Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

3 years ago


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There are 1352 posts in topic. You are on page 23 of 28.
#1101 4 months ago

Decided to go for a professional restore on my 81 EBD. I'm dropping it off next week. I'm replacing a few things that are beyond repair, like the playfield and plastics.

NOS cleared playfield
Reproduction plastics
Cabinet repaint with pimp stencils
Gatecrashers repro parts for EBD

Pics when I get it back.

#1102 4 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Whoa. Looks way better than an OG eight ball target if you ask me.

Thanks. You know, the more I look at it, the more I like it. Likely just leave it until the decal wears off. That should be a long time....

#1103 4 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

New High Score!!!

IMG_6127 (resized).JPG

Does you machine have incandescent or LED GI bulbs? Looks good!

1 week later
#1104 3 months ago

Is there any where in this game to get 12V DC for LED Strips? LE version and the flourescent is shot.

I can't find 12Vs. Although the schematics show 11.9V (5 unregulated). Not sure what that means.

#1105 3 months ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Is there any where in this game to get 12V DC for LED Strips? LE version and the flourescent is shot.
I can't find 12Vs. Although the schematics show 11.9V (5 unregulated). Not sure what that means.

If you're only using two strips I was able to use TP2 from the MPU I believe. However my strips were only drawing 6v maybe. Unsure as I got them custom made from Rock pinball.

#1106 3 months ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Does you machine have incandescent or LED GI bulbs? Looks good!

Everything is Incandescent except for 3 cool white LED in "game over", "ball in play", and "high score" in the backbox

#1107 3 months ago

Games like EBD simply look better with incandescent bulbs.

The only area I would consider placing LEDs would be in the pop caps and possibly some areas in then backbox..

#1108 3 months ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Games like EBD simply look better with incandescent bulbs.
The only area I would consider placing LEDs would be in the pop caps and possibly some areas in then backbox..

Comet clear retro warm white LEDs look fantastic under the inserts, and color match blue and red. I would keep incandescents in the playfield GI.

#1109 3 months ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Games like EBD simply look better with incandescent bulbs.

Yes and no. It's definitely opinion. Some cool retro bulbs out there look very nice.

The problem with the LE is the incandescent bulb. Much easier to just get rid of that poor design and go with LEDs.

#1110 3 months ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Unsure as I got them custom made from Rock pinball.

What do you mean custom made? Led strips are just cut the length you need and wire it in... what do you mean custom?

#1111 3 months ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Yes and no. It's definitely opinion. Some cool retro bulbs out there look very nice.
The problem with the LE is the incandescent bulb. Much easier to just get rid of that poor design and go with LEDs.

Yeah but then it doesn't look they way it is supposed to. For those of us purists who played these machines when they were new, LEDs look wrong. Younger pinball fans who weren't around back then are usually more open to mods like this.

#1112 3 months ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Yeah but then it doesn't look they way it is supposed to. For those of us purists who played these machines when they were new, LEDs look wrong. Younger pinball fans who weren't around back then are usually more open to mods like this.

For me, it is the warmth and "fade in & fade out" of incandescent bulbs that LED's are lacking. They just do not look right in the older pins.

#1113 3 months ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

What do you mean custom made? Led strips are just cut the length you need and wire it in... what do you mean custom?

He cut them to length perfectly and had them all connected already with plenty of slack and alligator clips to clip to the TP point on the board. I didn't know how to do any of that.

#1114 3 months ago

Ok, time to ask the experts...

First....I am no expert. I am the novice of novices.....that being said.....and reviewing just about everything on the website and going through the EBD manual, I have a problem that has stumped me. It is quite frustrating. I bought an EBD about 8 months ago. Was in a garage for a number of years. When delivered, the squawk and talk board was bad. Sent it out, was fixed. I installed it, everything was good. A couple of months later my upper left flipper started to activate at about 90 percent of the time. From there, it went down to 50 percent and then nothing. All I want to do is play the machine. Working endlessly on it is not my gig.

To date, I have been unable to get the upper left flipper to function.

From the diagrams in the manual, the upper left flipper is only activated when the left bottom end of stroke switch is open and the "dual" switch next to the first left end of stroke switch closes to power the upper flipper. The timing should be correct for all of this to function. I believe that this is correct. I can see the opening and closing happening when I have the playfield tilted up and the switch is depressed. During this test, the left bottom flipper always operates, so I know that the player control switch is ok. Diagram w-1192-28 in the manual show the set up.

I made sure that the contacts between all of the end of stroke switches are free of corrosion with fine grit sand paper.
I also made sure that there was no mechanical drag of the plunger going in and out of the coil.
(Yes, I know that some people want to change the type of flippers to earlier types of models.......those people can save their breath....I would throw the damn thing out before I go through those headaches. The flippers....as designed.....worked for 40 years. I see no reason to change the design now.) Everything looks fine there from the mechanical standpoint.
I then went to replace the coil. I thought that maybe the diodes were shot. When I did a quick test on my multimeter....one tested ok, the other did not.

After replacing the coil (my first time using a solder iron) ....guess what?.......no change.

Other symptoms.....
If I take the return spring off the upper flipper (so there is even less mechanical force on the flipper), when I depress the left flipper button, the rod will fire into the coil (about 10 percent of the time).

Anybody have any ideas? (Remember.......novice)

#1115 3 months ago

O'Boy. O.K. One can activate the top flipper ( checking it) by manually lifting
the bottom flipper and pressing the cabinet button.
1) Nothing happens?
a: check the wiring from top flipper to bottom flipper.
b: check primary voltage "brown wires" for continuity.
c: temp short contacts on the outside "make" E.O.S. switch.
d: temp short contacts on top flipper E.O.S.
e: check the wiring on top flipper coil ( are they connected to the right lugs?)
f: check the soldering, is it solid, cold, Etc, Etc, Etc.
g: post a mini video of your problem.
h: post sharp clear pictures of your problem area.
i: if all fails, call a good tech.

#1116 3 months ago

Thanks for the quick reply...

So when I manually "lift" the bottom flipper and depress the player control switch, nothing happens. Since the flipper is in the up position, you don't hear the closing of the contacts for that flipper. The upper flipper does not actuate at all..... But......
there seems to be power going to the coil for the upper flipper. I say this because when the flipper return spring is taken off, you can manually move the rod (plunger) into the coil and it holds in position when the flipper is constantly depressed. When you take your finger off the player control switch, the upper flipper coil is deenergized and the rod(plunger) comes out of the coil.

The picture, I believe, are pretty good below.

DSC00383 (resized).JPG

DSC00384 (resized).JPG

#1117 3 months ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

Thanks for the quick reply...
So when I manually "lift" the bottom flipper and depress the player control switch, nothing happens. Since the flipper is in the up position, you don't hear the closing of the contacts for that flipper. The upper flipper does not actuate at all..... But......
there seems to be power going to the coil for the upper flipper. I say this because when the flipper return spring is taken off, you can manually move the rod (plunger) into the coil and it holds in position when the flipper is constantly depressed. When you take your finger off the player control switch, the upper flipper coil is deenergized and the rod(plunger) comes out of the coil.
The picture, I believe, are pretty good below.

When the upper flipper gets stuck in the up position, can you then push it down easily by finger or is the flipper activated with the power on the coil? You're likely having a mechanical binding in the full up position.

I have a flipper that often gets stuck in the up position but it is a mechanical stuck, and therefore quickly gets unstuck with just a little bit of finger pressure. ( directly on the flipper)

The linear flippers on this game are horrible. The reason why other people have changed the flippers out to an older styles because they actually work better.

When I restored my machine I stuck with the original flipper design. But I am dreading that decision now.

#1118 3 months ago

My linears work perfect. If you rebuild them correctly they work fine.

Make sure the stop bracket and the bushing bracket isn't cocked or bent. There isn't a whole lot to them really. It looks like they were recently rebuilt but may need some tweaking if they bind up.

#1119 3 months ago

Kilmarnock1350,

Thanks for the reply. So the situation is that when I push the left flipper button, the upper left flipper will not actuate at all and go to the "up" position. When I put my finger on the plunger, (when I have another finger actuating the left flipper button and energizing the circuit) I can feel that the plunger vibrates (like it is trying to go into the coil) when the left flipper button is depressed. It just will not slide into the coil. If I tap it just a little, the plunger then goes into the coil but very slowly. The plunger stays engaged inside the coil for the entire time that the switch power is actuated. When the power is deactivated, it comes out no problem. If I have the spring return engaged, the spring return has far too much power and the plunger never actuates to the coil.

I guess, then, that I have the exact opposite problem of yours if I understand your problem. Yours gets stuck in the "up" position where it mechanically binds once the power is engaged. Mine will never get there in the first place. It never enters the coil. If I give it some help.....it will go in, but it just seems weak.

And yes, the spring is missing because I was trouble shooting the system to see if I can get ANY actuation at all.

#1120 3 months ago

Additionally, to answer your question, when I have the left flipper actuated and I have manually put the flipper in the "up" position (energized), the flipper cannot be moved by the finger. Once deenergized, the spring force takes over and the flipper falls back to rest.

#1121 3 months ago

Short across the EOS switch with alligator clips and see if you get the power stroke now.

#1122 3 months ago

Reflow your solder!!!! it is crap! you need a good contact!
Your iron is not hot enough. The Black-White needs resolder.
The Brown primary needs resolder. You need good solid soldered
on wires to the lugs.

#1123 3 months ago

It addition to re-soldering the poor connections I would check the lower left flipper. It has a stacked switch setup. Make sure that one set of contacts on the lower left flipper are N.C. "normally closed" like the other two flippers and the other set of contacts on the lower left flipper are N.O "normally open".

Post a picture of your lower left flipper mech like you did for the upper showing the position of the flipper bat in the up and down positions.

#1124 3 months ago

Gatecrasher,

Here are the pictures.....you can see the closure of the gaps and opening of the gaps in the pictures.

DSC00386 (resized).JPG

DSC00385 (resized).JPG

#1125 3 months ago

Troubles persist. When I tried to jumper the end of stroke switch for the bottom left flipper, I blew a fuse. (I jumpered to make sure that the stacked switch would close). I believe the fuse is F4 in the A2 power module at the bottom of the cabinet? Now I have no flipper control at all.

#1126 3 months ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

When I tried to jumper the end of stroke switch for the bottom left flipper, I blew a fuse.

I didn't mean for you to jumper the lower flipper. The upper flipper...the one you showed in the pics.

If you jumper the N/C EOS switch on the lower flipper it probably draws too much current when it tries to engage the upper flipper and blows the fuse.

You're getting power to the upper flipper because the hold coil will engage with a little help. There just isn't enough current for the power stroke. This can be caused by:

1. Bad coil, if the primary reads 3 ohms, it's good
2. Bad solder joints (as mentioned)
3. Bad EOS switch. Could be the N/C switch on the upper or the N/O switch on the lower. I thought from your pics the upper looked suspect.

#1127 3 months ago

Ok,

Where do I get this dumb fuses? Do I have to go to Marco and buy more fuses? I can 't find anything that has the exact amperage and voltage ratings.

Second....why would the coil be bad? I just replaced it. I think we can rule that one out. That should be low on the order of things to replace.

Third...why would the upper End of Stroke Switch look suspect? Looks brand new to me (at least far better than the EOS switches on the bottom flipper). Shiny...no corrosion.

#1128 3 months ago

Problem resolution,

Per dothedoo stating that the switch did not look correct, I redoubled my efforts on that alone. I reviewed the following youtube video as well.

» YouTube video

Per the video, they had a similar problem of a weak flipper although it is on a Williams machine with a totally different flipper system. The test that some of you requested that I perform, namely that I manually move the left upper flipper to the up position (manually) and then see if I could move the flipper "down" while the left flipper button was actuated resulted in me not being able to move the flipper at all. With that, the flipper is ok in "low power" mode. The flipper, therefore, is wired correctly but it is the high power mode that is what is at issue.

I then checked for corrosion on the contacts of the upper left flipper EOS switch and made sure that the contacts were, in fact, touching. I took sand paper and scrubbed the contacts, even though it appeared that I did not need to do that. I also "regapped" the switch to make sure that I had positive contact.

After it all, presto, the flipper works.

Many thanks to all of you who chimed in to help out. I have been on lots of sites where members try to help out others, but this site is particularly good. If any of you who helped out are in the Houston area, pm me and we can grab a beer. I hope my posts on this issue will help others who run across this issue as well.

Plaw

#1129 3 months ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

Yeah but then it doesn't look they way it is supposed to. For those of us purists who played these machines when they were new, LEDs look wrong. Younger pinball fans who weren't around back then are usually more open to mods like this.

I put some cool white LED in the backbox and it really washed out the art. I might try some warm white LED to see if I could reduce some game heat. But it would have to look exactly like original.

#1130 3 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I put some cool white LED in the backbox and it really washed out the art. I might try some warm white LED to see if I could reduce some game heat. But it would have to look exactly like original.

Comet's frosted WW comfort bright and WW frosted retro style bulbs are good for backbox areas that need less light.

#1131 3 months ago
Quoted from Blitzburgh99:

I put some cool white LED in the backbox and it really washed out the art. I might try some warm white LED to see if I could reduce some game heat. But it would have to look exactly like original.

Yeah you have to go warm white with this artwork for sure. Another option is the warm white faceted bulb with the flat top. Paint or mask the top to avoid spotting and help diffuse the light. I used some of these in Xenon and they worked great for spreading light evenly.

http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smd3528-ng.htm

#1132 3 months ago

https://pinside.com/pinball/market/classifieds/ad/46033

Have a working limited 8bd I need to pass to make room.

#1133 3 months ago

Hello -
I'm a new EBD owner. My machine needs more than a few things, but it is a solid base for a rebuild. Cabinet needs minor touch up, plastics and bumper tops are on order. My shortfalls are going to be a backglass and a new play field.
I saw that Bay Area just sold out of the backglass. Anyone know when the next batch will be made or if there is somewhere to get on a list?
Thanks in advance for any help...

#1134 3 months ago
Quoted from Patentlaw:

Ok,
Where do I get this dumb fuses? Do I have to go to Marco and buy more fuses? I can 't find anything that has the exact amperage and voltage ratings.
Second....why would the coil be bad? I just replaced it. I think we can rule that one out. That should be low on the order of things to replace.
Third...why would the upper End of Stroke Switch look suspect? Looks brand new to me (at least far better than the EOS switches on the bottom flipper). Shiny...no corrosion.

Don't order online unless you just can't find it. Hardware stores carry most of these fuses in the section where the little parts bins are. Near the screws/bolts, where the "parts" section is. Almost all have some sort of fuses. Do however look out and get the correct rating. Don't cheat or you'll cause yourself more headaches.

#1135 3 months ago
Quoted from Hiram:

Hello -
I'm a new EBD owner. My machine needs more than a few things, but it is a solid base for a rebuild. Cabinet needs minor touch up, plastics and bumper tops are on order. My shortfalls are going to be a backglass and a new play field.
I saw that Bay Area just sold out of the backglass. Anyone know when the next batch will be made or if there is somewhere to get on a list?
Thanks in advance for any help...

CPR is currently making a limited number of EBD playfields and they say there will be more plastics sets to go along with them. I haven't heard if they plan to make any more backglasses but I wouldn't be surprised if they did.

#1136 3 months ago
Quoted from kilmarnock1350:

Don't order online unless you just can't find it. Hardware stores carry most of these fuses in the section where the little parts bins are. Near the screws/bolts, where the "parts" section is. Almost all have some sort of fuses. Do however look out and get the correct rating. Don't cheat or you'll cause yourself more headaches.

I don't think you'll find all of the fuses in hardware stores. At least none of the ones I shop at seem to have a super selection. Some of the more common ones they will have.

Even Radio Shack never seems to have them all.

Just about every town of any size has at least one electrical supply store though. They usually have all of them in stock and if they don't can get them. Most industrial supply stores have a good selection too but you can get all of them online (and usually for a better price).

Shop around. Big Daddy carries them all.

#1137 3 months ago
Quoted from Hiram:

Thanks in advance for any help...

My $50 "back glass."

IMG_4224 (resized).JPG

#1138 3 months ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

My $50 "back glass."

nice wish I could find a deal like that ..

#1139 3 months ago
Quoted from trimoto:

nice wish I could find a deal like that ..

Its a print that I sandwiched between two pieces of plexi. It will never break and doesn't look too awful bad.

Shawn

IMG_4815 (resized).JPG

IMG_6874 (resized).JPG

IMG_5093 (resized).JPG

#1140 3 months ago
Quoted from Hiram:

My shortfalls are going to be a backglass and a new play field.
I saw that Bay Area just sold out of the backglass.

Shay Group produced a run of the original 1981 EBD backglasses that were released in DEC 2016.

Check to see if there are still some left in stock.
They were not posted on the website during updates or well advertised when he finished GTB Spiderman at the same time.

#1141 3 months ago

Hi guys,

I had an amazing opportunity to get an Eight Ball Deluxe, so here it is : https://goo.gl/photos/Sn3bqXA4Ydp7GgBe6

I'm a John Snow in terms of SS restoration: I know nothing. Almost. So I may need some advices

Almost everything works here, few light bulbs and some rubbers need to be replaced, the playfield has some wear but nothing too bad, it's now clean and will be waxed soon. I've cleaned the dust everywhere (cabinet & backbox) with an air compressor outside and checked every connections. The coin door was hacked and I must pull a little lever in the bottom to get some credits.

Two obvious things to fix :

- When I start a game, before shooting the ball, if I hit the flippers it will increment the score by 3.000 points... Weird. And annoying.

- The sound. I hear the voice loud and clear but the scoring sound effect is very low, and I don't seem to hear all the sounds I can hear in the youtube videos. For example in this one : » YouTube video

there are laser-like and sirens-like sound that I don't have. Is this some switch to move on the sound board ? the ROM ?

Also I've read the battery can be a major problem, should I change it straight?

Thanks guys

IMG_3946 (resized).jpg
IMG_3947 (resized).jpg
IMG_3948 (resized).jpg

#1142 3 months ago

I have put my Eight Ball Deluxe and NASCAR at Crown Billiards in San Ramon, CA!

IMG_2958 (resized).JPG

#1143 3 months ago

Hey Manples,
Change batteries immediately and mar k the date next to them...
The background sound can be adjusted. There are 2 pots on the sound board; one for for speech, one for background sounds. Use a small tweaker screw driver to play around till its right. The over all volume control should be on the coin door.
Welcome to the club!

#1144 3 months ago

Oh and that "siren sound" happens when winning a free game. In the video you posted, the guy wins a game 30 seconds into his first ball, so his credit thresholds are all wrong. Check the manual and follow the instructions on how to set up the game's preferences to your liking. If you don't have the book you can find it online.

#1145 3 months ago

For that weird scoring with the flipper, check the switches under the playfield that have a capacitor across the contacts. If they look original they will be dried out and will cause plenty of strange behaviour. If you get any bumpers or slings activating with the flippers there are more involved things you have to do to fix that but only if its a real issue.

#1146 3 months ago

Thanks tominator and BJ-Maxx,
I'll change the battery, check the manual for the sound and check the switches under the playfield. I'll keep you posted.
This game is great.

#1147 3 months ago

Got a bit further along on my EBD. Still need to service the drops, but they are playable at the moment. Bought the repro bumper caps to replace my glued ones but the pinstripes are closer together making the artwork look a bit darker. I have the cliffy return lanes but they did not work out for me... too close to the flippers to allow movement so I kept my original plastic for now. Some of my favorite bits are the small things like the replacement shooter lane cover. Plastics look much better after flattening with a heat gun.

Here's a pic of the alternate colors I had in mind, and what I ended choosing. LEDs I am using warm white for GI, warm white for clear, red and yellow inserts, cool white for blue and green inserts, pink for orange inserts and pop bumpers.

EBD1 (resized).jpg
EBD2 (resized).jpg
EBD3 (resized).jpg
EBD (resized).jpg

#1148 3 months ago

Ok the cat made me laugh. Didn't expect that.

#1149 3 months ago

Looks nice except for the Steelers posts and rubbers. Yuck. Haha

#1150 3 months ago
Quoted from Gatecrasher:

My linears work perfect. If you rebuild them correctly they work fine.
Make sure the stop bracket and the bushing bracket isn't cocked or bent. There isn't a whole lot to them really. It looks like they were recently rebuilt but may need some tweaking if they bind up.

I agree 100%. Games originally designed to be linear should stay linear. It absolutely impacts game play, especially tap passes which are a key strategy on these early Bally titles. If your linear flippers are not playing right they just need to be fixed not replaced.

-Jay

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