Perfect.. Thank you for taking the time to do this. I have a brand new coil and a brand new Driver and this is the only coil that will not fire. It's not the switch.

Is there continuity from the coil wires to the board plug?
diode on the coil?

Better. Extended and shrink wrapped further back in the harness. I’ll see how it holds up before I mess with the other flippers.

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Wire break somewhere?

Got it.. Can you believe it. The brand new coil i installed was bad. LOL I always buy two of everything just in case. Now i need to replace one more coil and the drop targets and get the sound board working. All the caps have been replaced on the sound board so not sure whats up w/ that..

Crazy! I’ve had a few coils with a wire broke inside. But not many. Glad you found it!

Has anyone used the plastic spacers instead of the metal posts to hold the plastics and in lanes up? Not sure I want to spend the time swapping them when it’s going on route. So was thinking of just saving them until it gets the pf swap and use the black plastic stand offs

these
https://www.pinballlife.com/plastic-spacers.html

Otherwise what is the recommended replacement if you do not have the original metal ones?

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Those should work. Anything that won't crush down when you tighten the screws should be fine I would think. They may become loose after a while. I saw something like these on a cyclone and that was fine.

The larger bell metal posts are 1/2" wide, so maybe i'll use a washer under the black plastic post.... Hmm I'll try it and see how it goes. if I have to melt some plastic, then that can be later. I see marco has the bell posts listed but all out of stock/discontinued so maybe they could be remade again.

Contact NicoVolta , he has/had both new and re-used bell posts. I bought a complete set from him about a year ago.

Check in with @NicoVolta. He sells replacement metal spacers.

I guess I should’ve read all the way through before providing the same answer! LOL

Thanks! I shot nicovolta a message.

Need one of these?

SOLD!

Parts - For Sale

FS: Eight Ball Deluxe key fob Archived

New (selling multiple, business) - “Selling an Eight Ball Deluxe new CPR key fob. Protective film on both sides. $5.00 plus shipping.”

2022-07-01

Jarrettsville, MD

Alan_L

5 (Firm)

Archived after: 18 days

Viewed: 164 times

Status: Sold (amount private)

My '84 EBD has a 3-fuse board on the bottom of the playfield just to the right of the right flipper mechanism.

The fuse closest to the bottom edge of the playfield is a 10 amp SB, the middle (blown) was a 10 amp FB and the other is a 1 1/2 amp SB.

The manual only shows one 1 amp SB under the playfield. Any idea as to what these others two fuses are supposed to be? Thanks.

Judging by the pic in post 4491 I think the middle fuse is flippers and the one with the blue wire is feature lamps. You can verify this with a continuity test.

What isn't working since you have a blown fuse?

Playfield coil and two groups of playfield feature lamps.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/90#post-6813762
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/90#post-6816143

Fuse F6 on P/S board (backbox 6.5VAC) blows on power up. Does not blow when connectors J3 and J4 on P/S are removed.

Solenoid Expander board does not work, has good 555 bulb in it.

All playfield lamps driven by Lamp Driver board work great. All lamps driven by Auxiliary Lamp Driver board are very dim. Have only 1.2 VDC on Feature lamp buss (bare daisy-chain wire), for ALD board.

I have a feeling that this is all caused by one short somewhere.

Thanks for any assistance.

F6 (15A) is for backbox GI, not switched(feature) lamps. So actually you have two problems. First is a short in the backbox GI. Second, dim switched lamps only from lamps coming from AUX lamp driver. Possibly a connector issue, power not getting to the board or a break in the bus wire somewhere. Poor ground at AUX board. If the lamps from the main driver are working, then you have good power from the P/S board.

Possible 3rd problem, no SEB operation. Confirm connector is on correctly. Check header pins for cold solder joints which a common issue. Confirm 43VDC at pin 9 on connector. The SEB relay should click in unison with the switched lamps in test mode. If not, possible relay failure. If the cover is MIA from the relay it's possible that corrosion and/or oxidation has affected the relay.

Ok so I added a tnut to the left stand up mini post and now found the right stand up (above the drop bank) is also a similar situation. Do you guys tnut that as well?
Circled in red

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Makes it too weak on the edge usually. I did mine with washer and nylon locknut.

Replaced blown under pf fuse, re-pinned SEB connector, reflowed SEB header pins, SEB now works.

Feature lamps driven by ALD board were still blinking dim and bright in attract mode, not off and on like they should be. With LEDs I installed Siegecraft LED adapters. Teir purple wires must be attached to the feature lamp buss. I had them both soldered together at the same spot. Turns out I was wrong. I separated the purple wires from the LD board and the ALD board adapters, and soldered them to separate spots on the same feature buss. Now all ALD board lamps blink on and off as they should.

However, P/S board backbox fuse F6 is still blowing after 7th flash after powerup. No backbox GI lights or displays.

Will keep looking, but The Masters comes first.

Nice work. Strange that F6 is taking time to blow. The GI lights come on as soon as the power switch is thrown. Are you using a slow blow fuse or fast? It should be a fast in there. You may have to pull all the bulbs and isolate the short. If there are LED's in the back box GI, one could have shorted enough to cause an excessive current draw. One time I had a new LED's bulb that had a solder blob on the bottom tip that shorted and fried an SCR on a new Alltek driver, so you never know! After pulling bulbs, see if there is direct continuity between both sides of the supply wires. Hopefully you don't since that would be a bitch to find the short.

Hard part is these are under the drop target sheet metal. Looks like on the left side, someone cut a hole in the drop bracket to put a nut.

I was thinking tnut and a washer with the post on the top side…I’ve not played ebd so I’m not sure how hard these get hit/used :/

The post by the 2X target gets hit VERY hard (constantly). The one by the 8-ball not as much. At least that has been my experience.

Well just checked and I did use a tnut but I think I moved the location back slightly vs my original playfield to enable that.

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Hello all. Anybody know the dipswitch setting to award the xtra ball on the rollover. It lights up but but does not ward xtra ball. I checked and boar is setup for EBD. Also shoot again does night light up. Thanks

coin door ram adjustment, not dip switches.
check adjustments #16 & #17
00 trough 03 adjustment values.

Thanks. That did it.

Have many of you put in a EBD hardtop from outside edge products? What are your thoughts & was it a huge project?

oh snaps!!!! I forgot they made a hard top. My pf is pretty blown, maybe i'll do this!

I've installed two EBD hardtops (and one each Mata Hari and Black Knight) - I love them. A third of the cost of a CPR or Micro playfield and not nearly as invasive - (top side tear down only vs. totally removing and relocating everything from one playfield to another). As far as it being a huge project, that's really up to you and how far you want to go. Some folks just remove enough topside to lay down the hardtop (after prepping the playfield inserts by stripping them of any art and shining them up) while others use the opportunity to clean and/or replace every single topside piece before reinstalling. Still others will sand all artwork off the original playfield AND lay down clearcoat (which means removing everything, including the underside) before putting on the hardtop. Overkill IMO.

If you go with quicker method of just removing the topside stuff and prepping the inserts, you could do it in a weekend. If you go the full teardown/sand everything/clearcoat/install hardtop method, it's a couple of months (with at least a month of waiting for the clearcoat to outgas before putting on the hardtop).

The great thing here is that it's up to the individual as there is no real wrong answer here.

So I found a few plugs with what I thought was corrosion but it kinda just seems like some liquid for keeping contact for pins? Has anyone seen this before? My friends flash has similar green stuff on plugs and it was from the same owner as my ebd

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Found it!

The GI buss wire on the back of the lightboard was juuust touching a washer that I had installed with a machine screw that went through the pasteboard because the little 3/16th screws had come loose. Ground away some of the washer and now not only do the GI and feature lights work properly, but the Squawk & Talk board has come to life. The minus 5 volts that the S&Q board needs comes from the GI buss. See before and after pics below.
One little short took out GI lights, feature lights and the sound board.

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That's the plastic insulation in the wires breaking down and coating the pins. It's bad. You need to cut back into the harness until it's not on the wires and put a new pin on. There's a section on pinwiki about it.

Blahhhhh thought it was sometbing bad. Ok thanks. Time to chop chop!

I’m repinning every plug anyway but wanted to check!

Have many of you put in a EBD hardtop from outside edge products? What are your thoughts & was it a huge project?

I have done 5 hardtops and I found that aligning the hardtop is the most important step. Do NOT try to align it by the small screw holes. Align by the inserts, pop bumper holes and rollover wire holes. You may later find some of the screw holes line up dead on but others can be up to 1/8" off.
An instructive video tells you to just tape down the the hardtop at the bottom of the playfield.
NO! Use a couple of pieces of wood and C-clamps at the bottom.
It only takes two people to install. One person uses both hands to slowly remove the backing from the underside, starting at the clamped/outhole end. Have the person removing the backing stand directly at the top of the playfield, not off to one side.The other person holds the top end of the hardtop with one hand and slowly begins to lower it. He uses the other hand, wearing a soft cotton glove, to smooth out the hardtop from the center to the sides.
Warning: the glue on this thing is strong. It can take your skin off. This is a one-shot deal. If you try to remove it you will rip the plywood apart. But don't let this scare you. If you have aligned it properly and have it clamped down, it will go down just fine.
And don't waste your time with sanding the whole pf. Just sand off the graphics from the inserts and about 1/8th inch around them. Don't worry about cupped inserts, the hardtop covers them. And for crying out loud, there is no reason to clearcoat the pf whatsoever. Waste of time and money.
As I said, my wife and I have done 5 of these. Before your first one you may have a little trepidation, but when you're done, you'll see that it was much easier.

Turned out pretty good. Took a while to fix this sucker. Still have sound issues but hopefully that will be done by Friday..

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Awesome. Dang, just had the whole topside off. When I pull this off route the hard top may be the thing to do.

Make sure you buy the HT directly from Outer Edge. There was a problem with the first run EBD and OE had corrected it and sent replacements as needed. Now I have both of them and don't know what to do with the first one as it will most likely bubble like it did on others that bought the first version. I guess wall art?

For reference here is the pinwiki link to this ^
https://www.pinwiki.com/wiki/index.php/Bally/Stern#So.2C_Just_What_is_this_Green_Slime.3F

The main offenders seem to be a black wire w/ green stripe and the stripe eats away or just breaks down oddly.

Here is a good expiation of what pinball wiring from the classic solid state era is doing:

"di-isoctyl phthalate as a plasticizer..... breaks down releasing hydrochloric acid from the PVC insulation. This acid attacks the copper conductor to form copper chloride (the blue green verdigris). The verdigris has a tendency to attract moisture which further corrodes the copper and this reacts with the plasticiser to form a green slime, which can become conductive in certain conditions creating low resistance paths and short circuits."

A couple of the displays male connects have it on it, and a few cab plugs. Can I just wash the plug with vinegar and repin. I would think once the plastic plus is cleaned well it "should" be ok.

Sure.. I have used PCB flux remover...
Clean, dry, repin.
It is amazing to be around long enough to see this stuff happening
now, that never was around twenty plus years ago.

What's a fairly decent/nice '81 version worth in today's market? I'm looking at selling mine, but having a tough time putting a price on it. It's got wear on the in-lanes up top and the sides on the bottom, and a few small spots by the 8 ball target and in front of the inlane drops. Overall the PF shows well since it's mostly mylared. Newer drop targets and plastics, and newer legs and levelers. Repainted the backbox frame. Solid cabinet. Nice backglass. Shows at probably a 7 or maybe 8. Overall a solid EBD. Mid or low $3K??

$3500 seems reasonable - though with the crazy pinflation these days, I could maybe see you get $4K.

Yeah, that's what I'm thinking. Don't think i'd ask 4K, but $3500 or $3600 is what i'm thinking.

Wish I were closer. I have a very nice EBD but it's the 1984 version. Would much prefer the original.