Burnsville, MN
Quoted from MnHotRod:I'm looking for a nice EBD. If anyone has a lead, please let me know. Would love to join the club.
Sent you a PM days ago. Let me know when you want to come take a look at it..
(Topic ID: 66114)
Linked Games
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1981-
Eight Ball Deluxe
Bally, 1984
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Eight Ball Deluxe Limited Edition
Bally, 1982
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My EBD is now for sale. I am going to post an ad up hopefully later today, but i'll throw up a couple pics now. Price is 1800.00 Playfield is mylared. Has a few wear spots in the normal areas. There is a small piece of mylar missing that started to come up so I removed it by the right sling. Doesn't really affect gameplay now. This is the 1st version. Cabinet has some typical wear but presents fairly well, overall about a 7. Repainted the trim on the backbox to match, looks good. Backglass is nice except for one small spot, only visible when all DELUXE letters are lit. Will add more details later. Overall pretty nice looking machine. Been almost completely trouble free for 8 years. Hate to sell, but have BR on the way and need room. Sorry for the bad pics, looks better in person. PM me for more details or pics.EBD 1.jpgEBD 6.jpgEBD 5.jpgEBD 2.jpgEBD 8.jpgEBD 4.jpg
11 months later
1 month later
Previous member of the club, and hoping to rejoin soon. Ok all you EBD owners here, help me out. Previously owned a '81 version for years and sold it a year ago. Prefer the '81. but have my sights on a pretty nice '84 Midway version. Basically new PF (said about a 100 plays on it), decent cabinet other than a little fade, good BG. Overall, pretty nice. Other than cosmetic differences etc, how does the '84 compare to the '81 in your minds? As far as I know they play EXACTLY the same, correct? I guess I'm just looking for opinions and thoughts on the '84, and a price check. Thanks in advance, and miss being a member dearly. Few pics..eb 6.jpgunnamed.jpgeb.jpgeb 2.jpgeb 8.jpgeb 9.jpgeb3.jpg
Quoted from chuckwurt:Wow. that looks great. I would say grab it up! I think most that prefer the OG is the value factor, but from what I hear it is very hard to find one in any sort of decent shape. But this is coming from a guy that owns the LE with a playfield overlay. I think a lot of people would say the value of mine is much lower because of the overlay, but it looks and plays great, and that is all that matters to me!
He wants a minimum of 2400, likely more. Says he has an offer of 2750. Not sure I want to go that high?
Quoted from jdoz2:That sounds insanely high
Well, that was my initial thought. Now if it was the original version, I could see it. Does look pretty decent, but that just seems to be too much. Another '84 out here in my area sold for 2400 to a local retailer, he was asking 2800. Are these getting that expensive? A retailer paying 2400 for a '84? Don't think I'm getting another EBD for awhile 
Quoted from mof:I'm no EBD price expert. Here's how I'd think it through.
I'd figure BEST CASE pickup on an EBD with a great cab/BG is $1000, throw in cleared/touched PF/plastics for $1000, erase all sweat equity. I think $2000 is your min pickup price on that, and $2400 is reasonable, if it's a solid 9/10+ all around. $2750 sounds high to me for that title. I'd prefer to be in for $1800-$2000 on that (if there's a chance you'll move it out again in a few yrs.)
-mof
When I add another one, it's not leaving again. I offered 2200 straight up, he said no. He wants my nice Black Rose even trade. I say no. I value it at 2500 minimum. I said EBD + 300.00 for BR. He's thinking about it...
Quoted from mof:Yeah, if it's a lifetime keeper, then the importance of "what I got it for" lowers in value for me. $300 won't matter either way to me 10+ years from now. On the other hand, if it's a rotation pin, then price is really important to me.
-mof
If I had what he wants for it, I'd likely pay it or very close to it. That's how bad I miss EBD
Quoted from Gatecrasher:The 84-85 "Classic" edition Bally/Midway EBD is a decent pin. I don't know why it is called the "Classic". The apron score cards say "Limited Edition" and the apron is identical to the previous Limited Edition too. Also referred to as the "Nice Guy" version.
Play is identical to the other two versions. One improvement to the playfield are the under playfield lamp circuit boards with twist-in #555 sockets.
The cabinets used decals instead of painted graphics. The decals always faded if exposed to UV. Cabinets can be stripped and repainted if desired but you must make your own stencils.
I paid $1200 a few years ago for one and fully restified it with a touched-up and clear-coated immaculate playfield, repainted cabinet, and blinged-out trim. Sold it for $4,000 on eBay.
Thanks for the information. I did not know the cabinet was decaled, and not painted. Makes a difference. Especially without stencils available. I knew about the upgrade on the circuit boards. Appreciate the input.
9 months later
Quoted from Curbfeeler:Hi guys. I decided to post pics of my beautiful machine. I have actually been meaning to post this thread for the past 4 years. Sad that only now when I am considering selling I get this done :S
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/ebd-restoration-thread-4-years-tardy
Dan
PS: Also thanks for the pricing suggestions before.
If this is going up for sale, I AM interested. Been looking for another since I sold mine
3 weeks later
Quoted from jeffspinballpalace:Anybody have an EBD they are ready to list? I am looking for a restored EBD with CPR playfield. Prefer the Midway edition, yet other versions are welcome, but don't want an LE. pm with details.
Try Mike (Bonzo442) He had a pretty nice one he was looking to move. It's the original '81, and it's nice..
1 month later
1 week later
2 months later
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:I ordered a full repro set of plastics.
If anyone needs individual plastics let me know... small donation/shipping only. Not trying to make money (that's why i'm not putting them on eBay)
Where did you find a full set of repo plastics? I need most of them, except for the slingshot plastics..
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:https://www.pinball.co.uk/?s=eight+ball+deluxe+plastic&cat=0&post_type=product
They're actually cheaper than what is listed here. I paid 99pound plus shipping. all total about 160-170. Expensive, but I needed new.
If you aren't looking for "perfect" send a PM or pic here of the ones you need, I can give you my old once I get the new in. Just ordered.
I'll take some pics of the ones I really need this weekend and post them here. Thanks....
Quoted from JonH123:I picked up a nice original over the weekend. Just trying to find out if I got a good deal.
The cab has either been repainted or it's original in near perfect condition. The playfield is a 9 out of 10. I guess I won't need the repro playfield that I bought. All the electronics were gone over/updated and the legs look new. The only bad thing is the back glass is peeling with some cracked and missing paint spots by the eight ball. I paid $2500. I just need to find a better backglass.
Fair deal on your EBD IMO. I MAY be interested in that repo PF you have?
1 month later
Quoted from Nevus:Wow that's an interesting conversion.
I think if looks ok. Until you see pics of the cabinet. A bit too much for me.
2 months later
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:Not sure how many others use the High Scores function on Pinside, but I like to keep track of my scores using it. I have a dilemma when it comes to my EBD scores....
I have an '84 classic edition...I noticed there are only a few scores listed there. Looking at the original 81, there are many more scores. All theee versions have its own high scores list.
Since the game plays the same on all three versions, where should I put my scores to have a good gauge of how I compare to other players of EBD?
I personally would just put your score up on the correct version I assume, or all 3? Wish they had just one High Score list since yes, they do the play the same.
Quoted from MrBellMan:MY SOUND ISSUE???
My EBD sometimes has moments of no sounds when my credits roll up after a ball drain. Is this normal? I'm thinking it is normal because I have changed sound cards, sound chips and sound files, but it never changes. Just curious...
My game still plays awesome!
Not sure what you mean about credits rolling up after a ball drain? You mean points assume? like drop targets collected. Mine doesn't have moments of no sounds. Unless you roll the targets, and are on the 2nd or 3rd time through, then yes, there is a pause in between the 1st, 2nd and beyond in the countdown of pts. That make sense?
Quoted from MrBellMan:Correct. Bonus points when the ball drains. I will sometimes have a moment of silence while the points are rolling up and then the sound will kick in before the points update is finished. I will have to try and get a video of it happening.
PS. Credit roll up comes from the slot machine side of me!
Kind of hard to say without seeing and hearing it. I know my current original EBD, not my 1st one, counts down the points probably twice as fast as my 1st one. Not sure why? Different ROMs or different sound board? Liked it better on my 1st one though. Counts too fast now
4 weeks later
Quoted from chuckwurt:My EBD Looked exactly the same as the above picture and it was all LEDs. It's possible to make it look nice IMO.
Agree. Most of my topside has cool white LED's, and it looks great IMO. My 1st EBD I had all incandescent bulbs, I like it better on my 2nd one with LEDs. Personal choice is all it is. Depends on what you use, and where you put them too.. my .02
Quoted from dragdaily12:Started making the custom wood apron.
Awfully nice. Looks great..
1 week later
Quoted from MMP:Here are a few pics of my game as it sits. This will be the oldest model game I've ever owned, so looking forward to learning a few things. Bought this one not really knowing much about it, and very pleased after closer inspection. No mylar and very little wear to speak of. Little bit around the pop bumpers and small planking near the B switch. Inside cab is much cleaner than I'd expect from a game this age.
That PF looks pretty nice to me. Wish mine looked that good, not that mine is bad, but. Considering no mylar, I'd be pretty pleased with it. Enjoy it. Best SS game there is...Congrats
Quoted from alimerick:Looks like yellow is closer to correct. Thank You
HOME now. Here are a couple pics of the apron on my current EBD
Quoted from Captive_Ball:Your EBD has the plastic inlanes on top instead of on the bottom. Interesting. Mine only has the metal guides.
My 1st EBD had just the metal guides. This one came with new plastic ones too. Wasn't sure where to the plastic ones, top or bottom or not at all. Likely just go to metal only. Looks better. I never have a problem with ball hop.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:The lower lane guides are on upside down. The clear plastic piece is supposed to be below the metal piece.
On EBD the ball is never supposed to touch the metal guide. The clear plastic is so it doesn't scratch the ball and metal guide isn't ruined (like a lot of them are from having them backwards like these). Plus the illumination is correct with the clear piece below the metal one.
That's what I always thought. I may switch them around, or I may just ditch the plastic. Never cared for the look, and it never damaged the ball before on my old EBD with just metal guides.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:EBD is my specialty pin having restored a ton of them and I have seen numerous metal lane guides ruined from the owner placing them where the plastic guide piece is supposed to go. The metal guides not only scratch the ball which accelerates playfield wear, the guide itself is also ruined. After a while the metal guide will develop a burr on the leading edge. I've seen some worn so bad they are no longer functional.
Not to mention the illumination looks like shit with the metal guides blocking the light when placed in the wrong location.
The correct set-up is to have the metal guide on top with the replaceable plastic guide below. The metal guides are simply "garnishes" and are cosmetic. They are not supposed to touch the ball.
I know EBD is your specialty. Been sort of my "specialty" as well being my favorite pin etc. and having owned it twice and played the crap out of in the 80's. And I also know I shouldn't have just the metal guides on there. I think I've read ever one of your posts on this thread over time because you know your EBD. With that said, I will put the plastics on the bottom and the metal guides up top...
1 week later
Quoted from MMP:I'm going to be likely purchasing the entire drop target set as well. What is BAA?
Bay Area Amusements. They've been out of stock for a long time. Marco shows them, but there much higher priced.
Quoted from MrBellMan:Buy your drop targets at Pinball Resource. If you don't have an account, open one. Steve is a great resource for Classic Bally games!
Rob Bell
Robsgameroom.com
Thanks Rob. Never bought from them before. Checked out the site last week. Little different web page to navigate through. You typically just email him with what your looking for or ?
Quoted from MrBellMan:Yep. Email is the best way to order from them. It's true they don't have great web based buying, but if you can get past that, they have great service, products and prices.
Pinball Resource is good people!
Good luck!
Thank you.........
Quoted from MrBellMan:Yep. Email is the best way to order from them. It's true they don't have great web based buying, but if you can get past that, they have great service, products and prices.
Pinball Resource is good people!
Good luck!
Thanks again. Got 'em ordered and on the way.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I have posted these pics on here before but will do it again for those who haven't seen them.
I've developed a very easy technique to remove the metal posts and then re-form them to be re-used with the replacement plastics.
All you need is a lighter and something round that you can fit inside the metal post to pry it out of the plastic. Then you will need a wire stripper/crimper to re-form the top of the post.
I take the lighter and just wave it a few times underneath the metal post. About three seconds will do it. It comes out real easy. You don't want to overheat it or the plastics will be all gooey. You can still remove the post it's just messier to clean up if you overheat it. You'll get the hang of heating the post. Same goes if you use a soldering iron which works too. I've just found the lighter technique to be a little faster and easier.
This method works great Crash. Took a bit longer with the lighter in my case, but they came out with ease. Must say, crimping the top of the post is somewhat of a pain, but once you get it down, it's relatively simple, and effective. Have the upper right plastics all done, just upper left side left to go. Maybe i'll post some pics when done.
Quoted from Gatecrasher:You get good at crimping the top of the posts after doing a few. You just work your way around the diameter of the post until you get it looking good. When you install the posts in the new plastics you can re-crimp the tops of the posts or leave them as-is. I never re-crimp them though. When you tighten the screws you re-crimp them to some extent.
Yep, the crimping got easier the more I did. Don't plan on re-crimping them once installed. Just wish they're weren't SO many posts to do on EBD. Took long enough to do the one side. Worth it though, it's gonna look so much nicer......
1 week later
Got a question or 2 on installing drop targets. This is my 2nd EBD, and the 2nd time I've installed all 12 drops. Don't remember very well on my 1st one doing them, it's been years. But right now I have the horseshoe targets and 8 ball targets out, hardware cleaned and changed over ready to go. Question 1, why are some of the targets SO dam hard to get out? The horseshoes on both ends were a pain, and the 8 ball target I had to break to get it out. No biggie as I have a new one. Also, the new 8 ball target will not fit through that opening. NO Way am I'm attaching from the topside on all these targets, then putting everything together. Haven't attempted to put the horseshoes back yet. I know the previous time the shoes were a little pesky, but not too bad. And, is it easier to detach that black bar where the springs attach for the horseshoe targets and hook up all the targets, then reinstall the bar and hope they all clear the opening to the PF, or just attach them 1 by 1 while the bar is still bolted on (probably harder, but) Just looking for some tips or tricks. Done it before, i'll do it again, just trying to make it easier... thanks
Quoted from Jgaltr56:I think I had to loosen the screws that attach the mech a bit to give the drops a little wiggle room when inserting up through the playfield.
Appreciate the tip. Check into it when I get back to it..
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Most full restorations, the complete assemblies are dropped out of the playfield and a new set of MOLEX plugs is added.
It is whole lot easier to work on the assemblies on your bench, upside down, in better light, and parts not falling into the cabinet.
Even if you are a "purist".
It also lets you clean the ENTIRE assemblies properly, and let you test the functionality manually with the targets on their side.
Thanks X. I know your right, the proper way is to fully remove everything etc. Makes it a lot easier I assume. Tons more time also which I don't have. I have such limited space too. Not into de soldering and soldering unless need be either. I did it this way before, so i'll make it work again. Appreciate the help. Was gonna also add, I basically tore apart the whole coil assembly when replacing the 8 ball target to make it fit easier. Didn't take one picture because I though it would go in easily without taking it all apart. It's back together, but not 100% sure if it's correct? And, is the washer on the coil stop supposed to be on the spring side or the coil side? I have it on the coil side. Feel like a moron not knowing for sure, been putzing with these things for years.
Quoted from dothedoo:Coil side is correct, to remove the play and keep the coil from slamming around.
So I'm fine with it set this way? Thought so. Thanks
1 week later
Quoted from Gatecrasher:They used to show them in the gallery but they don't seem to be there anymore.
Here are some pictures I copied from the CPR website back when they had them in their gallery. They still have the protective coating on them in the pic.
Love that Topper. Would like to find one
When I bought my most recent EBD, it was mostly LED'd on the topside of the PF. Backbox, inserts etc however are still incandescent. Likely going to convert to full LED. Maybe not the backbox, but maybe. Do I need to upgrade just the lamp driver board, or the aux lamp board too?
2 weeks later
Question EBD owners. Just recently shopped mine out. All new targets etc. Everything works fine, except the 8 ball target drops without hitting it. Enough nudge on the machine or one good vibration and she drops. Not the switch, it's fine. Plus when the machine is off,and the PF is up, I just give the housing around it underneath a swift slap and it drops. Spring or ? Any ideas?
Quoted from chuckwurt:was this target replaced too? Is the housing for the drop target worn at all? The shelf that the target sits on when up. Was the old target too sensitive too?
Yes, replaced the 8 ball target too. Little wear on the backside on top towards the special insert. Nothing in the front. And I never had a problem with the old target. Minimal wear at best shouldn't cause it to drop on a dime anyways I wouldn't think. Something is just "off" seems as though if the target was a bit closer towards the flippers, it might be fine? Didn't have a problem yrs ago when I did the same teardown on my 1st one.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Maybe the housing isn't sitting far enough forward? I had new targets that were too sensitive because the notch on the target that hangs on the housing when the target was up was way smaller than the stock target making it fall down way too easy. I carved out a bit more to give it more room to sit up there is that makes sense.
Somewhat makes sense I suppose. The entire "housing" underneath I did not take off. Just the bottom side so I could disassemble the target from the coil etc. I would think if you if you carved out more of that notch it'd be even more sensitive? Notch looks the same on on the new vs old if your referring to this notch.
Quoted from chuckwurt:Yep that's what I was talking about. That's all I got sorry. Haha. I took the housing completely apart on mine so that's weird you're having this issue with just replacing the target.
Btw did your dog get to that old target? Hahaha
Appreciate the input. Not sure what I'll do from here. Maybe disassemble it again and put it back together? Wish my dog got to the old target God rest his German Shepherd soul. He was our only kid....
Quoted from Bohdi:Question EBD owners. Just recently shopped mine out. All new targets etc. Everything works fine, except the 8 ball target drops without hitting it. Enough nudge on the machine or one good vibration and she drops. Not the switch, it's fine. Plus when the machine is off,and the PF is up, I just give the housing around it underneath a swift slap and it drops. Spring or ? Any ideas?
Still having issues with my 8 ball target dropping at random due to vibrations etc. Can someone just take a few pictures of the assembly from the bottom side, of the coil, where the target mounts to the bracket etc? Maybe a couple different angles? Just don't know what the problem is. ...
Quoted from MMP:I'll be home today working on EBD. Let me know if you need a different angle.
Appreciate the pics guys. I have it setup just right as I figured. I tried your tip Chuck, no dice on carving out the new target. Made it a bit worse actually. So, I tore it down again and tried a couple of my old "bullseye" targets from the inlane drops just to see, well, they work just fine? Go figure. Not sure what i'll do now. Leave the working one in I guess. My old 8 ball target is shot, so it is what is. Contacted Steve at Pinball Resource about trying a different 8 ball target. See what he says. Thanks again all.
Quoted from xTheBlackKnightx:Although, I just read the postings, most likely the new 8 Ball target has a bad mold lip and insufficient depth causing edge slip. If you measure the catch edge with a electronic caliper, I am sure you will see a difference in dimensions. An incorrect height on the target can also cause this effect unrelated to the spring tension.
As mentioned you need a new target, the mold was incorrectly poured.
PBR is sending another 8 ball target. Find out this week if the new one is any better. . . .
Quoted from Gatecrasher:One thing to look at is the top edge of the metal slot that the target rests on.
I've seen some that are worn at the edge which makes the target not rest on it properly when in the up position.
Another thing to look at is how the metal slot aligns with the opening in the playfield. Sometimes the factory mounting holes are a little off location and when installed there isn't enough clearance between the slot in the wood and the metal ledge for the target to rest on the metal ledge like it should.
Received my replacement 8 ball target yesterday. This one is actually worse than the 1st one. Target barely even stays in the up position. Putting the piece of shit bullseye target back in. The only target that works. I've given up...
Quoted from Gatecrasher:Never give up. Especially on something like this.
If one target works and another doesn't, the best thing to do is to try and make the one that doesn't work match the one that does. Take a file or whatever and modify the new one in the shelf area to match. Actually I think you have another problem if two brand-new targets won't work.
One thing to think about if this is considered an insurmountable problem to solve is that you are going to have a lot more difficult issues come up down the road crop-up with your pinball machine.
Consider it a challenge and take a break from it if you get frustrated. I know I do too sometimes. Revisit it a few days later when you have enough time to really get to the bottom of the problem without getting pissed off. Once you finally solve it, you'll be glad you did and will feel more confident later as other problems crop up.
It's a good feeling when you finally solve a nagging problem like this. One of the most-satisfying most of us get from the hobby.
Appreciate the advice Crash. I'll dig back into again another time. Just don't understand. The targets look identical. I actually just did some doctoring of the "working" target and re-installed it. Think it actually looks ok. Fuss with the new target another day when I'm really bored. Thanks again...
Quoted from chuckwurt:Whoa. Looks way better than an OG eight ball target if you ask me.
Thanks. You know, the more I look at it, the more I like it. Likely just leave it until the decal wears off. That should be a long time....
2 months later
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I think this is like the third or fourth time I've posted this but it comes up often so I'm glad I saved the pics. I think it's even posted earlier in this thread.
The soldering iron technique works but I prefer this method because it is faster and easier. All it takes is one or two seconds with a lighter. If you heat the post longer than that the plastic will start to melt. Not the end of the world but makes the job messier. Just a quick wave of the flame to heat the metal post is all you need and it will pull right out of the plastic.Now the post is ready to be inserted in the new plastic piece. You can re-crimp the post if you like or just leave it as-is (which is what I usually do). Once everything it screwed-down it's good to go.
This method works like a charm. Just takes a bit of practice straightening the flange.
1 month later
Quoted from Jesterfunhouse:I have an 8 Ball Deluxe LE that I am shopping out for a customer and a standard 8 ball deluxe I just picked up. How do I find out if its and 84' or 80' version?
'81 version has the lift out backglass, the '84 Midway version has the hinged backglass. The '84 has a solid black cabinet front. Sides of the backbox are different (good cowboy) on the '84. '81 is more cream, gold and black. '84 has more just yellow and black artwork and I believe there decals, not painted. Aprons are different. There are more differences but those are the obvious ones.
EBD 1 (resized).jpg
EBD 5 (resized).jpg
image-19 (resized).jpg
image-4 (resized).jpg
image-2 (resized).jpg
Quoted from Whysnow:Since I have a CPR version acquired, I now can offer up a nice example with a laminated overlay which I previously acquired that is available if anyone wants it. It originally came from a pro that is well known for his ability to apply these overlays and does a dman fine job of it. I picked it up for $450 and will sell it for the same if anyone is looking.
Have any pics of it Hilton? I'd possibly be interested, possibly, just tapped out at the moment
1 month later
Quoted from greatwichjohn:I'm working on the last of my 3 EBD playfield restorations. These will get 2 more coats of varethane. Then I will install my cold laminated overlay on top. These should be ready to ship to USA next week. 2 will be $400 US each, & worse one $350 US shipped. Let me know since these are the last ones I will do!
These playfields get many hours of work from start to finish. Bottom will get a fresh coat of gray paint.
Might be interested in one. Post some pics when finished if possible.
3 weeks later
3 months later
Quoted from Nevus:I posted this in a few other places but wanted to share my newly restored EBD back from restoration today!
Gatecrasher parts.
Cleared NOS playfield
Titan rubbers
I’m using an Alltek lamp driver board, but I have the original sound board.
VERY nice! Who did the resto?
4 weeks later
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Anyone else have this problem? It only happens on an extremely slow moving ball, but it's happened more than once.
This is a new CPR playfield and I've got the drop targets flush with the playfield. I also have the entire mech mounted with the targets as close to the front of the playfield as possible.
Oddly enough, I've got an operator friend's game I've been using as a reference and the same thing happens on his and the drop targets are a tad higher than the playfield on his.
I'm stumped.
Happens on mine too, ALL the time. Gets frustrating, but I deal with it.
Quoted from Bryan_Kelly:Maybe not the prettiest, but they work. Wish I could have laser cut them.
Not sure I like the look. I might leave them until one of my friends asks, "WTF are those?" Then they get yanked and I deal with the ball traps.
I think they look ok. I wouldn't mind having them on mine. Nice job BK
4 weeks later
Quoted from emkay:I have one but was waiting until I did my playfield swap to install it. I'll see about throwing it on for a quick pic this weekend.
Thanks, that would be great if you could. REALLY want to see what It looks like installed..
Quoted from orangegsx:Anyone have an extra one of these plastic peices they would get rid of? Doesn't have to be new. Just something to get me by until cpr releases another run and I do a restore. Thanks.
I might. I'll try and remember to check tonight. .
Quoted from Bohdi:I might. I'll try and remember to check tonight. .
Don't have that plastic, sorry
3 weeks later
Quoted from Pmaino:Does anyone know where to get the inlane ball return plastics? I know cliffy makes metal ones but I was hoping to keep it close to the original with clear plastics. The ones I have are from Bay Area amusements but clearly they were not strong enough. Look what a wild airball did to mine.
I MIGHT have an extra one at home. I'll check later. .
Quoted from Pmaino:Thanks!
Got one. Still has the protective film on it. You need 1 or 2? I have 2.
2 weeks later
Quoted from SteveO:What are Eight Ball Deluxe's going for these days? I am going to look at one that is from the original run (not an LE) with a backglass that swings out. Backglass and playfield are nice, new displays and new drop targets, works 100%. Cabinet is good to fair, black powdercoating on rails and coin door.
If you pick it up, post some pics. Curious what an EBD looks like with Black side rails and coin door. Definitely would look better on a '84 version vs the '81 Original.
Quoted from indypinhead:Keep in mind that the '84 run have cabinebts that are made of particle board, not plywood.
And it's not stenciled. Don't think you can find decals for the '84 either. I've never seen them available anyways
Quoted from SteveO:Seller decided to keep it even though he already owns a restored one.
Well that HOARDER>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
10 months later
Quoted from Spiderpin:Does this machine take the standard glass 43" X 21" Thanks in advance
Yes
Quoted from FiatsRUs:I have two early EBDs and both of them need the backglass surround repainted. Does anyone have the mixing formula or a paint brand/color code that is a good match for the yellowish/cream color?
You find your paint code yet for the backbox trim? If not I can post a pic and details of what I have later today after I get home
Quoted from FiatsRUs:I have two early EBDs and both of them need the backglass surround repainted. Does anyone have the mixing formula or a paint brand/color code that is a good match for the yellowish/cream color?
Here's the paint I used. And as you know the code is not ledgable 
Hopefully get it from S/W tomorrow
20190220_173640 (resized).jpg20190220_173611 (resized).jpg 4 months later
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.[quoted image][quoted image]
I might be interested. Curious what postage would be to Mpls?
1 month later
4 months later
Quoted from ranman2001:Hey Guys, I have an 81 EBD looking to touch up back glass surround and some of the side art. Anyone have the formula or a paint brand/color code for the Cream/Custard and Golden Yellow
I think i have the code somewhere. I've touched up my backbox on both my EBDs. I'll look this weekend if I have time. Matched pretty much perfectly
Quoted from ranman2001:Hey Guys, I have an 81 EBD looking to touch up back glass surround and some of the side art. Anyone have the formula or a paint brand/color code for the Cream/Custard and Golden Yellow
Found it. Had Sherwin Williams mix it up and turned out great. I always use them because they match it about perfectly.
ebd paint (resized).jpg 3 weeks later
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I'm going with bayonet style on mine. I absolutely hate wedges. Not going to use those any time I get a choice.
Yep, bayonets for sure. I've replaced a fair share on mine. CANNOT stand those wedges either. Just a PITA IMO
Quoted from BlueIrocGuy:Thanks for the replies, guys! I’ll have to look for a source now to supply me with a load of new bayonet sockets.
PBL is where i always get them. Terry's the best. .
1 month later
Quoted from lordloss:Picked up a partially parted out pf May restore someday
[quoted image]
Just a little Novus 2 i think would shine that PF up nicely 
Quoted from lordloss:For $60, I can't complain. It was missing flipper mechs, and a few light sockets, otherwise all the major components were there
Not a bad price at all for sure. Parts alone are well above that. Nice pick up.
1 month later
Quoted from matiou:I joined the club few months ago when I bought a project machine.
My "bringing back to life" thread: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bringing-back-to-life-an-eight-ball-deluxe[quoted image]
Nah, that's not a project. Little Novus 1-2-3 and a couple fuses and your good to go..
2 months later
Quoted from matiou:Quick color question to the community... Is there a commercially available paint which is more or less matching the cream/custard color of the 81 cabinet ?
Sherwin Williams
I painted the frame on the backbox and looks fabulous
ebd paint (resized).jpg 1 month later
Quoted from wendyb:WOW! I love that you put an 8 ball on the plunger! super! can you tell me how you did that?? I have lot of spare pool balls and would love to try that! thank you!
I didn't put the 8 ball on my shooter rod. That's how it was when i bought it. You can find the 8 ball shooter rods online. Just can't remember where i've seen them
Quoted from phillyfan64:CPR says give it at least 30 days to cure. What’s the general consensus on storing these during that time? Flat, standing on end like the photo, standing long ways? Does it even matter?
I would say, store it in my basement 
2 weeks later
Quoted from Soulrider911:HEy ksuwildcatfan I love custom projects if you have an idea please let me know most likely I can make one.
Also I am going to start Painting the backboxes cream to be more accurate [quoted image]
Seen these before on Ebay. At least something similar. What are the dimensions, and how much is shipping? I'd probably be interested in a '81 with a cream backbox
Quoted from Soulrider911:Not sure about the ones on EBAY, I had seen some in the past but the detail was no where near these, and the artwork resolution was very low. These decals are SUPER crisp and printed on a high end ink jet printer. They are very Vibrant.
Yes when you order on my ETSY you can choose trim color This link should work
https://www.etsy.com/shop/factoryoffun/
Thank you so much mbeardsley
When you have the '81 EBD's on the site i'll probably order one. Still curious just how big or small they are
Quoted from Soulrider911:Need a lovely minature version of your full sized pin at your desk? I decided to make some they can be found on my Etsy
https://www.etsy.com/your/shops/FactoryofFun/tools/listings?ref=seller-platform-mcnav
[quoted image][quoted image]
Quoted from Soulrider911:They are about 1/24 scale roughly 4.5" tall
Also little confused on what"81 EBD" is? Was is a different version / special model?
The '81 is the 2nd one you pictured with the black backbox. The 1st one pictured is the the '82 LE model.
1 month later
Quoted from Lovef2k:Might be because the same drops are used for other players that have the stripes and are different numbers. Might make it confusing.
This is the reason there horseshoes and not ball numbers..
2 weeks later
Quoted from djblouw:Take this with a grain of salt, but here's my input:
I like the kit from PBR the best. But their flipper bushing are 1/16" too short, and causes the flipper to *almost* drag on the pf. With a little bit of bushing wear, it would be touching the pf--not good! So I use the bushings from Pinball Life. This issue has been on multiple kits from PBR.
I've not had good luck with the full kit from Pinball Life. There always seems to be some odd sort of binding occurring. I've narrowed it down to the coil stops, but just can't figure out what's different about them.
I haven't used a kit from Marco in while, but the last one I bought worked fine, IIRC.
Thanks! I usually use PBL and PBR. Haven't used Marco in awhile so maybe i'll try there kits. I may shop around around too, unsure. Just want a "complete" kit.
Quoted from FatPanda:7yrs on Pinsde and the first time rebuilding flippers?! You're 6.5 years overdue
Yeah, pretty sad isn't it. Well, I don't normally keep pins a long time for starters. And i've had great luck with what i have and had. Just that i had my 2nd EBD now for roughly 5 years and it's time. Plus one flipper just has been bugging me for over 2 years. Like it has a mind of it's own sometimes.
Quoted from FatPanda:It's not hard. I've had good results from Pinball Life as well as Pinball Resource. Quality parts IMO from either place. Make sure you get a flipper gauge or cut one out of an old credit card for spacing the flipper bat to the bushing:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0162-00
Thanks Quy for the link. Guessing when the time comes, i'll just use a credit card or something similar. Sure it will be awhile, like dead of winter when there is NOTHING to do..
3 weeks later
Quoted from phillyfan64:Not a do it yourself but I bought this from a vendor on this forum.
[quoted image][quoted image]
https://superskillshot.com/
Looks similar to mine.
Resized_20161220_145310 (resized).jpegResized_20170328_171545(1) (resized).jpeg 2 weeks later
Quoted from Gatecrasher:I'll take the amber. You guys can have the white.
Agreed....
2 months later
Quoted from frunch:Has anyone had trouble with the ball jumping over the saucer in the back behind the 8 ball? I finally got my EBDLE back together and that's one of the last issues I'm trying to sort out. Suggestions?
Funny, i'm on my 2nd EBD, and have owned the 2 for a total of probably 8 or 9 years and have had this happen maybe a half a dozen times
7 months later
Quoted from pinzrfun:New EBD owner here!
Bought from online auction, knew it was pretty much gonna be a total restore going in. Waiting for another CPR pf run, dont think I want to go the hardtop route. Really looking forward to tearing into this one ~
[quoted image][quoted image]
Dam! She's been sitting for awhile. Just add a rubber ring set and you should be good to go. Good luck on the restore. Well worth it on this title
6 months later
What's a fairly decent/nice '81 version worth in today's market? I'm looking at selling mine, but having a tough time putting a price on it. It's got wear on the in-lanes up top and the sides on the bottom, and a few small spots by the 8 ball target and in front of the inlane drops. Overall the PF shows well since it's mostly mylared. Newer drop targets and plastics, and newer legs and levelers. Repainted the backbox frame. Solid cabinet. Nice backglass. Shows at probably a 7 or maybe 8. Overall a solid EBD. Mid or low $3K??
Quoted from mbeardsley:$3500 seems reasonable - though with the crazy pinflation these days, I could maybe see you get $4K.
Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Don't think i'd ask 4K, but $3500 or $3600 is what i'm thinking.
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