(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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  • Latest reply 1 day ago by Lmjdad
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There are 2389 posts in this topic. You are on page 20 of 48.
#951 2 years ago
Quoted from Skyemont:

I just got a EBD. When i got it home and turned it on, no power. Completely dead. I borrowed my fathers EBD transformer and power board. Mine now comes on, but will not play a game. Any ideas? No sound, no displays, won't start a game and no sound..

Does it boot correctly?

#952 2 years ago

Also, what are the voltages at the test points on the rectifier card in the cabinet?

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#953 2 years ago

Also, what are the voltages at the test points on the rectifier board in the bottom of the cabinet?

#954 2 years ago

Very Nicely done Teddy.

#955 2 years ago

What are the best connectors to replace all of mine and where is best place to get them?

#956 2 years ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

What are the best connectors to replace all of mine and where is best place to get them?

Got mine from Great Plains electronics. EBD is all .100 and .156 connectors I believe.

1 week later
#957 2 years ago

Need to replace the plastic ball guides. Is there anyone offering plastic repro's or better still metal ?? Tnx guys..

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#958 2 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Need to replace the plastic ball guides. Is there anyone offering plastic repro's or better still metal ?? Tnx guys..

Cliffys has metal ones.

#959 2 years ago

The guides are in the reproduction set, or you can template and get them cut by a laser locally in lexan/PETG. Best to make it worth the effort and do some other protectors at the same time. Usually $40-50/hour.

#960 2 years ago

Cliffy's offers Williams spec ball return guides but I don't see Bally (unless I'm just missing them). Is anyone offering the laser-cut lexan guides commercially??

#961 2 years ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Cliffy's offers Williams spec ball return guides but I don't see Bally (unless I'm just missing them). Is anyone offering the laser-cut lexan guides commercially??

http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

Here's the page I was talking about. I think I just emailed him and asked for the ones for EBD.

#962 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

Here's the page I was talking about. I think I just emailed him and asked for the ones for EBD.

He has them, they're just not on the site yet.

#963 2 years ago

Got my EBDLE last night.

Playfield is very nice, just needs a bit of drop target maintenance and I will eventually do a topside teardown/cleaning. Do those Cliffy return lane guides eliminate the ball hop?

I see Marco has the finned blue posts. Anyone order those, and if so will they be dark or light blue? Some of my posts have chipped at the bottom, but I do like the light blue look they have... possibly just from age.

#964 2 years ago

Congrats!! I loved mine

Quoted from MMP:

Do those Cliffy return lane guides eliminate the ball hop?

Yep. I also got some of the slim silicone flipper rings from Titan that I tried first but it didn't quite get me there. The cliffys did the trick.

#965 2 years ago

Ah, thanks for the Titan slim reminder! I will have to hit Cliffy up for a set of return lane guides.

#966 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Got my EBDLE last night.
Playfield is very nice, just needs a bit of drop target maintenance and I will eventually do a topside teardown/cleaning. Do those Cliffy return lane guides eliminate the ball hop?
I see Marco has the finned blue posts. Anyone order those, and if so will they be dark or light blue? Some of my posts have chipped at the bottom, but I do like the light blue look they have... possibly just from age.

Dark blue

#967 2 years ago

Here are a few pics of my game as it sits. This will be the oldest model game I've ever owned, so looking forward to learning a few things. Bought this one not really knowing much about it, and very pleased after closer inspection. No mylar and very little wear to speak of. Little bit around the pop bumpers and small planking near the B switch. Inside cab is much cleaner than I'd expect from a game this age.
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#968 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Here are a few pics of my game as it sits. This will be the oldest model game I've ever owned, so looking forward to learning a few things. Bought this one not really knowing much about it, and very pleased after closer inspection. No mylar and very little wear to speak of. Little bit around the pop bumpers and small planking near the B switch. Inside cab is much cleaner than I'd expect from a game this age.

That PF looks pretty nice to me. Wish mine looked that good, not that mine is bad, but. Considering no mylar, I'd be pretty pleased with it. Enjoy it. Best SS game there is...Congrats

#969 2 years ago

Joining the club. Finally! Anyway, I enjoy EBD on my Ipad and Flash Gordon is my favorite pin in my collection, so I think I'm going to love it.

It's also one of the first games I can finally check off my wishlist.

#970 2 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have an alltek lamp board in my game that allows me to put LEDs in the whole game without issue.

I was reading Vid's guide to LEDs but guess I am still confused. So with this board there is no need for soldering resistors to the lamps? When testing a few bulb outages I noticed some inserts are already fine, and some totally flicker. I'm pretty much ok with the look of incandescent in the inserts, but damn it gets hot... I can feel heat on the top of the playfield.

I've got a couple of lamps that are touchy and need to be bent in just the right position. Have a couple others that just aren't working. Is it common for these to fail and need replacement?

I'm also a bit confused by the location of some tall vs. short plastic posts. Is there a definitive list of correct placement?

#971 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I was reading Vid's guide to LEDs but guess I am still confused. So with this board there is no need for soldering resistors to the lamps? When testing a few bulb outages I noticed some inserts are already fine, and some totally flicker. I'm pretty much ok with the look of incandescent in the inserts, but damn it gets hot... I can feel heat on the top of the playfield.
I've got a couple of lamps that are touchy and need to be bent in just the right position. Have a couple others that just aren't working. Is it common for these to fail and need replacement?
I'm also a bit confused by the location of some tall vs. short plastic posts. Is there a definitive list of correct placement?

Yes check out Siegecraft for plug and play LED adapters. He just released the Aux light board adapter which you will also need. Works great. With the wide selection of LED color temps and bulb types available you can make those inserts look original and eliminate the damage caused by heat and UV. I kept the visible GI bulbs incandescent because I like the original look.

If you have 555 sockets (wedge type) they are notoriously flakey. You can usually get them to work but I choose to replace them with new bayonet style sockets instead of trying to fix them.

#972 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I was reading Vid's guide to LEDs but guess I am still confused. So with this board there is no need for soldering resistors to the lamps? When testing a few bulb outages I noticed some inserts are already fine, and some totally flicker. I'm pretty much ok with the look of incandescent in the inserts, but damn it gets hot... I can feel heat on the top of the playfield.

For my LE all I needed for using LEDs everywhere without issue was the alltek lamp board. no aux lamp board changes needed at all.

But yes the lamp board eliminates the need for resistors on each socket. My playfield got supper hot too. The LEDs helped with that.

#973 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I was reading Vid's guide to LEDs but guess I am still confused. So with this board there is no need for soldering resistors to the lamps? When testing a few bulb outages I noticed some inserts are already fine, and some totally flicker. I'm pretty much ok with the look of incandescent in the inserts, but damn it gets hot... I can feel heat on the top of the playfield.
I've got a couple of lamps that are touchy and need to be bent in just the right position. Have a couple others that just aren't working. Is it common for these to fail and need replacement?
I'm also a bit confused by the location of some tall vs. short plastic posts. Is there a definitive list of correct placement?

The Bally Auxiliary lamp board uses different SCRs that work fine with LEDs. The Alltek board just wires in all those resistors for you but on the board, rather than at the sockets. This is why you have to run that one wire to the live power lead for the controlled lamps.

#974 2 years ago

Getting ready to tackle the paint flaking on the lower edge of our backglass. Wondering if I can just triple-thick the problem areas or do I need to do the entire backglass (necessitating masking) ? Also looking for the hints/ tips on repainting that area that has flaked. It is entirely black within the affected area so will need black of course but wondering about a silver overcoat ? Tnx as always..

#975 2 years ago

Happy Holidays.
Which apron decal is correct for early version EBD with lift out backglass? The one with white background with the P touching the I in the word pinball is not correct. Yellow or beige?
Thank You

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#976 2 years ago

If you're looking for these plastics PM me. Leftover after repro install. 5$ + shipping.

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#977 2 years ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Happy Holidays.
Which apron decal is correct for early version EBD with lift out backglass? The one with white background with the P touching the I in the word pinball is not correct. Yellow or beige?
Thank You

Here is a picture of mine. FYI...there is a couple Pinsiders making new repro aprons...would have to check to see if there is still space for EBD

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/reproduction-bally-aprons

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#978 2 years ago

Thank You PM sent for one. Still curious which version is closer to correct? Yellow or Beige?
Happy Holidays
Andy

#979 2 years ago

Here's a pic of my 1st EBD. Not the best picture, but the only one I have with a decent shot of the apron. I can take a good picture of my recently acquired EBD apron tonight if you'd like?

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#980 2 years ago

Looks like yellow is closer to correct. Thank You

#981 2 years ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

If you're looking for these plastics PM me. Leftover after repro install. 5$ + shipping.

I'm curious, how did you and others deal with the metal pieces attached to the clear plastics on the repro set?

#982 2 years ago

When re-doing the playfield, would you want to replace cupped inserts with OE type for originality or update to star inserts to prevent future cupping?

#983 2 years ago
Quoted from alimerick:

Looks like yellow is closer to correct. Thank You

HOME now. Here are a couple pics of the apron on my current EBD

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#984 2 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

HOME now. Here are a couple pics of the apron on my current EBD

Your EBD has the plastic inlanes on top instead of on the bottom. Interesting. Mine only has the metal guides.

Looks like the stock way is the plastic on the bottom with the metal on top...go figure there would be modification over the years from people on a 35+ year old game

#985 2 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

Your EBD has the plastic inlanes on top instead of on the bottom. Interesting. Mine only has the metal guides.

My 1st EBD had just the metal guides. This one came with new plastic ones too. Wasn't sure where to the plastic ones, top or bottom or not at all. Likely just go to metal only. Looks better. I never have a problem with ball hop.

#986 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I'm curious, how did you and others deal with the metal pieces attached to the clear plastics on the repro set?

The only way I know of and what most people do is to heat it by inserting the tip of a soldering iron in until the plastic softens and then the little metal spacer can be worked out with needle nose or other type pliers. To put them in the new, place the hole over top of the spacer and heat the same way (carefully!) until you can pop the new plastic down onto it. The spacers were originally crimped onto the plastic rivet style. If anyone has a better way, please do share!

Shawn

#987 2 years ago

Was hoping to keep mine with original parts, but one of my horseshoe drops broke. I suppose these get brittle over time, and luckily there is a repro set available even if the originals look a bit better. Nearly finished with my current project, so EBD will be next teardown in line. Drop target mechs look like beasts compared to System 11 stuff I am used to!

I got the metal return lane guides from Cliffy. How did you all handle the metal posts on those? Wondering if there is a newer part that looks comparable.

I've been totally loving EBD game play and wish I had space to add more classic games to my collection.

#988 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

I got the metal return lane guides from Cliffy. How did you all handle the metal posts on those? Wondering if there is a newer part that looks comparable.
I've been totally loving EBD game play and wish I had space to add more classic games to my collection.

There is a guide on Cliffy's website....you file the metal posts off the old guides. I did it on my FG.
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#989 2 years ago

Still haven't posted a couple pics of my most recent EBD. Figured I should put a few up finally. This one will NEVER leave..

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#990 2 years ago

The lower lane guides are on upside down. The clear plastic piece is supposed to be below the metal piece.

On EBD the ball is never supposed to touch the metal guide. The clear plastic is so it doesn't scratch the ball and metal guide isn't ruined (like a lot of them are from having them backwards like these). Plus the illumination is correct with the clear piece below the metal one.

#991 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

The lower lane guides are on upside down. The clear plastic piece is supposed to be below the metal piece.
On EBD the ball is never supposed to touch the metal guide. The clear plastic is so it doesn't scratch the ball and metal guide isn't ruined (like a lot of them are from having them backwards like these). Plus the illumination is correct with the clear piece below the metal one.

That's what I always thought. I may switch them around, or I may just ditch the plastic. Never cared for the look, and it never damaged the ball before on my old EBD with just metal guides.

#992 2 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

The only way I know of and what most people do is to heat it by inserting the tip of a soldering iron in until the plastic softens and then the little metal spacer can be worked out with needle nose or other type pliers. To put them in the new, place the hole over top of the spacer and heat the same way (carefully!) until you can pop the new plastic down onto it. The spacers were originally crimped onto the plastic rivet style. If anyone has a better way, please do share!
Shawn

After removing the spacers from the old plastics as mentioned above, I carefully grind down the outer diameter of the spacer crimp flange to make it fit into the new plastics easier.

#993 2 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

That's what I always thought. I may switch them around, or I may just ditch the plastic. Never cared for the look, and it never damaged the ball before on my old EBD with just metal guides.

EBD is my specialty pin having restored a ton of them and I have seen numerous metal lane guides ruined from the owner placing them where the plastic guide piece is supposed to go. The metal guides not only scratch the ball which accelerates playfield wear, the guide itself is also ruined. After a while the metal guide will develop a burr on the leading edge. I've seen some worn so bad they are no longer functional.

Not to mention the illumination looks like shit with the metal guides blocking the light when placed in the wrong location.

The correct set-up is to have the metal guide on top with the replaceable plastic guide below. The metal guides are simply "garnishes" and are cosmetic. They are not supposed to touch the ball.

#994 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

EBD is my specialty pin having restored a ton of them and I have seen numerous metal lane guides ruined from the owner placing them where the plastic guide piece is supposed to go. The metal guides not only scratch the ball which accelerates playfield wear, the guide itself is also ruined. After a while the metal guide will develop a burr on the leading edge. I've seen some worn so bad they are no longer functional.
Not to mention the illumination looks like shit with the metal guides blocking the light when placed in the wrong location.
The correct set-up is to have the metal guide on top with the replaceable plastic guide below. The metal guides are simply "garnishes" and are cosmetic. They are not supposed to touch the ball.

I know EBD is your specialty. Been sort of my "specialty" as well being my favorite pin etc. and having owned it twice and played the crap out of in the 80's. And I also know I shouldn't have just the metal guides on there. I think I've read ever one of your posts on this thread over time because you know your EBD. With that said, I will put the plastics on the bottom and the metal guides up top...

#995 2 years ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

I know EBD is your specialty. Been sort of my "specialty" as well being my favorite pin etc. and having owned it twice and played the crap out of in the 80's. And I also know I shouldn't have just the metal guides on there. I think I've read ever one of your posts on this thread over time because you know your EBD. With that said, I will put the plastics on the bottom and the metal guides up top...

It's only common sense. You want the plastic piece to wear - not the ball.

It is designed to be replaceable and is inexpensive. In the field though, operators would do whatever necessary. Switching the two guide pieces around was a "rig" they did to keep the game running if they didn't have the correct plastic replacement. Long-term wear and tear was not a consideration.

#996 2 years ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

It's only common sense. You want the plastic piece to wear - not the ball.
It is designed to be replaceable and is inexpensive. In the field though, operators would do whatever necessary. Switching the two guide pieces around was a "rig" they did to keep the game running if they didn't have the correct plastic replacement. Long-term wear and tear was not a consideration.

Great...now that I hear all this while my example has only the metal guides....where can I get the metal spacers? Pinball Resource? Sure I could likely use something else too, if needed. I believe I saw in this thread someone had made the plastic replacement guides...will need to look further into that.

#997 2 years ago
Quoted from Captive_Ball:

Great...now that I hear all this while my example has only the metal guides....where can I get the metal spacers? Pinball Resource? Sure I could likely use something else too, if needed. I believe I saw in this thread someone had made the plastic replacement guides...will need to look further into that.

The metal spacers are not reproduced as far as I know although a few have asked if I was planning to reproduce them. You can find used ones on eBay occasionally. They were used on several Bally pins from the era.

The clear plastics are available from some of the parts vendors but the lower lane guides are also pretty-easy to make yourself if you have a bandsaw or a jigsaw and a sheet of the correct thickness Lexan or PETG. Once you replace the worn-out plastic guides with new ones, all the ball hop and other undesirable stuff from excessive wear goes away and the machine plays exactly as intended when new.

#998 2 years ago

Aren't there a bunch of games that use metal lane guides similar to these?

#999 2 years ago
Quoted from MMP:

Aren't there a bunch of games that use metal lane guides similar to these?

Not that I know of. There is Bally Buck Rogers and a couple others with some type of metal blade as a lane guide but not Eight Ball Deluxe.

I think Bally realized that plastic would be a lot better than having the ball ride on a stainless steel blade and a lot less to replace once it wears. Plus it allows for better illumination.

#1000 2 years ago

Embryon has metal guides.

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