(Topic ID: 66114)

Eight Ball Deluxe Owner Club & Restorations Guests Welcome As Well


By Hellfire

5 years ago



Topic Stats

  • 2,269 posts
  • 259 Pinsiders participating
  • Latest reply 5 days ago by Lovef2k
  • Topic is favorited by 112 Pinsiders

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Topic index (key posts)

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There are 2269 posts in this topic. You are on page 46 of 46.
#2251 30 days ago

Hey guys, thanks again for all the help over the last week or so. I have a new power module in and the alltek wasn’t fried so we are all good there! Everything is rocking and rolling except the deluxe lights, in-line drop targets, and left outlane won’t light. (Side note I tried to do a self test by pushing the red button but nothing happens) the features still work - just the lights don’t.

#2252 24 days ago

My right flipper is gradually getting weaker over the course of the last week. It now barely pops the ball up to the multiplier most of the time. Any suggestions as to how to figure out what's wrong?

The soldering under the playfield looks good and the flipper moves smoothly by hand.

#2253 24 days ago

Question for the LE owners.

I’m having one delivered to my parents’ house from Canada, and it’s gonna have to sit for a few days while I arrange to get it.

The head is staying on, and will be transported via trailer with legs off.

Is it safe to store it on its back to take up less room? Or is that a terrible idea and just keep it flat? Not familiar with this style of cabinet.

Thanks!

#2254 24 days ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

My right flipper is gradually getting weaker over the course of the last week. It now barely pops the ball up to the multiplier most of the time. Any suggestions as to how to figure out what's wrong?
The soldering under the playfield looks good and the flipper moves smoothly by hand.

Check your EOS and flipper button switch, read this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

#2255 24 days ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

My right flipper is gradually getting weaker over the course of the last week. It now barely pops the ball up to the multiplier most of the time. Any suggestions as to how to figure out what's wrong?
The soldering under the playfield looks good and the flipper moves smoothly by hand.

The plot thickens...

Now the right flipper is delaying by about a 1/2 second from the time of pressing the button to when it actually flips. It does make the game more challenging!

#2256 24 days ago

Sounds like your flipper and EOS switches are pitted or dirty, they need really strong contact to work properly. You can try filling them down or better yet replace them.

#2257 24 days ago

I thought using a file was frowned upon due to wearing off coatings. I guess if it's not working otherwise I might as well though.

#2258 24 days ago

Use a file on old switches, new ones use a credit card. Yes , if they are not working you got. NOthing to loose.
If the switches are really old replace them

#2259 24 days ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

I thought using a file was frowned upon due to wearing off coatings. I guess if it's not working otherwise I might as well though.

I would not file anything unless as a test before replacing the switch. A dirty EOS switch never cleanly shorts out the lower power coil. So during your power stroke, the low power coil is partially limiting the current to the high power coil, really slowing down the flipper speed and torque.

#2260 24 days ago

You can file EOS flipper switches on older games. They are conducting power, and will pit. They are not gold-plated; they are tungsten. You might also need to file the cabinet switches.

If the flipper is not moving, something is binding. Something is dirty or worn, and the flipper is having to fight to move. After a while, it wins.

I would take the coil stop off and make sure that the coil sleeve is new, or at least clean. Make sure the plunger is not mushroomed, and that if this is a linear flipper, that the nyliner looks good, etc.

#2261 23 days ago
Quoted from cngizbleevng:

I thought using a file was frowned upon due to wearing off coatings. I guess if it's not working otherwise I might as well though.

You are partly correct by not filing pinball switches. This applies to the PF low voltage switches that have gold flashed contacts. This type should only be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and a qtip. Or sliding a dollar bill between the contacts.

EOS and cab flipper switches are high current switches and are not gold flashed. They can be burnished with a burnishing tool or a fine grit sand paper if there's enough of the contacts still present. I would start with a 600 grit if not real bad or 400-200 if really pitted and dirty. You want to sand or burnish them by placing the media between the contacts and putting pressure to close the contacts this way the 2 contacts will file smoothly and help them mate together when they close. The normally closed EOS switch should only have about 2-3 ohms across at the solder points. Even new ones sometimes have high resistance due to a coating that is applied during mfg to protect the contacts. So new ones should be cleaned as well.

#2262 23 days ago

Hi , I have an EBDLE with a few problems and was hoping for some help. I will start with the first problem, during the lamp test and game play ,my D-E-L-U-X-E lamps are not working also the left lane and 8 Ball lane lights. On the back panel (lower) , the Match, High Score To Date & Ball In Play lamps do not light. At this point , I’ve replaced all bulbs with LEDs and new original style bulbs. I’ve reseated all board connections. Is there a setting or dip switch I’m missing? Thx, Rob
Update: I found a burnt out fuse , replaced it and most of the lights came on. Still no back glass lights. Thx

1 week later
#2263 11 days ago

Does anybody have a clear plastic ball guide the goes to the left of the inline drops they'd consider selling?

#2264 9 days ago

Also: what are the specs on the fluorescent bulb I need for the le backglass? My Google fu failed me.

#2265 8 days ago
Quoted from Chalkey:

Does anybody have a clear plastic ball guide the goes to the left of the inline drops they'd consider selling?

I have a 95% version...

20190707_214349.jpg
#2266 8 days ago

PM me with your unreasonable demands! Mine is broken past the last screw hole but the game is in bad enough shape I can't justify getting a whole new set. I'm hoping they'll do a hard top for it next year.

#2267 5 days ago

I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.

Please PM me if interested.

8BallDeluxe1 (resized).jpg8BallDeluxe2 (resized).jpg
#2268 5 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.[quoted image][quoted image]

I might be interested. Curious what postage would be to Mpls?

#2269 5 days ago
Quoted from Mr_Tantrum:

I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.
Please PM me if interested.[quoted image][quoted image]

I'm in for 3 sets

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There are 2269 posts in this topic. You are on page 46 of 46.

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