New! Dark mode!

Browsing Pinside at night? Getting tired of all the white? Switch to dark mode using the button in the top right (or CTRL-B)!

(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

7 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 3,408 posts
  • 313 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 6 hours ago by wamonkey
  • Topic is favorited by 137 Pinsiders

You

Linked Games

Topic Gallery

There have been 1,123 images uploaded to this topic. (View topic image gallery).

EBD_DELUXE_TargetsW.jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
image (resized).jpg
pasted_image (resized).png
IMG_20201012_144944 (resized).jpg
90C46FC2-D73D-42CB-AD52-F0FC7FD462A6 (resized).jpeg
IMG_20201010_140821 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201010_140829 (resized).jpg
IMG_20201010_140901 (resized).jpg
lane (resized).jpg
IMG_20201009_125031 (resized).jpg
outlane ball guide (resized).jpg
066F0593-5123-4EC2-A794-AB791B8F1E68 (resized).jpeg
CDCE4134-10D2-4817-B9DB-827AB19920FB (resized).jpeg
EBD Shooter (resized).jpg

Topic index (key posts)

5 key posts have been marked in this topic (Show topic index)

There are 3408 posts in this topic. You are on page 68 of 69.
#3351 40 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

Frosted, always. Definitely not clear for GI, but I use frosted everywhere. 2SMD warm frosted are my favorite GI bulb. Sunlight is cool too but imo it's too much most of the time, at least for the kind of games I like.
[quoted image]
[quoted image][quoted image]

Looks fantastic. Yeah I can’t do the clear LEDs either. I tried them. Too harsh if I look right at them and they create halos in the plastics.

Quoted from Mathazar:

I started with 47s thinking I'll be saving my plastics but ultimately went to 44s because the 47s did seem too dim to me. And the more I thought about it, the more I convinced myself that 44s are no issue for home use....my pins aren't on 24/7 and by the time any appreciable burn marks do become noticeable I'll be dead and buried and it'll be the recipient of my estates problem.

Yeah 47s are a little too dim for my tastes.

#3352 40 days ago

Clear bulbs are gross, imo. Frosted 4 lyfe.

My Evo BriteCaps don't photograph worth a damn (at least in a full cab shot) which kind of takes away from the overall experience with the pics. But as for GI I've been really pleased with warm white in most of my machines. A few have cool white (Demo Man, Terminator 2, Cactus Jack's--which I didn't personally LED) but my preference is almost always warm, at least to start with.

I'm crossing my fingers with EBD and planning on trying warm white again. I still need to figure out what exactly I'm doing with the bulbs under the playfield, too. I absolutely detest those damn wedge sockets.

#3353 40 days ago
Quoted from KSUWildcatFan:

So, Comet 2SMD warm white is a no go? That's been one of my most commonly used GI bulbs for mid-80s games (Space Shuttle, High Speed, Taxi).. Doesn't look good on EBD?

That's what I have in mine and I think it looks great.

#3354 35 days ago

I am rebuilding an EBD (first run) that had a tough life. I'm replacing the side rails. Does anyone know the part number for the plastic channels under the side rails, or have a source for ones that fit properly? Thanks!

#3355 35 days ago
Quoted from ts4z:

I am rebuilding an EBD (first run) that had a tough life. I'm replacing the side rails. Does anyone know the part number for the plastic channels under the side rails, or have a source for ones that fit properly? Thanks!

https://www.pinballlife.com/playfield-glass-side-rail-plastic-channel.html

#3356 30 days ago

Hey folks I have an 84 style EBD that I made for a customer with the incorrect trim (he wanted Silver) so offering this one for a discounted price if anyone is interested. 25.00 shipped!

8b-1 (resized).jpg8b-2 (resized).jpg8b-3 (resized).jpg
#3357 28 days ago

Any idea where these are can be had? Marco has a 3" non-barbed (same size as -27 part) but no 2 1/2" in stock. Really don't want to make 'em. Pretty sure I'd use 6' of stock and turn-out some sad bits. Ideas?

wire guides (resized).jpg
#3358 28 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Any idea where these are can be had? Marco has a 3" non-barbed (same size as -27 part) but no 2 1/2" in stock. Really don't want to make 'em. Pretty sure I'd use 6' of stock and turn-out some sad bits. Ideas?
[quoted image]

If you have the money, take the parts to a wire spring manufacture in your area.
I had one close to me, they were able to make parts for Pinbot that broke.

#3359 28 days ago

So , picked another project EBD. This one was an LE that did not boot. Got it to boot and I was happy how much of the electronics worked with pin cleaning, fuses, etc. the S & T card is out for overhaul, need to replace one SCR and one memory drop coil. Not bad considering the age and gosh knows where this boy has been stored for years.
I have decided to keep it players quality. The play field is not pretty, but, I have another better condition used one to install. Little more clean up and it will be ready For play once the S and T board returns.
Does anyone have a good lead on matching touch up paint for the cabinet gold?

4CE35418-1009-4999-9A0A-8367A6435D44 (resized).jpeg55D30F7C-DF58-40E1-9F52-1B35EF8AF1A1 (resized).jpeg8E1C7FB8-8664-40ED-84F4-D7592926C0FF (resized).jpeg
#3360 23 days ago

There are two mini-posts positioned on either end of the horseshoe drops. On teardown, I see that our '84 machine had #10 woodscrew posts in both positions. There was no gross evidence of significant damage eg, no cracks, fissure, loosening etc. and I don't think these are positioned to take the big hits the post near the in-line drops takes. What's the tribal knowledge on this? Stay w/ the screw posts or switch to #8 threaded studs? Thanks !!

minipost (resized).jpgpf minposts (resized).jpg
#3361 23 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

There are two mini-posts positioned on either end of the horseshoe drops. On teardown, I see that our '84 machine had #10 woodscrew posts in both positions. There was no gross evidence of significant damage eg, no cracks, fissure, loosening etc. and I don't think these are positioned to take the big hits the post near the in-line drops takes. What's the tribal knowledge on this? Stay w/ the screw posts or switch to #8 threaded studs? Thanks !!
[quoted image][quoted image]

The top mini post has a tendency to crack the edge of the playfield.
1) predrill hole to a size #5 or #6 and carefully use a sharp #6 sheet metal screw to slightly
-- prethread the hole... use dry soap as lubricant.
-- carefully step up size. use dry soap.
CAUTION:
-- Go slow, stop if wood starts to split. May need to increase hole size.

#3362 22 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

Stay w/ the screw posts or switch to #8 threaded studs?

Bottom one doesn't matter as much as no direct hits since the rubber is there. Top one I swapped to a machine threaded stud but I think I used the #6 one. That's a really critical portion of the playfield, don't necessarily trust the dimples on a swap - dry fit everything first and adjust if needed.

#3363 22 days ago
Quoted from vec-tor:

The top mini post has a tendency to crack the edge of the playfield.
1) predrill hole to a size #5 or #6 and carefully use a sharp #6 sheet metal screw to slightly
-- prethread the hole... use dry soap as lubricant.
-- carefully step up size. use dry soap.
CAUTION:
-- Go slow, stop if wood starts to split. May need to increase hole size.

Quoted from slochar:

Bottom one doesn't matter as much as no direct hits since the rubber is there. Top one I swapped to a machine threaded stud but I think I used the #6 one. That's a really critical portion of the playfield, don't necessarily trust the dimples on a swap - dry fit everything first and adjust if needed.

I didn’t know about this top right side one. So that’s 2 that really should be machine threaded posts including the left mini post. Are there any others posts that should be machine threaded?

#3364 22 days ago

Tnx guys ! All good suggestions. The flanges on replacement #8 T-nuts offered by Marco are small enough to fit nicely so I've decided to use them at both spots. I sank a #10 minipost on the left w/ a recessed nut and it looks like I could hang on it if I needed too. I'm trying to bullet-proof this thing w/o going too far overboard. The pf is mostly repopulated now so the T-nuts can't be hammered in. I found that the mondo-vise that I used to sink the large T-nuts at the head of the board just fits inside the Horseshoe target opening and should make for easy work of it. Will let all know how it goes - particularly if its a flounder. Send luck..

#3365 17 days ago

Got those 2 #8 posts in. Needed to countersink the T-nuts. Turned out nice and the posts are rock stable. Recommend it..

Geaza1p-1598 (resized).jpgypOXz1p-1594 (resized).jpg
#3366 17 days ago

Question for LE owners: Ever tried taking Novus 2 to the red tinted lower score plexi? Buffs up nice or no?

#3367 17 days ago
Quoted from mr2xbass:

Question for LE owners: Ever tried taking Novus 2 to the red tinted lower score plexi? Buffs up nice or no?

I wet sanded mine with 2000 grit and polished with meguiars D300.
468464E5-263A-4A46-8FCD-D970C1A52569.jpeg

8FAE9FCC-6015-467D-B2C0-82E8F1BA32CD.jpeg
#3368 16 days ago
Quoted from onemoresean:

I wet sanded mine with 2000 grit and polished with meguiars D300.

Wow. I mean just, wow. That look's amazing.

I'm currently working on a Centaur II, and now have renewed hope for restoring its same piece.

#3369 15 days ago

Please take a look at this photo. My custom ball shooter rod appears to be shedding. Is this the right bracket here?

753589D1-F931-4226-A9A7-B9CC2CE34E9B (resized).jpeg

#3370 15 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Please take a look at this photo. My custom ball shooter rod appears to be shedding. Is this the right bracket here?

Looks like it. Here's mine (I can get a better photo if you need it....this is from my restoration stash).

EBD Shooter (resized).jpg
#3371 15 days ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Looks like it. Here's mine (I can get a better photo if you need it....this is from my restoration stash).
[quoted image]

Thanks for the photo. I’m going to open it up tonight. It looks like you have the nylon bushing in there. I’m not sure I even have that in there. It’s either missing or broken and the metal shavings are falling out.

CDCE4134-10D2-4817-B9DB-827AB19920FB (resized).jpeg
#3372 14 days ago

Not broken but someone must have oiled it. What a mess.

066F0593-5123-4EC2-A794-AB791B8F1E68 (resized).jpeg
#3373 11 days ago

About to install the outlane ball guides. Anybody know the final height on these? A 3/32" drill bit is same size (exactly) as the wire stock. Best to undersize the holes or go w/ 3/32". Tnx guys..

outlane ball guide (resized).jpg
#3374 11 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

About to install the outlane ball guides. Anybody know the final height on these? A 3/32" drill bit is same size (exactly) as the wire stock. Best to undersize the holes or go w/ 3/32". Tnx guys..
[quoted image]

I learned a long time ago to install these at the beginning of the swap. Right after the T nuts. This way the pf will be flat and can be placed on a solid surface and that will pf the pf from bouncing when tapping the guides down.
This is for next time as obviously your way ahead. I noticed on cpr swaps if you predrill 3/32, the guides tend to be too loose. I would go the next size down, i think it's 7/64th but check on that. Or maybe 5/64th. Better to start small and work to larger if needed. Also the holes should go all the way through to the other side. The guides have a flat point and you don't want to split the wood.

#3375 11 days ago

Typo. Prevent not pf

#3376 11 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I noticed on cpr swaps if you predrill 3/32, the guides tend to be too loose. I would go the next size down, i think it's 7/64th but check on that. Or maybe 5/64th.

3/32=6/64.

So, 5/64.

Math. It's what's for dinner.

#3377 11 days ago
Quoted from slochar:

3/32=6/64.
So, 5/64.
Math. It's what's for dinner.

ok mighty wise one was half asleep when I posted

#3378 11 days ago

Thank ya boys ! I'm on it..

#3379 11 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I learned a long time ago to install these at the beginning of the swap. Right after the T nuts. This way the pf will be flat and can be placed on a solid surface and that will pf the pf from bouncing when tapping the guides down.
This is for next time as obviously your way ahead. I noticed on cpr swaps if you predrill 3/32, the guides tend to be too loose. I would go the next size down, i think it's 7/64th but check on that. Or maybe 5/64th. Better to start small and work to larger if needed. Also the holes should go all the way through to the other side. The guides have a flat point and you don't want to split the wood.

DING,DING,Ding.

#3380 11 days ago
Quoted from DocGar:

About to install the outlane ball guides. Anybody know the final height on these? A 3/32" drill bit is same size (exactly) as the wire stock. Best to undersize the holes or go w/ 3/32". Tnx guys..
[quoted image]

I have used an awl to enlarge the hole from the bottom side in order to help prevent wood split...
One might need to add "superglue" and a #6 small sheet metal screw ( hex washer head )
to hold the guide rail in place.
Note: Factor had a wood spacer to control metal guide height when hammered in place.

#3381 10 days ago

Saw this on location in Breckenridge and was pretty excited, until I played it. It was about as rough (maybe rougher!) than mine was before it got torn down to hardtop. I still have yet to play a decent example of this damn game, lol.

IMG_20201009_125031 (resized).jpg
#3382 10 days ago

I carefully used a metal file to put a rough point on each end of the guide stock. Hole was 5/64" drilled thru. Pre-marked the desired depth on the stock w/ fine-point Sharpie and used small dead-blow to tap it home. Not bad at all and feels like it isn't going to migrate. I think the file did the heavy lifting on this one.

lane (resized).jpg
#3383 10 days ago

Need Help! EBD '81 - half of my playfield lights won't light up. I installed all new Alltek Boards. Replaced all lights with LEDs. Replaced all pin connectors on the Lamp Driver Board. Still nothing. New fuses, etc. When I run a wire from the board to a light directly it will come on. I am wondering if the Lamp Test Socket near the SEB could be the problem?? The light does not come on. It was screwed up by someone and I ran a new wire (brown one) across them where the bare wire was cut. Is this right? Would this cause my other lights to be off? I see no problems anywhere under the PF anywhere. No loose wires, nothing. Been working on this for ages.

IMG_20201010_140821 (resized).jpgIMG_20201010_140829 (resized).jpgIMG_20201010_140901 (resized).jpg
#3384 9 days ago

I remember helping you w this weeks ago. Something doesn't look right on the seb lamp socket. Looks like a jumper wire going across the 2 tabs? Could be a dead short if I'm seeing what I think I see. The blue wires and the brown are correct.

Are the non working lamps.in a group or random?

#3385 9 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I remember helping you w this weeks ago. Something doesn't look right on the seb lamp socket. Looks like a jumper wire going across the 2 tabs? Could be a dead short if I'm seeing what I think I see. The blue wires and the brown are correct.
Are the non working lamps.in a group or random?

I just took another look at the pics. If that is a jumper then it could be a repair attempt on the socket. Pull the bulb and ohm out the socket inner tabs to each outer tabs.

#3386 9 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Are the non working lamps.in a group or random?

They are in groups - the DELUXE lights, lights leading to 8 ball, and others. In clusters

#3387 9 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I just took another look at the pics. If that is a jumper then it could be a repair attempt on the socket. Pull the bulb and ohm out the socket inner tabs to each outer tabs.

Yes it looks like a jumper. I'm not sure if it was a hack or a factory part. By your comment it appears to be a hack and not standard! Thanks. I'll see what happens.

#3388 9 days ago
Quoted from PINBALL-LUST:

They are in groups - the DELUXE lights, lights leading to 8 ball, and others. In clusters

O.K.
1) check voltage to lamps +6.5 volts d.c.
O.K.?
1a) yes, check continuity in back box.
1b) no, check for broken +6.5 volt d.c. buss.
if all good? then
2) check grounds on lamp driver boards.
2a) check ground on AUX lamp driver board. A9J1-15 [58] White with black trace.
if all good? then
step 3 if bad step 4...
3) check continuity strobe wires
3a) check continuity for bad SCR.
3b) check continuity for bad buffer IC.
4)
if ground is bad check pins for burnt connections... repair.
--- add aux grounds to AUX lamp board.
4a) retest lamps...

#3389 8 days ago

Just wondering if someone used the wrong speaker for my game. Schematic shows 8 ohm speaker but this looks like a 4 ohm speaker. I know Ken Layton had found some replacements online in another thread.

90C46FC2-D73D-42CB-AD52-F0FC7FD462A6 (resized).jpeg
#3390 7 days ago

I've just joined the club after many years of waiting and anticipation Technically I'm not the owner as the game is just on loan to me (temporarily traded my Flash Gordon).

Not sure if this had been mentioned before, but why are the drop targets horse shoes and not pool balls or pool racks? I get that it is western themed game, but the targets are supoosed to represent the pool balls.

IMG_20201012_144944 (resized).jpg
#3391 7 days ago
Quoted from woz:

I've just joined the club after many years of waiting and anticipation Technically I'm not the owner as the game is just on loan to me (temporarily traded my Flash Gordon).
Not sure if this had been mentioned before, but why are the drop targets horse shoes and not pool balls or pool racks? I get that it is western themed game, but the targets are supoosed to represent the pool balls.
[quoted image]

Damn good question. I never thought of that. Might be because the same drops are used for other players that have the stripes and are different numbers. Might make it confusing.

#3392 7 days ago

Mechanical Bull riding and the such, was very popular at the time this
game was made.

#3393 7 days ago
Quoted from phillyfan64:

Just wondering if someone used the wrong speaker for my game. Schematic shows 8 ohm speaker but this looks like a 4 ohm speaker. I know Ken Layton had found some replacements online in another thread.
[quoted image]

That’s the right one. EBD, Fathom, Centaur etc. had 4 ohm from the factory.

#3394 7 days ago
Quoted from jj44114:

That’s the right one. EBD, Fathom, Centaur etc. had 4 ohm from the factory.

Thank you. I thought about replacing it but I’m just going to leave it.

#3395 7 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Might be because the same drops are used for other players that have the stripes and are different numbers. Might make it confusing.

This is the reason there horseshoes and not ball numbers..

#3396 7 days ago
Quoted from PINBALL-LUST:

Need Help! EBD '81 - half of my playfield lights won't light up. I installed all new Alltek Boards. Replaced all lights with LEDs. Replaced all pin connectors on the Lamp Driver Board. Still nothing. New fuses, etc. When I run a wire from the board to a light directly it will come on. I am wondering if the Lamp Test Socket near the SEB could be the problem??

Hmm, that looks very hacked like someone repurposed a GI light for the SEB load lamp. Here is how the load lamp should be wired. The common side is the Switched il bus. That would be a common wire to every other switched lamp. The activate from the lamp driver boards scr should be a small 22 AWG blue wire that goes to the load lamp and the SEB pin 2. The circuit is attached. When the SEB load lamp was severed and moved they GI main bus could have been cut causing lamps to be out. As it looks to me it looks like GI power is driving the load lamp.

pasted_image (resized).png
#3397 4 days ago

Hello all,
My EBD has been fixed all along the years with many types of screws Would you know what is the official type of wood screw used to hold the main plastics on posts ? (the ones that are long enough to go through 2 "bell" posts). Thanks!

#3398 4 days ago
Quoted from matiou:

Hello all,
My EBD has been fixed all along the years with many types of screws Would you know what is the official type of wood screw used to hold the main plastics on posts ? (the ones that are long enough to go through 2 "bell" posts). Thanks!

Bally used: #6 round head Phillips wood screws that are sheet metal threaded.
Bally EM pinballs have a different Phillips style head.

#3399 1 day ago

Ok - working two restores at the same time probably not the best idea but on Eight Ball Deluxe I have fixed some things so far, more to go... (other restore is Flash Gordon) I jump back and forth when I am waiting for parts. But, I could use some help...

On the big drop target and stand up assembly, all the drop targets register, score, make the right sounds. But, the stand up targets behind the drop targets never score or register.

I have new Alltek boards, already re-pinned J2 on the MPU. Not visible broken wires...I can look more but nothing was obvious.

I assume I can take the whole assembly out and replace all the diodes and capacitors on all the yellow stand up targets...

Does that seem like the next logical step? It’s not hard and that is cheap but I don’t want to waste time.

Again all the 1-8 drop targets register right it is all the yellow stand up targets that don’t work.

Could use advice to not waste time and just stab at things.

#3400 1 day ago
Quoted from wamonkey:

Does that seem like the next logical step? It’s not hard and that is cheap but I don’t want to waste time.

What's common about all those switches? If you look at the playfield switch schematic it's the switch strobe #3 wire signal (white-yellow wire that comes from MPU J2 pin 4). First thing to do is determine if there's a break in signal. Note it also goes to the outlane switches so check if they work too.

Promoted items from the Pinside Marketplace
From: $ 140.00
$ 90.00
From: $ 155.00
$ 149.00
From: $ 20.00
Cabinet - Other
Rock Custom Pinball
There are 3408 posts in this topic. You are on page 68 of 69.

Hey there! Got a moment?

Great to see you're enjoying Pinside! Did you know Pinside is able to run thanks to donations from our visitors? Please donate to Pinside, support the site and get anext to your username to show for it! Donate to Pinside