(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

6 years ago



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#151 5 years ago
Quoted from dothedoo:

A pic is worth a thousand words.

Flow a little solder onto those header joints and then suck it out and make new joints with fresh solder.
AMI chips look like this (different part number though):

crackedsolder.jpg 35 KB

AMI PIA.JPG 154 KB

Thanks. I'll get to work.

#152 5 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

I bought an LE last year and am looking for the right parts to completely repair the pop bumpers. I browsed through this thread and didn't see anything on this. Anybody have any links to suppliers or guides? Thanks

Go with PBR, they should have all the stuff you need. These are easier to rebuild than the pops from a year earlier. They come out in one piece.

#154 5 years ago
Quoted from Mk1Mod0:

ebay.com link ยป Bally Eight Ball Deluxe Pop Bumper Kit

actualy thats just a few of the parts needed usualy there are broken parts on the bottom side it should get new spring and board with bracket as well, among a few other things

#156 5 years ago

You guys are great that is what I needed. So if I buy the ebay kit, springs and bracket should I also get new switches and solinoids?

#157 5 years ago

Previous member of the club, and looking to rejoin. Anyone in the Midwest selling?

#158 5 years ago
Quoted from Farmboss:

You guys are great that is what I needed. So if I buy the ebay kit, springs and bracket should I also get new switches and solinoids?

Personal choice. The switches can be cleaned up and should work as good as new. If the coils work there is no need to replace them, you will not gain anything using new. However, it's good to have one or two spares if you don't already. Common coil used in all Ballys of the era for pops and slings. Just be sure to order new coil sleeves if you reuse your coils.

#159 5 years ago

Anyone figure out the best pitch (incline angle) to set up an 8bd at?

#160 5 years ago
Quoted from leaffan67:

Anyone figure out the best pitch (incline angle) to set up an 8bd at?

I haven't played mine enough yet to know, but I tend to set all mine as steep as possible to make them as hard as possible.

#161 5 years ago

8bd is tough at any angle I would say! I am looking for someone who has experimented and has decided that the game "plays perfectly" at a certain pitch.
I think modern Sterns are designed to be played at about 6.5 degrees. Did this apply to the games in 1980? my feeling is that they were designed to be a little flatter than that.

#162 5 years ago
Quoted from leaffan67:

8bd is tough at any angle I would say! I am looking for someone who has experimented and has decided that the game "plays perfectly" at a certain pitch.
I think modern Sterns are designed to be played at about 6.5 degrees. Did this apply to the games in 1980? my feeling is that they were designed to be a little flatter than that.

Yeah I think the early SS games are definitely at a more shallow pitch. I'd be interested to hear ideas as the best pitch for this game too.

#163 5 years ago

Early SS games were typically set up 5.5-6.0 degrees. Unfortunately, I haven't experimented with EBD so I can't give you an answer on best pitch.

As far as making games harder, every game is different. Meteor, for example, is a game where you want the pitch as high as possible while still feeling like you're playing pinball, not pachinko. EBD and Meteor both have lots of acute angles, with respect to vertical ball movement, so higher pitch makes these games harder. But higher pitch does not always equate to a harder game. Some games have more obtuse angles and a higher pitch reduces the amount of bounce or even alters the trajectory of the ball causing the game to be more predictable, maybe even more controllable. You really just have to experiment to find your best playing experience.

#164 5 years ago

I always had mine setup at about 6.0 degrees, and thought it played about perfect. Tried it at 6.5 too and IMO didn't alter it too much. Made it just a little harder if at all.

#165 5 years ago

Anyone know where I can get part #ASE-2250-27 (Ball Gate). It is the gate on the left rollover lane at the top. I do not have the wire door for the gate that makes it a one way lane.

I checked with PBR and they don't have it. Also looked on Marco and couldn't find one or one that would work.

#166 5 years ago

A club member checking in.

I posted the below on another EBD thread but got no response so I am reposting.

My EBD is the yellow version. The cabinet has definitely seen better days but the playfield is in good condition. The playfield has a protective cover on it that is lifting between the bottom left pop bumper and the post on the right side of the multiplier targets. This doesn't affect gameplay but upon inspection it doesn't look too good. I don't know if the playfield cover is one of the overlays or just a clear protector. A few unique things about this game are the posts are red (not blue), the volume is on the right side of the cabinet not on the coin door and there is a tiny button that is used to cycle through the settings which is different from what I have seen in the manual. BTW the pop bumpers are the standard orange ones.

Any information or ways to learn more about this machine are greatly appreciated.
Also the top left plastic is broken at the beer mugs so I am looking for a replacement.

#167 5 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

Anyone know where I can get part #ASE-2250-27 (Ball Gate). It is the gate on the left rollover lane at the top. I do not have the wire door for the gate that makes it a one way lane.
I checked with PBR and they don't have it. Also looked on Marco and couldn't find one or one that would work.

You are going to have to get some Piano Wire and a jig then bend your own.

http://www.marcospecialties.com/control/keywordsearch;jsessionid=8A5F2202DDB4665C220BCB95401B6857.jvm1?SEARCH_STRING=wire+bending

#168 5 years ago

If it's your first time bending, leave the 2 ends long and trim them up after all the other bends.

It can be hard for a beginner to estimate the material lost to the radius, so start in the middle

1 month later
#170 4 years ago

Check out the improvements I made to my EBDLE backglass lighting. Had a friend make me a custom set of two led strips.

image.jpg

Then I thought, warm white would look better and three strips. Just received the new custom made strips yesterday.

image-126.jpgimage-325.jpg

Whoa baby. I think we have a winner!!

#171 4 years ago

Looks good man. I personally like the looks of the cool white, it pops the colors out a bit better imo but the again it changes the table color from green to blue. I could do much more if i had this game.

#172 4 years ago

Yeah I guess you're right about the color pop. I guess I just wanted a more original look just brighter. Either way, much better option than the stock bulb haha

#173 4 years ago

Warm white fits the western theme better with all of the earthtones in the artwork.

#174 4 years ago
Quoted from BorisSWort:

I am in the process of restoring two 1981 machines, but I have no idea what I am doing. I bought a second one so I can see where I miswired my first one when I tried a playfield swap. The second one has been spray painted black. What brand and color of paint would work to get it back to the yellow color? Also, the rollover switch (upper left hand corner) fell apart during the swap. I can't find a replacement switch. Any ideas what I can do?

The 1981 machine used a light custard yellow for the cabinet. If you want an exact match you can take one of your back boxes that is still painted the factory color to a paint store and have them color match it. Home Depot or Lowes can do it.

As for the switch, it's just a leaf switch. What I usually do is to replace the blades with the contacts and use the rest of the parts from the original. But you can purchase the entire assembly too if you need to. Marco Specialties carries the individual contact blades (25 cents each) or a complete roll-over switch assembly for $6.00. Go to the Marco website and type "leaf switch" in the search box.

Pinball resource has them too as do other places.

#175 4 years ago

Still having the same issue on my friends EBD so thought I would ask again. When the ball rolls down the inlane it has a little hop when it hits the flipper as illustrated in the picture.

The ball rides on the lower plastic guard which I can't find a replacement for.

I loosened all the screws and tried to change its position to be lower but no dice, move it too low and the rubber rubs against the metal guard and won't flip.

I looked on IPDB and it has the same rubbers on the flippers over there so I assume they are correct.

Any thoughts?

image.jpg
#178 4 years ago

Is the tip of the plastic broken right at the flipper? That area gets hammered a lot. It's needed to maintain the transition from the plastic guide to the flipper rubber.

From your description above, you want to RAISE the position of the plastic. Otherwise, the ball hits the rubber on the end of the flipper, causing it to hop.

#179 4 years ago

Yeah, I meant raise, even pulled the glass and tried again with the same results. The tips aren't broken but the plastics are certainly worn. I think it's worth the cost to give new ones a try.

#180 4 years ago

Add me to the group.

I picked up an eight ball deluxe LE about a month ago.

I wish I could do a shop job on it, but the playfield is absolutely shot.

I'd love to find find a nicer machine and/or reproduction playfield some day. I really regret selling the nice 8BD I had. Lesson learned.

#181 4 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

Still having the same issue on my friends EBD so thought I would ask again. When the ball rolls down the inlane it has a little hop when it hits the flipper as illustrated in the picture.
The ball rides on the lower plastic guard which I can't find a replacement for.
I loosened all the screws and tried to change its position to be lower but no dice, move it too low and the rubber rubs against the metal guard and won't flip.
I looked on IPDB and it has the same rubbers on the flippers over there so I assume they are correct.
Any thoughts?

Take those old Bally flippers outand put in the narrower flippers found in Williams and Stern games of today. Also, convert it to the older style flipper mechs and get rid of the in line Bally set up that Vid talks about in his flipper rebuilding thread.

image.jpg 51 KB

#182 4 years ago
Quoted from Gnatty:

Take those old Bally flippers outand put in the narrower flippers found in Williams and Stern games of today. Also, convert it to the older style flipper mechs and get rid of the in line Bally set up that Vid talks about in his flipper rebuilding thread.

That's a good idea as well. Thanks.

#183 4 years ago

Restoring EBD playfields. So far I have to epoxy all the lenses again before starting sealing coats with waterbourne varethane gloss. This one just had all the 1" & 3/4" white lenses replaced with new ones for balls & 7 drop target bank. Also got a new red rollover insert. I should have the first restore back from the printer soon. I never want to see a drill template playfield ever again, still filling holes many times.

001.JPG 002.JPG 003.JPG 004.JPG
1 week later
#184 4 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

Still having the same issue on my friends EBD so thought I would ask again. When the ball rolls down the inlane it has a little hop when it hits the flipper as illustrated in the picture.
The ball rides on the lower plastic guard which I can't find a replacement for.
I loosened all the screws and tried to change its position to be lower but no dice, move it too low and the rubber rubs against the metal guard and won't flip.
I looked on IPDB and it has the same rubbers on the flippers over there so I assume they are correct.
Any thoughts?

image.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

Odds are the game came that way off the factory. At a certain point, you can examine and re-examine everything and decide, there's no more "minor adjustments" you can make with the flipper assembly and the location of the ball guide.

I finally took matters into my own hands on my 2004 Halifax PF, and re-drilled the hole for the ball guide. I wish I had done it 6 months ago.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-fathom-shop-job#post-2174093

1. By drilling RIGHT NEXT to the old hole, you will never see the old hole.
2. You WILL see rings smashed into the clear from the BELL.
3. The game will play better, and it's all worth it

#185 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Odds are the game came that way off the factory. At a certain point, you can examine and re-examine everything and decide, there's no more "minor adjustments" you can make with the flipper assembly and the location of the ball guide.
I finally took matters into my own hands on my 2004 Halifax PF, and re-drilled the hole for the ball guide. I wish I had done it 6 months ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-fathom-shop-job#post-2174093
1. By drilling RIGHT NEXT to the old hole, you will never see the old hole.
2. You WILL see rings smashed into the clear from the BELL.
3. The game will play better, and it's all worth it

I have also found it helps to make sure the flippers are not resting too low. set their rest position a bit higher to help the smooth transition from inlane to flipper.

#186 4 years ago
Quoted from chuckwurt:

I have also found it helps to make sure the flippers are not resting too low. set their rest position a bit higher to help the smooth transition from inlane to flipper.

Interesting point. I tend to like my flippers a few degrees south of parallel with the guides, as my preference is to limit over-cradling with the flippers. I like when the ball sometimes rolls over and out when the ball travels quickly.
-mof

#187 4 years ago

Cliffy has a bunch of flipper frames that he is making now.

He added some meat to many of them, to make the frame/flipper transition smooth.

FlipperFramesAll.jpg
#188 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Interesting point. I tend to like my flippers a few degrees south of parallel with the guides, as my preference is to limit over-cradling with the flippers. I like when the ball sometimes rolls over and out when the ball travels quickly.
-mof

That is the only drawback. To get a nice smooth transition on mine I had to make one flipper have a pretty high end of stroke resting spot.

#189 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Odds are the game came that way off the factory. At a certain point, you can examine and re-examine everything and decide, there's no more "minor adjustments" you can make with the flipper assembly and the location of the ball guide.
I finally took matters into my own hands on my 2004 Halifax PF, and re-drilled the hole for the ball guide. I wish I had done it 6 months ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-fathom-shop-job#post-2174093
1. By drilling RIGHT NEXT to the old hole, you will never see the old hole.
2. You WILL see rings smashed into the clear from the BELL.
3. The game will play better, and it's all worth it

That's why the dimples in NOS playfields and even the CPR ones are not to be taken as gospel. They are "ballparky" at best. That's why when I hear someone say the CPR playfields are better than the IPB repops because they have the pre-spotted holes I have to disagree with their logic because to make the game perfect you usually need to tweak them some so the dimples aren't really that much of a deciding factor for me.

The main things I look for are the registration of the artwork, the flatness of the wood, and other cosmetic flaws.

#190 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Odds are the game came that way off the factory. At a certain point, you can examine and re-examine everything and decide, there's no more "minor adjustments" you can make with the flipper assembly and the location of the ball guide.
I finally took matters into my own hands on my 2004 Halifax PF, and re-drilled the hole for the ball guide. I wish I had done it 6 months ago.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/bally-fathom-shop-job#post-2174093
1. By drilling RIGHT NEXT to the old hole, you will never see the old hole.
2. You WILL see rings smashed into the clear from the BELL.
3. The game will play better, and it's all worth it

Solid advice, but remember that this game actually isnt mine, Its our friends, and I dont think he wants me drilling holes in his playfield. I emailed him and asked him what he thought the other day, get the clear plastic ones (the original are plastic) someone linked to above from BAA, or get redo the flippers with the smaller slight thinner Williams ones....

Quoted from vid1900:

Cliffy has a bunch of flipper frames that he is making now.
He added some meat to many of them, to make the frame/flipper transition smooth.

FlipperFramesAll.jpg (Click image to enlarge)

He actually went with the Cliffys like Vid suggested, already ordered them and sent them to my house. I knew about those but I guess I thought that they werent the way to go because the originals are plastic, but whats more important, looking original or playing well? I am sure the light from beneath wont be to diminsihed.

I will report back when I install them. I hope to shoot a quick video of a before and after to help others in the future.

#191 4 years ago

If you don't want to drill holes just go buy some Lexan and make your own custom lane guides. I've made quite a few of them over the years. It isn't very hard. You can add a little extra material when you mark them to be cut on a jigsaw to compensate for the mismatch. It will still look factory then.

#192 4 years ago

So I have a resolution with my "flipper hop" problem I was having when the ball rolled down the inlane and hit the top of the flipper creating a small hop. The metal cliffys worked like a charm. I ended up just sandwiching them between the old plastic guide on the bottom (directly on top) then put the metal guide with the bells on top of them. This way I was able to scoot them up a hair to make that transition nice and smooth. Highly recommend this if anyone else runs into this problem. Cheap and minutes to install. Made a big difference.

#193 4 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

So I have a resolution with my "flipper hop" problem I was having when the ball rolled down the inlane and hit the top of the flipper creating a small hop. The metal cliffys worked like a charm.

I ended up just sandwiching them between the old plastic guide on the bottom (directly on top) then put the metal guide with the bells on top of them. This way I was able to scoot them up a hair to make that transition nice and smooth. Highly recommend this if anyone else runs into this problem. Cheap and minutes to install. Made a big difference.

Hmmm... let's see pics. Sounds bizarre.
-mof

#194 4 years ago
Quoted from mof:

Hmmm... let's see pics. Sounds bizarre.
-mof

It's not really. Only had time for some quick snaps to show exactly what I'm talking about. I couldn't remove the bells from the lower plastic flipper frame so rather I sandwiched it directly on top. I am unsure if this was cliffys intention. But because of that I am able to scoot the metal frame up ever so slightly giving a nice smooth transition. As far as looks from a players perspective it's almost unnoticeable, probably would go unseen if you didn't know it was there. Just the smallest of plastic beneath showing. There is no noticeable loss of light having a metal flipper frame where it used to be just plastic either. Very pleased with the results.

image-835.jpg image-369.jpg
#195 4 years ago

neato. I might try these. Do you have a link to where you bought them at? not sure what size I need.

#196 4 years ago

Cliffys passion for pinball. My friend sent them to me as its his game. I can ask him for the part numbers, or I'm sure if you email cliffy and tell him what game they are for he will know.

http://www.passionforpinball.com/FlipFrames.htm

I also see on the page a guide on how you can file and remove the bells from the old ones. I may need to try this as I couldn't figure out how to get the old ones of the plastic ones, but really stacking them does not bother me, going to ask my friend what he prefers.

#198 4 years ago
Quoted from practicalsteve:

I also see on the page a guide on how you can file and remove the bells from the old ones. I may need to try this as I couldn't figure out how to get the old ones of the plastic ones

Steve you can easily remove bell spacers from plastics by heating them with a soldering pencil and just pushing them through.

I must say I didnt realize EBD used a double stack of frames! You did a nice job installing them and if i may I'd love to get some pics for my page. As you see I have none up on site now for EBD or Flash Gordon which uses the same frames.

#199 4 years ago
Quoted from Cliffy:

Steve you can easily remove bell spacers from plastics by heating them with a soldering pencil and just pushing them through.
I must say I didnt realize EBD used a double stack of frames! You did a nice job installing them and if i may I'd love to get some pics for my page. As you see I have none up on site now for EBD or Flash Gordon which uses the same frames.

Thanks cliffy! I am going to defer to my friend and ask if he wants me to go ahead and remove the bells from the plastic frames or leave stacked. Knowing him he's probably going to say that he doesn't really care. Either way I will take some pics for you, better ones with the glass off and with better lighting. If I end up removing the bell spacers I will take pics of how it looks both ways in case you want to illustrate the versatility of them.

#200 4 years ago

Making your own Lexan replacements maintains the correct lighting. Using two metal ones hides the lamp underneath. Not that big of a deal but making a Lexan one is cheaper and looks more original than adding another stainless blade. Plus with Lexan you can customize it exactly for your particular game to eliminate the mismatch. The Lexan holds-up to the heat better than the originals did too which warped over time.

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