(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Rush song list Posted by Bill2112Rush (2 years ago)

Post #1378 RULES. Link to RUSH Rulesheet Posted by Av8 (2 years ago)

Post #1389 TECH: SWITCHES. Lockdown bar action button not working - fix Posted by PinMonk (2 years ago)

Post #1818 MOD: SOUND. Amp DIY upgrade for RUSH Posted by TinyBlackDog (2 years ago)

Post #2123 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter lane adjustment to stop rattling ball launch Posted by Coyohtay (2 years ago)

Post #3107 TECH: SOUND. Headphone Jack no-boot when installed workaround Posted by AUKraut (2 years ago)

Post #3632 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Scoop losing track of balls. Posted by Schwaggs (2 years ago)


Topic indices are generated from key posts and maintained by Pinside Editors. For more information, or to become an editor yourself read this post!

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#11024 1 year ago
Quoted from Lermods:

Can someone please post the link. I see the 23 min version, which is great, can’t seem to find the 5 min one.

Ditto. Can someone post or share the post number? Thanks!

1 week later
#11221 1 year ago
Quoted from Drussksu:

My scoop is shooting the ball straight down the middle 90% of the time. Does anyone have any tips playing around with the scoop to adjust it?

Cover your scoop with tape so you don't scratch it. Take a needle nose and try bending left, right, up, down until ball doesn't go SDTM anymore...

#11400 1 year ago
Quoted from gandamack:

If anybody out there has any thoughts on this subject please feel free to post: First of all, I hate to bring up the subject of the ramp/clock/node 10 issue, but I am hitting dead end after dead end. Yes, I have scoured every article and post regarding this issue. Yes, I have spoken with Eddie back at Stern HQ. Anyhow....
1. Ramp and clock are dead. This leads me to believe there is a node 10 issue. 2. However, I DO NOT receive the infamous "node 10 not found" message at any point. 3. When I attempt to run the Rush Specific diagnostic tests for the clock and ramp, nothing happens, i.e. there is no error message but the test simply does not perform. So, I can logically assume that the system is communicating with the node 10 board otherwise I would get the "node 10 not found" message. There is no visible damage to the chip or wires. I have spent considerable time retracing EVERY wire in the game in order to inspect for possible damage. Others have said, "oh it is because the wire bundles are tied to tight"....I do not see that. I have secured every possible connection. Frustrated.
And...no I did not buy the $500 Rush goodie bag. Salt in the wound right there....but that is a different thread.
I will be getting a node 10 board sent once Stern decides to stop putting them in new games and save a few for warranty shipments....but this could be a couple of months. But, then I will most likely be back at square one when that board goes kaput. There is some type of serious design flaw with this title and I do not feel we are getting the full story.
Thx in advance if have you advice or theories.

So I don't own a Rush pin, but I'll guess. It sounds like the node 10 boards might be fine, but something in your pin is cooking them. I imagine the node board is controlled by a cpu, and it in turn controls the clock and ramp. The node 10 kinda sits in the middle. I would look for problems / change out cpu board (if that's what drives it), the clock, ramp boards (if there are pcb's there). When you get replacement node 10 you could plug either clock or ramp in by itself. See if node 10 fry's. If not add the clock or ramp you left out and see what happens. Hope that helps..

#11402 1 year ago
Quoted from DiabloRush:

Never, ever under any circumstance power on the game without both the clock and ramp attached to the Node 10 board. This is a known point of failure. And, basic trouble shooting that includes the phrase "if node 10 frys" as a way of determining the issue is perhaps not the preferred route to determine issues, but that's just my opinion and others likely know better than me...

Ok, that's great info. What's your advice then other than throwing a node 10 board into it to get fried again?

#11407 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

check that all connections are seated properly and inspect the ramp wiring for damage.Pray

Ya, the person has said he's already done that

1 week later
-1
#11592 1 year ago
Quoted from tktlwyr:

This. There’s something causing this issue and shotgunning a new board in there each time it blows won’t fix it and will get expensive fast.

Ya, I told him that in post 11400. He's not much of a listener

1 month later
#12319 1 year ago

Hi, is there a known problem/ fix for the ball going airborne around the right loop and not registering a switch hit?

Thanks!

#12323 1 year ago

Hi, sorry right orbit is where I'm having airballs (orbit on right of right ramp.) I already have the gameroom mods solution for the inner orbit. Doesn't sound like folks are having alot of problems with the right orbit shot. I guess it may be the case of me having to make more accurate shots...

#12326 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Keep in mind the right orbit will be ignored during auto-launches for ball saves and/or multiball start -- perhaps this is what you're experiencing?
In other words, if you shoot the right orbit during a multiball while it's re-launching a saved ball you just lost, the game ignores the right orbit to prevent a "freebie" triggered by the ball launch. This happens on other games too, like my Game of Thrones I used to have.

Thanks, no this happens when the orbit is lit to score points. Ball seems go over rollover switch or go through clunky

#12328 1 year ago
Quoted from Bfults:

I have issues and have posted before with no response. I get a ton of rattle out, the ball seems to enter the right orbit fine but then rattles out before it gets to the switch. I have tried video capture in slow motion but have been unable to determine why this is happening.

Thanks. Ya video would be the only way to capture what's happening I guess. When I have some friends over playing Hopefully I can get a better idea of what's up by watching them play...

#12329 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Could it be as simple as switch needs adjusting? Is the switch causing the problem? if can't adjust the switch or its defective, replace with MRS maybe?

I don't think so, but could be. I'll definitely look into MRS web page. May not fix this problem, but good possible solution for other problems down the road

1 week later
#12477 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

I’ve been working on a Rush topper. The RUSH will be lit and I have been playing with the items to the left and right of Rush. Here’s a digital mock up and the latest version with rotating gears. This is just a mock up and only the left side has a motor at the moment.
If any of your are interested in one, please let me know. Finished toppers or DIY kits available

[quoted image]

How's Rush topper progress progressing? Any chance you could show us both sides moving and a lit Rush? Thanks!

#12519 1 year ago

Apron cards complete..

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#12625 1 year ago
Quoted from Slogan1111:

So the music & sound are as one volume? No way to seperate those? It's not terrible. I just want the music louder than the pinball sounds! Thx.

No in Rush settings area there's music attenuation and sound attenuation. To turn down sound levels increase the sound attenuation setting value

#12663 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Maybe yours was supposed to be that way like mine??
I wonder if I can just put an extra washer at the top of that post where the plastic spacer is next to the bracket to close the gap.
I'm still not convinced The scoop blinds are supposed to be tight with no movement.... like either it's supposed to move like this because other people's do, or it's just a common maintenance item that needs to be fixed when it gets loose. Obviously the delete option is there but looking SterlingRush instructions... It's a fair bit of work and I'm not there in my mind yet.
Maybe I'll ask Stern.

Like Wildbill said pretty sure they are supposed to be tight. Mine became lose a couple of plays out of the box. I tightened the screws up top and it solved the problem. If the screws uptop are tight maybe look to tighten the posts the screws go into either on top or below the playfield

1 week later
#12736 1 year ago
Quoted from epeabs:

This game is incredible. I have been a Rush fan since my early teens and seen them live half a dozen times. This game has great flow, music and style. I've had the game since April 2022 and still haven't broken 489M. Damn.... The game is leveled left to right and set at 7.5 pitch, but man, those left and right drains just plain kill me. I even have my slings powered down to like 14, and it still loves to rebound off the pops and side drain. Maybe I just plain suck. I don't know, very frustrating.

7.5 pitch is really steep. I'd try lowering the pitch. I've got mine at 6.5 - 6.6 and it's more than fast/challenging enough. Vespula ya gotta level your pins. Should be one of the first things you do when you get a game. I'd get something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Protractor-Electronic-Inclinometer-Magnetized-254%C3%9719%C3%9744-5/dp/B08CHCWXQ4/ref=asc_df_B08CHCWXQ4/

People are gonna say get this app on your phone or this little cube thing. Get whatever you want. The more surface area you measure, the more accurate it will be. As to how to level a game - search the forums, there's tons of posts on it

#12739 1 year ago

You've purchased a 7k pin. It's a $28 level. IMO I'd check it out

3 weeks later
#13018 1 year ago

With the new software update are adjustments/settings saved, or does everything go back to default including high scores? Thanks!

#13334 1 year ago
Quoted from dzorbas:

I'll just leave this right here for now...
Removing the playfield when you install the kit is highly recommended. I tried not to and it just became a pain. You'll have to disconnect 3 cables and cut a couple of zip ties to get one of the node board cables out of the wiring bundle and unplugged. Have a friend or loved one help you pull the playfield out. Much easier to complete the installation this way. And my cab did come with all the pre-drilled holes for the 2 new boards so that helped as well.
Yes, they aren't cheap! Yes, they look fantastic! Yes, they should have been included with the damn premium!

Thanks for the video, the expression lighting looks awesome! I take it you followed this for playfield removal?

#13347 1 year ago

Can anyone tell me after upgrading to v1.10 if adjustments are saved or go back to default? I guess the easiest way to tell would be if your game is still in free play after the upgrade. Thanks!

#13359 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Trout slayer born in 71. We need to fish and party.

Ha - right on! What a coincidence, I love to fish and party. One of my favorites from the B side of MP. At Le Studio in Quebec...

1 week later
#13546 1 year ago
Quoted from DanQverymuch:

Just watched YYZ in Rio again. How on earth could they have left this song off the pin? Criminal!

Probably the most women at a Rush concert ever

1 week later
#13650 1 year ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

My interlock also stopped shutting off HV after the most recent update. My district is going to send me a new switch but kinda weird that it happened on 2 newish games after an update.

Your HV switch has two wires going to it. Put your machine in switch test mode.Take another wire/jumper and short the two wires going to the HV switch. If you see it register in the test you have a bad switch. If not it's something else...

2 weeks later
2 weeks later
#14432 11 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

I dont know if this is an issue but I am running an older version it seems 0.97
Could that be my issue ? Topper works fine. But expression lights mess up the node update and stops as shown above

Most likely that old version doesn't support the expression lights. Upgrade to the latest version and see what happens....

#14460 11 months ago

So in the expression light instructions is doesn't tell you how to set the dip switches on the included boards?

#14464 11 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

I haven't gotten mine yet to confirm but all I know is The key post from CrashJT shows a node board sheet. Where he got that I don't know? Maybe it shipped with them.
And apparently the boards appear to be shipping with all the dip switches off which functions as a Node 8.
And it needs to function as a node 02 according to the sheet for optional expression lights.
You have to set the dip switches to tell the game this or you get a collision error alert because two Node 8 boards exist.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/279#post-7556704

Thanks! Ya I'm still curious if included instructions give dip switch settings. Maybe someone with expression lighting can confirm this.

#14473 11 months ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

Keypost Thanks CrashJT,read more on his origional post.
[quoted image]

Ya, that sheet came with my pro. So if in the EL instructions they say the board must be a node 2, then technically they've explained it....

#14631 11 months ago
Quoted from John_I:

OK speaking of toppers, I went through a bunch of different design changes and have landed on a really nice lighting kit that is simple to install, remote control colors, dimming, effects - and looks great! I've already shipped one out to a pinsider to test and have parts on hand to build about 25 this weekend and more to come. These contain no 3D printed parts. I hope to have them on the Space Coast Pinball Pinside shop by the end of the weekend if not sooner. Anyone who previously PM'd me will get theirs first.
I assemble these myself, so along with the parts and materials these take time and effort soldering, crimping, cutting and various other steps for each one. Also, the shipping box is 24 inches long, so I can't use First Class mail to keep the cost down to the SCP normal $5 for shipping. These will arrive faster by Priority Mail but the cost looks to be around $11 and I will check Fedex and UPS. So after a lot of consideration, I'm going to set the price these kits at $40 plus $10 shipping. Obviously overseas will be more for shipping.
Anyway here is a teaser video. The product will come with a link to a detail installation video. Edit: the camera on my phone is so good it actually make the topper look half decent even when the light kit is off. The difference to the naked eye is even more than appears in this video!

Ya what an oversight. I always play my machines in low light. Nice job!

2 weeks later
#15123 10 months ago
Quoted from Mikedenton49:

Howdy guys. Experiencing a weird problem and curious if anyone else has seen it.
Pressing the action button does not switch the lanes. It makes the noise but the flashers do not indicate a change, nor does the coil fire. Everything checks out nominal in test.
Thanks!

I found you can't just press it - try holding it down

1 week later
#15270 10 months ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:

Last resort. Hehe. Im about there though.
I just got 8 games no issues then I rage hit start while the game was still tallying end bonus and they didn't pop back up at game start. Coincidence or did I cause it miss its reset somehow and confuse it. I dunno.
Coil cycle fixes it a few games then it flakes.
I've never seen an intermittent coil. They either work or not in my experience. Bout ready to start randomly trying shit.

Try reflowing the solder joints on the drop target assembly. In other words take a soldering iron and touch solder points and heat up and let cool

1 week later
#15449 9 months ago

Pinball without beer close at hand = lame. You can mount them in front so you can get between your machines. Pro tip: when you Crack a beer drink some before putting it in the pingulp and it won't spill

20230701_141749 (resized).jpg20230701_141749 (resized).jpg
3 months later
#16642 6 months ago
Quoted from Drussksu:

Anyone else still waiting on expression lights ?

Yes. Emailed Flip n out and they said November...

1 week later
#16858 6 months ago

A 2

Quoted from Ockeyhead:

We are having a problem updating to the 1.13 code. I tried to connect our wi-fi & I am unable to get a signal. The machine also picks up our neighbors wi-fi signal. Our wi-fi definitely works since my wife can pick it up on her apple i pad.
I also downloaded the code via USB stick. This USB has been used flawlessly w/ many machines without error. When inserting the stick the machine does nothing but stay in attraction mode. Normally when inserting the USB the machine will have an automatic message of a detected download. I tried manually directing the machine that there is a new download, but the results were the same.
Any suggestions >

Try a different USB stick. If doesn't work something with your computer or bad USB reader on the board

3 weeks later
#17137 5 months ago
Quoted from barroncaliber:

bulbs ? are you for real ?

Well Comet pinball one of the bigger sellers of LED lights calls them 'bulbs'. Are you for real?

https://www.cometpinball.com/

4 weeks later
#17390 4 months ago
Quoted from tscottn:

I'm not sure what this smartbomb is.. Can someone explain?

Defender the video game. Press smart bomb and all the bad guys on the screen blow up. He's calling it that and not 'The weapon'.

#17392 4 months ago
Quoted from arcyallen:

I was in the same boat and this is what I found: Once the mode started, I'd start shooting the song mode shots but then something else would start and I'd get distracted by those shots. Every. Single. Time. Once I decided to focus only on making the song mode shots, I got to book 2 and a new high score. Another small detail: I often have a drink or two while playing at night, and I realized my play was much better consistently if I didn't drink. On all my games.

You just need to develop your pinball drinking tolerance

#17397 4 months ago
Quoted from RipleYYY:

lol guys & sorry about the "smartbomb"

I got it - but then again I'm old

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