Hey guys, thanks again for all the help over the last week or so. I have a new power module in and the alltek wasn’t fried so we are all good there! Everything is rocking and rolling except the deluxe lights, in-line drop targets, and left outlane won’t light. (Side note I tried to do a self test by pushing the red button but nothing happens) the features still work - just the lights don’t.

My right flipper is gradually getting weaker over the course of the last week. It now barely pops the ball up to the multiplier most of the time. Any suggestions as to how to figure out what's wrong?

The soldering under the playfield looks good and the flipper moves smoothly by hand.

Question for the LE owners.

I’m having one delivered to my parents’ house from Canada, and it’s gonna have to sit for a few days while I arrange to get it.

The head is staying on, and will be transported via trailer with legs off.

Is it safe to store it on its back to take up less room? Or is that a terrible idea and just keep it flat? Not familiar with this style of cabinet.

Thanks!

Check your EOS and flipper button switch, read this.

https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/vids-guide-to-upgradingrebuilding-flippers

The plot thickens...

Now the right flipper is delaying by about a 1/2 second from the time of pressing the button to when it actually flips. It does make the game more challenging!

Sounds like your flipper and EOS switches are pitted or dirty, they need really strong contact to work properly. You can try filling them down or better yet replace them.

I thought using a file was frowned upon due to wearing off coatings. I guess if it's not working otherwise I might as well though.

Use a file on old switches, new ones use a credit card. Yes , if they are not working you got. NOthing to loose.
If the switches are really old replace them

I would not file anything unless as a test before replacing the switch. A dirty EOS switch never cleanly shorts out the lower power coil. So during your power stroke, the low power coil is partially limiting the current to the high power coil, really slowing down the flipper speed and torque.

You can file EOS flipper switches on older games. They are conducting power, and will pit. They are not gold-plated; they are tungsten. You might also need to file the cabinet switches.

If the flipper is not moving, something is binding. Something is dirty or worn, and the flipper is having to fight to move. After a while, it wins.

I would take the coil stop off and make sure that the coil sleeve is new, or at least clean. Make sure the plunger is not mushroomed, and that if this is a linear flipper, that the nyliner looks good, etc.

You are partly correct by not filing pinball switches. This applies to the PF low voltage switches that have gold flashed contacts. This type should only be cleaned with rubbing alcohol and a qtip. Or sliding a dollar bill between the contacts.

EOS and cab flipper switches are high current switches and are not gold flashed. They can be burnished with a burnishing tool or a fine grit sand paper if there's enough of the contacts still present. I would start with a 600 grit if not real bad or 400-200 if really pitted and dirty. You want to sand or burnish them by placing the media between the contacts and putting pressure to close the contacts this way the 2 contacts will file smoothly and help them mate together when they close. The normally closed EOS switch should only have about 2-3 ohms across at the solder points. Even new ones sometimes have high resistance due to a coating that is applied during mfg to protect the contacts. So new ones should be cleaned as well.

Hi , I have an EBDLE with a few problems and was hoping for some help. I will start with the first problem, during the lamp test and game play ,my D-E-L-U-X-E lamps are not working also the left lane and 8 Ball lane lights. On the back panel (lower) , the Match, High Score To Date & Ball In Play lamps do not light. At this point , I’ve replaced all bulbs with LEDs and new original style bulbs. I’ve reseated all board connections. Is there a setting or dip switch I’m missing? Thx, Rob
Update: I found a burnt out fuse , replaced it and most of the lights came on. Still no back glass lights. Thx

Does anybody have a clear plastic ball guide the goes to the left of the inline drops they'd consider selling?

Also: what are the specs on the fluorescent bulb I need for the le backglass? My Google fu failed me.

I have a 95% version...

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PM me with your unreasonable demands! Mine is broken past the last screw hole but the game is in bad enough shape I can't justify getting a whole new set. I'm hoping they'll do a hard top for it next year.

I've created these custom apron cards, and am making them available for $10 per set, including US postage. I print these on a photo printer using OEM ink (no cheap third party) and OEM ultra gloss photo paper. I then cover in 3 mil clear gloss laminate, and razor cut to size.

Please PM me if interested.

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I might be interested. Curious what postage would be to Mpls?

I'm in for 3 sets

That’s not supposed to happen!

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What is that even stuck on?

It got wedged between the left side plastic and the glass. I think it somehow ricocheted off the pop bumpers and then the rollover guides and it jumped off the playfield. I got it out.

Hi all. I'm currently restoring a Vector basket case and in the box of parts the major backbox wiring loom I believe is from an EBD (based on the partial loom label). But the EBD schematic shows an 18 pin connector to the S&T A14 J1 and this is 16 pin. Pictures are attached - I've already started adding the extra jumper which connects to the extra Vector pf display. I don't think it's from an original Eight Ball as it has A14 J1 Aux lamp board connector which I don't believe was on that machine.

I'd appreciate if somebody could confirm, perhaps by the label as knowing my starting point will help with the adaption.

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Eight ball, not eight ball deluxe

From memory the EBD S&T J1 harness connector is 15 pin even though the S&T has an 18 pin header. BTW I'm counting 15 pins on your connector, not 16 pins.

It's not an Eight Ball loom since Eight Ball was made before IDC connectors were used, also your loom has the 24 pin block connector that goes to the lower cabinet rectifier board harness as used in Eight Ball Deluxe era Ballys.

Thank you, good spot on the 15 pin S&T J1 I hadn't noticed that. Also despite the paper label, I was thinking EBD as the loom has a connector to the Aux lamp board which I didn't think was used on EB. Also the 24 pin block connector to the insert (A1 J2 I learn) is populated and coloured per EBD.

In any case this loom is a good starting point for Vector and I will go through each connector in turn to check the wire routing. I've already converted a Xenon loom around the cabinet so this will be the best of classic Bally's.

I was hoping somebody would match the orange label with their EBD - I have a theory that the label colour matches the manual cover (works for Vector anyway!)

It has IDC connectors so it's most likely from an EBD

Received the cards in no time flat. Very happy with the quality and service from Mr_Tantrum . Pics in original EBD apron:

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Officially in! Super exited!!!

Quick question, does anybody know the setting to turn off the speech in attract mode? Not sure if it’s a menu or dip switch thing.

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Dip switch 30 is “Game Over Attract”

Awesome cheers!

If all else fails... read the manual.

My cards came today too. What a great improvement. Awesome quality stuff.

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What do people use to replace the peeling off foam strips on the ends of the original displays? There has to be something better.

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I'd take a piece to a big box store. Lots of weather stripping options.

Look on McMaster Carr. They have EVERYTHING

Does anyone know where I can get 2 sets of horseshoe drop target decals for EBD.

I got a set here recently:

http://www.actionpinball.com/parts.php?item=PDG284

It includes the other decals as well but not terrible at $15 a set.

Been working on the EBD I picked up this month for a few weeks now and down to a few issues that I am seeking guidance on. I just got a brand new replacement MPU, so I'm assuming (hoping) it is not an MPU problem with either issue:

(1) Once in a while (although happening more frequently lately), the voice will announce that the one ball has been made even though the target has not been hit and remains up. It turns the one target light off and lights up the one ball in the rack even though the target is still up. On the next ball, when the targets are reset, the game will drop the one ball as if it was made on the previous ball. This can happen at what seems like a random point in game play from as soon as the moment one the ball is kicked into the plunger lane or at various other points when the ball is in play. So, the game has some issue that makes it think that the one ball target was made when it was not. Is this likely an issue with the switch for the one ball target that needs adjusting (e.g. closing due to being too close together), a connector/wiring issue or something else? I checked using the test menu and the one ball switch does not show up as being closed, but it is possible it is open, but is it possible the contacts are close enough that it closes randomly due to ball action that shakes the playfield enough to close the open switch temporarily and signal a shot made to the MPU?

(2) When I make either the three ball or the four ball, it will turn off the correct corresponding light for that ball target (either 3 or 4 target made) and leave the other target light lit as it should, but will light up both the three and four ball in the rack. It does not count the ball that was not made in the bonus count, so the game recognizes the other ball target was not made. I assume this is most likely a wiring issue under the playfield or in the connector that is causing both to light when only one should.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

- Brian

Thanks. This looks pretty close.

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If this EBD is new to you and you don't know the history of previous repairs, I'd highly recommend to repin all connectors as a first step measure. It's tedious work for sure, but I can't tell you how many times repinning connectors has resolved strange behaviors in lights, switches, and power. Sometimes the pins at the end of the wires, inside the connectors, are corroded or even broken/bent after 40 years of action. It's the first thing I do when I get a new old SS machine.

If you want to take a more targeted approach (no pun intended), you could look up in the schematic the wires and pins for the misbehaving ones and see if you can force the misbehavior by wiggling those wires in the connector (to the corresponds boards in the backbox) and/or gently pound the playfield with your fist near the suspect targets.

New set of cards for you LE owners, everything else is same as original post: https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/eight-ball-deluxe-owner-club-guests-welcome-as-well/page/46#post-5088478

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Problem and Resolution for all:

Had a strange thing creep up on the machine today. I lost all of the first digits in all scoreboards as well as the ball counter. Did not see a resolution on this anywhere Resolution of the issue was connections based. The score boards, when you open up the back box, are daisy chained. Resolution of the issue for me was simple. I merely went over each computer chip and reseated everything. I also reseated the connections to the scoreboards. After years of sitting there, temperature variations can make things get loose. When I touched the computer chips, you could hear the reseating of each computer chip in each socket. The reestablished connections resolved the issue. Just putting this out there for others who may have a problem similar as the machines are getting up in years and it is summer time.

Regards,

Plaw

Hi All,
For some reason, the left lane rollover button (see attached picture) is not properly registering every time a ball is shot up the left side. When the ball goes up slowly, it works almost 100% of the time. But when hit hard/quickly, it seems to almost never register. I tried cleaning the contacts with a business card and that may have helped a bit, but wondering if you think the ball may be banking off the left metal face and missing to the right of the rollover button? If you look closely at the picture you can see the clear plastic lane guide which may allow too much room to the right of the button? Wondering if you EBD aficionados may have some good advice for me.
Thanks!
Steve

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Have you looked to see if the capacitor on the switch is missing/loose/disconnected ?

This is often the problem when a switch will not register on a "fast" hit.

On mine, I've moved the switch around 2 mm to make it more sensitive. But like mbeardsley said, the first thing is to check if the capacitor is present or not. On these old machines, you should replace them all.

Star rollovers need to have the switch contacts super close or they will not register if it doesn't roll over dead center.

I have my Eight Ball Deluxe thresholds set to 600,000 and 1,100,000 for the first 2 levels. The 600,000 correctly adds a 1 free credit but the 1,100,000 doesn’t do anything. Alltek MPU board. Does something need to be cleared out here? Also what’s the most common 3rd threshold level setting? Thanks

My EBD, MH, and BJ all have their original Bally MPUs but I did use a spare Alltek MPU in all three machines while fixing the original Bally boards. I always got in the habit of doing the Memory Clear Function on the the Alltek whenever I moved the MPU from machine to machine and never had any trouble with the high score thresholds issuing credits when hit.

FWIW, when I have my EBD set for 5 balls I use 1,000,000/1,750,000/2,500,000 and for 3 balls I use 700,000/1,200,000/1,700,000.

I hit the clear button to clear just the 1,100,000 setting then resetting it to the same value. It did not work. I did not do an entire memory clear. I’ll try that next.

Will I lose all my bookkeeping settings? If so I’ll make a list before I try it.