And don't ever call me coward again Shirley

I read this thread pretty religiously and don't remember seeing that. What's causing it?

HOLY SHITTTTT
This machine right here...

I was thinking the scoop lid might be easier to “adjust” with pliers. Or Perhaps a very small flathead screwdriver could help create a gap. I would think a couple of mm would do the trick.

The spinning clock is big tits. So freakin cool.
Lotta fuckin shots here WOW

I like the lock behind the instruments,I have had a ball locked but only been able to hit the locked ball every once in awhile.

If Stern doesn’t plaster this all over their marketing materials, time for a new marketing team

I've played at least 50 games on .9 and this never happened... till tonight. Happened twice to me. Eventually the machine found them after doing a ball search, but I agree. Probably an odd bug.

Yes, I've had it happen a time or two myself. All of the balls will drain then it just sits there. After a minute or so it will eject the captive ball in the scoop.

Stern factory protectors were getting beat up and affecting ball travel after less than 50 plays with no Stern idiotsandwich replacement kits in sight yet, so I pulled them off and made a mylar cover that fits both scoops. This picture is just plastic I cut to make sure of the fit before I installed the mylar, which I'll do tomorrow. Once I get mine installed and verify it's all good, I'll put it in the pinmonk store for like $20 for those that want to go the mylar route to protect the RUSH scoop cutouts.

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Does this only function on Freewill? I played a bunch of games and it was never activated. Then on Freewill it engaged finally. Think they need to improve the code to make this function more.

So based on this picture, you're not extending protection down into the hole? Just applying mylar to the playfield?
You think the Ninja protector will affect ball travel?
Still trying to decide what I'm going to do about mine, as continued play is definitely curling the metal that's supposed to be flat on the playfield.

Yeah, just going up to the bevel and reinforcing the interior with clear nail polish. For the sake of simplicity. A wrap around mylar that goes into the hole would be a drag to install and likely not stay put that well without additional screws, etc under the PF. I'll keep an eye on it and report any issues that may crop up, but I don't expect any.

EDIT: I don't think the TPU one will affect ball travel, but not sure how it will stand up to direct constant abuse. Interested to see how it works out since this location is . Maybe a new avenue of protector if it proves itself.

I found out last night that you can Shatz the drop lock Felt great !

Received my Inscribed Solutions coin door for my Pro this morning.

The fit is perfect and it really finishes out the machine on the pro!

The only problem now is that I’m going to have to get one for my GZ Pro when it comes in. Otherwise that one will look naked sitting next to Rush!

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Looks great!
Can u post a pic including the backglass? Just curious what the ‘whole package’ looks like together.

Expression lights are ON now.
Pablo from Stern walked me thru it.

Checked power supply connections to Node board . Then followed power line up into the top cabinet area below back glass.. CN4 ..it felt connected but needed to be reconnected..

Hope this helps .

Pablo said the scoop fix is not completed yet, when it is , the distributer will reach out to us and send the fix to us.

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Apologies for the glare. The dog toys are free. Game on and off.

I’m definitely a fan!

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My issue more than the protector bending is the ball gets stuck all the time. I have to pull the glass every day.

Blows my mind that NinjaCamp has a fix out faster than Stern...

The interesting thing here is that it will do this during a live game, and then play continues after the ball search clears the scoop, so it seems like software to me...and yes, I've read through this whole thread...

I took the easiest sound upgrade route - added an external subwoofer I had by alligator clipping speaker wire to the cabinet speaker terminals and running the wire through the vent holes in the back/bottom of the cab. Doesn't make the volume louder but it makes it sound so much better. It's like the difference between listening to an old AM mono radio vs. stereo FM radio. Tinny and thin sound vs. full sound. I'm sure the sound would improve dramatically by swapping the stock speakers with something better, tweaking the EQ, etc etc but I don't want to spend a bunch of time and money to mod up what is already an expensive pin. Subwoofer is simple and makes a noticeable difference.

Bottom line - if you have a subwoofer in your house, give it a try.

That’s what I would do or even maybe tin snip

Hoping this is what its looking like down at Ninjacamp.....need protection asap!!!!

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That’s what I did, makes the bass a lot more full. Only difference is I removed the screws in the existing speaker and then you can easily run the wire through the existing hole. Don’t have to deal with removing the staples at the back.

I do this for every pin and you can run 2 pins for every one sub. It seems collectors like to spend more money on their pins and that's cool too. ...and If you choose not to decide, you still have made a choice!

Thats alot of 3D printers

https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/most-3d-printers-operating-simultaneously

I was notified yesterday my ninja shipped! Very quick,

Thanks everyone for the ideas for potential fixes for the pop bumper interference. Think I’ll start with the least invasive fixes and go from there

I didn't remove any staples - just pried up the mesh in back with a flathead screwdriver. Snaked the speaker wire through and then pulled the flathead. Zero actual mods to the cabinet.

My only concern about doing this is whether or not adding the sub like this will blow the built-in amp? I only know enough to make me dangerous

In regard to requesting the fix from Stern, I received this yesterday:

Our engineering team and production team are currently working on this scoop issue fix. Once the fix is available, if your game needs it, your Stern distributor for this purchase will reach out to you.
Thanks,
Stern Pinball

If you run the amp as a line input - there is no additional appreciable load to the game's amp. It's high impedance to not draw power/load from the output.

looks good with the side mirrors.. im holding out for the expression lighting that will be a great improvement for the Pro...

It's pretty easy actually. Outlined a method earlier in an earlier post and it stays put just fine and protects well.

Your products are great, but if folks can operate a pair of scissors and an an xacto knife, they would be better off spending $20 on a giant roll of mylar and/or buying the ninja protector.

I don't have this problem on my game, but I had it on my WOZECLE only the pop ring was hitting a metal ball guide instead of a scoop. I just took a sharpie and marked the area on the ring that was making contact. Then removed the pop ring and used a Dremel to remove a small part of the ring. Pretty simple fix and didn't alter game play.

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Thank you very much for the responses, and the direct links. I'm trying to get up to speed here, but it's tough to digest in one or two readings.
Did you source your own micro switch replacement, and have you shared that source? I know you mentioned that Stern is working on it, but I'm never sure exactly what that means. My distributor tells me to contact Stern, and Stern tells me to get with my distributor, so it's never clear who is actually doing anything with some of these fixes (ie: the scoop protector fiasco).

Thank you again. I'll keep reading.

I completely forgot that the lighting might conflict with the mirrored blades! Whenever it becomes available I’ll have to take them off to put in lights.

Late last night I went to play a few games and my flippers weren't working, and the clock and 4 of the flashers and G.I on the bottom of the playfield were just pulsing with a small flash. I checked the diagnostics, and it looks like my number 8 node board has gone bad. Emailed Stern today and they are sending a replacement. But interestingly when I first opened the coin door and dove into the menus, the game told me that I was running 0.90 code and that a 0.91 code update was available. I downloaded and installed it over Wi-Fi, and all of that went well, but I won't know what changes that made until I get the replacement node board. Went to Stern's download page and I don't even see 0.91 in the updates yet. Surprised no one else has posted on the update. I'd be curious to see the update "read me".

No disagreement here. This'll strictly be a service for those that can't operate a pair of scissors or xacto knife with precision or don't want the hassle of making one.

This rule always confuses me during the game: "Starting a song mode does not prevent progress towards time machine multiballs, and time machine multiballs can be started during song modes"

As a very average player, it's hard for me to keep the various rules straight. When I'm trying to figure out the requirements of a mode (basically, I'm just aiming for the colored arrow shots) and suddenly I have a multi-ball with a completely different song, it takes a sec to figure out what's going on. It feels totally random when I'm in the moment even though I know it's not.

Thanks. I keyposted your summary.

Yep, I plan on it once I make a detailed list and take better pics.

I just can't believe how bad this is, everywhere I look something is fudged up.. Pop sticks down due to scoop, over tightened posts bent and clear mashed down to wood, missing ramp screws, euro power cord etc. 2 Other pinsiders I know are dealing with their own issues too, so I'm thinking this isn't just a lemon.. - Sucks seeing it's the first NIB Stern for me. (and the last) Bummer

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Simple breakdown... the time machine progress/goals are not locked out by starting a song.

If you start a time machine multiball, it's simply overlaid on what is going on. On rush, shot colors can be confusing in this situation... but if you know the song objectives, just know those are still out there (usually just hitting key shots enough)

And the entire internet just ran to their machines to try to download the code. My Pro says .90 is the latest. But I bet they will be releasing an updated one soon given what you just said!

Ok. Did you set it to 4 OHM or 8 OHM?

I just used a micro switch I had in my stash. This is the same switch that has been used in pinball machines for years. The problem is that the force to activate the switch varies from manufacturer to manufacturer and worse from switch to switch in manufacturer batches. I replaced my switch with the exact same model and manufacturer switch and the new one stays closed while the original doesn’t.

So it’s a crap shoot if replacing the switch will solve the problem. That is why I say it’s a bad design that Stern needs to update.

We need everyone that has this problem to email stern to tell them that your physical ball lock is not working and goes into ball search after locking a ball. The more people that complain, the faster they will work on a fix. Parts.service at Sternpinball.com

This is the switch part number.

https://www.pinballlife.com/williamsbally-ball-detect-blade-with-roller-sub-microswitch.html