(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well

By Hellfire

8 years ago


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  • Latest reply 3 days ago by Mathazar
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There are 4361 posts in this topic. You are on page 87 of 88.
#4301 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Find resistor R113 on the MPU board (bottom left corner) next to the J4 connector.
Carefully measure the voltage on both the left and right legs of that resistor.
Report back with the measurements.

2.6 ohms both ways

#4302 42 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

U14 pin 14 = 0
U14 pin 15 = 10.3
U14 pin 10 = 0
U14 pin 4 = 10.3
U10 pin 18 = 10.3V

Unless there's been a major failure, these voltages aren't right.

Quoted from DreB:

2.6 ohms both ways

2.6 ohms or 2.6 volts?
Please post a picture of your multi-meter so we can advise how to set it.

#4303 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Unless there's been a major failure, these voltages aren't right.

2.6 ohms or 2.6 volts?
Please post a picture of your multi-meter so we can advise how to set it.

You want me to test the voltage across the resistor with the game on? If so it's its 97.6V with the ground on the right. Reversed it's 0

#4304 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Unless there's been a major failure, these voltages aren't right.

I had some damaged diodes, resistors and a burnt out transistor that I've now replaced

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#4305 42 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

You want me to test the voltage across the resistor with the game on? If so it's its 97.6V with the ground on the right. Reversed it's 0

You can only measure voltage when the game's on

Set your multi-meter to the 200V DC scale. This sets the meter to read any voltage between zero volts and 200 volts.
The resistance/ohms scales are only to be used to measure resistance and must be done when there's NO power.

You need to put the black meter lead on ground somewhere - TP4 on the MPU board is a ground point.
The red meter lead is then placed on the left leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 43 volts.
Then place the red meter lead on the right leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 21.5 volts.

#4306 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You can only measure voltage when the game's on
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Set your multi-meter to the 200V DC scale. This sets the meter to read any voltage between zero volts and 200 volts.
The resistance/ohms scales are only to be used to measure resistance when there is NO power.
You need to put the black meter lead on ground somewhere - TP4 on the MPU board is a ground point.
The red meter lead is then placed on the left leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 43 volts.
Then place the red meter lead on the right leg of R113. The voltage reading should be in the vicinity of 21.5 volts.

Left of r113 is 100V and right 0 so we got a problem. Lol

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#4307 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You can only measure voltage when the game's on

Yeah I know hehe

#4308 42 days ago

You've got the meter set to 200V AC voltage, you need to rotate it around to the 200V DC voltage scale. See the picture below:

Multi-Meter.jpg

#4309 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You've got the meter set to 200V AC voltage, you need to rotate it around to the 200V DC voltage scale. See the picture below:
[quoted image]

Isn't DC for batteries and AC for things plugged in the wall? Ok, I'll switch it.

#4310 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

You've got the meter set to 200V AC voltage, you need to rotate it around to the 200V DC voltage scale. See the picture below:
[quoted image]

Left side 44V right 0

#4311 42 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

Isn't DC for batteries and AC for things plugged in the wall?

I have a little bit of fear that working inside machines that use voltages that may at least really hurt you might not be a really good idea.

You are really sure what you are doing and how to protect yourself from being hurt?

#4312 42 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

Left side 44V right 0

That makes resistor R113 suspect as being open circuit. They fail from fatigue because the power they dissipate is borderline on its maximum power rating. Replace it and its sister at R16 with 2k ohm, 0.5 watt resistors. Replace the two of them.

Quoted from DreB:

Isn't DC for batteries and AC for things plugged in the wall? Ok, I'll switch it.

Yes and no. Long story short, AC from the wall is going into the game but the game uses diode rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.

#4313 42 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

I have a little bit of fear that working inside machines that use voltages that may at least really hurt you might not be a really good idea.
You are really sure what you are doing and how to protect yourself from being hurt?

120V won't kill you, it will however get your attention lol

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#4314 42 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

That confirms R113 is open circuit. They fail from fatigue because the power through it is borderline on its maximum power dissipation rating. Replace it and its sister at R6 with 2k ohm, 0.5 watt resistors

Yes and no. Long story short, AC from the wall is going into the game but the game uses diode rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.

Ok cool. I'll do that today. Thanks alot. I'll keep you posted. Cheers

#4315 42 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

120V won't kill you, it will however get your attention lol

I really like you since you own EBD and Future Spa and have Xenon on your wishlist - you must be a good boy. So I just don't want that you get hurt.

#4316 42 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

I really like you since you own EBD and Future Spa and have Xenon on your wishlist - you must be a good boy. So I just don't want that you get hurt.

Thank you. I appreciate it.

#4317 42 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

Ok cool. I'll do that today. Thanks alot. I'll keep you posted. Cheers

R113 and R16 resistors were blown. I got game play now. No sound and no display but one step closer. Lol

#4318 41 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

That makes resistor R113 suspect as being open circuit. They fail from fatigue because the power they dissipate is borderline on its maximum power rating. Replace it and its sister at R16 with 2k ohm, 0.5 watt resistors. Replace the two of them.

Yes and no. Long story short, AC from the wall is going into the game but the game uses diode rectifiers to convert the AC to DC.

R113 and R16 resistors were blown. I got game play now. No sound and no display but one step closer. Lol

#4319 41 days ago
Quoted from DreB:

R113 and R16 resistors were blown. I got game play now. No sound and no display but one step closer. Lol

It's time to open up a tech support thread for your specific issues.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-early-80s-solid-state

#4320 41 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

It's time to open up a tech support thread for your specific issues.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/forum/tech-early-80s-solid-state

Agreed. I got a few things to check then I'll do that. Tks

1 week later
#4321 28 days ago

I'm restoring an EBD. I'm at the point I'm about to repaint the cabinet. I have the lockdown bar receiver removed. I haven't been able to get the bolt that the receiver lever hinges on out of the cabinet. It is the bolt that goes through the cabinet just above the top right of the coin door. I've tapped it with a plastic tipped hammer, wiggled on it and tried to twist it. All being firm but gentle as trying to avoid breakage or damage. Can't get it to budge. Is there a trick to getting this out?

#4322 28 days ago

I place the nut back on the bolt to avoid damaging the threads and tap them out just enough so I can grab the head and unscrew it from the cab. You may need to pull outward while turning. I have yet to damage a cab by tapping the bolt out. Jeff Warrick has nice stainless steel replacement bolts and washers if you want a new one. He's Gatecrasher.

#4323 27 days ago

I ended up hitting the bolt fairly hard. So hard I was afraid I was about to break the wood or bolt. To get it out I used a gear puller to press it out. I thought maybe there was some sort of lock in there it was so tight which is why I asked.. Man I've never seen a bolt through just wood stuck so tight.

#4324 26 days ago

New to EBD. Most pins of this vintage have a lane change from right and/or left flipper. Mine doesn't have this. Should I expect a lane change in A-B-C-D when hitting the flipper button?

#4325 26 days ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

New to EBD. Most pins of this vintage have a lane change from right and/or left flipper. Mine doesn't have this. Should I expect a lane change in A-B-C-D when hitting the flipper button?

Eight Ball Deluxe doesn't have lane change. Players are required to have skill! (plus some luck)

#4326 26 days ago

For anyone who has replaced the security plate under the game (that keeps people from cutting through the bottom to get the cash box). What air nailer and nails did you use?

Want to know what has the oomph to pierce the metal, 1/4 birch bottom then the 3/4 birch through the end grain without having nails stick out.

Thanks

#4327 26 days ago
Quoted from Quench:

Eight Ball Deluxe doesn't have lane change. Players are required to have skill! (plus some luck)

Awesome, thank you!

#4328 23 days ago

New EBD owner here!

Bought from online auction, knew it was pretty much gonna be a total restore going in. Waiting for another CPR pf run, dont think I want to go the hardtop route. Really looking forward to tearing into this one ~

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#4329 23 days ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

Waiting for another CPR pf run, dont think I want to go the hardtop route.

It may be your lucky day then--i was on their site recently and noticed they have EBD in stock (at least according to their site): https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/ebd-playfield/

#4330 23 days ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

New EBD owner here!
Bought from online auction, knew it was pretty much gonna be a total restore going in. Waiting for another CPR pf run, dont think I want to go the hardtop route. Really looking forward to tearing into this one ~
[quoted image][quoted image]

Dam! She's been sitting for awhile. Just add a rubber ring set and you should be good to go. Good luck on the restore. Well worth it on this title

#4331 23 days ago
Quoted from pinzrfun:

New EBD owner here!
Bought from online auction, knew it was pretty much gonna be a total restore going in. Waiting for another CPR pf run, dont think I want to go the hardtop route. Really looking forward to tearing into this one ~
[quoted image][quoted image]

Congrats. I have restored 3 of the bad boys and have 3 more to do. I'll be following.

#4332 23 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

Congrats. I have restored 3 of the bad boys and have 3 more to do. I'll be following.

These bad boys...

#4333 23 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

It may be your lucky day then--i was on their site recently and noticed they have EBD in stock (at least according to their site): https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/ebd-playfield/

So tempting. I've got a Centuar II and a Joker Poker both in line for pf swaps. My EBDLE has a decent playfield, but a fresh new pf is hard to say no to...

#4334 22 days ago

Got a couple of EBD questions for you folks.

What is the difference if any between the backglass for an '81 and a '84 EBD. Not LE.

Can you switch a fully populated and wired playfield from a '81 to an '84 and vice versa?

Thanks,

Alan

#4335 22 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

What is the difference if any between the backglass for an '81 and a '84 EBD. Not LE.

OK, I've since learned that the '84 swing out glass is slightly smaller than the '81 lift out model. Not interchangeable.

Still looking to fi9nd out about the playfields.

#4336 22 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

OK, I've since learned that the '84 swing out glass is slightly smaller than the '81 lift out model. Not interchangeable.
Still looking to fi9nd out about the playfields.

They are very close but not totally plug and play. I think some wire colors were changed as well. It can be done with some wiring changes but I'm not sure which. From what I remember, it was too complicated.

#4337 22 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

They are very close but not totally plug and play. I think some wire colors were changed as well. It can be done with some wiring changes but I'm not sure which. From what I remember, it was too complicated.

typo: wasn't too complicated...

#4338 21 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

What is the difference if any between the backglass for an '81 and a '84 EBD. Not LE.

Besides the changes on size, people say the guy has changed his face expression. So you have a 81 "not so nice guy" and a 84 "nice guy version". I do not see the difference, but I have only the 81 version and never seen both in one place side by side - can comebody who did so confirm this difference?

#4339 21 days ago
Quoted from Thunfisch:

I do not see the difference

Aaaah! Now I see

It's not about the guy on the backglass, it's the guy on the side of the Backbox that is different

So, forget about what I said before, no difference on the backglass guy.

#4340 18 days ago

On an '81 EBD, I know that the green lamp sockets are crappy, but the sockets on mine are white. Are they just as crappy or better quality?

#4341 18 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

On an '81 EBD, I know that the green lamp sockets are crappy, but the sockets on mine are white. Are they just as crappy or better quality?

The 555 sockets that seem 'flimsy' are the bad ones. Since you have to bend them to change bulbs, they snap at the bend point. I wouldn't hesitate to replace these with 44 sockets (or yoppsicles, if they fit), or if someone makes a replacement board with twist sockets.

The internal 'ears' that grip the bulb can be an issue as well.

Regardless of which type you have, if they are working no need to replace. If you're looking to install LED's though I'd change to the other options (yoppsicles or 44)

#4342 14 days ago
Quoted from frunch:

It may be your lucky day then--i was on their site recently and noticed they have EBD in stock (at least according to their site): https://classicplayfields.com/shop/pinball-playfields/ebd-playfield/

I happened to look on there a couple days ago before seeing this post and ordered a new playfield, backglass and plastics set. Thank you!

Backglass and plastics are listed in the "backglasses for sale" thread if anyone needs them, plenty of pics. Backglass is starting to flake in 2 spots, one of them down at the bottom, still very presentable, same with the plastics. If I was just hardtopping it I'd have kept both, but I think this one will be here a long time and wanted to go all out.

#4343 9 days ago

Squawk & talk question: My sound is flaking out, lot of wrong sounds playing at the wrong times. I have new caps to rebuild the board on the way, and new roms that just arrived, I expect between these things that it will get fixed.

The roms I received have U3, U4, U5. My squawk and talk board has roms U3, U4, U5, AND U6. Can anyone tell me what U6 is for? Not sure if what I received is missing one, or if U3-U5 are an updated set that replaces U3-U6 and I should remove U6 from my board, or if U6 is a rom for something else entirely.

#4344 9 days ago
Quoted from EvanDickson:

Squawk & talk question: My sound is flaking out, lot of wrong sounds playing at the wrong times. I have new caps to rebuild the board on the way, and new roms that just arrived, I expect between these things that it will get fixed.
The roms I received have U3, U4, U5. My squawk and talk board has roms U3, U4, U5, AND U6. Can anyone tell me what U6 is for? Not sure if what I received is missing one, or if U3-U5 are an updated set that replaces U3-U6 and I should remove U6 from my board, or if U6 is a rom for something else entirely.

I don't think u6 was used. I'll check when I get home.

#4345 9 days ago
Quoted from Lovef2k:

I don't think u6 was used. I'll check when I get home.

thanks, I suppose another possibility is that the socket should be empty and someone put in a rom that just isn't used. I do see that the roms available on ipdb are U2, U6 for the MPU, and U3, U4, U5 for sound. Maybe someone stuck an MPU rom in the sound board at some point, for who knows what reason.

#4346 9 days ago

Roms are U3-U5. U6 is not a rom location

#4347 9 days ago

U6 is a ram chip. Dont remove it.

#4348 9 days ago

I don’t think the caps or roms are the problem.

#4349 9 days ago
Quoted from jj44114:

I don’t think the caps or roms are the problem.

Could also be PIA, but the caps are already really old, and in swapping boards with Flash Gordon to isolate problems, I found the roms were so old and decrepit that one lost a leg just pulling from socket. So recap and resocket/rom are easy things that won't hurt. If that doesn't do it, then I'll mount sockets and replace the 6808 / 6821 / whatever the PIA is.

#4350 7 days ago
Quoted from Alan_L:

On an '81 EBD, I know that the green lamp sockets are crappy, but the sockets on mine are white. Are they just as crappy or better quality?

Bally 1st generation #555 lamp sockets are white. 2nd generations are green.
2nd generation came into use about 1982/1983.

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