly cutting the insulation. Mine were done pretty strong but the insulation was still intact
The concern isn't as much about the insulation being broke, but about the damage to the thin wire contained inside. The ziptie pressure can basically tear/shear the thin stranded wire within. Poor connectivity in the wire would cause similar results as the poor connectivity at the pins even if insulation is intact. The insulation damage is just another example of damage the wire can take from the force and would only really be a concern if exposed to shorting. It is ancillary damage. The insulation is noteworthy here because it's a reasonable canary to tell if the wire has been subjected to excessive clamping/force by the ziptie.
Quoted from orangedude71:General set up question. When you send a ball through the bumpers and around the top and hit it with the upper right flipper held in the out position, do most of the time your shots go straight into the upper scoop? Mine used to work that way until I swapped all the rubber. Debating if I should go in and adjust the right flipper to re-create that set up.
Yes, in general a held upper flipper should goto the side scoop.
Quoted from Vespula:I think I mentioned this before that my lower scoop moves. I'm now trying to determine if this is true for everyone's lower scoop and there's some play in there intentionally? I can grab each side like the following picture and can slightly move it side to side up and down and back it shifts around on those side posts because there's play between the L bracket and the black plastic washer. Everything seems to be tight so I'm just wondering if I'm just now noticing there's play in the scoop? Next time anybody has their glass off grab your scoop like the following picture and wiggle. Is there movement?
[quoted image]
Here's the left and right side post where you can see the metal bracket from the scoop sitting under that black plastic spacer and the gaps. That allow it to move around in there. Everything is tight so it seems like maybe this play is supposed to be there?
[quoted image][quoted image]
Maybe I'm just getting to the point where I'm noticing and the play has always been there.
It doesn’t move. Ignore space between the rubber and the bracket… the bracket uses the post not ghe rubber sleeve
Quoted from Vespula:They ain't level from the factory and at the right pitch if I back all 4 feet all the way up so they are all the same all the way screwed in? I thought those were only needed when your floors aren't level....
today only American Pinball designed their cabinets that way for level with feet all the way in. Every other game you have to adjust for pitch and level.
Give yourself about 3/4" on the front legs to start, and about 1.5" on the back. Then dial in based on the pitch you measure ON THE PLAYFIELD - not the glass.
Just keep track of how many half-turns you make when adjusting so you can adjust with some sanity. When doing left to right, I find about 4 of my short turns = 0.1 degree of change.
After your game is dialed in, spin the lock nut up against the bottom of the leg (it should be between the leveler foot and the leg) and snug up so the legs don't move.
Quoted from yzfguy:Only on a long session, during multiballs it kicks a ball out and it doesn't launch all the way, then the second and sometimes 3rd also get stuck and you can't even manually get them to launch unless you time it so they have some space between them and one can knock the other out at the top of the shooter lane.
You're probably just hitting the situation of failed to launch plus multiple balls.
If a ball fails to leave the shooter lane due to rattling.. which can just happen period.. plus a second ball is served up due to MB... two balls in the lane, and the default kicking power may not clear... plus one of those balls could rattle themselves... again defeating the launch.
Just make sure your shooter assembly hasn't worked loose and watch how often balls rattle and fail to launch. The game doesn't auto plunge balls super hard... but you could boost that if you cared.
Quoted from Pingball:Is the topper a limited run?
By label? no
In practice - yes. Because Stern doesn't produce these items consistently or in high volumes. All Stern accessories that were desirable (besides art blades) have generally been hard to buy.. and once they are done with it, they don't go back and make more. And when any of that happens.. no one knows.
Artificial scarcity to help drive FOMO
I’m just even more convinced now that accessories are being outsourced.
The plastic shell is so fragile it’s really disappointing given the price point stern is selling at. You’d break this thing grabbing it anywhere but the base.
Quoted from j_m_:it's funny that you mention that. mine was the same, 2 end pieces of foam on the bottom, and 1 on the right end. nothing on the left.
and yet the 1st step of the instructions tell you to remove all [4] pieces of foam.
at $1699, I want that piece of foam that I was shorted. I specifically had my vendor overbox mine after seeing some of the damage on earlier received toppers
It's obviously sloppy work when they are packaging it. The foam in mine had two end caps and one kinda scrap piece. Only one end cap (that holds around the base of the topper was actually where it was supposed to be. Pretty sure mine looks like they broke it trying to push it down into the box.
The whole thing looks like some cheap knockoff. I still want proof these are being built at Stern.. I'm highly suspect.
Quoted from RipleYYY:about that right drift problem, let me expose :
i did not have a Rush, but get this similar problem with X-Men...
than, what worked 100% (and will not desintegrate as the foam) and was easy to do is a simple "cover" (transparent plastic), to put over that space including the switch, even more perfect here with these 3 bolts already available
A cover alone is not really enough. The ball tends to rise up the wall due to the sharp turn.. which means you must keep your switch extra sensitive (and tall) to register if the ball isn't in the ideal position. Then the problem is your switch becomes a ball hangup because slow balls can roll back and get stuck on the switch.
So Rush really needs two contradicting fixes.. you need the switch to register more wayward balls.. and also make the switch less obtrusive to avoid ball hangups. That's why I use the foam and a MRS to eliminate ball hangups entirely.
As for foam wearing... home owners shouldn't care. I've literally had the furniture pad foam on Rush since the fix was proposed and I've never had to touch it in real location play that gets massive play. Worst thing is it sheds dust vs if it was never there.
Quoted from SkyKing2301:Unfortunately, the MRS occasionally causes hangups -- if circumstances result in a ball trickling suuuuper slowly over it (e.g., perhaps two balls impact each other in that lane during multiball), the magnet in the switch grabs the ball and I have to either open the coin door and shake it like hell, or pull the glass and grab the ball with a magnet-on-a-stick.
Overall though, the benefit has outweighed the occasional hangup.
you could always shim the MRS lower with some simple card-stock under the base if that was an issue for you. I don't think I've ever had that happen in play on our game. Of course ball in hand out of game, yes Since they are hand made, yours might be slightly more proud than others. Might want to talk to Matt about that.
I don't know if putting tape over the magnet is an option too.. to prevent the metal on metal contact which would significantly reduce the sticky factor of the magnet.
Quoted from SkyKing2301:Shimming/lowering the MRS would defeat the purpose though -- which is to be triggered even if the ball were slightly airborne as it whips around the curve!
Not a big deal, it's a pretty rare occurrence and it's a home game (not on location) so it's not an issue even when it does happen.
Well the MRS is tuned with a sensitivity field... so yes, lowering it would lower the envelope of detection too, but we're talking a small distance here to break the contact you might have the range to do so. Just a business card thickness or two might do it.
Quoted from Bill2112Rush:With the code 1.12, I noticed that the Far Cry lock difficulty has changed. The default was: hit both targets on the side of the right ramp. Now, you also have to fire a shot up the right ramp before you can “lock a ball in the top scoop”.
That was always the out of the box behavior... targets, then ramp, then scoop.
Has anyone made up an insert or something to fill the triangle gap at the top of the plunger lane where soft plunges will get stuck frequently?
Its just a gap between the ramp and orbit rail
Quoted from Vespula:Honestly I've never had this happen. I think I've seen 1 other person post about it .
I do have ninja spinner fix if that might affect things.
In home play people are less likely to see it unless they play in the way that puts it at risk. Basically.. if you don't plunge that way... you're never going to see it. But in an environment with a lot more players.. you're going to see it. It's been a common problem on Sterns that use the same jump ramp into the orbit design.. but Rush's design seems to really extenuate it.
we've been trialing pindefenders on our pins (some games) and they are starting to fail. The one on Rush has had a catastrophic failure after only 3 months
We've moved to the TPU ones made by volcano pinball and have had good success so far. - https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1537-volcano-pinball
Quoted from Kez11:I have one of these (clear, though) on my LE at home, and it's hanging tough so far, but probably has a fraction of the number of plays on it as your location pins. What's the number of plays on that one?
Just too many strikes against it IMO...
- ball hangups
- harder to install
- now known to be a bit brittle
This is why I am willing to experiment with products on our games. The real test is sustained play.
You're currently viewing posts by Pinsider flynnibus.
Click here to go back to viewing the entire thread.
Wanna join the discussion? Please sign in to reply to this topic.
Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run without any 3rd-party banners or ads, thanks to the support from our visitors? Please consider a donation to Pinside and get anext to your username to show for it! Or better yet, subscribe to Pinside+!
This page was printed from https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1?tu=flynnibus and we tried optimising it for printing. Some page elements may have been deliberately hidden.
Scan the QR code on the left to jump to the URL this document was printed from.
West Chicago, IL