(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

7 years ago



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  • Latest reply 2 hours ago by Gatecrasher
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There are 3701 posts in this topic. You are on page 72 of 75.
#3551 58 days ago

Has anyone tried the set of clear plastics from Playfield Protectors? Do they exhibit the same issues?

https://www.playfield-protectors.com/Home/Details/k-P8fMH7BUyaJZcTYDBoow?categoryid=24&category=-&name=Eight%20Ball%20Deluxe%20%7C%201981

#3552 58 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Typical Marco. Color me unsurprised. PBR is a much better resource, but holy gawd the ordering process stinks lol.
Would the proper sockets for the inserts be the 6th ones down -- A2916? I figure I might be willing to do that nonsense later on down the road, like when I have the playfield out of the cab for an extended period of time so I can repaint it. Might as well order them now if so.

Yes A2916 is the correct one for the inserts although I think for these I actually got sockets from Marco. If you get these from PBR just pay attention to this drawing because it has 2 tabs. Yes, their ordering is kind of ancient. I usually just email Jimmy with my list.

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#3554 58 days ago

Yes I believe so. I’m not a fan of the double tabs that’s why I didn’t get the insert sockets from PBR. I have used them in other games and they’re perfectly fine though. I think HEP uses the double tabs because sometimes he wires his games differently.

#3555 58 days ago

I'd try them but shipping is bonkers.

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#3556 58 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

I'd try them but shipping is bonkers.[quoted image]

Yeah, the best way is to buy them with a pf protector (for a different game). But I think I've seen them on epay every now-and-then.

#3557 58 days ago
Quoted from djblouw:

Yeah, the best way is to buy them with a pf protector (for a different game). But I think I've seen them on epay every now-and-then.

Yeah, that or a group buy of some sort. Seems like that would be kind of counter productive but at 40 euros shipping...yeesh.

#3558 57 days ago

Can someone post a decent picture of the left pop bumper switch wiring? The pop lights are working correctly but switch #38 is stuck on even if I isolate the switch contacts. May have goofed the wiring when I resoldered them.

Here is a pic for fresh eyes to maybe notice anything obviously not right. The blue wire coming in is actually the double green just consolidated in a solder sleeve to make my life easier.

1606335234646623358232237805028 (resized).jpg16063353846606455910441685245802 (resized).jpg
#3559 57 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

Can someone post a decent picture of the left pop bumper switch wiring? The pop lights are working correctly but switch #38 is stuck on even if I isolate the switch contacts. May have goofed the wiring when I resoldered them.
Here is a pic for fresh eyes to maybe notice anything obviously not right. The blue wire coming in is actually the double green just consolidated in a solder sleeve to make my life easier.[quoted image][quoted image]

Switch for left pop bumper is White-Brown... you have Brown-White,
which is the right pop bumper.

#3560 57 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Yikes! I think my old ones ended up getting reinstalled for the time being. Not really sure where to go with it. Kind of the same deal with that curved plastic that apparently shouldn't be.

ksuwildcatfan - not exactly elegant, but I jury rigged mine enough that I'm happy with it until the day comes when I find properly drilled plastic lane guides.

So the new holes I drilled (because the existing ones on the new plastic don't line up with the playfield or the metal guide)....I just made them bigger. Much bigger.

Pro - it allows me to adjust exactly where I need the guide to be so that the ball transition from guide to flipper is butter smooth with no hop. Get the guide where you want, hold it firm with one hand, then screw it down into place with the other.

Con - the plastic guide rests on the bell as opposed to the bell being attached to it. That means any time you remove the in-lane guides for cleaning/etc, you have to spend a few minutes getting your adjustments right when you put them back on.

Here's a pic - I should've wiped up Dremel plastic dust before taking it. Now that I'm pretty satisfied with this approach, I may re-do the right one so that the widened hole isn't so big or offset that much that you can see it outside of the bell. Of the 4 holes I did, this is the only one that's visible. Or I may let this go as-is until I find the properly templeted/drilled guides if my OCD doesn't go into overdrive.

In-Lane Guides (Right) Annotated (resized).jpg
#3561 57 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Switch for left pop bumper is White-Brown... you have Brown-White,
which is the right pop bumper.

DOH!!!!

Thanks for the help!!

#3562 57 days ago

All switches working great now except for the pop bumpers. They work fine but need tuning. Problem is I cant tighten the switch stacks because they mount directly into the lower part of the plastic body and the threaded holes are also plastic and are stripped out. Is there any work around for this? Or is buying new lower bodies the solution? Obviously I need new spoons too. Was just trying to get it playing for now.

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#3563 57 days ago

Spoon looks great to me.... lmao

#3564 57 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

All switches working great now except for the pop bumpers. They work fine but need tuning. Problem is I cant tighten the switch stacks because they mount directly into the lower part of the plastic body and the threaded holes are also plastic and are stripped out. Is there any work around for this? Or is buying new lower bodies the solution? Obviously I need new spoons too. Was just trying to get it playing for now.
[quoted image]

There should be a metal insert inside the plastic.

#3565 57 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

There should be a metal insert inside the plastic.

Bingo!

#3566 56 days ago

I see in post 3558 that somebody used wood screws to the secure the switched but in post 3562 the correct screws are installed. I would bet $ that the metal plates are still under the bumper bases. IIRC the thread for the switch screws is 4-40 machine screw about 1.125 inches long.

#3567 55 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I see in post 3558 that somebody used wood screws to the secure the switched but in post 3562 the correct screws are installed. I would bet $ that the metal plates are still under the bumper bases. IIRC the thread for the switch screws is 4-40 machine screw about 1.125 inches long.

I would bet $ that if the "plate" is about .25" x .50" that my shop vac ate one of them when I was vacuuming the cabinet. Wasnt quite sure what it was at the time but it was about the right size. I'll see if I can fish it out with a magnet.

#3568 55 days ago
Quoted from FLASHBALL:

I would bet $ that if the "plate" is about .25" x .50" that my shop vac ate one of them when I was vacuuming the cabinet. Wasnt quite sure what it was at the time but it was about the right size. I'll see if I can fish it out with a magnet.

Vacuum service usually costs extra!

#3569 51 days ago

Do I jump on this at $550 for future use, or do I run away screaming?

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#3570 51 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Do I jump on this at $550 for future use, or do I run away screaming?
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

That's an OEM second generation Bally EBD playfield.
If you are interested in saving it, have kruzman protect it.
kruzman

#3573 50 days ago

Planning on giving this hardtop a good trial run before I consider dumping HUGE amounts of cash into this thing, as with a swap or anything. Seems silly to do anything else at this point.

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#3575 47 days ago

My pop bumper cap experiment seems to be a success.

Rather than continuing to buy EBD caps at $12 bucks (or more) each (when they are available), I purchased a bunch of "plain" amber caps from Pinball Resource at $3 each. Then, I used a laser printer to print the EBD image onto 2" clear labels, and applied the labels to the "clear" caps. The results are pretty good.

The first picture shows my result on the left, with a regular EBD cap on the right (with a bunch of my broken "dead soldiers" behind them).
The second picture shows them installed on my machine.

This won't solve the problem of them breaking so often, but at least they will be much cheaper to replace when they do (and they don't have the ugly screw holes in them either).

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#3576 47 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

My pop bumper cap experiment seems to be a success.
Rather than continuing to buy EBD caps at $12 bucks (or more) each (when they are available), I purchased a bunch of "plain" amber caps from Pinball Resource at $3 each. Then, I used a laser printer to print the EBD image onto 2" clear labels, and applied the labels to the "clear" caps. The results are pretty good.
The first picture shows my result on the left, with a regular EBD cap on the right (with a bunch of my broken "dead soldiers" behind them).
The second picture shows them installed on my machine.
This won't solve the problem of them breaking so often, but at least they will be much cheaper to replace when they do (and they don't have the ugly screw holes in them either).
[quoted image][quoted image]

Nice work! Looks good.

#3577 46 days ago

I've been meaning to post this for a while, and I realized that it is visible in the picture of my game above.

If you notice the inserts of the left lane (to the left of the multiplier drop targets), my machine has the inserts for 70K and extra ball swapped.
It was like that when I got it (in 1984) and am pretty sure that it was just a manufacturing mistake.

I have not seen any other EBD playfields with that mistake, so I don't think that there was a bad run of playfields or anything. I think my playfield was just put together on a Monday.

Anybody else ever see one like this?

#3578 46 days ago

Oops never mind, you’re talking about the insert colors.

#3579 46 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

I've been meaning to post this for a while, and I realized that it is visible in the picture of my game above.
If you notice the inserts of the left lane (to the left of the multiplier drop targets), my machine has the inserts for 70K and extra ball swapped.
It was like that when I got it (in 1984) and am pretty sure that it was just a manufacturing mistake.
I have not seen any other EBD playfields with that mistake, so I don't think that there was a bad run of playfields or anything. I think my playfield was just put together on a Monday.
Anybody else ever see one like this?

What is your playfield like on the back underside?

#3580 46 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

What is your playfield like on the back underside?

It looks "normal", meaning that there is no sign that they were ever removed/changed. I can take a picture if you think it is important, but I don't think that you will see anything useful.

It is one of the "early" EBD-LE playfields (with single lamp sockets instead of the lamp circuit boards), but I doubt that it is really relevant.

#3581 46 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

It looks "normal", meaning that there is no sign that they were ever removed/changed. I can take a picture if you think it is important, but I don't think that you will see anything useful.
It is one of the "early" EBD-LE playfields (with single lamp sockets instead of the lamp circuit boards), but I doubt that it is really relevant.

Anything is possible in pinball. People screw up, it's normal. I have seen mistakes with wiring on connectors. I bought a CPR Xenon pf that had blue inserts where the green ones go, the 4 at the top.

I also noticed 2 variations with EBD, some have translucent red inserts and some opaque.

#3582 46 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Anything is possible in pinball. People screw up, it's normal. I have seen mistakes with wiring on connectors. I bought a CPR Xenon pf that had blue inserts where the green ones go, the 4 at the top.
I also noticed 2 variations with EBD, some have translucent red inserts and some opaque.

I was wondering if the playfield was a 2nd.

#3583 46 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

I was wondering if the playfield was a 2nd.

Well, I guess that depends upon your definition of a "2nd".

It is the original playfield...not a reproduction.

If by 2nd, you mean a playfield that "has issues", then, yes.
If you mean, "sold for less money", then, no.

#3584 46 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

If by 2nd, you mean a playfield that "has issues", then, yes.

Ding, ding.
Back in the day, you had to order from the distributor for your parts.
Bally always sold you their leftover 2nds if you where lucky.
Most of the time, when ordering a playfield you would get the dreaded NLA.

#3585 46 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

Ding, ding.
Back in the day, you had to order from the distributor for your parts.
Bally always sold you their leftover 2nds if you where lucky.
Most of the time, when ordering a playfield you would get the dreaded NLA.

I'm still not sure what you mean here.

The playfield that I am talking about is the original one that the machine was built with - it is not a replacement.
I believe that it was simply manufactured incorrectly, and either no one noticed, or they figured it wouldn't really matter to anyone.

TBH, I owned the machine for a few years before I realized that other EBDs were not the same as mine.

#3586 46 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

I believe that it was simply manufactured incorrectly, and either no one noticed, or they figured it wouldn't really matter to anyone.

True. I think it slipped by quality control.
Bally never wasted a playfield.
I bought a Bally Centaur NOS and it is a 2nd.
They ran out of amber inserts and used amber rollover button inserts,
because the inserts are the same size.

#3587 45 days ago

Just joined the club this past weekend after years of hunting for one for my collection! So excited!!

I'm looking for a new set of drop targets, does anyone recommend buying them from a particular place?

Also, where can i get new bumper caps with the EBD stamp on them? I'd also like to replace the outer part of the caps as well if i can get them.

Thanks!

#3588 45 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

I'm looking for a new set of drop targets, does anyone recommend buying them from a particular place?

Also, where can i get new bumper caps with the EBD stamp on them? I'd also like to replace the outer part of the caps as well if i can get them.

Pinball resource

#3589 44 days ago
Quoted from mbeardsley:

The first picture shows my result on the left, with a regular EBD cap on the right (with a bunch of my broken "dead soldiers" behind them).
The second picture shows them installed on my machine.
This won't solve the problem of them breaking so often, but at least they will be much cheaper to replace when they do (and they don't have the ugly screw holes in them either).
[quoted image][quoted image]

Would it be a good idea to glue the caps right away before they break ? To make them more resistant and avoid the little tabs to break ?

#3590 44 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

Would it be a good idea to glue the caps right away before they break ? To make them more resistant and avoid the little tabs to break ?

Maybe, I just don't like the way the hot glue looks. And using more permanent glue will cause problems when you need to replace the bulbs.

#3591 43 days ago

Eeeeeeee!!!! Might be ready for pickup by this weekend!

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#3592 43 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Eeeeeeee!!!! Might be ready for pickup by this weekend!
[quoted image]

Those white caps are so purdy!

#3593 43 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Those white caps are so purdy!

Man, they really are. I love love love them!

#3594 43 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Those white caps are so purdy!

The white caps with white rings should be reproduced.

#3595 43 days ago
Quoted from midcoastsurf:

The white caps with white rings should be reproduced.

Really does seem like a missed opportunity for there to not be officially licenced repro white caps. They look so much better than the amber imo

10
#3596 42 days ago

I'll take the amber. You guys can have the white.

#3597 42 days ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

I'll take the amber. You guys can have the white.

All yours, bucko!

#3598 42 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Really does seem like a missed opportunity for there to not be officially licenced repro white caps. They look so much better than the amber imo

You wouldn't have to license the white caps though. Only the artwork is copyrighted. You can mold the plastic out of any color you want.

One of the reason they don't do the white is the demand is low. More people prefer the amber. When I run my injection-molded parts I make thousands not one or two.

It's just like when guys ask me if I can make my plastic backglass edge trim white like early Stern machines used instead of the more-common black like Bally used. The answer is "sure I can" but I have to make a minimum amount to make it economically feasible. The minimum amount exceeds any possible amount I could ever hope to sell so I won't be doing it anytime soon. But if you were to commit to a pallet of them I would probably do it.

#3599 42 days ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

I'll take the amber. You guys can have the white.

Agreed....

#3600 42 days ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

You wouldn't have to license the white caps though. Only the artwork is copyrighted. You can mold the plastic out of any color you want.
One of the reason they don't do the white is the demand is low. More people prefer the amber. When I run my injection-molded parts I make thousands not one or two.
It's just like when guys ask me if I can make my plastic backglass edge trim white like early Stern machines used instead of the more-common black like Bally used. The answer is "sure I can" but I have to make a minimum amount to make it economically feasible. The minimum amount exceeds any possible amount I could ever hope to sell so I won't be doing it anytime soon. But if you were to commit to a pallet of them I would probably do it.

Makes a lot of sense. Are you currently selling any parts that you make? Always looking to expand my product portfolio on my site

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