Hey everyone, I've tried reading through as many posts as I can and not found the magic. I'm a first time owner and my distributor told me that I should clean and wax it periodically.

What I was trying to find was what best practices may exist for cleaning and waxing. There seems to be a consensus that Carnuba wax is the best, so I've been trying to figure out what is the best cleaner to maintain longevity on the art-work etc of the playing field. I've seen people mention Novus 1 and Novus 2, and others have mentioned anything as long as it's ammonia free it's fine.

I love Rush music, and am happy to have the Rush machine for my basement but with this kind of financial commitment I am nervous to mess things up. I have purchased the Ninjacamp scoops and inner orbit fixes, as well as the dice mod from Gameroom so I'm looking forward to plussing up my pro edition a bit without messing things up altogether.

Your post was super helpful, thanks.

Most importantly, in the link you mention Project Pinball which is a really cool charity organization that I've never heard of. I'm in for some raffle tickets!

What power setting number are you set to now? I had a standoff come loose so I opened it up and tightened it, but required I upped the trajectory a bunch to get it to bounce off the flipper reliably again.

I bumped mine to 190 to get rid of the inconsistencies I was seeing with the stock scoop protector etc.

I will say that I saw drastic differences between the numbers, so if you're not seeing a difference I think you have something else mechanically altering the shot out of the scoop.

When I first pressed my NC mod today (without looking at the photos) I put it basically where you have it. Luckily my teen that was helping me noticed that it was too far forward.

The "starting" point of the piece is back about mid-triangle arrow light and moves progressively toward the switch.

I just installed the loop set today, as well as the scoop protectors, and I've been hitting the inner loops shot without any misses or other issues.

I've got the same mod installed.

I disagree with the notion that it doesn't look good, I think the purple actually looks good in the lane.

I've had it installed for probably 100 plays or so and I don't think we've seen the ball hang on it at all. I also think that it did change the plunge feel slightly, I had to re-tool my skill shot feel to get it consistent again but that only took a few games. I also have the Ninjacamp lane straightener installed a bit further up so it could just be a combination of those two working together that causes the slight slow down of the ball.

Loosen three screws on the black side rail.

Slide it underneath.

Tighten the screws back.

Took me 3-5 minutes tops from start to playing again.

I don't know what coin-door ball save is, but we've had a couple of balls on the upper loop have so much speed they wedge and get stuck under the plastic but never on the wire form and the glass.

That's crazy.

I don't know that they have one in stock, but I bought my NIB Pro from Arcade Game Sales of Maryland on Kent Island. Working with them has been great. Maybe they can help you out.

I played Godzilla for the first time yesterday, it is by far the best one I tried at the shop.

I'm a Rush fan, so completely biased here, but I think the Rush experience is a much more enjoyable one. I think they both play great, and I'm comparing my Rush Pro to the GZ Premium, but I think the games are equally fun in terms of the shots. Though, if you give GZ the nod on more fun shots if that's your thing, I think it's undeniable (in my obviously biased opinion) that the rest of the experience of call outs, lights, music, sounds, etc is far superior on Rush.

I don't think you'd really feel like you went wrong either way....but I'm a near life-long Rush fan so all other things being equal I think that Rush is more enjoyable.

Was driving down the street the other day and saw a car with a license plate that simply said "Book One".

I liked the subtlety, no other stickers, magnets, or any other context.

What were your numbers?

Seems odd to me that both increasing and decreasing the number would result in the same shot. That's definitely not the case on mine.

Mine is 195 with the Ninjacamp protector.

Have you cleaned, waxed and polished the balls lately? Mine changes drastically after a cleaning versus not clean.

(Late answer due to my not being verified )

Wow, lot's to catch up on here.....5.2 billion? My high score sits at 459 Million. I guess I've got work to do. Regarding the settings people roll with, I just now found the "Home" play setting adjustments. Is there a Stern cheatsheet that explains what the delta is I just applied? Google fu is failing me right now.

More important than the settings though, is I just installed the Pinwoofer Spike 2 kit and WOW. It's so much more of an immersive experience with better sound.

I can't imagine why anyone would put a shaker motor in this machine if you have a good enough sound kit. Using the settings in the Pinwoofer blog on volume 13 I found there was a perfect little vibration from the low frequency notes that keep your hands connected to the game tempo, the callouts are less harsh against the music with the better speakers. It's amazing.

I keep thinking about buying another one, Rush Pro was the first pin I've ever purchased, but I'm really having a hard time feeling like I'll have something that matches the experience with this one.

I think that would be really fun. I've collected 6 albums right now, and am currently the Album champ in my house but nobody in my house is a particularly good player. Our leaderboard top score is 459M for the GC and 309M for #4. It would be fun to have a game mode something or other that was a carryover like that.

I don't know if I just missed it, but I have watched RayDay's video before, I still don't know what the middle arrow is. The 0/2, and 0/3 by the Rush letters are still a mystery to me what they signify.

Since the topic is relevant at the moment, I'm a first time owner so I don't quite understand all the details of what I read here.

My question is, I have a Pro. Does the LE/Premium model machine have a controller board that will be used for the expression lights that I don't have? Or is it possible to put in an EL kit into a Pro as well (once they are available).

Or, I guess a third option, does an EL kit come with the controller board that needs to be installed in some way?

Congrats, my house is in the same echelon-ish. You've got to break 300M to get onto the leaderboard, but I have plenty of games I just quit on ball 2 because I won't be making it above 15M.

Mine were on top. From the top down on my machine it was assembled:
Plastic -> Spacer -> Scoop

If I'm understanding what you're asking.

Mine isn't STDM every time, but it is certainly wildly variable. I have it set just on factory right now, and there isn't any real consistency with it. Sometimes comes out so powerfully that it bounces to the slingshots, sometimes it's a perfect little pass to the left flipper, and sometimes STDM.

The inconsistency started before I put in the Ninja scoop protector, it just didn't get better after it was installed. I do get variance though, if I turn it way up or way down, I can at least see an markedly different trajectory. It also seems to change a lot with the playfield condition for me. After I clean and wax the PF, as well as the balls, it comes up much more cleanly. So maybe waxing the internal metals will give it a cleaner release? Not sure what else could be done there.

Pictures?

I took the advice and tried the 'GNR method', I also manually bent the "ear muffs" out and opened them up slightly. All my inconsistency from the scoop was eliminated.

Thanks for the tip!

https://www.monoprice.com/product?p_id=42054

That's been the best mod that I've installed. Super easy, had them unpacked and installed in about 30 minutes. The difference in sound is stark to say the least. If you're a fan of music, or especially the band, then yes it was very much worth the money.

I have a Pro, my outlanes were set to as narrow as possible from the factory.

I think people called it the GNR fix. But adding the washers to one side of the scoop was the key to solving this issue permanently for me.

You definitely are missing something with the game rules.

Skillshots on the plunge are 500k minimum. Time Machine modes minimum scores are something like 250k a piece. Two of those and you've increased your scores by 50-100%!

That seems more like it. That's actually where my household is. We got a Pro in October and our play count is in the thousands (more than 2k I think, with 4 people in the house) and our GC score is 570M, with the next one being something like 510M. I don't consider any of us very skilled at pinball writ large, but I wouldn't consider those low scores either.

I would also add to this, comparing your scores to anyone else's scores is relatively pointless. Pros play so much differently in certain modes that at face value to me suggests lower scores. The VUK feeding the flipper is a massive scoring advantage due to the ball control. On my Pro in one setting I had built up Spirit of the Radio with rainbow records and boosts to the point that each hit in that shot would give me about 25 million each. I hit it once, and on the down shot out of the dead end just ended up going STDM. I can hit that shot very_ reliably, so on a premium or LE I would have conceivably gotten 125 million in short order completing the mode and moving on to the next. Instead it plunged.

Coulda, woulda, shoulda and all that I get. I'm only using this example to note there is a massive difference in gameplay between the machine types, and then individually scoring can also change due to settings etc.

I take all the comparisons of other people's scores with a grain of salt, and just compare myself against previous versions of me. I am getting better and scoring larger games much more frequently. A billion seems like an impossibility to me as well as it seemed like the universe had to align to get to 590 million, but even in my 590M game I had Headlong Flight and Freewill ready to activate and I actually drained trying to hit the target for Freewill (another major playing difference between the machines).

People thought the 4:00 mile was humanly impossible, right up until Bannister ran it and then all of the sudden multiple people were able to hit the mark. Stick with it, eventually you'll get there is my general feeling.

I tried the Ninjacamp mod kits. The soft plunge corrector has been great, the loop assist piece i had wouldn't stay in place so I had to periodically open the glass and put it back. When it was in place it corrected the missed shots with 100% accuracy. When it wasn't in place, sometimes the ball would get stuck in the lane.

So, I then installed the clear plastic from Gameroom Mods, it also corrects the missed shots with 100% accuracy. It doesn't move, so it's been great.

Talk to your distributor honestly about it, the margins they make on selling a NIB machine from Stern are tiny. Disputing a credit card charge will take the entirety of the purchase from the distributor, and then leave it up to the distributor to claw for the non-margin money back with Stern. It's a_ way to fight it, but probably not as effective or impactful as it seems.

I think you should try and take the case to Judge Judy. They upped their damages payouts to 10k, so that will cover the base price of a premium.

Game room mods.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1167-gameroom-mods/07010-rush-upper-orbit-ball-retention-plastic

Answers
1 - I first thought I was supposed to see mechically that it would move when I hit the button. That is not the case. What happens is the red LEDs on the playfield indicate to which side the diverter will send the ball. The action button manually changes which of those LED side lights are lit up, and it will subsequently send the ball that direction. (Assuming I've understood your question).

3 - There are DIY solutions that work well enough. If you want an easy-to-install in 30 minutes canned solution to make the game sound amazing, buy the Pinwoofer kit.

4 - The only real settings I've tweaked to make the game a bit more fun is I extended the scoop eject 1 second from the default.

I would also suggest taking a minute to see Reyday's tutorial series for Rush. https://www.youtube.com/@raydaypinball/videos

He's got a nice 5 minute intro, to multiple videos explaining each multiball mode etc. Super helpful.

How are these button protectors installed? Do they just get screwed into the side panel directly, do they fit under the rail or something? Having a hard time seeing the installation.

There's no such thing as consensus on the upper loop switch.

I have tried both the NC full kit (3 piece bundle) and the gameroom mods plastic protector.

With regard to shot registration, they have been equal. When they are both in the proper place, my shots are registering 100% of the time. I personally don't even see the clear plastic from GM when it's installed, so I actually don't notice it's there.

With NC, I had what appears to be a slightly unique problem in that my piece on the curve of the loop wouldn't stay in place. I'd have to slide the glass down and adjust it back to the location about every 50-100 games or so. It's printed with little clip feet on it that are supposed to prevent that from happening but no matter how I put it on, and how secure it felt when I had it in place, it would start walking around the loop corner toward the switch. As far as I remember, I'm the only one in this thread that has had that experience. Like I said though, when it was in place, it fixed the shot registration problem 100%.

I also can't vote strongly enough for the NC plunge lane piece. That made the skill shot much more reasonable and predictable.

When I put in my NC scoop protector, I stupidly left the little ear muffs around the sides and just recently took them off. Looks even better than before. Very happy with that mod.

It happens to me infrequently, so I've never looked for a fix. I'm guessing the Ninjacamp straight pieces would probably be applicable to the right side as well but haven't studied that to be true yet.

There is a time machine ball save timer that you can increase to at least not just drain when it spits it out.

I've not messed around with the eject speed to see if it changes the trajectory.

There are a few different fixes for the shooter lane fixes. Take a look at Ninjacamp's 3d printed rush shooter lane fixes. Gameroom mods has a plastic piece that goes over the top of the switch that helps.

I think there are even some homebrew solutions if you have access to a 3d printer.

During the normal course of play, all the shots light up with a white arrow to get the targets to reset. It's essentially every ramp and every loop will pop them back up.

I'm definitely that way with Far Cry, I want that intro to kick it off. Duh Duh Duh!

I almost exclusively play to 2112 and La Villa, I'll sprinkle in Freewill as the backing track as well.

I'm with you on the "I'll never get to the song modes without significantly altering the game rules".

I just changed over to the Home Install settings, and set a new GC score at 690M. I finished two modes, and played all the multiballs except Red Barchetta and Fly By Night.

I can't imagine surviving long enough to hit the time machine enough times to get the other MBs, especially if I'm trying to hit shots to finish the song modes.

I wish there was an easily-digestible way to see what each of the pre-defined settings are, but the only significant changes that I've noticed are:
1 - Multiballs are set to 3 instead of 2. I actually find this doesn't help me get further in the game because keeping that third and fourth ball alive really messes up my ability to focus on shots.

2 - Far Cry is easier to trigger. It's target, target, ramp, upper scoop, target, target. You don't have to hit the ramp a second time to activate the far cry ball itself. Given that I actually have only ever gotten One Little Victory multiball two times ever, once on default settings and once on home install, I'm not sure if that's easier or not.

If I get 1LV another time soon, then I'll say it make it easier.

So close to the 1B club....

900_mil (resized).jpg

LOL, loved that show. Where's my f'ing comma!?!?!?!? One of the great lines written in a show.

This is the first machine I've ever owned, I had mine in and done in 30-45 minutes. If you have a drill with 1/4" (I think) nut drivers it goes quite quickly. Swapping it out is pretty straightforward, and they do give step by step instructions with images.

The only thing I would say is that it wasn't clear to me that you could take off the little rectangular ear muffs. Take them off, the scoop looks better, and the game plays better without the random STDM rebound off the scoop ear muff.

I have a pro, and I ordered purple from Ninjacamp. I think purple blends into the playfield art beautifully, but get what you think you'll like.

I'm usually saying the same thing since the game seems to play that one when you've been on a solid roll, so it feels like we're harmonizing.

Congrats man, I am also not a member of the 1B club. I did get 950M or so recently. My top 5 scores are all 650M+.

I would highly recommend running on the default home install settings. My average score has been MUCH higher than when on factory default settings on my Pro. Keep pushing, you'll get there eventually.....at least that's what I hope because I keep telling myself the same thing.

I'm a Pro owner, and on vacation the other day I found a Premium in an arcade and played it for the first time.

My impressions:
My Pro has the Precision Flip System mod, it's crazy how much of a difference those flippers make.
The Premium is a much easier game to score points and control the ball. Crazy how much the dead end shot changes things for the way I play the game.
The side scoop eject changes the dynamics of the game drastically for what I'm used to.

Secondarily, about 2 months ago I switched over to run the home install setting defaults. It's crazy to me how different the game plays from the defaults, even though there aren't all that many changes from home install that I've noticed except Multiballs.

I just put in my order for EL to my distributor. He's actually got two in stock as we speak (about to be 1). He told me that he generally holds on to them for customers, but in this case he may be ready to ship to someone. I'll keep the board posted. He also has toppers in stock that he seemed eager to sell as well. DM if you're interested and I will see what he says.

I also just put in an order for a second pin, Rush was my first, so they'll be bringing me a Foo Fighters premium and the EL kit for my Rush Pro. It's the summer of George at my house!

Got my expression lights in my pro today. Shocking that the installation instructions don't mention anything about the dip switches.....but after having things broken and going through the wiring diagram in the end they show the dip switch requirement and voila!

It's crazy how those things make the game modes so much more immersive. 2112 with the EL going is beautiful to play.

My distributor does have a few toppers if anyone here has been waiting for one to ship. DM me and I'll pass the word.

Same for me. Can't remember the item number, but of all of them they sent, I had one cylindrical gray one as extra.

Mine came with blades.

Also worth noting that the instructions DO NOT mention setting dip switches anywhere. But if you look at the wiring diagram on the last page, there is a little arrow pointing at the dip switches that mention the order is OFF-ON-OFF-OFF or 0 - 1 - 0 - 0 (or 2 in binary). That order starts at the bottom of the board (where the RJ45/Ethernet plugs are) as mounted on the side of the cabinet.

Edit to add: If you use this video as a reference, just click the link to start at 2:23 and pause the video. There is a node board with the dip switches correctly set for a visual reference.

Funny though that I remember it backward, meaning the on-offs were switched in my brain. I'm at work, no access to the machine so caveat applies to everything I say, just in case I ever run for office nobody can hold me to what I said.

If you are capable of lifting the weight on your own, taking the playfield out for me was a matter of 3 minutes of time, and one cut zip tie which I replaced. I wouldn't be so intimidated by it.

I would imagine that the ease to put in the EL kit without the playfield in, probably trumps in my mind by a factor of 3 the ability to get the art blades lined up and installed perfectly.

My art blade advice to folks is to start on the small end and work backward. Don't take all the vinyl backing off before you start, just work one section at a time. It went on perfectly, and the side that I started on the small end is picture perfect. The side I started on the big end has about a 1/16th of an inch gap between the art blade and the metal EL insert on the plunger side. It's not really noticeable if you don't know it's there and aren't looking for it, but starting on the small end eliminated it completely.

This depends on how they wrapped the data cable going to to the node board. The only reason I had to snip one zip tie is because the data cable was wrapped around the other wires like a snake, it's the only thing left attached to the cabinet still once you disconnect the other two plastic connectors. I couldn't have done with how mine was assembled.

I just looked at mine. My previous advice for the art blades was start on the small end and work toward the large, and on the side where I did that the artwork and the blades line up perfectly. Each little wrapped cable matches perfectly. On the other side, it obviously does not, it misses by the 1/16" I'm off.

So, emphasizing that in the above post would make it nearly perfect as far as I can tell.

There is someone working on a version that has a similar wireform as the rest of the game, as well but I don't know if they are selling them yet. Last I saw it required some other mod to be purchased as well or something.

I'm really tempted as I played a Premium at an arcade while I was on vacation. That VUK of the Premium really does change the flow of the game in a positive way. I actually don't think the Dead End shot on the Pro is worth the risk quite often, because for me it does not come down to the right flipper in a super controlled way so it can often be disruptive.

Spirit of the Radio and La Villa were much more intuitive to make progress when the ball drops right back on the flipper.

After chasing the dragon for so many game plays, I finally hit the 1B club.

Home install defaults for settings.
Changed any credit reward to add-a-ball.
(Seems important when talking about scores to delineate what settings were used).

1000003260 (resized).jpeg

Drained trying to finish La Villa, with the last multiball (Subdivisions) ready to go in the time machine. Should have forgotten about La Villa and gone for the MB to at least get one of the wizard modes right?

Well yes, I actually drained hitting the post of the time machine and had it bounce straight down the outlane at a pace faster than I was able to nudge or recover. I was trying to do just that .... but failed miserably.

I've now got Foo Fighters and Rush side by side. Foo Fighters has tremendous potential I think, but man the Rush experience is so immersive and deep relative to Foo.

I also struggled to get to 1B in Rush, but since buying Foo I have hit it three times, twice today. Maybe it's making me a better player. I can't really imagine ever getting rid of this Rush machine, Foo I could see swapping out for something down the road if the code doesn't get much deeper.

Check the plastics and metal stand-offs above the scoop and the pop bumpers. I periodically have those screws rattle loose and end up on the field like you're saying here.

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/shops/1167-gameroom-mods/07010-rush-upper-orbit-ball-retention-plastic

The Ninjacamp one worked equally well for me in terms of shot accuracy, it just didn't stay in place and I never thought to put double-sided tape to keep it there. I bought both mods at the same time and tried them both, this was the second one I tried and it's been good enough to not swap.

Why not? Truly curious. I have Halographic bats in mine, and I think they are great. The micro-adjustments you can make on direction seems to be slightly helpful if there's a particular shot you struggle hitting you can try to hone it with small adjustments. They also seem to be a lot more efficient, as I had to turn down the power on the flipper coils to slightly slow the ball down. I don't imagine a lower flipper power is bad for the longevity of the mechanism.

I got them because I thought they looked cool, I'm a first time owner (Rush was my first pin) so I tried it on an experiment.

I bought a second set for my NIB Foo Fighters, wherein the micro-adjustment to the left flipper makes the game MUCH more enjoyable because the right ramp shot is comparatively difficult on that machine.

Either I did it wrong, or maybe we're not talking about quite the same thing (sorry, again, new to the hobby). All I did to install the precision flippers:
1 - Take out a plastic bushing, insert a metal busing in it's place.
2 - Re-attach the spring as it was (had to disconnect it to replace the bushing)
3 - Take the rubber from the stock bat and put it on the new bat
4 - Put the flipper bat on the assembly
5 - (adjust if desired)

What you're talking about does seem like a lot more of a hassle, and I don't think I would have wanted to do it either. My experience was slightly different, or I just did it incorrectly and am not a good enough player/pinball tech to know the difference

His website says EL are in stock, but I'm not sure if that's up to date since I thought he told me that he had two left in stock when I got mine and had two buyers.

Reach out, he's great.

I've only gone over 1B a few times now (on home install settings). For me the common denominator has been, can I finish Tom Sawyer on ball 1 without (purposefully or accidentally) stacking a MB. The times where I have done that, I get very high scores, when I don't, not so much.

It doesn't seem sane to think that I should be seeking out TS as my first mode, but it really positively correlates to my highest scores.

I don't agree that they are all of similar difficulty, given the specificity required for TS and LVS, I would put them at much harder on average. The fact that you can't throw a multi-ball in and just make progress by default while you're flipping to keep balls alive is a pretty good measuring stick that it's more difficult, for the average to below average player (where I would rate myself).

I think I'm on the latest code, I guess I need to verify. I don't do IC, so I do have to manually update them.

Yeah, gameplay would be interesting just in figuring out what scoring hacks people move toward to try and get big points versus what is the thing you can do to make the most progress in the game.

I've never made it to any Cygnus modes, the best game I ever played I finished 5 of the 6 song modes (drained trying to finish LVS). My general move is to try to stack MB with Working Man or Limelight. I can reliably finish Big Money and Spirit of the Radio with a single ball. TS and LVS are crapshoots whether I finish them, though in full disclosure, if I get through the 2 LRs and the Dead End, it's nearly a guarantee that I'll finish.

Hey all, the Internet is failing me. I can't figure out how to buy replacement rubber for the slingshots. I went down to play this afternoon after my kid and a bunch of his friends were playing and saw the slingshot rubber just sitting on the playfield. My search on pinball life seems to be too generic, and I can't find anything on the "Rush Specific" parts list.

Thank you. Found them on titan pinball, harder to find on pinball life.

Manual says 2", so I bought 2 2" and 2 2.25", just to see if the game feels differently with a larger size.

Nah, better to leave it for posterity. Same way I leave in my grammar mistake by saying "feels differently" rather than "shoots differently". Our AI overlords need to know we're human.

I noticed at least four new call outs, I won't spoil them but they are fun.

I'd be in for a good wall hanger right next to the pin. Mine is tucked in a nice corner, would look great.

Post a picture of your setup.

My first guess is you haven't got the dip switches set on the EL node board, I did that as well and had the same symptoms.

Look at time 2:26, and pause the video. Your dip switches need to be in that same position.

Yes, there's one that specifically says "The portal ramp is down" that seems out of place for the pro.

Yeah, look at the last page with the wiring diagram. There's no mention of it in the installation instructions (at least not the set that I got) but the wiring diagram page shows the order of how the switches should be set.

I'm confident it will fix your problem.

I can't remember exactly what the other pin was, but there was a named fix that I finally used to get mine to nearly 100% compliance. In fact, if I start to shoot STDM, it's an indicator I need to clean the playfield and balls.

I think it was maybe "jaws fix" or "jurassic park fix" or something like that. In essence though, it's adding a single washer under a specific side of the scoop to tilt it a little to the right (as you look down from the top of the playfield).

Maybe someone here with a better memory, and or search skills can find it specifically. The link I was provided had the fix and photos to show how to do it, etc. It's been great.

Oh, perfect.

With that context, my mediocre search skills can find it:
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/the-official-rush-owners-club-1/page/231#post-7320620

Edit to add:
LOL, a few posts down from that is a post from me saying that it's called the GNR fix. Just putting that here for posterity, maybe I'll remember it this time.

Call Stern support.....that could be the board going out.

I'm within a solid drive of this Friday's show....just couldn't make it work. Would be great though I think.

For me I had to do the GNR fix (add a washer). Then, as long as my playfield is clean and balls are polished, I'm nearly 100% to the right flipper.

You could try with the glass off and just test it.

Maybe the code allows you to register 1,2,3s but you can't collect them until after the MB mode?

We use polycord in robots all the time. Looks a like it https://superiorbands.com/material-handling/polycord/

Even if it were just playfield rubbers though, it only needs a small amount of torque to spin the mech, so playfield rubbers would likely work just fine.

I finally made it to Book 1.

Drained trying to start my last mode (Tom Sawyer). Super fun, 890M book 1. More than doubled my previous GC score, now on to start book 2.

book1 (resized).jpg

Thanks. Frankly, the best part about it is now (I think) I get to play Book1 as one of my song selections. Such a fun riff to get the game moving.

I honestly haven't turned it back on since then, pretty busy time of year for me, but I've been close to Book 1 and 2 about 10 times (either 1 MB, or 1 mode left to complete) but hadn't ever closed the deal before. Hopefully tomorrow night I'll get back at it.

Well, got back at it...and got through Book 2! Drained trying to collect 1-2-3s to get from 2108 to 2112

But by far my best game. Oddly started with two terrible drains, about 50 million to start ball 3.

book2 (resized).jpg

Thanks. I don't know how many plays I have, but I've had the machine for well over a year and I play it what I consider frequently (multiple times a week for 30-60 minutes). This has been a climb to the top of the mountain, and I'm almost there.

Random question for the group, I was thinking/hoping that once you clear Book 1 and Book 2 that the songs would become selectable in the play menu as starting options. Is this fake news? I'm not sure where I got that from, maybe it was just my wishes. That bass riff to start Book 1 is so good....I want to use it.

I've never registered or logged into IC.....now I'll have to wait another year before I finally get there again.

The upper loop is that one I think.

Does this mean that you can skip the time machine if you just loop them fast on the upper loop? That's good to know.