Yes one outlane switch does not work...the right side outter most outlane. But, the inner most switch works...
Hmmm... I will check that wire...
Thanks...
Yes one outlane switch does not work...the right side outter most outlane. But, the inner most switch works...
Hmmm... I will check that wire...
Thanks...
Quoted from wamonkey:Ok - working two restores at the same time probably not the best idea but on Eight Ball Deluxe I have fixed some things so far, more to go... (other restore is Flash Gordon) I jump back and forth when I am waiting for parts. But, I could use some help...
On the big drop target and stand up assembly, all the drop targets register, score, make the right sounds. But, the stand up targets behind the drop targets never score or register.
I have new Alltek boards, already re-pinned J2 on the MPU. Not visible broken wires...I can look more but nothing was obvious.
I assume I can take the whole assembly out and replace all the diodes and capacitors on all the yellow stand up targets...
Does that seem like the next logical step? It’s not hard and that is cheap but I don’t want to waste time.
Again all the 1-8 drop targets register right it is all the yellow stand up targets that don’t work.
Could use advice to not waste time and just stab at things.
Any chance someone can take a picture of the back of the switch assembly...I think the post switches had a wire off and I just want to make sure I solder it right.
I am looking for the first stand up target switch how it is wired.
Quoted from wamonkey:Any chance someone can take a picture of the back of the switch assembly...I think the post switches had a wire off and I just want to make sure I solder it right.
Post some clear pictures of yours so we can tell you if it looks right.
Quoted from Quench:Post some clear pictures of yours so we can tell you if it looks right.
There is a wire off this must be it...but which lug to solder it too?
image (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgimage (resized).jpgSee the lug with the hole in it that connects to the first switch and also has a wire that runs to all the other switches on the non-banded side of the diode?
There.
Quoted from wamonkey:There is a wire off this must be it...but which lug to solder it too?
BTW, it looks like some of the capacitors (green ceramic discs) across those DELUXE switches have been cut. Suggest you replace them with new 0.047uF caps, otherwise fast hits on those targets will frustratingly not register sometimes. Those green ceramic caps often go faulty.
Quoted from Quench:BTW, it looks like some of the capacitors (green ceramic discs) across those DELUXE switches have been cut. Suggest you replace them with new 0.047uF caps, otherwise fast hits on those targets will frustratingly not register sometimes. Those green ceramic caps often go faulty.
[quoted image]
Ok - thanks should easy enough
Quoted from Quench:BTW, it looks like some of the capacitors (green ceramic discs) across those DELUXE switches have been cut. Suggest you replace them with new 0.047uF caps, otherwise fast hits on those targets will frustratingly not register sometimes. Those green ceramic caps often go faulty.
[quoted image]
That was it...works now 100%. Thanks so much.
This for me is the best path, I have restored numerous machines but most times I restore a non-working machine and struggle after the restore to fix a multitude of errors. This time with The help from the forum I got a 100% working machine to cosmetically restore.
Thanks - Quench
When I restore the machine I plan to create a forum topic....trust me what I got planned will be cool.
Quoted from wamonkey:That was it...works now 100%. Thanks so much.
This for me is the best path, I have restored numerous machines but most times I restore a non-working machine and struggle after the restore to fix a multitude of errors. This time with The help from the forum I got a 100% working machine to cosmetically restore.
Thanks - Quench
When I restore the machine I plan to create a forum topic....trust me what I got planned will be cool.
Looking at your pictures, it looks pretty clean under your playfield for a non-restored machine! A lot of things (like the switch stacks) look new!
Don't forget to post a link to your thread here, for us not to miss it!
I’ve watched some videos and now am thinking of repinning the connectors on my 1981 EBD. Does anyone sell a package of the connectors and pins I would need? What connector would be the easiest one to start on?
Quoted from BorisSWort:I’ve watched some videos and now am thinking of repinning the connectors on my 1981 EBD. Does anyone sell a package of the connectors and pins I would need? What connector would be the easiest one to start on?
I'm pretty sure BigDaddyEnterprises has a kit. I'll see if I can dig up a link.
In the interim, here's the site..maybe you can find it before I do:
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:I'm pretty sure BigDaddyEnterprises has a kit. I'll see if I can dig up a link.
In the interim, here's the site..maybe you can find it before I do:
https://www.bigdaddy-enterprises.com/
I’m going to have to do more research on this first. I went to Big Daddy’s site and I don’t even know what .100 means. I assume that is a wire size, but am I dealing with all one size on an EBD?
Quoted from BorisSWort:I’m going to have to do more research on this first. I went to Big Daddy’s site and I don’t even know what .100 means. I assume that is a wire size, but am I dealing with all one size on an EBD?
That's the connector size. The larger connectors are .156, the smaller ones are .100 on the boards in the head.
Quoted from BorisSWort:I don’t even know what .100 means.
It refers to the spacing between the pins on the connector. The pins are 0.100" apart.
Which connectors are you re-terminating?
Quoted from Quench:It refers to the spacing between the pins on the connector. The pins are 0.100" apart.
Which connectors are you re-terminating?
I was going to do them all. They all work now, but I believe they are all original so I figure I should do them all.
Quoted from BorisSWort:I was going to do them all. They all work now, but I believe they are all original so I figure I should do them all.
The game uses a mixture of 0.100" and 0.156" connectors.
Does/did the factory MPU board have battery corrosion? Does the game have hacked up connectors?
Quoted from Quench:The game uses a mixture of 0.100" and 0.156" connectors.
Does/did the factory MPU board have battery corrosion? Does the game have hacked up connectors?
I replaced the battery with one of those chips. No hacked up connectors that I can see.
Anyone, replace the fluorescent bulb in the EBD LE with LED strips? The original fluorescent bulb can hum, rather than replace the starter/ballast I thought I would ask. Seems like it wouldn’t be hard...about to start my EBD LE restore so just thinking stuff through.
I know this post would be more standard cabs but the LE is unique and excited to start my restore.
I think LED’s (LED strips) in the small backbox head of the LE would be bright and work well.
I hate to reinvent the wheel if I don’t have to...
Appreciate anyone’s insights...
Quoted from wamonkey:Anyone, replace the fluorescent bulb in the EBD LE with LED strips? The original fluorescent bulb can hum, rather than replace the starter/ballast I thought I would ask. Seems like it wouldn’t be hard...about to start my EBD LE restore so just thinking stuff through.
I know this post would be more standard cabs but the LE is unique and excited to start my restore.
I think LED’s (LED strips) in the small backbox head of the LE would be bright and work well.
I hate to reinvent the wheel if I don’t have to...
Appreciate anyone’s insights...
you'd be better off finding a diffused tube than a strip. Things designed to have a LED behind them usually (or should) have their white screen on the back of the translite or backgalss or whatever to spread the pointed light that the LED's produce.
Quoted from slicknick13:you'd be better off finding a diffused tube than a strip. Things designed to have a LED behind them usually (or should) have their white screen on the back of the translite or backgalss or whatever to spread the pointed light that the LED's produce.
I saw there was some talk about people who removed the ballast and changed it to a LED light tube in place. I have to see if I can find those posts again....
Quoted from wamonkey:I saw there was some talk about people who removed the ballast and changed it to a LED light tube in place. I have to see if I can find those posts again....
Report back what you find. I would be interested in converting mine to LEDs also. I thought maybe these strips would work somehow.
https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07T2PVDFY/ref=twister_B08K32VBFS
5V strip that could be tapped off of the GI line?
Looking to FINALLY rebuild my flippers. At least the lowers, not the upper. Where is the best place to get rebuild kits? PBL, PBR, Marco or? And, any tips or do's and don't's? 1st time rebuilding flippers so....
Quoted from Bohdi:Looking to FINALLY rebuild my flippers. At least the lowers, not the upper. Where is the best place to get rebuild kits? PBL, PBR, Marco or? And, any tips or do's and don't's? 1st time rebuilding flippers so....
Take this with a grain of salt, but here's my input:
I like the kit from PBR the best. But their flipper bushing are 1/16" too short, and causes the flipper to *almost* drag on the pf. With a little bit of bushing wear, it would be touching the pf--not good! So I use the bushings from Pinball Life. This issue has been on multiple kits from PBR.
I've not had good luck with the full kit from Pinball Life. There always seems to be some odd sort of binding occurring. I've narrowed it down to the coil stops, but just can't figure out what's different about them.
I haven't used a kit from Marco in while, but the last one I bought worked fine, IIRC.
Quoted from Bohdi:Looking to FINALLY rebuild my flippers. At least the lowers, not the upper. Where is the best place to get rebuild kits? PBL, PBR, Marco or? And, any tips or do's and don't's? 1st time rebuilding flippers so....
7yrs on Pinsde and the first time rebuilding flippers?! You're 6.5 years overdue
Quoted from djblouw:Take this with a grain of salt, but here's my input:
I like the kit from PBR the best. But their flipper bushing are 1/16" too short, and causes the flipper to *almost* drag on the pf. With a little bit of bushing wear, it would be touching the pf--not good! So I use the bushings from Pinball Life. This issue has been on multiple kits from PBR.
I've not had good luck with the full kit from Pinball Life. There always seems to be some odd sort of binding occurring. I've narrowed it down to the coil stops, but just can't figure out what's different about them.
I haven't used a kit from Marco in while, but the last one I bought worked fine, IIRC.
Thanks! I usually use PBL and PBR. Haven't used Marco in awhile so maybe i'll try there kits. I may shop around around too, unsure. Just want a "complete" kit.
Quoted from FatPanda:7yrs on Pinsde and the first time rebuilding flippers?! You're 6.5 years overdue
Yeah, pretty sad isn't it. Well, I don't normally keep pins a long time for starters. And i've had great luck with what i have and had. Just that i had my 2nd EBD now for roughly 5 years and it's time. Plus one flipper just has been bugging me for over 2 years. Like it has a mind of it's own sometimes.
Quoted from Bohdi:Yeah, pretty sad isn't it. Well, I don't normally keep pins a long time for starters. And i've had great luck with what i have and had. Just that i had my 2nd EBD now for roughly 5 years and it's time. Plus one flipper just has been bugging me for over 2 years. Like it has a mind of it's own sometimes.
It's not hard. I've had good results from Pinball Life as well as Pinball Resource. Quality parts IMO from either place. Make sure you get a flipper gauge or cut one out of an old credit card for spacing the flipper bat to the bushing:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0162-00
Quoted from FatPanda:It's not hard. I've had good results from Pinball Life as well as Pinball Resource. Quality parts IMO from either place. Make sure you get a flipper gauge or cut one out of an old credit card for spacing the flipper bat to the bushing:
https://www.pinballlife.com/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=PBL-300-0162-00
Thanks Quy for the link. Guessing when the time comes, i'll just use a credit card or something similar. Sure it will be awhile, like dead of winter when there is NOTHING to do..
For a while there Marco's was including a flipper gauge in their rebuild kits but the last one I got a few months ago didn't have it. Glad I still had one laying around from a previous order.
Quoted from Mathazar:For a while there Marco's was including a flipper gauge in their rebuild kits but the last one I got a few months ago didn't have it. Glad I still had one laying around from a previous order.
In a pinch, you can use an old gift card/credit card, etc. It's a similar thickness so should work without any issues.
Quoted from Bohdi:Thanks Quy for the link. Guessing when the time comes, i'll just use a credit card or something similar. Sure it will be awhile, like dead of winter when there is NOTHING to do..
No problem Scott! Feel free to post up any questions you have while doing it. Just me, but I would do all 3 flippers. It completely changes how the game plays.
I'm getting ready to mount the bigger up-field plastics and am finding that some of the screw holes are well aligned and a couple aren't (natch). On the Corner Pocket plastic all but the hole closest to the lower mini-post are good but that hole is off by 2-2.5mm (the white circle is where an aligned hole would go). These plastics are rigid so I'm thinking that any mis-alignment IS critical and I can't really fudge the holes much as they hold the metal 'bell' mounts. Am I over-sweating this? It would easy enough to drill a new hole for that screw but I have no experience drilling that close to a 'factory' thru-hole. Drill the new hole? Fill the old one first? Don't sweat this and grab a cold one? What say guys??
Tnx, sounds like the way to go. It's my first swap and it's actually going well. Don't wanna screw up now!
Do any of you also have a Stern Nine Ball? Does you find that one has more appeal to guests or pinball enthusiasts?
Quoted from EEE:Do any of you also have a Stern Nine Ball? Does you find that one has more appeal to guests or pinball enthusiasts?
I had a Nineball for a year or so. Totally different than EBD. NB has multi-ball and is very hard to achieve. EBD no. NB has a spinner, EBD no. NB has only 1 pop bumper, EBD 3. NB 2 flippers, EBD 3.
I wish I had kept my NB as it would have been cool to have it next to EBD in my line up.
Preference wise I like them both about the same because they are very different.
Quoted from phillyfan64:I’ve run into an alignment issue with the upper plastics. What do I do with this? Enlarge the holes? These appear to be repros but they’re older. I don’t know who made them.
[quoted image][quoted image]
Hopefully the repro ones I'm doing right now arent too far off from the original alignment holes, but I'm following anyway. Any chance you chould take a photo of all of your plastics with bells phillyfan64 ?
I removed all the bells and didnt take good note of where the big/small bells went.
Thanks.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Hopefully the repro ones I'm doing right now arent too far off from the original alignment holes, but I'm following anyway. Any chance you chould take a photo of all of your plastics with bells phillyfan64 ?
I removed all the bells and didnt take good note of where the big/small bells went.
Thanks.
The small bell stands only go on the 2 large upper right and upper left plastics.
Before installing bell stands, verify alignment of upper plastics holes versus lower plastic by stacking. Pay particular attention to the far right clear plastic and the clear plastic to the left of the inline drop targets. They're the ones that I see off mostly.
If you do need to make any adjustments on holes, make sure to only do this on the clear plastic. You may need to enlarge a hole slightly or egg one out a little to make the 2 holes match. The bell stand will hide it if the hole is off and the upper bell will cover the top of it. FWIW any holes will only be off about a 32nd of an inch or so.
Ultimately you want the upper and lower bell stands to line up so that your screws go straight down and not on an angle. If this is a new pf it will be easy just to predrill a new hole for screw if it doesn't line up with the predrilled dimple.
If you're working on a used pf, you want to verify the upper plastic mounting holes match your pf first. If off just a little, say 1/ 16 inch you should be ok. Any more than that then you will end up flexing the plastics and will look warped after install and also add tension to the plastics causing cracks later on.
I wound up doing exactly what Rich said. I enlarged a hole in the lower clear plastic. I did this on each side. It made everything line up a lot better instead of trying to force it. You still need to really take your time when putting this back together. It’s easy to wind up with double holes. You should see my old playfield. Lots of toothpicks. I really wish Bally had used machine screws here but there’s a lot of obstacles underneath so I guess it wasn’t practical.
Quoted from Lovef2k:The small bell stands only go on the 2 large upper right and upper left plastics.
Before installing bell stands, verify alignment of upper plastics holes versus lower plastic by stacking. Pay particular attention to the far right clear plastic and the clear plastic to the left of the inline drop targets. They're the ones that I see off mostly.
If you do need to make any adjustments on holes, make sure to only do this on the clear plastic. You may need to enlarge a hole slightly or egg one out a little to make the 2 holes match. The bell stand will hide it if the hole is off and the upper bell will cover the top of it. FWIW any holes will only be off about a 32nd of an inch or so.
Ultimately you want the upper and lower bell stands to line up so that your screws go straight down and not on an angle. If this is a new pf it will be easy just to predrill a new hole for screw if it doesn't line up with the predrilled dimple.
If you're working on a used pf, you want to verify the upper plastic mounting holes match your pf first. If off just a little, say 1/ 16 inch you should be ok. Any more than that then you will end up flexing the plastics and will look warped after install and also add tension to the plastics causing cracks later on.
Thanks guys. I'm assuming the Soldering Iron technique is still the best method of reinserting the bells onto the new plastics?
Ive just finished running the bells through the tumbler so they're shiny and new. Check out the White Pops my wife is helping me make! Totally beats the orange IMO.
received_400052831132968 (resized).jpegQuoted from FLASHBALL:Thanks guys. I'm assuming the Soldering Iron technique is still the best method of reinserting the bells onto the new plastics?
Quoted from FLASHBALL:Thanks guys. I'm assuming the Soldering Iron technique is still the best method of reinserting the bells onto the new plastics?
Ive just finished running the bells through the tumbler so they're shiny and new. Check out the White Pops my wife is helping me make! Totally beats the orange IMO.[quoted image]
Wow those look awesome! Can’t wait to see the caps on there. I wish I could find the white caps.
I can’t speak to the soldering iron technique. Mine pretty much fell out.
Quoted from FLASHBALL:NICE! Didnt realize Vid had a guide! Thx!
Yeah I have used the soldering iron a few times with success. But the last go around I ruined some plastics, so not totally recommended lol.
Anyone have advice as towards where the tall and short star posts go? I'm weeding my way through pictures slowly figuring out some.
Glad I ordered new. I dont even know if an ultrasonic cleaner could've saved the old ones.
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