Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

and Flash Gordon.

Interesting...I think mine is upside down too then. will check when I get home. I just hope if I go to switch them around it doesn't screw anything else up...with my luck something will be stripped, or will crack, or fall inside, or blow up...etcetc...

So does Flash Gordon.

I made polycarbonate transparent plastics, they will never break !
No ''bump'' on the flippers, lot better playability and ballflow
A better gameplay for an already very fun machine.

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Indeed it does, not even a plastic piece there or any room for one.

Read this guide and watch the video, it was made to help new restorers.

http://www.classicplayfields.com/f2khelp.html

I have posted these pics on here before but will do it again for those who haven't seen them.

I've developed a very easy technique to remove the metal posts and then re-form them to be re-used with the replacement plastics.

All you need is a lighter and something round that you can fit inside the metal post to pry it out of the plastic. Then you will need a wire stripper/crimper to re-form the top of the post.

I take the lighter and just wave it a few times underneath the metal post. About three seconds will do it. It comes out real easy. You don't want to overheat it or the plastics will be all gooey. You can still remove the post it's just messier to clean up if you overheat it. You'll get the hang of heating the post. Same goes if you use a soldering iron which works too. I've just found the lighter technique to be a little faster and easier.

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Very helpful crash, what size drill bit was that?

I forget. It's like a 3/8" or about that size. Size isn't super-critical as long as it fits inside the post and can be used to pry it off. Once the post is heated with the lighter it can be pried right out of the plastic piece very easily. Like butter.

A piece of dowel rod or anything similar will also do the job. I just happened to have a drill bit handy.

Hi everyone I am doing a playfield swap on my EBD and I have some questions.

1. What size tee nuts are used?

2. The playfield is from CPR and there is an extra hole under each of the sling shots. It lines up with one of the holes to secure the slingshots under the playfield, but this is not there on my old playfield. Does anyone know what goes there?

3. What is the best way to remove the wood rails? They are stapled on.

Thanks for your help.

Karen

1. What size tee nuts are used?

Probably a #10 thread. You could pop one out of your old playfield and match it up at the hardware store.

2. The playfield is from CPR and there is an extra hole under each of the sling shots. It lines up with one of the holes to secure the slingshots under the playfield, but this is not there on my old playfield. Does anyone know what goes there?

Do you have a pic?

3. What is the best way to remove the wood rails? They are stapled on.

Once you take the screws out, slide a stiff putty knife between the rail and the playfield and pry it off. To remove the old staples, tap them out with a hammer from the top and then pull them out.

Hey guys,

Just thought I would post in here as well. Anybody have any extra plastics sets they might be willing to part with? Just finished my playfield swap on the bottom side but I don't want to mar this beauty with the crappy plastics I currently have.

-Jordan

http://bayareaamusements.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Store_Code=BAA&Screen=PROD&Product_Code=GS-EBD99

The hole right next to the sling shot hole is not there on my original playfield.

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Just replaced cracked plastic lane guides with metal replacements. They look fine and don't really change the lighting that much (bulbs positioned beneath the plastics did trans-illuminate somewhat) but I'm finding that they change play. Didn't see this coming... Specifically, balls entering the lane from either direction move quite briskly along the metal rail. The plastic must give a bit and de-accelerate the ball. All that said, I'd like to switch back to plastic. Is anyone offering a poly replacement?

Hunting for a few odd pieces 1980 EBD cabinet head parts. Metal Plate inside head. Head lock goes through outside of head and through this plate inside with the bolt on the lock shaft tightened against. Also lock is grounded with this plate.
Inside head metal brackets lamp and sound card mount to that are not stripped.
Any info appreciated.
Thank You
Andy

Anyone know if anybody has the entire 12-piece drop target for sale, outside of Marco? BS they charge 16.00 more than BAA.

I'm going to be likely purchasing the entire drop target set as well. What is BAA?

Bay Area Amusements. They've been out of stock for a long time. Marco shows them, but there much higher priced.

Ahh.. gotcha. I'd wager that being out of stock for a while means that was the old going rate, and if they got them back in stock it'd be similar to Marco's price. Does Planetary Pinball own the rights to Bally stuff as well as Williams? Maybe these are the last of a first run.

Buy your drop targets at Pinball Resource. If you don't have an account, open one. Steve is a great resource for Classic Bally games!

Rob Bell
Robsgameroom.com

Action has them for a little less. They also sell the decals.
http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=A-3944-EBD

Thanks Rob. Never bought from them before. Checked out the site last week. Little different web page to navigate through. You typically just email him with what your looking for or ?

Yep. Email is the best way to order from them. It's true they don't have great web based buying, but if you can get past that, they have great service, products and prices.

Pinball Resource is good people!

Good luck!

Thank you.........

Got a question. I have a 1981 Ebd. I bought a overlay from classic arcades. The problem is the 15 ball has a brown stripe. Did the 1984 or the le have a brown stripe on the 15 ball. I just don't want to tear down playfield to find this overlay won't fit. Thx for info.

Thanks again. Got 'em ordered and on the way.

All the playfields were the same. The 15 ball is supposed to have a red stripe on it (just like a real billiards 15 ball does).

This method works great Crash. Took a bit longer with the lighter in my case, but they came out with ease. Must say, crimping the top of the post is somewhat of a pain, but once you get it down, it's relatively simple, and effective. Have the upper right plastics all done, just upper left side left to go. Maybe i'll post some pics when done.

You get good at crimping the top of the posts after doing a few. You just work your way around the diameter of the post until you get it looking good. When you install the posts in the new plastics you can re-crimp the tops of the posts or leave them as-is. I never re-crimp them though. When you tighten the screws you re-crimp them to some extent.

All factory EBD playfields are the same, including the 1984 version.
All 15 balls have a red stripe, however the reason it should look darker it is "dither patterned" with black dots.
The 11 ball is solid stripe red, the 15 ball pattern shaded stripe red.
It most definitely is not brown, or even reddish brown.

If the overlay has a 15 ball brown stripe, it was printed incorrectly, because it is not an ink screen process, it was digitally printed and the color and image changed to make the process simpler and cheaper.

I cannot speak for every single reproduction playfield that has been made since the 1990s including IPB and CPR, only the originals.
Reproduction playfields started out WAY back in the 1990s with limited runs.
I do not recall when people started making overlays for this game, as there were several manufacturers.

Classic Arcades is known for color and quality inaccuracies on their products, many "purists" will not buy his products and use other sources, or have the parts made themselves.

Attached is a photo extract from my 33 year old EBD "Classic" 1984 playfield.
This one was D1M.
The dot "dither pattern" on the 15 ball does not easily show up in any photo, because the dots are small to trick the naked eye into seeing a darker color and the lighting that is used to take a photo.

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Yep, the crimping got easier the more I did. Don't plan on re-crimping them once installed. Just wish they're weren't SO many posts to do on EBD. Took long enough to do the one side. Worth it though, it's gonna look so much nicer......

Yes, Steve Young is undeniably a critical resource for parts (which makes me wonder what will happen when he is gone to be able to get all those EM parts), but here is a word of advice for new enthusiasts that have not used him or have an established account:

Don't "shuck and jive" him and absolutely positively do not waste his time.
Be direct with your order, know what you want to buy (know the part#), and pay promptly.
Anything less will just piss him off, and liable to get you blacklisted or ignored.

Granted, he will probably allow one mistake, but never two.

I wonder if any of you longtime Pinball Resource buyers have ever compiled a list of common parts and part numbers for EBD and games of that era. It would be cool of there was some sort of list that everyone could update as parts are ordered.

I like to stock up on parts even before I need them, but in this case it's harder to do.

Another question- are there repro aprons available? (not just the decals)

Detailed parts catalogs are on the PPS website. Game specific as well as common parts.

OK, thanks. I was thinking the EBD manual did not have as many parts details as I had become used to.

Thx guys for reply on 15 ball color. I thought it was wrong but my playfield is shot so it will still be a big improvement as long as it fits. I hope to find playfield someday.

Part of the upcoming Episode 3 - Eight Ball Deluxe "Classic" (Bally, 1984), History-Features-Gameplay Tutorial Review on Youtube.

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Got a question or 2 on installing drop targets. This is my 2nd EBD, and the 2nd time I've installed all 12 drops. Don't remember very well on my 1st one doing them, it's been years. But right now I have the horseshoe targets and 8 ball targets out, hardware cleaned and changed over ready to go. Question 1, why are some of the targets SO dam hard to get out? The horseshoes on both ends were a pain, and the 8 ball target I had to break to get it out. No biggie as I have a new one. Also, the new 8 ball target will not fit through that opening. NO Way am I'm attaching from the topside on all these targets, then putting everything together. Haven't attempted to put the horseshoes back yet. I know the previous time the shoes were a little pesky, but not too bad. And, is it easier to detach that black bar where the springs attach for the horseshoe targets and hook up all the targets, then reinstall the bar and hope they all clear the opening to the PF, or just attach them 1 by 1 while the bar is still bolted on (probably harder, but) Just looking for some tips or tricks. Done it before, i'll do it again, just trying to make it easier... thanks

I think I had to loosen the screws that attach the mech a bit to give the drops a little wiggle room when inserting up through the playfield.

Most full restorations, the complete assemblies are dropped out of the playfield and a new set of MOLEX plugs is added.
It is whole lot easier to work on the assemblies on your bench, upside down, in better light, and parts not falling into the cabinet.
Even if you are a "purist".
It also lets you clean the ENTIRE assemblies properly, and let you test the functionality manually with the targets on their side.

Appreciate the tip. Check into it when I get back to it..

Thanks X. I know your right, the proper way is to fully remove everything etc. Makes it a lot easier I assume. Tons more time also which I don't have. I have such limited space too. Not into de soldering and soldering unless need be either. I did it this way before, so i'll make it work again. Appreciate the help. Was gonna also add, I basically tore apart the whole coil assembly when replacing the 8 ball target to make it fit easier. Didn't take one picture because I though it would go in easily without taking it all apart. It's back together, but not 100% sure if it's correct? And, is the washer on the coil stop supposed to be on the spring side or the coil side? I have it on the coil side. Feel like a moron not knowing for sure, been putzing with these things for years.

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Coil side is correct, to remove the play and keep the coil from slamming around.

So I'm fine with it set this way? Thought so. Thanks

Are those of you who have bought the repro plastic set happy with the quality? I'm trying to decide on this one.

For those of you who are using standard star posts are you using washers or anything to match the height of the taller ribbed posts?

The quality is excellent, the fit and finish are a little off. I had to drill a hole here and there and do some shaving on the lower lane guide clear ones. But I would buy them again tomorrow. They look fantastic.

Good morning,
Going through EBD. Would anyone have a source for or perhaps have a used "button spacer S-2056" This is the spacer on"push button assembly A-1729-17". Spacer inside the coin door on the Start button shaft.
Thank You
Andy
Added over 3 years ago: For the EBD coin door start button spacer. Could someone provide height measurement? Could try to make something.
Thank You

Added over 3 years ago: Height of button spacer S-2056 is 3/8"

I have for sale a new IPB playfield for EBD.
More details in the ad below.

Thanks for looking!
Robert

Archived after 6 days

263 views

Sold (amount undisclosed)

Contributed to Pinside

Parts - For Sale

FS: Bally EIGHT BALL DELUXE New IPB Playfield Archived

New “I have for sale a new reproduction playfield for Bally EIGHT BALL DELUXE. This playfield was made by IPB (Illinois Pinball) many years ago. The surface does not have any clearcoat ...”

2017-01-13

Ogden, UT

1,100

bigdaddy1

I'm going to be listing a EBD 81 version in the marketplace. It works, no broken plastics, nice glass, battery pack off the mpu. All displays work, but needs a playfield. I have not yet decided on a price to list yet.