Quoted from DigitalJB:
Hello 8BD world! I am brand new here and the proud new owner of an 8BD. Picked it up over the summer and it actually plays pretty well for being close to 40 years old. The game would cut out after about 8 games and just die while in mid game. Found some time to work on it and decided to start changing out the boards. Started with MPU, Solenoid, and Light Board. Ordered from Marco (but really All Tek) and it did not fix the problem. Still happy to change out the boards as they were terrible looking. Not afraid to put some money into this game. After a little more digging and some help (over the phone) from Dave at All Tek (really cool guy) the power board inside was FUBAR. Just put the board in today and now "All Systems Go". Next step is to switch over to LED lights which I have in hand now.
Question 1: Do other 8BD owners like the switch over to LED'S?
Question 2: What has been the life of the newer boards so far? Any major Issues?
Question 3: Since I am not sure if the boards were original that came with it do they hold any value? Should I have them redone for originality reasons
Question 4:Does anyone have a copy of the original owners manual I could purchase, get a copy of somehow?
Would love to be able to set the dip switches 1-32 in the right order. A pic of the right order would be awesome
[quoted image][quoted image]
If you are going to switch to LED bulbs, keep in mind that this era of Bally games has #555 lamp sockets. I have restored 3 EBD games and from my experience, the plastic bases on the LED lamps are not very compatible or user friendly with the LED lamp base. It takes a lot of effort to seat them in the sockets and sometimes the connections are flaky. If your game has the lamp board pcb's under the playfield, then it won't be as difficult. Also when switching to LED's you will see the lamps flicker or strobe. The reason for this is that the LED lamp doesn't draw enough current as the original 555 lamp and this causes switching issues on the lamp driver board, mostly all Bally and Sterns from late 70's to early 80's will do this. Luckily there solutions for this. The easiest is changing the original lamp driver and aux lamp driver to Alltek. They have a built in fix for this by running a jumper wire to the switched lamp bus wire.
Also make sure you get the correct manual for your game. Although very similar, there are slight differences in wiring and colors of the wires between the 81 version and the LE. Not sure about the Bally-Midway version though.
One way to tell if a board is original to the game is to match serial numbers from boards to the cabinet. This isn't always 100% because arcades back in the day may have had more than one particular game and sometimes the heads would get mixed up.