(Topic ID: 308430)

RUSH Pinball Official Owners Club-“Straining the Limits of Machine and Man”

By mrossman5

2 years ago


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Topic index (key posts)

36 key posts have been marked in this topic, showing the first 10 items.

Display key post list sorted by: Post date | Keypost summary | User name

Post #91 Rush song list Posted by Bill2112Rush (2 years ago)

Post #1378 RULES. Link to RUSH Rulesheet Posted by Av8 (2 years ago)

Post #1389 TECH: SWITCHES. Lockdown bar action button not working - fix Posted by PinMonk (2 years ago)

Post #1818 MOD: SOUND. Amp DIY upgrade for RUSH Posted by TinyBlackDog (2 years ago)

Post #2123 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Shooter lane adjustment to stop rattling ball launch Posted by Coyohtay (2 years ago)

Post #3107 TECH: SOUND. Headphone Jack no-boot when installed workaround Posted by AUKraut (2 years ago)

Post #3632 TECH: PLAYFIELD. Scoop losing track of balls. Posted by Schwaggs (2 years ago)


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#292 2 years ago

Hi All. First Pinside post for me. Glad to be here. I ordered the Premium with an April build date just before the "Official" release. It's my first NIB. I really wanted a Limited Edition, but it seemed like Unobtanium. Rush is my favorite band so I was just over the moon when I saw the teaser! Hopefully Stern can make a decent fix for the scoop. For now, I guess I'll order some mylar. Why wouldn't Stern be adding a custom cut mylar to that area since it seems to be high wear anyway? Seems that a decent mylar and a HQ Cliffy might work?

Thanks for all the great insight you have all been posting!

1 month later
#2215 2 years ago

I'm super excited. Ordered the Premium on 12/30. FedEx called today to schedule a delivery on a pallet.. a game. Oh boy! Can't wait till Wednesday! My build date was "supposed" to be April.

11
#2336 2 years ago

My Premium has arrived!!! Build date of April!!! Yee Haw!!!!

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#2361 2 years ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Your distributor gave you a build date of April and it arrived in March? Did you know it was coming that quick or did it just arrive out of the blue? Open it up...maybe you got an LE by mistake, lol.

That would be nice. No it's a Premium. I think Stern is trying to "catch up". I'm happy so far!

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#2398 2 years ago
Quoted from freakandgeek:

Come on bro...send us a sideview pict!

Sure!

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#2442 2 years ago
Quoted from John-Floyd:

Added a trough light,Dalmation mod, and one flasher cover. Also changed the default settings from “extra easy” to “medium” and find the game a lot more to my liking.
[quoted image]

I like what I see here. How does it look when the Hoot Again lights are illuminated? You mentioned "Ice Blue" but I only see "Blue" in the Lermods pinside shop. Is this what you have? Thanks in advance.

Jim

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#2447 2 years ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

I like what I see here. How does it look when the Hoot Again lights are illuminated? You mentioned "Ice Blue" but I only see "Blue" in the Lermods pinside shop. Is this what you have? Thanks in advance.
Jim[quoted image]

Thanks Lermods. https://lermods.com/shop/ols/products/rush-pinball-led-strip-trough-light-kit

#2567 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

Louisville
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for posting the right side. Put mine right up to a wall and can't enjoy it!! Hope you have a much fun as we've been having!!!

1 week later
#3383 2 years ago
Quoted from Syco54645:

Can anyone tell me what size the sd card is in this game. A friend's is down because of SD trouble and I was going to order him one. Of course cant get ahold of the friend right now.

It needs to be Class 10 or higher (speed) but 8GB is the current size needed. I bought a 16GB SanDisk as was shown as it was under $7 on Amazon. When you image it, it will show 8gb format.

15
#3389 2 years ago

My experience so far with Rush Premium has been awesome. My wife and I are huge fans of the band. (We're fortunate enough to appear in the game singing "conform or be cast out" in Subdivisions, and "kindness that can kill" in Freewill.) I've owned arcade games since the mid 90's, and this is my first NIB experience. So far it's been fantastic. I think the artwork is sublime. I like and respect all eras of the band and live that Michael has tried to incorporate as much as he was able to, without it looking like some sort of hodge podge scrapbook. I love the Test For Echo touches on the Premium. I know a lot have discussed issues with the cartoonish portrait in the center of the playfield. I've read every post, and I do agree to some extent with some of the criticism,. Maybe it's because of my Red Lenses, but It harkens back to the dreaded (but beloved) kimono era. The cartoonishness, to me, adds to the campiness of both that Rush era AS WELL AS that campy era of Pinball art in general. And for this reason,
I love it! The default sound was honestly "fine" for a pinball machine, but the addition of the Pinwoofer system definitely allows you to hear a lot more. Treble of Neil's varied cymbals, bells and whatnot, as well as the intricate bass lines of Grddy's. It's not a must have, but you likely have already spent 8K to 12K, what's $370 more to make it sound fantastic (for home ). Friends who WEREN'T Rush fans say playing makes them want to listen to more Rush, which is great. I love it, because when your favorite song moments cross with the adrenaline Rush of blowing up the game and seeing all of this glorious lights, it burns that euphoria into your cortex! My wife on the other hand, isn't a huge arcade/ pin person and so is hearing the repetitive music from afar and it is making her less interested in hearing Rush. I get that too. I've had on the Far Cry ball lock since the beginning. I love it. Super cool! I haven't seen any glitches in .90. I've seen people complain that they can't see the ball locked from the player position. I'm 6'1" I can't either, but it's pretty obvious. Unless you're in the middle of another multiball, the whole game pauses for a second or two for your to enjoy the fruits of your labor! A red light appears in the window, the lightning strike video showing the concert footage baby carriage on the pier and the words "Far Cry Ball Locked" also appears. A white flashing light in the window washed out the red during the lightning! Cool effect. If you need to see it, stand on one for foot, put one leg behind and bend at the torso and you'll be able to see it sitting there. Maybe the window is more for onlookers, but that red glow means something! Trust me, it's there! When you finally lock the second ball with the side scoop flashing green, "Far Cry" is shown and both scoops eject balls simultaneously! It's badass!! The Clockwork Angels Drum Clock is also very cool. It has 12 "hour" leds and a minute hand. It's in memory of Neil Peart, which I think is cool. When not playing, it shows the actual time. When playing, it has two functions. During "Working Man" mode, it regulates the length of the mode as you use the drum bumpers to move it from 9AM to 5PM to complete your work day. It also starts The "Headlong Flight" multiball when you make it it strike midnight. I also like the ball lock behind the drop targets. If you hit the captured ball it releases, but eventually it just returns it into game play. Not exactly sure what causes the variation, but it's fun. I've added a bunch of cool mods like the Signals Dog and Fire Hydrant as well as the Presto rabbit in the hat (thanks Rocket City). Also the Roll The Bones dice (thanks WilliPinball mods) on the slingshots and two Clockwork drums on the left back two flashers. Also PinMonk's color mode light mod. Lermods ice blue trough lighting really makes my owl pop! Looking forward to a Red Barchetta, some Cliffys and a Wizard Mod Test For Echo action button magnet. Maybe a gefilter! With regard to the scoop, I have rev 2. 150 + games in, zero ball scaring, bottom scoop looks fine, slight wear on side. I would be pissed if the playfield were damaged, but mine seems fine. Would rather have an intensely fun game with one of a kind features, than a perfectly boring game delivered late. To me these are all hand built, unique and one-of-a-kind pieces of industrial art. That's part of what makes them unique and special.
I really wanted a LE, but didn't have enough clout, this being my first NIB. I'm jealous and hope you all are loving your babies! I'm very happy with the art of the Premium, Moving Pictures being my favorite album. I will be getting the Expression Lighting, probably the Side Armor and the topper.
I hope any issues are resolved quickly for everyone and that you enjoy yours as much as I love mine.

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#3393 2 years ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

Ok - you need to elaborate on this!
Glad you love the game. It is easily my favorite pin right now.

Being Rush fans, when we heard they were filming the Time Machine tour in nearby Cleveland, we attempted to get tickets. The scalpers had them at insane prices eg $1200 each. I suggested we see them in Hershey PA which we did in the front for $200. It was about a week or less till Cleveland. We were pulling out of the lot after the show, and my wife is working feverishly on her phone. I'm like what are you doing? She says, I just bought us tickets to Cleveland. She claims the prices dropped, because the show was soon, but still won't tell me what they cost. (When I mentioned Rush was coming out with a pinball last December, she said let's use the house fund!) She's a real fan.
Anyway, on the drive to Cleveland, I probably didn't need to, but just in case, I made my final plea. It may sound stupid, but it's a lifelong dream to be in a concert video, especially Rush! So tonight, I don't care if you have a migraine, you'll sing every word to every song and pump your fist the whole time! We can't control where the cameras are, but if a camera happens to pass by, I don't want to end up on the cutting room floor because we aren't into it. Luckily, we ended up in a lot of it. Some of it is in the game. I may be in Spirit Of The Radio, but have yet to see it for myself. I first confirmed our appearance in Jack Danger's twitch live stream during Limelight Multiball. Discovery (pun intended) is here

Most of our shots are here

#3397 2 years ago
Quoted from TinyBlackDog:

So cool. Thanks for sharing!
I saw them 5 times but never sat in the first 20 rows. Really glad some of those clips made it into the game.

Thank you! Glad you were able to see them. They were a one of a kind band.

#3542 2 years ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Ok the video is up! See quoted comment here for some of the stuff to watch for.

Wow!!! I was sold on the Expression Lighting before, but I can't wait! Also, DUDE, that was an awesome ball!!!!! Ha ha. Thanks for posting.

#3544 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Ok, part two of the flipper coil temp testing for RUSH is done - Tibetan Breeze active cooling fans installed on each
[quoted image]

Fwiw, I ordered before reading this! After a long day of work, I've been playing at least an hour of Rush, and these will come in handy. Thanks!

#3609 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So after playing a lot more, I'm of the mind that 0.90 is just losing track of balls sometimes.

I've played at least 50 games on .9 and this never happened... till tonight. Happened twice to me. Eventually the machine found them after doing a ball search, but I agree. Probably an odd bug.

#3635 2 years ago

In regard to requesting the fix from Stern, I received this yesterday:

Our engineering team and production team are currently working on this scoop issue fix. Once the fix is available, if your game needs it, your Stern distributor for this purchase will reach out to you.
Thanks,
Stern Pinball

#3831 2 years ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

...some have the 3rd revision, some have the 2nd revision...

I agree. I wish people reporting would include the actual date of manufacture that's shown on the back of the machine lower down near the bottom. Otherwise everything is complete hearsay.

My Premium built 3/4/22 had rev 2 scoop.

#3832 2 years ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

...some have the 3rd revision, some have the 2nd revision...

I agree. I wish people reporting would include the actual date of manufacture that's shown on the back of the machine lower down near the bottom. Otherwise everything is complete hearsay.

My Premium built 3/4/22 had rev 2 scoop.

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#3836 2 years ago
Quoted from gandamack:

Which revision, 2 or 3, is the blue thing(s)?

Good question!
My understanding:

Rev 0 - no protection
Rev 1 - thin tin protector with ears down into hole
Rev 2 - stronger metal, no ears, forks to screws
Rev 3 - blue erasers, updated ears under playfield.

#3847 2 years ago
Quoted from swampfire:

What I’d like to know is whether any Premiums are getting wear at the upper scoop protector. Mine still looks brand new after about 500 plays, and my theory is that they switched to a better metal around the time they started making Premiums.

Mine is slightly tweaked at around 250 plays...
I do have mylar. Maybe will do what epeabs did... Thoughts?

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#3937 2 years ago
Quoted from Nstone4425:

Ha sorry.
I should have clarified why for me I needed the ground loop kit.
After the installing my Pinwoofer kit I was getting a little bit of what I call white noise from the speakers. I asked Dan about it and he suggested I get that part. He said sometimes there's whitenoise other times there not.
Before ordering I moved my cables around to see.if it helped. I figured 16 bucks is pretty cheap so why not. After installing in my backbox the noise is gonna.

FWIW, my Premium and just pinwoofer Super Spike kit sounds great. No ground loop issue. Highly recommend this product.

#4106 2 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

Small strip of furniture felt. Invisible from the players perspective, registers evey time. Feeds perfectly.
[quoted image]

M&M CREATIONS - Magnetic Reed Switch (MRS-Rush)

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#4109 2 years ago
Quoted from donjagra:

Small strip of furniture felt. Invisible from the players perspective, registers evey time. Feeds perfectly.
[quoted image]

M&M CREATIONS - Magnetic Reed Switch (MRS-Rush)

Quoted from gripwhip:

Anyone having switch rejection from the right loop? The switch does not depress and the ball come back at you versus going around the orbit. This happens to me on some flipper hits and auto-launching from the shooter. Worked with Stern and replaced the switch, but same issue.

If you've installed any lights using alligator clips, make sure they're not under the Roll over slot.

#4111 2 years ago
Quoted from gripwhip:

Anyone having switch rejection from the right loop? The switch does not depress and the ball come back at you versus going around the orbit. This happens to me on some flipper hits and auto-launching from the shooter. Worked with Stern and replaced the switch, but same issue.

If you've installed any lights using alligator clips, make sure they're not under the Roll over slot. Take a look under there and see if something is blocking that wire from moving (even a stray wire).

#4138 2 years ago
Quoted from gripwhip:

How much was the Magnetic Reed Switch? I wonder if that would fix my issue.

The MRS-Rush was around $43 after shipping and insurance. A few dollars less without insurance. It has no wire sticking up to feel the ball. It uses magnetism instead. This allows it to identify the ball when it's in the air above the switch (at least 1/4" to 3/8" roughly). This helps when the centrifugal force causes it to climb the wall on that bend. It registers a lot better for me. If you've never heard Alex say 4 hundred thousands, 5 hundred thousand, 6 hundred thousand etc as you shoot the ball around that loop, you should try this switch.

#4230 2 years ago
Quoted from hank527:

Monopoly money makes me cringe. It’s also the inflection like they are just reading lines.
I love the band Rush up until Presto. This callouts make me cringe.

Have you seen the video for The Big Money? It's a monopoly board.

1 week later
#4787 2 years ago
Quoted from DRDAVE:

... anyone else getting tired /ear fatigued with certain call outs? Namely Geddy Lee's " its 9am time to get up numbnuts." And Alex Lifeson " You owe me a quarter, and with interest, that's 2 quarters." And the monopoly money comment as well. Too many times for all of these through out the game. Would love a way to turn these lame ones off as there are better ones they do that aren't monotonously lame like these 2 are. And yes, I turned the humor call outs to the minimum and still it had no effect. - long time Rush fan since the early 80s.

I happen to LOVE the callouts! For me it's part of what makes Rush Rush. That being said, in the "Rush" menu, there is a setting to change how frequently you hear certain callouts (humor). Mine is set to frequent. I wish there was an even more than frequent setting.
! Because of the frequent setting maybe, I hear a lot of different callouts, some only one ever! Some a little more repetitive. If you don't have this "dialed down," maybe try that first. If you DO have it dialed back for a while, maybe go crazy and try "frequent" and see if it adds to the variation? Let us knew what you find. Mine is firmly set on the highest setting.

#4792 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

These dice lights are awesome! Where'd you get clear dice? What size hole? What glue? Details!

Thanks!

#4813 2 years ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Ugh. Im in the middle of installing my ninja scoop on my LE. Was putting posts back in. Dropped tool….first time ive ever messed up a playfield. Chipped a small area near the inner ramp. You wont be able to see it from the players perspective, but i know its there. Ugh. Im an idiot. I put a small piece of mylar on it. I guess thats all i can do?

That sucks, but I'm glad it's in an inconspicuous place.

#4835 2 years ago

I put a piece of thin cardboard (piece of a business card) between wires and bracket and played two games without issue.

That's awesome news! I feel bad for your situation, but you killed it!!! Way to go!

1 week later
#5178 2 years ago
Quoted from kool1:

If it's holding for 100 games it will hold for 1000.
Very good news.
I just hope mine isn't lost in the mail.

So if my original Stern held up for 300, will it hold up for 3000?

#5180 2 years ago

Yay! They just arrived!

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#5183 2 years ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

Where does the switch go?

If you have an LE or Premium, the 'trough switch" kit replaces the existing Far Cry ball lock switch in the subway with a more reliable design. I've had my real ball lock on ALWAYS instead of the default NEVER since 3/9 and have only had a few hiccups, but others say theirs sucks. This fixes that. Check here for documentation and install video by Jon Borg.
https://sternpinball.com/support/rush-kits/

#5186 2 years ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Interesting that they ditched the roller switch in the kit.

Yes. This is a curved piece of steel. Will be installing all of this today. I'll let you know...

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#5191 2 years ago

Fwiw, I just installed the two Stern kits per Stern directions. It wasn't hard at all. The only funky part was dialing in the new trough switch before putting in the new screw that holds it in place. Maybe I was just unlucky, but I guess the way the switch was, it was being depressed without a ball. Maybe spend an extra 5 seconds double checking that before loosely attaching the two opto screws closest to the kicker and note that they're going into plastic, so a light touch on them. Have only played a few games so far, but will try more tonight.
For those worried about their playfield with version 2 protectors (with the forks on top), my experience was that in over 516 games (lifetime 558) my playfield had a very light scratch on the left edge of the front scoop on top of the thin black outline. It's under the new protector now (or any you'd choose to install except possibly Mantis if you did no top protection.) The pictures show the scratch and the rest of that stuff is wax that got under the protector. Pics are a bit out of order, there are 2 of the old fork and protectors. Rest are new. Obviously your mileage may vary.

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#5206 2 years ago
Quoted from kmad:

Video on the install scared me but glad to hear it’s not too bad. How long did it take? On a different subject since you mentioned wax, I’ve been wondering wether to wax the entire playfield or just the would and not wax over the embedded lights? Thanks for any insight!

I set aside 2 hours and used most of it. I was slightly distracted with other things. I wouldn't rush through it (no pun intended). I read the paper instructions and also watched the Jon Borg video during the time. I would bet that if you did all that in advance you'd save a lot of the time. Probably doable in an hour.

For waxing, I cleaned with naptha and applied Blitz Wax with microfiber towels. I put it nearly everywhere. Over the plastic inserts for sure. And up the orbit and inner orbit where I could reach. I used only Novus 1 on the plastic ramps. I also blitzed the time machine ramp, but after that I got some really crazy up the TM ramp jumping to the right plastic return ramp a few times, etc. And wondered if it was bad to do that one! What do others think?

#5207 2 years ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Recieved my m&m switch today, about a 10 minute install and works 100% now. Great product and design. Thanks!

I agree.

#5221 2 years ago
Quoted from CUJO:

Would you let us know how you like the latest Stern kit, esp. if the black rubbers up front rebound the ball hard back at the flippers or STDM?
I'm hoping that rubber absorbs most of the balls energy.

I've played 24 games today. I got my high score tonight which is more than double what it had been. The pads have little effect on the overall game. Yes, I did hit them a few times, probably 3 or 4 and they do absorb the energy, but one time it did drain, but I kinda flubbed hitting it . I would strongly suggest putting the pads on as it is nearly the last thing you do, and very easy to undo should you decide to. There are 3 small #2 Phillips head screws that hold on the top piece of plastic with the dice on it. The front two are what holds the pads on. To be fair, you might also need to loosen (but not remove) 2 smaller #1 flat head Phillips Head screws that hold the 2nd piece of plastic to the pop bumper to get the big squareish bracket out. Probably takes about 5 minutes or less to install or remove.

#5235 2 years ago
Quoted from ccw2112:

Is this the magnet switch that replaces the upper loop wire switch? I remember talk about that. Link please? Thank you !!

Send a DM to "Sonic" via pinside mail. Ask for "MRS-Rush" (Magnetic Reed Switch).

#5239 2 years ago
Quoted from schudel5:

For those that have changed out the side scoop lower lock switch, what is different about the new switch? I see that it's not a roller actuator but a rounded half-loop. But if there's just a single side hole for the actuator what is different about the switch and the reason for the different bracket? Does the new actuator go further into the hole? I'm trying to understand what's actually changed.

I should have looked at it closer inside, but I didn't. That was a mistake. One of the big changes is that it has a steel foot that after you adjust it, you bolt the foot into the playfield so it's held very still. The old one is held on only by 2 screws into a soft plastic opto, which COULD get stripped and make it wobble and not function properly. (My old one seemed to work fine, only had maybe 4 ball searches in 400 games... ) I haven't really "Noticed" anything in 30+ games, so I guess that's what you want. Oh and they changed this out back months ago, so many pinsiders might already have it installed. My machine ISN'T supposed to have the old one based on the SN. (Machine built 3/4/22, but playfield built 2/19/21 per ink stamp near left front underside.)

#5241 2 years ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

... There are 3 small #2 Phillips head screws that hold on the top piece of plastic with the dice on it. The front two are what holds the pads on.

Correction, there are two (other) 1/2" #2 Phillips heads that hold the pads on below the first plastic. ( See two screws at front of image. )

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#5245 2 years ago
Quoted from Craiger:

Did not know the fix had been implemented on some machines already. Realizing it’s probably more of a guideline than a rule, Do we have a build date for before/after?

The advisory says "all numbers before 330402C" but that's probably an educated guess. My machine is several hundred past that number, and I had the old switch setup. Again, machine built 3/4/22 but playfield dated 2/9/22. If you stick you phone in there on selfie mode, to the left side behind the node board, that's where the date is on mine. t's easy to tell with your playfield up, just look at the side scoop of your premium/le and you either have the squared off edge connected on the left by 2 screws, or the angular (45°) metal attached by one screw on each side with a foot screwed into the playfield on the right. Pictures of both below and one of the advisory from https://sternpinball.com/support/rush-kits/

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#5249 2 years ago
Quoted from Craiger:

Thanks man! That’s handy. (Also, shame on me for not looking at images of that advisory closer!)

No problems!

#5259 2 years ago

I've had a 2021 car for a full year. # of times waxed zero. Rush pinball 40 days old, waxed 2x. After cleaning and waxing tonight played several games. At one point I heard a noise and saw tiny screw on the playfield... Game was going well, so I continued... (poor decision). Thought i could "stop" it if things got bad. Fast as lightning, the ball knocks the screw down to the flipper and before I could process (information at half speed), I flipped. The screw went flying. Stopped the game and turned it off. Opened the glass and looked around at playfield level for about 10 minutes or so. Couldn't find it anywhere. Wondered if it may have fallen down below. Noticed that tiny things can travel under a lot of the stuff in there including the inner loop and orbits. Thankfully I noticed that the bottom of the orbit back wall also has several gaps under it. Plugged all of those with rags I had handy and began to slowly lift the playfield. Head the rattle of a tiny screw falling towards the back and stopped. Found the scree next to a rag stuffing one of the gaps. Turns out the screw fell out of the left side blue bumper on the Time Machine ramp. Put some blue lock tite on it and reinstalled. Was going to do it to the other 3, but the other left screw seemed tight, and the right side screws seem impossible to test without ramp removal. I'll save that for another day. Lessons learned: 1. If you see a lose part on the pf, stop! I think I was pretty lucky it didn't damage the pf or get lost. 2. The orbit has gaps under it. Block them if something like this happens to you. 3. Gee, you notice a lot of things you've never noticed when you have a flashlight with your ear to the playfield looking underneath everything! 4. Maybe pulling the playfield till it is sitting on the playfield support rails would make waxing the outlanes and other stuff easier.

#5263 2 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Is that a huge crack in your left eraser? How many plays do you have on it?

There are 557 plays (599 lifetime). I was going to tell you no cracks, as it was fine when I waxed it, but you are right, it's now cracked! I believe it happened when the screw came out!

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#5265 2 years ago
Quoted from sudsy7:

Wow, that wasn't even the one I was talking about. I was looking at the black rubber on the idiot sandwich (your post #5241). Looks like a chasm on the left side has opened up?

That's actually the way it came. It kinda like a seam, but other side doesn't have it. ?? BTW, before I read this I looked up the time machine bumper 625-5123-00. A going to order from pinball life, but the ones they have are a different part number, so pulled out the super glue and made a temporary fix. Maybe that's what's on the black one from Stern???

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#5292 2 years ago
Quoted from jid:

Red Barchetta added. Contrasts the dog and hydrant perfectly.[quoted image][quoted image]

Where'd you get the Owl? It's cool!

#5418 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

People have been making comment to up the size and use 2 1/4" I believe, maybe the 2 1/2", but I believe it's the 1/4" step up.

Every time I clean/wax, have been turning these about 1/4 spin around so they wear evenly. I don't see any deterioration like on yours. Maybe go with that bigger size, but also rotate it?

#5419 1 year ago
Quoted from Apollo18:

Changing out the switch for a magnetic one.
How often does the new switch register?

I've had it in for a month. Much higher than 90%. Maybe 97%+? Has missed a few times. Note that my upper flipper was at 180 till I installed the Stern fixes last weekend.

#5440 1 year ago
Quoted from tdiddy:

Undecided on this one
[quoted image][quoted image]

That's pretty awesome!!! Either that or the sausage time one!

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#5442 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

So did they have more than one set of these on stage? Brainiac and the Popcorn one are missing from that set.

The sausage time was from the Time Machine tour and was the tour after the one Diddy made ( I think it was Feedback Tour? ). The brainy / corny one came first I believe.

#5443 1 year ago
Quoted from PinMonk:

Concert pic of that. Looks like the base lettering lights up.
[quoted image]

Yes, the lettering would light up in sequence. One after another.

#5455 1 year ago
Quoted from SteelNation:

I’m still toying with this one I made and posted a while ago. [quoted image]

Those are AWESOME!!!!!

#5473 1 year ago

What are these grey posts attached to the slingshot plastics for? Are they supposed to stop a flying ball?

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#5618 1 year ago
Quoted from aamauzy:

Has anyone here put a shaker in their RUSH? Is that functionality even available in current code? Just occurred to me that I haven't really seen any mention of shakers since the first round of cabinets went out a while back.
While I sit here impatiently hoping for a magic "hey your cab is ready!" message, I'm looking at accessories.

I installed a shaker into premium. I'm not thrilled with it. Maybe I'm missing something. Have it set to factory default. The bass boost shake from the Pinwoofer seems a lot cooler.

#5656 1 year ago
Quoted from J-drum11:

Inner loop switch.
Tried a couple fixes so far and still not 100%
I read awhile ago about A magnetic reed switch. Did this work?
Is anybody come up with a fix for 100% register yet?

For me, the Magnetic Reed Switch is really good. I don't remember the last time it didn't register.

11
#5668 1 year ago

Ok, this arrived and is awesome!!!! Words can't describe how much cooler this looks in person!! I saw some snarky comments, and you're entitled to your opinions (but you're wrong).

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#5669 1 year ago
Quoted from usafstars:

Hit them up with a PM, they don't have a store:[quoted image]

The handle to PM is Sonic

The switch is great!

#5700 1 year ago
Quoted from Aniraf:

I need this, where do I buy it? .

I don't think you'll be disappointed. Looks totally cool.
Get your vacuum tube mod here
https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1312-space-coast-pinball/06768-rush-time-machine-simulated-vacuum-tube-led-upgrade-kit

#5701 1 year ago

For those installing the Ninjacamp VUK protector, I have a simpler way to install the backstop piece. I basically followed their pdf except for a few spots...

This is abbreviated a bit assuming you've already read the official doc.

My simpler steps:
1. Remove the mech
2. Drop playfield and sit on two supports in front.
2. Insert the tpu backstop piece and rotate it counterclockwise it'll it stops.
3. Using 3" of scotch tape, fold over last 1/2" to make a "handle". Using the rest, temporarily tape the tpu backstop to the wire behind it (right side of inner loop). The goal is simply to keep it upright for a few minutes. Doesn't have to be perfect or pretty, just basically in the right neighborhood.
4. Lift playfield and insert duck bill as directed. Ensure you're fluffing the tpu on the top side from underneath to make sure the leading edge covers/ protects the wood properly.
5. Do step 2 again. Fluff tpu as needed carefully with edge of small screw driver or toothpick (safer). Remove scotch tape using handle.
6. Reinstall mech, test, etc.

This is a TON easier than removing the wire form etc. Works great!

1 week later
#6044 1 year ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:No. But it can make a shot into the side of the protector that smashes it pretty good. Mine has some nice rash on it after 200 plays.

I'd bet you still have the old flimsy one installed.

#6090 1 year ago
Quoted from schudel5:

Have any LE owners put the Stern v3.0 black nubs on for the main scoop?

I have. They are fine.

#6165 1 year ago
Quoted from jpc211245:

Any suggestions or comments on getting a new one is appreciated.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Email Stern support. They will send you out a new one. They've been very good with regard to replacing defective parts.

#6223 1 year ago

I dug out a few "Choice" Rush Tour shirts for a recent Prog Cruise. I only wear for "Special Occasions." I picked ones that related to the Rush pinball machine for the cruise. I'm sure others have similar cool tour memorabilia. Here they are.

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#6333 1 year ago
Quoted from Pinstym:

I got 2 stuck in the vuk. Coil fired a bunch of times, but the balls wouldn't eject..

Go into setup Rush and bump up the VUK power a bit. This resolved for me. Give it enough juice to bump at least one of two balls out.

#6334 1 year ago

Stuck balls continued...

Oh, while you're at it, go into the SPI settings and adjust the feature to turn off tilt when Coin door is open. If you really have a stuck ball happen, you can open door and shake it loose without fear of a tilt (assuming home use and key in door).

#6336 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

Thoughts on whether the Ninja Scoop protector is needed for games with the factory fix? Mine is a recent build with the factory fix and I'm debating whether I should replace with the Ninja protector. The factory fix definitely makes a harder shot, which is good in some ways.

IMHO, not needed. I think the metal frame alone is a much better design that clips below the wood to hold it much better than the original incarnations. I do like the platypus VUK thing and the Roll The Bones switch setup drop covers.

#6355 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:Same problem whitewater has - if two go in the vuk, shut the game off and try to get the balls out.

Or simply set ADJ > RUSH > #10 VUKPower from factory 150 to 165 and no more problem. Actually 1 time in 800+ games I had 3 balls go in the vuk, but it cleared.

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#6394 1 year ago
Quoted from WeirPinball:

anyone? bueller?

I've only heard of 2 node 10 boards getting damaged in this thread. I don't see it as something that's happening to most or even many machines.
The new machines seem to have a daughter card. I'm guessing that the ferrite rings could not possibly save a chip from burning through like I saw in one image. That's my 2 cents.

#6457 1 year ago
Quoted from Hayfarmer:

Still on orig switch, registers every time.

My original worked very well and had ball lock on since mid April (.089). It "lost" the ball a few times and did a ball search. New switch is perfect. Based on the old design, i imagine table angles can come into play. I also KNOW that the opto's black plastic is brittle and must be handled VERY delicately, Makes it hard to adjust. The extra FOOT on the new switch holds the new one properly after it's adjusted. So you've NEVER had a ball search with your old switch?? Must have been installed PERFECTLY. Lol.

#6475 1 year ago
Quoted from Photopin:

I think I may have set a new record for low score on the first ball. First ball with ball save netted me a grand score of 20,000 pts. I didn't even know that was possible.
Has anyone scored less than that?

I've gotten 20k on a ball. That's the lowest ever for me too.

#6775 1 year ago

Thank you Stern Support (Eddie) for quickly handling my split ramp rubber issue. Parts took a while, but arrived today.

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#6778 1 year ago
Quoted from noysboy:

2111 + 5 = 2111

Is this something that should be sent to [email protected]? Otherwise, I'm not following.

#6815 1 year ago
Quoted from colocole:

How do we report what may be a bug?
Ball got stuck behind drop targets (not sure why they reset) after being locked there in RUSH LE. Possibly not fixable…
Had to remove glass to free it.

Quoted from J-drum11:

I reported that multiple x months ago
Stern is aware

colocole please report any bugs to [email protected] Old bugs aren't always taken as seriously and can be swept under the carpet by teams thinking they're old and were probably already fixed.

#6836 1 year ago
Quoted from kbenson13:

So I'm an intermediate pinball player at best. I’m not a tournament player and probably never will get that good. But I’m definitely beyond just slapping the ball around.
I say that as background for the purpose of my post, which is to say that I think Rush is freaking hard! Most of the shots are extremely tight or are otherwise difficult to make. And most of the modes are ridiculously difficult to complete. Working Man takes a minimum of 24 shots and realistically takes way more. I don't even want to play that mode unless I can stack a multiball for a little help. And the rest of the modes are no slouches in terms of complexity and number of shots needed to complete them (excepting Spirit of Radio which I find blissfully easy to complete, even if I don't complete it for a very high score). Even the multiball modes are tough to score points in.
I feel like the game was designed to be challenging/fun for high level tournament players and the code follows suit. But it's not really all that fun for lesser players. It's hard to get a feeling of accomplishment. That's kind of crazy given this is such a "gateway" machine to a lot of Rush fans who may never have otherwise considered buying a pinball machine.
All this is a long way of asking, especially for you non-tournament level players, what do you consider a "satisfying" score or game on this machine? How many points do you need to score to feel like you did "well"? Do you feel like you haven't done well unless you complete 1+ modes?
I'm trying to lower my expectations for what a "good" game is. Right now I can't do much better than complete a single mode (usually only Spirit of Radio) and score about 75 million points, and that happens very rarely. And that doesn't feel satisfying. What do y'all think?

I'm not a good player, but LOVE Rush. When I got the game I could only make the time machine shot and the VUK. Would hit other stuff by accident. After a while, I started to realize where on each flipper you had to hit the ball to make a certain shot. Now I'm so much better than before. I can actually call shots and hit them at least 1 in 3 tries (Maybe better on easier ones). I think it just takes practice. I used to not nudge. Now I'm trying to nudge so I don't lose as many balls to outlines or sdtm. I can do some things ok, but not "Abe Flips" on YouTube. He's good but his videos are just too much too fast. Anyway, It's hard for me to put it all together, but I am getting enjoyment by sometimes purposely botching a game just to "try learning." And sometimes just playing and "having fun". My best score is a little over 400M and that's insane for me. My games vary from 5M to 125M regularly and when I'm doing decent it's more like 50M - 200M. It's frustrating when I drain, but I need to get the right nudges, I guess? I nudges inlanes ok, but the outlanes, I seem to not even try. Need to break that habit. Also SDTM is hard. I sometimes have success leaning the closest flipper to the ball, but Abe does slap saves. Can't seem to wire my brain to do that quickly enough. I've probably played 600 games. Love it when the game gets over 50M. Need more skills, I guess.

#6898 1 year ago

Just installed my lit Red Barchetta on the sandstone one lane bridge from Rocket City Pinball. Thank you @SKYKING2301! I love it!

Question: New NIB pin owner. I've been cleaning, waxing and checking the balls for scratches/nicks ~200 plays. I'm at 899 plays lifetime and the balls seem fine. Is there a school of thought on how long they last? I have a spare set here, but don't want to swap them if not needed.

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#6989 1 year ago
Quoted from mbrave77:

Just installed the right scoop switch update. Anyone else NOT screw in the extra wood screw that was provided? It seems like its solid without it. And i dont like screwing new holes in playfields ha

Be mmmm brave? Seriously though, the plastic on those optos is brittle and was never made to hold that big metal plate on with all the forces acting on it. I'd screw it in. You can add to your comfort level by placing the screw alongside the edge of the playfield to see it's shorter, plus it'll also be going through that metal leg shortening it by that much more. Once your switch is dialed in, you want it to stay in that spot. Also consider how many of the knockers, mechs and lights are already screwed into the pf with the same screws.

#6998 1 year ago
Quoted from kool1:

I think you have to get the Rush humor to enjoy the callouts. I think they are perfect but I'm a bit of a Rush nerd.

Totally agree. Intent is to be campy. Let's be clear, they're also reading them at times and they ARE NOT actors. For every slightly stilted read (Geddy, I'm looking at you), there are 4 awesome ones (deep Rush lore and perfect execution). Heck, Geddy even sings a few. Ultimate awesome: Geddy being Cartman being Geddy is priceless!!!! "I am Geddy Lee and I'll sing whatever lyrics I want!"

Alex does pretty awesome acting! (He's a ham)

PS the "8 meeeeloooin" is definitely Austin Powers' Dr. Evil.

#7001 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

What do you mean by this?

Watch the YouTube video I posted.

#7003 1 year ago
Quoted from ccw2112:

I’m having all the same problems…. Will it ‘click’ as described with the power off ? I’m thinking of trying AGAIN with the new switch. Thanks !!

The click sound is mechanical. It's generated by the microswitch. You will hear it even unplugged and sitting in your hand. You should do an initial adjustment when it's still in your hand. Once it's attached to the subway, if it doesn't click, you may need to slightly loosen the two screws into the optos and slightly rotate the metal part until it can click, then tighten and test with the scoop test. If it's not clicking ever (rare) then you may need to remove and bend etc. as was posted.

The click will only happen when you actuate the little lever on the microswitch (with your finger when Uninstalled, with a screwdriver or ball when installed).

#7004 1 year ago
Quoted from misterschu:

Ya, which part are you describing?

Watch the whole minute and twenty, but the line is around :43 seconds. Somewhere in the pin, the actual Geddy, reads this line using a Cartman voice. "I am Geddy Lee and..."

Fwiw, I've only heard the callout a few times (2 or 3). I'd guess it's in Tom Sawyer mode rarely.

#7051 1 year ago
Quoted from upsfeedr:

i also have the pinwoofer system let me know if that works

I have both pinwoofer and the volume control from pinball life. They don't interfere with each other. It works great.

#7066 1 year ago
Quoted from konjurer:

Me too. I'm thinking about purchasing the WizApron apron magnet that covers the plastic apron. The only thing stopping me is that I really don't want more of the same cabinet art design on the apron.
[quoted image]

Plus, the Magnetic cover won't hold very well to a plastic apron... how's that supposed to work?

Could get a premium or le design, but won't they have the ic scanner hole in a different place?

#7094 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Rush has entered stage left.
[quoted image][quoted image]

You were also lucky enough to get one of those "Rare" early Pro's with the funky side art where Geddy's bass has 3 machine heads and 6 strings! Bonus! Enjoy it! It's a great game.

#7095 1 year ago

Another funny callout by Alex during Working Man mode... "Hey, did you get the memo? It says Blah, blah, blah..."

Reference to his famous Rock and Roll Hall of Fame speech (at approx 4:10 but makes a bit more sense in context of the video video below the speech first)

#7097 1 year ago
Quoted from PoMC:

Not sure what you mean, can you elaborate?

Your picture with mods. If you read way back in this thread to near the beginning, it was discovered that the wrong art file was sent out to be made into the side art. You got one of the very first off the line, before they fixed it. Bass should have 4 strings and knobs. Yours has 6 strings, 4 posts and three tuning knobs (machine heads). You have a "Rare" PRO. Enjoy!

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#7147 1 year ago
Quoted from kbenson13:

After playing some Guardians of the Galaxy over the weekend, I'm pretty sure Borg designs his games to be difficult for average players. I don't want to change the settings because that feels like a cheat. Hopefully I just find a way to get better. I have games where everything flows and it's kinda fun. But then I have dozens of games in a row where I brick everything and end up with a score of 2-5 million points. The good news is I'm beginning to see where I'm screwing up. So maybe there's hope!

If you would have received your game in April, you would start every multiball with 3 instead of 2 balls and a bunch of other settings which were updated in a more recent release. Read through the Readme. Set it so that you have fun. It will help you learn the shots and deep rules. I still don't know them all. Make it enjoyable. No shame in that. Once you feel more comfortable you can always change them back. There's a setting that you can "install" home mode too.

#7154 1 year ago

I was so excited and yet bummed last night... One of my last games, I got 220M on "ball 1" (with 2 free balls).. half of my best score ever. (Awesome for me) Then the next two balls, I flubbed and ended with 222M!!!! It happens too often to me where I do awesome on ball 1 and am not consistent or do poorly on first balls and crush ball 3. That is what's frustrating to me.

#7163 1 year ago
Quoted from Ghosters:

Sorry if I am posting this in the wrong place, but still getting the hang of Pinside. I have been moding the audio on my Rush Prem and have added the pinwoofer kit, which makes a world of change. I have also added a separate floor standing woofer, which is almost overkill since I cant find just the right setting. I have been playing with the music and callout settings or attenuation. Am I correct that it appears that the effects are actually on the music channel? It would be nice to adjust, music, callouts and effects separately, but I don't know if Stern has considered that. There seems to be a lot of distorting bass that are in the effects that effect the quality of the music. Let me know if I am missing something and possibly a better way to get clearer audio.

I would start here. https://pinwoofer.com/blog/pinwoofer-stern-spike2-rush-amplifier-settings/

Then tweak to your liking.

#7245 1 year ago

Geddy's Backline installed. Dryer and Henhouse. (NOTE: The location I am trying for henhouse does NOT make it easy to remove playfield, so it may end up on other side of dryer. ) Thank you Tom At Diddy's Mods!
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1 week later
#7537 1 year ago

I installed both the switch and the Stern protector. They're both easy to do if you just take your time. The Stern protector is no harder to install than Ninja.

#7568 1 year ago
Quoted from Animal:

So, I keep reading posts here where people are talking about how they like the Rush pinball machine, the shots, combo's, lighting, etc...and also say, they never knew of Rush. WTF? Like how?? I mean, ok...Im from Montreal, not far from Toronto, but I first became aware of them from Bastille Day, like when was that, the late 50's?? Then, so many great songs...but, you couldnt have missed Tom Sawyer?? When that broke it was all over the radio and I was in NY State at the time. Like, they made their break through in the US: Cincinnati. They sold out Wembley Stadium 2 and 3 nights in a row 5 TIMES!!! I mean, if you like Rock, or Progressive Rock, Jazz or Heavy Metal or were a fan of amazing drummers, guitarists or bass players or amazing lyrics or great song witting or live performances that blew you away, you should have heard of Rush?! I mean, I was told by more than one friend, you gotta see RUSH like decades ago. ...and when I did, that was it. But, I ask, how could you not know a band as amazing as Rush? ...and for those who don't maybe you dont know Yes, or Genesis (early period) or King Crimson or The Who or Deep Purple or Hendrix or Dave Matthews Band (ie. Rush members were fans of all bands listed), Like if you don't...what have you been listening to? But, more importantly, Spotify these bands...and Rush because music just doesnt get better than this heavey f'in progging, witty, wickedly played music to set your morning mood!!!!!

Agree with everything. Slight correction US airplay started in Cleveland (not Columbus) by DJ Donna Halper (Working Man).

1 week later
#7764 1 year ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I bought the speaker artwork for my Premium.
I went in another direction though...I installed the pinwoofer kit and lighted speakers. I think it looks better than the artwork panel.[quoted image]

How do you remove that spongy black speaker grill? Can it be put back to stock, or does it get destroyed?

Thanks

#7767 1 year ago

The Ninja Soft Plunge Corrector seems to be doing the job. Easy install.20220705_222651 (resized).jpg20220705_222651 (resized).jpg
Note to Lighted One Lane Bridge Barchetta owners, you'll have to slightly adjust the zip tied wire. See below. 20220705_222635 (resized).jpg20220705_222635 (resized).jpg The Ninja spinner protector is also working. It seems to give the spinner extra weight which seems to boost scores. Anyone else seeing that?
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#7777 1 year ago
Quoted from turbo2nr:

Anyone replaced the Node 10 board 2x yet?
Did Stern ever address the issue and fix it?
That magnet thing on cables has nothing to do with this failure.
I replaced mine after 150ish games, but I expect it will only break again soon.

I hope it'll be fine. Most owners haven't had that problem. Mine has 1000 games. Knock on wood.

What did they tell you? You're one person who actually emailed with them.

1 week later
#8129 1 year ago
Quoted from H3XAG0N:

I got some slow motion of the spinner lane rejects this morning! Woo!
First, here's a successful shot that doesn't reject, then a good shot through the upper loop. Play with sound and listen carefully when the ball goes through the lane both times:
Hear the ball rattling around in there?
Now, here's a shot that goes in but rejects back out. Same thing, watch with sound:
The lane seems to be shaped somewhat like a "V" with the outside and inside rails getting closer together at the bottom to funnel the ball towards the upper flipper. This is causing the ball to bounce around unexpectedly against those walls and then catch the wire gate while it's up still and come back out the spinner lane. I'm thinking if I put one of those furniture pads on the left-hand wall of this area (past and below the wire gate), it may deaden those bounces and prevent the rejects. Thoughts?

Cool videos. Really explains what I could NOT understand before. Fwiw, my Premium has NEVER done this in over 1000 plays. I wonder if the gate swings too freely? Not sure.

#8131 1 year ago
Quoted from MooButt:

Received my NIB Premium with the Pro translite in it. The Pro is a better backglass, but it didn’t match the rest of the artwork and it drove me nuts.

Sorry your pro translite wasn't to your liking. I personally LOVE the premium art in total. Moving Pictures is my favorite album, and I also love Test For Echo. You get a lot of those along with Presto, fly by night, and 2112 (and the Rush album) in the premium art. Hope it grows on you.

#8132 1 year ago
Quoted from Boslaw:

Got a good look at my playfield today and noticed what looks like planking. Is this normal or something I should be contacting my dealer about? This is my first NIB. It doesn't look quite this bad in person, and it's relatively smooth, although I can feel the ridges in some spots and I can definitely see it depending on the light and angle.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Dude, that sucks. Not supposed to look that way.

1 week later
#8344 1 year ago
Quoted from VisitorQ:

Which has me thinking...
I installed the VUK from NinjaCamp over the weekend and prior to I was getting 0 rejects, now after installing it I started to get a couple here and there.
So for anyone who is thinking about installing this, I would probably leave the back piece off of it and for anyone who is going to install it I will say this...
Install the back piece first and then install the circular piece. It is 100x more easier than installing it in reverse which is what the directions tell you.
I may remove the back piece on mine to see if the rejects stop altogether... [quoted image]

I agree completely. Want Vuk protected, but NEVER had rejects before. You think it's that back piece?

#8396 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Well, the distributor put it as bluntly as he could, lol.
Just boggles my mind, of why this replacement seems to be so difficult. People with Node board issues, are getting faster turnaround, which I am greatly happy for them. This is just a simple spinner(and decals) replacement.
[quoted image]

That sucks, but just order the stickers now and in 2 months you'll be good! Jk. I guess you can play it at least.

#8423 1 year ago
Quoted from brainmegaphone:

Thanks for the responses all! So is this just a photo or something you printed and cut out to go over the reader thing? I like the look of it.
The magnetic apron (while really nice looking) is probably more involved than I would like. I'm going for as original as possible with a tweak to this reader thing. For now I'll probably just unplug it as suggested.
To those that enjoy the reader and features - more power to you. To date I still have never used Scorbit with my GNR. I'm just not into this stuff. As often as I can in life I keep my phone away from me and don't like to pick it up unless it rings. Pinball is an escape and when I see things that want to integrate into apps and keep me looking at my phone it makes me cringe.
If Stern wants to offer me rewards (free invisiglass or discounts on accessories) from my playtime and achievements I'll hook it up.

You could always sign up and print your barcode on a piece of paper you keep near the machine. Scan the paper. Leave your phone far away. Insider will track your games, scores, achievements you've completed per game, etc. Oh, and print a copy for your wallet so you can use it on location too!

#8627 1 year ago
Quoted from SuS:

Really loving RUSH so far and it just keeps getting better. I always love when Geddy calls me a hoser but I discovered a new favorite callout. I had my first billion point game and, in one of the later multi-balls, I heard "These are celestial voices telling you that you suck!" Not sure if that callout was in the game prior to 0.98, and I just didn't get far enough along to hear it, but this is some of the brilliance of the RUSH pin that I love as a Rush fan.

I just heard a new one at the beginning of Freewill where Ged says " The cards ARE stacked against you!" Hilarious.

Also Love the Home Team feature set! Way to go Stern!!

#8658 1 year ago
Quoted from TomatoesOfDoom:

Hi everyone. First time pin owner - Just got a NIB pro last week. The distributor had already installed pit v3 scoop protector.
Over the week I’ve noticed that the eject out of the scoop has become more erratic. It goes to the right flipper maybe half the time. But it might also dribble out right down the middle or even fail at ejecting, fall back, and re-eject.
Looking through the thread, it seems like a good idea to check where the scoop is pointing and the eject power. Is there anything else i should look for in trying to fix this issue?

First try loosening the screws, twisting it to the right flipper and tightening. See if that resolves it. Otherwise people have had luck adding washers under one side.

#8701 1 year ago
Quoted from coldbud:

I resetted all connections going the from the clock now it moves properly. The ramp always moved but the clock lit up properly but the hands never moved till now. Thank you for the replies.

Awesome news. This community Rocks! Your next task is to have fun with your new baby!!!

#8771 1 year ago
Quoted from Ollulanus:

So, I installed the mod for the inner loop to prevent it from rolling up and missing the switch. It's a bit better, but still misses on the really fast ones. I'm assuming there's no chance I installed it wrong - basically just a lid to cover the lane and reduce ball air, right? Anyone else still have issues after adding that? Time for an MRS?
ALSO, I'm really loving this pin but between. Get the the inner loop issue, scoop issues initially, and the spinner rejects - anyone else thinking they really need to spend more time play testing these? (I volunteer as tribute)

I have only the MRS-Rush from Sonic (M&M Creations) and I can't tell you the last time it didn't work. (never). I have over 800 plays with the switch and I go out of my way to try to loop that loop for fun nearly every game. My record is 7 in a row. Get the switch if you like solutions. that make you forget you had a problem. It requires some soldering skills so not for everyone, but if it's in your wheelhouse, it's a no brainer to me.

#8801 1 year ago
Quoted from konjurer:

You can opt out. The only features you're missing are the ones you don't want to try because they are part of the insider connect. It's easier than ever to access the features. They even let mere mortals experience the wizard modes without having to earn them. Personally, I think the insider connect is amazing. It gives me MORE visibility to the features of the game not less. It gives me more feedback on things I've achieved and things that remain for me to conquer.
What could Stern possibly track that could harm you? Let's see... they can see which features people are using, metrics on bugs and usage, how people are using the game so they can improve and make better games, possibly do remote support, send you new code without having to go through the hassle yourself. They're not Facebook, tracking your every move via GPS and listening in on private conversations.

Agree with you. I wonder if these folks use cell phones. They track your every move using radio location as their primary function. Cell phones with computers in them (eg. Android & iPhone, etc.) capture this and much much more.

#8892 1 year ago
Quoted from CloverleafKid:

Neither of those options is any way to enjoy this awesome game.
I couldn't imagine this game being fun without a fully functioning time machine. I don't mind the ball getting stuck at the top from time to time it's one of the "quirks" I can appreciate.
I am devouring all the content I can find in these forums and elsewhere about the best ways to help keep the balls from going airborne as the balls are starting to cause some damage.

I agree. I'm reading that lots have had this problem. Maybe I'm not understanding it. I have over 1000 plays and it HAS happened to me, but only maybe 2 or 3 times. One thing I DID do though, was after adding the Stern scoop fix, I maxed out the flippers. Maybe this would reduce the times it happens?? Also, set the setting which disables TILT if the coin door is open. Then in the few times it DOES get stuck, you can open the door, and shake the machine to free it without penalty.

#8911 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

What's the option number?

Look at standard option #79 to turn off the tilt when the coin door is open. Will help you clear a lot of stuck balls without removing the bar and glass.

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#8994 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

Now that the side lock scoop defaults to "always", I've been noticing some wonky behavior (like the ball not being recognized). I have the new/improved subway switch, which I imagine will fix it...I've just been too busy with other things. Question: Is the ball lock mechanism really fun? Doesn't seem like it's that big a deal...thinking of simply disabling it for now (until I have the hood open for other reasons). Opinions?

I like the subway ball lock. This is the only pin that shoots 2 balls simultaneously. If you turn it off, you'll miss that feature. The premium/le have 2 Extra kickers, an opto and a switch to support this one-of-a-kind feature (that you paid for). Why even consider turning it off? Why not do the install? You'll be fine. Watch the video Stern's John Borg did. Read the manual. Give yourself 4 hours so you're not rushed, although it will likely take much less. One other tip, whenever you go to screw in any screws into the playfield, always put them into the existing hole and slowly turn them backwards (out) until they rise and pop into place, then slowly turn them clockwise to screw them in. This allows the thread of the screw to align with the previously cut threads. Same goes with screwing screws into the plastic opto that you'll have to screw into.

#8995 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

No lie, it’s literally the same system, only involves swapping out the plastic cover that has art. 3 screws on each side, and art could be swapped. It’d be nice if Stern would just offer the art pieces
Appreciate the replies regarding audio, glad to know it’s noticed with other machines.

I'm seriously considering this. So if I understand what you're saying, after putting the lights and node board in, you have a plastic cover with that zoso art that goes over the lights with 3 screws and the art blades are totally separate so you can "save" them and possibly sell the whole thing once the Rush ones are available???

#9001 1 year ago
Quoted from snaroff:

ok...so you guys motivated me I just finished the install (took about 1 hour). Thanks!

Awesome! Enjoy!

#9123 1 year ago
Quoted from Fezmid:

What does your VUK dead end look like? It sounds like Stern must've changed something with the design if you and others aren't getting rejects anymore.

March 22 Premium build. No issues with vuk reject > 500 games Until I installed the NC protector. Did have inner loop not always scoring till I installed MRS-Rush (Magnetic Reed Switch) from @sonic. I enabled the side scoop Immediately, and had < 5 ball searches in - 500 games. Since Stern fix had zero issues. I do have some ball wobble, and the NC fix does help, but removed it because I felt it might be inhibiting shots towards bumpers (eg drum solo). In over 1K games, have had a ball stick at top of ramp (usually in MB) about. 4x.

#9130 1 year ago
Quoted from JonCBrand:

Happy Saturday Rush fans. Borg says Hi
[quoted image]

Cheers

#9188 1 year ago

I also received and installed the Led Zep Expression Lighting in my Premium tonight. Took a little longer than I expected as my machine DID NOT have the Pre drilled 7 holes for the two circuit boards on the left side. To get around this, I was able to create a template by carefully putting the screws into the circuit boards, holding them upside down in my hand and poking the screws into a heavy piece of construction paper (approx 1"+ gap between the two) and then taping that to the inside side of the machine and drilling the pilot holes with a 1/16 bit. My other 2 cent tip: If the L shaped vertical piece doesn't seem to fit into the routed groove well, there are two small zip ties employed to hold the two wires within the steel mounting. Those zip ties may need to be slightly rotated to get the bracket to fit into the wood properly. Overall, very happy with the install and the lights. Thanks to SterlingRush and others who looked into this option for us.

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#9209 1 year ago
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

Woot! Congrats to you guys on getting the LZ kits installed. I'm glad Stern was consistent with compatibility (although it looks like the node 2 in the Rush LEs are a newer, but compatible rev) and was pretty open about that they should be cross compatible when I emailed them.
Curious, what does it look like if you simply took the LZ artwork off the ELs? Is it a plain black strip or does it look like a bare mess of electronics? Yeah, I could go peek on my LE but I'm guessing one of you already took a look.

If you remove the three screws, that hold the plexiglass art blade to the lights, you have an ugly steel channel that has circuit boards and wires zip tied inside. You also cannot mount them as is, because the 14 screw holes are into the plexiglass not the metal. They do fit very snugly though, but you'd also run the risk of a ball colliding and breaking them although they're pretty high up on the cabinet so that's kinda unlikely.

#9211 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Haha, yea I forgot to mention the most important part, it couldn’t be mounted without the plexi art. So there’s that as well, lol.

Agree, unless you either cut holes in your black plastic things which might be too thick anyway and sounds like a nightmare. Or maybe if you bought some plexiglass the proper thickness which MIGHT be 1/8" or thinner. And cut it to fit, and drilled the 17 holes... you could use the black inserts for the size and 14 holes... then you could either leave it clear, or cover it with another art blade, then cut holes for the leds. But both of those sound like way more effort than it's worth to me.

Oh one helpful thing for people like me who don't have the pilot holes. How far away from the Vertical ground wire is the node board, and how much space is left between them. I estimated. But I can see in your pictures that my boards are closer together and a little farther back than yours.

#9223 1 year ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

Yeah that thought crossed my mind... since it WAS a new hole that had to be created... so I completely took that red screw out (temporarily) and left that side of the bracket unattached, and nothing changed with this behavior. While I was at it I also loosened up some of the other wood screws on the switch side to see if any of them would effect any change and none of that helped either.
I KNOW that this is a self-induced problem because what used to happen is that this was an intermittent problem where the game would occasionally be unaware of a ball in the scoop, but I didn't get the operator alert. It's only since I removed the whole assembly to put in the NC scoop protector that it has become a 100% persistent problem.
When I have the whole assembly out of the game and still cabled, I can feel one of the coils pulse (but not fire) 8 or 10 times immediately before the operator alert comes on the screen. If I remove the switch from the assembly (but still have it plugged in) I never feel this pulsing happen and the game starts normally.

Thinking that if it works fine when the switch is wired in but not attached to the scoop, then either something is depressing the actuator when mounted or like wtatumjr suggested, something is making contact electrically that shouldn't. You can definitely play with the switch in your hands while installed with the screws in but lose so you can wiggle it around and get a spot where you can hear it "click" to engage. And unclick when it disengaged. Then re-click. Etc. If you already have it in this "sweet spot" it's possibly somehow making contact. You might just want to have your dist send you a good one if it's a defective switch. In lieu of that you could mess with placing a non conducive material wherever it is getting messed up. (Eg. Paper, electric tape, nail polish ) Good Luck. My first thought was that the wires were on the wrong lugs, but this wouldn't change when installed vs Uninstalled. Will attach pic of mine just before installation.

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#9224 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

I would check how the switch is secured to the bracket as well. we have seen at times where the screws that secure the switch were wrenched down so tight that the switch was locked in the closed position. try loosening the screws, shift the switch around a bit (making sure that the it operates as it's intended) and the re-secure the screws.
after performing the above, make sure that you can actuate the switch and that it registers properly in switch test mode.

Yeah, what he said!

#9225 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Thinking that if it works fine when the switch is wired in but not attached to the scoop, then either something is depressing the actuator when mounted or like wtatumjr suggested, something is making contact electrically that shouldn't. You can definitely play with the switch in your hands while installed with the screws in but lose so you can wiggle it around and get a spot where you can hear it "click" to engage. And unclick when it disengaged. Then re-click. Etc. If you already have it in this "sweet spot" it's possibly somehow making contact. You might just want to have your dist send you a good one. In lieu of that you could mess with placing a non conducive material wherever it is getting messed up. (Eg. Paper, electric tape, nail polish ) Good Luck. My first thought was that the wires were on the wrong lugs, but this wouldn't change when installed vs Uninstalled. Will attach pic of mine just before installation.
[quoted image]

#9287 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Pro or Premium? Apparently, I was lucky to get predrilled cabinet holes on mine! Mine is a Premium, btw.

Yes you were. Really not too bad but a pia.

#9288 1 year ago
Quoted from DakotaMike:

Hmm, mine's a Premium with a June build date. So it's not a Pro vs. Premium thing. I wonder if Stern forgot to add the holes on the earlier builds of the Pros and Premiums?

Seems likely

#9305 1 year ago
Quoted from JustJared:

The nudge required to get it off would make the game tilt, even if it didn't have a bob in it.

Set the machine to turn off tilt when you open coin door. Open door, nudge, close door, play. Also try 7 degrees.

#9312 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Pics and measurements, to help others that don't have the pilot holes existing, to mount the expression lights boards. These will at least help get you started for placement.
Side note: For anyone who may be thinking about getting the Pinsight HDD, I have found a simple car washing sponge, does awesome to protect the screen from touching the backbox, when the playfield is tilted upright. A simple $2.00 fix. Loving this little screen so far, even being small, it truly helps having that info in an easier to see location.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Thanks for all those who needed the measurements. I did put mine closer to the ground wire and about an inch and a half apart. A little closer together. Oh well. The sponge idea is a good one. Where do the hdmi and power wires end up for the screen? Along the playfield?

#9357 1 year ago
Quoted from Jamesays:

where can I find the instructions,they look very nice.

Me three please! Thank you. Looks amazing!
With regard to Freewill multiball the middle left flasher goes nuts when Freewill has been qualified to let you know it's ready to collect.

(Shameless brag: My wife and I apear singing "... kindness that can kill" in the Freewill video. Childhood dream to be in a RUSH video! Check. Appearing in an arcade game. Check. Appearing in an awesome Rush pin, priceless.)

Super exclusive ad from the Pinside Marketplace!
#9388 1 year ago
Quoted from GorillaBiscuits:

Another enthusiastic thumbs up for the LZ expression kit. It’s like having a whole new game, even the side art looks great. First time ever seeing them in action on a Rush, wow!
$450 and available now vs. whatever they end up charging for the Rush kit and no definite release date? No brainer. Install was easy too, PF pulls right out, probably best to use a buddy to help but I did it solo because I’m not patient. Exact same installation as the included Zeppelin instructions BTW.
[quoted image][quoted image]

Wow! You went the FULL MONTY with the ZoSo Theme and all! Looks Nice!!! Enjoy!

#9390 1 year ago

My Premium got the full Pinwoofer Super Spike 2 long ago. It's probably the single best upgrade, and I have a lot. It gets overlooked as it's not the flash and glitz of Expression Lighting or the Rushian beauty of the Red Barchetta crossing the one lane bridge before the gleaming alloy air car. But hey, it's a music pin. If you love you some Rush music, you'd might as well enjoy the intricacies! I installed it using the factory trim. Heard several people say 4" holes, 5 25" holes, not a big deal.....

In preparation for my NC Expressive Speaker Lights, I installed my 5.25" speaker plates and gold mirror surrounds from speakerlightkits.com (removing the stock pro/ premium 4" holes with metal bars and speaker foam). Still using the pinwoofer speaker mounts for spacing until NC delivers. What I CAN tell you is that there's a BIG difference in sound quality between 4" holes/foam VS 5.25" LE style mounting with regard to Pinwoofer Super kits. I was able to immediately notice the difference with clearer highs, and more volume too (was able to turn it down a few notches).
Well there you have it. The bigger and open mounting actually made a difference. It's at least 5 to 10% cleaner sounding imo.

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#9391 1 year ago
Quoted from parsonsaj:

There isn't a whole lot of rubber on this game, but some of it is buried under lots of stuff on the left side (I just did all the rubber on mine last weekend). I hope you ordered several extra sling rubbers, because that right sling is just ruthless in how it chews up the rubber. I have been rotating mine whenever I have the glass off and it's still broken twice so far.

Ouch. Maybe I'm lucky with 1200 games since March and no breaks. Maybe we should look into this? I Can try and take a pic next time I'm under the glass. I wonder if those who have chewed up rubbers have something different under there????

#9398 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Something I had thought about doing, regarding the use of art blades over the LZ artwork on the light fixtures, but current art blades were not wide enough at one end. Unless you wanted to cut and splice the artwork, which after looking at it, didn’t seem to be a good alternative. Then there’s the trimming around all of the LED windows......
I honestly thought it would bother me, not only knowing, but seeing it there on the light fixtures. But it truly doesn’t, and I’m pretty ocd about things like that. Yes I know it’s LZ art, and not rush, but it gets hidden pretty quick when the lights are on.
Now, as far as adding the LZ art blades as well, can’t say it’s something I’d do, that’s just a little much for me. Although, LZ was a big influence to Rush, so maybe it pays tribute?
I will say this, once you have the fixtures installed, and start a game, it will completely change your view about it. Like you, I’m waiting for the official release, but I also might be retired before they come out. Or not wanting to pay crazy scalping prices, when I can enjoy the feature/function now.

I agree. I am too anal to try the LZ blades though it doesn't look bad! I saved the stickers unused and hope to buy REAL Rush kit, and swap the unused electronics and resell the opened but unused LZ kit later.

#9457 1 year ago
Quoted from blowback1976:

Alright, I've been struggling with this issue since day one, and don't see any others referencing it in the forum. Anyway, 90% of my left ramp to right in-lane shots never make, as they hit the diverter bracket, slow right down and dribble down to the left in-lane. I've undone the mounting screw on both the diverter and ramp, and there's no change due to the alignment. I've currently reached out to Stern, and they are reviewing it.
Anyone else struggling with this, and if so did were you able to correct it? Other Rush's in the area, have the bracket of the diverter behind the ramp plastic and make clean feeds. As you can see mine sticks out quite a bit and make it damn near impossible.
Thoughts.[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Mine looks like this and I THINK it's OK. I mean, I CAN make it, not always, but don't know that that metal is the cause of my woes. There must be a way to loosen up the "stuff" that holds the ramp and push it a teensie bit before re-tightening??

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#9540 1 year ago
Quoted from Drussksu:

I’m an official member now!
[quoted image]

Congrats! Did you buy it in Toledo Saturday?

#9541 1 year ago
Quoted from Yesh23:

I just joined the club with a pro. My machine came with the following uninstalled: 3 piece Stern scoop kit, Mantis scoop protector. I’ve always been a Cliffy man…what’s the consensus for the best play out of everything that’s out there?

Welcome and congrats. I installed the Stern kit and it's holding up well. Lots like the "open" scoop of Nina Camp.

#9543 1 year ago

What can this strange device be that I've found, when I touch it, it gives forth NO sound...

While examining the bottom of Rush, I found these. The little screw looks like the ones holding the ramp bumpers on, but all four are already there. The other thing "seems" like an LED on one side, but has 6 solder pads on the other side???? (Next to a "Magic Dime " for size comparison.) Any ideas what/ where these are???? Thank you!

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#9544 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

What can this strange device be that I've found, when I touch it, it gives forth NO sound...
While examining the bottom of Rush, I found these. The little screw looks like the ones holding the ramp bumpers on, but all four are already there. The other thing "seems" like an LED on one side, but has 6 solder pads on the other side???? (Next to a "Magic Dime " for size comparison.) Any ideas what/ where these are???? Thank you!
[quoted image][quoted image]

Oh boy, apparently the ramp also has two of these screws holding in each side. Found the spot under the opto on the left side. Guess removing the ramp is in my future. Any thoughts on the "strange device" would be appreciated.

#9547 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I don’t think that component is an LED. It looks like a SMD coil. I bet it fell off or was knocked off one of the node boards under the playfield. Pretty odd that it would just fall off without some physical “persuasion”.

I didn't persuade it. I did play pinball. Found it in front of the bass speaker if I recall

#9555 1 year ago
Quoted from Schwaggs:

I would have a look at your Node Boards to see if you can find one with a missing component that size. If you do, take a picture and send to Stern to see if the will send you a replacement board.

I looked everywhere visible and didn't see anything on the boards. I wrote Stern to see if they know, but right before I sent it, I ran through all the LED tests. The RGB LED pointing into the upper scoop is dark on all 3 colors. I'm guessing that's an RGB LED from that board? Asked Stern to confirm. Thanks all. Will let you know what I hear.

#9603 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Cool. 2112 mode is finally here! Not that I'm going to be seeing that any time soon. But still, it's something to look forward to.
As far as the other changes go...

Scoring changes: looks like they've adjusted things to make it a little easier to reach certain modes, as well as to get slightly higher scores. I wonder if this will help less-skilled players like me get to 2112? Maybe that's even the intent.
The one thing that does bug me is "Changed the blue planet rules so the side loop and side ramp are their own
separate shots" for the Cygnus X-1: The Voyage mode. Most owners have not installed any of the work-arounds for the faulty design of the inner loop. Personally, I've only tried the felt option so far, and I've been underwhelmed by its effect. Yeah, it slows the ball a little sometimes. But I still get lots of misses on the switch, and now a slow ball sometimes gets stuck up there. Making the side (inner) loop its own shot is making that mode significantly harder, because it could take many many successful attempts at the shot before the machine actually registers it.
It's my opinion Stern should not be making this change, until they have come up with and delivered an official fix for their defect.

So, who's going to install the new code first? Me, I'm going to wait and see whether anyone finds any new bugs that got introduced this time around.

If my 8-12K machine didn't work properly, I'd tune it. I get that it's probably related to the design, though.
Imo, install the magnetic reed switch MRS-RUSH from Sonic and never look back!

I've installed 1.0. Seems great so far.

#9648 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Since you've already looped Stern in, maybe you've got this all figured out, but your plea piqued my curiosity so I took a look, and yes...the RGB modules look like the thing you took a picture of. I admit it does have a similar shape to the SMD inductor components (suggested by someone else), but those are much larger, with part #'s printed on them.
You mention the upper scoop arrow insert lamp being out. Here's a photo of what that component (LED12 on board 9A, framed in red in the photo) looks like on my machine:
[quoted image]
On my board, the LED package has a white base, but otherwise it (and all the other RGB lamps) looks pretty much the same as the component you asked about. Minor differences in packaging like that wouldn't be unusual, especially these days with manufacturers getting electronic components from wherever they can at any given time.
I'll bet if you unfastened your own 9A board and (carefully, so as to not scrape any other components off the board by accidentally hitting something hard on the playfield underside) turned the board over so you can see where LED12 is, you'll find it missing.
I'm sure you can easily figure out where the board is, given you already know which lamp is not working, but just to be complete here's the board layout drawing from the machine manual showing where board 9A is on the underside of the playfield. The board itself is labeled "6", but that's just the ID on the table on the page. The board's actual name is "9A":
[quoted image]
If/when you confirm that's where the component came from, I'd guess you shouldn't have any trouble getting Stern to replace the board. It's not feasible for the average person to remount a SMD component in the field, and assuming you never had the board off, the component coming off like that would only be some sort of manufacturing error.

Thank you for the investigative work. I really appreciate it. I have not TOUCHED that board, so I hope Stern will send me one. Parts should not be falling off in normal use. I did yesterday pull out the manual and confirm the tests match that board you indicate. I'm not looking unless they ask me to. For now it's a bummer cause the scoop is dark and makes it harder to play properly. Stern hasn't answered either of my 2 emails yet. I'm sure they're busy there. Waiting patiently for now. Thanks again for your help.

#9651 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I had the exact same problem. I have been waiting since June for the board to be back in stock. Stern will be happy too, because I have been riding them like Sea Biscuit about how ridiculous it is to wait this long for a board. They keep telling me I should have it in another two weeks, to get me off their back. Please let me know what they tell you. I will let you know when I finally receive mine.

Will do. So far radio silence on my 9/19 email to Stern and my 9/21 follow-up. You're way ahead so far.

#9664 1 year ago
Quoted from MattW123456:

My inner loop “fix” is starting to cause the ball to get stuck. Has this happened to anyone else using the Ninjacamp inner loop assist?
[quoted image]

I've never seen this issue with the magnetic reed switch.

#9665 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Will do. So far radio silence on my 9/19 email to Stern and my 9/21 follow-up. You're way ahead so far.

Stern replied today. Asked for me to remove my light board and send a pic. They didn't think any lights on the board would work without that SMD. I sent THEM this pic and let them know I'm happy the other lights still work. 20220922_185834 (resized).jpg20220922_185834 (resized).jpg

#9682 1 year ago
Quoted from finman2000:

They just confirmed they have stock today and will be shipping mine out. Hopefully they do the same for you. Since this is something that has happened to both of us, there are probably more out there with the same issue. Mine worked for a couple hundred games before it failed. Might be something people want to inspect while they are still under warranty.

That's awesome news!!! They told me they'd order me the replacement this AM. Haven't seen an official parts order email yet.

11
#9683 1 year ago
Quoted from Drussksu:

Just got my Rush so haven't seen the history on this board. What are the best mods. Share pictures. Thanks!!

If you like the music, the best mod:
PINWOOFER Super Spike 2 kit.
(If you don't have LE I think the 5.25" surrounds make it look and sound much better)
Pinball Life coin door headphone/vol

If you like RUSH:
Rocket City Pinball: Signals, Presto, Red Barchetta
John_I Vaccum Tubes for Time Machine
WilliPinball Mods Roll The Bones - Dice flashers, Gefilter magnet, steampunk gear flasher mods
Diddy's pinball mods. Henhouse, Dryer
Dice on scoops (diy if you have amazon, drill and superglue)
Hold Your Fire

Gameplay mods/ fixes:
Pinmonk flipper fans, mode insert fix (color planets)
Sonic magnetic reed switch for inner loop
Ninjacamp shooter lane wobble fix
If you have Premium/LE make sure you have Stern scoop switch fix.
I like Stem scoop fix but others like NC
Ninjacamp spinner, VUK and inlane switch protectors
Lermods Ice Blue Trough Lighting
Shaker Motor
Pingulp 3.0

Amazing looks:
Stern Expression lighting (Led Zep if you're impatient)
NC / Outpost K - Expressive Lighting

Anal Retentive looks:
Rocket City Pinball Bronze hardware kit (with skinny posts)

Unique laserengraving - Copper Steampunk Flipper Bat topper mods

Probably missing a few. Sorry if I forgot a few.

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#9685 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

I think he put the box inside the game. Isn’t that how it works?
Where do I buy the printed scoop protectors?

On Pinside from Ninja Camp. Do yourself a favor and get the awesome switch protectors, spinner protector, vuk. Protector while you're at it.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1326-ninjacamp-mods

#9743 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

The idea was championed by schudel5 back in april - the product from gameroom mods would just be a copy of that I believe. And 5 months ago the only option was to make your own
I still have my latest mrs to install and try but life has kept me busy the last few weeks. And yesterday i spent my time instead rebuilding the ramp assembly in a rush before our tournament start because 6 of the 8 screws holding the nubs and plastics in had worked their way out.
That would be all of the screws i had not loctite’d last time! This time even the light board under the ramp had worked itself loose!

I Have a Ramp fixing question. My ramp was perfect in that I NEVER had a ball stick at the bottom and only very rarely at top like 4x in over 4K balls. I just got up the nerve to replace a blue ramp rubber that cracked (because screws fell out). And to add thread lock to all the screws, as the one behind opto finally fell out. Anyway I put it back in and played maybe 5 games and 2 - 3 times a ball stick at the button of the ramp, and one at the top. The 3 screws that hold the ramp in have rubber pads, so I thought that meant not to put them in too tight. Just snugged up.... Did I put them in too loose? You can see a gap between the bottom of the ramp and that metal flap. Thoughts?
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#9745 1 year ago
Quoted from kool1:

It's frustrating. Especially since I have an LZ sitting right next

I Have a Ramp fixing question. My ramp was perfect in that I NEVER had a ball stick at the bottom and only very rarely at top like 4x in over 4K balls. I just got up the nerve to replace a blue ramp rubber that cracked (because screws fell out). And to add thread lock to all the screws, as the one behind opto finally fell out. Anyway I put it back in and played maybe 5 games and 2 - 3 times a ball stick at the button of the ramp, and one at the top. The 3 screws that hold the ramp in have rubber pads, so I thought that meant not to put them in too tight. Just snugged up.... Did I put them in too loose? You can see a gap between the bottom of the ramp and that metal flap. Thoughts?
[quoted image][quoted image]

I just experimented with the ramp screws and it TOTALLY makes a BIG difference. If you're having problems with the ball stuck at top or bottom check the 3 nylon lock nuts that hold the moving ramp in. 2 at bottom of ramp but with playfield up, they're at the Top. One centered at the top, but with playfield up it's at bottom. There's about 2 turns of play between touching the rubber grommet and smashed to the tightest. I had all 3 at just touching and ramp not loose. This was my starting position and it wasn't right. I also tried totally tight. That caused the top lip of the ramp to be nearly 1/2" below the Time Machine entrance, but tightened up the bottom ramp gap to zero. I settled on top single screw just tight enough so ramp isn't loose. (This allows for highest ramp setting.) For the bottom two, i basically went to that spot and then turned 1 full turn more (to soak up most of that bottom gap). Tested the up position in the test menu, and I think it's back the way it needs to be. LMK if you see the same.

#9751 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

As they say… well there’s your problem!
[quoted image]
Led came off including the pads themselves. Had to have been a bad build.

Hey, this is the exact same thing that happened to mine. Stern just sent me the warranty parts order thing this am for that board. You're gonna find (pictured) on the bottom somewhere.

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#9752 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Hey, this is the exact same thing that happened to mine. Stern just sent me the warranty parts order thing this am for that board. You're gonna find (pictured) on the bottom somewhere.
[quoted image][quoted image]

My board looks nearly the same...
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/194#post-7152812

#9755 1 year ago
Quoted from j_m_:

wow! that took the pads right off of the board with the LED

Both did that! I can only imagine a pop corn kernel heating up and POP! I've never heard of soldered components pulling themselves from a board (although I've not got smd experience). These are mounted component side to the back of the playfield, so they couldn't even be touched as mounted.

#9800 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Whats the consensus on the depth and polish of Rush code as it is now?

I think it's awesome

Quoted from pete_d:

"Consensus"? Yeah, good luck with that.
For my own part, I like it. I very much like the newer rules for Spirit of the Radio, and overall I like the way the game plays. There doesn't seem to be any showstopper bugs in the code; the one thing I see is the minute hand on the clock occasionally will stop working, something I've experienced myself and have seen messages from others saying happens to them too, even on the latest code that was supposed to fix the problem. But that issue doesn't affect the actual gameplay, which of course is the most important thing.
The one thing I really don't like in the code and which I wish they'd fix is that the hurry timer for Bastille Day does not get paused when the ball is temporarily locked. This includes both scoops and the Time Machine. Oddly, there do seem to be exceptions, such as the Far Cry lock. Ironically, the machine continues the countdown when it's in control of the lock, but then pauses the countdown when the player could hurry up and get the ball moving again.
I find Bastille Day hard enough to get all four targets as it is, without having to listen to Geddy count down "three, two, one...time's up hoser!" while I stand there looking at the ball being held against my will by the game.
I can see this possibly being on purpose, the game designers' way of telling me "don't go putting the ball into a lock if you want to finish Bastille Day". I guess that could potentially add some strategic play to the rules. But personally, I find it obnoxious; all the other games I'm familiar with, they are typically generous with the hurry up timers, pausing it any time the ball is plausibly out of control of the player. I wish Rush were the same in that respect.

I think the code has been awesome overall. Fully functional early on. Few issues compared to a lot of less complex software. We just hit 1.0 and now all the features are there. The bug count has been held down. Bravo Stem Dev team. Get these guys a raise!

With regard to the Hurry Up, I see both sides. I'm not good enough to spell Rush that fast... gee it's way over there... but when the ball gets held in the Premium/LE lock behind the drops, seems cheap... but yeah, then don't shoot there. I get that too.

#9801 1 year ago
Quoted from orangedude71:

Front side and backside. Also, the rev number on the board is the same for the new board as it was for the old board so it doesn’t look like they’ve up leveled the board since I got my machine in May.[quoted image][quoted image]

Damn! That thing got hot! It unsoldered stuff on the bottom!!!

#9807 1 year ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Stern replied today. Asked for me to remove my light board and send a pic. They didn't think any lights on the board would work without that SMD. I sent THEM this pic and let them know I'm happy the other lights still work. [quoted image]

Thank you Stern Pinball! Received my replacement side scoop light (and all it's buddies) on a fresh board!!! I think their service is great.

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#9816 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

The chip on the inlane is very small and hard to see, but it’s def starting. And I’m sure will grow over time.[quoted image]

Either the Cliffy or the Ninja Camp (I prefer clear) switch roll over TPU protectors.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1326-ninjacamp-mods/06754-lane-rollover-switch-protectors-42mm

#9857 1 year ago
Quoted from bhelms:

Hi Rush fans! Quick ? re: drum lights. I am a noob who owns an LE running 0.98. On my drum, the hour light and hand move around as expected (I still don't know what any of that means!) but nothing else. Friday evening I played a Premium and the drum on that machine had lights that were quite antimated, apparently in sync with the playfield lighting of the moment. How can I get my drum lights to do the same thing? I looked through the settings and couldn't find anything related. Tks for any advice.
BTW - I will not be installing the V3 scoop protector system p/n 502-8020-00 that my distributor sent me. It looks too klugey and I have the NinjaCamp device to install when I'm ready. And at the same time I will install the "Rush Trough Kit", p/n 502-8018-00 that was sent with the V3 kit. The trough kit is apparently a new mechanical switch for the lower scoop that's on a beefed-up mounting plate. Looks important...!

When you're not actively playing, the clock shows the actual time. The lighted dot is the hour, and the hand is the minutes. (This assumes you're using insider connected which keeps the clock set. ) When you're playing.... what he said:

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

During Working Man mode, the clock will start at 9:00 and you have to advance it to 5:00 (and then clock out via left orbit) to complete the mode. The lit orange shots advance the clock certain amounts of time.
During normal play, advancing the clock (via pop bumpers) to midnight will light Headlong Flight multiball (activate via lit right orbit).

#9858 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

Hmmm...on my machine, he says "you're late numb-nuts!" Which I love.
But you're right, the programming is messed up on that. First, they should spot you 5 minutes when they play that callout, so it will match the time.
But worse, I've heard that callout well into the mode, much later than 9:05. Seems like they ought to reserve it just for the start of the mode (and spot you the five minutes).

There are 2 or 3 versions of each quote, so your machine has both.

#9877 1 year ago
Quoted from JustJared:

I have the clear NC slot protectors. I don't know how necessary they are but I like them. The ball can slow over them slightly, I've had one get stuck once which as previously mentioned just needs a gentle nudge upward to clear. I haven't added them on my BM66, but might. RUSH was my first NIB and I wanted to go all out to protect it without putting on a playfield protector. I would buy them again.

I've had the pretty rare stop on a really slow ball, but a small nudge gets it going. Make sure when you install them, there are no 'spider webs' in them from the printing process. Push them down firmly into the slots. I added them to my RR75WOZ too. (I remove and replace them when waxing.)

#10008 1 year ago
Quoted from Xdetroit:

Thanks for the replys! I just joined the club and added a nib pro to the line up. It has a January 2022 build date without any protection. Given this situation, what would you guys do? Contact stern for a V3 protector or go with an aftermarket protector? And which one if you recommend the aftermarket fix? Would you wait to play the game until the fix is in place?

[quoted image][quoted image]

I'd ask Distributor for the Stern model. I'd keep playing. A few hundred plays shouldn't be a problem.

#10059 1 year ago

I installed the Gold/Bronze hardware kit from Rocket City Pinball. It really adds to the look of the machine. Not sure the pics do it justice. The gold plastic pieces look a lot nicer than the grey parts

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#10098 1 year ago
Quoted from upsfeedr:

have the cmplee kit as well just havent had the time to tackle it yey..
how long did it take you?

I split it up over a couple days. It's a multi hour thing. It was fun till it wasn't. Don't do it when you're tired.

#10099 1 year ago
Quoted from cooked71:

Thanks for the detailed reply.
Correct, the upper left inner loop is what I was referring to. Have installed a number of the MRS' in the past, and they work 100% every time, so will likely just go down that path again. But might also look at felt or NC option just in case it doesnt work 100%.
Im still getting no registered right ramps every so often. No one else? My guess is the ball is going over the optos behind the backboard.

I love the "MRS-RUSH". One install, and I haven't had any problems. No problem waxing around it, etc.

#10105 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Thanks for the feedback guys, this is how I've felt about it all along -- the silver parts just clashed so badly on the rich gold/copper art. It's amazing how much more beautiful it becomes when they all blend better. Pay attention the next time you go play on one that DOESN'T have the kit -- you've gotten so used to the smooth appearance on yours, that all the silver screws on the un-kitted one scream out at you!

Yup, for anyone else considering the kit -- it's not a quick process. There are ~250 parts in the kit (screws of various types & lengths, nuts & washers of various sizes, and dozens of custom 3D printed spacers, posts, and sleeves) ... so it's a lot of to do -- it's not difficult work, you just need to attack it slowly and methodically. I recommend doing one section at a time, even spread over days if you need to. I did slingshots one night, dice plastic area another night, vapor trails plastic area another night etc. You also need to take a few extra minutes to understand / ascertain which parts DON'T need to be replaced (hidden from view, not easily accessible, etc.) I've put together a handy reference guide for that, at https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ryf8Ewn7RFQnrma-BIOi8hnoR2lcIop_/view?usp=sharing
Putting together this hardware kit turned out to be WAY more of an undertaking than I'd expected, but it was absolutely worth the effort and it brings me great satisfaction knowing you feel the same.

Greatly appreciated guys. I'm happy to help! Hopefully I'll get to meet a few more of you at Pinball Expo next week.

Yes! It really looks so much more balanced and the way "it should" once the kit is installed. Thanks Andy!

#10210 1 year ago
Quoted from ccbiggsoo7:

thought i read where those speakers wouldn't fit in the pro version, had to buy some sort of speaker adaptor????

The Pinwoofer Super Spike kit can fit the 4" metal that comes standard in pro and premium as pinwoofer includes 3d printed converters. I had this installed for 5+ months and it worked "great." 100x better sounding than stock.

If you really want it to sound even better like 5 to 10%, BUY the 5 25" metal and plastic surrounds too. I did this when I installed the Lz Expression lights with the Ninjacamp Expressive lights and the sound field opened up a lot.

#10329 1 year ago

I installed the real knocker tonight, then made good use of it by finally breaking a billion. Still didn't get to Cignus.

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#10350 1 year ago
Quoted from SkyKing2301:

[quoted image]
Holy crap you guys.... destroyed my previous high of 3.8B with this monster game! A few highlights -- completed both Book I and II, picking up a whopping 1.2B during Book II ... had 90 ramps ... 460M bonus on one ball and 400M on the next ... and reached year 2094, my best yet.
Probably the greatest thing about this... I'd had a lonnnng day at work, picked up dinner on the way home and immediately sat down to eat with the family, then cleaned up ... and then went to unwind and play for a few minutes. Even turned up the volume a little louder than usual. While playing, I let my mind step outside my focus for a moment, and realized what an absolute GRAND time I was having, and how relaxed I was. Rocking out to my favorite music, flipping out to my favorite hobby ... I'm so chill right now ... what an incredible decompression. Thank you Borg & the whole design team!

Andy, that's INSANE!!! Congrats. I doubt I'll ever get close! Btw, pete_d I am far from Andy and these other guys who've been posting billion point scores since like April! My game is set a lot easier than current factory. Before I believe it was update .86 the FC multiball had 3 balls, they neutered it to 2. I switched that back to the original settings and I also closed the outlines up. I am getting better but I suck. All day I was getting like 25m, 75m, etc. I installed that knocker, forgot to log into home team thought (this'll be short and then I'll log in)... then got the momma of all (my) games. I know about slap saves, but can't seem to even try. I lose a ton down the outlanes and sdtm. Any suggestions appreciated. Hey, I'll post the knocker install pics when I open it up and take a few!

#10351 1 year ago
Quoted from lospugs:

Wow, lot's to catch up on here.....5.2 billion? My high score sits at 459 Million. I guess I've got work to do. Regarding the settings people roll with, I just now found the "Home" play setting adjustments. Is there a Stern cheatsheet that explains what the delta is I just applied? Google fu is failing me right now.
More important than the settings though, is I just installed the Pinwoofer Spike 2 kit and WOW. It's so much more of an immersive experience with better sound.
I can't imagine why anyone would put a shaker motor in this machine if you have a good enough sound kit. Using the settings in the Pinwoofer blog on volume 13 I found there was a perfect little vibration from the low frequency notes that keep your hands connected to the game tempo, the callouts are less harsh against the music with the better speakers. It's amazing.
I keep thinking about buying another one, Rush Pro was the first pin I've ever purchased, but I'm really having a hard time feeling like I'll have something that matches the experience with this one.

I love all my mods, but I really think the Pinwoofer Super Spike 2 kit is the hands down best. Glad you appreciate the clean sound too. For about $77 + s/h you can improve the premium sound a bit more (5-10%) by buying those metal 5.25" mounting plate and the plastic inserts from Doug
https://www.speakerlightkits.com/5.25-SPIKE-2-Speaker-Plates.html

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#10352 1 year ago

Here's the knocker install using the kit recommended locations. I bought from pinball life.

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#10384 1 year ago
Quoted from Ceckitti:

New software bug......? Anyone else having this issue?
So.... ever since I updated to 1.01, when I first power up the game after being off for a while (the night before up to a day or so) the game will not let me go into the "Home Team" screen from the left flipper button.
I have to power the game down, power back up, and then once its fully booted..... it goes straight to the Insider connect screen on its own. Then i hold the left button and all is normal.
Also the last time it wouldn't let me log in, I went into the service menu and checked my Insider connects connection and it said unavailable and would not let me do a connection test.
Anyone else? This has happened at least 4 times now since updating.

Mine seems to be working ok (Premium updated on ic first day)

#10489 1 year ago
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

Question for anyone that has pulled the playfield... how did you go about disconnecting the harness? I want to pull my playfield for easier install of a number of parts (full CLiP plastic protector set from Mezel Mods/Pinball Universe, hardware kit from Rocket City Pinball, and clear silicone rings from Titan Pinball) and see that the wiring harness isn't the best design for easy disconnect. While Stern has a nice bundle of connectors in the middle that can be separated for the normal wiring, the CAT 5E data cable doesn't have such a disconnect; it either needs to be chased to the playfield or head for disconnect. Which direction did you go and do you think you should have gone the other way?
Might be a moot point as I'm thinking of modifying that data cable anyway. Either replace it with my own cables I've got laying around (IT geek by day) or cut and terminate the existing cable. In both cases I would have a coupler to link the cables right around where Stern put the connectors in the middle of the harness. This would make for easy future separation should I ever want to pull the playfield again. It's annoying that Stern thought to put the nice breakpoint for the main harness in there but nothing for the data line they wrapped with it.

I removed the pf to install the LZ Expression Lights. Unplugged the connectors and clipped a few wire ties holding the rj45 to the pf and unplugged at the pf node board. I had a side of the original box on the floor to place the pf on and 2 1 gallon paint cans to rest the back of the pf on. But I did the Rocket City hardware with the pf in place and for the back ones, just the front sitting in the lock down bars. I do like the idea of using a 2x4 or "broomstick" to raise up the back though.

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1 week later
#10594 1 year ago

I love the callouts. Laugh at a lot of them. One of my many favorites.... "Don't pull the plug... you'll lose your high score!" from Alex always brings a chuckle.

#10618 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

I don’t have the instructions handy. Can someone confirm for me that on the v3 scoop protector if the black spacers are on top of or under the scoop’s metal bracket?
Thx

On top.

#10683 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

Anybody else make the time machine shot with the upper flipper? I was surprised when I did it today! It was not intentional though.

I've done it a few times but it seems to work best with a slowly returning ball... maybe even one that bounced around a bit

#10754 1 year ago
Quoted from pete_d:

I am curious to hear how that works. All of the people so far who have told me they installed my fix, have seen the loop work 100%, no misses. But I believe they all also still have the mechanical switch.
I don't know that much about the magnetic switch, and so I am interested in finding out if it can register balls which are simply fast, even when they are down on the playfield where they belong. The mechanical switch has some inherent lag in it with respect to its return to its open state after the ball goes by, and so allows for more detection time even if the ball is really fast. But the magnetic switch (presumably) is closed for a shorter period of time when the ball passes. It's still mechanical inside -- the reed has to move -- but there's so much less mass involved, it probably responds more precisely to the ball, and so could reopen sooner on faster balls.
Anyway, that's a long way of saying that with my fix installed correctly, you can be sure the ball is down on the playfield, so that's an interesting experiment to see if the speed of the ball also plays a part in detection, when it comes to the magnetic switch.
I'm hoping it doesn't, because I think from a long-term reliability point of view, as well as eliminating those rare moments when a slow, back-rolling ball gets hung up on the mechanical switch, are reasons to also prefer the magnetic switch. I look forward to hearing how it goes!

The M&M creations magnetic reed switch (MRS-Rush) works perfectly in my Premium. There's only one switch. It replaces the micro switch and wire and sits at playfield level inside the existing cutout. Fwiw, I have yet to see a ball stick on it with over 1k plays since install.

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#10807 1 year ago
Quoted from Mikedenton49:

Yeah it all checks out visually and seems to register normally. But I bet you’re right. Stupid optos.

Make sure you've blackened out the little plastic tabs on the targets or the optos will "see through" them and work wrong. I masking taped mine, all but the tab, and hit them with black spray paint.

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#10919 1 year ago

I installed the real knocker in Rush Premium a while back. I turned off the volume to the computerized sounds effect and enabled the knocker. I am getting the real knock for Match and high scores, but in game, when I get a "Replay" no sound anymore. Is there a setting I'm missing or could this be a software bug? (Same in 1.01 and 1.02 firmware). Thanks!

#10931 1 year ago

I really appreciate all the responses about the knock sound for replay. I used to have just the "stem sound" and I seem to remember it from replay? I do however currently have Replay set to "Extra Ball". I guess that makes sense then?

I would suggest to Stern that a home user or anytime the machine is in "Free Play," the player has no use for a free game. And I get that lots of you "better" players want the "arcade challenge" and choose not to add a free ball for replay. All that being said, This is all just software. If the machine is set for home use, what's the cost to knock the knocker? It excites the player and is a deserved reward. Possibly even better than another ball or game. I 100% agree with @DiabloRush.

Thanks again all. Just wanted to be sure it wasn't a misconfiguration or a bug.

1 week later
#11137 1 year ago
Quoted from McDoom:

This song is fantastic; I wonder why it didn’t make the cut.
I know this game has a generious amount of tracks however, I would like to see a few more.
Do you guys think they will add more music in the future?
[quoted image]

A Passage To Bangkok is a great song. There are at least a dozen probably more that I'd like to have in the game.

Geddy, Alex and Ed Robertson each made lists of songs according to the stem insider podcast. They were trying to find songs that were good with pinball. Not necessarily popular songs. They had a lot of the same songs. Apparently YYZ and La Villa Strangiato were in contention, but La Villa won out. The songs are licensed and therefore cost $$ out of the budget, so I doubt they'll add more. Plus I think this pin has the most songs of any music pin ever? Play time wise certainly a lot of value. (,2112 being ~20 minutes alone).

1 week later
#11268 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Hey what's the fan noise I keep hearing starting and stop, it's pretty noisy I'd love to quiet this down?
Fun shooting game so far! Just got it setup yesterday! Can't wait till I start to know the rules.

The Stern fan is loud. Pinmonk sells a quiet fan upgrade. Available at https://www.pinballlife.com/stern-spike-system-plug-n-play-quiet-fan-kit.html

#11422 1 year ago
Quoted from flynnibus:

No, it's not A or B. It's both. The nuance is in matched vs unmatched records.
Colin summed it up in the tilt thread as:
"requires 2 records to light Mode Start.
-Once you collect two records (two shots are solid), then Time Machine ™ is lit for Mode Start. There will not be any “+X %” because you’ve only gotten the bare minimum # of solid records to qualify mode start.
-Let’s say you keep shooting flashing records until all 6 are solid: two of them light blue, and the other four a mix of the other colors. TM will be lit to start Tom Sawyer (the light blue mode) at +40% mode value, because you’ve gotten 4 more records solid than the 2 required to light mode-start.
-Once you have all 6 records solid, then the record shots refresh into a mix of pulsing and flashing: the records that match the lit mode color will be pulsing, and the non-matching records will be flashing. In the example above, the two light blue records will be pulsing and the other four are flashing.
-Each pulsing or flashing record you hit will give an additional +10% to your upcoming mode values. And the pulsing records will NOT change color, while the flashing records are once again free to cycle between the different colors. So you could use this phase to get a 3rd+ light blue record (giving you more Tom Sawyer mode shots that will be 2x).
- If you shoot all 6 records shots again without shooting the TM (turning them all solid from their prior pulsing/flashing state), then the “refresh” records process repeats."
The jist is your song is based on which record has the most color records collected. When you 'reset' by collecting all the available records, the shots that matched your dominate song will now be pulsing and basically stick to the color. But they are still available to boost the base value, and are needed to keep progressing beyond the current set of records (if you wanted to keep pushing further for more boost).
So in effect, your song should be set based on the record colors after you have completed the first set... because the pulsing records won't change color after you hit them.
You're chasing to get as many of the records the same color as your song choice for shot multipliers... and deciding on the risk/reward of trying to keep collecting all the record shots to boost the base value and potentially lock in more shot multipliers.

This is is the single best description I've ever read on this subject! I finally understand all the nuances. Thank you for taking the time to write this. Much appreciated.

1 week later
#11669 1 year ago
Quoted from OSUBuckeye98:

I finally got some time to dig in pulled the ramp harness. There was some definite crimping of the wires..but nothing like what I saw when I pulled the clock.
Also noticed a lot of loose wires going into the connectors.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Wow, those look pretty messed up. You had a node 10 failure. Did Stern say to do that examination? Will they replace the torqued wires/ components? I looked at mine, but that seems like a lot of zip tie cutting and playfield disassembly to get to where you are. I'm apprehensive. Visual inspection "looks" OK (what can be seen), but the zip ties are not loose.

I have a premium with -1600 plays and no node issues so far (knock on wood).

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#11726 1 year ago
Quoted from etr104:

Hey Mike, thanks very much for the reply. I did my best to attempt this however I was not successful. I might not have loosened the correct screws. On that bracket, i pushed the plunger down, which revealed 3 screws grouped together that appeared to be holding the bracket/coil onto the playfield. I loosened the screws, but the bracket would not rotate at all. i'm guessing there is at least one more screw holding the bracket in place that I did not see? Any advice?

You could check this video. He shows the full disassembly and reassembly. Right around 2:54 he removes the trough assembly 5 screws and the scoop 4 screws which the kicker shoots into.

#11798 1 year ago
Quoted from GrooTheWanderer:

Straight from the Tilt Forums rulesheet:
http://tiltforums.com/t/stern-rush-rulesheet/7409#heading--instruments
******************
Collecting & Activating Instruments:
Complete the instrument drop targets to collect instruments and qualify Freewill Multiball. The flashing instrument insert turns solid once the drop targets have been completed. The flashing instrument can be cycled by hitting the instrument standup target before completing the standups. After all drop targets are down, the major playfield shots will turn white to collect instrument bonus and reset the drop targets. From left to right:
Bass - +25k to combo values & Combo Jackpot. Resets at end of ball unless held.
Guitar - +5k to spinner hits. Resets at end of ball unless held.
Drumsticks - +5k to pop bumper hits, advances two bumpers by +1 minute, and qualifies Drum Solo. Resets at end of ball unless held. Drum Solo always unlights at end of ball.
Shooting the instrument stand-up target, will start the current instrument’s perk as well as any other instrument that has been completed without activating its perk. The timer for each activated instrument starts at 60 seconds and resets if another instrument is activated during the time limit:
Bass - Combos score 2x and can be collected during multiball modes. On default settings, combos do not qualify albums during multiball, just score points that are added into the Combo Jackpot.
Guitar - +1x multiplier for spinner shots.
Drumsticks - All bumper hits count 2x minutes, score 2x, and advance the clock during ball save of multiball modes. Drum Bonus is doubled.
Each instrument collected also lights all major shots for the instrument bonus based on points that had been collected from each instruments’ perk, multiplied by +1x each time it has been scored. Scoring a 6x instrument bonus adds +5 years, one time only.
******************
If it's not clear, the instrument standup is the target behind the left most instrument drop target (bass). On the pro, the lock for Freewill multiple is virtual. On the Prem/LE, the ball physically locks behind the bass target both at the start of Freewill multiple and for a short period when hitting the standup target otherwise. Also, the current status of the instrument targets with regard to both Freewill multiball and which instrument perk is active can be found on the lower left corner of the main display during gameplay.

Thanks! Good info. On a related note does anyone have any suggestions or hints as to an "Easy" way to hit the captive ball or the instrument standup? I can do it but not all the time. Waiting till the ball is near the end of the right flipper, or backhand from the left flipper when the flipper is up and the ball rolls up it work sometimes. Thanks.

#11915 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

A good remake can often times be an improvement. Credit noted.
Edit: because I had about 5 minutes on my hand I did a search and found that post you reference. While it may be the first DIY dice post they're not the same dice.
His were bigger dice, and clear and the colors of the dots are all different colors. On top of that they're not available on Amazon anymore either.
The link I showed I think are better product.
For the following reasons..
they are proportionally sized for the location,they are frosted so you don't see anything but a green glow from the bulb and not the actual cavity or bulb inside, and last, the dots are all uniformly black.

I bought both sets of dice and really appreciated Hayfarmer for posting originally. I like the more standard sized frosted dice myself. Lots of options is good!

1 week later
#12119 1 year ago
Quoted from Kez11:

So I bought the dozen clouded dice from Amazon (Thank you Vespula and CrashJT), drilled three (one for practice), put the two at the scoops like they should have been from the factory, hid one behind the Presto rabbit flasher, then I still had nine left. Hmmmmm, what to do???
I present my further tribute to Roll the Bones.
[quoted image]

Looks cool, but hang onto a few in case your airball takes out a dice light like one of mine did. Lol!

1 week later
#12309 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

Installed the NinjaCamp scoop protector yesterday. I just picked my game up with 17 lifetime plays, and in the past 2 weeks put on about 100 more. It had the scoop fix with the forks installed. As we played, we noticed dings and bends forming on the protectors already. So, I ordered this protector.
Took the metal protectors off and there was already damage starting on the clearcoat of the side scoop edge
It took some time to install, but it all went smoothly, and it looks so much cleaner than all that metal.These feel like they will do a much better job, without bending and digging into the playfield. The ball still sinks in nice and solid, and I don't feel like it interferes with the ball trajectory like those forks may have.
It is ridiculous that Stern put these games out without some testing, as my scoop would have been chewed to shit in no time if I hadn't done this.
Thanks, NinjaCamp for these protectors. I went with black to play it safe, but I think orange would have looked cool. Good luck all! Keep your scoops safe!
Before:
[quoted image]
After:
[quoted image][quoted image]
After after:
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club! I'm glad you got your scoop issue

Quoted from yzfguy:

Installed the NinjaCamp scoop protector yesterday. I just picked my game up with 17 lifetime plays, and in the past 2 weeks put on about 100 more. It had the scoop fix with the forks installed. As we played, we noticed dings and bends forming on the protectors already. So, I ordered this protector.
Took the metal protectors off and there was already damage starting on the clearcoat of the side scoop edge
It took some time to install, but it all went smoothly, and it looks so much cleaner than all that metal.These feel like they will do a much better job, without bending and digging into the playfield. The ball still sinks in nice and solid, and I don't feel like it interferes with the ball trajectory like those forks may have.
It is ridiculous that Stern put these games out without some testing, as my scoop would have been chewed to shit in no time if I hadn't done this.
Thanks, NinjaCamp for these protectors. I went with black to play it safe, but I think orange would have looked cool. Good luck all! Keep your scoops safe!
Before:
[quoted image]
After:
[quoted image][quoted image]
After after:
[quoted image]

Welcome to the club! I am glad you got your scoop to your satisfaction. The original scoop parts were made too thin, and like you said could damage the pf. Stem released TWO fixes on the same day. One for the scoops, and another for the scoop switch. Both of these things were issues and distributors sent out BOTH fixes together. Since your machine didn't have the NEW scoop, you should confirm you have the new switch. I bet you may not.

Check here: https://sternpinball.com/wp-content/uploads/2022/06/Stern-RushSwitchAdvisory.pdf

1 week later
#12417 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Anyone else experiencing flipper fade? I am. Looks like fans are in my near future. I'm not sure how you billionaires are managing? I don't recall much conversation about it here... Is it just me?

I have the fans from Pinmonk. They seem to work great. Used to see problems after about 45 min of play. Esp. In fly by night mb.

#12418 1 year ago

Btw, someone posted about the gold dust leprechaun that visited their machine. I had the same under my left flipper. The coil stop has a gold colored rivet that was slowly being ground down making the metal that fits into the coil loose. I only replaced that one, but have backups for the other 2. My machine has over 1600 plays and I think that one was still serviceable. Should i really change the other two before I see gold shavings?

The damaged one below. Note that when I push the stop, the gold rivet can stick out a tiny bit now.

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2 weeks later
#12749 1 year ago

My Premium came without the Stern scoop fix. I added it as soon as Stern made it available. My front scoop always shot to the middle of the right flipper. Just recently, it sent two balls SDTM randomly during a session. Checked under the playfield, and a few screws had loosened up on that metal subway with the downward kicker at the top. I rotated the scoop subway slightly colockwise and tightened it up. Working as expected again.

#12758 1 year ago
Quoted from drummermike:

The Ninja is great. Their second version is even better than their original. I have a black one that will not show ball marks.
I got rid of the horse blinders.

Question: I know the Stern scoop fix came with a MUCH improved hole guard that is a thicker gauge steel than the two(or more) previously released parts. I know the ears/ blinders can optionally NOT be installed. Does the Ninja go straight on the wood? Or does it cover the metal? (Wondering if the OP needs the replacement part anyway.) Thanks.

2 weeks later
#12936 1 year ago

At TPF and was able to meet Jon Borg and Michael Bernard! Got signatures on my Rush Apron! They were both really cool.

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#12941 1 year ago

twipy for best rules.... Rush

#12942 1 year ago

TWIPY for best sound.... Rush

#12943 1 year ago

TWIPY for best playfield and layout... RUSH

#12945 1 year ago

TWIPY Game of the year RUSH!!!!!

#13085 1 year ago

Ordered all the accessories from my dist. They should ship late April from what I was told. So now I have a Starman shooter from Super Skill Shot Shooters. Bought at TPF, but now I'm getting the lighted one. If anyone wants to buy this one PM me $75 + $10 priority mail (US only)

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#13125 1 year ago

Ok, it's official. I can now say I'm in two song videos in Rush pinball. I didn't previously claim Spirit Of Radio because the Game UI cut me off. You could really only see one arm. But today Stem Pinball fixed the dilemma! You can now set the UI to Minimal or None and see all of me! I'm sure you'll all want to do this immediately. Lol.

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#13247 1 year ago

If anyone cares about an easy Expression Light install, you MIGHT want to check the lower center left inside side of your Rush cabinet for 7 predrilled holes that the EL boards screws into. If you don't have them, you'll need to drill your own. On my Premium they were NOT predrilled. I explain how I made a template from the circuit board and drilled them in this post.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/184#post-7108131

12
#13304 1 year ago

The accessories are here at Midwest Gaming Classic!

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14
#13305 1 year ago

I am psyched that I got to meet Ray Day and have him sign my apron at Midwest Gaming Classic.

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#13309 1 year ago

The topper has a bunch of rgb leds behind the gears that change. Th

Quoted from SkyKing2301:

Damn Jim you're everywhere!

Lol. I'm crazy. This was probably too much too soon, but it's fun. They have 3 Rush premiums here. Lines are shorter than tpf.

#13311 1 year ago
Quoted from kool1:

Wow thank you for posting. How did it function? Any thoughts?
So excited to get this!!

I will spend some time later to just look and then will comment. It definitely has rgb lights around it that change up. The gears spin at times. The radio dial spins and the awards seem to go out as you earn them. There's only one premium with all 4 accessories. It shoots a little different from mine, so it's hard to do as much. The shooter doesn't feel bad. I was scared because of the size, that it might suck, but it's not bad. It says Rush 2112 on the plate and has red leds on the plate and in the knob. When there's a ball in the shooter lane the red knob lights up.

#13315 1 year ago
Quoted from DrDQ:

Anyone know the max height of the topper?

It's the height of a galaxy s22 ultra from the top of the machine to the top of the back of the topper.

#13318 1 year ago
Quoted from pinballjah:

What no 2112 album on the topper?

I think it's the collectible ones for the weapon?

12
#13339 1 year ago

A little more about the accessories. I talked to Mike Vinkour who programed the EL for LZ, Rush and now FF. He explained that the Tim (Sexton) programed the 5 or 6 RGBs behind the gears to intercept the EL signals, so the topper performs the same colors as the EL. Now that I know and take it all in at the same time it's cool! Also confirmed by playing that as you collect "The Weapon" albums, they light up on the topper. (I observed 2 lighting but not in the same game). The armor looks cool. The starman is inset behind a hole in the metal. So be careful when installing it. The shooter knob is not actually wired for light itself. It goes glows because of two red leds below the entrance point of the shooter into the 2112 shooter plate. (If you're concerned abut 2112 not being on the topper, you need the shooter...on the bright side, think of the savings!) I only discovered this by covering the lit red leds and seeing no Illumination. It's done well.

I have an update regarding the topper height. I roughly measured from the back of the topper and the "top"at the back is slightly lower than the highest point (the center gear). I also hadn't noticed a 1/4 - 1/2" plastic lip that exceeds the height of the back of the topper. I'm attaching a pic of the side profile. Sorry for any confusion. Big_Whoopin seems to have a reasonable estimate. And ccw2112 , it's def less than 10",

20230401_123244 (resized).jpg20230401_123244 (resized).jpg20230401_123449 (resized).jpg20230401_123449 (resized).jpg20230401_123451 (resized).jpg20230401_123451 (resized).jpg20230402_141043 (resized).jpg20230402_141043 (resized).jpg20230402_142211 (resized).jpg20230402_142211 (resized).jpg20230402_150958 (resized).jpg20230402_150958 (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230402_171137_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230402_171137_Gallery (resized).jpg
#13405 1 year ago
Quoted from GandalfBlack:

About The making of Stern’s Rush Pinball there is an animation at 7’04 in Working Day mode. I’ve never seen this one. And you ?

I don't recall seeing the "Playing Solitaire" one.

#13406 1 year ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Big shout out to CrashJT ddebuss Schwaggs , for a couple of new toys added to my machine
New shooter rod installed, love the look, subtle and nice. Although, I’ve had to readjust my skill shot plunge, as this one seems smoother, lol.
As for toppers, I’m really liking this one from Gameroom Mods, it’s so beautifully done when you see it person and up close. Hands down, not missing the “official topper” craziness. Kudos to those that want and got one, I’ll enjoy this at 12% the cost of Stern’s.
Roll the Bones was a huge impact on my life and musical career, only fitting to be displayed with such honor in our home. As mentioned multiple times in this thread, it would have been nice, to have a song from RTB featured. It was planned, just sadly not executed.
Anyway, for those looking for an alternative topper, plenty of options out there, I just wanted to share a little bit of this one from GR Mods. Great customer service and products, as always with them.
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

The topper and shooter look awesome!!! I like the "Roll The Balls" lol

13
#13420 1 year ago

Ok I'm so excited. I finally made it into Cignus X-1 book 1! I was at the point where it said to shoot the time machine and I hit it once or maybe twice, but then my balls drained and it said Mission Compromised. Oh well. Got my highest score ever.

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#13429 1 year ago
Quoted from Theguyoverthere:

It must be your lucky apron hehehe I should start charging for my signature - instantly raise your scores with this one neat trick!

Totally is the lucky apron! Lol.
Thanks again!

Jim

#13432 1 year ago
Quoted from Gryszzz:

Hey brother, been meaning to text ya. I'll be in Louisville next week for DRI. Was hoping to drop off my Prospector to ya. I miss that machine so gosh darn much...

Seriously, I've only broken 1B 2x and they were months apart. I really think watching better pinball players play has helped my game. All the mode details are true and can help, but practicing proper nudging and watching real players who are better than you play live where you can see what they do and even ask questions about various techniques. I think that's invaluable. I saw some stuff at TPF and MGC that I've never seen or tried before. (And all the Really good players were in the tournament somewhere else. Lol. ) There were still lots of really nice people who were willing to explain some of their moves (after the game). I'm still not doing ALL that stuff, but it did encourage me to not be afraid of bumping the machine a bit. You all know it's my baby. Lol. But apparently they can stand some reasonable bumping, so why not try. Worst thing that happens is a) you bump it the wrong direction and it drains anyway - learning lesson b) you bump too much and you get a warning right before it drains c) you save it and maybe get a little more confidence. I've watched Abe flips nudging videos, and they're ok, but I find them hard to learn from... but better than nothing. Basically anytime the ball is heading towards the outlines or going literally sideways between the slings (which I think means you've already done something wrong) you need to go into action and give a little shake to try to counteract the inevitable. That's what I did more of tonight. Plus, I only had 15 minutes and of course spent like 30+ lol. And finally, buy some lucky signatures!

#13433 1 year ago

Lol!!

#13472 1 year ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

LOL! I was about to grammar police you until Iactually looked at the name of the beer that is awesome

I think it's(Moving Pitchers) in reference to the Time Machine Tour post- intermission film (3:34)...

Btw, Geddy also reprised the "Director Voice" from this video in some of the callouts. Eg "The World Is The World Oh sorry, lost my train of thought there. Just Hit The Ball!"

#13503 1 year ago
Quoted from PinballConspiracy:

Can you now select Cygnus from Jukebox mode? Love this

Yes, both songs are in the DJ Mixer and Cignus-x is selectable in the game!

1 week later
#13661 1 year ago
Quoted from Vespula:

As soon as I posted, I played last night and probably had my most fun game ever and on the new code to boot.... 665m. My GC on old code was 697m so I was close. I had a 500m first ball which includes 2 extras and a replay extra... I could only get another 165m out if the next 5 balls. Crazy. I think I panicked a bit and fulfilled the drain prophecy.
The awards at the end just kept coming cause I did well and also because of the reset. Probably 10 high score awards and a 7 album champion award Which I've never done. Obviously high score on all the multi and modes plus time traveler 2037 and 3 weapons, and I completed working man mode which I don't think I've done yet.
The scoop ball save on multiball enabled helped me a few times and really opened up the game for me from a charity perspective as well as it was just plain fair that I should get that sdtm scoop eject which was legit a few times at least. I probably drained two more of them that were charity but man, I need it, and felt like the game was more enjoyable without being pissed off with a legit rip off during a 2 ball multiball, i.e. trapped up when waiting for the scoop eject and that one just happen to go sdtm which would have also ended the mode.
That situation is why I think this should be default for home play but all good with a setting.
Most fun game ever and I've had a bunch to compare.
Was playing far cry too... volume 28.... Which is a great one to go into and out of during modes and back into... Oh and get this, at the end after all the champion awards at the end, the 30 second outro music was also the far cry ending and I think that outro is bang on the best sample of that song. Epic ending to an epic game.
I stood there in awe of the pin listening while it was counting down to play again.... I got that goat feeling as it ended and I walked away on a high note.

Agree. Don't look at your score while playing. It will jinx you! Lol. Does to me too often.

#13682 1 year ago
Quoted from ScoobaDoo:

Ok…I’m posting this just as a discussion…I’m not complaining. I absolutely love this game!! I’m a very average player but I did the update and read that it was suggested to reset the high scores. My GC was 958 million. I reluctantly reset them. Now….I can hardly get to 100 million!! Maybe I really do suck but it’s frustrating. Or maybe it’s just a run of bad luck. I’m using the same strategy for as before. My question is, is the adjustment of the scoring that drastic? What is the reason for them to adjust the code and scoring so drastically? I own several modern Stern games and have did numerous code updates. I don’t think I’ve ever seen one downgrade points so much. Maybe I just don’t understand how code is written and adjusted for scoring.

We just had two "good games" of half billion and 600M.
Some days it's just mean to you.

1 week later
11
#13878 11 months ago

I was out of town last week. When I got home, I had my shooter, armor and expression lighting!!! My shooter has a whole constellation of bubbles. Lol. Looking forward to installing it all this weekend!

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#13879 11 months ago
Quoted from SterlingRush:

Also from Super Skill Shot Shooters, borrowing pictures from CrashJT , since his are better/cleaner pics. Here’s the one I picked up from CrashJT:
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]
Shoots nice and smooth, doesn’t take much to overshoot the skill shot setup, this paired with the orange shooter spring.

It looks awesome!!!

#13882 11 months ago
Quoted from CashMoney:

There’s actual art that comes with the expression lights right??

Yes there are side art blades. They look like concert rigging with a Clockwork Angels clock and the steempunk blimp.

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#13883 11 months ago
Quoted from kool1:

That's the first delivery of EL's I've seen
Lucky guy. So far I haven't heard a peep on shipping for any of my orders.

Thanks. They said end of April. But still no topper.

#13920 11 months ago

I installed the armor, shooter and Rush Expression Lighting (and side blades) tonight. Looks pretty cool! One bummer was that the node board that came with my RUSH EL, didn't work. Luckily the Led Zeppelin one does, so I'm using it for now. Put a ticket in with Stem. Hope they send one soon. Also the Rush EL boards are slightly different than the LZ ones. The little wire that goes between them has only 2 connectors and not 3. The node board only has one plug. Didn't have that extra plug with the two wires. The Rush kit also is supposed to include 5 extra single wire ferrite clips but mine didn't come with them. The shooter initially bumped the left fork of the auto plunger, so I loosened and adjusted it. I recommend trying it before you tighten it down. I didn't have any problem making the skill shot... in mine, it's basically pull it all the way out, and let it back in about 1/8 to 1/4 inch before shooting.

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#13924 11 months ago
Quoted from kool1:

Expression Lights looks fantastic. Mine are supposed to ship tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Shooter coming also. Hope I'm not disappointed.

Best wishes. The EL are super cool. I had the LZ ones which were great, but love the lighting rig look of the Rush side art. You won't be disappointed.

12
#13925 11 months ago

IMPORTANT Expression Light instruction. When you get yours, check the dip switches on the node board. It SHOULD be set for node 2 (on- off- on- on). Mine came all 4 off (node 8). Caused only left front led to light greenish (See pic). Secondary note also Not In the EL instructions... when you first boot the game, during startup it'll discover the new node at a lower software version. Make sure it mentions "Node 2" as is updating or your switches are wrong.

Adam at support asked me to check that and that fixed my problem!!!

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#13929 11 months ago
Quoted from kool1:

I had them on my LZ also!
I'm pretty excited. Just hope they aren't too hard to install!

I've done it twice now. It's not hard. Just follow the directions. One tip: if when you try to insert the lighting rail into the slot it doesn't want to go in in a spot.... here's the thing... the rails have zip ties along then in specific places. The slots have little oval spaces to allow those zip ties to sit properly. If a zip tie rotates it will cause the rail to bulge out in that spot. You might need to rotate the zip tie so that it's facing perpendicular to the side of the rail. In one case, a zip tie wasn't trimmed close enough, and that little "tail" had to be snipped off. Getting the rails in the slots is actually the trickiest part. Lining up the stickers was fine (I used the stem recommended dry method). Just line them up and stick lightly at first. One of them didn't go on right, but it was relatively easy to remove and retry.

Shown below is one of the zip ties in the PROPER orientation...
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#13940 11 months ago
Quoted from 27dnast:

Did it ship direct from Stern? Or did your distro ship it?

Good question. There was a mixup. Dist shipped shooter and armor. Stern shipped EL shooter, armor. Apparently, I have an extra shooter and armor someone else is waiting for. They are coming to pick those up.

#13941 11 months ago
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

Since I had access to both an LZ Prem and Rush LE that had expression lighting I had done some investigation into the EL setup as a part of figuring out if the LZ ELs would work in the Rush pin. Don't recall if it is in this thread or the NinjaCamp one. While the distribution boards that feed from the node board are different, it doesn't matter. It seems Stern found that the extra wires/plug they had in the LZ model were not necessary. IIRC they may have just been extra grounds? Maybe add'l power. But as Rush LE owners can attest the revised design works without issue.

So there are at least 4 different node boards maybe 5? (I've only seen 2). The Rush manual shows 2 different part numbers see image below noting the "main" board is 520-3570-72 (I'll call this #1). They also say in the footnote you can get a 520-6976-72 (I'll call this #2). The ACTUAL board I received was a 520-6976-72A (assuming A is a revision? Calling this #3). My Led Zeppelin kit came with a 520-8511-00A (calling this #4) and assuming there might be a 520-8511-00 with no A (calling this imagined board #5?).

On a related note and possibly totally imagined crap:

Fact: I used the LZ 520-8511-00A for 8 months.
After I switched to the newer node board yesterday, I feel like the "effects" in the EL are more discrete. Like more in tune with a shuttered digital beat as opposed to fadey and less distinct. Similar to the difference between an interlaced monitor and a non- interlaced monitor. Had anyone else noticed this? I may be imagining it.

20230501_140639 (resized).jpg20230501_140639 (resized).jpg
#13943 11 months ago
Quoted from Big_Whoopin:

I believe it was only the distribution boards that were different (the board between the ELs and the node board) not the node boards themselves. But I'd have to look back at my posts.

The LZ and the Rush node 2's I got are substantially different node boards. The LZ one has that extra power and ground connector and therefore uses a Y shaped interconnect. The Rush one uses a straight through interconnect.
Top: Rush EL node 520-6976-72A
Bot: Led Zep EL node 520-8511-00A

20230429_170801 (resized).jpg20230429_170801 (resized).jpg

20230501_174616 (resized).jpg20230501_174616 (resized).jpg

#13998 11 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

All right I just installed my shooter rod, and there's no way to not get the skill shot now. Even at maximum pull it'll never go all the way around, part of me likes this, I'm just not used to it.
If I ever wanted to launch all the way around to the pops, I can just use the action button, I guess.
What are everybody's thoughts on this?
Edit I just played a game where it just squeaked across the top and went all the way around, a rare moment. I am plugging with confidence that I will always get skill shot opportunity with this shooter rod.

Quoted from bigguybbr:

I'd check the alignment of your shooter rod. Mine has no problem firing all the way around with the included spring.

I agree completely. Mine was bumping. After adjustment, easily goes all the way around. In fact, if I'd have to say, it's better than the original in that regard even though both are green springs. Note that I just loosened the 5 screws and it's almost imperceptible how small of an adjustment made the difference. Then tighten them back up. I got lucky maybe on the 2nd try, and it's good. I guess you might have to try more than twice?

#13999 11 months ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

I agree completely. Mine was bumping. After adjustment, easily goes all the way around. In fact, if I'd have to say, it's better than the original in that regard even though both are green springs. Note that I just loosened the 5 screws and it's almost imperceptible how small of an adjustment made the difference. Then tighten them back up. I got lucky maybe on the 2nd try, and it's good. I guess you might have to try more than twice?

#14015 11 months ago
Quoted from Vespula:

Thanks JT. I was wondering how to adjust, I just reused the same holes, but didnt realize shifting it such a small amount would make a difference and I didnt want to deal with new holes, so I will play with this! I do notice the ball seems to be bumping against the metal guides in two places on the shooter lane on the way back down from a failed plunge, so it may be bumping going up too. Thinking about how this related to Billiards, for this to occur there would have to be some side spin being imparted to the ball, which means I do need to adjust this to get the rod tip to hit the object ball in a solid center shot, with no left or right english, which is not what appears to be happening.
I will try and figure out how to adjust this properly now with your help.
Thanks for posting.

Sure thing. I figure if the holes are in the same place on both plates (I'm assuming they are), and if the old one shot ok, then there must be a spot where the new one will act the same. Mine was "easy" because the way I installed it, it was clear it needed to go right. But I'm telling you it hardly moved at all. Those 2 wood screws at the bottom don't let it move too far.

#14041 11 months ago
#14068 11 months ago

My motor kit arrived from my distributor today. Will be installing this weekend.

20230505_142639 (resized).jpg20230505_142639 (resized).jpg20230505_142649 (resized).jpg20230505_142649 (resized).jpg
#14135 11 months ago

Installed the new motor and extended straight through cable. Not hard, but it seemed overly complicated to try and fit the #1 Phillips between boards and the majority of harness wires (the spinal cord of the machine). Those 4 Phillips screws are in tight and threadlocked too, so if you can't get enough pressure on them, just remove the 3 nuts that hold the ramp in. NOTE THE NUMBER OF TURNS for each of those 3 and retighten to the same# of turns. These should NOT be cranked down as they affect the top and bottom of the ramp and if maladjusted, can cause the ball to not go into the Time Machine and can cause the ball to get stuck on the metal at the bottom of the ramp. (Mine were all 12 half turns on. Curious what others are set to. )

20230509_133513 (resized).jpg20230509_133513 (resized).jpg

1 week later
#14513 11 months ago
Quoted from Nikrox2:

I also received the big 3 today.
Topper easy peasy install and looks great
Shooter rod - also easy to install but mine is not lighting up. What’s up? Connected to CN15 as directed.
Expression lights - pulled the PF to install the art blades and lights. My cab was pre drilled for the boards. Easy wiring looked good - but as the machine starts up - it fails in node update. See attached pics. Game won’t start after this. I by pass the light system and games plays fine with topper (no shooter rod kit)
Any ideas?
[quoted image][quoted image]

The EL boards stupidly ship in dip switch positron 8, but need to be set to node 2 to work. Shut down, adjust switches, reboot. You'll be fine .

20230430_171356 (resized).jpg20230430_171356 (resized).jpg
#14514 11 months ago
Quoted from DVDA:

mine did the same thing and im getting this message on the tech alerts[quoted image]

Switch el node from 8 to 2. See my other posts.

#14559 11 months ago

Yes I was away. I'm back. Still no topper for me either.

That Premium/LE node sheet was in the bag with the manual fyi. I would assume the Pro models also have such an insert. The instruction book that shipped with the EL DID NOT say in the instructions proper to switch the switches. I would expect to see that right before they tell you to screw in the node board, myself. I did read on Facebook that the switch settings ARE included in the schematic at the back of the pamphlet, but didn't confirm that. (The LZ node switches were set to node 2 from factory.)

With regard to difficulty inserting the metal EL bars into the pre cut slots... if you have this problem as I did with my original LZ set, check the little zip ties that hold the pieces together. If they are not cut flush or if they have rotated in shipment, they won't fit properly. The slots have small scallop shaped routing to accommodate the end of the zip tie. However if they're rotated or they have "tails" hanging down, they won't fit in the scallop and will not let the light bar sit flush in the slot.

I love all the cool topper mods. Lol. I know there are some of you saying. "HE WOULD!' LOL

#14566 11 months ago

Called my distributor and my topper arrived today. Having them add bubble wrap inside the box and send it to me. Hopefully I get it before the long weekend.

#14595 11 months ago
Quoted from Taygeta:

Heres something you’re unlikely to see unless you have a distributor near by…dueling Rushes.
After putting exactly 1024 plays on my Pro over the past year, Rush has become my favorite pin, beating out prior favorites Baywatch, TZ and TWD. I don’t think I’ve been so addicted to a single pin in my entire time in the hobby.
So with no more scheduled runs for any models for the rest of the year I decided to look to upgrade to a premium. Traded my weeks-old Foo Fighters premium for a lightly used Rush premium with a pin woofer kit installed. Pro has already found a new home.
I am jealous of you lifelong Rush fans that have seen them live and have been anticipating a Rush pin for years. Y’all got a game for the ages.
[quoted image]

That's totally awesome!!! I think you'll like the Premium. The three gameplay features being the moving ramp, the fork behind the drops and the VUK. They tend to make it a bit more manageable and flowy in multiball to me. The pro is still fun, but a little faster and more wild.

#14596 11 months ago

Mine arrived unharmed. The stem shop box was in a brown outer box. I installed it and it's working. Played a quick game and won 2 albums which lit and hit a Topper Mystery that awarded Frenzy. The screen added a box in the upper left that showed 3 lines of text "All Switches", a score earned, and a count down timer. When I noticed, it was at 34 seconds, then I drained... reminding me not to look away! Lol. Then a Graphic appears on top of the rest of the screen assets showing the Rush logo from the topper radio, and giving a Frenzy total with the point value in more graphical/ larger text. I can't wait to play it more!

20230525_121456 (resized).jpg20230525_121456 (resized).jpg20230525_123741 (resized).jpg20230525_123741 (resized).jpg20230525_123743 (resized).jpg20230525_123743 (resized).jpg20230525_123748 (resized).jpg20230525_123748 (resized).jpg20230525_123758 (resized).jpg20230525_123758 (resized).jpg20230525_124356 (resized).jpg20230525_124356 (resized).jpg
1 week later
#14818 10 months ago
Quoted from indypinhead:

I noticed that PBL is selling the playfield plastics for the Pro, (I have the premium).
The only noticeable difference I see in the plastics is the VUK plastic. Are there any other differences?

Yes there are differences. I bought a BASIC set of sling protectors from a pro and quickly learned they were different. Didn't fit the premium. Largely because the vuk returns the ball to the right side, that plastic is different on the sling as well as (likely) the vuk area. The Premium has the forks on the slot behind the drops (not sure if plastics change for this or not). The ramps are slightly different and possibly the plastics in the sides might be? The area under the clock? The right scoop on a pro can't fire a ball but don't know if this affects the plastic (doubt it, but don't know).

#14953 10 months ago
Quoted from yzfguy:

We have only gotten frenzy twice, and it really would be cool if there were at least a little sound effect to go along with it, rather than just the little added count- up display.
After having this topper for a while, I feel like it looks cool, and I do like the way the albums light up as you collect them. Other than that, it really is kinda disappointing. I wasn't expecting it to give me a back rub or anything like that, but they could have made it feel like it was choosing the award with the dial. It really just doesn't feel like it is necessary, and I guess that's because it really isn't.
I figured I sort of "had to get it" for the LE to complete it, and if I ever sell, I feel like I would probably recoup the topper cost from someone looking for an LE, but I also feel like FOMO made me do it, and resent the over blown money grab by Stern. It makes me feel like a sucker and it won't happen again. It would be nice to think that a fair price could be asked for these ads ons to keep enthusiasts interested in them, but clearly with the 1k zip tie Godzilla topper, this is the new reality.
I think this is a cool looking topper, but it the whole thing leaves a bad taste in my mouth.

If you happen to make it to the end, there's a new countdown by Geddy... 10 9, 8...

1 week later
#15166 10 months ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

Speaking of these dice, I was looking at the Dice dome replacement also because they look very cool. But seeing as I have them on the scoops I don't want to overdo it. I mean I get that whole " Rolls the bones " thing but I don't want my whole game representing that one song. What do you guys think?

Here's mine diced to the max. You decide. This is a pic from my adding Titan Competition in purple except for light blue on bottom flippers.

20230613_205555 (resized).jpg20230613_205555 (resized).jpg
#15168 10 months ago

Some good news and some bad news and a question. Good: The $7 chicken head knob from Amazon posted earlier looks to be the identical size to the orange topper knob! BAD: The crazy arrow is attached to the orange knob somehow (super glue?).

Question: anyone know how to transfer the arrow without destroying anything? Thank you!

20230617_103947 (resized).jpg20230617_103947 (resized).jpg20230617_104046 (resized).jpg20230617_104046 (resized).jpg20230617_104054 (resized).jpg20230617_104054 (resized).jpg
#15169 10 months ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

Nice looking game. After looking at this I think the Presto Rabbit will be the next thing for me and the Time Machine lights like Vespula said.

I actually got my tubes for the Gefilter from John_I Space Coast Pinball. If you have the premium, his match what's shown on the translite art by Michael Bernard.

#15178 10 months ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

Those just twist off like the scoop lights ? or is there more to these ones?

They are the same bayonet base, yes. The Tubes themselves are made up of several printed pieces, but they're assembled and all in one when you get them. Space coast also included a gold base that covers the silver sockets.

#15268 10 months ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:

Can that be interrupted/delayed by any modes?
The last time I saw it flake the sequence was callout "hey geddy the time machine is ready.. target got hit callout "bass" then the next thing hit was the time machine. Mode/multiball started. Targets remained down. Wouldn't come back without a coil cycle.
I've really inspected the dropdown area well. Nothing looks out of place. I've reseated the connectors checked for loose ect. All looks good there
Anyone have any other suggested things I can look at to find the gremlin? The machine is testing perfect.

Maybe email [email protected] ?

#15274 10 months ago
Quoted from Wicked-Flip:

Last resort. Hehe. Im about there though.
I just got 8 games no issues then I rage hit start while the game was still tallying end bonus and they didn't pop back up at game start. Coincidence or did I cause it miss its reset somehow and confuse it. I dunno.
Coil cycle fixes it a few games then it flakes.
I've never seen an intermittent coil. They either work or not in my experience. Bout ready to start randomly trying shit.

Mine NEVER flakes. Since ver 0.8x I can't imagine it's software.

Quoted from Fussa71:

Have you done a "switch" test as well as "coil" test? your coil could be working fine, but one of your optos may not be working correctly.

Good point. There's a little plastic "flag" on the back of the drops. It breaks a beam to indicate it's down. Possibly check those in test. Check the wires aren't cut or connectors loose. And email Stern! They're gurus at helping. pic of opto board below
20230622_091907 (resized).jpg20230622_091907 (resized).jpg

Screenshot_20230622_092208_Gallery (resized).jpgScreenshot_20230622_092208_Gallery (resized).jpg
#15275 10 months ago
Quoted from CrashJT:

Mine NEVER flakes. Since ver 0.8x I can't imagine it's software.

Good point. There's a little plastic "flag" on the back of the drops. It breaks a beam to indicate it's down. Possibly check those in test. Check the wires aren't cut or connectors loose. Board shown below. And email Stern! They're gurus at helping.

20230622_091907 (resized).jpg20230622_091907 (resized).jpg
#15277 10 months ago

The 1.12 topper code is cool. There are several different album light animations that occur. Eg. When Mystery Award is brewing the albums all flicker at different times. Cool. When it tallies up the bonuses they do various chase patterns etc. Mostly they still show what you've been awarded. Looks nice. I also had a really good game last night (for me). Ended up just over 605M but got 344M on first ball. I love this game!!!

#15357 9 months ago
Quoted from MasterBlaster:

What about all the RUSH people snarfing up the Zeppelin kits to put in their RUSH cabinets? Next it will be the Foos doing the same. IDK why Stern continues to make games with EL lights if they can’t get the stinking parts to make the kits.
-A Disgruntled LZ Owner Still Hoping

To slightly ease your mind, when my Rush EL were installed, I sold my LZ EL to a guy who put them into a FF Premium. (Raw deal that Stern didn't route the FF pro cabs to even support EL!!)

#15424 9 months ago
Quoted from leeoneil:

...
I have a question : is the "scoop protection" mandatory ?
What's the problem exactly with this part, i'm not sure to understand !

My machine made early March 2022 had the original parts which sucked. It was flimsy and too thin. It bent in a few hundred plays. Once the third design was sent to everyone with early machines, the scoops are fine. All newer machines are made with them installed. They have the black rubber ears. Mine has over 2k plays and looks and works fine. Purists say Borg intended... but if you play an "official" machine, it has the new design. I got used to it.

#15459 9 months ago
Quoted from leeoneil:

My machine is from February 2022*, here is the scoop I have :
[quoted image]
Reading lots of message here, it seems to be a very bad option.
I've bought the mod from Ninja comp, I'll see.
* here in France it seems there is not a lot of sell for this pinball, Rush is absolutely unknown here. I don't know why (cause their music is super good, why no radio for their music ????). So the box wait a long time in a Warehouse before I bought it.
edit : just received my CPU board and it's workiiiiiiing !
So cooooool !

Congrats on the CPU! Those are the original scoops. There are at least 3 Stern supplied "updates" you should get from your distributor, IMO. They are must haves...

1. Side scoop switch
2. Updated scoop protector (get it free even if you don't use, which I think is a mistake)
3. Ramp motor fix with single long wire that goes all the way to node 10.

Enjoy it!

#15460 9 months ago
Quoted from ExSquid:

What do you guys think of the Pingulp? I keep wanting to get one for RUSH since its away from where we normally put my drinks down. I've never owned one because the wife thinks it cheeses up the look of the games. I don't know...

Pingulp 3.0 with the removable and adjustable cups. You can also put one on the back corner and get it from your couch too! Lol

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