Does anyone know if the blue 3/4" inserts are available anywhere? I can't seem to find any plain/translucent ones. I can find the bigger 1" ones, but not the 3/4".

If I can't replace mine, then whatever..but there's glue slopped up under them and that keeps the light from fully illuminating them. Figured since I'm stalled on clearing anyway, might be a good opportunity to take another close look at any *other* inserts I don't like.

Good to know, thanks.

Yeah I was looking to only do one connector but it looks impossible. There was a great restoration thread by g94 a while back where the he did use several connectors. I’ll have to see if I can find it.

Edit found it. One of the best restorations on this entire forum. Scroll down to post #128.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/another-ebd-screaming-for-attention-g94/page/3

If I get the Seigecraft LED adapters, will that reduce the flickering? I already have the Alltek lamp driver and aux lamp driver boards, but still have some flickering (most obviously on the "chase" lights along the two outer lanes). I really don't want to start soldering individual resistors.

It's just the one connector for everything on the assembly. Disconnect it, undo 8 screws, and the whole thing pops out intact including the standup targets, leaf switches, and coils. Makes it very easy to just pull out and plop it on your bench if you need to replace a cap or something.

Here it is on my bench....

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Yeah, I'm sure I could undo a bit more, further down the loom in order to do the one connector. I probably should, really, but Meh.

Thanks again for those photos. That really helps. I guess the trick is going to be like KSUWildcatFan is saying. Have to go further down the wire loom. At first look on mine it looks impossible to do one connector.

Quench...I messaged you.

I think you are spot on.

Curious about the people installing these under playfield connectors - since you've owned the game, how many times has this been an issue of needing to remove the drop target assembly? Short of a one time playfield swap, or replacing a broken drop target, why are you doing this mod? Seems like a lot of work for what?

I can't imagine it's a frequent need...but someday it'll be necessary and I'll be thrilled to not have to pull the entire PF. Plus, they're causing me significant grief right now when I need to clear this thing and lay down the hardtop.

I'm going to just do the 4pin connectors rather than work down the loom. I don't feel like using a bunch of zip ties to redo that nasty dirty bundle of crap.

Side note, got inserts sanded to 500 last night (that's where I found I'm not thrilled with the blues) and got most of the shooter lane sanded down in prep for clear. This morning I threw down the hardtop to encourage myself to not light it on fire in my basement.

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Looking great!

I'm not thrilled with how a lot of the inserts feel but I don't *think* it's particularly problematic. They feel slightly....'bumpy' which is irritating. But less of removing each and every one of them, reseating and/or slightly sanding down the bottom and then regluing, I'm not sure what else to do. I guess my hope is that the cutout for the clear where the printed art has art+adhesive is enough to accommodate this.

To those who have actually successfully hardtopped their EBD: did you honestly get every single one of your inserts completely flat, to the point where you could run your hand across and feel nothing but a smooth surface?

It's actually not a whole lot of work, but I probably wouldn't do JUST this mod. It was convenient to do it at the time I was doing a hardtop install so they all came out anyway. And while they were out, I disassembled most of them and ran the metal bits thru an ultrasonic cleaner and tumbler before reassembling with new coil sleeves, drop targets (if the assembly was a drop target bank), springs, and coil stops. Since this particular machine is a total keeper for me and it's now in its forever home, I'll probably be doing similar level shop jobs on it every few years or so so why not spend 10 minutes on each assembly putting in a molex connector for future quick disconnects/reconnects. I probably wouldn't do this on a pin I'm going to sell in the near future.

Six months later, it's already paid dividends since I had an EBD hardtop failure and had to do a total replacement again.

Working on an EBD LE project. At one point all coils worked except the right flipper. I replaced the C26 and C23 caps on the SDB last night and put the board back in. I was measuring about 45vDC at all 3 lugs on the right flipper coil. I tried the "hold flipper button at start up" and the flipper fired and now works. BUT, none of the other coils are working - only the 3 flippers. I checked all fuses under the playfield, bottom of the cabinet, and on SDB and all tested good. What is going on with this possessed game? The game is in the garage and it's pretty cold outside - could this impact it? I just remembered I should have checked for power at the other coil lugs. Seems like it would be a fuse. The rectifier board assembly is pretty hacked up, should probably measure test points there too. Possibly a blown component there?

Also, I was checking ground between the ground braid in the head and to the boards. How are the boards on the back of the light board grounded if the metal planes they are secured to aren't touching? For example, I have no ground continuity from my sound board to the braid in the head.

It does sound like a blown fuse. Certainly check the fuses on the rectifier board, but there are also 3 fuses on the underside of the playfield that you should check. I don't know about the grounding issue.

I removed one end of the fuses - 3 under playfield by shooter lane and all rectifier board fuses. All test fine in continuity mode. Wondering if there is a broken wire somewhere that is disabling all coils? (excluding flippers).

Do the coils fire in test mode?

Only the 3 flippers and under-playfield relay fire during coil test.

Unfortunately, I am at work and don't have access to my schematics. You should be able to examine the schematic to see where the flipper coils get their power and how that differs from how the other solenoids do. That should give you a hint of where to look.

If you haven't found it by then, I can look into it this evening...

It splits at the input of the fuse on the playfield - unfused to the flippers, fused to the solenoids. Maybe the fuse holder is bad since the fuse tested good.

Yep, that seems like a big clue. I was pretty sure that those fuses under the playfield were involved, I just couldn't remember the details off hand.

It's possible. I tested the fuse out of the holder, then tested the ends of each wire soldered to the holder with the fuse back in and all 3 fuses and wire sets showed continuity. Not sure if that's the right way to test?

Speaking of coils and whatnot, I noticed my bank shot and 8ball drops aren't popping up on boot anymore, not that I'm particularly concerned about it *right now*. The main drop bank is working fine (although it's now hooooooooooooorribly out of adjustment with switches), but not the other two.

Oh well, molex arrives today so I can finally break them loose of the playfield.

I'll replace the fuse holder that has the brown and yellow wires - according to the schematics, that's the one for the solenoids? (60 and 30 wire colors)

coils (resized).PNG

I've had fuses pass continuity tests but still be bad. Stranger things happen out there.

Replaced fuse, no change. I’ll replace the fuse holder.

I also measured voltage at all the coils. Pops were low 30’s, and others were around 45. I think big drop resets were 59. I noticed There is no continuity on the power cord ground pin and the braid in cabinet. I need to replace the plug end. Looks questionable.

You also mentioned your power board is questionable. Have you tested the voltages coming off of the board? There are a few test points there that you can check.

I actually just ordered a replacement power board for my EBD-LE because mine has been hacked up over the years.

My EBD started having intermittent sound issues a couple months ago. Last week the sound went out completely. Reseating the connectors has had no effect, and when I was done doing that and powered the game back up, all I get is "8" on the 'ball in play' indicator with no other lights or sounds coming on and the machine not booting up.

Any suggestions?

Yeah, I’ll eventually need to replace. I am getting voltages at all coils, so think there is a wiring or possibly connector issue on SDB.

Suppose I should look and see if I screwed something up with those other drops while I'm at it

One down..two to go.

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Issue identified!

Wiggled the connectors on the right side of the SDB during coil test hoping coils would start firing, nothing. Turned the game off, then back on and all coils are now working during a game, so definitely need to replace the connectors. Bottom and right pop bumpers not working and quickly grounding their respective transistors on the SDB during attract mode, did nothing. With game off, both transistors tested fine in diode setting and the 2 coils were getting power. Checked under the playfield and found the wire that daisy connects the pop bumpers was broken off the coil lug on the left bumper. Soldered the wire back on and now all pop bumpers are working. Also replaced power cord end and ensured ground continuity from ground prong to braid in head, cabinet, and boards in backbox.

Only left to troubleshoot is none of my DELUXE letters on the playfield light up and none of the pop bumper bulbs light up.

Wow that’s a lot of connectors. That’s pretty much how I figured the 81 needs to be done. I’m not so sure I want to tackle that! Great job.

IME, the Seigecraft boards do a pretty good job, but I've had a few that still flicker. After getting them for a few games, I just decided to do the resistors. You wont need to do every socket, each game is different. Some will be more, some less. Resistors are super cheap.

The Alltek boards are supposed to eliminate the need for any LED solution, so I would be a bit disappointed.

I'm sure it could have been done differently but I figured this was the most direct and least complicated way.

It really wasn't all that bad to be honest. The only frustrating part for me was that I put a couple in backwards and had to bend tabs back and re-insert, which was annoying. That and my molex crimper never does a good job of crimping the jacket so I have to follow up with pliers to tighten that one spot.

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All done. These things are easy to adjust... once they're pulled loose from the playfield!

I think maybe now I'll mess with the pops/pop lighting so I can replace my bases with the new 3D printed ones from yfz450

I think I'll molex those also so that I can remove the entire assembly and adjust outside the game. Seems worth the effort.

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Yeah, I talked with the guy at Seigecraft and he said that that his adapters wouldn't help if I already have the Alltek boards. I am thinking that it may be a power issue as I have noticed that the flickering gets worse the longer that the machine is turned on. My power board is pretty hacked up, so it could easily be a part of the problem. I have a new power board arriving soon, and will give that a try.

I really don't want to start soldering individual resistors (as my soldering skills suck). The flickering is not really bad, just enough to be noticeable.

Soldering large components is easy just get your iron hot enough. Work hot and fast. You can do one in a minute or so.

But yeah, get your PS going first if you think that might be an issue.

Anybody?

Go back and double check any connectors that you re-seated. Possibly off by a pin. Most S&T sound problems are from the volume pots oxidizing and getting dirty. The original pots are exposed and this doesn't help. Also aging capacitors. If you are good at soldering, but a cap kit and 2 new volume pots. The new style has an enclosed case to keep dirt out.

But first you need to get the game to boot. If you know the sequence for the MPU LED, count the flashes and report here. At power up, observe the flicker and then should be 7 flashes.

Typo:
buy a cap kit

Here's what the game does when it is switched on...

POST is not completing. Check the LED on the MPU board, watch it after you turn on power, and count the flashes. Here's a guide for the MPU flashes:

http://techniek.flipperwinkel.nl/ballyss/rep/index2.htm#flash

Hi everyone, first time posting in this thread, I just finished swapping to a new CPR playfield, and have all new Alltek boards, MPU, Solenoid , Lamp/LED, and Aux/LED boards, and a new rectifier board beside the transformer. All of the test points on the rectifier board have the appropriate voltages, but the solenoid board LED's are not lit up for 12VDC, or 5VDC. Nothing is lit up on the MPU board. No displays are working , nor are any contolled lamps. GI lights are the only thing on. I am including a picture showing the backbox before changing all of the boards, and there are black and red jumper wires connected to the big blue Capacitor on the solenoid board. The Black is going to a single white/brown striped wire, and the red is going to an orange wire twisted together with a red/brown? striped wire, which run up close to the P3 connector.
Can anyone please help me determine the following,
A, what to do with these wires that I mentioned above, where do they connect to?
B, What else can I check as to why I don't have 12VDC and 5VDC on the solenoid board?

I have reseated everything a few times, on the boards, male/female disconnects, etc.
Thanks for the help! pictures are worth 1000 words, Thanks in advance!!

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Connectors, connectors, connectors. The weakest part of these old games is the connectors. EBD has IDC (insulation displacement connector). These are not as reliable as Molex and should be changed out to Molex. The game is not booting up, this is why no switched lamps or displays are coming on. You may see a small amber glow coming from the displays until game boots fully. The manual will be a great help as it contains the wiring schematics for the entire game. This was you can find the break(s) in the path to the solenoid driver. The Sol driver send the power to where it is needed, so if that doesn't get power, nothing will.

This site pinwiki.com, bally/stern section has everything you need to know.

Has anyone had trouble with the ball jumping over the saucer in the back behind the 8 ball? I finally got my EBDLE back together and that's one of the last issues I'm trying to sort out. Suggestions?

What is the shape of the clear plastics?

I think that's just the way it is. Every EBD I've played in the wild does that as does my own EBD. I'd say on mine, the ball flies past the saucer about 50% of the time. I treat it as a skill shot....the slower you shoot the ball up there, the higher the probability it'll land in the saucer for the bonus.

Both original parts as far as i can tell, but they don't appear broken at all. I've noticed in happen more frequently when a hard shot from the upper-left flipper goes up there, so i think I'm going to try to dial back the power on that flipper a bit by adjusting the EOS.

Good to know it's not uncommon on this game. Come to think of it, i had that happen occasionally on my Paragon a while back when i owned one.