(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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#1951 1 year ago
Quoted from Moonshot:

Picking up a EBD LE on the weekend
What's the best way to transport
I know head must come off
Do connectors need to be unplugged or is there enough room to fold over like a newer game

What kind of vehicle are you using? In many SUV's or minivans you will not need to remove the head at all, just taking the legs off can make it fit (and will save you a bunch of work).

#1952 1 year ago

I have two early EBDs and both of them need the backglass surround repainted. Does anyone have the mixing formula or a paint brand/color code that is a good match for the yellowish/cream color?

#1953 1 year ago

Wow, those side exit lanes allow the ball to drain more than I recall on just about any other game. Is it just the nature of the beast or has anyone adjusted anything or added posts to cut down on that?

#1954 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Wow, those side exit lanes allow the ball to drain more than I recall on just about any other game. Is it just the nature of the beast or has anyone adjusted anything or added posts to cut down on that?

The upper posts under the left and right sling shot plastics have pre-drilled holes in the playfield for moving the posts up and down for conservative, medium and liberal adjustments. Only takes a few minutes to change them.

#1955 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The upper posts under the left and right sling shot plastics have pre-drilled holes in the playfield for moving the posts up and down for conservative, medium and liberal adjustments. Only takes a few minutes to change them.

I hadn't noticed that. Thanks for the tip.

#1956 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

The upper posts under the left and right sling shot plastics have pre-drilled holes in the playfield for moving the posts up and down for conservative, medium and liberal adjustments. Only takes a few minutes to change them.

Interestingly, the left post had two other holes drilled (it was set in the middle position), but the right post had no additional holes.

#1957 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Interestingly, the left post had two other holes drilled (it was set in the middle position), but the right post had no additional holes.

Weird that right sling doesn't have all three holes. Mine does (1984 version) - here's the diagram if it helps anyone. Also, the manual has the recommended scoring options based on the same post settings (Conservative / Medium / Liberal).
EBD '84 Panel Parts.jpg

#1958 1 year ago

I've had my EBD now for almost 35 years, and I've never noticed any real difference in behavior between having the slingshots adjusted in those positions.

I tried a lot of switching back and forth, but it didn't seem to matter. I don't even remember now which position I finally left them in.

And Yes, the outlanes are pretty mean on this game.

#1959 1 year ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

I have two early EBDs and both of them need the backglass surround repainted. Does anyone have the mixing formula or a paint brand/color code that is a good match for the yellowish/cream color?

You find your paint code yet for the backbox trim? If not I can post a pic and details of what I have later today after I get home

#1960 1 year ago

Hey guys. Joined the club yesterday with a project machine. I’m so excited to get started. Brought home a good example of an early production game with white caps. Playfield is a bit worn but not horrible. Backglass has some peeling paint. The game is completely disassembled. The cabinet is empty except the powered board and transformer. It came with a bin full of parts. Looks like everything is there. More importantly the package included a new CPR Playfield and shay backglass. Cabinet and head are decent. At some point will likely strip and paint them but the initial phase will be to clean everything up and restore all the guts, swap the Playfield , get it running and then play the hell out of it for a while. Thanks pinsider Cheddar for everything!

A few pics. You can see the side of the head where someone added some cream paint over the original. A little ME and alcohol pulls that up without disturbing the paint underneath.

Dave
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#1961 1 year ago

And coin door restoration starts the process.

Dave

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#1962 1 year ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

Hey guys. Joined the club yesterday with a project machine. I’m so excited to get started. Brought home a good example of an early production game with white caps. Playfield is a bit worn but not horrible. Backglass has some peeling paint. The game is completely disassembled. The cabinet is empty except the powered board and transformer. It came with a bin full of parts. Looks like everything is there. More importantly the package included a new CPR Playfield and shay backglass. Cabinet and head are decent. At some point will likely strip and paint them but the initial phase will be to clean everything up and restore all the guts, swap the Playfield , get it running and then play the hell out of it for a while. Thanks pinsider Cheddar for everything!
A few pics. You can see the side of the head where someone added some cream paint over the original. A little ME and alcohol pulls that up without disturbing the paint underneath.
Dave
[quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image][quoted image]

Welcome to the club! Have you thought about starting a new thread and documenting your rebuild/restoration process? I know a lot of folks (myself included) love watching other people's work. Great for learning and getting new ideas.

#1963 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Welcome to the club! Have you thought about starting a new thread and documenting your rebuild/restoration process? I know a lot of folks (myself included) love watching other people's work. Great for learning and getting new ideas.

Thank thank you Mathazar. I thought about it but I was thinking there are plenty of similar threads and I’m just a home hobbyist average guy. I would like to do a thread so maybe your encouragement we’ll get me to do it.

Dave

#1964 1 year ago
Quoted from Calipindave:

Thank thank you Mathazar. I thought about it but I was thinking there are plenty of similar threads and I’m just a home hobbyist average guy. I would like to do a thread so maybe your encouragement we’ll get me to do it.
Dave

I'm just a home hobbyist as well....been a player for 40+ years, but didn't buy my first pin until this time last year (EBD). A few months later, I bought a NIB Star Trek Pro Vault. The next month, I bought a Black Knight. Over the summer, I started doing my own maintenance on the old solid states (I have an electronics background early in my career) and I got enough courage to buy not one project Mata Hari last month, but two. Neither worked and picked them up for a few hundred each. Goal is to restore one for keeps and get the other to a working player's condition and flip. I'm by far no pro, but I'm starting to document my journey on the keeper Mata Hari - will be putting up a dedicated thread on that soon. I'm going to get it working 100% first (almost there), then do a topside tear down for a hard top install, and then put it all back with new plastics and a tasteful LED conversion. After I play with that for a while, I'm going to tear everything out again and get it down to a naked cabinet and backbox and have a local guy repair the wood and repaint (that's out of my comfort zone). While the cabinet is out for paint, I'll tumble the smaller steel pieces for a nice shine and try to revive the bigger pieces by hand. Then it's re-assembly and hopefully a permanent place in my game room lineup.

Good luck with reviving your EBD, Dave!

Kris

#1965 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I'm just a home hobbyist as well....been a player for 40+ years, but didn't buy my first pin until this time last year (EBD). A few months later, I bought a NIB Star Trek Pro Vault. The next month, I bought a Black Knight. Over the summer, I started doing my own maintenance on the old solid states (I have an electronics background early in my career) and I got enough courage to buy not one project Mata Hari last month, but two. Neither worked and picked them up for a few hundred each. Goal is to restore one for keeps and get the other to a working player's condition and flip. I'm by far no pro, but I'm starting to document my journey on the keeper Mata Hari - will be putting up a dedicated thread on that soon. I'm going to get it working 100% first (almost there), then do a topside tear down for a hard top install, and then put it all back with new plastics and a tasteful LED conversion. After I play with that for a while, I'm going to tear everything out again and get it down to a naked cabinet and backbox and have a local guy repair the wood and repaint (that's out of my comfort zone). While the cabinet is out for paint, I'll tumble the smaller steel pieces for a nice shine and try to revive the bigger pieces by hand. Then it's re-assembly and hopefully a permanent place in my game room lineup.
Good luck with reviving your EBD, Dave!
Kris

Thank you Kris. Sounds like you are in full bore too. You ate the first chip and within months had the whole bag. . I think you have a good handle on things. I look forward the seeing your threads.

I took your suggestion and started a new thread to document the work..

Dave

#1966 1 year ago

Does anyone know what paint types/colors are needed for the playfield? I am thinking about touching up some of mine.

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#1967 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Does anyone know what paint types/colors are needed for the playfield? I am thinking about touching up some of mine.
[quoted image]

I think your pf is better then mine.

Dave

#1968 1 year ago
Quoted from Daditude:

Does anyone know what paint types/colors are needed for the playfield? I am thinking about touching up some of mine.
[quoted image]

I don't believe there's specific color for the pf. These pf's were made by different manufacturers for the same title. Also each ages differently due to sun light, environment and exposure, etc. etc.

Your best bet is to try and match the colors by trial and error of send to a pro for touch up.

#1969 1 year ago

Anybody have problems with saucer shots sometimes skipping over and past the saucer? It is aggravating especially when lit for big points or special. It’s an NOS pf and new plastics all from many years ago. I’ve tried pushing the outer clear guide plastic as far inward as it can go while tightening it down which seemed to improve it but still happens sometimes. Any suggestions? Thanks!

#1970 1 year ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Any suggestions?

I know what you mean very frustrating ! Makes me not want to play it

I tried this.It's not pretty but works quite well. It had to be anchored in two places otherwise it swivels.

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#1971 1 year ago

calipindave, Nice Star Lube/Sizer. I have 3 of them! Been casting my own for a very long time.

#1972 1 year ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Anybody have problems with saucer shots sometimes skipping over and past the saucer? It is aggravating especially when lit for big points or special. It’s an NOS pf and new plastics all from many years ago. I’ve tried pushing the outer clear guide plastic as far inward as it can go while tightening it down which seemed to improve it but still happens sometimes. Any suggestions? Thanks!

Yes - this happens to me on mine as well and quite often...probably 5 or 6 times out of 10. I remember having the same issue as a kid in the arcade back in the 80's, so I just figured it's a tough skill shot on this game. On the bright side...the saucer hole is in nice shape, not beat up at all.

#1973 1 year ago
Quoted from yfz450:

calipindave, Nice Star Lube/Sizer. I have 3 of them! Been casting my own for a very long time.

Ha yes yfz450. I saw that in the pic and wondered if anybody would know what it was. That’s my other main hobby. My brother and I are active Cowboy Shooters. (As well as target and some trap). I cast for everything we shoot.

Dave

#1974 1 year ago

Must be getting hard to get lead in that state of yours? I've been hording many years, sitting on well over 1500lbs of ww ingots, should last me awhile.

#1975 1 year ago
Quoted from yfz450:

Must be getting hard to get lead in that state of yours? I've been hording many years, sitting on well over 1500lbs of ww ingots, should last me awhile.

Yeah. Impossible....been casting forever and have saved up for a rainy day.

Dave

#1976 1 year ago
Quoted from frenchmarky:

Anybody have problems with saucer shots sometimes skipping over and past the saucer? It is aggravating especially when lit for big points or special. It’s an NOS pf and new plastics all from many years ago. I’ve tried pushing the outer clear guide plastic as far inward as it can go while tightening it down which seemed to improve it but still happens sometimes. Any suggestions? Thanks!

That's a tough area on this game. If the saucer mech is off slightly the ball will not eject and fall back into the saucer, or over shoots the saucer in your case. I have done 3 resto EBD's and this happened to me as well. It's possible that the clear plastics there are worn down. Can you try moving the lower clear plastic upward to close the gap?

#1977 1 year ago

Ughhh. I just got done switching over the playfield lighting (and under the playfield) to LEDs, and some of them are flickering, even though they're supposed to be non-ghosting.

Also, the right target bank is not popping up at all. I don't think I bumped anything but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

#1978 1 year ago
Quoted from Bohdi:

You find your paint code yet for the backbox trim? If not I can post a pic and details of what I have later today after I get home

Nothing yet. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!

#1979 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Ughhh. I just got done switching over the playfield lighting (and under the playfield) to LEDs, and some of them are flickering, even though they're supposed to be non-ghosting.
Also, the right target bank is not popping up at all. I don't think I bumped anything but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

Are you running the original Bally lamp board? If so, your LEDs will flicker (including non-ghosting). You need an Alltek lamp board (https://www.allteksystems.com/alltek-products-led-lamp-board.html), or Flicker Eliminator Adapter (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MB-07-010) or put resistors on each control lamp socket one by one.

#1980 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Are you running the original Bally lamp board? If so, your LEDs will flicker (including non-ghosting). You need an Alltek lamp board (https://www.allteksystems.com/alltek-products-led-lamp-board.html), or Flicker Eliminator Adapter (https://www.marcospecialties.com/pinball-parts/MB-07-010) or put resistors on each control lamp socket one by one.

Or you can modify your existing lamp driver board by adding resistor networks to the lamp outputs. I use 560 ohm networks. The wire goes to the common on each of the resistor networks and then attaches to the controlled light buss just like the Alltek board. Works great and costs less than $5 for parts.

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#1981 1 year ago

Holy crap - this shop wants $6K for an EBD LE!

ebay.com link » Eight Ball Deluxe By Bally Limited Edition Original Pinball Machine 1982

How hard is it to put the correct drop targets in when trying to collect $6K? And there are 15 Watchers....I'm hoping they're watching to see which fool drops $6K on at best a $2500 example.

#1982 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Ughhh. I just got done switching over the playfield lighting (and under the playfield) to LEDs, and some of them are flickering, even though they're supposed to be non-ghosting.
Also, the right target bank is not popping up at all. I don't think I bumped anything but any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!

check the fuses under the playfield for your target re-set issue

#1983 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Holy crap - this shop wants $6K for an EBD LE!
ebay.com link » Eight Ball Deluxe By Bally Limited Edition Original Pinball Machine 1982
How hard is it to put the correct drop targets in when trying to collect $6K? And there are 15 Watchers....I'm hoping they're watching to see which fool drops $6K on at best a $2500 example.

Yes, it seems the outlandish prices on items attract watchers to see if it really sells for that price. I've done that too.

#1984 1 year ago
Quoted from tominator:

check the fuses under the playfield for your target re-set issue

They seem fine. I'm wondering if I knocked a wire loose somewhere when I was installing the LEDs.

#1985 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

They seem fine. I'm wondering if I knocked a wire loose somewhere when I was installing the LEDs.

I would pull the fuses out and check with a DMM to be sure - only takes a few seconds. I've been bitten a couple of times by visual inspection and learned my lesson the hard way. Spent an hour or more looking for problems elsewhere after looking at a fuse and thinking it's ok only to find that it's actually open/blown after pulling it out and putting a DMM on it.

#1986 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

I would pull the fuses out and check with a DMM to be sure - only takes a few seconds. I've been bitten a couple of times by visual inspection and learned my lesson the hard way. Spent an hour or more looking for problems elsewhere after looking at a fuse and thinking it's ok only to find that it's actually open/blown after pulling it out and putting a DMM on it.

Ok, this is weird. Although the 7-drop-target bank doesn't reset (pop back up) at the start of the game, or for a second player, it does pop up when doing the solenoid diagnostic test. That implies there is power to the assembly, but why isn't it popping up as it should during the game?

#1987 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

Ok, this is weird. Although the 7-drop-target bank doesn't reset (pop back up) at the start of the game, or for a second player, it does pop up when doing the solenoid diagnostic test. That implies there is power to the assembly, but why isn't it popping up as it should during the game?

While in game mode, drop each target with your finger. Does each target score?

#1988 1 year ago
Quoted from FiatsRUs:

I have two early EBDs and both of them need the backglass surround repainted. Does anyone have the mixing formula or a paint brand/color code that is a good match for the yellowish/cream color?

Here's the paint I used. And as you know the code is not ledgable Hopefully get it from S/W tomorrow

20190220_173640 (resized).jpg20190220_173611 (resized).jpg
#1989 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

Holy crap - this shop wants $6K for an EBD LE!
ebay.com link » Eight Ball Deluxe By Bally Limited Edition Original Pinball Machine 1982
How hard is it to put the correct drop targets in when trying to collect $6K? And there are 15 Watchers....I'm hoping they're watching to see which fool drops $6K on at best a $2500 example.

I have noticed that seller asks for very high prices for their games. I think the average price for a LE is around $2500. To me the original version was the best. I restored 3 of them and sold them for total of almost $18K. But, they were full blown restos with CPR pf's and chrome up the wazoo lol.

#1990 1 year ago
Quoted from BigAl56:

Did you replace the dummy light under the playfield with an LED? If you did that the solenoid expander may not be working properly causing that coil to fail.

Well, thank you for pointing me in the right direction! As soon as I put an incandescent bulb back in that spot everything works properly. So it wasn't that the coil failed, it was that that bulb somehow regulates electrical flow, and without it things won't be running at the proper voltage.

As xTheBlackKnightx said on another thread...

"IMPORTANT TECHNICAL NOTE:
DO NOT USE a LED in the SEB lamp, as this will not work in the circuit theory based on necessary voltage unless the circuit has been adjusted with resistance based on a standard Ohm's Law calculation. A lot of new owners do not seem to understand the SEB design technology and why/how it was used. Read the base schematics closely. The SEB lamp is part of lamp matrix, not the SDB, and does not draw power from this part of the game. The proper 6.5v from the SEB lamp is extremely important in order to draw enough current to the MOC3011 opto-isolator on the SEB and activate. I have already seen young technicians not understand these aspects and make this mistake repeatedly on this series of games.

The SEB lamp is not "just another feature lamp".

Capture (resized).JPG
#1991 1 year ago

To all,

Does anyone know the size of the screws that attach the top of the pop bumpers to the skirts? Can't seem to find it.

Plaw

#1992 1 year ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

To all,
Does anyone know the size of the screws that attach the top of the pop bumpers to the skirts? Can't seem to find it.
Plaw

IIRC it's a specialty screw about 3/4 in long with course thread. I probably have a few extra ones if you're not in a hurry. My pins and parts are in storage and I just moved so it will take a week or 2 to get to them.

#1993 1 year ago

New to the forum...
Had an EBD (‘81) for 20 years and a new playfield from CPR. Trying to swap out and convert to the socketed lamp boards used on EBD Limited. I have both my EBD and a limited playfield to use as a guide, but the Limited is a little hacked here and there.
My question is relative to the playfield fuses. My EBD has 1 fuse, Limited Edition 3. I know the 1 amp gets the 2 browns and 2 yellows for the coils...same as original.
What do I hook up to the other 2, for lighting. Looks like they both have a line (1 blue, 1 black with white stripes) that runs back to power board. Then, I assume I just ground the other side to lamp sockets?
Anybody done this?
Thx

#1994 1 year ago
Quoted from Tecomd:

New to the forum...
Had an EBD (‘81) for 20 years and a new playfield from CPR. Trying to swap out and convert to the socketed lamp boards used on EBD Limited. I have both my EBD and a limited playfield to use as a guide, but the Limited is a little hacked here and there.
My question is relative to the playfield fuses. My EBD has 1 fuse, Limited Edition 3. I know the 1 amp gets the 2 browns and 2 yellows for the coils...same as original.
What do I hook up to the other 2, for lighting. Looks like they both have a line (1 blue, 1 black with white stripes) that runs back to power board. Then, I assume I just ground the other side to lamp sockets?
Anybody done this?
Thx

I thought about doing that since I had the 3 boards but I thought it would be too much work. I did however swap out the 555 sockets to bayonet 44 style. For me the 555 sockets at the time were not user friendly with LED lamps. I think also that the 81 and LE versions have different colors for all the controlled lamp wiring IIRC. Do you have the LE manual, it should tell how the fuse block is wired? I have one but it's in storage at the moment.

#1995 1 year ago

Thx for the reply...I just ordered the Limited manual. I literally matched the Limited wire for wire with my original, until I was only left with what looks like grounds to groups of light sockets, since much of the ground wire is removed when using the boards. I’ll see what the manual says.
Thx

#1996 1 year ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I thought about doing that since I had the 3 boards but I thought it would be too much work. I did however swap out the 555 sockets to bayonet 44 style. For me the 555 sockets at the time were not user friendly with LED lamps. I think also that the 81 and LE versions have different colors for all the controlled lamp wiring IIRC. Do you have the LE manual, it should tell how the fuse block is wired? I have one but it's in storage at the moment.

You can find it in its' entirety online.

#1997 1 year ago

I have a strange problem with the 2x and 4x multiplier on my EBD (1984 version).

When I hit the 2x, sometimes the LED under the playfield briefly lights the green 4x before switching to the 2x LED. Other times it lights up the 4x and doesn't switch to the 2x indicator. If I actually get to the point of hitting the 4x target, the LED doesn't advance to that (it stays on 3x), and no sound indicates that any change occurred.

The wiring doesn't look like there is any problem, but if I trace the wires back to the board is there a way to know whether they are connected to the appropriate socket? Is there a diagram that shows where each wire (2x and 4x) should be connected?

#1998 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

I have a strange problem with the 2x and 4x multiplier on my EBD (1984 version).
When I hit the 2x, sometimes the LED under the playfield briefly lights the green 4x before switching to the 2x LED. Other times it lights up the 4x and doesn't switch to the 2x indicator. If I actually get to the point of hitting the 4x target, the LED doesn't advance to that (it stays on 3x), and no sound indicates that any change occurred.
The wiring doesn't look like there is any problem, but if I trace the wires back to the board is there a way to know whether they are connected to the appropriate socket? Is there a diagram that shows where each wire (2x and 4x) should be connected?

See the red highlighted areas on the EBD Wiring Diagrams for the Playfield and Lamp Module below. Even if they look good visually, I'd recommend re-pinning them. The ones in the left most red box are the address lines and the ones on the right are the multiplier lights. And you can confirm that the wires are in the correct places on the connector by looking at what wire colors are in what pin location.
EBD Wire Color Code.jpgEBD Wiring Diagram.jpg

EBD Wiring Diagram (Lamp Module).jpg

#1999 1 year ago
Quoted from Mathazar:

See the red highlighted areas on the EBD Wiring Diagrams for the Playfield and Lamp Module below. Even if they look good visually, I'd recommend re-pinning them. The ones in the left most red box are the address lines and the ones on the right are the multiplier lights. And you can confirm that the wires are in the correct places on the connector by looking at what wire colors are in what pin location.
[quoted image][quoted image]
[quoted image]

I'm guess the lamp module is correct because in attract mode the lamps 2x, 3x, 4x, and 5x light up in the proper order. Is that a correct assumption?

I also have ALLTEK boards replacing some of the originals. Do those wiring diagrams still pertain to me?

Also, why on the wiring diagrams do they show 2 4x locations and not a 5x location--is that a typo?

20190302_110518 (resized).jpg
#2000 1 year ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

I'm guess the lamp module is correct because in attract mode the lamps 2x, 3x, 4x, and 5x light up in the proper order. Is that a correct assumption?
I also have ALLTEK boards replacing some of the originals. Do those wiring diagrams still pertain to me?
Also, why on the wiring diagrams do they show 2 4x locations and not a 5x location--is that a typo?
[quoted image]

yes the pin outs are the same for the Alltek driver. The 5x might be switched on the aux lamp driver.

Also you should check the leaf switches for adjustment. If the switch blades are too close, vibrations will cause the switch to close momentarily causing the 4x to light up. Or if it sticks, the 4x will stay lit and 2x will go out because the game thinks the 4x target was dropped. If that's not the issue then maybe the diode is on it's way out.

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