So, my wife(not a Rush fan), just had a great weekend with this game. After a couple small maintenance adjustments I did Saturday, she had a great game yesterday(Grand Champion high score) and today(Red Barchetta multiball champion).

Needless to say, she’s been mentioning it all weekend about “Did you happen to see the high score?” She’s even getting into back talking Alex & Geddy, with their call outs, lol. It’s really entertaining seeing a non Rush fan really enjoy the machine. I think she’s also taking pride in helping to get the LZ light strips installed, she’s now becoming one with the machine

As kbenson13 mentioned, this is almost certainly due to the poor visibility of the inserts in the inner loop. LVS mode does eventually get to that shot -- but since you can't see that it's lit from where you're standing, it looks like there's NOTHING lit and you'll think you're stuck.

This is where NinjaCamps Exit Stage Left mod -- or a well placed mirror -- will really help out.

My only complaints in the layout of this game are the inner loop inserts, and the window for the subway. It's almost like they forgot players stand at the end of the machine and not hovering over it looking straight down like a tournament camera.

NC scoop protector installed.

100% much easier to installed it, than to remove the old one (which is a pain in the ass BTW).

Looks and plays great, another excellent mode from NC. Directions are not too bad for following to install it but it's funny how at the end they tell you that everything is sharp, be careful not to cut yourself. I would have put that as a precaution at the beginning of the directions and not the end.

2022-08-27 14.19.34 (resized).jpg2022-08-27 15.58.10 (resized).jpg2022-08-27 16.44.25 (resized).jpg2022-08-27 16.44.31 (resized).jpg

2022-08-27 18.30.03 (resized).jpg

but that's a huge issue when it comes to these "head to head" events where people are competing on different machines. I can make mine play silky smooth which creates an unfair advantage to someone playing an [on location] machine.

LOL. I noticed that as well, but I agree on all counts that this mod was worth installing. I have had 0 issues with this mod after hundreds of plays. Highly recommended.

I also installed the Cliffy over the weekend as well but I am not sure how to straighten it out or if it just ok the way it is? There really is no way that I can see to turn it...

2022-08-27 17.59.05 (resized).jpg

2022-08-27 18.01.26 (resized).jpg

2022-08-27 18.16.05 (resized).jpg

2022-08-27 18.16.09 (resized).jpg

Curious, were the two lower holes pre-indented? I've got Cliffy's on order for my RUSH Prem too and wonder if it's not pre-formed, if I might be able to redrill the lower mounting hole if absolutely necessary. The alignment being off would bother me too, kinda defeats the purpose of the protection.

Not sure what you are asking but I didn't drill any holes.

I sent an email to Cliff, waiting for a reply.

Check out Cliffy’s webpage. Yours if possible needs to shift a bit to the left at the top section, this should help the lower portion shift a bit.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/WIP/rush-ejects-install-008.jpg

Hope this gives you a better perspective on how it should line up.

I'm not sure how you can shift it, the holes prevent it from rotating. I don't see how it can be pushed or rotated in any direction...

I mean say I take out the back post, if I push it closer to the shooter lane, it is not going to allow me to put the post back in because the hole is going to be off center.

I can't see everything on the upper portion of the protector, but it looks like from the picture that you might be able to push it more to the left against those 2 double rail guides at the top of the protector. The hole at the bottom looks like it has a tiny bit of room to push it to the right, nudge it up right to the edge of the bolt....maybe???

I can try, the problem is the top part has two sided tape under it but either way, I doubt it will move much.

I feel ya. Worst case is you ruin the double stick...but at least you'd be able to dry fit it so you know for a fact you can line it up with all cut outs lining up. I'd take it completely off, cover the double sided tape with wax paper and try to dry fit it. I'm sure if you PM Cliffy he'll have much better info. Best of luck.

Edit: Missing the quoted text. This is in regards to Stangiato with no arrows.

I am not good at reading the rules. I notice that when it gets to movement 9/13, the arrows are gone, and a Time Machine brings them back.

I got a reply from Cliff...

"hmmm. stern must have drilled it different. compare to pics on my page. I can trim one and send today"

Guess will see how the new one fits when I receive it, I'll be sure to post pix but FYI guys... For anyone who has one of these on order to keep an eye on this, my game is from the latest production run.

I also asked if I could have installed it incorrectly to which he replied...

"no theres nothing you COULD do wrong. it looks to me like stern has drilled the stud holes off a bit from the first runs "

Even the one on my Iron Maiden doesn't really go over to the edge of the shooter lane but looks the same on his website from what I can tell.

***His picture is the second one.

2022-06-18 15.19.17 (resized).jpg

IMDN-ejects-inst (resized).jpg

The head to head events and stern's running of them is fundamentally flawed to start with (who gets in, etc) so really I don't waste an ounce of thought on the legitimacy of the evenness of the games at hand.

Besides.. most games are dialed in anyway.. it's not like this is a race based on games everyone is forced to unbox 10min before the event.

Recently, I noticed that after I drain a ball a new one gets ejected in the shooter lane without reason and without going to the next ball in the counter. It happens once every few games.

I do not have Ball Save or Shoot Again lighted, owl eyes are not flashing and noting on the screen changes. When the ball gets ejected it doesn't auto-launch and the skill shot lights are not lighted. As if I did not lose my ball... still, it gives it to me just like that.

I ain't complaining but that's an odd behavior that should not occur and I wonder if I'm the only one having this or if the new .98 code is responsible.

Stupid drum clock isn't working right.

Started a game and it was at 2:59ish. Thought that was odd, so I paid attention to it. Wouldn't move when pops were hit.

So I go into test, and I can get it moving through diagnostics. However, when I try to adjust it, it seems to stutter around 2:59. Like, I can get it to move to 3pm by adjusting the bias, but when it moves through the test on it's own, it gets hung up there. Now the bias is maxed out at "10", and the hand is sitting around 2:55pm, when it should be 3pm.

I'm at a loss....

I found this issue to be related to switch 62, drum clock home. Mine was erroring as soon as I sent into maintenance mode. We removed the clock, took it apart, no noticeable issues. Reinstalled the clock and still had weird issues, where sometimes it would not move at all. Unplugged the machine, opened it up and it seemed like the CN5 connector was a little loose. Unplugged, replugged the CN5 connector, plugged the game back in and it's worked perfectly since. The CN5 has a funky expansion board on it. The expansion board doesn't seem to fit real well, but I think this was put in in place of the ferrite bead that was previously used. Remember this is the Node 10 board, do everything with the power off.

This past weekend, we encountered that a few times, maybe 5 times within 15-20 games. We’re running 0.98 code as well, never witnessed it happening with previous codes. I just can’t remember if it was at the end of a particular mode/multiball, or if it was just during normal play.

You’re not alone, lol.

Thank you, I'll check it out!

I'm guessing this may be the case as I installed PinWoofer and the bass may have shaken it loose. Bass is pretty damn legit

Best, cleanest bass I've ever heard in a pin. Pinwoofer really wakes this game up!

That's funny. I have pinwoofer installed too and it makes a world of difference. Just really maximines the experience and their support is fantastic. I have a shaker installed too, so it's easy for things to come loose.

Thanks for the short description & especially the photos. My Rush Premium has the same protectors and they *seem* to be doing OK. But your photos of the factory scoop protectors makes me realize that I should just go ahead and order all of the NinjaCamp Rush thermoplastic mods. I definitely want to reduce that rattle on the shooter lane and right orbit, and ensure that the upper loop roillover is registering as much as possible.

Hey- thanks all for the tips.

I read the rules and knew that there was a long progression but wasn't going to memorize it. Likely I was not seeing the purple arrow for the side loop in step 7, combined with the fact that the rollover may not always register even when I make the shot (note to self - buy the NinjaCamp mods). Also, maybe I did get to step 9 and didn't remember that a Time Machine shot was necessary.

This is probably one of the more difficult modes to complete, because a multiball isn't as helpful.

I. Buenas Noches, Mein Froinds! Right Ramp
II. To sleep, perchance to dream… Right Ramp
III. Strangiato Theme Top Left Lane
IV. A Lerxst in Wonderland Left Orbit or Spinner
V. Monsters! Side Ramp or Side Scoop
VI. The Ghost of Aragon Spinner
VII. Danforth and Pape Side Loop
VIII. The Waltz of the Shreves Side Loop, Side Ramp, or Side Scoop*
IX. Never turn your back on a Monster! Time machine
X. Monsters! (Reprise) Side Ramp
XI. Strangiato Theme (Reprise) Left Orbit
XII. A Farewell to Things Side Scoop

Got the Led Zepplin Expression-Lights Kit installed today, and...WOW! They're like Pinstadiums on steroids.

They're better than JJPs hot rails because they actually light up the pf quite a bit, rather than mostly going up into your eyes like on GNR and TS4.

I'm surprised at how well they fit in on Rush. The colors line up and match almost perfectly to the pf, and the LZ symbols look like the clockface symbols from Rush's Clockwork Angel's album cover. Some of which are depicted on the pf too.

Honestly, if this is all I ever got, I'd be okay with it. If you're thinking about getting them to tide you over until the official Rush ones...I say do it!

20220829_125729 (resized).jpg

So, my left ramp isnt registering as the switch just below the super JP light/sign doesnt register in the switch test when you manually trip it. Manually pushing the switch rod down you hear the little 'click' so that seems to be aligned well and I tried reseating the molex wired connection and that did not fix it. As well, the wiring seems solid, ie, not loose. What you you suggest the next trouble shooting step is?? Order a new switch?

I'd check the diode on the switch before getting a new switch. I've also seen the switch gate on that ramp get bent weird where it can't actuate the switch arm.

As us Premium owners, are now finding out what the LE guys have already been enjoying, the light show is needed for this game. I couldn’t imagine our game without the expression lights now.

Enjoy the show my friend

My stock protector was fine as well when I remove it, no signs of wear but far less than 100 plays. With that said, to replace the NC protector (if you ever had to) would be fairly quick and simple but to replace the stock one would be a small nightmare IMO.

The NC protector opens the scoops to what the game designer intended it to be but the update shot is just fine to. Personal taste but certainly more pleasing to my eyes.

So for my clock issue, I don't *think* it's a bad connection...

First, my game is 1 minute off, and using the offset in diagnostics, any changes really don't stick, it keeps wanting to be one minute behind. I can go into more detail on that later, but here's the thing...

I tried going into diagnostics to adjust the time. It was saying that the clock was moving to zero position, but nothing happened. I couldn't adjust it, I couldn't hit buttons to make it move, etc.

So I go to start a game. Clock moves to the 2:59pm position. I hit pop bumpers, clock doesn't move. I turn the game off and back on, the clock moves. Start up a game, clock is moving correctly when I hit the pop bumpers (albeit, still a minute behind).

This is the 2nd time I was able to fix the stuck clock by turning the game off then back on. So what's the deal with that?

where did you get the lights from im sure they wouldbe fine on a Pro Model as well

As long as your cabinet has the L shaped fill blocks(which I believe Pros do), yes they’ll work.

Get them at any place selling the LZ light kit, before Rush owners start buying them up

I am new to owning pinball. Rush was my first game. Cleaned and waxed the playfield for the first time this weekend. Wow! What a difference. I hadn't realized how the play had slowed down so much over 2,000 games (since March). Will definitely be cleaning/waxing often from now on.

They get mean with new wax don't they?

I had almost the same exact thing happen. I was suspicious of the home switch, which is of course inside the clock. Took the clock apart and no apparent issues. When I contacted Stern they said to check the lock screw to make sure it had not come off, since the clock was actually ratteling when I would try to adjust it. The clock works now after re-install, but to your point maybe the power cycle caused it to start working again. Another Node 10 mystery. Maybe malfunctioning stepper motor?

So, I learned that the clock not moving is a bug in the current code. This is good news, as at least it's not a mechanical issue.

I do have the issue where the clock is wrong by one minute and no matter how I adjust the bias, it still goes back to being wrong by one minute. This is one of those small things that will drive me nuts.

Anyone figure out how to solve that issue?

I think you guys should start installing the Led Zeppelin topper on Rush, I mean why wait?

now that's funny..........surprised someone hasn't notched out rush art blades for the lights actually.

Blah, I don’t think I’m going for the topper route, definitely not the LZ topper, lol.

Did you have the issue on 0.97 or has it just started since the update to 0.98 ?

No-one else appears to be reporting anything which is odd if it's a bug.

Maybe this is a task that the Wizard Mods guys could take on...

Don’t fear taking the playfield out of the cabinet. It’s very easy to do by yourself and the backbox harnesses are long enough to just set the playfield down on it’s end against the cabinet or next to it.

Really easy with two people as the weight is less. It’s easier to keep the playfield straight vertical when dropping back into the cabinet.

Spike wiring and the handle stern puts on the backboard make it really easy.

HI Ian, Mine was worked nicely well before the 0.98 update, since that, it’s completely crazy, sometimes the clock stop Throughout the game, if I reboot the pin, it move again, sometimes the clock hand move randomly without any sense

I had thought about using their current blade art, and trimming around the LED holes, but what’s currently available wouldn’t fit the art plastic. The art is too short at one end, wouldn’t fully cover. Not to mention, I was having a hard time convincing myself to cover other(LZ) art.

And, I knew were my talent stopped with that. Great with many things, but that’s something I wasn’t going to take on, lol.

Woot! Congrats to you guys on getting the LZ kits installed. I'm glad Stern was consistent with compatibility (although it looks like the node 2 in the Rush LEs are a newer, but compatible rev) and was pretty open about that they should be cross compatible when I emailed them.

Curious, what does it look like if you simply took the LZ artwork off the ELs? Is it a plain black strip or does it look like a bare mess of electronics? Yeah, I could go peek on my LE but I'm guessing one of you already took a look.