2.6 ohms both ways

Unless there's been a major failure, these voltages aren't right.

2.6 ohms or 2.6 volts?
Please post a picture of your multi-meter so we can advise how to set it.

You want me to test the voltage across the resistor with the game on? If so it's its 97.6V with the ground on the right. Reversed it's 0

I had some damaged diodes, resistors and a burnt out transistor that I've now replaced

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You can only measure voltage when the game's on

Set your multi-meter to the 200V DC scale. This sets the meter to read any voltage between zero volts and 200 volts.
The resistance/ohms scales are only to be used to measure resistance and must be done when there's NO power.

You need to put the black meter lead on ground somewhere - TP4 on the MPU board is a ground point.
The red meter lead is then placed on the left leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 43 volts.
Then place the red meter lead on the right leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 21.5 volts.

Left of r113 is 100V and right 0 so we got a problem. Lol

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Yeah I know hehe

You've got the meter set to 200V AC voltage, you need to rotate it around to the 200V DC voltage scale. See the picture below:

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Isn't DC for batteries and AC for things plugged in the wall? Ok, I'll switch it.

Left side 44V right 0

I have a little bit of fear that working inside machines that use voltages that may at least really hurt you might not be a really good idea.

You are really sure what you are doing and how to protect yourself from being hurt?

That makes resistor R113 suspect as being open circuit. They fail from fatigue because the power they dissipate is borderline on its maximum power rating. Replace it and its sister at R16 with 2k ohm, 0.5 watt resistors. Replace the two of them.

Yes and no. Long story short, AC from the wall is going into the game but the game uses diode rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.

120V won't kill you, it will however get your attention lol

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Ok cool. I'll do that today. Thanks alot. I'll keep you posted. Cheers

I really like you since you own EBD and Future Spa and have Xenon on your wishlist - you must be a good boy. So I just don't want that you get hurt.

Thank you. I appreciate it.

R113 and R16 resistors were blown. I got game play now. No sound and no display but one step closer. Lol

R113 and R16 resistors were blown. I got game play now. No sound and no display but one step closer. Lol

It's time to open up a tech support thread for your specific issues.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-early-80s-solid-state

Agreed. I got a few things to check then I'll do that. Tks

I'm restoring an EBD. I'm at the point I'm about to repaint the cabinet. I have the lockdown bar receiver removed. I haven't been able to get the bolt that the receiver lever hinges on out of the cabinet. It is the bolt that goes through the cabinet just above the top right of the coin door. I've tapped it with a plastic tipped hammer, wiggled on it and tried to twist it. All being firm but gentle as trying to avoid breakage or damage. Can't get it to budge. Is there a trick to getting this out?

I place the nut back on the bolt to avoid damaging the threads and tap them out just enough so I can grab the head and unscrew it from the cab. You may need to pull outward while turning. I have yet to damage a cab by tapping the bolt out. Jeff Warrick has nice stainless steel replacement bolts and washers if you want a new one. He's @gatecrasher.

I ended up hitting the bolt fairly hard. So hard I was afraid I was about to break the wood or bolt. To get it out I used a gear puller to press it out. I thought maybe there was some sort of lock in there it was so tight which is why I asked.. Man I've never seen a bolt through just wood stuck so tight.

New to EBD. Most pins of this vintage have a lane change from right and/or left flipper. Mine doesn't have this. Should I expect a lane change in A-B-C-D when hitting the flipper button?

Eight Ball Deluxe doesn't have lane change. Players are required to have skill! (plus some luck)

For anyone who has replaced the security plate under the game (that keeps people from cutting through the bottom to get the cash box). What air nailer and nails did you use?

Want to know what has the oomph to pierce the metal, 1/4 birch bottom then the 3/4 birch through the end grain without having nails stick out.

Thanks

Awesome, thank you!

New EBD owner here!

Bought from online auction, knew it was pretty much gonna be a total restore going in. Waiting for another CPR pf run, dont think I want to go the hardtop route. Really looking forward to tearing into this one ~

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It may be your lucky day then--i was on their site recently and noticed they have EBD in stock (at least according to their site): https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/ebd-playfield/

Dam! She's been sitting for awhile. Just add a rubber ring set and you should be good to go. Good luck on the restore. Well worth it on this title

Congrats. I have restored 3 of the bad boys and have 3 more to do. I'll be following.

These bad boys...

So tempting. I've got a Centuar II and a Joker Poker both in line for pf swaps. My EBDLE has a decent playfield, but a fresh new pf is hard to say no to...

Got a couple of EBD questions for you folks.

What is the difference if any between the backglass for an '81 and a '84 EBD. Not LE.

Can you switch a fully populated and wired playfield from a '81 to an '84 and vice versa?

Thanks,

Alan

OK, I've since learned that the '84 swing out glass is slightly smaller than the '81 lift out model. Not interchangeable.

Still looking to fi9nd out about the playfields.

They are very close but not totally plug and play. I think some wire colors were changed as well. It can be done with some wiring changes but I'm not sure which. From what I remember, it was too complicated.

typo: wasn't too complicated...

Besides the changes on size, people say the guy has changed his face expression. So you have a 81 "not so nice guy" and a 84 "nice guy version". I do not see the difference, but I have only the 81 version and never seen both in one place side by side - can comebody who did so confirm this difference?

Aaaah! Now I see

It's not about the guy on the backglass, it's the guy on the side of the Backbox that is different

So, forget about what I said before, no difference on the backglass guy.

On an '81 EBD, I know that the green lamp sockets are crappy, but the sockets on mine are white. Are they just as crappy or better quality?

The 555 sockets that seem 'flimsy' are the bad ones. Since you have to bend them to change bulbs, they snap at the bend point. I wouldn't hesitate to replace these with 44 sockets (or yoppsicles, if they fit), or if someone makes a replacement board with twist sockets.

The internal 'ears' that grip the bulb can be an issue as well.

Regardless of which type you have, if they are working no need to replace. If you're looking to install LED's though I'd change to the other options (yoppsicles or 44)

I happened to look on there a couple days ago before seeing this post and ordered a new playfield, backglass and plastics set. Thank you!

Backglass and plastics are listed in the "backglasses for sale" thread if anyone needs them, plenty of pics. Backglass is starting to flake in 2 spots, one of them down at the bottom, still very presentable, same with the plastics. If I was just hardtopping it I'd have kept both, but I think this one will be here a long time and wanted to go all out.

Squawk & talk question: My sound is flaking out, lot of wrong sounds playing at the wrong times. I have new caps to rebuild the board on the way, and new roms that just arrived, I expect between these things that it will get fixed.

The roms I received have U3, U4, U5. My squawk and talk board has roms U3, U4, U5, AND U6. Can anyone tell me what U6 is for? Not sure if what I received is missing one, or if U3-U5 are an updated set that replaces U3-U6 and I should remove U6 from my board, or if U6 is a rom for something else entirely.

I don't think u6 was used. I'll check when I get home.

thanks, I suppose another possibility is that the socket should be empty and someone put in a rom that just isn't used. I do see that the roms available on ipdb are U2, U6 for the MPU, and U3, U4, U5 for sound. Maybe someone stuck an MPU rom in the sound board at some point, for who knows what reason.

Roms are U3-U5. U6 is not a rom location

U6 is a ram chip. Dont remove it.

I don’t think the caps or roms are the problem.

Could also be PIA, but the caps are already really old, and in swapping boards with Flash Gordon to isolate problems, I found the roms were so old and decrepit that one lost a leg just pulling from socket. So recap and resocket/rom are easy things that won't hurt. If that doesn't do it, then I'll mount sockets and replace the 6808 / 6821 / whatever the PIA is.

Bally 1st generation #555 lamp sockets are white. 2nd generations are green.
2nd generation came into use about 1982/1983.