(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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#8801 1 year ago
Quoted from konjurer:

You can opt out. The only features you're missing are the ones you don't want to try because they are part of the insider connect. It's easier than ever to access the features. They even let mere mortals experience the wizard modes without having to earn them. Personally, I think the insider connect is amazing. It gives me MORE visibility to the features of the game not less. It gives me more feedback on things I've achieved and things that remain for me to conquer.
What could Stern possibly track that could harm you? Let's see... they can see which features people are using, metrics on bugs and usage, how people are using the game so they can improve and make better games, possibly do remote support, send you new code without having to go through the hassle yourself. They're not Facebook, tracking your every move via GPS and listening in on private conversations.

Agree with you. I wonder if these folks use cell phones. They track your every move using radio location as their primary function. Cell phones with computers in them (eg. Android & iPhone, etc.) capture this and much much more.

#8802 1 year ago

Been using the internets all this time and potentially being tracked?!
Why didn’t anyone warn me?

#8803 1 year ago

Random question for the Canadians in this thread. What kind of coin mechs are Stern machines shipped/sold to Canada with? (ie games bought through Player One or Nitro)?

My only experience in buying a new pin so far has been my JJP GNR which came with US Quarter coin mechs installed. Is this also the case with Stern?

(And yes, I know these are easily swapped out, I'm just trying to plan ahead for what parts I need to order)

13
#8804 1 year ago

Almost exactly two months after receiving my Premium and after 241 plays, I joined the three comma club!!!

IMG_1250 (resized).JPGIMG_1250 (resized).JPG

Only completed two song modes, just kept multiballs going and going and going and going for about 35 minutes.

#8805 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

just kept multiballs going and going and going and going for about 35 minutes

That sounds brutal, in a great way.

"And the prize for winning at pinball? More pinball!"

#8806 1 year ago

Picked up this shooter rod at Southern Fried. Pretty happy with how it fits the motif. And the watch actually works if you wind it daily.

20220810_175915 (resized).jpg20220810_175915 (resized).jpg20220810_175940 (resized).jpg20220810_175940 (resized).jpg
#8807 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicman:

Picked up this shooter rod at Southern Fried. Pretty happy with how it fits the motif. And the watch actually works if you wind it daily.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks good, how much?

#8808 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Looks good, how much?

I think they normally sell for $110. If I recall, they knocked off $10 as a show special. Also have their Eight Ball shooter rod on my EBD. Good products.

#8809 1 year ago

For those with Node 10 Issues. WARNING Do this with power turned off and even better, unplug the machine from the outlet before proceeding. Double check the 4 pin connector cable going to the ramp stepper motor, this is the one with the yellow warning tag on it. Make sure the individual cables in the 4 pin connector are seated properly. Especially check the black ground cable. There have apparently been issues where the ground cable was not clicked/seated into the connector properly and it was possibly causing the node 10 board to fry. I checked my cable and all cables/pins and they seem to be properly seated. I thought I would pass this on just in case it was the cause of your node 10 problems. Once again do not mess with this cable if there is any power going to the machine. Unplugging it under power will likely fry the node 10 board, this the big yellow warning tag.

Node 10 cable to ramp stepper 4 pin (resized).jpgNode 10 cable to ramp stepper 4 pin (resized).jpg
#8810 1 year ago
Quoted from konjurer:

I tried loosening the 4 screws and shifting the scoop but it didn't solve the problem. There was not enough play to correct the eject. Then I added the two washers solution and it fixed the problem. Perfectly returns to the right flipper every time. Place the two washers on the two left side screws as you're looking at it from under the playfield (between the wood and the scoop). Trust me.

I had the same problem - lots of SDTM ejects and not enough wiggle room from just loosening the screws and twisting the scoop to correct the issue. Inserted two very thin washers between the playfield and the bracket and its much better now, but still very inconsistent results. May try boosting the coil power on that mech just a bit and see if that helps with consistency. Otherwise, I'll look for some possible slop in the coil bracket or a slight misalignment. I must say that getting those 2 washers behind the bracket while the playfield was vertical was quite a challenge.

#8811 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

What exactly are they tracking? How many games you play?

Ok, so "track my every move" is perhaps a bit melodramatic, but yes, they are collecting data points on you every time you use IC. Because you have to create a profile, the collected data is not anonymous, and while it may not cause any real harm, some people aren't comfortable with companies doing that. That's why some folks use browsers like DuckDuckGo instead of Chrome or Edge. Vegas has been doing this for years now. Some players love the IC and others don't. I get it. My point is that you shouldn't be forced to create an account with Stern and sign into their data collection in order to enjoy all the songs and modes programmed into a game that you purchased. That's all. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

#8812 1 year ago
Quoted from Ghosters:

For those with Node 10 Issues. WARNING Do this with power turned off and even better, unplug the machine from the outlet before proceeding. Double check the 4 pin connector cable going to the ramp stepper motor, this is the one with the yellow warning tag on it. Make sure the individual cables in the 4 pin connector are seated properly. Especially check the black ground cable. There have apparently been issues where the ground cable was not clicked/seated into the connector properly and it was possibly causing the node 10 board to fry. I checked my cable and all cables/pins and they seem to be properly seated. I thought I would pass this on just in case it was the cause of your node 10 problems. Once again do not mess with this cable if there is any power going to the machine. Unplugging it under power will likely fry the node 10 board, this the big yellow warning tag.
[quoted image]

This is really great information, given it seems to be the first solid cause anyone’s had, and probably worth making a key post, @mrossman5.

-1
#8813 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Agree with you. I wonder if these folks use cell phones. They track your every move using radio location as their primary function. Cell phones with computers in them (eg. Android & iPhone, etc.) capture this and much much more.

Agreed. Slightly off topic, but people are freaking out because Amazon wants to buy iRobot (Roomba robot vacuum company). Everyone saying Amazon is going to spy on you with the vacuum, which is ridiculous - much easier and better ways to do that. I wrote about it here:

https://www.neowin.net/news/editorial-amazon-didnt-buy-irobot-to-spy-on-you-or-learn-where-your-couch-is/

#8814 1 year ago
Quoted from Magicman:

Ok, so "track my every move" is perhaps a bit melodramatic, but yes, they are collecting data points on you every time you use IC. Because you have to create a profile, the collected data is not anonymous, and while it may not cause any real harm, some people aren't comfortable with companies doing that. That's why some folks use browsers like DuckDuckGo instead of Chrome or Edge. Vegas has been doing this for years now. Some players love the IC and others don't. I get it. My point is that you shouldn't be forced to create an account with Stern and sign into their data collection in order to enjoy all the songs and modes programmed into a game that you purchased. That's all. Now back to our regularly scheduled programming.

Newsflash: Robin is collecting data on you when you use pinside. https://pinside.com/pinball/help/privacy-policy

I'm more worried about IC itself having a security flaw since I doubt Stern is security focused, so I recommend putting your machines on a guest network that can only access the internet and not your home network.

#8815 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Random question for the Canadians in this thread. What kind of coin mechs are Stern machines shipped/sold to Canada with? (ie games bought through Player One or Nitro)?
My only experience in buying a new pin so far has been my JJP GNR which came with US Quarter coin mechs installed. Is this also the case with Stern?
(And yes, I know these are easily swapped out, I'm just trying to plan ahead for what parts I need to order)

Canadian machines come with 1 slot for $1 coins and one for $2 coins. Typical these days is 1 play for $1 and 3 plays for $2.

I think Stern is the only pinball maker that does this for the Canadian market. Others need to be swapped if going on route.

#8816 1 year ago

If you bump the machine and avoid some SDTM drains, your score will improve. But your shoulders will get sore. LOL!

#8817 1 year ago
Quoted from Ghosters:

For those with Node 10 Issues. WARNING Do this with power turned off and even better, unplug the machine from the outlet before proceeding. Double check the 4 pin connector cable going to the ramp stepper motor, this is the one with the yellow warning tag on it. Make sure the individual cables in the 4 pin connector are seated properly. Especially check the black ground cable. There have apparently been issues where the ground cable was not clicked/seated into the connector properly and it was possibly causing the node 10 board to fry. I checked my cable and all cables/pins and they seem to be properly seated. I thought I would pass this on just in case it was the cause of your node 10 problems. Once again do not mess with this cable if there is any power going to the machine. Unplugging it under power will likely fry the node 10 board, this the big yellow warning tag.
[quoted image]

Here's an example of the issue. You will notice that the black gound cable is not seated propery in the connector. It should be even with the green connector. WARNING. Do not addresss this issue with the power on.

Bad pin in cable harness (resized).jpgBad pin in cable harness (resized).jpg
#8818 1 year ago

So I just received my Rush Premium and it's all set up now. I won't get a chance to fully put it through it's paces with some extensive play until later. One thing I've noticed though, while the game is sitting idle in attract mode, there seems to be what sounds like a very audible wurring CPU fan that often starts and stops. Is this normal for Stern games? My JJP GNR doesn't make any noise when sitting idle, but Rush is my first Stern.

The other thing I noticed is that the left flipper button seems to intermittently be "clicky" when pushing the button, hard to describe, but it almost feels like a burr on the plastic button as it slides through the insert. Again, I won't have time to actually open the game up to see whats happening until later, but is this normal/common? Is this just a burr that will eventually work/smooth itself out?

#8819 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

So I just received my Rush Premium and it's all set up now. I won't get a chance to fully put it through it's paces with some extensive play until later. One thing I've noticed though, while the game is sitting idle in attract mode, there seems to be what sounds like a very audible wurring CPU fan that often starts and stops. Is this normal for Stern games? My JJP GNR doesn't make any noise when sitting idle, but Rush is my first Stern.
The other thing I noticed is that the left flipper button seems to intermittently be "clicky" when pushing the button, hard to describe, but it almost feels like a burr on the plastic button as it slides through the insert. Again, I won't have time to actually open the game up to see whats happening until later, but is this normal/common? Is this just a burr that will eventually work/smooth itself out?

Stern buttons tend to be a little clicky out of the box. They'll break in shortly and stop doing that.

Also, that is fan noise you are hearing. And normal for Stern. Many people replace the fan in the power supply for home environments.

#8820 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

So I just received my Rush Premium and it's all set up now. I won't get a chance to fully put it through it's paces with some extensive play until later. One thing I've noticed though, while the game is sitting idle in attract mode, there seems to be what sounds like a very audible wurring CPU fan that often starts and stops. Is this normal for Stern games? My JJP GNR doesn't make any noise when sitting idle, but Rush is my first Stern.
The other thing I noticed is that the left flipper button seems to intermittently be "clicky" when pushing the button, hard to describe, but it almost feels like a burr on the plastic button as it slides through the insert. Again, I won't have time to actually open the game up to see whats happening until later, but is this normal/common? Is this just a burr that will eventually work/smooth itself out?

Pull the button out and sand it smooth, just some residue on it still. Takes 5 minutes. Cpu fan is normal

#8821 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Pull the button out and sand it smooth, just some residue on it still. Takes 5 minutes. Cpu fan is normal

That's a more direct solution! Although, I've found they wear smooth pretty quick from playing anyway.

#8822 1 year ago

Appreciate the quick replies, guys. I'm sure I'll have lots more questions as I figure the game out. Thanks again!

#8823 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

So I just received my Rush Premium and it's all set up now. I won't get a chance to fully put it through it's paces with some extensive play until later. One thing I've noticed though, while the game is sitting idle in attract mode, there seems to be what sounds like a very audible wurring CPU fan that often starts and stops. Is this normal for Stern games? My JJP GNR doesn't make any noise when sitting idle, but Rush is my first Stern.
The other thing I noticed is that the left flipper button seems to intermittently be "clicky" when pushing the button, hard to describe, but it almost feels like a burr on the plastic button as it slides through the insert. Again, I won't have time to actually open the game up to see whats happening until later, but is this normal/common? Is this just a burr that will eventually work/smooth itself out?

That fan noise is very typical of all newer Stern games... for unknown reasons they won't switch to a quieter fan.

Pinmonk sells an excellent replacement quiet fan kit for $18. I put them on all my games. Makes all the difference in the world...

#8824 1 year ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

That fan noise is very typical of all newer Stern games... for unknown reasons they won't switch to a quieter fan.
Pinmonk sells an excellent replacement quiet fan kit for $18. I put them on all my games. Makes all the difference in the world...

I never notice, can't hear during play, and if I have a game on, it's usually in dj mode. But I agree, they are louder than they should be

13
#8825 1 year ago

Did you guys see the surprise performance of Geddy and Alex at the South Park 25th Anniversary gig on Aug 10th? Closer to the Heart.

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#8826 1 year ago

After Installing Ninjas fixes , I had the side ramp left to tweak .After lubing the gate ,I dropped the back left leg 1/4 inch from level dropping that ramps pitch just a little bit and it has completed this game for me .All this and the new pass through code fix has landed Rush on the moon IMO I can now officially say this is the smoothest flowing pin I have ever played period .

#8827 1 year ago

I sure appreciate all the Rush Premium tips, particularly regarding those tiny machine screws holding the time machine ramp in place and the blue rubbery pieces that take a mean beating from the balls at very high speeds.

I didn't notice the screws falling off until the whole left side of the ramp was falling apart. I had lost (and subsequently found in the bottom of the cabinet) 3 of them, found the appropriate holes that bound the 3 pieces together and screwed them back in and it worked. Maybe 10-15 plays later one of the screws was out again. I'm grateful for the advice to get some Loc-tite and I intend to unscrew all of them and re-screw them with that--I hope it's not messy.

#8828 1 year ago
Quoted from Kkoss24:

After Installing Ninjas fixes , I had the side ramp left to tweak .After lubing the gate ,I dropped the back left leg 1/4 inch from level dropping that ramps pitch just a little bit and it has completed this game for me .All this and the new pass through code fix has landed Rush on the moon IMO I can now officially say this is the smoothest flowing pin I have ever played period .

Yeah, such a smooth shooter. Still can't believe some of the Pinside ratings that say the game is clunky! Can't understand that perspective at all.

#8829 1 year ago
Quoted from CloverleafKid:

I sure appreciate all the Rush Premium tips, particularly regarding those tiny machine screws holding the time machine ramp in place and the blue rubbery pieces that take a mean beating from the balls at very high speeds.
I didn't notice the screws falling off until the whole left side of the ramp was falling apart. I had lost (and subsequently found in the bottom of the cabinet) 3 of them, found the appropriate holes that bound the 3 pieces together and screwed them back in and it worked. Maybe 10-15 plays later one of the screws was out again. I'm grateful for the advice to get some Loc-tite and I intend to unscrew all of them and re-screw them with that--I hope it's not messy.

Put the loc tite on a toothpick, not much more is needed for such a small screw. And use Blue, not red, if you ever want to remove

#8830 1 year ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Just to close the loop on my playfield for anyone who cares. I sent some pics of the playfield to my distributor and asked if he thought it looked normal (I did this at the same time as my original post on this forum). He forwarded the pics to Stern. They asked for a few more pics from further away, which I provided. They quickly offered an unpopulated playfield as a replacement. My distro asked if they could send a fully populated playfield instead (and I'd send back the original). They agreed. That is excellent customer service across the board in my opinion, from Stern and my distro. It required nothing more from me than 2 emails with a few pics, and I don't have to spend any time removing and re-installing mechs and worrying that I'm going to slip with a screwdriver.

Hmmm. My distro told me about 2 months ago that Stern had authorized a replacement playfield for me (unpopulated). I’m fine with unpopulated, but I’d sure like to get it in 2022.

#8831 1 year ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

That fan noise is very typical of all newer Stern games... for unknown reasons they won't switch to a quieter fan.
Pinmonk sells an excellent replacement quiet fan kit for $18. I put them on all my games. Makes all the difference in the world...

I'll let you in on a little secret. it's not an unknown reason, it's because a quieter fan will cost stern more money than what they are currently using

10
#8832 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I'll let you in on a little secret. it's not an unknown reason, it's because a quieter fan will cost stern more money than what they are currently using

I don't want to come off as a Stern apologist, because I'm definitely not, but they're using a standard Mean-Well RSP-500-48 power supply and that's the fan that runs loud. It's almost certainly the fan Mean-Well ships them with. If Stern was to swap out the fan, it would probably void the warranty on the power supply and I doubt they'd want to be shipping out thousands of power supplies that they can't get their supplier and/or Mean-Well to replace if they fail at a young age. Also, I have other Mean-Well power supplies with forced air cooling and they're ALL loud. I think this is really a Mean-Well problem. That said, Stern could definitely try to find a different power supply that is quieter out of the box, so they're not totally innocent here. They've consciously moved forward with this power supply despite the complaints from home users.

#8833 1 year ago

I'm getting ready to stick a Noctua A4x10 in my PSU - I have used them in network gear that has been decommissioned from enterprise use with good results. Gear that used to screeeeeeeeeeeam would be near-silent with no signs of heat issues since it's being used in a cool well ventilated basement, and under minimal load compared to what it was designed for.

#8834 1 year ago

Cool shooter rod mod I just made using a $16.95 gear shifter from Amazon. Also did one for my Elvira.

440D15FD-532A-43F1-A632-0D5C7717682F (resized).jpeg440D15FD-532A-43F1-A632-0D5C7717682F (resized).jpeg98B1DFA4-3C0F-4397-931A-710FE4C91E96 (resized).png98B1DFA4-3C0F-4397-931A-710FE4C91E96 (resized).pngE89C27AB-18CE-4664-B89B-8C0968E9A3FE (resized).jpegE89C27AB-18CE-4664-B89B-8C0968E9A3FE (resized).jpeg
#8835 1 year ago

Okay 2 more questions from a noob at this game.

If the ball goes around the right orbit at a high rate of speed (either from the flippers, or from an auto-plunged ball), the ball will go around, between the pop bumpers and straight down the middle. Is this a leveling issue? Or is this an issue where I need to bend a rail/guide to stop this from happening? How common is this issue your you all?

Second issue, if the ball goes under the upper flipper it rolls into the shooter lane (by design I'm assuming), where I have to manually plunge the ball. Is there a way to set the game to auto-plunge when this happens? Or is there a strategic purpose to having the ball go down the shooter land like that?

#8836 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Okay 2 more questions from a noob at this game.
If the ball goes around the right orbit at a high rate of speed (either from the flippers, or from an auto-plunged ball), the ball will go around, between the pop bumpers and straight down the middle. Is this a leveling issue? Or is this an issue where I need to bend a rail/guide to stop this from happening? How common is this issue your you all?
Second issue, if the ball goes under the upper flipper it rolls into the shooter lane (by design I'm assuming), where I have to manually plunge the ball. Is there a way to set the game to auto-plunge when this happens? Or is there a strategic purpose to having the ball go down the shooter land like that?

It's strategic: You get a skill shot attempt. During multiball, it auto launches.

Not sure if that's a setting or not though.

#8837 1 year ago
Quoted from OutpostKodelia:

I don't want to come off as a Stern apologist, because I'm definitely not, but they're using a standard Mean-Well RSP-500-48 power supply and that's the fan that runs loud. It's almost certainly the fan Mean-Well ships them with. If Stern was to swap out the fan, it would probably void the warranty on the power supply and I doubt they'd want to be shipping out thousands of power supplies that they can't get their supplier and/or Mean-Well to replace if they fail at a young age. Also, I have other Mean-Well power supplies with forced air cooling and they're ALL loud. I think this is really a Mean-Well problem. That said, Stern could definitely try to find a different power supply that is quieter out of the box, so they're not totally innocent here. They've consciously moved forward with this power supply despite the complaints from home users.

They've talked about this before and also mentioned that they spec the games to operate in extremely hot conditions. Alternate fans may work fine in home environments but not hold up in some of the conditions Stern tests for. Better to have a slightly loud game than one that overheats when left in a sunny window in Nevada

#8838 1 year ago
Quoted from murfe88:

Cool shooter rod mod I just made using a $16.95 gear shifter from Amazon. Also did one for my Elvira.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

looks nice.how did you attach to the shooter rod ?set screw or glue ?

#8839 1 year ago

The gear shifter uses 3 set screws. I had to shave down the existing black shooter rod so it fit into the new dice gear shifter then attached it with the three sets screws that came with it .

A45D6092-976D-4CB0-9989-5E88FA631CB1 (resized).jpegA45D6092-976D-4CB0-9989-5E88FA631CB1 (resized).jpegDA94CC89-A7D5-4B31-A9C0-23854E5B18E8 (resized).jpegDA94CC89-A7D5-4B31-A9C0-23854E5B18E8 (resized).jpegE30FFB34-8AF2-40ED-9585-9525D00E729D (resized).jpegE30FFB34-8AF2-40ED-9585-9525D00E729D (resized).jpeg
#8840 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I totally agree with you. For the price they are charging, one should expect a properly cleared playfield that allows the ball to roll properly.
This same thin and/or missing clear was on many of the NIB games (not just Rush) on display at SFGE this weekend. I don’t know why we should accept this lack of quality.
I guess on the plus side - without clear you will not have pooling.
[quoted image]

Playfieldprotector.com 100 EUR. Worth every penny.

#8841 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

The other thing I noticed is that the left flipper button seems to intermittently be "clicky" when pushing the button, hard to describe, but it almost feels like a burr on the plastic button as it slides through the insert. Again, I won't have time to actually open the game up to see whats happening until later, but is this normal/common? Is this just a burr that will eventually work/smooth itself out?

Funny you say that…my left button is doing the same thing. But since I plan on replacing the buttons with a different color soon I have just been ignoring it.

#8842 1 year ago
Quoted from murfe88:

Cool shooter rod mod I just made using a $16.95 gear shifter from Amazon. Also did one for my Elvira.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

I kind of like this!

#8843 1 year ago
Quoted from VisitorQ:

Oh man, I think the QR reader is one of the best mods Stern has came up with to be honest, I love it. With that said, you could unplug it on either end for the light to go out. It's a simple Ethernet cable.

I love it too. Makes me really want to play Stern’s new games.

Here’s an idea for them… Add a camera to the cabinet so can play live with friends remotely; picture in picture on LCD; bluetooth for audio. You could add friends for remote play. Hum, couldn’t see the action though. Ok, probably why they haven’t done this. Ha.

#8844 1 year ago

Anybody else having the clock minute hand occasionally not move since .98 code?

Happens every once in a while on the first ball it seems. Clock time is advancing on the screen via the pop bumpers but the minute hand not physically moving. After a drain the clock hand catches back up and then works fine for the rest of the game.

#8845 1 year ago

Here's another question. This might be more of a general Spike2 question rather than a question specifically about Rush. But on my Rush premium, my clock (and system time) keeps reverting to exactly 4 hours off of the correct time. No matter how many times I go into the settings and change the time to the correct time, upon reboot it ends up 4 hours off.

I've got my machine connected to Wifi, so I'm assuming that every time I boot the machine, the clock gets synced up with an NTP (network time) server on the Internet, however the timezone is somehow set incorrectly.

I can't find anywhere in the settings to change my timezone. Where do I go to do this??

#8846 1 year ago
Quoted from DrDQ:

Anybody else having the clock minute hand occasionally not move since .98 code?
Happens every once in a while on the first ball it seems. Clock time is advancing on the screen via the pop bumpers but the minute hand not physically moving. After a drain the clock hand catches back up and then works fine for the rest of the game.

I just had this for the first time the other night. If you go into clock test that doesn't work, either.

Power cycling fixed it for me (it was like this for every ball in the game).

#8847 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Here's another question. This might be more of a general Spike2 question rather than a question specifically about Rush. But on my Rush premium, my clock (and system time) keeps reverting to exactly 4 hours off of the correct time. No matter how many times I go into the settings and change the time to the correct time, upon reboot it ends up 4 hours off.
I've got my machine connected to Wifi, so I'm assuming that every time I boot the machine, the clock gets synced up with an NTP (network time) server on the Internet, however the timezone is somehow set incorrectly.
I can't find anywhere in the settings to change my timezone. Where do I go to do this??

Make sure the address or at least city and state are accurate on your Insider Connected account. The machine uses that to set your time zone.

#8848 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

Make sure the address or at least city and state are accurate on your Insider Connected account. The machine uses that to set your time zone.

Ah good call! I connected the game to my wifi, but I never configured Insider Connected yet. I'll do that shortly. Thanks for the suggestion.

#8849 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

If the ball goes around the right orbit at a high rate of speed (either from the flippers, or from an auto-plunged ball), the ball will go around, between the pop bumpers and straight down the middle. Is this a leveling issue? Or is this an issue where I need to bend a rail/guide to stop this from happening? How common is this issue your you all?

On the two machines I play on it happens at times. Adjusting the auto plunge strength my help there, leveling could help tweak it too. I've taken some slowmo video of the ball going through there to watch what happens. It doesn't seem to be anything that adjusting current guides would help. The ball has some room to rattle around as it gets to the last turn in the orbit and how it exits that turn determines if is straight through the pops or not... beyond the turn it generally doesn't touch the sides at all. I wanted to start up a conversation with NinjaCamp to see if there is the possibility to clip something to the right side wireforms that helps to push the ball to the left guide plate but also doesn't impact left orbit shots. (@outpostkodelia, not sure if you've done any poking in this area yet...)

#8850 1 year ago

Hello Everyone. There is a Premium Rush machine for sale in my area and I'm thinking about buying it. But I noticed there are there are issues with the mystery scoop protector and a switch assembly for the lower side scoop. Are the fixes covered under warranty and would I be able to get them if I'm the second owner?

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